Torino In & around Torino Piazza Castello/via Garibaldi Stazione ferroviaria di Porta Nuova www.turismotorino.org Porta Nuova Railway Station Informazione e Aeroporto internazionale di Torino Itinerari Torino International Airport Accoglienza Turistica. Tel./Ph. +39.011.535181 The Tourist Information Centers. [email protected] della fede Scegli Torino, le sue Alpi e la sua fantastica provincia: troverai la vacanza che fa per te! 2009 / Itineraries of faith Piazza del Popolo 2 Viale Giolitti 7/9 Gli uffici di Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica di Turismo Torino 2010 Cell./Mob. +39.334.6034334 e Provincia ti possono fornire tutte le informazioni utili su musei e Tel./Ph. +39.0121.795589 mostre, Residenze Reali, castelli, fortezze e abbazie, manifestazioni ed [email protected] [email protected] eventi, sport invernali ed estivi, ristoranti e caffè storici. *(apertura stagionale - seasonal opening) Il personale è inoltre a tua completa disposizione per supportarti nella scelta delle strutture ricettive più adatte alle tue esigenze e offrirti un Percorsi di spiritualità in provincia di Torino. Piazza Lantelme servizio di prenotazione gratuito. Piazza De Gasperi 1 Tel./Ph. +39.0122.741728 Ma non è tutto: dopo esserti assicurato informazioni e pernottamento, Spiritual itineraries in the province of Torino. Tel./ Ph. +39.0122.99032 puoi anche organizzare il tuo soggiorno acquistando Torino+Piemonte [email protected] Card, ChocoPass, visite guidate ed escursioni, oltre a biglietti per [email protected] spettacoli e mezzi di trasporto o prenotando il transfer per te e i tuoi Sauze d’ compagni di viaggio. Viale Genevris 7 E se desideri iniziare la tua fantastica esperienza nel migliore dei modi, Piazza Vittorio Amedeo 3 Tel./Ph. +39.0122.858009 non dimenticare di curiosare tra i gadget e i souvenir. Tel./Ph. +39.0122.89202 Gli uffici di Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica sono aperti ogni [email protected] giorno dell’anno* per darti il benvenuto e tutta l’assistenza possibile: [email protected] ti aspettiamo! Clavière Via Louset Choose Torino, with its Alps and its wonderful surroundings: Via Nazionale 30 Tel./Ph. +39.0122.755444 you’ll find just the right holiday for you! Tel./Ph. +39.0122.878856 [email protected] The Tourist Information Centers of Turismo Torino e Provincia can info.@turismotorino.org provide you with a wide range of useful information on museums and exhibitions, Royal Residences, castles, forts and abbeys, festivals and events, Susa winter and summer sports, restaurants and historical cafés. Corso Inghilterra 39 Our staff is at your complete disposal to help you find theaccommodation Piazza della Fiera 1 Tel./Ph. +39.0122.622447 that suits you best and assist you with a free booking service. Tel./Ph. +39.0121.83617 [email protected] And there’s more: once you have the right information and your lodging [email protected] is booked, you can get the most out of your stay purchasing right away *(apertura stagionale - seasonal opening) Torino+Piemonte Card, ChocoPass, guided tours and excursions, as well as tickets for shows and public transports and booking the transfer for you and Via Repubblica 3 your party. Tel./Ph. +39.0121.91875 And don’t forget to begin at best your exciting experience by browsing among Corso Vercelli 1 [email protected] our gadgets and souvenirs. Tel./Ph +39.0125.618131 The Tourist Information Centers are open every day* to welcome you and give [email protected] you the assistance you may need: we’re waiting for you! Via Andrea Mensa 34 Edition closed in June 2009 Tel./Ph. +39.011.4992326 Chiuso in redazione: giugno 2009 - Via Umberto I 9 [email protected] Tel./Ph. +39.0123.28080 *(chiuso negli stessi giorni della Reggia [email protected] closed on the same days as the Palace)

opus"Itinerari Fede"-coverITA+ING.indd 1 8-06-2009 17:39:09 Torino: Chiese di S. Cristina e S. Carlo

Itinerari della fede. Itineraries of faith.

