519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 17 The Czech Republic: Coming Out of the Past 1by Memphis Barbree The Czech Republic, epicenter of the middle of the western part of the Bohemian power for centuries and country. locked away behind the Iron Curtain Scaffolding, the clinking of stone for half of the 20th century, is more hammers, and trucks full of concrete than a decade out in the fresh air and debris and other general ruckus of free world and in the middle of a construction are common elements of metamorphosis to rival that of any life, especially in Prague. Centuries- Kafka novel. Prague, in particular, is old buildings are getting fresh coats of fashioning a whole new economic and paint and being restored to their full social identity while a world of grandeur. In this old European atmos- beauty-hungry tourists look on. phere, you can almost feel the pres- With the Iron Curtain gone, curios- ence of legendary figures like Holy ity seekers have flooded into Prague, Roman Emperor Charles IV, Franz marveling at the treasures of this Kafka, and adopted son Wolfgang ancient city that were seemingly Amadeus Mozart and where locals and tucked away in mothballs until The guidebooks can and do talk of ghosts Velvet Revolution. Hundreds of years and magic. Believer or no, when you of history are on display, from fairytale see the silhouette of Prague Castle at castles dotting the green hills of the dusk or walk across the river on the St. Bohemian countryside, to baroque Charles bridge at midnight, or stand buildings enlivening the most mun- among the crypts of ancient kings and dane streets. (Hint: Avoid compar- saints in the castle basements, it’s easy isons to Disneyland if you want to to be charmed. score points with any locals.) Homosexual relations have been Who are the locals? Well, mostly legal here since 1961. In Communist Czechs, of course, some Slovaks, a few times gay and lesbian relationships Poles, a sprinkling of Hungarians and were officially ignored as perversions Germans, a dash of Gypsies, and a few or bourgeois indulgences. Threats of “others.” They are mostly atheists, exposure sometimes served as a con- from their recent Communist past, venient threat for the secret police. but about 40% belong to the Roman Many gays and especially lesbians Catholic church. About 10 million stayed closeted and socially isolated. inhabit this rolling, landlocked coun- Since the fall of Communism, gays try squeezed in between Germany, and lesbians are coming out a bit more Austria, Slovakia, and Poland, bor- and working toward societal visibility dered by mountain ranges, and cover- and acceptance. ing about 78,995 sq. km (30,500 In 1990, the Czech parliament low- square miles) (about the size of South ered the age of consent to 15 (18 if Carolina). Prague, the capital city, is in money is involved) for same-sex 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 18 18 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Tips The Crown, Not the Euro Czech currency is the crown or koruna (plural, kuruny), abbreviated Kc. The crown is divided into one hundred heller (h). Bank notes come in denominations of 20Kc, 50Kc, 100Kc, 200Kc, 500Kc, 1,000Kc, 2,000Kc, and 5,000Kc. There are also 10h, 20h, 50h, and 1Kc, 2Kc, 5Kc, 10Kc, and 50Kc coins. At this writing, the U.S. dollar was equivalent to 29Kc. Prices over $5 have been rounded to the nearest dollar. couples, putting them on par with Amsterdam or San Francisco, but their straight counterparts and there Prague is one of the most out and are no restrictions on travel for tourists about cities in Eastern Europe. with HIV. A group formed in 1991, Many gays are slow to come out Sdruzení Organizací Homosexuáních and rather guarded about their private Obcan* (Gay Initiative), coordinates lives. You won’t find much gay PDA the efforts of nearly two dozen gay- (public display of affection) in these rights groups in just about every city. parts. In 1998, they pushed for a bill that You could perhaps expect a country would have created a domestic part- with a playwright as its first post- nership registration. The measure was Communist leader to be fairly homo- defeated by a few votes, but the cam- friendly, and President Václav Havel paign got Czechs talking. (who recently retired after serving Gay bashings aren’t unknown, but three terms) comes by an openness of there hasn’t been a lone galvanizing mind with the help of family—a gay incident to activate gays. The coun- uncle, Milos Havel, left much of his try’s first gay and lesbian event was estate to his nephew. And this is the held in 1998 in the spa town of former home of one of the world’s Karlovy Vary. During