The Ol’ Pioneer The Magazine of the Grand Canyon Historical Society

Volume 24 : Number 1 www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Winter 2013

In This Issue

Citizen Kane-yon ...... 3 President’s Letter The Ol’ Pioneer The Magazine of the Greetings All GCHS Members and GCHS Friends! Grand Canyon Historical Society As your newly elected president I am honored to help lead this fantastic or- Volume 24 : Number 1 ganization into the future. At our last board meeting, there was palpable excite- Winter 2013 ment in the air about our future as one of the primary organizations concerned with the documentation and recording of Grand Canyon’s dynamic human his- u tory. I want you to know that your officers are dedicated to making this an even The Historical Society was established better Society in the future, that will evolve and change, much as the canyon in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation landscape has done over the last 6 million years (or is that 70 million?). There to develop and promote appreciation, is a new energy among the officers that will drive our ambitions forward as we understanding and education of the prepare for the next symposium in 2017. But four promising years lie between earlier history of the inhabitants and important events of the Grand Canyon. us and that date with destiny and we will not be idle until that day. Some of the goals we have in mind are to publish the 3rd Symposium papers in either The Ol’ Pioneer is published by the “print-on-demand” form or the old fashioned book route; the possible initia- GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL tion of an Oral History Project”; some initiatives on finding a broader range of SOCIETY in conjunction with The articles for The Ol’ Pioneer (with all deference to our everlasting hero Don Lago); Bulletin, an informational newsletter. Both publications are a benefit of and attempts to revitalize the Outings Program. membership. Membership in the Society Our out-going President, Erik Berg, has already thanked our two retiring is open to any person interested in the board members and welcomed the new ones in a previous letter to you. But I historical, educational, and charitable must pen a few words on behalf of all GCHS members to Erik. THANK YOU purposes of the Society. Membership is for the outstanding leadership you gave to our Society during the past four on an annual basis using the standard calendar; and dues of $25 are payable on years. You helped to bring this organization back from the brink of irrelevance the 1st of January each year, and mailed and instilled a sense of pride and professionalism that might have seemed im- to the GCHS Treasurer, PO Box 31405 possible then. When we look back to the time of your first letter to us (in the Flagstaff, AZ 86003-1405. The Ol’ Pioneer Spring, 2009 edition of The Ol’ Pioneer), you asked each member to “consider magazine is copyrighted by the Grand [their] own rediscovery [and] continued exploration of the Grand Canyon and Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication its history.” I can do no better than that in asking our members to stay involved. may be reproduced or used in any form All of us thank you for the dedication you gave to this organization in your four without permission of the publisher. year presidency. I promise to try and emulate the high standard you set for me. I will try to attract younger members to the Society, pursue a closer relationship Editor: Mary Williams with our partners (GCNP, GCA, MNA, and NAU), and attempt to make the Submit photos and stories to the editor of The Ol’ Pioneer at: info@ history of this world-class feature something more than a dry recitation of facts marywilliamsdesign.com or 4880 N. and dates. Weatherford Road, Flagstaff, AZ 86001. Erik is not going away, he is merely transitioning to our Outings Coordina- (928) 779-3377. Please submit written tor. I am most happy for that, as I attempt to navigate the headwinds of far too articles and photos electronically on CD many e-mails in my in-box, extended time away regarding work responsibili- or via email if possible. You may mail photos or slides for scanning if needed. ties, and a busy modern life-style. So with that, I thank you all in advance for your trust in me and let’s set about to make Grand Canyon’s history come alive! Submissions to The Bulletin should be sent to Karen Greig, [email protected] Wayne Ranney GCHS President GCHS Officers Wayne Ranney, President John Azar, Vice President Amy Horn, Treasurer Tom Martin, Secretary Lee Albertson, Pioneer Award Chair NOW! Find us on Facebook. Al Richmond, Hall of Fame Award/ Scholarhip COVER: Mule ride into the Grand Canyon, April 20, 1915. William Randolf Hearst is Erik Berg, Outings Coordinator at the back of the pack, and in front (standing) is comedian Will Rogers Jr. Grand Canyon National Park photo # 10892 Board of Directors Howard Asaki Karen Greig John Azar Beth Hickey The Ol’ Pioneer submission deadlines are going to be roughly the first of Janu- Erik Berg Amy Horn Ellen Brennan Tom Martin ary, April, July, and October. Kathy Faretta Carol Naille Keith Green Wayne Ranney

2 : Grand Canyon Historical Society Citizen Kane-yon by Don Lago values of pioneer America, in which most beautiful and awe-inspiring individual effort and an endless scenery that…can be found 39 Continued from Issue 23:4 frontier promised both freedom and anywhere in the world. ranklin Roosevelt did not se- financial success, were no longer lect Harold Ickes as Secretary of functional in an industrial, corporate This almost reads like a justification the Interior because Ickes had world dominated by ruthless for taking ’s Fany background as a conservation- oligarchs. The Great Depression land. ist: Ickes had none at all. Ickes wasn’t and environmental problems were As Secretary, Ickes often found even interested in the job. Ickes had both symptoms of the same disease: ways to pursue his passion for human wanted to be the commissioner of the unregulated greed. rights issues. When Ickes built a large Bureau of Indian Affairs, where he Denuded forests, floods, new headquarters for the Interior could continue his passion for fight- droughts, a disappearing water Department and an artist proposed ing for the underdog. At the start of table, erosion, a less stable and for it a major mural depicting the four the twentieth century Ickes had been equable climate, a vanishing elements — air, water, fire, and earth inspired by the progressive move- wild life — these are some of — Ickes preferred a mural depicting ment, by its outrage at the growing the notable results of unchecked the oppression of Native Americans oligarchy and injustice in America. and ruthless exploitation by and African Americans. It was Ickes As a lawyer Ickes helped men who euphemistically who arranged for African-American Jane Addams and her Hull House, refer to themselves as “rugged singer Marian Anderson, when 37 took cases too radical for other law- individualists”.... refused the DAR auditorium, to sing yers, and served as president of the Beautiful scenery that man at the Lincoln Memorial. Since the Chicago NAACP. Ickes became a ma- with all his genius could never Interior Department had jurisdiction jor force in Chicago politics, a nasty hope to duplicate has been over Native American policy, Ickes world where his pugnacious person- destroyed or marred in order that brought about major changes to make ality fit right in. Ickes idolized Teddy some rugged individualist might those policies far more respectful Roosevelt and remained a strong be able to buy a Rolls-Royce of tribal rights and traditions. Ickes progressive even as America became for his feckless son or finance wanted landscapes in national parks much more conservative. When the another fling with his favorite to have Native American names, not 38 1920 Republican National Conven- chorus girl… Euro-American names; he once fired tion repudiated the Teddy Roosevelt National parks are a off a memo complaining that Bryce tradition by nominating Warren Har- distinctly American institution. Canyon had names like “Queens ding, and the usual motion was made No other country has set aside Garden.” to make the nomination unanimous, in perpetuity such areas of Ickes took office less than a decade an outraged Harold Ickes screamed great natural beauty…In the after the Teapot Dome scandal had “NO!” loudly enough to be heard all middle ages the ruling classes badly marred the reputation of the over the convention hall. In that fall’s appropriated to themselves Interior Department, and Ickes was campaign Ickes worked for the Dem- great groves of trees and wide determined to redeem and expand ocratic candidates, James Cox and expanses of sylvan glade. One of the agency. Ironically, he soon Franklin Roosevelt. Yet when Frank- the reasons for the strong stand renewed the campaign of Albert lin Roosevelt was elected president a of the English barons when they Fall, the villain of Teapot Dome, dozen years later, many old progres- forced King John to sign Magna to remove the Forest Service from sive leaders distrusted him, seeing Charta was because the King had the Department of Agriculture and a pragmatist with few convictions. disregarded one of their most add it to the Interior Department. Roosevelt wanted to reassure the pro- cherished prerogatives — that Once again Gifford Pinchot weighed gressives by appointing one of them of establishing great forests in in against transferring the Forest to his cabinet. order to enjoy the pleasures of Service, accusing Ickes of being Harold Ickes saw conservation the chase. In the old times kings driven by a lust for power. mainly as another form of progressive or nobles or churchmen might Ickes’s sympathies for the crusading against the rich and set apart for their own enjoyment Common Man influenced his hopes powerful. In the year after taking areas of natural beauty. It was left and policies for the national parks. office