Torino: Santuario della Consolata

Sulle vie dei pellegrini. Torino e la sua provincia vantano una On the pilgrims’ way. lunga tradizione religiosa, testimoniata Torino and its province boast a long da imponenti abbazie e basiliche, religious tradition. This fact is proven numerosi santuari, un Sacro Monte by the presence of imposing abbeys e sicuramente dalla Sindone, che and basilicas, numerous sanctuaries, rappresenta nel mondo il “tesoro” one Sacred Mountain and certainly più conosciuto. Oggi, allo stimolo by the Shroud, Torino’s most famous religioso queste mete affiancano “treasure”. Today, alongside their il piacere della scoperta di un religious interest, these places patrimonio di storia, arte e architettura offer the pleasure of discovering an assolutamente straordinario. Nel cuore extraordinary heritage of history, art del Piemonte, la provincia di Torino and architecture. The province of Torino, offre decine di proposte suggestive. lying in the very heart of Piemonte, Questo territorio era un passaggio offers dozens of interesting proposals. obbligato lungo la , This area was an obligatory passage l’itinerario dei pellegrinaggi, e di for all those travelling along the Via quei tempi lontani sono rimaste le Francigena, the pilgrims’ way to Roma. chiese, le cattedrali e le abbazie All that is left of those far off times medievali oggi più note, ma are the churches, the cathedrals and anche tracce meno conosciute che the most well-known medievals abbeys. rappresentano ancora vere sorprese. But there are also less known corners Dove il Medioevo lascia il posto which still provide real surprises. Where alle evoluzioni artistiche dei secoli the medieval style was superseded successivi, nuovamente l’itinerario by the artistic development of later della fede si impone come una delle centuries, the road of the faithful again chiavi di lettura dell’intera provincia. provides a key to the interpretation of Le strade che collegano i diversi the entire province. The roads which edifici religiosi tagliano il territorio link the various religious buildings mostrandone tutte le dimensioni intersect the territory, revealing paesaggistiche. Fede, arte, storia: the multifaceted landscapes and un viaggio senza confini di credo. view. Faith, art, history: a journey beyond the boundaries of creed. Chiesa di S. Lorenzo - Cupola del Guarini AppartamentiSpirituality reali

di inBorgo Torino. castello Chiesa di S. Lorenzo

A chance not to be missed: after The Shroud of Torino and the Duomo. 10 years, the Shroud of Torino - The Ostension - from April 10 to May 23, perhaps the most discussed object in 2010 - a moment of great importance for humanity’s history - will be on display, the faithful, will be held in the Duomo forming the perfect starting point of S. Giovanni Battista, the city’s most for discovering the most beautiful important Renaissance monument. churches in the city of Baroque. While the dazzling Baroque chapel by An incomparable relic or an excellent Guarini is still closed for restoration icon? Answer unsolved for centuries, after the serious fire in 1997 which contrasting ideas that pave the jeopardized the safety of the relic, the way for doubts and mysteries. Diocesan Museum is open for visiting the collection of sacred art shown in the The history of the Shroud of Torino. lower church of the Duomo. The Holy First documented in the 14th century, Shroud Museum, in the S. Sudario the Cloth on which there is impressed Church in Via San Domenico, is the the image of a “crucified Man” was perfect choice for those who want to owned by the knight Geoffroy de Charny, investigate every aspect of the Cloth. who gave it to the collegiate church at Lirey. Margaret, descendent of Geoffroy, appropriated the Holy Shroud and sold it to the Savoy family who held it at Chambéry. Here, in 1532, there was the famous fire that nearly Duomo destroyed the Shroud, damaging it in various points. Thereafter the cloth was taken to Torino, the new capital of the Duke of Savoy, putting it within easy reach of S. Carlo Borromeo when on pilgrimage; since then, it was never returned to Chambéry but stayed in the Piemonte city to the present day.

