specialityfoodmagazine.com February 2019 £3.25 SPECIALITY FOOD NEWS, COMMENT AND BUYING IDEAS FOR FINE FOOD RETAILERS

P24 PLASTIC OPINION VIEWPOINT P32 SIAN SUTHERLAND, ROSE GRIMOND, RENÉE ELLIOTT, A PLASTIC PLANET: NETTLEBED PLANET ORGANIC 2019: A YEAR OF RADICAL CREAMERY: & BELUGA BEAN: DISRUPTION IN FOOD THE IMPORTANCE OF HOW MY ORGANIC AND DRINK P. 8 DIVERSIFICATION P. 25 JOURNEY BEGAN P. 30 2

OPINION 22 30 4 John Shepherd EDITOR’S MD of Partridges LETTER 6 Charles Campion food writer and critic 8 Sian Sutherland A Plastic Planet 25 Michael Smales Lyburn Creamery elcome to the 25 Rose Grimond February issue of Nettlebed Creamery Speciality Food. 38 Anna Haugh WThis has been an inspiring London-based chef issue for us to put together, as, like many people in the UK, REGULARS the team is becoming more and more conscious of the impact 11 Food Matters: 28 that our decisions have on the Sustainable Retail environment (and ourselves). We've looked at the ethical side 12 Trend Watch to the food and drink industry on page 22, where we talk to eco- 24 Counter Point: minded businesses and those Sampling using their position to do good. We've spoken to Renée Elliott, 26 Cheese Uncut founder of Planet Organic and co-founder of Beluga Bean, about 30 The Interview: her pioneering business and Renee Elliott, Planet how her journey in recognising Organic and Beluga Bean the benefits of an organic approach began (p. 30). This 38 Last Words issue also contains a piece about sustainable retail, and the steps FEATURES you can take to get started (p. 11). You'll also find a preview of 14 Follow the Crowd BlasCymru/Taste Wales 2019 (p. 16), my picks of the products 16 BlasCymru/Taste on show at the upcoming IFE Wales 2019 (p. 6), a selection of delightful afternoon tea treats (p. 20) 17 Essential Products and so much more. 20 Centre Spread: Afternoon Tea Holly [email protected] 22 The New Ethics 28 Are Markets the Future of Retail? 31 The Big Chill 34 In From the Cold 36 Champagne Comes

