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EMILIA- & SAN MARINO

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Ravenna © Lonely Planet Lonely © San Marino ( p459 ) Castell’Arquato Castell’Arquato (Parmesan). In the countryside In the countryside (Parmesan). EMILIA-ROMAGNA 22,121 SQ KM, EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Castell'Arquato SAN MARINO 61 SQ KM SAN MARINO AREA: 

( p473 )

( p464 ) Rimini ( p433 ) ( p466 )

Comacchio

Leave the flatlands behind and climb up Leave medieval village of in the picturesque cobbled streets the steep Survey the patchwork of fields and the distant blue Adriatic from your perch atop ) p473 castle walls ( San Marino’s bicycle from the town offices Grab a free and head for the beach in Stand awestruck beneath the stunning apse mosaic at Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe in Enjoy free concerts Enjoy free and open-air movies all summer long during Bologna’s annual festival Bologna Estate Contemplate the cargo from a 2000-year-old shipwreck and pose for photos on the whimsical shipwreck from a 2000-year-old the cargo Contemplate bridge in Trepponti

SAN MARINO 30,000 SAN MARINO POPULATION: EMILIA-ROMAGNA 4.3 MILLION EMILIA-ROMAGNA POPULATION:

     HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS  The regional capital, Bologna, is one of ’s unsung joys. A foodie city with a hedonistic is one of Italy’s unsung joys. capital, Bologna, regional The Much of its medieval architecture dates to the Renaissance, when a handful of power­ to the Renaissance, when a dates Much of its medieval architecture

 ham, popularly known as ham) and parmigiano reggiano Parma ham, popularly known as (cured (cured the world prosciutto crudo the city that gifted await in Parma, gourmet delights that shortthe northwest, hop to Romanesque cathedral and a hint of the boasts a superb approach to life, it’s home to Europe’s oldest university and a stunning medieval centre. A and a stunning medieval centre. oldest university it’s home to Europe’s approach to life, Modena, and the Bentivoglio in Bologna. in Bologna. Modena, and the Bentivoglio ful families set up court here: the Farnese in Parma and , the Este in and in Ferrara the Este and Piacenza, in Parma ful families set up court the Farnese here: resorts and quiet backwaters. resorts and quiet backwaters. area rich in art and culture, an area of mouthwatering food and robust wine, of cosmopolitan food and robust wine, mouthwatering of rich in art an area area and culture, and . But take time to explore this underrated region and you’ll discover an and you’ll discover region underrated this But take time to explore and Tuscany. Veneto Emilia-Romagna has long been overlooked as little more than a stepping stone between the a stepping than as little more has long been overlooked Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Marino & San Emilia-Romagna saddle up and take to the road – cycling is one of the region’s most popular pursuits. most popular pursuits. saddle up and take one of the region’s to the road – cycling is earthy pleasures, or San Marino where armies of day-trippers enjoy vast views. Alternatively, Alternatively, armies of day-trippers enjoy vast views. San Marino where earthy or pleasures, a break, head to Rimini where the crowded beaches and cutting-edge clubs promise more the crowded beaches and cutting-edge head to Rimini more clubs promise where a break, centre, Ravenna for its sensational Byzantine mosaics. If, after all that high culture, you need all that high culture, If, after Byzantine mosaics. for its sensational Ravenna centre, within easy distance of Bologna and both merit a visit – Ferrara for its beautiful Renaissance for a visit – Ferrara within easy distance of Bologna and both merit and Ravenna are the highlights of Romagna (the eastern half of Emilia-Romagna). Both are of Emilia-Romagna). Both are half of Romagna (the eastern the highlights are and Ravenna to the south, castles pepper hilltops as flat plains give way to the Apennine peaks. Ferrara Ferrara way to the Apennine peaks. give to the south, castles pepper hilltops as flat plains EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO 426 WWII, up to40%of the city’sindustrial build­ joined thenewlyformed Kingdomof Italy. the endof the 18thcentury.In1860Bologna their controluntil thearrivalof Napoleonat Bologna in1506andthecityremained under family’s palacewasrazed,papaltroops took family,duringwhich the ruling Bentivoglio adopted neutralityinthe 14th century. papacy), goingagainsttheGhibellines, but by sidingwiththeGuelphs (whobacked the involved Bologna. Thecitystarted inevitably Roman Empire forcontrolof northernItaly thepapacyandHoly endless tusslebetween them inall,of whichtoday.The 22stillstand family leftitsmarkbyerecting atower–180of well-to-do abuildingboomandevery brought university aroundthe12thcentury.Wealth pendent communeandleadingEuropean Huns, Goths andLombards. cessively sacked andoccupiedbyVisigoths, Western Empire crumbled, Bolognawassuc­ before surrendering totheRomans.As the They lasted anothercoupleof hundred years from Gaultookover, renaming itBononia. the EtruscanPovalleyterritories untiltribes Felsina. of Fortwocenturiesitwasthecapital as Bologna startedlife inthe6thcenturyBC HISTORY source of studentagitation. and theuniversity, Europe’soldest,isstilla 1977, butthecityremains political, highly in cooled sincestudentsfaceddowntanks Passionstion forleft-wingmilitancy. have buildings), Bolognahaslonghadareputa­ political moniker asreference toitscolourful rainand shelter fromtraffic, summer heat. colonnaded walkwaysthatoffer pedestrians to explore onfoot,thankstothe40kmof wide, of Emilia’ssmallertowns.It’salsoagreat place ensure that’soften avitality missinginmany a large studentpopulationandactive gayscene it’sanattractive,nary capital, animated place; to thenorth’smore culi­ famouscities.Italy’s – porticoes Bologna isawonderfulalternative brick ofcityscapes –aneye-catching ensemble red- Boasting oneof thecountry’sgreat medieval pop 372,000 BOLOGNA During heavy inthelastmonths fighting of Following apopularrebellion againstthe The cityreached itspinnacleasaninde­ Nicknamed BOLOGNA •• History History •• BOLOGNA Renaissance towerspalazzi, Renaissance andarcaded