4 Castello biandrate

Sindone - Il Sacro Volto di Basilica di Superga

Other sacred places. The “Social” Saints. The only example of Gothic building Torino and Piemonte are also home to is the Church of S. Domenico, while some of the most venerated saints, loved the medieval origins of the Shrine of for their work as educators and builders of the Consolata are now masked by the works of charity. Among them S. Giovanni extension works by Guarini, Juvarra and Bosco, the founder of the Salesian Ceppi. The talented Baroque architect congregation and of the Daughters of Guarini planned the Church of S. Lorenzo, Mary, Help of Christians «inventor» of symbolised by its soaring dome which Valdocco, forerunner of modern orators. describes an eight point star within a And then S. Giuseppe Benedetto perfect octagon. The same Juvarra was Cottolengo who found the religious behind the styling of the Church of S. community still today dedicated to Filippo Neri, Torino’s largest. Then there welcoming and caring for the dispossessed. are two churches with twinned frontages Also S. Leonardo Murialdo, founder of the - S. Carlo and S. Cristina - forming Congregation of S. Giuseppe, S. Giuseppe the backdrop to Piazza S. Carlo, one Cafasso, master of the clergy and assistant of the city’s most celebrated spots. The to those condemned to death, and the Church of Corpus Domini was, instead, Blessed Pier Giorgio Frassati, who is built in memory of what was known as remembered for his Catholic political the “Eucharistic miracle of Torino”. Over activism and for his help to the needy. the River , the Church of the Gran Madre di Dio stands out, its neoclassical appearance inspired by the forms of the Pantheon. Taking the quaint rack-tramway, one of the symbolic places of religion in Torino is reached: the Basilica of Also not to be missed: Superga. This sumptuous church, from Mole Antonelliana, symbol of the city and which a unique view of Torino and the home to the National Museum of Cinema Alps can be enjoyed, is one of Juvarra’s Egyptian Museum, Europe’s most important greatest masterpieces. Lastly, the most Piazza Castello, a thousand years of recent of Torino’s religious buildings is history centred on one place the Church of the S. Volto, designed Piazza San Carlo, Torino’s centre of life by the architect Mario Botta: the Quadrilatero romano unusual structure of seven towers rises and Murazzi, Torino’s dolce vita on a reclaimed former industrial site. Royal Residences, the Crown of Delights 5 : Duomo AppartamentiThe crown reali

around di Borgo Torino. castello S. Benigno : Abbazia di Fruttuaria

The Duomo of and the Abbey The “capital” of the Torino hills. of Casanova are the undisputed pearls Going beyond the Torino hills you reach of this itinerary which starts from the lively, dynamic Chieri, surrounded , just outside the Piemonte by the green areas separating it capital. Churches of regional importance from the capital. Art lovers know of and small hidden treasures abound it for the Duomo of S. Maria della between the banks of the River Po Scala, an edifice which, alone, is and the gentle hills of Torino. worth the trip. The more recognisable element of the terracotta facade is the and Chivassese. marble wimperg, a gable front with The starting point of the itinerary, pinnacles typical of Gothic churches. Chivasso was in the past the capital of the Marquisate of Monferrato. Its strategic and political importance can be seen in the monumental appearance of Duomo. The Gothic references are mainly evident in the facade in terracotta with a soaring portal, busy with carved figures. Turning north-west, S. Benigno Canavese is reached, home to the Abbey of Fruttuaria, in the past one Carignano: Il Vallinotto of the most powerful abbeys in the region and where Arduino, the first King of died, whose mortal remains are now held in the Masino Castle. Founded in 1003, like many other sacred places by Guglielmo da , it was restored to its original splendour in 2004, resulting in the discovery of a magnificent mosaic depicting two griffins, now visible along the tour route. Yet another brief digression leads to Cavagnolo to visit the Church of S. Fede, a testimony to what is known as “Asti Romanesque”. 8 Castello biandrate