Ickes published a book, The to the United States to consecrate Ickes denounced the practice of New Democracy, to justify the agenda to the use and enjoyment of the building luxury hotels in national of the New Deal. Ickes argued that the people thousands of acres of the parks — such as Grand Canyon’s www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 3 El Tovar — because they were Ickes with being the first Secretary of playgrounds for the rich. In a the Interior to declare that wilderness speech to a 1934 gathering of the should be preserved for its own sake, superintendents of all the national not just for tourism or recreation. parks, Ickes declared: Ickes wanted to change the name of I think there was a wrong his department to the Department concept to begin with. I think of Conservation. Perhaps the three accommodations of that sort summers the young Ickes had spent ought to be simple. The parks on a dude ranch in the Rockies had can perform a wonderful service made a deep impression on him. Or in showing people that there is perhaps he was serving the vision something more to life than jazz, of his first hero, Teddy Roosevelt. and even radio…The greatest Ickes put a lot of effort into creating service that we can do the people new national parks and monuments, who come to our parks is to get including Olympic and Kings them back to the simpler things Canyon. Ickes proposed three new of life…That is what our parks national parks for New England are for. They are to be the great and a 4.4-million-acre national outdoor temple. And we ought monument for much of southern not to desecrate them or permit Utah, but local opposition blocked 40 them to be desecrated. them. Ickes pushed for extensive national seashores: “When we look Stephen T. Mather Ickes considered it a desecration up and down the ocean fronts of that greedy railroad corporations built America, we find that everywhere In his diary for November 15 1935 and ran many of the tourist facilities they are passing behind the fences of Ickes wrote: “The President told me in national parks: “I wish we had private ownership. The people can that…there was no man in the whole United States who was as vicious an the statutory power and the money no longer get to the ocean…except by 45 to take over all of those concessions permission of those who monopolize influence as Hearst.” After Ickes 41 43 and run them ourselves.” Ickes the ocean front.” made a speech blaming the rich for renounced the Mather-Albright Ickes was very aggressive in ruining American democracy, the emphasis on developing plenty of pursuing his goals, partly because Hearst newspapers ran a nationwide “editorial bitterly attacking me as roads and facilities to draw tourists he had an aggressive personality. He 46 to the parks: often irritated President Roosevelt a communist.” In January 1936 I do not want any Coney and other cabinet members. Horace Ickes spoke with Roosevelt about Island. I want as much Albright said: “There is no denying “the question of William Randolph wilderness, as much nature he could be very hard to get along Hearst, who has been attacking the preserved and maintained as with. He could be impetuous and Administration viciously now for possible…I recognize that a unreasonable. Also, he constantly months. I think that there should great many people, an increasing kept his associates off-balance. None be a counterattack…I believe that a number every year, take their of us could ever be sure that we real offensive ought to be opened up nature from the automobile… wouldn’t walk in one day and get against Hearst with a determination 44 to show him to the country for what But I think the parks ought to be fired.” Some sources say that Ickes’s 47 for people who love to camp and bullying convinced Horace Albright he really is.” In February Ickes love to hike and who like to ride to retire six months after Ickes wrote in his diary: “It sounded today horseback and wander about and took office, and pushed Albright’s as if the President is about ready have…a renewed communion successor, Arno Cammerer, into a to turn someone loose on William with Nature…We lie awake at heart attack. Ickes also fired a future Randolph Hearst. He has dug up a nights wondering whether we director of the NPS, Conrad Wirth, letter written by are giving the customers all of only to soon apologize for his unfair to Hearst in which he flays Hearst the entertainment and all of the wrath and rehire him. Yet President unmercifully, and he also has what Elihu Root said about Hearst when modern improvements that they Roosevelt enjoyed aiming Ickes’s 48 think they ought to have. But let’s combativeness against William Root attacked him.” Franklin keep away from that, because if Randolph Hearst. Roosevelt hadn’t forgotten decades- we once get started, there will be Even as Hearst’s attacks mounted old family grudges. When Hearst 42 no end. and as the 1936 election neared, pushed the presidential candidacy of Roosevelt remained reluctant to fight Alf Landon, Ickes urged Roosevelt to Environmental historians credit back, but privately he was boiling. attack Landon by tying him to Hearst.

4 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org on me yesterday in a front-page story judgment, it was important for him charging that my book, Back to Work, to land with the full force of his right was written by members of the staff on Hearst’s chin. I told him that no and, therefore, at the expense of the one else could do this for him…The taxpayers. There was a long, detailed President said that perhaps he ought 54 story full of moral indignation to ‘take a shot at the old man.’” 51 expressed against me.” Three weeks On October 1 “the old man” later Ickes made another radio speech wrote in a front-page editorial: “Mr. against Hearst and Landon, and Ickes Roosevelt declares that he is not a wrote: “Undoubtedly Hearst will Communist, but the Communists keep up his attack on me now rather say he is one. The Communists ought vigorously. As a matter of fact, there to know. Every cow knows its own 55 was an editorial in the Washington calf…” Herald this morning…an insinuation Roosevelt won in a landslide. that I have been a dismal failure as After the next Cabinet meeting, Ickes the head of this Department and wrote: “The President made it clear 52 have done everything wrong.” Five that Hearst is persona non grata so far days later: “That the Hearst press will as the Administration is concerned. overlook no opportunity to smear He said definitely that as to Hearst our me from this time on there isn’t any attitude was to be thumbs down, and 53 doubt.” he made a physical demonstration of Horace M. Albright Ickes knew he was living what he meant when he said ‘thumbs 56 dangerously, for Hearst possessed down.’” On July 7, 1936, Ickes wrote: some damning personal information Horace Albright had always The President had apparently about Ickes. Shortly after taking remained “thumbs down” on been thinking of it and discussing office Ickes began an affair with Hearst’s Grand Canyon lands. Before who might make such a speech a much younger woman, which he retired in 1933, Albright made with the greatest effect. He had drove his wife to a suicide attempt. another attempt to talk Hearst into me in mind but he doubted Someone began sending accusatory giving up his land. Albright recalled the propriety of a member of letters about the affair to newspapers, Hearst’s plans for a museum: the Cabinet making an attack including Hearst’s newspapers. Well, nothing happened. All on Hearst. I reminded him To prove that these letters were those years went by and nothing that Theodore Roosevelt had being written by his lover’s fiancé, happened…But as Director I delegated Elihu Root on one Ickes had an Interior Department decided to tackle Mr. Hearst occasion to attack Hearst and official gain entrance to the fiance’s because I understood he was that seemed to change his mind apartment and find evidence. In in financial difficulties. He had considerably. I told him that I was March 1934 Ickes heard that Hearst’s finished his castle and he was not anxious for the job because I Chicago newspaper was going to much older, of course. I thought realized that Hearst would smear print a story about his affair. Ickes quite possibly he might have anyone who went after him, but called up Hearst himself in California changed his mind about the that the job ought to be done and and protested. Ickes lied and said the museum and better not take any that I was willing to do whatever 49 story wasn’t true, and anyway Hearst chances on his selling Grandview. he wanted me to do. wasn’t supposed to be in the business So I undertook to get a date with of publishing personal gossip. This him through a lawyer...Well, one Roosevelt decided that Ickes was was true: Hearst might be ruthless of his lawyers got a date with the hatchet man for the job. Right in his political attacks, but he had him at the Ambassador Hotel. I before and right after the Republican always refrained from exposes about had no reason to be afraid of him National Convention, Ickes delivered love affairs and other personal dirt, like I was before — I hadn’t heard nationwide radio speeches linking if only because Hearst’s own private he’d changed temperamentally, Landon with Hearst and lambasting life was so vulnerable. Hearst called anyway — only that he had had Hearst. As Ickes’s biographer T. up his Chicago editor, and the affair financial troubles…I looked H. Watkins described it: “He did it 50 story was killed. But not forgotten. forward to possibly being with savage delight.” Anti-Hearst A few weeks before the 1936 successful in winning him to a newspapers gave Ickes’s speech front- election Ickes wrote in his diary: point of view that he should give page, full-text coverage. As Ickes “On Tuesday the President called me the land to the Park, even if we predicted, Hearst counterattacked in up on a departmental matter and I gave him a concession to build a personal