a weekend-long most famous lesbians, tennis legend festival cosponsored by the town, Martina Navrátilova. about 150 supporters held a series of Most of my coverage is devoted to discussions and workshops, high- Prague, one of the oldest and most lighted by a tentative yet proud march important centers of history and cul- in the center of town. ture in Europe. Still, I’d advise you to The decades of Communism defi- venture outside the city for a day trip nitely linger, however, and homosexu- or an overnight, so I’ve included sec- ality is taboo to the majority of a fairly tions on Karlstejn Castle, the ancient traditional Czech population. Studies town of Cesk; Krumlov, and the spa from the Czech Republic show that up town of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad). to 40% of young gays and lesbians Though Praguers can be fairly cosmo- who come out get turned out of their politan in their attitudes, outside the homes by parents and about 20% get city you may encounter less enlight- sent to a doctor. Prague is where many ened views, just as you might in many gay Czechs choose to live. It is still no small towns in the United States. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 19 1 Prague: Art & Eastern European Seduction The beauty of Prague sends romantic Maybe it will be the light and shadows hearts dancing through the cobble- dancing among centuries-old baroque, stone streets. Just the name—Praha in Gothic, and Art Nouveau buildings Czech—is alluring. and all those heroic and romantic stat- During the more than half a cen- ues atop buildings and framing door- tury it was mostly cut off to the West ways. Perhaps it will be the tower bells by Communism, like a princess in a noting the passing hours or the ghosts tower, Prague developed an air of mys- of centuries that shimmer and whisper tery and romance. In her early in every corner, cobblestone street and postrevolutionary era, the city set its ancient stone facade. Then there are energies to work seducing travelers. the people themselves, with their shy Now the city is still full of history, charm and sparkling eyes. You will, at charm, and romance with Gothic the least, understand what took the churches rubbing shoulders with Bel Ami producers to Prague (you’ve cubist functionalist and ultramodern at least heard of that classic flick). buildings and classical music melding Among all this silk and lace and with jazz and rock. Prague’s character romance, is an edge born of the new is luscious: It’s rich, romantic, and capitalist economy. This can make it intoxicating—with many restoration necessary to rein yourself in from your projects completed and others under- romantic roaming to watch both heart way or planned, Prague seems to be and wallet. Prague can be a bit of a getting more beautiful with age. frontier town where everybody is out What will win your heart first? Per- to make his or her mark and buck. But haps it will be the Czech language as it don’t let this stop a love affair. Simply plays on your ears like the waters off keep your eyes open and brain on and the St. Charles Bridge at sunset. then dive in and enjoy! 1 Prague Essentials ARRIVING & DEPARTING BY PLANE About 20km (13 miles) from the center of Prague, Ruzynê Air- port (& 22011 3321 or 22011 3314; www.csa.cz) is small and simple, but with most of the conveniences you’ll need. Luggage carts are available at the entrance to the baggage claim area. You can stow your luggage for 30Kc (about $1) per bag per day. The main terminal has a Czech Airlines (CSA) tourism office (& 22011 3743 or 22056 2599; www.csa.cz) with airport shuttle bus tickets, a hotel booking service and tour service, a branch of Cedok (the Czech travel agency) with its own hotel booking service, a hotel call-board with many options, shops, ATMs, bank and money exchange counters, a newspaper stand, several restaurants, and major car-rental agencies. 519808 Ch01.qxd 3/20/03 9:32 AM Page 20 20 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Prague At the stand outside the terminal, the going rate for taxis is about 650Kc ($22) to Prague 1 and 720Kc ($25) to Prague 2. Note: It’s not a good idea to take one of the taxis waiting at the airport or immediately outside; there have been many reports of scams and overcharging. We recommend that you only use a taxi service that you can call and reserve in advance, and to check with your hotel for the reputable companies of the moment. A gay-operated transport is available and with advance arrangement a driver will meet you in the arrival hall, holding a sign with your name and take you to your destination, and can answer questions about the gay scene in Prague.