Carmagnola: Abbazia di Casanova di Foglizzo Chivasso: Duomo

In the land of the Counts. and crowned by small arches, and From Chieri via to , the frescoes of Ottonian derivation the Synagogue, from the 18th century, which decorate the apse. is what remains of an ancient Jewish ghetto. In the Casanova area it is and Testona. also possible to visit the Abbey of A few kilometres separate Piobesi S. Maria Assunta, one of the main Torinese from Moncalieri; famous Cistercian places in Piemonte and for its Castle, a UNESCO world a very important centre of farming heritage site together with the other land organisation by means of the Royal Residences, this town also system of “grange” (farms focused on offers the visitor a very ancient and cultivation and reclaiming). Of Gothic surprising church, the Collegiate origin, the church now has the Baroque Church of S. Maria della Scala. look given to it in the 17th century. Built in the 11th century in the Romanesque style, it was then Carignano and . modified in a Gothic key as seen by From Carmagnola, going over the River the beautiful terracotta facade. Po heading north-west, Carignano is In the Testona district there is a reached, a hamlet of ancient origins place of mystical appeal, which refers and buildings of significant history, to the period in which the pilgrims particularly the majestic Church of from the Val Susa passed through S. Giovanni Battista: built in the 16th here on their way to Roma. century to a design by Alfieri, it has an This is the Crypt of the Church of exceptional Baroque facade of sinuous S. Maria, dating back to lines and an ingenious double ellipse the 11th century. layout. Isolated in the countryside, is the Shrine of Vallinotto whose bold dome recalls the lines Also not to be missed: of San Lorenzo in Torino. Albugnano, S. Maria di Vezzolano Abbey Piobesi Torinese is home to one Carmagnola, Fair of Pepper of the most beautiful Romanesque Castelnuovo Don Bosco monuments of the province: the Moncalieri Castle Church of S. Giovanni ai Campi. Pino T.se, Astronomical Observatory Of particular interest are the three Castle, Messer Tulipano (flower display) apses, interspersed by pilasters Royal Route of Torino Wines 9 Santuario di Prascondù

TheAppartamenti Canavese. reali di Borgo castello Ivrea: Chiesa e Convento di S. Bernardino

The same route taken by the Archbishop then a prosperous “”, the town Sigerico returning to Canterbury after retains traces of medieval glory in the his pilgrimage to Roma in the year isolated Bell Tower of the Abbey of 990 goes through Ivrea. Lesser paths S. Stefano as well as in many details branch off this main route, often of the Duomo: the two towers, the leading into verdant depths and crypt, the dome cladding and some of interspersed by sacred places where the arches in the cloister reveal a very people’s devotions blend with artistic prosperous city in the Middle Ages. expressions of great importance. The Seminario Maggiore is noteworthy for its Baroque appearance, designed by Around Ivrea. Juvarra. Away from the old centre there From Torino, secondary roads crowned is the Church of S. Bernardino, inside by medieval hamlets lead to Ivrea, the capital of Canavese. Founded by the Romans, a powerful county and