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h enoteca bookshopwithitsowncafe, restaurant and three-level h & wi-fifree; .it/wireless; Palazzo D’Accursio,Piazza 6;internet Maggiore Register at the Iperboledeskinside Register Palazzo D’Accursio. on sixpubliccomputers,orthree hoursofwi-fiaccess. allowingonehourdaily government’s free internetservice, .cst.bo.it; Piazza 1e; Maggiore opposite AlbergoGarisenda’s elevator. hr €2.20;

Iperbole Internet Access Coop Librerie International Feltrinelli Bookshops INFORMATION Bassi anditscontinuation, Via Rizzoli. ter. Themaineast–westarteries are ViaUgo andtheuniversitypoint of quar­ ViaZamboni marksthestarting Ravegnana Piazza diPorta Maggiore, theheartof thecity.Justtoeast, leads toPiazzadelNettunoand Viadell’Indipendenza train andbusstations, ORIENTATION venue. tech industriesand isapopulartrade-fair lovingly and carefully preserved. andithasbeen town insidethewallssurvived ings were thehistoric destroyed.However, Centro Servizi per iTuristi Servizi Centro Tourist Information Post office Post Ospedale Maggiore Medical Services Train station Left Luggage iWash Laundry Liong@te Zamboni 7b; 2) West of the city centre; take bus19from 2) Westofthecitycentre; take Via Bassi. €0.60;

Bologna isbestexplored onfoot.Fromthe Today thecityisacentre hi- forItaly’s 9am-9pm Mon-Sat,10.30am-9pmSun) 9am-midnight Mon-Sat,to8pmSun)Brandnew

h ( Via Petroni €6.80; 38; wash&dryper8kg

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h (Piazza Minghetti 4) (Piazza Minghetti % h 10am-midnight) Up the staircase directly 10am-midnight) Upthestaircasedirectly (perbag1st5hr€4,eachadditionalhr 051 203184;www..bologna (

9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)Themunicipal 051 407 01 61; Via Rizzoli 9; 051 4070161;ViaRizzoli internet per % 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

051 220131;ViaOrefici 19;

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( 051 647 81 11; Largo Nigrisoli 051 6478111;LargoNigrisoli

% h ( % 051 268070;Via 10am-2pm & 3-7pm

800 856065;www lonelyplanet.com