way: “Hearst opened up took occasion to tell him that, in my the museum, which we hoped he www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 5 would. We had it all worked out on improving his cabin, and the he went up in the air. Much too much as to how we’d handle it if he’d only trouble he reported was that says he. Sorry, for if it had run a little give us the land, or sell it to us for “Last winter a horse broke through over $100,000 I think we would have 61 a reasonable sum if we could raise [the cistern cover] and it was just by started there May first with a bang.” the money. I can remember going chance that he did not go entirely Soon Hearst was forced to shut down up to the hotel with a lawyer, down and it would have spoiled the further work at his beloved San 58 but we couldn’t get in because water, beside drowning the horse.” Simeon, so Grandview was now out Miss Davies was with him and Hearst was indeed having financial of the question. until that interview broke up, I troubles, and they got a lot worse over Horace Albright’s feeling that couldn’t see him. So I must have the next five years, until Hearst and a bankrupt Hearst didn’t seem so been there about an hour before his corporations were $30 million in fearsome was shared by the larger the door opened and he and debt. By 1933 the advertising revenue culture, in which Hearst increasingly Miss Davies came out and he at Hearst’s newspapers had dropped seemed a symbol of hubris, of introduced me to Miss Davies… from $113 million to $40 million, and American overreaching for success The same thing happened, he more than half his papers were losing and power. In a March 1939 cover was gentle and kind and friendly, money. Banks refused to loan Hearst story, Time magazine ridiculed the but he still had his museum idea money. Hearst was forced to start fallen Hearst, concluding: “…his and he wanted to go ahead with selling off his art, his newspapers, appeal was not to men’s minds but it. He wasn’t willing to turn over and his real estate, even his castle to those infantile emotions which the property. He complimented in Wales, in which he’d invested he never conquered in himself: us on what we were doing on millions of dollars for improvements. arrogance, hatred, frustration, 62 the administration of the park, His Grandview property and plans fear.” Later that year Aldous said he had no apprehensions too were affected. Huxley published a satirical novel about anybody building up near Hearst may have been about Hearst, After Many a Summer him or anything. Being left as disingenuous when he told Albright Dies the Swan. Soon, Orson Welles it was — that pleased him. He that he only planned to build a began work on Citizen Kane. And the assured me that he was going museum at Grandview, for early Interior Department decided that to leave his property as it was; on he had planned a residence, and it no longer needed to fear William he wasn’t going to do anything not any cottage. When Hearst told Randolph Hearst. with it except build a museum Superintendent Eakin in 1926 that In August 1938 Hearst attorney sometime. He hoped to get it he was planning “a little place,” this Frank Lathrop went to NPS regional done and said, “I’m getting older “little” was by San Simeon standards. director Frank Kittredge and told him all the time. I might not get it By 1933 Hearst had had Julia Morgan that Hearst needed to sell properties done.” But he said, “I still have draw blueprints for his Grandview that were least essential to him, and all my plans.” So I couldn’t do residence, and in 1936, even amid that this could include Grandview. anything but thank him and go all his financial troubles, Hearst was Lathrop invited the NPS to make 57 away. pressing ahead. Toward the end of an offer. The NPS replied that it did June 1936 Hearst traveled to the not have any funds to buy Hearst’s With Albright willing to leave the Grand Canyon, and a few days later lands, and that no funds were likely matter alone, the NPS took no further Julia Morgan flew to the canyon to anytime soon. The only hope for action for the next five years. Besides, join Hearst and look over his property. such a purchase lay in a 1929 law — with the Great Depression, the NPS Two weeks later Hearst wrote to his the law that had so worried Hearst had no money to spare. During construction superintendent George — that authorized the Secretary of these years the owner of the Rowe Loorz: “The work at Grand Canyon the Interior to pay half the value of Well property, a private inholding must be done economically. I am not private lands inside national parks, just south of Grand Canyon Village, prepared to spend a lot of money if the other half could be obtained 59 offered to sell his land to the NPS. there.” Yet in September Hearst from private matching funds or as The NPS considered the Rowe Well was facing financial realities and a donation from the land owner. property and the Hogan Orphan mine cabled Morgan from Europe to “bring Without this other half, the whole inholding on the rim to have a greater Wyntoon and San Simeon work to amount would need to be approved “nuisance value” than Hearst’s land, conclusion October first and hold up by congress, which was very unlikely. for both places included bars at which Arizona until my return which will When Kittredge wrote to Grand 60 locals often got drunk and got into be soon.” Six months later Hearst Canyon Superintendent Miner fights. But the NPS had to forgo the saw Julia Morgan’s construction Tillotson about the proposal, word of Rowe Well purchase for lack of funds. plans for Grandview, and, as George it somehow leaked to Dick Gilliland, These were quiet years at Loorz’s told a contractor : “but when Hearst’s caretaker. Gilliland wrote to Grandview. Dick Gilliland worked Mr. Hearst heard they ran $180,000… Hearst complaining about this news,

6 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org and Frank Lathrop stormed into Frank amount of money for more than 200 family. Her grandfather was Joseph Kittredge’s office and “raked me over acres of land for the sake of one gas Medill, who had built the Chicago the coals,” as Kittredge described it to station, and as for hoping for John Tribune into a powerful newspaper, Tillotson. “Mr. Hearst went up in the D. Rockefeller Jr.’s personal help: and her cousin still ran the Tribune. air and said he would have nothing “It is my understanding that the Her brother published the New York to do with the sale. This in spite of the Rockefellers have been forced to Daily News, and her daughter had fact that he had authorized his agent give up some of their philanthropic married political columnist Drew 64 to go ahead with it, but he intended activities.” Pearson. Cissy Patterson wanted to it to be kept entirely confidential… After Hearst’s blowup over be a publisher and offered to buy the whole matter is supposed to be the confidentiality of his land-sale the Washington Herald from Hearst, 63 off…” But Lathrop promised to proposal, Kittredge and Tillotson but Hearst declined and instead raise the subject again with Hearst. were taking pains to keep the whole made Patterson editor and gave her In the meantime, NPS managers subject secret, even from the NPS one-third of the newspaper’s profits. started thinking about where they regional director who had jurisdiction After Harold Ickes’s wife died in a car could get the other fifty percent over Grand Canyon National Park, accident in 1935, he and Cissy began of the funds needed for making which led to some bureaucratic dating seriously. Politically they were such a purchase. Superintendent ruffled feathers. But eventually an odd couple, for Patterson was Tillotson talked with the Fred Harvey Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes following Hearst into increasingly Company, and then he suggested heard about it. anti-Roosevelt stands. Then Ickes met approaching John D. Rockefeller Jr., Secretary Ickes was in the midst a much younger woman, dumped who had been donating substantial of another round of open combat Cissy, and married his new love. In lands for other national parks. with William Randolph Hearst. her newspaper Cissy Patterson began The Rockefeller idea came up Three times in early 1939 Ickes attacking Ickes in such nasty, personal through a chance inquiry. An agent gave speeches denouncing the evil terms that Ickes contemplated suing for the Conoco Oil Company showed influences of Hearst and the rest of her for libel. up at Tillotson’s office and said the monopolistic, conservative press. In 1939 Cissy Patterson finally his company wanted to open a gas Later that year Ickes published a book, purchased the Washington Herald station at the Grand Canyon, and he America’s House of Lords, was talking with Martin Buggeln, portraying the newspaper who owned a private inholding just publishers as feudal barons east of Grandview. But Buggeln’s who were oppressing the lands were a bit off the park road, people. Ickes claimed that so Conoco would need to build an in 1910 Hearst had hired access road on park land. Tillotson thugs who engaged in said the park would oppose that idea. shoot-outs against other The Conoco agent then asked if there newspapers in the streets of were any other private inholdings Chicago, and that this was where they could build a gas station. the beginning of the reign Tillotson kept his mouth shut. But this of gangsters in Chicago and got Tillotson thinking that Standard across the nation. Hearst Oil, owned by John D. Rockefeller Jr., and other publishers struck might find Hearst’s land a nice place back with what Ickes called for a gas station, if only they’d buy “a violent storm of editorial 65 those lands from Hearst. An added abuse.” The editor who incentive would be that Standard Oil, attacked Ickes most fiercely which supplied the Fred Harvey gas was Cissy Patterson at stations at Desert View and Grand Hearst’s Washington Herald. Canyon Village, would preempt Patterson’s spite had very