Settimo Vittone: Battistero di S. Giovanni e Pieve di S. Lorenzo

12 Castello biandrate

Santuario di S. Besso di Foglizzo

Sacro Monte di Belmonte

of which is a magnificent roodscreen, Canavese, is that of S. Elisabetta. frescoed in the 1400s by Giovanni The Valle Soana holds the Shrine Martino Spanzotti. A brief detour of S. Besso, immersed in the Gran northwards leads to Paradiso National Park, and which where the Pieve di S. Lorenzo and its can only be reached by a 2-hour attached Baptistery of S. Giovanni walk from Campiglia Soana. are monuments “signalled by FAI Returning to the valley in the (Italian Trust for the Environment)”. municipality of , the Sacro This is a rare example of Piemonte Monte di Belmonte is one of the main pre-Romanesque art, dating back to religious centres of the province and, the Carolingian period: the numerous since 2003, it has been included in the frescoes contained inside range list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. from the 13th to the 15th century. The Belmonte hill is crossed by this sacred route, where each stage is marked Towards the Valle Orco. by a chapel: a spiritual path made even Moving west, along the roads leading to more beautiful by the natural wooded the Gran Paradiso National Park, there environment through which it wends. is an area full of architectural buildings. The route ends at the Shrine of In the municipality of Pont Canavese, Belmonte, which is largely 19th century isolated on a rocky spur, there is the in style, and from which an incomparable Church of S. Maria in Doblazio which, view over the Canavese can be gained. according to tradition, was founded by Arduino himself; the first church built in Italy in honour of the Mother of God features a curious parallelogram shape with two adjoining high altars. Taking a picturesque route through the Also not to be missed: woods reach the Shrine of Prascondù , Astronomical Observatory in built in 1620 after a Anfiteatro Morenico of Ivrea miracle. North of there Castles of Agliè, Ivrea, Masino, Mazzé, , is the Valle Sacra (Sacred Valley), Rivarolo C.se, S. Giorgio C.se, Valperga so called due to the presence of Gran Paradiso National Park numerous chapels and sanctuaries: and Nivolet Plateau the most famous, particularly for Ivrea, Historic Carnival and Battle of Oranges the magnificent panorama over Royal Route of Torino Wines 13 AppartamentiThe Valli reali di Lanzo.Borgo castello

S. Maurizio Canavese: Chiesa Plebana

From Ciriè to the mountain sanctuaries, Ciriè. a powerful religiousness characterises In a favourable position between the Lanzo Valleys, not just as a Lanzo T.se and Canavese, Ciriè has refuge of nature away from the a prosperous past as testified by the hectic city, but above all a microcosm aristocratic palaces in the centre and where each community has always the wealth of its churches, first among been strongly attached to its patron all the Duomo. Gothic in style, it has a saint and its own anniversaries. soaring wimperg (gable) on the facade and two and three-opening windows The Plebana Church of in the bell-tower. The faith buildings S. Maurizio Canavese. include S. Martino in Liramo, a Just a few kilometres from Torino, Romanesque church noted for its apse in the ancient village of S. Maurizio and the massive bell tower, and S. Maria Canavese, a small white church di Spinerano featuring 15th century has stood since the Middle Ages. frescoes in the near S. Carlo C.se. In contrast to the restrained exterior, there is a fresco within of exceptional visual impact, dating th back to the end of the 15 century. S. Maurizio Canavese: affreschi della Chiesa Plebana

16 Castello biandrate

Santuario della Madonna degli di Olmetti Foglizzo Santuario della Madonna del Ciavanis

Between Lanzo Torinese and Ceres. “ciavanes” (cabins) and can only be The ‘antechamber’ to the three side reached on foot in about 1½ hours: valleys, this area offers considerable an effort well paid by the panoramas points of interest and a picturesque enjoyed from this location’s 1800 metres’ railway line. Around Lanzo T.se there are height. From Forno Alpi Graie, the two important places of pilgrimage: the last village in the valley, there can be Shrine of Loreto dated 1618, while the reached the Shrine of Nostra Signora Shrine of S. Ignazio is the largest and di Loreto which has a stairway of best known of the Valli di Lanzo, both some 366 steps, climbed on knee by for its spectacular location and for its the faithful as a sign of penitence. intensely religious life. Worth a visit are The Val d’Ala is the steepest the Shrine of Marsaglia in Monastero with precipitous walls and narrow di Lanzo, set at an elevation of 1350 gorges which only open up in the metres within a glorious environment, pastures of the Pian della Mussa. and the Madonna dei Martiri in Among the churches, the 20th century , perfectly fitting into its Shrine of Lourdes in Martassina. natural setting due to its elegant 18th The southernmost valley is the Val di century lines and the harmonious shapes. Viù, marked by steep ravines interspersed One of the most interesting churches of with verdant hollows. Between Ceres is the most isolated, the Shrine and there is the 18th century of S. Cristina: a small and delightful Shrine of the Madonna degli Olmetti, little church clinging to the top of a encircled by an elegant portico. rock providing an exceptional overlook.

