Prague Castle at Castles Dotting the Green Hills of the Dusk Or Walk Across the River on the St

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The Czech Republic: Coming Out of the Past 1by Memphis Barbree The Czech Republic, epicenter of the middle of the western part of the Bohemian power for centuries and country. locked away behind the Iron Curtain Scaffolding, the clinking of stone for half of the 20th century, is more hammers, and trucks full of concrete than a decade out in the fresh air and debris and other general ruckus of free world and in the middle of a construction are common elements of metamorphosis to rival that of any life, especially in Prague. Centuries- Kafka novel. Prague, in particular, is old buildings are getting fresh coats of fashioning a whole new economic and paint and being restored to their full social identity while a world of grandeur. In this old European atmos- beauty-hungry tourists look on. phere, you can almost feel the pres- With the Iron Curtain gone, curios- ence of legendary figures like Holy ity seekers have flooded into Prague, Roman Emperor Charles IV, Franz marveling at the treasures of this Kafka, and adopted son Wolfgang ancient city that were seemingly Amadeus Mozart and where locals and tucked away in mothballs until The guidebooks can and do talk of ghosts Velvet Revolution. Hundreds of years and magic. Believer or no, when you of history are on display, from fairytale see the silhouette of Prague Castle at castles dotting the green hills of the dusk or walk across the river on the St. Bohemian countryside, to baroque Charles bridge at midnight, or stand buildings enlivening the most mun- among the crypts of ancient kings and dane streets. (Hint: Avoid compar- saints in the castle basements, it’s easy isons to Disneyland if you want to to be charmed. score points with any locals.) Homosexual relations have been Who are the locals? Well, mostly legal here since 1961. In Communist Czechs, of course, some Slovaks, a few times gay and lesbian relationships Poles, a sprinkling of Hungarians and were officially ignored as perversions Germans, a dash of Gypsies, and a few or bourgeois indulgences. Threats of “others.” They are mostly atheists, exposure sometimes served as a con- from their recent Communist past, venient threat for the secret police. but about 40% belong to the Roman Many gays and especially lesbians Catholic church. About 10 million stayed closeted and socially isolated. inhabit this rolling, landlocked coun- Since the fall of Communism, gays try squeezed in between Germany, and lesbians are coming out a bit more Austria, Slovakia, and Poland, bor- and working toward societal visibility dered by mountain ranges, and cover- and acceptance. ing about 78,995 sq. km (30,500 In 1990, the Czech parliament low- square miles) (about the size of South ered the age of consent to 15 (18 if Carolina). Prague, the capital city, is in money is involved) for same-sex 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 18

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Tips The Crown, Not the Euro Czech currency is the crown or koruna (plural, kuruny), abbreviated Kc. The crown is divided into one hundred heller (h). Bank notes come in denominations of 20Kc, 50Kc, 100Kc, 200Kc, 500Kc, 1,000Kc, 2,000Kc, and 5,000Kc. There are also 10h, 20h, 50h, and 1Kc, 2Kc, 5Kc, 10Kc, and 50Kc coins. At this writing, the U.S. dollar was equivalent to 29Kc. Prices over $5 have been rounded to the nearest dollar.

couples, putting them on par with Amsterdam or San Francisco, but their straight counterparts and there Prague is one of the most out and are no restrictions on travel for tourists about cities in Eastern Europe. with HIV. A group formed in 1991, Many gays are slow to come out Sdruzení Organizací Homosexuáních and rather guarded about their private Obcan* (Gay Initiative), coordinates lives. You won’t find much gay PDA the efforts of nearly two dozen gay- (public display of affection) in these rights groups in just about every city. parts. In 1998, they pushed for a bill that You could perhaps expect a country would have created a domestic part- with a playwright as its first post- nership registration. The measure was Communist leader to be fairly homo- defeated by a few votes, but the cam- friendly, and President Václav Havel paign got Czechs talking. (who recently retired after serving Gay bashings aren’t unknown, but three terms) comes by an openness of there hasn’t been a lone galvanizing mind with the help of family—a gay incident to activate gays. The coun- uncle, Milos Havel, left much of his try’s first gay and lesbian event was estate to his nephew. And this is the held in 1998 in the spa town of former home of one of the world’s Karlovy Vary. During a weekend-long most famous lesbians, tennis legend festival cosponsored by the town, Martina Navrátilova. about 150 supporters held a series of Most of my coverage is devoted to discussions and workshops, high- Prague, one of the oldest and most lighted by a tentative yet proud march important centers of history and cul- in the center of town. ture in Europe. Still, I’d advise you to The decades of Communism defi- venture outside the city for a day trip nitely linger, however, and homosexu- or an overnight, so I’ve included sec- ality is taboo to the majority of a fairly tions on Karlstejn Castle, the ancient traditional Czech population. Studies town of Cesk; Krumlov, and the spa from the Czech Republic show that up town of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad). to 40% of young gays and lesbians Though Praguers can be fairly cosmo- who come out get turned out of their politan in their attitudes, outside the homes by parents and about 20% get city you may encounter less enlight- sent to a doctor. Prague is where many ened views, just as you might in many gay Czechs choose to live. It is still no small towns in the United States. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 19 1 Prague: Art & Eastern European Seduction

The beauty of Prague sends romantic Maybe it will be the light and shadows hearts dancing through the cobble- dancing among centuries-old baroque, stone streets. Just the name—Praha in Gothic, and Art Nouveau buildings Czech—is alluring. and all those heroic and romantic stat- During the more than half a cen- ues atop buildings and framing door- tury it was mostly cut off to the West ways. Perhaps it will be the tower bells by Communism, like a princess in a noting the passing hours or the ghosts tower, Prague developed an air of mys- of centuries that shimmer and whisper tery and romance. In her early in every corner, cobblestone street and postrevolutionary era, the city set its ancient stone facade. Then there are energies to work seducing travelers. the people themselves, with their shy Now the city is still full of history, charm and sparkling eyes. You will, at charm, and romance with Gothic the least, understand what took the churches rubbing shoulders with Bel Ami producers to Prague (you’ve cubist functionalist and ultramodern at least heard of that classic flick). buildings and classical music melding Among all this silk and lace and with jazz and rock. Prague’s character romance, is an edge born of the new is luscious: It’s rich, romantic, and capitalist economy. This can make it intoxicating—with many restoration necessary to rein yourself in from your projects completed and others under- romantic roaming to watch both heart way or planned, Prague seems to be and wallet. Prague can be a bit of a getting more beautiful with age. frontier town where everybody is out What will win your heart first? Per- to make his or her mark and buck. But haps it will be the Czech language as it don’t let this stop a love affair. Simply plays on your ears like the waters off keep your eyes open and brain on and the St. Charles Bridge at sunset. then dive in and enjoy!

1 Prague Essentials ARRIVING & DEPARTING BY PLANE About 20km (13 miles) from the center of Prague, Ruzynê Air- port (& 22011 3321 or 22011 3314; www.csa.cz) is small and simple, but with most of the conveniences you’ll need. Luggage carts are available at the entrance to the baggage claim area. You can stow your luggage for 30Kc (about $1) per bag per day. The main terminal has a Czech Airlines (CSA) tourism office (& 22011 3743 or 22056 2599; www.csa.cz) with airport shuttle bus tickets, a hotel booking service and tour service, a branch of Cedok (the Czech travel agency) with its own hotel booking service, a hotel call-board with many options, shops, ATMs, bank and money exchange counters, a newspaper stand, several restaurants, and major car-rental agencies. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 20

20 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague

At the stand outside the terminal, the going rate for taxis is about 650Kc ($22) to Prague 1 and 720Kc ($25) to Prague 2. Note: It’s not a good idea to take one of the taxis waiting at the airport or immediately outside; there have been many reports of scams and overcharging. We recommend that you only use a taxi service that you can call and reserve in advance, and to check with your hotel for the reputable companies of the moment. A gay-operated transport is available and with advance arrangement a driver will meet you in the arrival hall, holding a sign with your name and take you to your destination, and can answer questions about the gay scene in Prague. The fee is 840 Kc ($29) for up to three people and with a return trip it is 1,421 Kc ($49). You can get information and make reservations at www.gayguide.net. You can also arrange in advance for a Czech airlines minibus (& 22011 3743; www.csa.cz) to collect you at baggage claim and take you to your hotel for fares starting at 370Kc ($13). There is a Cedaz Express Airport Bus (& 22011 4296) that runs daily 5:30am to 9:30pm every half hour and for 90Kc ($3) and it will take you to Námêstí Republiky near the Marriott Hotel and the metro station. They also return to the airport from here. You also have the option of city bus no. 119 that runs from 4:30am to 11:30pm and for 12Kc (40¢) drops off and picks up at the Dejvická Metro stop (on Line A–green). When returning, get off at the very last airport stop because the first buildings with airport signs are almost 3km (2 miles) from the international terminal. Buy bus tickets in the airport at the newspaper stand or from vending machines. A ticket is valid 60 minutes from purchase between the hours of 5am and 8pm, and 90 minutes between 8pm and 5am on Saturdays, Sun- days, and public holidays. BY TRAIN International visitors arrive at the Hlavní Nádrazí (Main Sta- tion), Wilsonova 80, Praha 2, not one of Europe’s most lovely train stations (& 22422 4200; www.praguepost.com for link to schedules). Inside the station you’ll find food vendors, a tourist information counter (the best spot to check in and buy tickets in English), luggage storage, and showers. The station is a 10- minute walk from Václavské námêstí (Wenceslas Square) and adjacent to the Hlavní Nádrazí Metro station on the C line. Just so you know, at night the station is known as a pickup spot for male prostitutes. A second major station is Nádrazí Holesovice (Holesovice Station), Partyzânskâ at Vrbenského, Praha 7 (& 022422 4200), also on the C line. Note: While at times you may find it necessary to ride the train at night, East- ern European trains can get dicey after dark with drunks and shady characters roaming around, even in first class. If you’re traveling at night, stick to populated parts of the train and keep an eye on your luggage at all times. If you leave to go to the bathroom, lock it to the rack. Luggage theft, especially on night trains, is fairly common and robberies are not unknown. BY CAR If you’re motoring into Prague, it’s a good idea to leave your car at the rental agency (located at airport). Parking is hard to come by and compli- cated and the narrow, twisting roads are rough and crowded. There are also warnings circulating, officially and unofficially, of theft involving visitor vehi- cles. However, if you plan to do some exploring outside of Prague, a car can be a smart way to go; it will often get you there faster and more directly than a train or bus—and you do drive on the right. The UAMK motor club provides foreign drivers and tourists updated travel info in English via phone in Prague at & 21230 or 26110 4333. (See the “Getting Around” section, below.) 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 21

PRAGUE ESSENTIALS 21

Value The Prague Card A Prague Card allows 3 days of unlimited travel on city transport, and admission to 40 museums, galleries, and other attractions. It’s sold at the American Express Travel Office on Wenceslas Square; the Cedok travel office at Na Príkopê 18, Praha 1 (& 22419 7111); the Czech Airlines (CSA) office at the airport; and at several Metro and train stations and hotels. The cost is 690Kc ($24) for adults, 560Kc ($19.30) for students.

VISITOR INFORMATION TOURIST OFFICES The city operates four Prague Tourist Information Centers, where you can load up on brochures, maps, and schedules of tours and attractions. The main phone number is & 212444 (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm) and on the Web www.pis.cz. They can assist with booking hotel rooms, tickets to concerts, theater, and other events. Offices are located in the Staromestska radnice (Old Town) Town Hall, Staromêstské nam. 1, Praha 1 (Metro: Staromêst- ská); open Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun to 6pm, and Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun to 5pm); at Na Príkopê 20, Praha 1 (Metro: M*stek); open Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun to 5pm, and Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun to 3pm); Hlavní nadrazí (Main Railway Station), Wilsonova 80, Praha 2 (Metro: Hlavní nadrazí); open Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun to 4pm, and Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun to 3pm); and in the Malá Strana Bridge Tower, on the Lesser Town side of Charles Bridge (Metro: Malostranská; open summer daily 10am–6pm). The Cultural and Information Center on the ground floor of the remodeled Municipal House (Obecní d*m), Námêstí Republiky 5, Praha 1 (& 22200 2100; fax 22200 2636; open daily 10am–6pm), offers tickets, gifts, refresh- ments, and restrooms. The UAMK motor club provides foreign drivers and tourists updated travel info in English via phone in Prague at & 21230 or 26110 4333 and on the Web, www.uamk.cz. WEBSITES Before hitting the cobblestone streets, you may want to surf a few sites for the latest on the ever-changing gay scene in Prague and some general current information on the Czech Republic. A good start is www.gayguide.net with plenty of information for gay and lesbian tourists and online booking for some gay accommodations, sightseeing tours, and gay operated airport shuttles. Note: I cannot recommend the accommodations listed as great places to stay. There’s also www.gay.cz with gay information in Czech and English and links to other gay Czech organizations and services. The Czech gay mag Amigo (www.amigo.cz), male-oriented, operates an online version, and the gay-friendly English-language Prague Post (www. praguepost.com) has a helpful site with current news and a visitors guide. You may also want to visit these general sites: Prague Information Service, www.pis.cz; Czech Tourist Authority, www.czechcenter.com; Czech Republic’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.czech.cz; Czech Tourism Pages, www.czech- tourism.com; CzechSite, www.czechsite.com; and Hotels Czech, www.Hotels Czech.com. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 22

22 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague CITY LAYOUT Prague’s 1.3 million residents inhabit an area spread over 480 sq. km (300 sq. miles). The city is divided into 10 postal districts, from Praha 1 (Prague 1) to Praha 10 (Prague 10). You’ll often hear locals use these designations to describe the location of a place, so they are included with addresses in this chapter. Most of your travel will keep you within the boundaries of Praha 1, which embraces the ancient parts of the city on both sides of the Vltava River (the neighborhoods of Staré Mêsto and Malá Strana), and Praha 2, a relatively newer, more commercial area south and east of Old Town. You can easily cover this area on foot; however if you’re staying in the center of Prague you’ll find it best to reach some of the gay bars, concentrated in Praha 2 and Praha 3, by taking public transport or a cab. Dating from the early 13th century, Staré Mêsto (Old Town) is the historic heart of Prague, with Staromêstská námêstí (Old Town Square) its busy pulse point of activity. A bloodhound could get lost navigating the paths of Old Town, with its many shops and restaurants, intimate squares, and churches. It’s often best to just let go and follow your gut and the next road that looks interesting. Metro stops in this area are Staromêstská and M*stek. As it name suggests, Nove Mêsto (New Town) was developed a century later. Many of its 14th-century buildings were destroyed and replaced in the 19th century. Now this area is a busy construction site, with new hotels and office com- plexes going up. The area is known for Václavské námêstí (Wenceslas Square), not a square but a broad avenue with a statue of King Wenceslas on horseback, lined with grand 19th-century architecture and foaming with early-21st-century capitalism, Times Square–style neon and a bit of good old-fashioned seediness. You can get here via the Námêstí Republiky, M*stek, or Muzeum Metro stop. Another major institution and good landmark in this area is the National The- ater (Národní divaldo). In recent years, the neighborhood south of the theater has been hyped as “hot” (with the name “SoNa,” as in south of Národní), becoming populated with the sort of restaurants and clubs that make appealing profiles in glossy travel and fashion magazines. The city’s most charming area is Malá Strana (Lesser Town), the hilly region on one end of the Charles Bridge, spilling down from Prague Castle. Here you’ll find winding streets, hidden gardens, and the beautifully weathered red-tiled buildings painted in earthy golds, greens, and browns. Leading up to the castle, the steep main road, Nerudova, is lined with touristy shops, but you can easily spend a day wandering the side streets among interesting shops or a night hopping among hip bars and restaurants. The neighborhood, home to many of the country’s foreign embassies, rises up to Hradcany, the area immediately sur- rounding the castle. Other neighborhoods worth noting are Vinohrady, a 19th-century area of stately apartment buildings up the hill from the National Museum; its name

Tips Follow the Signs Getting around Prague and its narrow, winding cobblestone streets takes rather astute navigation. The city has tried to ease things a bit with brown directional signs on major tourist avenues. However, a good map will be your best friend. The Kartografie Praha (129Kc/$3.40) provides detailed neighborhood maps and a street index. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 23

PRAGUE ESSENTIALS 23

Tips Towns, Streets & Squares You should know that mêsto means “town,” ulice (abbreviated ul.) “street,” trída “avenue,” námêstí (abbreviated nám.) “square” or “plaza,” most “bridge,” and nábrezí “quay.” In Czech, none of these are capitalized. In addresses street numbers follow the street name (for instance, Václavské nám. 25).

comes from the days when it was home to the king’s vineyards. This part of Prague is increasingly becoming a fashionable area to live, with several gay bars and cafes. Farther east is the working-class area of Zizkov, a kind of East Village of Prague, with edgy rock clubs and a few gay and lesbian nightspots. While Prague has no concentrated gay area, many gay bars and clubs are scattered throughout these neighborhoods. GETTING AROUND Walking is the best way to see Prague, so make sure you pack comfortable shoes—and, be ready for a good workout negotiating the hills, steep staircases, and uneven cobblestone streets. When you want to speed things along or reach outlying parts of town, Prague’s public transit system is efficient and easy to use. Prague Public Transit (www.dp-praha.cz) operates the subway, tram, and bus system, and has information centers where you can pick up brochures and maps in main subway stations: Muzeum, M*stek, Andel, Nádrazí Holesovice, and Cerny Most. They are also available at the public transit information office in the arrival hall at the Rusyne Airport. Buy subway tickets from the yellow wall-mounted machines (which take coins only) near the entrance of most Metro stations, as well as at tobacco shops, newsstands, and anywhere you see the red and yellow “DP” sticker or yellow vending machine. If you’re lucky, you may find a transit agent in the Metro stations to help you with the ticket machine or even sell tickets directly if you have trouble. Tickets are valid for varying lengths of time and must be stamped in a vali- dation machine as you board the train, tram, or bus. Nontransfer tickets (8Kc/20¢) are valid for 15 minutes after marking on trams and buses (no trans- fers or rides on night trams or buses) and good for half an hour on the Metro and up to four stations (excluding the station of origin). From the time trans- fers (12Kc/30¢) are stamped, they can be used on the Metro, trams, and buses for 1 hour during the work day and for up to 90 minutes in the evening (8pm–5am) and on weekends and holidays. Note: Don’t forget to purchase an extra single use ticket for your luggage if you have more than a day pack with you. There are also some restrictions on what you can transport via public transit that most travelers probably need not be concerned about, including a restriction against the transport of items “that stink or look disgusting.” Go figure. A 24-hour pass is 70Kc ($3), a 3-day pass 200Kc ($7), a 7-day pass 250Kc ($9), and a 15-day pass 280Kc ($10). In addition, there’s the Prague Card allow- ing 3 days of free unlimited travel on city transport and much more (see above). Prague’s public transit operates on the honor system, but plainclothes inspec- tors regularly ask riders to see their tickets (they’ll identify themselves by showing a badge with a red and white circular logo on it). If you can’t produce a valid 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 24