competition from Conoco. personal motives, for Cissy Frank Kittredge replied to Patterson had been in love SEC Ickes and bride return home. Olney, Md., June 22. Tillotson that after Hearst had left with Harold Ickes and been Like a line from the song ‘Knee Deep in Daisies and his lands undisturbed for twenty-five jilted by him. Head Over Heels in Love,’ Secretary of Interior Harold years and offered to sell them that Harold Ickes met Cissy Ickes and his bride of a few weeks pictured in the gar- way to the park, it would look bad for Patterson soon after FDR’s den of the Ickes country home ‘Headwaters’ following the NPS to build a gas station there. inauguration. Patterson their return from honeymoon in Europe. Kittredge doubted that Standard came from a powerful Library of Congress photo & caption. Oil would spend an extravagant and wealthy publishing www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 7 from the financially ailing Hearst, Hearst; as of yet, no NPS documents improvements are occupied in and she made him a one-million- even mentioned a possible price for their entirety by the caretaker, I dollar personal loan. She also wanted the land. Ickes wasn’t interested in think the property cannot be said to buy his Grandview land at the relying on the generosity of private to be “occupied by the owner and Grand Canyon. We don’t know any donors like the Rockefellers. Ickes used exclusively for residence” 67 details about this offer; we catch was also the director of the Public purposes. only a one-sentence glimpse of it in Works Administration, a jobs and a letter Hearst wrote to one of his construction program, in which Ickes In response to Secretary Ickes’s lawyers in 1941: “…Mrs. Patterson had dispatched huge sums of money. request for a report on Hearst’s use of tried to buy it from me for her private Ickes’s solution would be to declare Grandview, NPS Acting Director A. 66 use.” In mid-1939, as Hearst was it a public works project to obtain E. Demaray (who had once worked negotiating with the NPS about Hearst’s land and to obliterate every at Grand Canyon National Park) his Grandview land, he also began trace there of William Randolph indicated in a memo of April 28, approaching wealthy people about Hearst. 1939, that communications had been buying it, and this was most likely The Interior Department lawyer reopened between Hearst and the when Cissy Patterson made her offer. soon reported a big problem with the NPS and that Hearst was willing to One of Harold Ickes’s justifications condemnation option. The 1929 law sell his Grandview land for a tentative for condemning Hearst’s land was to that allowed for condemnation of price of $150,000. A decade previously, prevent him from selling it to another private lands in national parks also in his private communications private interest. If Cissy Patterson had included an exemption, which named regarding his land swap with the bought Grandview, it would have seven specific parks, including Grand NPS, Hearst had repeatedly said turned the fight over Grandview into Canyon, prohibiting condemnation that his Grandview land was worth a romantic grudge match. Patterson against private lands that included a less than $100,000. Demaray found would be attacking Ickes not just residence. This exemption had been this $150,000 price “exorbitant” and with editorials, but with a personal written into the law by Montana started a consistent NPS practice of invasion of his bureaucratic turf. Senator Thomas Walsh, who owned lowballing the value of Hearst’s land. Ickes was not above using his some land in Glacier National Park. Demaray cited the Coconino County office in a personal grudge against a It was Walsh’s dogged investigations tax assessment of the land’s worth publisher. In 1935 the that had blown open the Teapot as $10,326 — which counted only had launched a round of nasty Dome Scandal and brought down its 207.7 acres and its contents like attacks against Ickes, and Ickes had Albert Fall, and no one had felt barns and cows, not its extraordinary started an investigation into whether like questioning Walsh’s morals or location or aesthetic value. Demaray the Tribune building in Chicago was punishing the hero of Teapot Dome admitted that a more realistic complying with public water usage by taking away his land. But now his value was the $28,950 estimated by regulations and taxes. exemption offered possible cover for Superintendent Tillotson a few years For Ickes it may have been news William Randolph Hearst. Hearst’s previously. Demaray asked Ickes to that Hearst owned land at the Grand lawyers had read this exemption and authorize him to begin negotiations Canyon. Ickes quickly changed this was one reason why Hearst had with Hearst, starting with an offer of the nature of the game. In between maintained a caretaker in residence at $28,950. his February and April speeches Grandview all these years. (Actually Hearst tried to claim that the denouncing the newspaper barons, Hearst had two caretakers in land’s unique location and aesthetic Ickes directed the director of the NPS residence, Dick Gilliland at the Berry value gave it huge financial value, but to prepare a report on how Hearst homestead and a secondary caretaker the Interior Department would refuse had been using his Grand Canyon at Grandview Point). But the Interior to concede this in their negotiations, land, and he directed an Interior Department lawyer believed that even as they declared that the land’s Department lawyer to examine the the department could evade this unique location and aesthetic value department’s authority to condemn restriction on the grounds that Hearst was their justification for condemning Hearst’s land. Condemnation is the himself did not use this land as a and obtaining the land for the park. legal process by which a government residence: The NPS sought some independent agency takes over private lands …it is my opinion that assessments of the land’s value, for public use, against the will of the restriction would not be including from Jesse Kelly of the the land owner, often for far less applicable to this property. Even land acquisition department of the compensation than the land owner the assessed valuation of the Standard Oil Company. The NPS would demand. Ickes started the improvements for tax purposes was appalled when, on May 12, Kelly condemnation ball rolling even indicate that they are not such as made a confidential report that the before there had been any formal to constitute a possible residence Hearst land was worth $168,170. Of negotiations between the NPS and for Mr. Hearst. Certainly if the course, Standard Oil was accustomed

8 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org to assessing land as if it were going to and dismay over the complication were hauled in from thirty miles be commercially developed. The NPS this could bring to acquiring Hearst’s away, over mountains. One time kept this report secret. land. Bryant reported: “I carefully when workmen noticed that one tree In June, Hearst lawyer Frank concealed any idea that immediate in a newly planted row of trees was Lathrop came to NPS regional director purchase was being considered.” dying, they painted its yellowing Frank Kittredge and insisted that the In the mails Bryant’s report leaves green so that Hearst would not land was worth $250,000, including crossed paths with a letter from get angry and they could wait until the original $125,000 Hearst had paid Secretary Ickes announcing that he he left to replace it. One time movie for it plus all the related expenses had obtained the $100,000, but: “It mogul Samuel Goldwyn backed his and taxes and caretaker salaries is quite possible that condemnation car into a San Simeon tree, and Hearst and lawyers’ fees for a quarter of a proceedings eventually will be spent $5,000 moving that tree to a century. However, Hearst was willing instituted for acquisition of this safer location. At the Grand Canyon a 69 to sell his land for a bargain rate of property.” timber company had built a railroad only $200,000. Lathrop warned that This became more likely when, spur line just south of Hearst’s land an unnamed private interest had at the end of July, Hearst’s Frank to conduct logging operations, and made a firm offer of $150,000 for the Lathrop wrote to the NPS’s Frank Hearst could have made some easy land — this might have been Cissy Kittredge: “…our separate ideas money off his trees, but he didn’t. Patterson. But Lathrop said that of value are so far apart that it When Grand Canyon rangers were Hearst preferred to sell his land to the would be fruitless to give further cutting down trees in the Grandview NPS. Indeed, Hearst would consider consideration to negotiations looking area to control a mistletoe infestation, making the 50% private donation of to putting these properties into public they offered to cut infected trees on 70 the land (giving him a sizable tax ownership.” Kittredge and others Hearst’s land, but Hearst refused. break), if the NPS paid him the other in the NPS weren’t happy about William Randolph Hearst did half, $100,000, in cash. This was, the idea of condemnation. At least not like having his things taken in fact, the exact amount of money Hearst had honored park values, away from him, either his trees or Secretary Ickes was in the process even leaving Grandview Point open his land, especially by a communist. of obtaining from the Public Works for tourists. Kittredge wanted further Hearst began pulling all his political Administration. But it seemed that negotiations with a higher offer. But strings. only a portion of these funds could be Ickes pushed ahead, demanding Hearst flew to Seattle to talk used for land acquisition, and the rest an Order of Taking, which the with the son-in-law of President needed to be used for public works Department of the Interior filed on Roosevelt, John Boettiger. When — such as tearing down Hearst’s September 16, 1939. Hearst would get Hearst’s presidential