The three valleys. These are the heart of Lanzo’s landscape, an entrancing mix of snowy peaks topping 3000 metres height and specific features distinguishing Also not to be missed: each of them. The Val Grande is , Sundials Tour the most northerly and largest. , Alpine Guides Ecomuseum There are two main shrines in the area, and Pian della Mussa both in an upper mountain setting. Lanzo T.se, Devil’s Bridge The Shrine of the Madonna del and “Trekking in città” Ciavanis takes its name from the word Usseglio, Anthropological Museum 17 Certosa di Banda

TheAppartamenti Val Susa. reali di Borgo castello Susa: Cattedrale e Porta Savoia

A crossroads at which all the main In the vestry can be found the 15th communication routes have converged century frescoes by Jaquerio, the leading for centuries, the Val Susa has attracted light of Piemonte late-Gothic painting. armies, merchants and, above all, To the west, a short distance from the pilgrims to whom were dedicated the lakes of the same name, is the medieval exceptional sacred places scattered hamlet of Avigliana where the churches around one of the Alpine valleys with of S. Giovanni and S. Pietro stand the greatest wealth of art and culture. out: while the first church shows signs of its Romanesque past in the two A stone’s throw from the city. and three-opening windows of the bell So close to the city yet so remote and tower, the second is a good example peaceful: the churches of the Bassa Val of the transition from Romanesque to Susa, treasures of national importance, Gothic. Close to the lakes there is the are easily reached from Torino. Shrine of the Madonna dei Laghi, one The first is the Abbey of S. Antonio di of the most venerated in the area. Ranverso, symbolic place of medieval Piemonte: built in Romanesque form, it was then altered to Gothic style, particularly the facade with steep wimpergs (gables) topped by pinnacles. Sacra di S. Michele: Sepolcro dei Monaci

20 Castello biandrate

Susa: campanile della Cattedrale di di S.Foglizzo Giusto Abbazia di S.Antonio di Ranverso: Ospedalino dei Monaci

Piemonte sentinel. The capital of the valley. One of the most famous and picturesque Susa, in the direction of the skiing sacred places in Italy: no half-measures districts of Sestriere, Bardonecchia are needed for describing the Abbey of and Sauze d’Oulx, is a hamlet of S. Michele alla Chiusa, better known Roman origins which has much to offer as Sacra di S. Michele. Majestically visitors, starting with the Duomo: clinging to Mount Pirchiriano which the first impact with the monument dominates over the Val Susa, the Sacra is impressive, whose facade is next to is a group of buildings of ancient appeal, the ancient Porta Savoia in a curious alternating between Romanesque in blend of the sacred and profane. its first structures and Gothic in the Although restyled several times, abbey’s golden period. Plunge into the particularly in the Gothic period, the past by going through the “Portale dello building maintains its original solemn Zodiaco” with its 12th century sculptures, atmosphere of the grand Romanesque in atmospheres made profound by silence churches, of which it forms one of the and soft light. The Church of S. Michele leading expressions in the province. is the heart of the complex and is The Diocesan Museum of Sacred decorated by old frescoes and sculptures. Art features work of considerable historical and artistic prestige. Sacra di S. Michele: Sepolcro dei Monaci Protected charterhouses. From Susa it is possible to go up The wild Orsiera Rocciavré Regional the Val where there Park protects two charterhouses, is the Abbey of which still unknown to mass tourism due deserves a separate description. to their isolation. In the Certosa di Monte Benedetto, abandoned in the 15th century and recently restored, the anthropomorphic capitals are remarkable, as are the remains of the cloister. Even more out of the way is the Certosa di Banda, an authentic Also not to be missed: mirror of monastic life of the past. Alpi Winter Resort Bramafam Fort Fort Gran Bosco di Salbertand Natural Park Royal Route of Torino Wines 21 Particolare del Chiostro AppartamentiThe Abbey reali