In this issue to England

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rexit fatigue is giving way Great Britain is considered export to contingency planning as I'm being forced to rethink. Imagine tensions build over supply not being able to trade with part of Blogistics, according to reports from a your country!” Others agree. “It's number of fine food businesses. Stockpiling: business as usual,” says Sheffield For indie retailers in the fine food baker Jane Stammers of Tipple Tails. sector, the question 'to stockpile “I can't afford to stockpile enough to or not?' is as divisive an issue as make a difference, and what will be membership of the EU itself. “I have will be. I'm more interested in the actually built a warehouse and filled a Brexit dilemma changing retail environment on our it with months of grocery supply,” high streets, but don't think anyone is said Andreas Georghiou, who runs A Brexit-weary industry is divided in its paying much attention to that!” a premium greengrocers in Chelsea The British Retail Consortium has Green. “However, that will not preparations for possible disruption ahead, previously pointed out the challenges help with our fresh fruit and veg.” of leaving the EU at the end of March, Others are taking similar measures. according to Speciality Food readers when British seasonal produce has “We're likely to stockpile at least yet to hit shelves and pre-Easter on best sellers,” tweeted The Red that stockpiling is part of its Humphrey of whisky subscription Larger manufacturers are also taking stocking will be at its height. “Except Beetle, an e-tailer specialising in contingency planning; retailer Summerton Club, “so we steps; cereal bar brand Eat Natural is for early December, it’s hard to think authentic Italian food. “It's not ideal and Sainsbury's are reportedly not made sure two years ago that it reportedly importing extra Belgian of a more problematic time for Brexit for cashflow, plus it's always risky holding extra stock. didn't matter. As alcohol doesn't chocolate to ensure a steady supply to be scheduled for and this will only to have too much stock sitting there, Despite the arguments for making move freely in the EU currently, but won't be stockpiling for its exacerbate the impact on our supply but unless there's an agreement and extra provision, some point to the what happens in the long run doesn't made-to-order bars. Others are more chains and British consumers,” a plan before mid to late February, economic difficulties of this short- impact us as much as others, we fatalistic. “I refuse to waste time and blogged the BRC's director of food I have no other choice. I can't term strategy. “We will not be are just talking to more non-EU energy on something so uncertain and sustainability, Andrew Opie, have an empty store and need stockpiling,” said a spokesperson at suppliers now.” as the Brexit outcome,” says Kalina back in October. happy customers.” Millars General Store, a wholefood For manufacturers, guaranteeing Halatcheva, founder of snack brand In the absence of a clear picture Last month it emerged that shop in South London specialising access to raw materials – especially Nouri Health. “When it comes we of how the next few months will pan has retained its extra provision of in vegan food and drink. “With perishable items that rely on will deal with it in the best way out, many food and drink businesses freezers, originally rented to increase sales flat-lining and costs rising we frictionless transit across EU possible, but meanwhile it's business are taking each days as it comes. capacity for Christmas, to stockpile wouldn't have the money to do so. borders – is a real headache. “We've as usual with so many other things “It's business as usual for us,” says extra frozen foods. The retailer's Or the space. It's probably best for been stockpiling for sometime now to worry about.” Sanjay Aggarwal of West Midlands' contingency planning for Brexit will the shelves to have empty spaces as and will be ordering more to store “I'm not stockpiling as the outlay spice blend maker Spice Kitchen. see the extra storage running for the quick as possible; it would keep us after last nights result,” said Adam is prohibitive and I can't buy enough “There's no point in worrying about rest of 2019, with chief executive on our toes regarding new routes Barlow, founder of indulgent snack to make a difference,” says Northern Brexit when we have no idea what Dave Lewis telling reporters Tesco to different produce earlier.” Not brand Simply Trios, the day after the Ireland-based confectioner Linda is happening. It feels a little like the is “working with our suppliers to everyone has been affected; traders Government's Withdrawal Bill was McGibbon, whose company Sea Millenium bug for us!” think through sensible opportunities in non-perishables may escape the defeated. “We've run out of room in Sugar retails online. “Plus, there are Are you stockpiling? Share your to improve stockholding closer to worst of the stress. “This drama our own storage facility and will be more pressing issues. The island of story with us via email to editorial@ the market.” M&S has also revealed was easy to predict,” says Daniel having to rent our further space.” Ireland is my main market and now specialityfoodmagazine.com