candidate buildings. $28,950, a sum soon deposited with Alf Landon had been clobbered in Three weeks after this the court. The justification was: 1936, Hearst had been shocked and exchange, H. C. Bryant, the Acting The land is necessary for use in humbled, and as a peace offering, or Superintendent of Grand Canyon connection with a Public Works influence offering, he had offered the National Park (Tillotson had been project which contemplates the editorship of his Seattle newspaper promoted) reported evidence that conservation of natural resources, to the husband of FDR’s daughter “wealthy men are being approached the prevention of soil erosion, Anna, newspaperman John Boettiger, 68 as possible buyers.” Lincoln forestation and reforestation, the and given him more autonomy than Ellsworth, a famous polar explorer preservation of scenic beauty, the any other Hearst editor. Now Hearst with considerable wealth, called the building of foot trails, roadways, pressured Boettiger to help save his park to inquire about Hearst’s land, cabins, shelters and other Grand Canyon land. On October 17, and soon afterward Bryant got a visit structures and improvements 1939, Harold Ickes wrote in his diary: from the son of George Lorimer, the necessary and appropriate to John Boettiger called me up publisher of the Saturday Evening provide public facilities for from Seattle. William Randolph Post and a longtime conservation picnicking, camping, and other Hearst had been up there to 71 ally of Stephen Mather. George recreational activities… see him on Saturday to discuss Lorimer’s son had come to look over with him our suit which I have Hearst’s land to consider buying it The “forestation and reforestation” authorized to condemn his and building there a memorial to phrase was especially dubious, for holding on the rim of Grand his father, a conservation museum William Randolph Hearst was a Canyon. Hearst does not want and library. Since George Lorimer fanatical tree lover. His lands at San to sell this holding, and I finally had played a large role in promoting Simeon and Wyntoon were heavily said to Boettiger that if Hearst the establishment of Grand Canyon forested, and Hearst refused to allow were willing, we might be able National Park, Bryant was torn the cutting of a single tree. The logs to work out an arrangement by between admiration for a worthy idea for the large fireplaces at San Simeon which we would take title at a www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 9 fair, reasonable market price, who had previously indicated he believe that in the present state subject to a life estate in Hearst was ready to send in the Civilian of the Federal finances any and provided that Hearst did not Conservation Corps boys to demolish money should be expended from make any improvements on the Hearst’s buildings: the Treasury for the acquisition place or use it differently from PENDING POSSIBLE of property which is not how he has been using it in the SETTLEMENT FOR absolutely essential to the proper past. John thought that this was ACQUISITION HEARST administration of the National 72 75 fair enough. PROPERTIES ON BASIS Park. PERMITTING HEARST Ickes was repeating the till-death TO REMAIN THERE Ickes responded: offer Stephen Mather had made BALANCE HIS LIFE WHICH It has been the understanding seventeen years before, but now it SECRETARY HAS INDICATED for a number of years that, when was seventeen years less generous — AGREEABLE TO HIM NO Mr. Hearst found himself ready Hearst was 76 years old. Ickes did not PLANS SHOULD BE MADE to give up his Grand Canyon repeat Mather’s offer to let Hearst’s TO RAZE BUILDINGS holdings he would want the children retain the land. UNTIL OPPORTUNITY Federal Government to have Hearst also contacted his TO ASCERTAIN FROM them. Since representatives of his congressional friends. On November HEARST’S REPRESENTATIVES Estate initiated the negotiations 19 1939 Ickes wrote in his diary: WHATEVER BUILDINGS which ultimately failed only Senator Hayden called DESIRED BY HEARST FOR because of an honest difference on Monday about the Hearst SELF AND CUSTODIAN of opinion as to value, I do not property on the rim of Grand SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO see that we have violated any 74 Canyon, which we are seeking REMAIN. assurances given to Mr. Hearst in 76 to condemn. He said that when the past. the bill went through creating the Senator Hayden was not placated. Grand Canyon National Park, he He was angry at Ickes for turning him Ickes also insisted he was trying to and Ashurst promised Hearst that into a liar and a betrayer of a friend, prevent “possible future alienation of no attempt would ever be made to a very powerful friend. On December the lands to some one else who might bring in his property. He wished 22 he wrote to Ickes: develop or use them adversely to the 77 that he had been consulted. I When the bill to create that park welfare…” Months later Ickes told him that I had not known Park was first introduced, Mr. was still trying to placate Hayden, about any such agreement, since Hearst made inquiry as to writing a similar letter with many of this park was brought in before whether the establishment of the same lines. my Administration. The Park a National Park would in any Hearst also got California Service must have known of it way interfere with the use and Senator Hiram Johnson, a longtime but said nothing to me about it, enjoyment of his patented lands, progressive buddy of Harold Ickes although we have talked about and he was assured that all of his and an ally in creating Kings Canyon this property for a long time. I rights and interests would be fully National Park, to write a letter to the told Hayden that we really ought protected. At a later date, when I NPS. Hearst attorney John Francis to have this land which Hearst introduced a bill to change the Neylan told Senator Johnson: has never used and that the thing boundaries of the Grand Canyon Of course, I think such use of for Hearst to do was to agree to National Park, an attorney the power of condemnation by the a fair price at which he would representing Mr. Hearst stated government is just as dishonest as sell to the Government, while that he would like to have the were the antics of the railroads and reserving a life estate. According bill amended so as to specifically others, in the old days when they to Hayden, Hearst hates to give exempt the Hearst properties overrode the rights of somebody up any property that he owns from acquisition by the Federal whose property they desired. but he has told people that he government. I assured him that Coupling this use of the power intended to leave this at his death such a legislative precaution was of condemnation with these to the Government. Of course, if wholly unnecessary, and stated public works allotments, I think, is this is what he wants to do, he again that Mr. Hearst would not adding insult to injustice. could deed it outright with the be disturbed. I question seriously that 73 reservation of a life estate. Under these circumstances, there is any large amount of I hope that the pending unemployment in the vicinity of On November 30 the NPS’s A. condemnation suit will be the Grand Canyon, and to fake up E. Demaray sent a telegram to the dismissed. As an additional another excuse for squandering superintendent at Grand Canyon, reason for dismissal, I do not some more money seems to me

10 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org characteristic of the new public values, in which the land was there offering only $28,950 for land worth 78 morality. for conquest and private wealth. — Hearst’s latest claim — $392,100. Opposition from powerful Arizonans Another long Coconino Sun article When the condemnation suit had prevented Grand Canyon from invoked the brave, noble, suffering was filed, Hearst angrily withdrew becoming a national park until nearly pioneers who had sacrificed so his offer of splitting a $200,000 price half a century after Yellowstone had much to conquer the West, a sacrifice for the land. Hearst’s lawyers now become a national park. And Hearst the federal government was now claimed that a fair price was $236,100 did have an effective agent for betraying by seizing their hard-won and that “they would fight the stirring up Arizona newspapers. His lands. The noble pioneers they were suit with all the force of the Hearst caretaker, Dick Gilliland, was no naive referring to were Pete Berry and Estates in an endeavor to obtain handyman. Gilliland had been a clerk Ralph Cameron; the article quoted what they consider a satisfactory at the Willard Hotel, the longtime Cameron’s pioneer diary at length price,” as the NPS’s Frank Kittredge hub of political life in Washington and praised his “gallant battle” to noted after a meeting with Frank D. C., where he had mingled with retain control of the Bright Angel Lathrop and a Hearst executive. the politicians who lived there, and Trail. They protested that “they were witnessed the art of scheming. At A January 11, 1940, editorial singled out for condemnation when the Willard, Gilliland had met Ralph in the Williams News was titled there are other tracts of privately Cameron, and Cameron brought “Unprovoked Aggression,” and owned land in Grand Canyon which Gilliland to the Grand Canyon to help portrayed Hearst as defender of are more troublesome, such as the manage his properties. Gilliland had democracy against tyranny: Hogan property.” Hearst’s agents absorbed Cameron’s fierce hostility There is no positive stopping complained “that they had always against the NPS, and as Hearst’s man, place for their aggression this cooperated with the National Park Gilliland was a continuing source of side of undisputed authority, Service, had given access to the hostility. Hearst paid Gilliland about of absolute despotism…Yet, in Grand View Point without charge to $35,000 a year in today’s dollars, plus spite of federal encroachments, the public, and had complied with generous