diof Novalesa.Borgo castello Scena della vita di S. Eldrado

Withstanding periods of plundering, work. Today, Novalesa, owned by the crises and decline, the Abbey of Provincia di Torino, has been returned Novalesa has been, for almost 13 to the monks who have opened it to centuries, a bulwark of Christianity the public. Once again it has the role and of the art embedded in the wild to which it is best suited: a centre of environment of the Val Cenischia, culture and art, perfectly harmonising just a few kilometres from Susa. with its environmental and social setting The main road for the Moncenisio of the Torino Alps. The workshop for Pass, built in the early 19th century by restoring antique books is also one Napoleon, runs today in a high position, of the best esteemed in the sector. distant from the course of the Cenischia river. But, at one time, this important route ran along the valley floor, going through the villages of and Novalesa. The abbey which rises in the second of these was, therefore, a fundamental point of transit and rest for the numerous pilgrims who came from on their way to Roma. Chiostro dell’Abbazia

Its history. Built in 726 by the aristocrat Abbone, it immediately became an active centre of culture: the rich library held more than 6,000 works, but was then tragically lost when plundered by the Saracens in 906. A century later, the abbot Gezone and the architect Bruningo ensured the rebirth of this place of faith, works which lasted until the 15th century. From this moment until the 20th century, the abbey has been through periods of abandonment and decline, but this has now been reversed by recent restoration

24 Castello biandrate

Particolare dell’interno di Foglizzo Cappella di S. Eldrado

The church. a three-arched facade and barrel vault. The current appearance of the building, The Chapel of S. Maria Maddalena dedicated to the SS. Pietro e Paolo, is is richer, embellished by 15th century due to an 18th century reconstruction in frescoes showing stories of the saint Baroque style, going back to the period to whom the building is dedicated. in which the abbey was inhabited by The real masterpiece of the Cistercian monks. However, there are also complex, however, is the Chapel the remains of previous periods, such of S. Eldrado (abbot of Novalesa as the frescoes of Romanesque origin between 820 and 840), whose that decorate the presbytery or those restrained external appearance of the 15th century in the vestry. belies the magnificence within.

The chapels. The heart of any visit is the four chapels dotted around in the surrounding park. The Chapel of S. Salvatore dates back to the 11th century and has a plain, unadorned look, with a few pilasters forming the only ornament. Equally simple is the Chapel of S. Pietro, with

Interno dell’Abbazia

25 Cavour TheAppartamenti Pinerolo area. reali di Borgo castello Pinerolo: Chiesa di S. Maurizio

Bordering between the Torino plain and most important centres in the province. the hills of Val Chisone, Pinerolo is the Easily reached by train or from the lively centre of a territory that circles motorway, Pinerolo has at least a the provincial capital without losing couple of important churches, religious its own specific cultural features. centres whose influence extends to the entire surrounding territory. Pinerolo. This is the case, for instance, of the Pinerolo has always been a fundamental Duomo of S. Donato, built in the far strategic point, to the extent of being back 11th century, but whose frequent involved in many wars and being transformations provide a living and occupied several times by France. visible history of the entire place. A turbulent history which began in the middle ages and was characterised by a cultural and economic liveliness that, still now, makes this one of the

Pinerolo: interno del Duomo di S. Donato

28 Castello biandrate Pinerolo: Duomo di Foglizzo

The most significant part of the active in organising the agriculture complex is probably the bell-tower of the land: the way the Pinerolo dating back to the 15th century and countryside now looks is largely due embellished by terracotta decorations. to the tireless work of the men who The facade is curious since its gave their lives to God and to work. appearance is the result of an The Abbey’s dependence on the Sacra “imaginative” 19th century restoration di San Michele reduced its political in neo-Gothic style, particularly in importance, which resulted in periods the soaring wimperg (gables). of decline and even closure. The inside, on the other hand, is a The current appearance of the church fine example of Piemonte Baroque. is due to a reconstruction in the 18th At the top of the Pinerolo hill there century aiming to restore the former is the Church of S. Maurizio, a importance to this sacred place; characterising element of the landscape however, the original Landolfo crypt is due to its panoramic position. Its retained, a precious example of Piemonte Romanesque bell-tower with three Romanesque. This small room has three orders of two and three-opening apsidal naves, with columns topped by windows can be considered one of the floral capitals: the communion altar town’s principle emblems. Baroque is very ancient, made from fragments decorations embellish the inside, where dating back to Roman times. there are also frescoes of previous periods, particularly the 15th century.