24 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague

ticket for you and/or any luggage, be prepared to pay a fine of up to 800Kc ($28) for you and 200Kc ($7) for your luggage. BY METRO The Soviet-built subway is sleek and retro, its aluminum-walled stations in red, gold, blue, or silver. Recorded voices call out the stops, purring “Nam-esssss-tee Meeee-rooo”). The Metro runs from 5am to midnight daily along three lines with transfer stations connecting them: A (green), B (yellow), and C (red). If you’re out late and see people dashing toward the stations, chase after them; they know the night’s last train is about to leave. To keep yourself headed in the right direction, remember that v;stup means “exit” and prestup is a connection (to another line). Trains run roughly every 2 minutes during weekday rush hours and 4 to 10 minutes during off-peak times. BY TRAM In September 1875 Prague’s first tram, a horse-drawn version, opened for business on the streets of Malâ Strana. By 1891 electric cars began running, and the current cute red and white style have been running since 1952. Prague’s busy network runs daily 4:30 am to midnight. Beyond their retro charm, they often get you closer to your destination than other means of public transport. A convenient and popular route is the no. 22 tram, which goes from Národni Trída, by the National Theater, across the Vltava River, past the Malostranská Metro station, and within steps of Prague Castle. Pickpock- ets know this tram is filled with tourists, so keep an eye on your possessions. There are eight night routes, 51-58, that run every 30 minutes from half past midnight to 4:30am. BY TAXI Fares start at a regulated 25Kc (85¢), and go up a maximum of 17Kc (60¢) per kilometer. Waiting is a max 4Kc (15¢) per minute. These rates should be posted on the taxi door in the cab, and all customers should be able to request a receipt before paying. To avoid shady cab drivers (who definitely exist), it’s also best to rely on dispatched taxis and avoid cabstands in tourist zones. Locals put their faith in Taxi AAA (& 23311 3311) and Profi Taxi (& 26131 4151), both of which have English-speaking drivers and operate 24 hours a day. A chauffeur-driven Peugeot or VW Passat is available within Prague or from Prague to outer destinations from Autoline Praha, Kladenska 36, Praha 6 (& 2269 8568; www.chauffeur.cz). Prices within Prague are 960Kc ($32)per hour and 25Kc (80¢) per kilometer after 25km or 7,200Kc ($240) for 8 hours and 20Kc (70¢) per kilometer after 250km. Outside Prague prices are 32Kc ($1) per kilometer, one way, and 19Kc (57¢) per kilometer both ways, 9Kc (27¢)per minute of waiting over 20 minutes and for an overnight it’s 1,900Kc ($63). They say they also offer discounts individually based on the destination. BY CAR Don’t even think about driving in Prague. The streets are small and confusing, parking is also scarce and, even by Western standards, rather expensive. However, renting a car is a viable option if you plan to make some day trips outside Prague. Avis has an office at the airport (& 23536 2420; www.avis. com) or in town at Klimentska 46, Praha 2 (& 22185 1225); Hertz is at the airport (& 2201044340; www.hertz.com) and at Karlovo nám 28, Praha 2 (& 22223 1010); Budget is at the airport (& 231 65 214; www.budget.com); National is at the airport (& 22011 4554; www.nationalcar.com); and Thrifty is at the airport (& 22428 1053; www.thrifty.com). You’ll get a better deal if you arrange for the car rental before leaving home. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 25

Prague Metro

Cˇerny´ Most B Rajská zahrada

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Radlická Pankrác Butovice Transfer at ˇerov Nové Butovice Vltava Budeˇ jovická to Bus no. Kac Roztyly Chodov Opatov Háje 179 to airport C

FAST FACTS: Prague

AIDS Hot Line The CSAP AIDS Pomoc & Lighthouse at & 22481 4284 or 22481 0345; [email protected], offers resources and prevention information and a help line & 22481 0702. American Express The main office is on Wenceslas Square at Václavské nám. 56, Praha 1 (& 22422 7786; fax 22422 7708; Metro: Muzeum; exchange office open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–noon; travel office open May–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–6pm and Sat–Sun to 2pm, Oct–Apr Mon–Fri 9am–5pm and Sat to noon). For a lost or stolen card, call & 22280 0111. Currency Exchange One of the city’s most ubiquitous currency-exchange outlets, Chequepoint is also one of the most expensive, charging 9Kc (3¢) per 100Kc ($3.44), so look around for a better deal. American Express charges no commission, and anyone is welcome to change money there whether they’re cardholders or not (see above). Warning: Beware of free- lance operators; this is dangerous because you may wind up with coun- terfeit money and it’s illegal. Electricity 220–230 Volts/50Hz; round two-pins plugs are standard. Embassies & Consulates The U.S. Embassy is at Trzistê 15, about a block from Karmelitská, Praha 1 (& 25753 0663; www.usembassy.cz; Metro: 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 26

26 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague

Malostranská; Tram: 22; open Mon–Fri 8am–4:30pm, consular section 9am–noon). The Canadian Embassy is at Mickiewiczova 6, Praha 6 (& 27210 1800; Metro: Hradcanská; Tram: 22; open Mon–Fri 9am–noon). The British Embassy is at Thunovská 14, Praha 1 (& 25740 2111; Metro: Malostranská; Tram: 22; open Mon–Fri 9am–noon). Emergencies For an emergency in Prague, use any telephone to dial & 158 for state police, & 156 city police, & 150 for fire, and & 155 for ambulance. (You’ll find Prague police looking very tempting in baby-blue shirts, black combat boots, with billy clubs stashed at their waists.) Hospitals A foreigner’s clinic in Prague provides 24-hour emergency services with an English-speaking staff at Na Homolce Hospital, Roentgenova 2, Praha 5 (& 25727 1111; Tram: 2, 4, or 9). There is also Health Centre Prague, Vodickova 28, Praha 1 (& 22422 0040). The U.S. Embassy (& 25753 0663) can also provide a complete list of medical services. Internet More and more hotels are providing Western-style modem con- nections in their rooms and cybercafes are popping up everywhere. (See “Cybercafes,” later in this chapter.) Media The monthly Amigo (49Kc/$1.70), male oriented, has maps and listings and is primarily a vehicle for personal ads and escort services. It also contains some info on towns outside the capital. A handy guide to Prague is the English-language newspaper Prague Post (www.praguepost.com) (45Kc/$1.55). It comes out on Wednesdays and is sold at most newsstands and many hotels. The “Night and Day” section has reviews, articles, and listings of restaurants and cultural happen- ings and often includes items of interest to gays and lesbians. The weekly calendar is a good way to find an opera, concert, or film to attend. Down- town is a free weekly foldout with bilingual listings of films, theater, concerts, and nightclubs. Other local English-language publications worth perusing for local events are the Prague Business Journal and Think, an English-language expat glossy. A BBC World Service English-language radio broadcast is available on 101.1 FM. Telephone Public phones are usually found in Metro stations and on the street in bright yellow kiosks. Unless you understand or feel like decipher- ing a little Czech, it’s useful to know that you can select English (or French or German) on any public phone. Some phones operate exclusively with coins (calls are 4Kc/13¢ per minute), while others take only phone cards, which are a lot more convenient. Phone cards, with stored value that’s automatically deducted while you use the phone, are sold in amounts from 200Kc to 600Kc ($7–$21) at newsstands, tobacco shops, travel agencies, post offices, and hotels. Local directory assistance is & 1180. International directory information from within Prague is & 1181.To dial a Czech mobile phone number from abroad dial 420603 + number and from inside the Czech Republic dial 603 + number. Note: The Czech Republic is going through a massive overhaul of its telephone network and phone numbers can change without notice. Time Standard time is Greenwich Mean Time plus 1 hour, which is Eastern Standard Time plus 6 hours. Daylight savings time, which runs from the last weekend in March until the last weekend in October, is GMT plus 2 hours. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 27

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Tips Country & City Codes The country code for the Czech Republic is 42. The city code for Prague is 2. When calling Prague from elsewhere in the Czech Republic, dial 2 before the rest of the number. Within Prague, leave off the code and dial the main phone number. Note: As of press time a large phone number restructuring was in the works, so you may find some numbers listed have changed. Local directory information is & 1180.

2 Pillow Talk Where you stay in Prague depends on what you’re looking for: Do you prefer a plain room screaming with late-1970s Communist chic or a quaint hotel experience oozing late Middle Ages? Location is something else to consider. Roman- tic types will want to stick to Malá Strana, definitely the most atmospheric part of Prague. Here there are a number of small innlike hotels, some on the main route to the castle with views of Charles Bridge and others tucked away on back streets. A close second for ambience is Old Town, where there are quite a few small hotels offering rooms with beamed ceilings and antique-ish furnishings. A number of the large hotels are along Wenceslas Square, a convenient base for reaching most of the city’s attractions but rather seedy after-hours. Some of the newer hotels, including some convention-style places, are in other parts of New Town, especially near námêstí Republiky. Lodging can be surprisingly steep. And, for the most part, hotels aren’t quite up to Western standards for quality and service. Some fresh competition seems to be helping the situation, as older hotels are updated and refurbished and new luxury hotels are introduced by chains like Radisson/SAS and Four Seasons. An inexpensive alternative if you don’t need the amenities or anonymity of a commercial lodging, is taking a room in a private residence. Some Czechs open their homes to earn extra money, and you’ll often get a rather spacious private room or even your own apartment not far from the town center. Be sure to inquire about the proximity of public transit stops. Rooms can run as low as 330Kc to 540Kc ($11–$18) per night, with discounts for longer stays. You can book hotels through any of the Prague Tourist Information Cen- ters (see earlier) or the travel agency Cedok, with offices at the airport and at Na Príkopê 18 (& 22419 7111; fax 22224 6394; www.cedok.cz). Prague attracts a lot of visitors nearly year-round, so reserve as early as possible. Options for travelers seeking gay-only lodging are on the rise, but at the moment I have found only one I’d recommend. But just about wherever you stay, at least in the areas in this guide, you’ll find that Czechs are eager capital- ists and will at least keep their opinions to themselves if they have a problem with two men or women staying together. STARÉ MÊSTO (OLD TOWN) Casa Marcello This 13th-century convent dormitory, renovated and opened in 1995, is a tasteful retreat, named after its 17th-century owner and tucked away on a quiet cobbled square. Casa Marcello has an understated luxury, from soothing light reflected off white stucco walls to the warmth of Ori- ental rugs and antique pieces to the clean lines of hardwood and tile floors. The rooms are furnished in contemporary style, some with high ceilings and views 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 28

Prague Accommodations & Dining K or un zˇni ACCOMMODATIONS ov Veletr ny acˇní M ttanya Casa Marcello 17 U Pras ˇ tany ˇ as o C k h P e á sk M é Four Seasons Hotel Prague 20 r o d ila k DEJVICKÁ d k a s o y H s lo PodP kakas o s s r ˇ á n ve é ko r n n ov vé Grand Hotel Bohemia 24 s rák a e é k o H F é dy b hho mostu ila M u o a rˇezˇí Hotel Andante 44 r B ské náb m Buben m á dy ˇ Hotel Anna 52 o LETNÁ HOLESOVICE

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28 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 29

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30 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague

of the currently operational 1,000-year-old St. Agnes convent next door (a scene of several miracles and hangout of some Czech queens). There are a few suites and apartments that can accommodate four guests. The hotel’s restaurant is warm and cozy and there is a pleasant garden terrace where breakfast is served. Rásnovka 783, Praha 1. & 22231-0260. Fax 22231-3323. www.casa-marcello.cz. 32 units. 7,540Kc ($260) double; 8,410Kc ($290) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited parking 600Kc ($21) per day. Metro: Staromêstská. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; sauna; limited room service; massage. In room: TV, minibar. Four Seasons Hotel Prague You know a town has arrived on the world’s chic tour map when Four Seasons moves in. I’d give this one five stars, but our top is three. These lush and tastefully done eclectic digs have upped the ante for all Prague. This newest of Prague’s palaces is located on the Vltava, not far up from the Charles Bridge. It is decorated with French limestone, marble, and rich woods. The views riverside are outstanding and there are all the amenities here for the most demanding of visitors. You get plush extras such as nothing smaller than a king bed, oversized bath towels and CD players, all-wool blankets, and down pillows—unless you request nonallergenic foam. The service is efficient, professional, and pleasant; housekeeping shows up twice a day. The hotel’s Allegro Restaurant gets great marks for its modern Mediterranean cuisine and views of the river and Prague Castle and lovely terrace in good weather. Suites have up to four rooms with added amenities like DVD players. The 630 sq. m-plus (2,100 sq. ft.) Presidential Suite is fit for royalty with, among other wonders, a built-in plasma TV in the bathroom. Veleslavinova 2a, Praha 1. & 22142 7000. Fax 22142 6666. www.fourseasons.com/prague. 162 units. 7,105–14,065Kc ($245–$485) double; 18,850–104,110Kc ($650–$3,590) suite. AE, DC, MC, V.Valet parking. Metro: Staromêstská. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club, spa; 24-hr. concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe. Hotel Hoffmeister At the base of the old castle steps, about 270m (300 yards) from Prague Castle this small hotel is interesting and comfy, especially if you like it a bit avant-garde. It is also a gallery with portraits of some of the most important personalities of the first half of the 20th century. The owner’s father, Adolf Hoffmeister, was an artist who knew and drew the subjects of the portraits: Salvador Dalí, John Steinbeck, Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Virginia Woolf, and Bertolt Brecht, to name a few. The rooms are done in a classic 1920s Czech decor with tile mosaics, crystal chandeliers, and ornate upholstery and curtains. The upper floor honeymoon suite is the one really fit for a queen with a large Roman-style bathroom, dining room area, and an over-the-top ornate decor. Do be aware it’s on a very noisy corner. I also think it’s just a tad slim on amenities for the price. For you techies, note that the Internet connection here was consistently much slower than other parts of the city when I was visiting. Pod Bruskou 7, Praha 1 & 225101711. Fax 025101 7120. www.hoffmeister.cz. 41 units. 6,525Kc–8,990Kc ($225–$310) double; 7,975Kc–12,470Kc ($275–$430) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Garage parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; limited room service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, dataport, minibar, trouser press, safe. Hotel Inter-Continental Praha One of the consistent choices of visiting celebs and international jet-setters, the Inter-Continental is perched on the riverbank at the end of Parízská. In stark contrast to the centuries-old buildings all around, its Italian architect created it in a harsh modern style, set back behind a wide cement plaza (architecture you either love or hate). The service here is also crisp and professional, but a bit on the cold side. With city or river views, 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 31

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the rooms are well sized and refurbished in the last year, but the Italian marble bathrooms with a tub/shower are still on the slim side (unless you are in the presidential suite where you have the option of the full-body shower or whirlpool tub). The junior and executive suites are spacious and full of amenities, but I do think there are much more interesting places to stay in Prague— especially in this price range. Námêstí Curieov;ch 43/5, Praha 1. & 0224889966. Fax 0224881123. www.prague.interconti.com. 372 units. 12,020Kc ($415) double; from 15,254Kc ($526) suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.Valet parking 850Kc ($30). Metro: Staromêstská. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor pool; health club; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; laundry service; dry-cleaning; In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Hotel Paríz Value The Paríz was restored in 1997 to its full Art Nou- veau glory and is one of my favorites in Prague. Off one side of the elegant marble-floor lobby is the Sarah Bernhardt Restaurant and the Cafe de Paris, both among the grandest spaces in Prague. Reached via a cast-iron stairway or brass and glass elevators, and down wide halls with large white wooden doors, the rooms are spacious and furnished to match the 1920s feel, with pretty Art Nouveau stenciling. Some rooms have a nice view of Prague Castle and other historical monuments. The bathrooms are clean and bright, with heated floors and nice deep bathtub/shower combinations. The staff speaks English well and is accommodating and charming. They turn down your bed in the evenings and respond quickly to every need. A short walk from Old Town Square or upscale shops, the Paríz is one of your best choices to rest in tasteful luxury and feel pampered at a good value. U Obecního domu 1, Praha 1. & 800/888-4747 or 0222195195. Fax 0224225475. www.hotel-pariz.cz. 93 units. 8,700Kc–9,570Kc ($300–$330) double; 11,310Kc–43,500Kc ($390–$1,500) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Self- park 700Kc ($18) in nearby garage. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; exercise room; sauna; 24-hr. room service; massage; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe. Hotel U Zlateho Stromu Simple, clean, 13th century and English-friendly, U Zlateho Stromu (Golden Tree) is steps from the Charles Bridge, a few minutes from Old Town Square. The 19 doubles and two suites are well furnished with an armoire, a table, and chairs, and the loft ceilings and large windows give them a spacious feel. The bathrooms are tiled and have pedestal sinks and bath- tubs. Downstairs is an all-night (straight) disco with women go-go dancers. Karlova 6, Praha 1. & 22222 0441. Fax 22222 0441. www.zlatystrom.cz. 21 units. 2,784Kc–2,987Kc ($96–$103) double; 3,480Kc–5,133Kc ($120–$177) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: Staromêstská. Amenities: Restaurant, bar. In room: TV, minibar. U Zlaté Studny The Golden Well is another historic property, this one from the 16th century, and offers comfortable rooms at a lower price. This small hotel puts you in the city’s heart and offers lovely views along the Royal Road. The two rooms and six suites are comfortably sized and done in classic Czech fashion, with original wooden painted ceilings, hardwood floors covered by Ori- ental rugs, painted wooden ceilings, chandeliers, lace-draped windows (double- paned to muffle street sounds), and antiques. There’s a restaurant serving a Czech and international menu in the basement. Karlova 3, Praha 1. & 222220262. Fax 22222 0130. www.uzlatestudny.cz. 6 units. 4,500Kc ($125) double; 5,100Kc ($142)) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: Staromêstská. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, safe. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 32