expenses, so Gilliland had American democracy is still 79 park regulations in all respects.” a lot to lose. Now Gilliland did his pretty free from shackles but After all this, the NPS was trying best to stir up public hostility against year by year federal authority to rob them. They soon produced the condemnation suit. One of his over the lives of Americans is Horace Albright’s 1929 letter saying tactics was to scare as many people as being extended a little more Hearst had cooperated “splendidly” possible by claiming that the Hearst and a little more. It behooves with the NPS and promising not land seizure was part of a master plan good democrats to oppose that to proceed against Hearst’s lands to seize all other private property in extension wherever possible… without his cooperation. Kittredge the park, including that of the Santa Thus the battle of the private was sympathetic, and he wrote to Fe Railway, which was the largest interests to hang onto that NPS Director Demaray: “Mr. Hearst taxpayer in Coconino County. which has been theirs within the has been a good park-minded citizen On January 26, 1940, the Coconino boundaries of the Grand Canyon in Grand Canyon, as far as anything Sun headlined: “Department National Park, takes on more I have ever known or heard. This is of Interior Scraps All Treaty than local interest. Each of these going to make the case a little more Commitments Of Past to Grab Hearst private holdings is an outpost difficult, perhaps, if it goes to court.” Property: Ickes’ Dictator Tactics of needed to halt the aggression Kittredge also warned that Citizen Confiscation...” The article ridiculed of federal bureaucracy. So long Hearst’s determination to fight the Ickes’s claim that $100,000 worth as these outposts can be held, condemnation “to the limit” might of public-works funds should be democracy will be just that much apply not just in court, but in “the spent on Hearst’s 207 acres when safer. chain of newspapers which are under the park contained over 1,000 square 80 their control.” miles of equally worthy lands. It In a March 1 article the Coconino Until the condemnation suit knocked Ickes for ignoring the pleas Sun denounced “the imperialistic became official in the U. S. District of Senator Hayden and for betraying ambitions of the Department of Court in Phoenix on November 21 a long history of commitments not Interior” and offered long quotes 1939 the fight between Hearst and to take Hearst’s lands. It threatened from a senate speech of Senator the NPS had remained behind the that removal of Hearst’s land from Henry Ashurst, accusing Harold scenes, but now it hit the newspapers. the tax rolls would force the county Ickes of being drunk with “the heady Hearst didn’t own a newspaper in to raise taxes on everyone else (a wine of power.” Ashurst recalled Arizona, but he didn’t need one laughable claim considering that in how when he wrote the law creating to wage this campaign. Arizona 1938 Hearst had paid only $248.30 in Grand Canyon National Park, he had was still a stronghold of Wild West property taxes). It protested the NPS promised that private inholdings www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 11 would be respected. the Service even though he is The government power grab was A February 9 Coconino Sun article still being allowed the privilege “so far reaching” that “it is fraught quoted Dick Gilliland as saying he of occupying land, the title with the possibilities of vicious 84 knew for a fact that after the NPS to which now rests with the practice.” It was an attack on the U. threw Hearst out, it was planning Government…I wish to call S. Constitution. to seize the property of the Santa Fe your attention to the fact that NPS officials were appalled by Railway. The newspaper moaned: the Coconino Sun…is quite these attacks and launched a public- “Enormous property valuation evasive about such a statement. relations campaign, writing letters would be lost to the county tax rolls They offer to “bet” that such an and making public appearances and if the railroad were taken over by the assertion was made rather than private meetings. park. The ranchers, dependent on the back up their original statement, Grand Canyon Acting Grand Canyon railroad, would also which was false. The general local Superintendent Bryant wrote to, suffer.” In its headline the article said reaction is that while Gilliland is “of all groups,” the Arizona Hotel that the new acting superintendent an “old timer” he has gone too Association, which depended on of Grand Canyon National Park, J. V. far with his vitriolic campaign national-park tourist dollars, and 82 Lloyd, “Admits That Park Promises against the Service.” declared: “my reaction was most Are Scraps of Paper.” Worthless. unpleasant.” “What a glorious day When this article came out, Dick Various organizations also it will be when time and trouble is Gilliland headed for the telegraph joined the attack. Ed Hamilton, a taken to check and know both sides office and sent a telegram to Harold member of the Coconino County of a question…[You] could have Ickes denouncing this “scraps of Board of Supervisors, was especially telephoned National Park Service paper” outrage. Gilliland did get alarmed by the condemnation suit, representatives for the facts.” The Ickes’s attention. Ickes contacted NPS for Hamilton was the owner of the NPS version of events was that Hearst director Demaray, who telegraphed Rowe Well property, and he figured had approached the NPS wanting to J. V. Lloyd asking for an explanation. that if the NPS could get away sell his land; the NPS had engaged in A nervous Lloyd wrote a long air- with taking the land of the mighty long and honest negotiations but had mail denial: he never said this; the William Randolph Hearst, he didn’t been unable to agree on a fair price; newspaper article never claimed stand a chance. Hamilton helped fan now a jury of patriotic American he said this; the phrase was just a fears about the government seizing citizens would assign a fair price; headline written by a hostile editor. everything in sight and ruining the tax Hearst wasn’t being dispossessed; Reassured, Harold Ickes sent a base. He got the Board of Supervisors and the NPS had no further plans letter to Dick Gilliland, misspelling to pass a resolution condemning the or funds for acquiring any other his name in addressing him as condemnation. private lands. Bryant signed off his “My dear Mr. Gilliand.” Ickes said The Arizona Hotel Association letter “With deep regrets for the 85 that “Owing to Mr. Lloyd’s long reprinted the county resolution in unfortunate imputations.” service and acquaintance with the their newsletter, along with a cartoon To the Williams-Grand Canyon Department’s policies, it is highly picturing the Department of the Chamber of Commerce Bryant was improbable that he would have made Interior as a bear chasing a cowboy “astounded.” “Looking at the name such a statement, which appears to be labeled “private property of Arizona.” of the Chamber of Commerce it 81 a newspaper canard.” The headline made clear that this was would appear to be voting against 86 Gilliland sent a copy of Ickes’s a Russian bear and invoked the recent itself.” response to the Coconino Sun, which communist invasion of Finland: “Will To the Coconino County Board on March 8 commented: “Well, Arizona Become Another Finland? of Supervisors, NPS director Arno regardless whether the canard was Or Have We Got Guts Too?” The text Cammerer “was astounded.” “Grand committed by the newspaper or warned that all of Arizona was being Canyon National Park is a great asset Lloyd (and we are betting in favor “Stalinized.” “Whether property to Coconino County…Anything that of the newspaper’s report), we are belongs to a rich or poor man, don’t improves the administration and surprised Park Service Lloyd would let the government purloin it, for usefulness of the Park makes more commit himself to any such personal such is un-American. In cold reality, enthusiastic visitors and increases opinion. Nevertheless, Gilliland it’s Nazism and Russian tactics of the the travel, thus easily compensating 83 writes us that he is preparing a lowest denominator.” for the loss of a few hundred dollars magazine article and will call it ‘THE The Williams-Grand Canyon in assessable property within 87 STINK ON THE BRINK.’” Chamber of Commerce passed a the Park.” In reply, the Board J. V. Lloyd was annoyed and sent a resolution scoffing at the rationale for of Supervisors passed another letter to NPS director Demaray: the condemnation, saying that Hearst resolution against the NPS. Even if This is another example of could have taken all those proposed Hearst wished to sell his land, they Mr. Gilliland’s activities against conservation measures by himself. were opposed. “But when we think