Cavour. The outstanding feature of this delightful town is the massive bulk of the Rocca, high ground rising isolated in the Torino plain. Right at the foot of the hill there is the Abbey of S. Maria, Also not to be missed: built on the spot of previous places , Zoom Torino Biopark of worship, both pagan and Christian. , Museo del Gusto Constructed in 1307 by inspiration of Pinerolo, Handcraft Fair the bishop Landolfo, it was inhabited by and Historic Museum of the Cavalry Corps Benedictine monks who were particularly Royal Route of Torino Wines

29 Stele di Sibaud

The Waldenses.

Luserna S. Giovanni: Tempio

The Valli Pellice and Germanasca Both in Val Pellice and in Val are home to the most important Germanasca, there are many other Protestant community in Italy, temples for visiting, often nestling surviving the many attempts to in delightful mountain settings: repress them. Temples, schools and the oldest are rather bare but, since museums provide an inside view of the 19th century, more elaborate a population that has strenuously styles became widespread. defended its freedom of worship. Lastly there are also many Beckwith Schools, built in the 19th century Their history. under the aegis of General Beckwith Begun in the 12th century by the work of whose efforts allowed the valley Peter Waldo, a merchant from Lyons, this peoples to enjoy a widespread denomination rapidly spread through the level of basic education. Alpine valleys, preaching of a return to poverty. Its members, followers of the Protestant Reform in 1532, were harshly persecuted; in Piemonte, the repression of 1686 forced them into exile, which ended three years later with the “Glorious Repatriation” in the Torino valleys. Since 1848, they have enjoyed civil freedom as a result of the Royal Bill signed by Charles Albert of Sardegna.

A Waldensian itinerary. Inoltre da non perdere: At Torre Pellice there is the Historic Forte di Fenestrelle Museum, fundamental for understanding Parco Naturale della Val Troncea the tormented past of the Waldenses, , Ecomuseo Scopriminiera also testified by the grandiose 19th Strada Reale dei Vini Torinesi century Temple, by the Collegio Also not to be missed: Valdese and the Casa Valdese, whose Fenestrelle Fort library houses over 50,000 volumes. Prali, Scopriminiera Ecomuseum Royal Route of Torino Wines Val Troncea Natural Park 31 In & around Torino Itinerari Appartamentidella fede reali Itineraries di Borgo of castellofaith

Spiritualità a Torino...... p. 2 La Val Susa...... p. 18 Spirituality in Torino...... p. 4 The Val Susa...... p. 20

A corona intorno a Torino...... p. 6 L’Abbazia di Novalesa...... p. 22 The crown around Torino...... p. 8 The Abbey of Novalesa...... p. 24

Il Canavese...... p. 10 Il Pinerolese...... p. 26 The Canavese...... p. 12 The Pinerolo area...... p. 28

Le Valli di Lanzo...... p. 14 I Valdesi...... p. 30 The Valli di Lanzo...... p. 16 The Waldenses...... p. 31

Progetto e realizzazione editoriale: Proget srl. Archivio fotografico Turismo Torino e Provincia, Città di Torino, Provincia di Torino, Regione Piemonte, Itinerari in Piemonte, Proget srl, Commissione Diocesana per la Sindone Torino, Comune di Settimo Vittone. Foto di: E. Pocorobba, C. Penna, P. Falanga, Studio Ponzano, M. Giorcelli, G. Fontana, R. Borgo, B. Biamino, D. Prodan, L. Mascherpa. Traduzione di: Roger Gibson.

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