32 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague NOVÉ MÊSTO (NEW TOWN) & VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁMÊSTÍ (WENCESLAS SQUARE) Hotel Andante Andante may mean leisurely, but the surroundings here are not, because you are right in the middle of the hubbub of Wenceslas Square. Romantics and history hounds book elsewhere because the rooms here aren’t full of antiques, lace, and 14th-century ceilings. They are, however, a bit more affordable, clean and comfortable. This modern hotel is located just a few steps from Wenceslas Square and about a 5-minute walk from the Metro. Ve Smeckach 4, Praha 1. & 22221 1616. Fax 22221 0591. www.andante.cz. 32 units. 2,987Kc–3,886Kc ($103–$134) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: A and C, Muzeum. Amenities: Restau- rant; bar; business center. In room: TV, minibar. Interhotel Ambassador/Zlatá Husa Two in one, the Ambassador and Zlatá Husa have been combined to form one of the larger hotels on Wenceslas Square. The front rooms have large windows letting in lots of light, high ceilings, sizable closets, and somewhat dated furniture. The well-sized marble bathrooms have whirlpool tubs and a shower stall. The rooms in back have an old-world feel updated for the 1990s with painted white furniture and water- colors of Prague. Václavské nám. 5–7, Praha 1. & 22419 3111. Fax 22422 6167. www.ambassador.cz. 162 units. 4,060Kc–8,120Kc ($140–$280) double; from 4,640Kc–9,280Kc ($160–$320) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 400Kc ($10). Metro: M*stek. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; concierge; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, safe. Renaissance Prague Hotel For queens who insist on the royal treat- ment, and want a large chain hotel to give them that U.S. kind of feel, the Renaissance supplies all the mod cons. The rooms are completely up-to-date, sharp, and clean with Scandinavian-style furniture. The hotel is in the heart of Prague’s commercial district, near Metro and tram lines and within easy walking distance of Old Town Square. V Celnici 7, Praha 1. & 800/468-3571 or 22182 1111. Fax 22182 2200. www.renaissancehotels.com. 314 units. 3,422Kc–5,365Kc ($118–$185) double; 8,555Kc–9,425Kc ($295–$325) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 570Kc ($20) with in/out privileges. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; indoor pool; exercise room; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; executive floor. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe. MALÁ STRANA (LESSER TOWN) Hotel U Cervené sklenice This small hotel (once the Hotel Sidi and once gay-owned but still courting same-sexers) is in a red-tile-roofed building above a restaurant of the same name on a cobblestone courtyard steps below Charles Bridge. The furnishings are functional and not going to win any design awards—white lacquer in one of the larger rooms. One generously sized room with a small bath looks onto the square and a smaller room offers a remarkable river view. The beds are typical Euro-twin, which you can push together for a larger bed. There’s no elevator, so the walk up to the rooms is a winding set of stairs. On the side of the building are marks noting the height the water reached during the previous two 100-year floods in 1784 and 1845. There will surely be a third mark added for the flood of 2002. Na Kampê 10, Praha 1. & 25753 2918. Fax 25753 1332. www.hotel-kampa.cz. 4 units. 2,900Kc–4,600Kc ($76–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. MC V.Metro: Malostranská. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, minibar. Hotel U Krále Karla This hotel is a 16th-century baroque house at the top of the steep road that leads to the castle. It has hardwood floors, antiques, and 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 33

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stained glass, and the rooms are arranged around an atrium hallway and decorated with old oil paintings and busts. There are Oriental rugs, large carved- wood beds, and restored Gothic ceilings. Recovering Catholics take note, you’ll have stained-glass saints peering into your room from the stained glass windows. The bathrooms are finished with marblelike floors, brass fixtures, and bidets. With fireplace and both tub and shower, the suites are worth the extra money. There can be a little bit of noisy late night foot traffic from local pubs so upper floors are a better bet for a decent night’s sleep. The service is adequate, but don’t expect anyone to really go out of his or her way for you. Úvoz 4 (at Nerudova), Praha 1. & 025753 1211 or 025753 2869. Fax 025753 3591. www.romantichotels.cz. 19 units. 4,500Kc–6,900Kc ($155–$238) double; 7,000Kc–7,900Kc ($241–$272) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited free parking. Tram: 22. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; secretarial services; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer. Hotel U Trí Pstros* At the centuries-old the Three Ostriches, it can be a bit like sleeping on the Charles Bridge—you’re right next to it. Some rooms offer views of the bridge’s statues, in addition to their own Renaissance-painted ceilings, Oriental rugs, and antique furnishings, but the bathrooms are a bit cramped. The suites have a few more amenities like safes and dataports and are more comfortable. Stories vary about how the house became connected with its patron animal (the ostrich trio featured on an outside mural): The hotel’s chosen stories are that a supplier of ostrich feathers lived in the building and that the plumes of this drag queen of an animal were once a gift here from a foreign delegation hosted while en route to see the emperor. Drazického nám. 12, Praha 1. & 25753 2410. Fax 25753 3217. www.utripstrosu.cz. 18 units. 5,900Kc– 7,900Kc ($203–$272) double; 7,000Kc–10,500Kc ($241–$362) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free parking. Metro: Malostranská. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; secretarial services; laundry service. In room: TV, minibar. Hotel Waldstein This small hotel is tucked in a corner of Waldenstein Square (Valstejnské námêstí) with only a hand-lettered sign above the door. It opened in 1998 in a reconstructed late-Renaissance building and has nine apartments with four beds each and four double rooms. You can walk easily to the Charles Bridge or Prague Castle and then retreat to this hideaway. Opening onto a small atrium, the rooms vary in size and layout and all have rustic tile work, 17th-century painted beam ceilings, and antique oak furniture. The manage- ment speaks English and gives the place a welcoming feel with fresh flowers. The hotel is often busy so book in advance—but they do have a less expensive 12- room annex nearby. Valdstejnské nám. 6, Praha 1. & 25753 1143. Fax 25155 5156. 15 units. 3,857Kc–6,293Kc ($133–$217) double. AE, MC, V. Limited parking 360Kc ($12). Metro: Malostranske nam. Tram: 12, 22. Amenities: Restau- rant. In room: TV, minibar. Na Kampê A hotel with personality, Na Kampê is below the Charles Bridge in an attractive square lined with benches and cafes. Its history dates from the 15th century when one of Prague’s first beers was brewed here. Plants brighten the windowsills, and the halls are decorated with prints from 1890s men’s fashion magazines, botanical prints, and film magazine covers. The building was restored in 1998 and each room is unique, and all are nicely furnished, some with leather club chairs, velvety settees, and wood-beam ceilings (in the attic-level rooms); about half have views of the river and the Charles Bridge, including a few with small balconies; try to book in advance since they’re also quieter than the front rooms. The garden terrace is a nice spot to relax. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 34

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Na Kampê 15, Praha 1. & 025753 1430. Fax 25753 3168. www.nakampe15.cz. 26 units. 4,000Kc–5,800Kc ($138–$200) double; 4,800Kc–7,200Kc ($166–$248) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 340Kc ($12). Metro: Malostranske nam. Tram: 12, 22. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, minibar, safe. Pension Dientzenhofer One of Prague’s charming spots is on a quiet lane near Kampa Park. While still over the $100-per-night mark, it’s one of the most affordable first-class pensions in town. This intimate 11-room pension is located in a building that dates from the 16th century and is named for the master baroque architect, Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was born here in 1681 and designed the Church of St. Nicholas that’s just a few blocks away. The rooms in this family-owned hotel are all unique in size and layout, but some are quite spacious. Most are furnished with Oriental rugs on the pine floors, stained-glass windows, chandeliers, and simple furniture. Nosticova 2, Praha 1. & 25731 1319. Fax 25732 0888. 11 units. 3,950Kc ($136) double; from 4,500Kc ($155) suite. Rates include breakfast. V. Parking 180Kc ($6). Metro: Malostranske nam. Tram: 12, 22. Amenities: Restaurant, bar. In room: TV, minibar. VINOHRADY Hotel Anna Value The Anna is about a 15-minute walk from Wenceslas Square and 90m (100 yards) uphill from the Metro station among 19th-century apartment buildings. A converted apartment, it’s a clean, basic hotel with a few nice touches, like stained glass in the stairway and tall French doors. The rooms have high ceilings, and the ones at street side get plenty of light and benefit from a few trees outside. The furnishings are spare: mattresses on the thin side, industrial- style carpeting, and round paper lanterns overhead. The bathrooms are new and clean, but not particularly roomy. Bring along a few candles and pick up some fresh flowers, and you can have a decent stay at a good price. Budeêská 17, Praha 2. & 222513111. Fax 022251 5158. www.hotel.cz/anna. 24 units. 3,100Kc ($107) double; 4,200Kc ($145) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited parking 200Kc ($7). Metro: Námêstí Míru. Amenities: Secretarial services. In room: TV. PRAHA 10 Ron’s Rainbow Guest House Fabulous! While Ron’s guesthouse is a bit off the beaten path, it is affordable, clean, bright, cheery, and gay—as is Ron. Ron is an American who moved to Prague and so he knows what Americans like and works hard to make his “babies” feel at home. He has a very helpful website on which you can make reservations and get information on travel in Prague and the gay scene. If you want the most privacy, rent out a suite, rather than an individual room. A good spot to stay if you rate personal attention over cushy atmosphere. Bulharska 4, Praha 10. & 27172 5664. www.gay-prague.com. 4 units. 1,595Kc–2,175Kc ($55–$75) double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Metro: Pavlova, Tram 4, 22, 23. Amenities: Laundry services. In room: TV, kitchenette.

3 Whet Your Appetite The main pleasure of eating out in a Prague restaurant is enjoying a table with a view of, say, Prague Castle in the sunset glow, or a romantic candlelit Gothic cellar or a charming cobblestone garden patio. Can all the theater overwhelm the food? Yes, it can. Prague has a bad rep for its culinary offerings that’s not undeserved, and you can certainly find a lot of mediocre meals. The restaurant scene is growing more varied and interesting, however, and a new generation of chefs seems to be expanding menus. In the past, Czechs generally didn’t have the means to eat out a lot and thus restauranteurs didn’t have the incentive to get adventurous. But with the arrival 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 35

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Tips A Dining Warning Be sure to check restaurant bills and credit card slips carefully, as some servers have been known to add an extra charge or even an extra digit to your total. If you pay with plastic, consider writing out the total in words on the credit-card bill, as you would on a check.

of visiting Westerners, more and more good restaurants are arriving on the scene. If you want to go native, try some Czech goulash, potato soup, and other pub basics and Czech restaurants are especially known for their wild game and freshwater fish dishes. Czech service is well known as an oxymoron with old-school waiters floating somewhere back in Communist-era indifference. Things are improving in this area, but patience is your friend and you may still have to send out a scout for your server if you want something after your initial meeting with them. Reser- vations are always a good idea, especially in the busy summer season. If you’re dining alone or with a small group and the restaurant is crowded, Czech custom is to ask if they can occupy the vacant chairs at your table, although this seems to be pretty rare these days. Note: For the locations of the restaurants below, see the “Prague Accommo- dations & Dining” map on p. 28–29. STARÉ MÊSTO (OLD TOWN) Bellevue (formerly Parnas) INTERNATIONAL In 1997, a well- loved restaurant named Parnas moved to the Bellevue from down the street while its home was being renovated. It wasn’t long before Parnas regulars real- ized the view of the castle was far better here. So Parnas became Bellevue for good. New owners have since reopened the old Parnas (see below). The Blue Moon Group (which runs other restaurants, like the Circle Line Brasserie) has put lots of energy into this menu of choice beef, nouvelle sauces, well-dressed fish, delicate pastas, and fabulous desserts. Several wild game choices are always available, like fried steak of boar in almond bread crumbs. For a tamer treat, there’s New Zealand lamb with rosemary and spinach leaves, or wild rice veggie paella. Desserts featured are crème brûlée, walnut tartlet with caramel sauce, or wild berries in port or cognac. The atmosphere is formal and elegant, and the service pleasant and timely. Smetanovo nábrezí 18, Praha 1. & 22422 7614 or 22422 9248. Reservations recommended. Main courses 260Kc–710Kc ($9–$25); fixed-price menus 790Kc–990Kc ($27–$34). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 5:30–11pm; brunch Sun 11am–3:30pm. Metro: Staromêstská. Country Life VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Granola-types can find a vegan or vegetarian meal at Country Life cafeteria in the middle of everything off Old Town Square. With a forest-green facade and rustic carved wood tables and benches, the place has an earthy feel, complemented by fresh items sold by the kilogram. You can make your own salad and select a prepared sandwich, warm and cold dishes like whole-wheat veggie pizza and lentils, fresh bread and rolls, and juices and soy milk. Next door is a Country Life grocery selling natural bath, skin-care, and food items. Melantrichova 15 (at Havelská), Praha 1. & 22421 3366. Main courses 30Kc–70Kc ($1–$2.50). No credit cards. Sun–Thurs 9am–8:30pm; Fri to 6pm. Metro: M*stek. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 36

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Kogo PIZZA/ITALIAN A touristy refueling spot, good if you need the old traveler’s pizza and pasta rations. It’s near the city’s main market and a few blocks from the Estates’ Theater. A skylit courtyard bridges two sides of the restaurant. On one side is a casual cafe and on the other a more fashionable room with orangey Tuscan coloring and faux star lights on the ceiling. There’s a large menu that, in addition to pastas and pizzas, has a variety of salads and some meat and fish entrees. The desserts are from an Italian bakery. Havelská 27 (at Melantrichova), Praha 1. & 22145 1259. Pizza 90Kc–130Kc ($3.10–$4.50); main courses 130Kc–390Kc ($4.50–$13). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Metro: M*stek. Le Café Colonial FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL Here you’ll find wicker and wrought-iron furniture and bursts of blues and reds and torchiers and colonial-inspired artwork on the walls. The chef has a menu of salads and main courses like sesame-crusted salmon, chicken curry with wild rice and buttered leeks, and rabbit filet with stewed spinach and potato gnocchi. The desserts include fruit tart of the day and flan with coconut and cardamom. The lounge can make a pleasant spot to wake up in the morning with big flaky croissants and café au lait—or to linger into the night over cocktails. There’s also a Sunday brunch. Siroká 6, Praha 1. & 22481 8322. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 215Kc–495Kc ($7–$17). AE, DC, V (minimum order of 1,000Kc/$34). Daily 10am–10pm. Metro: Staromêstská. Lotos VEGETARIAN A sanctuary for nonsmoking veg-heads located near Four Seasons, Lotos has a comfortable room with batik fabric draped overhead. They prepare fresh, flavorful veggie and vegan cuisine, with traditional Slavic dishes given a veggie spin. Try vegetable borscht and bean goulash. You can choose from half a dozen soups, like zucchini soup with smoked tofu, and salads, like red beets with apples and roasted sunflower seeds. You can also order Tempeh Bangkok (tempeh, vegetables, and coconut sauce with rice), Macrobi- otic Curry, a warm broccoli-filled strudel, or whole-grain veggie pizza. Platnérská 13, Praha 1. & 2232 2390. Main courses 59Kc–132Kc ($2–$5). MC,V.Daily 11am–10pm. Metro: Staromêstská. Modrá Zahrada PIZZA/ITALIAN Good pizza made with fresh ingredients in a wood oven at the “Blue Garden” can fill you with carbs after a long day of stair climbing. They have a thin crispy crust, more than a dozen themed choices, including katka (onions, garlic, peppers), quattro stagione (ham, mushrooms, oysters), el capo (ham, mushrooms, artichokes), el pokero (mozzarella, smoked cheese, edam, camembert), and vegetariana (tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers). The menu also offers a few salads and a mound of lasagna. Wine is sold by the glass and bottle. If it looks crowded, check for seats in the attractive brick cellar. Parízská 14 (entrance on Sioká), Praha 1. & 2232 7171. Pizza 80Kc–130Kc ($3–$5). No credit cards. Daily 11am–midnight. Metro: Staromêstská.

Tips Expensive Hors d’oeuvres! Some Czech restaurants put plates of nuts or olives on the table or offer platters of appetizers or aperitifs that appear to be compliments of the house. They’re not. If you partake, when the bill comes you may find you’ve paid about $5 for a bowl of stale cashews. Always ask first. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 37

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Parnas CZECH/INTERNATIONAL Graceful and glowing and accompanied by music from a grand piano, Parnas is a great spot to go if you’ve packed something lovely or dapper. (See the Bellevue entry, above, for the history of Parnas.) It sits along the river in a building where the composer Smetana once lived, and has a wall of windows that give you a fab view of Prague Castle and the rooftops of Malá Strana. You’ll find a 1930s interior done up with silver settings, elaborately folded napkins, Asian-motif murals inlaid with mother- of-pearl, and a mosaic titled The Absinthe Drinkers. Tuxedoed servers deliver your meal, which can include appetizers like turkey terrine with avocado-and- kiwi sauce and chive pancake stuffed with chicken breast and mushroom ragout. There’s a large assortment of fish and seafood like butter-roasted trout with mushrooms and potato croquettes. There are meat dishes of veal, beefsteak, and pork filet, and a few vegetarian options. Smetanovo nábrezí 2, Praha 1. & 22493 9604. Reservations recommended. Main courses 280Kc–1,120Kc ($9–$35). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 6pm–midnight. Metro: Národní Trída. Pravda INTERNATIONAL On one of the city’s ritziest streets, Pravda thrills taste buds and large windows offer fishbowl views from the white-on- white interior with a huge cut-glass chandelier and a sleek, black aproned staff. The menu keeps up with the looks and offers a continent-hopping array that starts in the Czech Republic with duck breast with honey-braised red cabbage and potato-spinach rolls and stops in Spain with seafood paella or Australia with lamb chops with cream-boiled kohlrabi. There are of course daily specials and a dessert list that includes tiramisu, carrot cake, and Indonesian pineapple/lemon- grass consommé with fresh fruit and coconut ice cream. If you want just the atmosphere without a full meal, there’s a bar area and a sidewalk cafe. The service is attentive, friendly and graceful. Parízská 17, Praha 1. & 2232 6203. Reservations recommended. Main courses 330Kc–670Kc ($12–$23). AE, DC, MC, V (only if over 500Kc). Daily 11:30am–1am. Metro: Staromêstská, Tram 17, 18. Restaurant Rybítrh SEAFOOD On a small square in the shadow of the T;n church is Rybítrh (“Fish Market”). Yes, seafood isn’t the first thing that comes to mind in a land-locked country, but Rybítrh has its daily catches dis- played on ice market style in the middle of the dining room. You can get your fish prepared to order, boiled or grilled, and with your choice of sauce. Beyond a dish of your own devising, seafood lovers have many other menu options, but I’ve been told to avoid all shellfish in Prague. Servers are sharply dressed and one step ahead of the customers. When the weather is good, get a courtyard table. T;nsk; dv*r, Praha 1. & 22489 5447. Reservations recommended. Main courses 200Kc–500Kc ($7–$17). MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Metro: Staromêstská. U Betlémské Kaple CZECH This a good spot for some real Czech food, if you want to go native. Next to the Betlémské Church, near the Charles Bridge is a restaurant with the same architecture, complete with dark hardwood benches and Czech specialties like sirloin of beef with cream, goulash, and typical Czech freshwater fish like carp, pike, and trout. Betlémské nám 2, Praha 1. & 22222 1639. Reservations recommended. Main courses 90Kc–210Kc ($3–$7). Daily 11am–10:45pm. No smoking. Metro: Národní Trída. Universal CZECH/FRENCH Near the National Theater, the Universal has mellow minimalist decor, subdued lighting and funky touches like a plaster elephant head. The restaurant attracts a mix of ages and types and is a place you 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 38