12 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org of the vast miles of rim line — the has shown no appreciation of the every consideration may be given acres and acres in the Park available Department’s courtesy in allowing to Mr. Hearst’s wish that the certain for recreation areas, we question the him to remain on the property, but, buildings requested may be allowed 93 good faith of the Department of the on the contrary, has openly and to remain.” 88 Interior in its present action.” vigorously assailed the action of the But with the deadline looming, 92 The anti-NPS resolutions got sent Department in acquiring it.” the Interior Department prevailed to Arizona’s senators and governor, The condemnation suit worked its upon the Justice Department to order and they complained to Secretary way through the court, very slowly. Hearst to surrender his lands and Ickes. Ickes answered Arizona Dick Gilliland testified, after meeting remove Dick Gilliland from them. Governor Jones: “The reason for with Hearst to plan strategy. In Gilliland telegraphed Hearst to ask this policy is that the exploitation of January 1940 Hearst’s attorneys had if he had to comply, and Hearst said private lands in a national park may filed their own countersuit, claiming yes. But this action wasn’t final: the defeat the purposes for which the that the land was worth $392,100. condemnation case was still going on 89 park is established.” Hearst’s attorneys were doing their in court. Among themselves NPS homework, studying what other On July 5 the Coconino Sun ran managers measured the progress inholdings in national parks had been the headline: “Harold L. Ickes and frustrations of what Acting worth. In court, Hearst’s attorneys Outs Gilliland From Home.” Superintendent H. C. Bryant called argued that the government was “Mr. Gilliland,” it reported, “said their “good missionary work.” To acting unconstitutionally. They that Hearst attorneys plan no director Demaray, Bryant wrote: were doing their best to delay the compromise in their fight against “I spent January 3 at Flagstaff proceedings, since the Public Works the condemnation. Meanwhile, Mr. and Williams attempting to offset Administration appropriation for Gilliland, a pioneer resident at Grand the activities of Mr. Gilliland… the land needed to be spent on Canyon, has been forced to leave his Everywhere I went friends told me actual improvement work by June quarters on the Hearst property…” that his presentation of the situation 30, 1940, or the funds would expire. Weeks later the NPS was still was far different from the facts I With this deadline approaching, NPS trying to turn the bureaucratic gears presented…I really feel that the managers got nervous and began to mobilize the WPA funds as quickly Chamber of Commerce at Williams discussing starting improvement as possible. Acting Superintendent sincerely regrets having passed work even before they had won the Lloyd now had a new justification for the hasty resolution urged by Mr. suit. They had made lots of plans demolishing Hearst’s buildings. The 90 Gilliland.” but frozen them when Ickes renewed 400th anniversary of the Coronado Yet a month later when J. V. Mather’s offer to give Hearst lifetime expedition, which brought the first Lloyd became Acting Superintendent rights. It was already too late to do Europeans to the Grand Canyon, and traveled to Flagstaff, he was genuine construction work, such as was scheduled for that summer, a lot less positive: “I was greatly improving the road to Grandview and it included a history pageant disappointed to find such an Point or building picnic facilities, but on the canyon rim. Lloyd proposed unfriendly feeling existing toward it wouldn’t take long to demolish that the pageant be relocated onto the park, after years of patient efforts Hearst’s buildings, which would Hearst’s lands, which would require to cultivate more cordial relations.” qualify as an expenditure of the the immediate razing of Hearst’s Even with the local attorney for the funds. buildings. Santa Fe Railway and Fred Harvey Regional Director Kittredge In August there was a new twist Company, “I was amazed to find that complained to Ickes that he had to the Hearst story. After having two even he was rather pointed in his wanted to continue negotiating over acting superintendents, Bryant and condemnation of the Service.” At the price, that the NPS should have Lloyd, Grand Canyon National Park Rotary Club he “once again found the offered as much as $75,000. Ickes finally got a new superintendent. feeling against the Service to be quite had weakened the NPS’s bargaining It was Frank Kittredge, who had bitter.” At a meeting of the Coconino power by diverting $8,300 of the opposed Ickes’s condemnation suit County Board of Supervisors, he was $100,000 appropriation to other and who regarded William Randolph “fully conscious of the handicap of projects, including the Statue of Hearst as “a very good park-minded discussing any park problems or Liberty. With two weeks to go before citizen.” policies with the Board of Supervisors the June 30 deadline, Kittredge Within days of taking office, or the average Flagstaff citizen at wrote to NPS director Demaray: Kittredge went out to Citizen this time, when they seem to be so “It is my feeling that Mr. Hearst, as Hearst’s property to finally take a 91 disturbed.” indicated in conversation with the look at what he had been negotiating Four months later NPS former Director [Albright], has been about. Accompanying Kittredge was director Demaray complained to a very good park-minded citizen. longtime park naturalist-ranger Eddie Secretary Ickes: “…Mr. Gilliland, With this in mind, it is hoped that McKee. Kittredge wrote a memo www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 13 saying that Eddie McKee wanted a that the land was worth $86,000, the proceedings could take years and lots number of buildings preserved for whole deal could have been wrecked. of money. This case had already cost their historic value or future park use. Hearst’s attorneys had no doubt Hearst $16,745 in legal fees. Hearst These included two log buildings that Harold Ickes had malicious should settle for what he’d gotten. Pete Berry had built for a blacksmith motives, but in court they had been There was solace in having “nicked” shop and an employees bunkhouse; unable to offer such a case. Attorney Harold Ickes for three times what Emery Kolb had told McKee that Henry MacKay, Jr. explained to Ickes had wanted. these buildings had been there when Hearst: Attorney Henry MacKay advised he first arrived at the canyon in1902. The right of the Government Hearst that at least he could get an McKee also wanted a log corral to condemn for the purpose of income tax break from the court saved. McKee wanted the caretaker’s a National Park is unquestioned decision if he declared and could cabin at Grandview Point “preserved and could not be successfully prove that the Grandview property and converted into a self-operating attacked. Our only point was was not for personal use, but had exhibit room.” McKee also wanted the right of Secretary Ickes been an investment property, on Dick Gilliland’s cabin preserved: to condemn these lands for which he’d lost money. This was “There is a possibility that there may National Park purposes under contrary to what Hearst had always be some park use for the structure and the guise of a PWA project, and told the NPS about his land. But its presence will not interfere with thus seek and use PWA funds Hearst now dutifully wrote a letter any development.” But Kittredge to accomplish his purpose. to one of his lawyers declaring that had his own motives for not wanting However, the Declaration of Grandview had always been an to tear down this building. This “so- Taking and the Declaration of investment property. Hearst also called Hearst cabin was considered Necessity are regular on their vented his anger: by the Hearst people as something face. The trial court would not I am terribly distressed and of a symbol,” and Kittredge didn’t permit us to go behind the face disappointed at the values fixed want it razed without his personal of these documents to impeach by the court upon the Grand 94 authorization. Kittredge had these official statements by Canyon property. They are started the whole process, only to taking the testimony of Secretary greatly below its worth. have it ripped from his hands by the Ickes and his subordinates, and There is very little privately imperious Harold Ickes, but now it is extremely doubtful that the owned Grand Canyon property. Kittredge would finish it. Circuit Court would do so either. I bought mine knowing that The condemnation suit dragged In other words, the determination its rarity and its unique location on for more than another year. On of necessity is also a question of would make it an extremely October 2, 1941, the court finally fact delegated to the Secretary profitable investment. awarded the Hearst land to the NPS of the Interior, which the Courts I did not make any mistake for the price of $85,000, plus 6% will not question in the absence in my estimates as far as private 95 interest for its initial underpayment of fraud. bidders were concerned. for the land. I could have sold it at a When Hearst’s attorneys asked William Randolph Hearst was handsome profit for commercial the judge, David Ling, how he had incensed, and he wanted to appeal purposes, and Mrs. Patterson arrived at this figure, he answered the decision. His attorneys talked tried to buy it from me for her that there was no realistic way to him out of it. A majority of the judges private use. determine what such a unique on the appeals court were New Deal I held out for twice what I property was worth, but he had appointments, and they would not paid for the property and I know decided that the Hearst claim was be friendly to Hearst. A new decision I would have secured it except too high and the NPS claim was too might award Hearst even less money. for the fact that the government low. Hearst’s attorneys supposed Hearst couldn’t demand the price insisted on ridiculously low that Judge Ling had simply split he had paid in 1914, for the courts values and the courts were the difference, leaving a figure that determined only the current value apparently afraid to render a fair was three times the NPS claim and of a property, and in the Depression verdict. one-third the Hearst claim. But property values everywhere had I think we should appeal the Judge Ling’s figure was extremely declined. The Grandview property case. convenient for the government. was indeed, as Judge Ling said, so There is no reason why the Secretary Ickes had diverted $8,300 of unique that it was impossible to assess government should plunder me the original $100,000, and the nearly its market value. The government too of this beautiful property for half two years of 6% interest owed by was unhappy with the decision, and of what I paid for it. the NPS came to $6,264, leaving only if Hearst provoked them further, they I should get a reasonable $85,436. If Judge Ling had declared might file their own appeal. Further profit or at least what I paid for it.