specialityfoodmagazine.com 4 FRA annual JOHN conference SHEPHERD OF PARTRIDGES approaches The annual conference of the Farm Retailing Association “We need to talk about (FRA), previously known as FARMA, will take place in Oxford this month, bringing a Christmas” network of farm retailers and n the final article I wrote at the end When mariners at sea in years gone suppliers together for a packed of last year I suggested it could be by, including Christopher Columbus, programme of conference I a successful Christmas based on looked for land they analysed clouds, seminars, workshops, trade the fact that there were four ‘good’ rainfall, floating sticks and telltale birds stands and a roving networking shopping Saturdays before the big for signs of its proximity. Are there dinner. Workshops include day. Another theory bites the dust! similar signs to suggest that Christmas a host of current industry The general opinion is that it was a remains as significant as it has always issues, including emerging bad Christmas, based on numerous been for retailers? Gourmet food takes centre technologies, margins and trading results from the big retailers. Although it seems likely that the manpower, influencer Two other narratives seem to have rush is coming later, by looking at our stage at TuttoFood 2019 marketing, HR advice, and emerged along the lines that the rush sales figures I have noticed that the customer experience. starts later and later each year and Christmas week in 2018 provided 34% In only six editions, TuttoFood gourmet pizza will be under the A keynote speech on 'Cutting that Christmas is no longer the force of the monthly sales. In 2010 it was has become an essential show spotlight alongside special breads, Through the Noise' by Sticky it used to be. (As for the four ‘good’ 36%, in 1999 it was 38% and in 1995 it to discover the most original ready-made bases or snacks. Marketing will kick off the event, Saturdays theory – RIP). contributed 40% of the total monthly food innovations. The 2019 If your focus is on natural and there will also escorted At first glance these two narratives sales. So the theory that the rush is edition, at Milan’s Fieramilano foods, you don’t want to miss coach tours of local farm retail seem to have merit. For us December coming later may actually depend Exhibition Centre from 6th to TuttoGreen, where you’ll find all outlets themed around three got off to a slow start: 3.1% down more on the day of the week that 9th May, looks set to continue the best in terms of macrobiotic retail issues: Planning for Growth; in the first week, 3.3% down in the Christmas falls on. the tradition. Wine buyers products, herbal products, vegan Merchandising Matters; and second week, 6.4% up in Christmas Similarly, the view that ‘Fings ain’t will find TuttoWine, the new products and organic products. Millets In Depth, a case study of week and ending up just 0.3% by what they used to be’ regarding wine hub focusing on select At the previous edition in 2017, retail diversification. An awards New Year’s Eve just like Tesco! One Christmas sales in general also looks operators that combines a TuttoFood’s multi-faceted dinner will name the winners in thing did not help was Storm Deirdre. shaky. I do not have much evidence specialised exhibition area, exhibition concept attracted industry categories including best I cannot speak lowly enough of this to back this up, but over the past L’Enoteca di TuttoWine, with more than 80,000 professional farmer's market, best pick your meteorological phenomenon. On five years Christmas has steadfastly events and meetings. visitors from 141 countries, the own, and associate member of the Saturday 15th December we were produced 11.7% of our annual sales. In If you want to entice your foodie most represented being Spain, year. The two day event, which down 14.5% on the previous year. It 1995 it was just under 11%. Over the customers with new and innovative France, Germany, China, the runs from 25th to 27th February, was not just ‘A rainy day in London same period, November has declined products, more opportunities will United States, the Netherlands, takes place at the Double Tree by Town’, to misquote Mr Sinatra, it was by nearly 1%. be on display at TuttoDeli, the the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Hilton Oxford Belfry Hotel. To more ’Darkness at Noon’ by Arthur Undoubtedly trading conditions section devoted to delicatessen, Canada and Belgium. The last learn more, and book your place, Koestler. Storm Deirdre therefore were very difficult in 2018 and freeze-dried ready-made meals, show clocked an impressive 82.6% visit farmretailassociation.co.uk. takes its rightful place in Shepherd’s Christmas provided little relief, but sauces and condiments and typical positive satisfaction index among The Farm Retail Association Mammoth Book of Excuses. It is perhaps there are a few ‘floating sticks regional products. Other no-miss visitors,who included some 18,400 will also be present at April's important to record that online sales and telltale birds’ that indicate we may sections will be TuttoBakery, buyers, 69% of them from the Farm Shop & Deli Show at for us grew by 48% in December (eat see an end in sight. The problem for where the new interpretations of import and distribution sectors. Birmingham's NEC. your heart out Deirdre) and without Christopher Columbus on his quest this Christmas sales would have for the new world was that from the been disappointing. first sighting of floating sticks on However, despite the slew of September 16th 1492 land was not disappointing retail sales figures in the actually sighted until 12th October. By UK and abroad, was the Christmas then the crew were close to mutiny. trading season really as bad as it is There is still a long way to go for a being made out? Has there been a general recovery, but the importance disconnect between perception and of Christmas for us is still unassailable reality? in the speciality food calendar.

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6 Must-visit stands at IFE 2019 As one of the biggest shows in the food and drink industry's calendar, IFE – the International Food & Drink Event, CHARLES taking place 17th-20th March at ExCeL London – is full of innovative new products and brands worth knowing. From items which tap into current trends to inspiring examples of what's to come, the show is awash with excitement. CAMPION Here, Holly Shackleton, editor of Speciality Food, shines the spotlight on some of the products worth seeking out when you visit the show.