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go to read the paper and while away an afternoon or evening. For Prague, the service is attentive and friendly, and the arty staff and dance-music soundtrack give it the feel of a hip diner. The menu comes from the chef’s French back- ground with a few Czech influences. Look for nightly specials and a few appetizers, like spinach cream soup and beef carpaccio, and salads as starters or full meals, like a Thai salad with wild rice. For the main course, there’s beef goulash with dumplings and roasted pork shoulder with stewed sauerkraut. For dessert there’s the ever-popular tiramisu. There’s also a full bar and a wine list. V Jircháoich 6, Praha 1. & 22491 8182. Main courses 79Kc–295Kc ($2–$8). No credit cards. Daily 11:30am–1am. Metro: Národní Trída. Vinárna V Zátisí INTERNATIONAL This intimate restaurant is on one of the city’s most intimate squares, Betlémské námêstí. Softly lit rooms glow and oil paintings on the walls and white tablecloths get everyone from families to queers on dates to get into nice clothes and manners. Here you have starters like a Norwegian salmon tart and roast quail with fresh thyme and sautéed spinach, and entrees like roast rabbit with garlic and roast onion stuffed with mashed potatoes, Bohemian goose with sauerkraut and apples roasted with bacon, and grilled veal with shiitake sauce. You’ll also find homemade pasta dishes, a half dozen fresh fish offers, and a couple of vegetarian options. Deca- dent desserts include apple strudel with pear and walnut ice cream or crème brûlée with Becherovka. Liliová 1, Praha 1. & 22222 1155 or 22422 8977. Main courses 295Kc–695Kc ($8–$18). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 5:30–11pm. Metro: Národní Trída. NOVE MÊSTO (NEW TOWN) Jáma CZECH/AMERICAN/TEX-MEX A good spot to go if you’re feeling a bit lonely for that American suburban feel. Jáma is an American-owned Inter- net cafe, restaurant, and pub. It has pinball machines and rock posters of Bruce and Jimi and it would fit right into any U.S. college town. You probably don’t want to hang out nights with the straight crowd, but Jáma is particularly handy for a morning after with its hearty breakfasts of pancakes, homemade sausage, Belgian waffles, and such, served weekends 11am to 5pm. For lunch and dinner, you have things like onion soup, fried mushrooms, potatoes, smoked meat with lentils, and expatriate versions of tacos, burritos, and chicken kabobs with rice. Most things come with sides of croquettes or fries. V Jámê 7, Praha 1. & 22422 2383. Main courses 62Kc–229Kc ($2–$8). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–1am. Metro: Muzeum. La Perle de Prague FRENCH/SEAFOOD La Perle de Prague has the distinction of being ensconced on the top floor of the Dancing Building. The postmodern Frank Gehry/Vladimir Milunic–designed apartment structure is so named because it appears like two separate forms dancing together (for more on the building, see “Exploring Prague,” later in this chapter). The restaurant has a small number of tables that offer great views over the river. Appetizers include cognac flavored duck liver terrine and roasted prawn tails and red mullet filet on lettuce bed with saffron oil. Main courses span the horizon from sea bream on fennel seed bed, star anise, served with aniseed sauce to rack of lamb under herb crust, thyme and rosemary sauce, and sautéed potatoes. Desserts include nougat ice cream pyramid with red fruits and a mango glaze and a classic crème brûlée. Rasínovo nábrezí 80, Praha 2. & 22198 4160. Reservations recommended. Main courses 470Kc–700Kc ($16–$24). AE, MC, V. Mon 7pm–1am; Tues–Sat noon–1am. Metro: Karlovo Námêstí. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 39

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Tips Night Munching When the munchies hit during a late night, there are numerous conces- sion stands on Wenceslas Square with offerings of burgers, hot dogs, brats, and cold beer.

MALÁ STRANA (LESSER TOWN) Bar Bar CZECH/INTERNATIONAL A good place for crepes, Bar Bar is tucked below street level on a quiet lane near Kampa Park. It’s low-key and decorated with eclectic flea-market finds. The crepes are inspired by destinations like Mykonos (feta, tomato, onion, chiles), Paris (a three-cheese affair with apple, sour cream, cranberries), and Nancy (Amaretto, plum jam, whipped cream), plus several fruit-filled dessert crepes. You can also choose among open- face sandwiches, toasts, and grilled items on the menu. Vsehrdova 17, Praha 1. & 25731 2246. Main courses 39Kc–209Kc ($1–$7). MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Tram: 12 or 22. Bazaar Mediteranée MEDITERRANEAN/INTERNATIONAL Bazaar is a restaurant/nightclub of the trendy sort. The somewhat theatrical dining room is dark with arched brick ceilings, big mirrors, chandeliers, and candelabras. Quite a few stairs (just what you want after climbing them all day touring Prague) lit by votives lead to a rooftop terrace that has a fairly decent view of the city. After dark menu reading can be a challenge under the glow of votive candles, but that seems fitting since the atmosphere definitely upstages the food. The menu hints at Mediterranean cuisine, from octopus with cayenne pepper and olive oil to risotto with seafood to couscous a la Marrakech with lamb and vegetables, but don’t expect any wonders. There is often live music in the evenings and plenty of English speaking internationals to meet up with here and if you’re there at the right random moment, you’ll find some queers hanging out among the tourists and international business travelers. Nerudova 40, Praha 1. & 25753 5050. Reservations recommended. Main courses 99Kc–329Kc ($3–$11). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–1am (cafe 10am–9pm; bar 9pm–2am). Metro: Malostranská. Bohemia Bagel DELI This cleverly named restaurant and Internet cafe was started by an American and is headed for expansion in Eastern Europe. It’s a place to pick up a bagel sandwich or a wrap, check your e-mail, and then take the funicular to the mini–Eiffel Tower on Petrín Hill. You can choose from more than a dozen varieties of fresh bagels, and specialty sandwiches include the turkey club, Reuben, and roasted veggie salad. There is also a location at Masná 2, Praha 1, & 224812560. Újezd 16, Praha 1. & 25731 0694. www.bohemiabagel.cz. Bagels and sandwiches 80Kc–125Kc ($2.50–$4.90). No credit cards. Mon–Fri 7am–midnight; Sat–Sun 8am–midnight. Tram: 12 or 22. Circle Line Brasserie FRENCH/CONTINENTAL Circle Line is hidden below ground in a 500-year-old palace and is cheerfully colored with a sophisticated crowd dining to the quiet sound of a live pianist. You can order from a broad menu strong on seafood, but still quite diverse. Appetizers include duck breast carpaccio with hazelnut oil and Parmesan shavings, salmon tartare with dill, a light caper cream and “Blinis” pancakes, and Czech potato soup with forest mushrooms. Main courses range from filet of sole with asparagus heads and “Bordolaise” sauce to roast lamb sirloin with thyme blossom and vegetable 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 40

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“Tian” and rabbit roasted with garlic, served with spatzle and herbs. For dessert, there’s crêpes Suzette, sorbet, and a selection of the day. Malostranské nám. 12, Praha 1. & 25753 0021. Reservations recommended. Main courses 395Kc–1375Kc ($14–$47). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–11pm. Metro: Malostranská. Tram: 11 or 22. Kampa Park CONTINENTAL A spot for serious foodies and romantics. After dark, you approach Kampa Park along a torchlit path south of Charles Bridge. By light of day you have a patio view of the Vltava River and all the city’s towers and spires. The restaurant is casual chic and popular with visiting digni- taries and celebrities. Servers are all business and do their jobs well. Appetizers are all interesting, from the seared scallops with pumpkin purée and nut sauce to creamy king crab salad with cucumber jelly and salmon roe. The entrees range from oven-baked pompano and pumpkin ravioli with walnuts, chanterelles, zucchini, and spicy lobster broth to seared venison with sweet potato purée, shiitake mushrooms, orange-glazed carrots, and cardamom sauce. To finish with dessert, there’s the smoked chocolate mousse with honey-sesame ice cream and walnuts or tiramisu served with two chocolate sauces and blueberries. Na Kampê 8B, Praha 1. & 25753 2685. Reservations recommended. Main courses 255Kc–675Kc ($9–$23). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am. Metro: Malostranská. Pálffy Palác FRENCH/CONTINENTAL Pálffy Palác is hidden on a picturesque lane with old street lanterns, up the stairs of a music conservatory and through a couple of grand doors. Inside you’ll find a candlelit ballroom of an early-18th-century mansion, a marble fireplace, family portraits, gilt-framed mirrors, and about a dozen tables. Orchids and lilies on the tabletops, linen and silver add to the atmosphere. The owner is a young gay restaurateur who’s also behind Cafe Érra and Mecca, and you’ll find same-sex couples mixed in among tourists, film crews, and Czech families. There are salads of shrimp, avocado, and grapefruit, and endive, pear, and goat cheese. There are appetizers of baby asparagus cream soup with curried buttered toast and deer ham with fresh oranges and cranberry mousse. Entrees range from marinated beefsteak with roasted forest mushrooms and salmon steak stuffed with lemon sole filets and Dublin bay prawns baked en papillote. A vegetarian can choose from a couple of selections such as baked fennel with fresh spinach leaves served with nut sauce. Finish things off with a choice of three types of mousse, tiramisu, or a pear poached in red wine, crusted in almonds, and served with vanilla sauce. There’s a wide-rang- ing list of wines from Bohemia to South Africa to France and Spain. Valdstejnská 14, Praha 1. & 25753 0522. www.czechreality.cz/palffy. Reservations recommended. Main courses 270Kc–480Kc ($9–$17). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Metro: Malostranská. VINOHRADY Radost FX Cafe VEGETARIAN Radost is a one-stop shop for hip Prague and it’s a great late-night bite for postclubbers. You can start the day with the popular “American brunch,” check out the art in the gallery, browse CDs in the record shop, eat dinner in the vegetarian cafe, dance in the basement nightclub with stainless steel walls and leopard upholstery, and then snack on a very late- night bite and groove on the light filtering through 12,000 broken beer bottles. It’s eclectic, never dull, a social center for the expat community and draws a cool Czech crowd—and no doubt your gaydar will be going. The menu has everything from pizzas to a pesto potato topped with spinach pesto, mushrooms, and cheese, salads, and tempting desserts. There’s a full bar and Sunday nights feature a special Italian menu with seafood and Thursdays you’ll get soul and funk music. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 41

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Bê lehradská 120, Praha 2. & 022425 4776. www.radostfx.cz. Main courses 100Kc–210Kc ($2.60–$6). No credit cards. Sun–Tues 11am–2am; Wed–Sat to 5am. Metro: I.P. Pavlova. CAFE CULTURE Gay Prague comes out at Café Érra, Konviktská 11, off of Betlemské námêstí, Praha 1 (& 22222 0568; Metro: Národní Trída; open daily 10am–midnight). This intimate gay-owned spot has plenty of sex appeal—and is a place you can make your little hangout while in Prague (it takes some perseverance to find, but don’t give up). The walls and furnishings are bold blue, yellow, and orange. Patrons range from clearly gay to curiously ambiguous and the food is substan- tial enough to make a decent meal. The salads are generous and tasty, like the mango with pistachios. There’s a weekend brunch and Érra also has a darker downstairs lounge. The second-floor Café Louvre, Národní Trída 20, Praha 1 (& 22493 0912; Metro: Národní Trída; open Mon–Fri 8am–11:30pm and Sat–Sun 9am–11:30pm), enjoys favor with some gays and lesbians in Prague, including vegetarians, who’ve found it a comfy spot since the 1990s, when the (now- defunct) gay nightclub Riviera was downstairs. The cafe dates from 1902, but was closed by the Communists in 1948. Windows look onto the bustle of Národní, pastel hues abound and the big, bright cafe functions as everything from breakfast hangout to full-service restaurant to billiard hall (5 antique pool tables). There’s a no-smoking room and some cute turtle mascots. In the land of Kafka, the Franz Kafka Café (Sirok 12, Praha 1; & 2231 8945; Metro: Staromestská; Tram: 17, 18; daily 10am–10pm.) is an inevitabil- ity. This old-world coffeehouse, located in the Jewish Quarter, has dark wooden booths, old engravings and, of course, plenty of Kafka portraits. You’ll also find cheap snacks, rough red wine, decent coffees and a few street side tables to hang at and people watch or muse on, well, Kafka of course. A focal point for Czech intellectual life for more than a century, Kavárna Slavia, Smetanovo nábrezí 2, at Národni, Praha 1 (& 22422 0957; Metro: Národní Trída; open daily 9am–midnight), was overhauled and reopened in 1997. It’s got an unbeatable location on the Vltava across from the National Theater and is great for a pre- or post-theater snack or a rest stop to take in the sun setting over Prague Castle. Inside, the cafe is large and airy, with a clean, updated deco look. The often beautiful servers (men and women) glide about in crisp white shirts, black ties, and white aprons. The beverage list has all the coffee drinks you’d expect, plus a simple menu of cold and warm dishes, like salami with pickled peppers and gherkins, veal paprika with sour cream, toasted sandwiches, and fresh salads. Expect a tempting array of desserts. Kavárna u sv Jakuba (St. Jacob), Malá Stupartská 5, Praha 1 (& 022482 8049; Metro: Staromêstská; open Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am–8pm) is a nice stop, on a side street next to the St. James Church and near Old Town Square. You can enjoy a quiet morning or early evening with indoor and outdoor seating, bakery treats, breakfast food from muesli to baked toast with smoked cheese, salami, lettuce and mayonnaise. You can also get deli sandwiches and salads and there is a wide range of coffee drinks, and everything from liqueurs to wines to cognacs and beers. They don’t take credit cards. A change from trendy cafes is the tearoom at the landmark Hotel Evropa, Václavské nám. 25, Praha 1 (& 22422 8117; Metro: M*stek; open daily 7am–midnight). It’s a frozen-in-Art-Nouveau spot with double-high ceilings, chandeliers, and marble-top tables. On a lazy Sunday afternoon, you can watch the wares of the sidewalk crystal merchants sparkle in the afternoon sun. In the 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 42

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old days, this was a Sunday-afternoon rendezvous point for gays, but it seems to have lost that role with the flourishing of other gathering places. There can be a small admission fee in late afternoon. Another historic setting is Kavárna Obecní d*m, in the Municipal House, Námêstí Republiky 5, Praha 1 (& 22200 2763; Metro: Námêstí Republiky), a large and interesting cafe in Prague’s magnificently restored concert and cultural hall. You can order a variety of open-face sandwiches, fish specialties, salads, and cheeses to snack on and sit at a street-side table to people watch. There’s triangles everywhere (literally painted on the walls) and not much English at Kavárna Velryba, Opatovická 24, Praha 1 (& 22491 2484; Metro: Národní Trída; open Mon–Fri 1pm–1am, Sat–Sun 5pm–1am; restaurant 11am–2am, Mon–Fri). “The Whale” has been a popular hangout for students, actors, and other intense types since the Velvet Revolution. It’s got a smoky backroom and a semisubterranean upper floor where you can sometimes get a whiff of, dare I say, herb. With a large round mirror hanging over the bar and graffiti on some of the walls, this garden-level space is a cloud of conversation and cigarette smoke with a few queers thrown into the mix. The beer is cheap, and there’s a large menu (available in English) with pork cutlets, fried chicken steak, pasta, lentils with sausage, and some vegetarian dishes and salads. In the Vinohrady neighborhood, not far from gay bars like Stella and Gejzeer, the lesbian-owned Kavárna Meduza, Belgicka 19 (& 20225 15107; Metro: Námêstí Míru; open Mon–Fri 11am–1am and Sat–Sun noon–1am), has nos- talgic decor of old paintings, sturdy old wooden furniture and big, cheap cap- puccinos. It’s the kind of place that draws students and here you’ll get whiffs of Kafka-like angst. CYBERCAFES It’s nearly impossible not to find a cybercafe in Prague. For a bagel and a smear with your e-mail, head to Bohemia Bagel, www.bohemiabagel.cz, with two locations: Masnâ 2, Praha 1 (& 22481 2560; Metro: Revolucni Station, Tram: 5, 4, 26), and Ûjezd 16, Praha 1 (& 25731 0694; Tram 6, 9, 12, 22; open Mon–Fri 7am–mindnight and Sat–Sun (and holidays) 8am–4pm). Computer time is an affordable 50Kc ($1.75) per hour and they are American friendly with fast connects, plenty of terminals, bottomless coffee and soda, and a nonsmoking area. There are, of course, bagels of all sorts and wrap sandwiches and drinks. Cafe Spika Dlâzdenâ 4, Praha 1 (& 22421 1521; http://netcafe.spika.cz/en), open daily 8am to midnight, has a comfortable interior and is English friendly with plenty of computers, and charges 20Kc (70¢) for 15 minutes. Techno-chic Terminal Bar, Soukenická 6, half a block east of Revolucní, Praha 1 (& 22187 1115; www.terminal.cz; Metro: Námêstí Republiky; open daily 11am–1am), is a place to do some cruising, cyber and otherwise. It’s a hub of Prague youth/expat culture, terminally hip, and full of attractive locals and globe-trot- ters. There are a couple of computer rooms and hookups for your laptop as well as a variety of other distractions: a bar up front, a solarium cafe, a bookstore, and a video screening room. Computer time for nonmembers is 1.5Kc (5¢) per minute weekdays and 7Kc (25¢) weekends. For a businesslike and modern sterile feel there’s Cybeteria, Stêpánská 18, off Václavské námêstí, Praha 1 (& 22423 3024; www.cybeteria.cz; Metro: M*stek; open Mon–Fri 10am–8pm Sat noon–6pm). There’s a bar with drinks and cold snacks and a quiet low-lit computer room with 10 terminals. Computer time is 50Kc ($1.75) per 30 minutes. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 43

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Just below Prague Castle, in a 600 year old building, is Internet Café U Zlate ruze, Thunovska 21, Praha 1 (& 2537 7004; www.internetpoint.cz; Metro: Hradcanská; Tram: 22, 23; open daily 10am–7pm). There’s no minimum and they charge a cheap 35Kc ($1.20) per hour. You can also find a fairly up to date list at the search site www.netcafe guide.com.