14 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org The testimony of the vast (Endnotes) 67 Memorandum from Frederic L. majority of experts proves largely 37 Harold Ickes, The New Democracy Kirgis, Acting Solicitor, Department 96 increased value. (New York: W. W. Norton, 1934) p of the Interior, February 28, 1938. File 19-20. L3023, GCNPRL. Since the NPS had almost nothing 38 Ibid, p 38-9. 68 H. C. Bryant to Director of NPS, July left of its $100,000, there was now 39 Ibid, p 72-3. 9, 1939. File L3023, GCNPRL. no money to do actual work on the 40 Ickes speech of November 19, 1934, 69 Harold Ickes to W. C. Mendenhall land. Besides, very soon there was a quoted in T. H. Watkins, Righteous and others, July 10, 1939. File L3023, world war on. A decade later, most Pilgrim: The Life and Times of Harold GCNPRL. of the buildings were still there, still L. Ickes 1874-1952 (New York: Henry 70 Frank Lathrop to Frank Kittredge, decaying. Holt and Company, 1990) p 550. July 31, 1939. File L3023, GCNPRL. There is no word about Franklin 41 Ibid, p 550. 71 Declaration of Taking, Sept 16, 1939. Roosevelt’s reaction. We don’t 42 Ibid, p 550. File L3023, GCNPRL. know exactly what role he played 43 Watkins, speech of 1938, p 581. 72 Ickes, October 17, 1939, The Secret in Secretary Ickes’s actions. But the 44 Albright, The Birth of the National Park Diaries of Harold Ickes, Volume Three: president had always supported Service, p 307-8. The Lowering Clouds, 1939-1941 (New Ickes’s open combat against Hearst 45 Ickes, Diaries, Volume One, November York: Simon and Schuster, 1954) p 41. and the rest of the conservative press. 15, 1935, p 472. 73 Ibid, p 63. Roosevelt was surely aware that Ickes 46 Ibid, December 22, 1935, p 492. 74 Telegram from A. E. Demaray to H. was moving to take Hearst’s land. 47 Ibid, January 18, 1936, p 519. C Bryant, November 30, 1939. File Roosevelt must have taken some 48 Ibid, February 4, 1936, p 533. L3023, GCNPRL. sweet, mischievous pleasure in this 49 Ibid, July 7, 1936, p 633. 75 Senator Carl Hayden to Harold Ickes, triumph over Hearst. 50 Watkins, p 438. December 22, 1939. William Randolph At the end of 1948, NPS officials 51 Ickes, Diaries, Volume One, August Hearst papers, carton 42, folder 1. were still trying to figure out if they 25, 1936. Bancroft Library. had the legal right to tear down the 52 Ibid, August 25, 1936, p 669-70. 76 Harold Ickes to Senator Carl Hayden, Hearst buildings. Since the land 53 Ibid, August 30, 1936, p 671. January 4, 1940. William Randolph had been taken on the premise of 54 Ibid, September 26, 1936, p 685. Hearst papers, carton 42, folder 1. being a public works project but no 55 Quoted in Nasaw, p 523. Bancroft Library. public works had been performed, 56 Ickes, November 14, 1936 The Secret 77 Ibid. was the whole deal solid? A. E. Diaries of Harold Ickes, Volume Two: The 78 John Francis Neylan to Senator Demaray pointed out that, in fact, Inside Struggle,1936-1939 (New York: Hiram Johnson, October 16, 1939. very quietly, while the court case Simon and Schuster, 1954) p 5. John Francis Neylan papers, box was still proceeding, $3,000 had been 57 Horace Albright interview. 192, file: “Grand Canyon Property.” authorized and spent on the land, 58 Dick Gilliland to A. T. Sokolow, Bancroft Library. including razing some buildings. William Randolph Hearst papers, 79 Memorandum, Frank Kittredge, This satisfied the NPS’s claim to the carton 9, folder 29. Bancroft Library. October 25, 1939. File L3023, land. There is no word as to how the 59 Quoted in Taylor Coffman, Building GCNPRL. NPS replaced that $3,000, which it for Hearst and Morgan: Voices from 80 Frank Kittredge to A. E. Demaray, needed to purchase the land. the George Loorz Papers (Berkeley: December 9, 1939. File L3023, Two years later the rest of Hearst’s Berkeley Hills Books, 2003) p 266. GCNPRL. buildings were demolished. 60 Quoted in Nasaw, p 529. 81 Harold Ickes to R. P. Gilliland, Today some remnants of the 61 Quoted in Taylor Coffman, p 310. February 26, 1940. File L3023, buildings are still there, but often 62 Time, March 13, 1939. GCNPRL. they are not even noticed by people 63 Frank Kittredge to Miner Tillotson, 82 J. V. Lloyd to A. E. Demaray, March walking right past them on their way September 22, 1938. File L3023, 15, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. to Hearst Tanks, two small ponds GCNPRL. 83 Arizona Hotel Association developed as a water supply, now 64 Frank Kittredge to Miner Tillotson, newsletter, Christmas 1939. File a good bird-watching spot. Few November 18, 1938. File L3023, L3023, GCNPRL. visitors to Hearst Tanks realize how GCNPRL. 84 Resolution, Williams-Grand Canyon that name originated. 65 Harold Ickes, America’s House of Lords Chamber of Commerce. December 21, (New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1939) p 1939. File L3023, GCNPRL. * * * 182. 85 H. C. Bryant to Foster Rockwell, Special thanks to Karen Greig for 66 Hearst to Martin F. Huberth, Dec. December 27, 1939. File L3023, her heroic and ingenious research 5, 1941. William Randolph Hearst GCNPRL. in the Hearst papers at the Bancroft Papers, Carton 10, folder 44. Bancroft 86 H. C. Bryant to Mary Stevenson, Library, UC-Berkeley. Library. December 27, 1939. File L3023, www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 15 Grand Canyon Historical Society PRSRT STD PO Box 31405 U.S. POSTAGE Flagstaff, AZ 86003 PAID FLAGSTAFF, AZ PERMIT 333

GCNPRL. 87 Arno Cammerer to Andy Matson, December ?, 1939. File L3023, This is your last Ol' Pioneer GCNPRL. 88 Resolution, Coconino County Board unless you renew your membership! of Supervisors, December 20, 1939. File L3023, GCNPRL. 89 Harold Ickes to Governor R. T. Jones, February 6, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. 90 H. C. Bryant to A. E. Demaray, January 4, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. 91 J. V. Lloyd to A. E. Demaray, February 1, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. 92 A. E. Demaray to Harold Ickes, June 4, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. 93 Frank Kittredge to A. E. Demaray, June 18, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. 94 Memorandum, Frank Kittredge, August 12, 1940. File L3023, GCNPRL. • Membership in the Society is open to any person interested in the 95 Henry S. MacKay, Jr. to William historical, educational, and charitable purposes of the Society. Randolph Hearst, October 3, 1941. • Membership is on an annual basis using the standard calendar; and William Randolph Hearst papers, box dues are payable on the 1st of January of each year. 8, folder 17. Bancroft Library. • Membership is $25 per year ($30 outside U.S.). To become a member 96 William Randolph Hearst to Martin F. or renew your membership, go to grandcanyonhistory.org. There is Huberth, December 5, 1941. William an online payment option. Or, write down your name, address, phone Randolph Hearst papers, carton 10, number and email address and send it with your check to the Grand folder 44. Bancroft Library. Canyon Historical Society at PO Box 31405, Flagstaff, AZ 86003.