4 Exploring Prague The smartest way to see Prague is to start walking and let yourself get lost. (And whether or not that’s your intention, you will.) But if you prefer a little orientation and guidance, there are plenty of tour operators who’ll lead you by the hand. If you want a well-done, professional gay (or straight) tour you can call Rain- bow Travel (& 22091 0855; www.rainbowtravel.cz). Owner Karel Rysán is a young gay entrepreneur who (along with a few other drivers) leads guided excursions in a private car. You can join day or night tours of Prague or go to destinations outside the city, like Cesk; Krumlov, Karlstejn Castle, and Konopistê Chateau or set up private custom excursions. Standard prices for tours of two to three people run about 2,870–6,650Kc ($99 to $229) per per- son. Rysán, who speaks excellent English and has an easy sense of humor, is will- ing to organize custom tours, book guests into hotels, pick up visitors at the airport, and assist with a wide variety of traveler needs and wants. In a walking city, it makes sense to go on foot: Daily Walks of Prague, Na Florenci 20, Praha 1 (& 28191 7642; www.walks.cz). They provide 11 different specialized walks to choose from, such as “Prague Explorer,” “Franz Kafka,” and “Mysterious Prague.” Tours are 300Kc ($10), last 1 to 2 hours, and are led primarily in English; no reservations are necessary. There are plenty of sightseeing options by bus and boat. Martin Tour (& 22421 2473, or 22423 9752 for reservations; www.martintour.cz) has sightseeing tours by bus and boat of historic sections of Prague, as well as outlying areas like the concentration camp of Terezín, the spa town of Karlovy Vary, Karl- stejn Castle, and Konopistê Chateau. It operates kiosks at Václavské námêstí, Melantrichova, Parízska, Na Príkopê, and námêstí Republiky. Tour times range from about 1 hour to 10 hours, and cost 250Kc to 1,900Kc ($9–$66). Premiant City Tour, Na Príkopê 23 and Národní 40 (& 29624 6070; www.premiant.cz; Metro: M*stek), offers more than a dozen tours of Prague and outlying attractions, including historic towns like Kutná Hora and Cesk; Krumlov and a tour by boat and bus of Prague by night. Tours run 220Kc to 1,790Kc ($8–$62). P.A.T.H. Finders International, Na Homoli 5, Praha 4 (& 24440 0472; www. pathfinders.cz), offers various tours in the Czech Republic including help in locating relatives, bicycling tours in Southern Moravia and hiking in the Sumava National Park.

Tips Beware the Hand in Your Pocket Prague has developed a reputation as being thick with thieves who’ll do their best to separate you from your valuables. So follow common sense and keep your things guarded, especially in tourist-heavy districts. Be especially cautious on tram no. 22, a popular line with tourists and the bands of pickpockets who prey on them. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 44

Prague Attractions K or un zˇni Alphonse Mucha Museum 31 ov Veletr ny acˇní M ttanya U Pras ˇ tany Cathedral of St. Nicholas 22 ˇ as o C k h P e á sk M é r o d ila k DEJVICKÁ d k a s o y H s lo PodP kakas o s Charles Bridge 20 s r ˇ á n ve é ko r n n ov vé s rák a e é k o H F é dy b hho mostu ila M u Estates’ Theater 27 o a rˇezˇí r B ské náb m Buben m á dy ˇ Fred and Ginger Building 34 o LETNÁ HOLESOVICE

Garden on the Ramparts 8 HRADCˇ ANSKÁ M BadenihoB a ˇe s t d o r s e a Golden Lane 2 J o n t. i m h kp rˇezˇí o náb v Havel’s Market 26 ˚ u

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e l Jewish Museum of Prague 21 m é ˇes r kkovov e H ákovéá n m dy Hor Be o ila a s MiladyM Hor d u r ˚ Kampa Park 13 va t Ed v ezˇí CHOTKOVY brˇ. nábrˇ dby ná anské Kinsk´y Palace 24 skské hradbyhra SADY Roh ariá C ˇ MariMMariásk e rˇezˇí L. Svobody JelenJJeleníelení 1 m c náb Lennon Wall 12 o h u U Brusnice s ˚ u t v isˇk tská 2 nt en B ChotkovaCh Fra Klim r ˇ otkov a Letná Park 16 u HRADCHRADCAANYNY a N a s v n 3 4 . milosrdny´ch a

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46 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague THE HITS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS Alphonse Mucha Museum (Muzeum Alfons Muchy) A good stop, particularly for anyone who loves women, is one of Prague’s newest museums, which celebrates the work of pioneering Art Nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha (known for the theatrical posters he created for dramatic French diva Sarah Bernhardt and images that depict women as goddesses and warriors). Perhaps you remember the sinuous goddess of Job rolling papers. Alfonso and Sarah were buddies and held séances to delve beyond the veil. His work evokes the message that the universe is benevolent, life is good, and we all have the ability to live happy, fulfilled lives. On display are some of Mucha’s decorative panels, posters, paintings, designs for Czech banknotes, manuscripts, personal effects, and stu- dio photos (including one of a pantless harmonica-playing Paul Gauguin). A half-hour video provides an overview of Mucha’s life and the museum is a good introduction to other Mucha sites in town, including examples of his work at the Municipal House and St. Vitus Cathedral. Panská 7 (at Jindrisská), Praha 1. & 22145 1333 or 22421 6415. www.mucha.cz. Admission 120Kc ($4). Daily 10am–6pm. Metro: M*stek. Cathedral of St. Nicholas (Chrám sv. Mikuláse) This church, dedicated to our inspiration for Santa Claus, is one of the best examples of the high baroque north of the Alps. Designer K. I. Dienzenhofer’s 1711 design was augmented by his son Krystof’s 78m-high (260-ft.) dome, which dominates the Malá Strana skyline and was completed in 1752. While smog is hard on the exterior, renova- tions have been underway to clean it up, and its gilded interior is stunning and full of high drama, from the towering figures of mitered saints and bishops to marble-veneered columns and trompe l’oeil frescoes. Be sure to check out the pipe organ, piled high with angles and instrument-playing cherubs. A balcony is used as exhibit space and offers a good perch for getting a closer look at some of the decor; you can climb the tower for an additional charge. Malostranské nám., Praha 1. & 2536 983. Admission 45Kc ($1.15). Daily 9am–4:45pm; English-language service Sun 11am. Metro: Malostranská. Charles Bridge (Karl*v most) Built in the 14th century by Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, Prague’s 510m-long (1,700-ft.) pedestrian bridge, with its colonnade of 30 saints, has a carnival atmosphere by day with artists and buskers taking their places along the stream of tourists, and a veil of mystery and romance by night with shadows and spirits of ancients floating over the Vltava River. Human traffic is heavy and only Barbra Streisand (who shut it off in the 1980s while filming Yentl ) and the 2002 flood have man- aged to stop the flow. Walk the bridge soon after stowing your luggage and return daily—early morning, dusk, in the middle of the night. The mood, the energy, and the shadows are always different on the most famous of the 15 bridges crossing the river Vltava. Connecting Staré Mêsto (Old Town) to Malá Strana (Lesser Town) and Prague Castle, Praha 1. Metro: Staromêstská or Malostranská. Fred and Ginger Building (Rasín Embankment Building) A cartoonish creation of California architect Frank Gehry and Croatian-born architect Vladimir Milunic, with curving steel, glass, and concrete set beside the Vltava, has taken its place so well on the Prague streetscape you’ll find it surprising that it’s one of the few contemporary things around. Named for the way the two elements of the building seem to be caught up in a tango, the eight-story “Dancing 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 47

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Building” (“Lanasky dum”) houses a bar at its base and a much-lauded French restaurant at its tippy top (see La Perle de Prague in “Whet Your Appetite,” earlier in this chapter). The staggered design of the windows gives the structure motion when seen from afar—check it out from the other side of the river. It was built in 1996 for a Dutch insurance company amid a row of Art Nouveau–style apartments. Rasínovo nábrezí (at Resslova), Praha 2. Metro: Karlovo Námêstí. Jewish Museum of Prague Most of Prague’s architectural legacies sur- vived World War II, but many of its inhabitants didn’t. The city was home to one of Europe’s oldest Jewish communities, and the Holocaust devastated the old Jewish ghetto, which had already lost much of its history to urban renewal early in the 20th century. Today the remaining Jewish neighborhood of Josefov, north of Old Town Square, preserves the story of these people in the cluster of seven synagogues that form the Jewish Museum of Prague. Among them are one of Europe’s oldest synagogues, the Old-New Synagogue, a 13th-century Gothic building where services are still held, and the Pinkas Synagogue, which was built in the 1530s and today is a Holocaust memorial bearing the names of the 80,000 people and 153 communities wiped out by the Nazis. The Maisel Syn- agogue is dedicated as an exhibit space to the history of the Jewish people in Moravia and Bohemia; it contains numerous artifacts, especially silverware used in religious services. Recently refurbished is the Spanish Synagogue, with exhibits on more contemporary Jewish history in Prague. To deepen your sense of the community’s history, walk through the Old Jewish Cemetery, an eerily calm place crammed with tilting Hebrew-inscribed gravestones stretching from the 15th century. At the ticket office, you can buy tickets to individual synagogues or a combination pass to all of them, including the cemetery. Ticket office at U Starého hrbitova 3a, Praha 1. & 22481 9456 or 22231 7191. www.jewishmuseum.cz. Admission 480Kc ($17) for all 7 attractions. Apr–Oct Sun–Fri 9am–6pm (Nov–Mar to 4:30pm); closed Jewish holidays. Metro: Staromêstská. 2–3 tours in English are given daily; call for schedule. Kinsk; Palace (Palác Kinsk;ch) The recently renovated rococo Kinsk; Palace dates from the second half of the 18th century and is the birthplace of the first Nobel Peace Prize winner Bertha von Suttner-Kinsky. Franz Kafka went to school here and it currently houses graphic works from the National Gallery collection, including pieces by Braque, Derain, and other modern masters. Picasso’s 1907 Self-portrait is here and has virtually been adopted as the National Gallery’s logo. International exhibits have included Max Ernst and Rembrandt retrospectives. Staromêstské nám. 12, Praha 1. & 22481 0758. Admission 30Kc (80¢). Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Metro: Staromêstská. Lennon Wall Music can move a world as you can see at this grooviest of walls in a quiet square near the Charles Bridge, across from the French Embassy on a path to Kampa Park. John Lennon’s ideals of peace helped inspire the Velvet

Tips Take a Tram For a good orientation to the city, take tram no. 22 from Prague Castle down the hill through Malá Strana, across the river, and past the National Theater to Wenceslas Square. However, beware pickpockets! 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 48

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Revolution that led to the fall of Communism from the former Czechoslovakia. Soon after John Lennon’s 1980 assassination, Prague mourners risked imprison- ment to spray-paint a huge image of the peacenik poster child on a Malá Strana garden wall, and it became a rallying place for antigovernment sloganeering. Over the years, the wall has been decorated with pro-Democracy and other slogans (“Make Love, Stop NATO, Not War,” “Italians Do It Better,” “Mickey Mouse Is Death”), despite the government’s attempts to keep it whitewashed. Lennon’s image was slowly being chipped away by weather and souvenir hounds but was restored in late 1998. Velkoprevorské námêstí, Praha 1. Tram: 12 or 22.

Memorial to the Velvet Revolution Finds Small and easily overlooked is a simple memorial to uprising that began in Prague and led to the dissolution of the Communist system in what was then Czechoslovakia. Look on the south side of the street for a group of bronze hands commemorating the place where student protesters clashed with police on November 17, 1989 and set off 3 weeks of dramatic events that led to free elections and playwright Václav Havel’s election as President. Near Nárdoní trída 20 (at Mikulandská). Metro: Nárdoní trída. Municipal House (Obecní d*m) All the top Czech artists at the turn of the 20th century contributed to this cupola-topped Art Nouveau showplace. When it opened in 1912, it was intended to be a social center to rival those of the country’s German institutions and it was one of the most eagerly awaited restoration projects in postrevolutionary Prague. The rich and detailed complex now contains several grand restaurants and cafes on the ground floor and the lower level, as well as the Cultural and Information Center (see “Visitor Infor- mation,” earlier in this chapter). There’s Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and lovely murals of music, dance, poetry, and drama and a series of smaller jewel box salons, lecture halls, and meeting rooms. You can wander the ground and first floors for free, but must take a guided tour to view the rest of the building. Even if you have to suffer through a tour with a guide, it’s worth it to spend a few minutes in the Mayor’s Salon, a showcase for the murals, glasswork, and curtains by Alphonse Mucha. From the balcony you might enjoy a peek at the backsides of some statues atop the building’s entrance. There are also gilded and nubile lovelies at almost every turn. Námêstí Republiky 5. & 22200 2101. www.obecni-dum.cz. Daily 10am–6pm (call for tour schedule). Tours 150Kc ($5). Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Prague Castle (Prazsk; Hrad) Glowing on the horizon like a surreal fairy tale come to life sits Prague Castle, the seat of Czech power for 10 centuries. You can imagine peasants looking up at it and marveling at the mysteries it held, and all those lovely femme damsels and manly men on horseback that have inhabited it over the years. The “castle” is actually a huge, architecturally rich, work-in-progress complex of dozens of palaces, churches, galleries, monuments, and gardens. You know how it is when you start those home improve- ments; you just don’t know where to stop! Construction continued until 1929. The signature Gothic towers are part of St. Vitus Cathedral (Chrám sv. Víta), named for a wealthy 4th-century Sicilian martyr and begun in 1344. There’s much to explore, from the basement crypt containing the tombs of Bohemian kings and archbishops, including Charles IV, to the south tower with its sweep- ing views. There’s the finest of the 21 chapels, the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 49

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encrusted with hundreds of pieces of jasper and amethyst and decorated with paintings from the 14th to the 16th century, or the wonderful stained-glass win- dow designed by Alphonse Mucha. The Royal Palace (Královsk; palác), in the third courtyard of the castle grounds, served as the residence of kings between the 10th and the 17th centuries. Vaulted Vladislav Hall, the interior’s centerpiece, was used for corona- tions and special occasions. Václav Havel was inaugurated president here. The adjacent Diet was where the king met with advisers and where the supreme court was held. St. George’s Basilica (Kostel sv. Jirí), adjacent to the Royal Palace, is Prague’s oldest Romanesque structure, from the 10th century. It was 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 50

50 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague

Moments Points of View

Prague keeps your eyes focusing and your neck craning up, back and around at beautiful things—animal, human, and mineral. You can spend days wandering and gazing on the city from an array of vantage points. At twilight, there’s a nice view from up on Nerudova, the steep climbing path to Prague Castle. Here you can look back down across the greensward of Petrín Hill and over the city, as everything slips into darkness. Pick from an array of spires and domes to ascend. The best observa- tion points are: the 42m (140-ft.) tall Powder Tower (Prasná brána), the 500-year-old Gothic fortification that’s the only preserved tower from the former city walls (Metro: Námêstí Republiky); the south tower of St. Vitus Cathedral at the castle, with a 287-step narrow and dizzying ascent to a breathtaking view, as everyone catches their breath. (Metro: Hradcanská; Tram: 22); the Prague Television Tower, the rock- etlike phallus blasting off in the Zizkov neighborhood (Metro: Jirího z Podêbrad); and the Petrín Tower, the mini–Eiffel Tower atop Petrín Hill with a fabulous panoramic view (Tram: 22). Admissions range from 25Kc to 30Kc (80¢–$1). Another view point is up on Vysehrad hill (see “Working Up a Sweat,” below).

also Bohemia’s first convent. The building now houses a museum of historic Czech art. You could spend a few days exploring the castle grounds in great detail, including the several buildings that are part of the National Gallery. End your visit with a stroll down Golden Lane (Zlatá ulicka), a row of miniature 16th-century cottages built into the castle walls. Among the legends about them is that they housed alchemists and astrologers under Rudolph II; later, Franz Kafka lived in house no. 22. Perhaps, though, if you’re the romantic type, pack some Brie and tea in your backpack before you head out for the day and finish your tour with a lovely picnic among lavender, roses and fragrant trumpet flowers in the historic gardens on the hillside below the castle. Hradcandské nám. & 22437 3368. www.hrad.cz. Grounds free. Main castle attractions (St. Vitus Cathedral, Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Powder Tower, and Golden Land/Dalibor Tower) 220Kc ($8). Buildings Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar daily to 4pm. Grounds Apr–Oct daily 5am–midnight; Nov–Mar daily 6am–11pm. Metro: Hradcanská. Tram: 22 or 23. Sternberk Palace Art Museum (Sternbersk; palác) The jewel in the National Gallery crown is the gallery at Sternberk Palace, adjacent to the main gate of Prague Castle. It displays 6 centuries of European art, everything from oils to sculptures. The permanent collection is divided chronologically into pre- 19th-century art, 19th- and 20th-century art, and 20th-century French paint- ing and sculpture. There’s also a good selection of cubist works by Braque and Picasso. Temporary exhibits are always moving through. Hradcanské nám. 15, Praha 1. & 22051 4634. www.ngprague.cz. Admission 90Kc ($3). Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Metro: Malostranská or Hradcanská. Strahov Monastery and Library (Strahovsk; kláster) The second oldest monastery in Prague, Strahov was founded high above Malá Strana in 1143 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 51

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by Vladislav II. It’s still home to Premonstratensian monks, a scholarly order related to the Jesuits, and their dormitories and refectory are off-limits. What draws visitors are the monastery’s ornate libraries, which hold more than 125,000 volumes. Strahovské nádvorí, Praha 1. & 22430 1297. Admission 35Kc ($1.50). Tues–Sun 9am–noon and 1–5pm. Tram: 22. Veletrzní Palace This remodeled 1925 palace holds the bulk of the National Gallery’s collection of 20th-century works by Czech and other European artists. Three atrium-lit concourses provide a comfortable setting for some catchy and kitschy Czech sculpture and multimedia works. There are cubist works by Braque and Picasso, Rodin bronzes, and other primarily French pieces in a poorly lit section on the second floor. Several sections are devoted to peculiar but thought provoking works from Czech artists that show how creativity still flowed under the weight of the Iron Curtain. Traveling exhibits are shown on the first floor. Veletrzní at Dukelsk;ch hrdin* 47, Praha 7. & 22430 1024. Admission 90Kc ($3). www.ngprague.cz. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; Thurs to 9pm. Metro: Vltavská. Tram: 17.

Vysehrad Moments You can absorb only so much culture, so if you’re ready to rest your brain or just have a romantic getaway, take an afternoon at Vysehrad. This is one of the two fortified hills between which Prague developed. Hradcany with Prague Castle on top is the other. Perched on the steep cliff here, you can watch the river disappear into the hills on the horizon. Myths about the found- ing of the Czech state and Prague are linked to this ancient fortification, and the walking paths pass a host of interesting statues, ruins, and churches. Especially interesting is a national cemetery that’s like an open-air gallery, with funereal designs by leading Czechs sculptors and a pantheon of graves for many of the Czech greats in art, music, and science (Dvorák, Smetana, Mucha). To reach the site, walk south from the tram stop, past the railway bridge, to the second traffic light; cross a small parking lot and you’ll see the church spires. Sobê slavova 1, Praha 2. & 2296 651. Admission free. Metro: Vysehrad. W. A. Mozart Museum (Bertramka) This museum is located in an 18th- century villa that was formerly Mozart’s Prague digs, owned by the musical couple Frantisek and Josefína Dusek. It’s located in a woodsy grove in the hills of the Smíchov neighborhood. It was from here that Mozart put the finishing touches on Don Giovanni. Spread over half a dozen rooms is a modest collection of papers related to Mozart’s life and time in Prague, a hammer piano and harp- sichord he played, and even a few locks of Amadeus’s hair. Alas, most of the museum labels are printed only in Czech, but Bertramka is worth the trip when there’s a concert scheduled on the outdoor terrace. Mozartova 169, Praha 5. & 25731 8461. www.comenius.cz (link to Bertramka). Admission 90Kc ($3). Daily 9:30am–6pm. Metro: Andêl; then tram 4, 6, 7, 9, 12, or 14. GAY PRAGUE Prague doesn’t have an especially gay street or neighborhood or any gay monuments. If you don’t want to hit the bars looking for local gay life, you could try the opera. Prague has more opera houses than many cities have decent bars. Pro- ductions run in repertory, so you can see the greatest hits or fill in some gaps in your own opera repertoire by choosing from more than a dozen productions over a week’s time, from Aïda to The Magic Flute to Don Giovanni. You can pick 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 52

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up tickets, often at the last minute, for as little as $5. (For more information on the opera, see “All the World’s a Stage,” later in this chapter.) PARKS, GARDENS & SQUARES Prague is blessed with a multitude of lovely public spaces. The old heart of the city is Old Town Square (Staromêstské námêstí), an expansive pedestrian space that can overstimulate with both human and architectural activity. There you’re sur- rounded by an awe-inspiring collection of monuments, from the Gothic of T;n Church to the high baroque of the Cathedral of St. Nicholas to the huge, haunt- ing sculpture honoring martyr Jan Hus. The square is like a big outdoor museum full of tourists eating ice cream, buying cheap crystal, resting, and at some point perhaps you’ll join them in standing before Old Town Hall (Staromêstská radnice) as the Astronomical Clock, a 15th-century timepiece, does an animated number on the hour (8am–8pm), with figures of saints and skeletons turning about. The clock is not meant to tell time but to mark the phases of the moon, the equinoxes, the seasons and day, and Christian holidays. (Legend has it that after the timepiece was remodeled at the end of the 15th century, clock artist Mas- ter Hanus was blinded by the Municipal Council so he couldn’t repeat his fine work elsewhere. In retribution, Hanus threw himself into the clock mechanism and died. The clock remained out of kilter for almost a century.) There are also options for a spin of your own with horse-drawn carriages lined up in and near the square until 10pm nightly (about 500Kc/$17 for a 20-min. ride). Walking south from Old Town Square to Wenceslas Square is a leap ahead several centuries. Wenceslas Square (Václavské námêstí) is the broad avenue leading up to the equestrian statue of King Wenceslas and the National Museum. It’s one of Prague’s most important public spaces and has been the site for many political upheavals over the years, including the massive public gath- erings during the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Today it is saturated in big-city capitalist hustle-bustle, with big 19th- and 20th-century buildings flanking each side, cars and cabs scooting and honking, and people trailing among hotels, shops, and restaurants. The activity here continues well into the night with neon signs, prostitutes, casinos, and vendors selling the kind of food you usually only resort to when you’re out after 2am. The gardens and courtyards on the river in Malá Strana are subtle beauties to enjoy as you wander among the old palaces and churches. Behind 9m (30-ft.) walls, sits the Wallenstein Garden (Valdstejnská zahrada), a green space in the baroque style connected to Wallenstein Palace, Prague’s largest. The quiet oasis contains a series of leafy paths and classical bronze statues and is a site of summer concerts. You can feel like a queen as you stroll through the Royal Garden (Královská zahrada), on the north side of Prague Castle. This is one of the most carefully tended and formal gardens in Prague, full of lemon trees, roses, impatiens, trimmed boxwoods, fountains, and sculptures. The Palace Gardens Beneath The Prague Castle (Ledeburskâ Garden) is a wonderful way to exit Prague Castle for an extra 150Kc ($5) fee. It’s well tended, has a nice diversity, and most importantly has wonderful little niches with benches and an amazing view of Prague and the Vltava among fragrant trumpet flowers, grapes and roses with views of the city to have a romantic little snack in. You’ll win big with your companion if you’re oh so suave and pull out some Brie, crackers, fruit, and favorite beverage here. A couple of other nice parks in the city center are Kampa Park a sliver of an island at the Charles Bridge with picturesque views of boats on the river and a 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 53

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Tips Cruising the River On calm days you can skip the big tour boats and go on your own self- powered float on the Vltava. A couple of boat rental companies have docks on Slovanks; Ostrov (Slavic Island), 2 blocks south of the National Theater, with paddle-wheelers and rowboats seating two to four people. (Take a good look at how hard those folks are working the oars on the rowboats before you decide which type to take.) Hourly rates for both are comparable—50Kc ($2) for rowboats and 120Kc ($4) for paddle-wheelers. The best way to appreciate the water and the romantic city lights is to take a lantern-lit ride at night. Weather permitting, the boats operate daily 10am to 10pm. Note: The river can get crowded these days, so watch out for the motorized tour boat wakes that are on the rise.

grass lawn for picnicking and lazing about, and Letná, a rather overgrown area with fine views of the bridges, a giant metronome atop the pedestal that once held the world’s largest Stalin monument, and several cafes. Letná is also a popular gay cruising spot (see “In the Heat of the Night,” later in this chapter). BOYS ON THE BEACH The unofficial gay “beach” in Prague is a rooftop terrace at the city’s largest public pool, Stadion Podoli, Podolská 74, Praha 4 (& 26121 4343), an enormous indoor/outdoor complex along the river about half an hour from the city center. Look for a three-story building that resembles a motel, south of the main pavilion. While children and families frolic below on the water slides and in the Olympic-size outdoor pool, gay men, young and old and in varying stages of undress, soak up the sun from a private perch with a westward-facing vista of the river valley. In summer, a cafe offers sandwiches, ice cream, and sangria, among other treats. The showers may be of special interest to some visitors. Admission is a modest charge, and you’ll also need a 100Kc bill handy as a deposit on a lock. Take tram no. 3, 17, or 21 south along the river from Karlovo namêsti. WORKING UP A SWEAT Gym devotees can work out in style at the Fitness Club at the Hotel Inter-Con- tinental Praha, Curieov;ch nám. 43–45, Praha 1 (& 22488 1525; Metro: Staromêstská; open Mon–Fri 6am–11pm, Sat–Sun 9am–10pm); enter the club on the hotel’s river side. A one-time pass costs 150Kc ($5) for the gym only or 400Kc ($14) for the pool, sauna, and gym; there are extra charges for aerobics and use of a putting green. The city’s most deluxe and up-to-date fitness center is in the Prague Marriott, V Celnici 8, Praha 1 (& 22288 8888; Metro: Námêstí Republiky; open Mon–Fri 6am–10pm, Sat–Sun 9am–9pm), but a 1- day pass is ridiculously expensive at 1,000Kc ($35). You’re likely to see bigger arms than anywhere else in Prague at the muscle- head gym in the Hotel Axa, Na Porící 40 (& 2232 9359; Metro: Námêstí Republiky; open Mon–Fri 7am–10pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm). One central room holds fixed and free weights, half a dozen exercise bikes, and other cardio equip- ment, plus a handful of gym bunnies in leotards. The club operates independ- ently of the hotel and the cost is 70Kc ($2) for one visit or 600Kc ($21) for 10 days. A 1-hour massage is a total deal at 300Kc ($10). The Axa also has a great lap pool (open Mon–Fri 6–7am and 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 9am–8pm). It’ll run you 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 54

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1Kc (3¢) per minute with a deposit of 100Kc ($3). For information, call & 2232 3967. Running and biking outdoors can be rough in a city of cobblestone streets. Letná Park, across the river from the Hotel Inter-Continental, offers a good spot for a nice run and a view overlooking the city.

5 Hitting the Stores Prague still hasn’t fully achieved the mature consumer culture we in the West have perfected, but it’s working on it and shop-’til-you-droppers will find some amusement. The city may not be the place you go for your biggest fashion shopping holiday, but with an infusion of Italian, French and a variety of mainstream designer boutiques like Ralph Lauren, Guess?, and Boss, Prague’s inhabitants can now dress in style. Prague’s ancient streets and storefronts weren’t laid out according to some developer’s master plan so it’ll take some legwork to discover those special spots. You will be rewarded for your curiosity, however. Take your shopping adventures off-road in Staré Mêsto and Malá Strana and descend a steep stairway, pass into a courtyard, or turn down some narrow path and stumble across an interesting little shop. Generally, department store hours are daily 8am to 8pm, supermar- kets Monday to Friday, 6am to 10pm and Saturday and Sunday 6am to 8pm. Small shops or boutiques are generally open daily 10am to 6pm and every neighborhood has a 24-hour shop. The major tourist areas—especially Karlova from Old Town Square to Charles Bridge and along Nerudova, the steep path leading up to the castle— are lined with nearly interchangeable shops selling souvenirs. Wenceslas Square is a bustling boulevard where capitalism is gaudily on display with gigantic neon signs atop buildings to Euro-mall-rats patrolling middle-of-the-road shops. Here and throughout Prague, keep an eye out for shopping opportunities tucked away in pasáz (passages), off-the-street minimalls sheltering anywhere from a handful to several dozen stores. One of the most historic, Lucerna, was designed by the grandfather of Czech president Václav Havel. One of the ritziest is Koruna Palac, at Wenceslas Square and Na Príkopê, containing a variety of upscale clothing boutiques, the music megastore Bontonland, and a Dunkin’ Donuts outlet large enough to accommodate the entire Prague police force. Wenceslas Square runs perpendicular into the brick pedestrian path of Na Príkopê, another bustling shopping avenue. A third major shopping street, once one of Prague’s most fashionable, is pedestrian Celetná, connecting Old Town Square to Námêstí Republiky. One of the most upwardly mobile streets in Prague is Parízska (Paris Street) , lined with a collection of neobaroque and Art Nouveau buildings running northwest from Old Town Square toward the river. Here it’s a roll call of French fashion houses, including Hermès, Vuitton, and Dior, as well as Ricci and Lecca. Other fashionistas are adding their names to other parts of Old Town: Versace and Ungaro around the corner from the Obecni d*m (Munici- pal House); Escada in Malé Námêstí (literally a “small square” off Old Town Square); and Hugo Boss at Jungmannovo Námêstí 18. Fashion aside, Prague lacks any gay specialty shops. Gay hasn’t hit here yet and times are still tough for anyone shopping for Pride mouse pads or “That’s Mr. Dyke to You” T-shirts. But you may want to investigate a few areas with a queerish sensibility, where hip homos will find some kinship, starting with Saská (Metro: Malostranská; Tram: 22), known locally as the “small street.” 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 55

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Over the last few years, a string of trendy shops has sprouted on this lane in Malá Strana just south of Charles Bridge. On the other side of the river, near Old Town Square, is a pasáz at Jilská 22 (Metro: Národní Trída) that offers one-stop shopping for the club kid in all of us: vintage, skater, and clubwear; alternative records (trance to techno); chunky-heeled shoes; and a tattooing/piercing salon. SHOPS A TO Z ART & ANTIQUES Antiques shops are plentiful. Follow the signs to BAZAR, ANTIK, or ANTIKVARIAT (the latter for rare books, maps, and prints). Antique Ahasver One of the nicer spots on the antique scene and an elegant little shop off Maltézské Námêstí in Malá Strana. Named for a Czech photogra- pher Ahasver, the store is run by his 20-something daughter, who has an exquisite eye for the best of Czech antiques and art objects, presented in a setting suggest- ing a 1920s Czech cottage. Besides the black-and-white art photography of the shop’s namesake, look for damask linens, paintings, jewelry, porcelain, and silver, as well as cultural specialties like hand-carved puppets and embroidered 1920s Slo- vak national costumes. Prokopská 3, Praha 1. & 29004 1660. Metro: Malostranská; Tram: 22. Art Deco Galerie A creaky-floored Old Town shop that feels like the attic of your pack rat great aunt. It sells items from between the wars (I and II), such as furniture, lamps, clothing, hats, shoes, and perfume bottles, including many items adorned with images of women. Michalská 21, Praha 1. & 226 13 67. Metro: M*stek. Art Dêcoratif Try this shop if you want to take a little Prague Art Nouveau home with you. It’s in a storefront in the Municipal House complex. The shop specializes in reproductions—lamps, vases, bowls, and pendants and other jewelry, including items based on Alphonse Mucha’s designs (see “The Hits You Shouldn’t Miss,” earlier in this chapter). Melantrichova 5, Praha 1. & 22200 2350. www.artdecoratif.cz. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. B&F Keramika This is an out-of-the-way shop in Malá Strana, near Kampa Park, that specializes in arty ceramics—cups, teapots, vases, and decorative items—made on the premises. Nosticova 470/8, Praha 1. & 29004 1744. Tram: 12 or 22. Bric á Brac Junkers will appreciate a place where they can pick up easy-to- stow items. Off Old Town Square, behind the T;n Church is one of the city’s oldest antiques shops. You’ll find paintings, Art Deco items, cameras, accor- dions, and toys, with a tiny adjunct around the corner packed to the rafters with even more stuff. T;nská 7, Praha 1. & 22481 5763. Metro: Staromêtská. Icons Gallery Start at this shop facing Pohorlec Square, up the hill from the Strahov Monastery, for Russian icons from the 18th century. Browse the neigh- boring shops for antique violins, 1930s Moser glass, and Judenstil (Art Nou- veau) vases. Pohorlec 9, Praha 1. & 22051 4287. Tram: 22. Vetesnictví A shop crammed with wonderful old things like watches, clocks, figurines, keys, coins, costume jewelry, toys, glassware, and porcelain objects. Saská 3, Praha 1. & 29004 1985. Metro: Malostranská. BOOKS Anagram Bookshop You can get English-language books in this congenial American-owned shop in T;n Courtyard with a well-chosen variety of both new and used titles, including magazines, framed graphics, and postcards. T;n 4, Praha 1. & 22489 5737. www.anagram.cz. Metro: Staromêtská. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 56

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Value Tax-Free Shopping While exchange rates aren’t terribly favorable to Westerners at the moment, you can ease your pain with a rebate on the value-added tax (VAT) included in the price of goods. Look for shops with a “Tax-Free Shopping” logo; after filling out the paperwork supplied by a merchant, you can save from 5% to 22% on purchases over 1,000Kc ($35).

Globe Bookstore One of the anchors of expat culture for the last decade has been this English-language bookstore/coffeehouse, now ready for the second decade of post-revolutionary times with a spacious, spiffier home near the National Theater. Pstrossova 6, Praha 1. & 22491 6264. Metro: Národní Trída. Kanzelsberger d*m Knihy (House of Books) A centrally located place to browse for coffee table books, maps, and other souvenir books is Prague’s version of the megabookstore. Václavské nam. 42, Praha 1. & 22421 7335. Metro: M*stek. U Knihomola This is the best-stocked foreign-language bookstore, with a range of fiction and nonfiction. There’s an excellent selection of art and coffee- table books. Most of the stock is in English, with sections in Czech, French, and German. Downstairs is a cozy cafe where you can sit with your new purchase and order everything from a continental breakfast to sandwiches to tasty carrot cake. Mánesova 79, Praha 2. & 2627 7767. Metro: Jirího z Podêbrad. CONDOMS Kondomerie The first condom shop in the Czech Republic debuted in 1997. The boutique cleverly displays 250 kinds of jimmies from half a dozen countries, as well as women’s condoms, lube, and other novelties. Gift-wrapping is available and they have a cafe that serves alcohol. Karolíny Svêtlé 9, at Národní, Praha 1. & 29000 1526. www.kondom.cz; Metro: Národní Trída. CRYSTAL You can’t help but stumble over Bohemian crystal everywhere in Prague, but you’ll have to do some comparative shopping to get the best quality and prices. Celetná Crystal This is another big showroom, but a bit less intimidating than Moser, with three floors of crystal, garnets, porcelain, jewelry, and arts and crafts. Celetná 15, Praha 1. & 2232 4022. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Moser Even if you can only afford to look, it’s worth wandering into this world-famous shop. The second-floor showroom is a museum-like space furnished with stained glass, inlaid paneling, Oriental rugs, and chandeliers. Na Príkopê 12, Praha 1. & 22421 1293. Metro: M*stek. DEPARTMENT STORES Kotva Perhaps the most upscale department store in town is this Swedish- owned one with everything from men’s and women’s clothing to cosmetics to sporting goods. Námêstí Republiky 8, Praha 1. & 22480 1111. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Tesco The best way to explain this shop is to say it was once a Kmart. Now an outpost of a British chain, this multilevel store is a convenient place in the center of town to pick up staples of life, from apparel to electronics to paper goods; it’s also good to know that there’s a grocery store in the basement. Národní Trída 26, Praha 1. & 22200 3111. Metro: Národní Trída. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 57

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FASHION Devátá Vlna The store is colorful and carries original work from young designers, with club and street wear for men and women, as well as handbags, outerwear, and more. Saská below the Charles Bridge. & 2781 2972. Metro: Malostranská. Faux Pas The best source for women’s and men’s clubwear, produced by about half a dozen Prague designers, has gone more upscale and is carrying more sportswear. Her roots are in eye-catching, body-hugging clothes; look in the back for racks of rubber skirts, latex corsets, metal bras, and teeny miniskirts and tops. Gay designer Josev Cechota has developed a collection of men’s clingy shirts, including some T-shirts with pockets sized especially for condoms. Újezd 26, at Ricni, Praha 1. & 25731 5261. Tram: 12 or 22. M;rnyx T;rnyx The small vintage clothing shop brings a little bit of L.A.’s Melrose Avenue to Prague—it was set up by an expat from Los Angeles. Owner Maya named it for the German expression meaning “to each his own.” Some of her garments, collected on buying trips to the States, and increasingly from Czechs cleaning out their closets, have appeared in fashion spreads in the Czech versions of Cosmo and Elle; she also puts on fashion shows at clubs, often putting men in skirts and other gender-bending mischief, and runs an alternative modeling agency. Saská below the Charles Bridge. & 229 7938. Metro: Malostranská. JEWELRY Granát Turnov A few blocks off of Staré Mêsto, this factory store has two large showrooms of ruby-colored Bohemian garnets, the Czech national gem, which can be set in an array of gold and silver jewelry. Dlouhá 30, Praha 1. & 2231 5612. Metro: Staromêtská. MARKETS With an array of craftspeople and artists hawking their endeavors, the Charles Bridge is always a bit of a market. A small produce market is held daily behind the Tesco department store near the Národní Trída Metro station. Havel’s Market (Havelské Trzistê) This is the biggest market in the city center. You’ll find nearly 100 covered stalls of fruit and vegetables, fresh flowers, and plenty of random tchotchkes. The vendors are open daily 8am to 6pm. Havelská at Melantrichova, Praha 1. Metro: Staromêstká. SHOES Bat’a Serious shoe fetishists should make an appearance at this temple of footwear. At the head of Wenceslas Square, it boasts one of Prague’s most exten- sive shoe selections, both men’s and women’s, and everything from gym shoes to comfy walking wear, plus belts, socks, hose, belts, and more. The six-story store also offers a prime vantage for overlooking the square. Václavské nám. 6, Praha 1. & 22421 8133. Metro: M*stek. Tunel For shoes with a hipper edge. This Old Town boutique carries mostly English-made leather boots and sandals, snazzy Italian shoes, and some club fashion. Jilská 22, Praha 1. & 22423 2708. Metro: Staromêtská. SOUVENIRS Ceramic Models of Houses This is one of a proliferation of merchants ped- dling miniature ceramic replicas of the Czech Republic’s most famed buildings. T;nská 9, behind T;n Church, Praha 1. & 2231 4698. Metro: Staromêtská. Czech Traditional Handicrafts While the opportunity to buy souvenirs is ever-present, you’ll find higher-quality items here. There is a nice collection of 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 58

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homegrown wood, ceramics, and textile gifts, as well as food items made in the Czech Republic. There are numerous other locations. Karlova 26, Praha 1. & 22222 0433. Metro: Staromêtská. Museum Shops of Prague Get souvenirs with items inspired by Prague’s museums, including silk, porcelain, glass pieces, posters, and cards. There are numerous locations. At the corner of Husova and Karlova, Praha 1. & 22437 3264. Metro: Staromêtská. TOYS & PUPPETS Drevêné Hráky Some of the best Czech hand-carved wooden toys are sold here. Look for all sorts of unpainted animals, mobiles, trains, mice on wheels, helicopters, skiers, weight lifters, and hand-decorated Easter eggs. Karlova 26, Praha 1. & 24968 7387. Metro: Staromêtská. Obchod Loutkami You probably wouldn’t want to let kids get their hands on some of the toys at this Malá Strana shop. This is the city’s finest puppet shop and it carries some wild handmade puppets inspired by ghosts and myths of old Prague. There are also hookers with exposed breasts, bug-eyed chaplains, four- armed thieves and G-rated marionettes of musicians, royalty, clowns, storybook characters, and so forth. Nerudova 47, Praha 1. & 2231 1693. Metro: Malostranksá.

6 All the World’s a Stage You don’t need to set foot in one of Prague’s magnificent concert halls or theaters to see the arts have deep roots here. You’ll run across many an impromptu and free street concert, but for only a few crowns or so, you can sample some of the professional cultural offerings in a city known for its devotion to opera and music. It’s often worth the price of admission just to see the inside of some of the richly ornamented theaters. GETTING TICKETS Stick out your hand as you walk down the street, and it’ll soon be full of advertisements for Mozart arias, operas, and church concerts. Concerts are held nearly every day in venues all over the city, so it’s easy to find one to attend at the last minute. If you want to ensure your seat, you can pick up tickets to cultural events at many hotels in town or one of the Prague Tourist Information Centers (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter). Of the several ticket services (which charge an extra fee), Ticketpro, Salvátorská 10, near Old Town Square, Praha 1 (& 29632 9999; www.ticketpro.cz; Metro: Staromêtská; open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm), sells tickets to nearly everything in town, from operas to rock concerts to theatrical performances. Outlets are also found in Pasáz Rokoko, Václavské nam 38, and elsewhere around the city, including several major hotels. Tickets to the State Opera are sold exclusively through Bohemia Ticket International, Malé Námêstí 13, Praha 1 (& 22422 7832 or 22423 7727; www.ticketsbti.cz; Metro: Staromêtská; open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat to 2pm); Na Príkopê 16, Praha 1 (& 22421 5031; Metro: M*stek; open Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat to 5pm, Sun to 3pm), and some hotels like Hotel Renaissance, Hotel Four Seasons, and Hotel Palace. The service also sells passes to classical music and theater performances. Pick up monthly listings of concerts and performances as well as Bohemia Ticket International sales at the Prague Tourist Center (& 2232 5135), brows- ing the weekly listings in the English-language Prague Post, or skimming the freebie newsletter Do Mêsto/Downtown. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 59

ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE 59 THE PERFORMING ARTS OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC The National Opera isn’t among the world’s upper echelon, but its productions are solid, with international stars occasionally joining in. Bertramka The garden at the villa where Mozart often stayed when he vis- ited Prague and now a Mozart museum, is the setting for summer concerts, operas, and chamber music festivals. Mozartova 169, Praha 5. & 25731 7465. www. bertramka.cz. Metro: Andêl, then tram 4, 6, 9, 12, or 14 Estates’ Theater (Stavovské divadlo) This stately, pale-green classi- cally inspired theater, built in 1783, still appears as it did when Mozart held the baton on opening night of the 1787 Don Giovanni. Czech filmmaker Milos For- man used the theater in his Amadeus. Today the theater has no resident company but often plays host to Mozart operas and theater and ballet. Ovocn; trída 1, Praha 1. & 22490 1448. Metro: M*stek. National Theatre (Národní divadlo) National Opera performances are staged at this golden-roofed landmark theater in late-Renaissance style. It was built in 1883 with funds contributed by the Czech people after an earlier theater burned. It served to nurture Czech language and culture during a time of German dominance then and it’s now the setting for ballet and opera, as well as dramatic theatrical performances. Národní Trída 2, Praha 1. & 22490 1448. www. narodni-divadlo.cz. Metro: Národní Trída. Rudolfinum This building has an impressive neo-Renaissance profile on the river’s edge and a pantheon of beloved artist and composer statues and is the performance home of Prague’s leading classical music group, the Czech Philhar- monic Orchestra and Prague Spring International Music Festival . The orchestra was established late in the 19th century and its first concert was led by celebrated Czech composer Antonín Dvorák. It favors Czech composers like Dvorák, Smetana, and Janácek. Beginning each May 12 and ending June 4, The International Music Festival also has performances at concert halls and churches around Prague. For ticket information, contact & 25731 2547 or 25731 1921; www.festival.cz. Alsovo nábrezi 12, Praha 1. & 224893111; Metro: Staromêstká. Smetana Hall (Smetanova sín) The Prague Symphony Orchestra, founded in 1934, performs more adventurous 20th-century works in this sub- limely restored centerpiece of the Municipal House (Obecní d*m). Besides the Prague Symphony, the concert hall is busy with a variety of chamber and performing groups. Námêstí Republiky 5. & 22200 2101. www.obecni-dum.cz. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. State Opera House (Státní opera) A 1992 split brought about the creation of the Prague State Opera, which has found a home in a beautiful 1887 German opera hall. The company tends to stick to Italian classics in the original language with fabulous sets and costumes. Wilsonova 4, Praha 2. & 22422 7266. www. opera.cz. Metro: Muzeum. While other numerous venues, both indoor and out, are too numerous to list here, concerts are regularly performed at the T;n and St. Nicholas churches in Staré Mêsto (Old Town Square), St. Nicholas Church on Malostranské námêstí in Malá Strana, and St. Vitus Cathedral at Prague Castle. THEATER Theater has long played a leading role in Czech life, most recently as a staging ground for the 1989 Velvet Revolution; today some of the country’s 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 60

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appeal is inspired by its playwright-president Václav Havel. Dramatic works are staged nightly in more than a dozen professional theaters, including the National Theatre (see above), but most are performed in Czech. There’s no language barrier to worry about in two theatrical forms indigenous to the Czech Republic. Puppet theater has a long history here, and several companies stage shows in Prague. Another popular genre is black-light theater, a kind of pan- tomime performed in the dark with performers and props coated in luminescent stage paint. Half a dozen theaters produce this kind of unusual work. Celetná Theater One of the few English-language theaters, Misery Loves Company performs a repertoire drawn from original plays written by all the starry-eyed young expat writers who’ve flooded Prague over the last decade. Celetná 17, Praha 1. & 2232 6843. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Magic Lantern (Laterna Magika) A multimedia theater in a new wing of the National Theater, it employs optical tricks with lighting, projections, film, song, dance, and performance along the lines of the black-light theater. Národní Trída 4, Praha 1. & 22222 2041. www.laterna.cz. Metro: Národní Trída. National Marionette Theater (Národní divadlo marionet) This venue has made a name for itself with its long-running campy puppet adaptation of Mozart’s Don Giovanni, accompanied by a prerecorded Italian libretto and with puppets in full period costume. Zatecká 1, Praha 1. & 22481 9322. www.mozart.cz. Metro: Staromêstká. DANCE Prague’s dance scene takes a backseat to opera and classical music, but the Prague National Ballet has been around since 1883. National Ballet Theater (& 22490 1448) fills the house at the National Theatre (see above) with a repertoire of traditional ballet as well as a few inspired modern story lines. LIVE-MUSIC CLUBS Jazz Club zelezná This club with unbeatable atmosphere is deep in a Gothic cellar off of Old Town Square about 90m (100 yards) from Staromestske Namesti, through a pasáz (passage) and down. The architectural stonework is all aglow and music begins at 9pm, and the club brings in everything from Latin fusion to Hungarian avant-garde jazz. Zelezná 16, Praha 1. & 22423 9697. www.jazz club.cz. Metro: Staromê stská. Open daily 3pm–midnight. Cover 80Kc–120Kc ($2.10–$3.15). Palác Akropolis In the edgy Zizkov neighborhood, this is a kind of avant- garde cultural center presenting everything from jazz and world music to alternative rock to theater. Kubelíkova 27, Praha 3. & 29633 0911. www.palacakropolis.cz. Metro: Jirího z Podêbrad. Open daily 7pm–5am, Cover 90Kc–300Kc ($3–$10). Reduta Jazz Club Prague’s most established jazz club is an intimate room where no one is more than 15m (50 ft.) from the stage. The musical bill spans Dixieland to modern, and the club books a mix of ensembles and soloists, both Czech and touring foreign acts like Wynton Marsalis. The club dates from 1958 and is one of the oldest in Europe. It achieved acclaim for hosting a couple of nonprofessional jazzmen in 1994: Bill Clinton and Václav Havel. Národní Trída 20, Praha 1. & 22491 2246. Metro: Národní Trída. Open daily 9pm–midnight. Cover 120Kc ($4) some nights. Roxy For alternative rock, electronic, and whatever else the young crowd is listening to, cruise over to this converted theater. Dlouhá 33, Praha 1. & 22482 6296. www.roxy.cz. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Open daily 9pm–6am. Cover 100Kc–160Kc ($3–$6). 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 61

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7 In the Heat of the Night The Czech Republic hasn’t reached the heights of other parts of Europe with its after-dark gay scene, but there are clubs and pubs and discos popping up for a variety of tastes. Most bars are geared for conversation and beer consumption, and they’re not ready for any top-10 lists. In the Czech Republic, as in any other capitals, the scene is more for gay males, and mixed partying, with only one women’s pub. Stepping into some of these clubs, you can feel transported back to, say, the 1950s gay hideouts in the U.S., as they range from unslick to depressingly drab—many with minimal or no signage. But ignore the lack of panache, and take the opportunity to connect with your fellow homos across cultural lines in whichever way you are most prone to bend. The crowds in the more popular spots are a colorful mosaic of locals, expats, and tourists and you’re bound to make new friends. The locals in the smaller clubs can perhaps leave you feeling like the outsider you are—unless you speak Czech or can find your way past the language barrier with a winning smile. Then of course, if you’re into the backroom scenes, who knows who’s who in the dark? Prague has no “gay area” with a cluster of clubs or shops, but there are quite a few bars (including gay), clubs, and saunas in Prague 1 (Old and New Town— Stare and Nove Mesto), Prague 2 and 10 (Winehill–Vinohrady) and Prague 3 (Zizkov). There is at least one important custom to look for in some clubs. As you enter a bar, you can expect to be handed a narrow slip of paper that bartenders will use to track your drinks. (It can serve you too as a handy way to remind yourself how many pivo you’ve got in you.) Before you leave the bar, you’ll need to settle your tab with the bartender or door staff. For the latest on the evolving scene, scan the listings in Gaycko and Amigo (both primarily in Czech but with maps of bars) and the gay-friendly weekly Prague Post. The website www.gayguide.net also keeps up with the comings and goings of Prague nightlife and lists everything from legit clubs to the shad- owy boy bordeleaux spots (places where those who are looking to either buy or sell their favors can go) and male cruising areas. MAINSTREAM BARS & PUBS Banana Cafe Another late-night hangout on the upper floor of La Provence restaurant. It’s a lively spot with a mixed crowd that includes gays and lesbians. There are bar dancers and drag queen performances now and then. Stupartská 9, Praha 1. & 22232 4801. Metro: námê stí Republiky. Open daily 8pm–2am. Chapeau Rouge An attitude- and smoke-filled bar with lighting that casts a Prague-Castle-like glow on its crowd pumped and grooving to DJ house beats. The club is quite straight but manages to feel queer and ambiguous (guys sporting bleached-out blond hair and piercings) and when everyone gets to partying— well things get a bit more ambiguous. The bar has something of a reputation as a place where it’s easy to score soft drugs (you may even find people lighting up outside) and where slimy guys are prone to paw over the women. Jakubská 2, Praha 1. & 22231 6328. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Open daily 4pm–5am. Marquis de Sade Located in Old Town with a bit of a tease of a name—it’s not a leather bar at all, even with its slogan (“Come Feel the Pain”). This grungy parlor is an enormous deep-red room seething with noise and expats and rock 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 62

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and alternative bands. Templová 8, at Jakubská, Praha 1. & 2232 7790. Metro: M*stek. Open Mon–Sat noon–2am, Sun 3pm–2am. U Flek* You’ll find buses dispensing hordes of foreigners at this tourist trap of historic proportions: a 500-year-old German-style beer hall/restaurant, with mugs of its own dark beer, oompah bands, and drunks dancing on the tables (and room for 1,200 of them). But if you can manage to get there in the late afternoon, it’s quite pleasant to sit under the beer garden’s shade trees. Kremencova 11, Praha 2. & 22491-5118. Metro: Národní Trída. Open daily 9am–11pm. GAY CAFES & BARS Cafe Érra Tucked away on a back street in Old Town this cafe draws a whole range of customers, gay and straight, professional and punk to its colorfully cool self, with two levels of seating, including a cozy basement with a fireplace. It’s a great spot for a cocktail or a light dinner. Konviktská 11, Praha 1. & 22423 3427. Metro: Národní Trída. Open daily 9am–11pm. Club Stella This is a laid-back bar on a residential street in Vinohrady. The decor is classic Czech with loads of atmosphere from heavy drapes, Oriental rugs, and gilt-framed paintings of somebody’s dead ancestors. There are several rooms that range from the intimate nook of a bar to a leafy backyard patio. There is no darkroom. With its friendly staff and mixed crowd of men and women, Stella can serve as a good launching pad for a night out. Its moody red lighting can provide a suitable backdrop for your first taste of the flaming green elixir known as absinthe—the potent potion nicknamed “the green fairy” made from anise and wormwood extract and banned nearly everywhere as a health hazard. Luzická 10, at sumavská, Praha 2. & 022425 7869. Metro: Námêstí Míru. Open daily 8pm–5am. Friends Gay life arrived downtown in 1998 with the opening of this popular bar just steps from the Charles Bridge. This 300-year-old medieval Gothic cellar, fitted with halogen lighting (and an air filter), has quickly become the destination of choice for queer Czech professionals (mostly men, but women do visit as well). Everybody is there on Wednesday for the Czech equivalent of show-tunes night they call Czech Music Party. There is no cover. Náprstkova 1, at Karoliny Svêtlé, Praha 1. & 22163 5408. www.friends-prague.cz. Metro: Národní Trída. Open daily 4pm–3am. Kafírna U Ceského Pána A friendly hangout both day and night is an unpretentious small and mellow cafe/bar near Old Town Square. The crowd leans toward older, but you’ll find tables populated with everyone from middle- age butchies to pretty-boys. There is an occasional “travesty” (drag) show. Kozí 13, Praha 1. & 2232 8283. Metro: Staromêstská. Open Mon–Fri noon–11pm, Sat–Sun 3–11pm. DRAG SHOWS After being cruelly deprived of drag shows for half a century by the Commu- nists, liberated Czechs were relishing their new freedoms for a while and Pra- guers, mostly straight, couldn’t seem to get enough drag shows (often called “travesty” shows in Europe). This seems to have worn off, however, and the drag scene is not as happening as it once was here. LEATHER BARS Alcatraz This place adds some more spice to the scene. In the zizkov neighborhood, the bar is equipped with all kinds of props for late-night hijinks, Occa- sional special underwear and sex parties are held and these have a 100Kc ($3) 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 63

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Fabulous! Cruising’s a Drag If you’re visiting Prague in summer, you may want to join the queens blowing kisses from one of the popular drag boat cruises on the Vltava River to tourists strolling along Charles Bridge. Look for details, dates, and prices at most of the gay bars around the city.

cover. Borivojova 54, Praha 3. & 22271 1458. http://run.to/alcatraz. Tram: 5, 9, or 26. Open daily 9:30pm–4am. 70Kc ($2) minimum. Tunel A gathering place in Smíchov neighborhood for guys into uniforms, leather, and rubber, with a small darkroom. Plzenská 41, Praha 5. No phone. www.tunel.cx. Metro: Andêl. Open Tues–Sat 9:30pm–4am. Cover 50Kc–80Kc ($1.30–$2.10) including a drink. A LESBIAN BAR A Club The Czech Republic has its first lesbian bar. The bar’s mainstay is a sports dyke crowd of ice and floor hockey and basketball players, but since it’s the only women’s bar in town, it will draw all the gals at one time or another. There’s an inconspicuous sign above the door and it’s reached by heading (not taking a header) down a steep and narrow stairway. A Club feels like a bit of a VFW (veterans of foreign wars) for lesbians. It’s informal and nothing fancy by Western standards and a TV over the bar will have “the game” on. There’s a pool table, a limited menu, and a compact dance floor. The club welcomes gay men, but Fridays are for women only. Sundays may bring a trans or strip show. Milí- cova 25, Praha 3. & 22278 1623. Tram: 5, 9, or 26. Open Mon–Sat 6pm–midnight; Sun 7pm–midnight. Cover 50Kc ($1.30). While A Club is the only dedicated lesbian spot in Prague, women can be found at Friends, Club Stella, and Gejzeer. GAY DANCE CLUBS The Prague gay club scene is rather up and down, with new spots opening with a splash and pizzazz and then fading out. The club of the moment can quickly become the has-been or long-gone. Gejzeer This spacious party place in the basement of a movie theater has hung in there for a few years. The young, mostly male crowd shows up in black and tight whatever, especially on Saturdays, to gyrate among the laser lights and bubbles of the dance floor and mingle in the multiple bars, lounges, darkrooms, and other nooks. There is often some special event or theme party happening here, so you may catch something in the realm of an underwear fashion show down their catwalk or a sailor party. Perhaps you’ll be there for the ever popular foam party with pretty boys in swim trunks serving fresh fruits through the waist high foam on the dance floor. Vinohradská 40, Praha 2. & 22251 6036. www.gejzeer.cz. Metro: Námêstí Míru. Open Fri–Sat 9pm–5am. Cover 100Kc ($3). Tom’s Bar Another dance club that has persevered for 10 years while others have come and gone can be spotted by a rainbow flag sign out front. It is popular with a fairly young and clean-cut crowd of guys and a few butch tattoo boys with shaved heads and tank tops (not just a fashion statement since the club seems about 15° hotter than the outside). Everyone seems pretty focused on dancing in this low-ceilinged basement space, with smoke floating over the small dance floor that’s separated from the bar area with fencing. The music is happy 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 64

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bubblegum pop that encourages lots of gesturing. There’s also another room with porn and a dark area (watch for pickpockets, as you should in all backrooms), and the club also is the scene of weekly underwear/naked parties. Pernerova 48, Praha 8. & 22481 3802. www.fw.cz/tomsbar. Metro: Florenc. Open Sun–Wed 6pm–2am; Fri–Sat to 4am. Cover 50Kc ($2). MIXED CLUBS Radost FX The downstairs disco at this hipster expat compound is so hyper- trendy that being gay is as fashionable as platform shoes. Some of the best DJs in town (techno to jungle) whip things up in the stylized sci-fi decor. When you’re ready to cool down or steal a few quiet moments with a new friend, move upstairs for late-night munchies in Radost’s vegetarian cafe and laid-back lounge. Bêlehradská 120, Praha 2. & 22425 4776. www.radostfx.cz. Metro: I.P. Pavlova; Tram: 4, 6, 11, 16, or 22. Open daily 10pm–6am. Cover 50Kc–300Kc ($2–$11). Roxy There’s always something interesting going on here—a fashion show, a cool DJ, a concert—at this dance palace, a raw old theater with an underground vibe. The DJ is good up onstage, often with video loops of old Speed Racer car- toons or some Japanese animation projected behind him or her. On the floor, legions of your basic raver kids and a few baby dykes dance alone with lots of spinning and jumping, and even an Irish jig thingy now and then. Dlouhá 33, Praha 1. & 22482 6296. www.roxy.cz. Metro: Námêstí Republiky. Open daily 9pm–6am. Cover 100Kc–160Kc ($3–$6). DOWN & DIRTY: CINEMAS, SAUNAS & MORE Male prostitutes, or rent boys as they’re charmingly called (how about rent-a- Czechs?), are about as ubiquitous in Prague as Bohemian crystal shops. They’re often young emigrants from other Eastern European countries and often straight. They can spot a foreigner in no time but can be a little tricky to detect themselves. So don’t put your vanity too far ahead of your common sense if you find yourself flattered by some guy with awkward subject-verb agreement. He could very well be a prostitute and though this may be your best offer of the night, be prepared—at the least he may expect you to pay his bar tab and at the worst he may steal you blind. Rent boys congregate at many of the clubs and often at the main train station, which is a bit of a creepy place late at night. If you don’t want to pay for it, several of Prague’s bars and clubs are furnished with backrooms where guests are welcome to get to know one another a little better. The most active outdoor rendezvous is Letná Park, across the river from the Intercontinental Hotel at the end of Parízská. Look for the huge metronome on the hill. There also are other alternatives for those who prefer a little more privacy when they’re dancing in the dark. Babylonia Praguers love saunas and this is the largest and spiffiest with an inspiring name. It is a clean and pleasant place in the center of town near the Tesco department store. At the front bar you might have a friendly chat with a towel-clad expat, or perhaps enjoy a friendlier encounter with one of the other patrons in the steam room, dry sauna, whirlpool, or downstairs cabins. Martinská 6, Praha 1. & 22423 2304. www.amigo.cz/babylonia. Metro: Národní Trída. Open daily noon–3am. Admission 200Kc ($6). Drake’s Opened by an American expat and now part of the William Higgins chain, this “we-never-close” joint has a small bar up front connected to a corri- dor of booths for film screenings and private cabins, “relax rooms.” There are 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 65

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live strip shows and an erotic shop and on Sunday nights at 8pm a free buffet. Petrínská 5, at Zborovská, Praha 5. No phone. Metro: Andêl. Tram 6, 9, 12, 22. Open 24 hr. Admis- sion 500Kc ($18). Heaven It is bright and inviting at this branch of a German business that arrived in Prague in 1998. Look for mags, videos, and a cinema at this shop around the corner from the Fred and Ginger Building. Gorazdova 11, Praha 2. & 22492 1282. Metro: Karlovo Námêstí. Open Mon–Fri 11am–midnight; Sat–Sun 2pm– midnight. Cinema admission 100Kc ($2.60) for the day, 50Kc ($1.30) for men age 25 and younger. Lambda City Shop Another place to find gay porn mags, videos, and sex toys; also sells Czech gay magazines like Amigo. Krakovská 2, Praha 1. & 29623 0015. Metro: Muzeum. Open daily 2–8pm. Sauna David For the sake of variety, you can try this spot a bit outside the center of town with a mini fitness area, videos and an oxygen bar. Sokolovská 44, Praha 8. & 22231 7869. www.gaysauna.cz. Metro: Krizíkova. Open daily noon–midnight. Admis- sion 150Kc ($3.95).

8 Side Trips from Prague: Cesk; Krumlov, Karlstejn Castle & Karlovy Vary The rush of visitors into the Czech Republic is generally concentrated in Prague, but there are several worthy destinations in the outlying regions. You can book train tickets and check schedules in Prague at Cedok, Na Príkopê 18, Praha 1 (& 22419 7111). There is also an online train schedule at http://bahn.hafas.de/ bin/query.exe/en. Cedok also arranges tours with guides in several languages. Several other group and private operators also offer day trips (see “Exploring Prague,” earlier in this chapter). CESK: KRUMLOV If you have time for only one excursion, make it Cesk; Krumlov 19km (12 miles) southwest of Ceské Budêjovice and 166km (104 miles) south of Prague. It’s a living gallery of Renaissance-era buildings housing cafes, pubs, restaurants, shops, and galleries. In 1992, UNESCO named it a World Heritage Site. For more information, check out the town’s Web site at www.ckrumlov.cz. Note: At press time, the town had sustained serious damage in the floods of 2002. Cleanup efforts were underway, and parts of the town were open to tourism while others were vowing to get things restored quickly. The only way to reach Cesk; Krumlov by train from Prague is via Ceské Budêjovice, a slow ride that’ll deposit you at a station far from the town center. 1 It takes 3 ⁄2 hours; the fare is 171Kc ($6) first class or 114Kc ($4) second class. From Ceské Budêjovice, it’s about a 30-minute drive to Krumlov, depending on traffic. Take Hwy. 3 leading from the south of Ceské Budêjovice and turn onto Hwy. 159. The roads are clearly marked, with signs directing traffic to the town. From Prague to Cesk; Krumlov, it’s a 2-hour drive. SEEING THE SIGHTS The town is split into the Inner town and Latrán, which houses the castle. Begin at the Okresní Muzeum (Regional Museum) at the top of Horní ulice (& 337/711 674), containing artifacts and displays relat- ing to Cêsk;; Krumlov’s 1,000-year history. The highlight is a giant ceramic model of the town. Admission is 20Kc to 30Kc (50¢–80¢); May to September, it’s open daily 10am to 5pm, and October to April, hours are Tuesday to Friday 9am to 4pm and Saturday and Sunday 1 to 5pm. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 66

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Across the street the Hotel R*ze (& 337/772 100; www.hotelruze.cz), dates from the 16th century and was once a Jesuit monastery and university. The “Hotel Rose” has Gothic, Renaissance, and rococo influences. Don’t be afraid to walk around and ask questions at the reception desk. You’ll enjoy your visit to Krumlov more if you stay the night, and the Hotel R*ze will definitely add to your experience. The rooms are enormous and lavish and even the former monk’s cells have their own appeal with picture-postcard views. Continue down the street to the impressive Late Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral and be sure to climb the tower for its spectacular view. Continue down the street to námêstí Svorností. Few of the colorful buildings show much character, and the main square of this impressive town is a bit disappointing. The Radnice (Town Hall), at Svorností nám. 1, is one of the exceptions. Its Gothic arcades and Renaissance vault inside are beautiful. From the square, streets fan out in all directions. Take some time just to wander through them. As you cross the bridge and head toward the castle, you’ll see to your right the former hospital and church of St. Jost. Founded at the beginning of the 14th century, it has since been turned into apartments. The second-largest castle in Bohemia (Prague Castle is the largest), the Cesk; Krumlov Chateau was built in the 13th century. Your first site of it is the round 12th-century tower with Renaissance balcony. Next you’ll pass over the moat, usually occupied by a few brown bears. Next is the Dolní Hrad (Lower Castle) and then the Horní Hrad (Upper Castle). April to October, the château is open exclusively by 1-hour guided tour. Most tours are in Czech or German. If you want an English-language tour, arrange it ahead by calling & 337/711 687. Past the main castle building, you can see one of the more stunning views of Cesk; Krumlov from most Na Plástí, a walkway that doubles as a belvedere. The castle hours are Tuesday to Sunday; hours vary by season but are generally 9am to 5pm, with a break between noon and 1pm. The last entrance is 1 hour before closing. The tour for non-Czech speakers is 150Kc ($5). A separate tour of the castle’s splendidly restored baroque theater is also available and the castle gardens are free. WHET YOUR APPETITE Open daily 7am to 11pm, Rybarská Basta Jakuba Krcína, Kájovská 54 (& 337/712 692), specializes in freshwater fish, with main courses at 120Kc to 300Kc ($4–$10). Trout, perch, pike, and eel are sautéed, grilled, baked, and fried in a variety of herbs and spices. Venison, rabbit, and other game are also available, along with roast beef and pork cutlet. Reservations are recommended. KARLSTEJN CASTLE People rush by the bus load, 29km (18 miles) out west of Prague to see the spectacular Romanesque Karlstejn Castle, founded in 1348 by Charles IV as his private all-male retreat. Then, women were forbidden to enter the castle and his wife Anna’s successful break-in was legendary. It’s quite spectacular in particular, the Chapel of the Holy Rood, the treasure house whose 6m-thick (18-ft.) walls have over 2,000 precious stones and over 100 painted panels. Trains leave from Prague’s Smíchov Station (at the Smichovské Nádrazí Metro stop) hourly and take about 45 minutes. One-way second-class fare is 27Kc ($1). You can also drive: Leave Prague from the southwest along Highway 4 in the direction of Strakonice and take the Karlstejn cutoff, following the signs. It’ll take about 30 minutes. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 67

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SEEING THE CASTLE The walk up the hill to Karlstejn, along with the view, makes the trip worthwhile. When you reach the top, take some time to look out over the town and down the Well Tower. Tours are 100Kc ($3) and worth it. The Holy Rood Chapel, famous for the more than 2,000 precious and semiprecious inlaid gems adorning its walls, and the Chapel of St. Catherine are amazing. In addition, you can see several rooms, most in the south palace. The Audience Hall and the Imperial Bedroom are impressive, despite being stripped of the original furnishings. In 2003, the castle is scheduled to be open daily except Mondays, from March 1–November 23, and from December 26–31, and Jan 1–4 in 2004. (The castle might be closed during this period for major restoration, check before you go.) The castle opens at 9am, and closing time varies seasonally. For specific dates and hours (including construction updates), check www.hradkarlstejn.cz. WHET YOUR APPETITE The Restaurace Blanky z Valois , on the main street, tries for a Provençal feel. While this cozy place doesn’t exactly take you to France, the covered patio, where most of the eight or so tables are located, can be romantic. The food is pretty good, with wild game like rabbit, boar, and venison the specialty. Main courses are 150Kc to 320Kc ($5–$11). The restaurant is open daily 11am to 10pm. KARLOVY VARY (CARLSBAD) Charles IV’s discovery of Karlovy Vary (www.karlovyvary.cz), 120km (75 miles) west of Prague, could be compared a bit to a 14th-century episode of The Bev- erly Hillbillies. According to local lore, the king was huntin’ for some food when up from the ground came abubblin’ pool. Water that is. Well the first thing you know, old Charles set to work building a small castle and named the town that grew around it Karlovy Vary (Charles’s Boiling Place). The first spa buildings were built in 1522, and before long notables like Peter the Great, Bach, Beethoven, Freud, and Marx were showing up to soak. There is perhaps something in the water there. In May 1998 this little western Bohemian town hosted the first-ever Czech gay pride event, a conference and rally that drew about 150 supporters. The Czech word for fag—teplous— sounds a bit close to the name of the local river—the Tepla—that runs through town. The river’s name means “warm,” but the river definitely is not. Note: Avoid the train from Prague, which takes over 4 hours. If you’re arriving from another direction, Karlovy Vary’s main train station is connected to the town center by bus no. 13. Frequent express buses arrive from Prague’s Florenc 1 station to Karlovy Vary’s námêstí Dr. M. Horákové in about 2 ⁄2 hours. They leave from platform 22 daily at 7, 9, and 9:40am, noon, and 4pm. Take a 10- minute walk or local bus no. 4 into the town center. You’ll need a ticket (6Kc/20¢) to board local transportation. Buy these tickets at the main station stop or, if you don’t have change, at the kiosk across the street during regular business hours. The nearly 2-hour drive from Prague to Karlovy Vary is easy. Take Hwy. E48 from the western end of Prague and follow it straight through to Karlovy Vary. SEEING THE SIGHTS The pedestrian promenades are lined with early- 1900s Art Nouveau buildings and can turn strolling into an art form. Nighttime walks take on a mystical feel as the sewers, the river, and major cracks in the roads emit steam from the hot springs running underneath. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 68

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A good place to start your tour is the Hotel Thermal at the north end of the old town’s center. The 1960s glass, steel, and concrete Thermal sticks out like a sore thumb amid the 19th-century architecture. Nonetheless, a good place for sunning is the large outdoor public pool and the hotel’s upper terrace, boasting a spectacular view. In the same complex are a gym, a sauna, and massage services. As you enter the heart of the town on the river’s west side, you’ll see a white wrought-iron gazebo, the Sadová Kolonáda, in a park, the Dvorakov; Sady. Continue on and you’ll come to the Mlynská Kolonáda, a long covered walkway housing several springs that you can sample free. Bring your own cup, or buy one just anywhere. When you hit the river bend, you’ll see the church of St. Mary Magdalene overlooking the Vrídlo, the hottest spring. A glass building, which once featured a statue of Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin houses Vrídlo, which blasts some 15m (50 ft.) into the air. The statue has since been moved to the Karlovy Vary airport. Now called the Vrídelní Kolonáda, the structure, built in 1974, houses several hot springs that you can sample free daily 7am to 8pm. The building also holds the Kur-Info information center. Heading away from the Vrídelní Kolonáda are Stará and Nova Louka streets, which line either side of the river. Along Stará (Old) Louka are several fine cafes and glass and crystal shops. Nova (New) Louka is lined with hotels and the historic town’s main theater, built in 1886. Both streets lead to the Grandhotel Pupp. Once catering to nobility from all over central Europe, the Pupp still houses one of the town’s best restaurants, the Grand. Atop the hill behind the Pupp is the Diana Lookout Tower. Footpaths lead to the tower through the forests and eventually spit you out at the base, as if to say, “Ha, the trip is only half over.” The five-story climb up the tower tests your stamina, but the view of the town is more than worth it. For those who aren’t up to the climb a cable car runs up every 15 minutes daily 7am to 7pm. WHET YOUR APPETITE A new addition to the pub scene in town, Hospoda U Svejka, Stará Louka 10 (no phone; open daily 11am–11pm), plays on the touristy Good Soldier Svejk theme. Luckily, the tourist trap aura goes no further—inside, you’ll find a refreshingly unsmoky though thoroughly Czech atmosphere. Locals and tourists rub elbows while throwing back some nice lager and pub favorites like goulash and beef tenderloin in cream sauce. After dinner, bliss out at Dobrá Cajovna, Varsarska 13 (& 017/323-0623; open Mon–Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 3–11pm, Sun 3–10pm), a mellow temple of a tearoom that continues Karlovy Vary’s tradition as a healing place. Ambient music washes over “The Good Tearoom,” a bilevel salon with a pillow-strewn lair on the lower level. Choose from more than 80 varieties of tea from all over the world and notify one of the sandal-shoed waiters you’re ready to order by ringing a tiny tabletop brass bell. The tearoom’s menu also lists a range of simple Mediterranean dishes.