“How did you get on with LICKALIX SINGLE COCO 100% natural, gluten-free VARIETY CO. CHOCOLATIER Veganuary?” and dairy-free, Lickalix Getting back Edinburgh-based lollies sure do tick a lot to simple, good artisan chocolatier ast year saw the rise and rise of & Spencer launches a vegan shoe of boxes. They also offer quality food and COCO is a great vegan food. 'Plant-based food' collection. Hellmann’s brought out drinkers looking for a new drink is a trend example of a delicious became a watchword for a new a vegan mayo. There’s even an ice L way to enjoy their favourite we're set to see food product which kind of dish and it quickly became a cream bar called the Vegan Classic tipple an innovative way a lot more of, seamlessly merges case of be there or be square. Where Magnum – the skimmed milk in the to do so. There are seven and The Single into the gifting once restaurants had a grudging original has been replaced by pea options in the range: from Variety Co. is a sector. Every bar is solitary vegetarian dish on the menu protein. This is a bandwagon that will Strawberry & Banana to poster brand for made using ethical (all too often a puckered up stuffed never be short of passengers. But how Natural Cola and Alcoholic Pina this movement. Its full-flavoured and single origin chocolate sourced from vegetable), now vegan foods get to can a small retailer respond in a way Colada Cocktail – plenty of choice varied range – think chilli jams and Colombia and is palm oil-free, too strut their stuff. There are posh vegan that generates the niche sales they to satisfy discerning slurpers. preserves made with everything from – plus, the dark chocolate bars are restaurants and veggie items are need justify selling these uber-trendy After a busy day at IFE, an ice Maravilla Raspberries to Alphonso vegan. The eye-catching packaging already trialling for both McDonalds new options? lolly is just what the doctor Mango – is packaged in eye-catching is designed bespoke by independent and Greggs – at last you can opt for a It also becomes important to avoid ordered, right? glass jars to boot. artists based from Glasgow to Berlin. vegetarian Happy Meal, or perhaps the the over stocking that leads to a store- lickalix.com singlevariety.co.uk cocochocolatier.com vegan sausage roll appeals? The term room stuffed with products marooned vegan was only coined in 1944 and it is as the spotlight moves on to the next under pressure from revisionists who big thing. The trend towards veganism APE SNACKS THE BIG LAND & TIDE Naturally BANANA When a product prefer 'plant-based foods' or even, is a strong one and seems to have BREAD CO. for the comprehensive approach, built upon a couple of intelligent pre- delicious and comes along which A delicious 'flexitarian'. cursors – meat-free Mondays or the great for on the go, ticks a number of combination of The days are gone when angry concept of flexitarians. These initiatives Ape Snacks' range trend boxes you've ethically-sourced vegans show the rest of us footage are remarkable if only because there’s of coconut-based got to pay attention. bananas, free- from secret filming in slaughter no mention of money. Vegan food snack packs – Land & Tide makes range eggs and a houses as part of a moral crusade. tends to cost more than its regular available in Curls, delicious ready to feel-good blend of The PR battle ground has got much equivalent, but for once the public Puffs and Bites, in drink iced coffees fibre, potassium, busier and more sophisticated. This seems happy to pay a premium. The flavours including using a smooth protein, magnesium and vitamins will be painfully obvious to anyone vegan banner flies proudly over ethical Cheese, Lightly Salted blend of cold brew B6 and C – all baked into a satisfying living in the Dorset village of Wool. The shopping, cooking and eating. There and Thai Chilli – are great for coffee and alternative milks, using slice of banana bread – sounds good, PETA group (People for the Ethical are said to be 10 million people in Britain snackers of all ages who require an no sugar, to create such delicious right? I agree. Even better, these Treatment of Animals) floated a story who are vegetarians, which sounds on-the-go snack, and for customers options as Oat Iced Coffee and filling treats contain no artificial suggesting that the village name of like a lot. Until you turn it round and say following a plant-based diet Oat Iced Mocha. All packaged up colours, flavours, sweeteners or Wool should be changed to Vegan there are about fifty million people who (although non-vegan snackers in eye-catching sustainable preservatives. Wool because merely calling it Wool are not vegetarians. So, on the one will enjoy these too!) packaging, too. was disrespectful of sheep. Before you hand we have food items that don’t apesnacks.com bigbananabread.com landandtide.com look at the calendar, this all happened taste quite as good as the originals and many months away from April Fool’s cost more than the basic dishes. The Day. There’s another pinch of irony battle will not be fought in the home in discovering that Wool in Dorset is kitchens but rather on the fringes of named after the Anglo-Saxon usage the marketplace, and the vegan lobby “wul” which means freshwater spring have the nous and savvy to make the – sheep don’t get a mention. most of their opportunity. Meanwhile Meanwhile, retailers both large the rest of us wait and see. and small will spend 2019 seeking Anyone for some the vegan seal of approval. Marks Fishless Fingers?

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Jamie's Shell delis Muddled retail figures start trading Trading is underway at 500 'Jamie 'could be misleading' Oliver by Shell' food counters, offering deli-style, ready-to-eat seasons, and fortunes often fluctuate wraps, salads and sandwiches to depending on many variable factors British motorists. The counters, like fashions coming and going. which officially opened on 31st Jan, Sometimes small retailers perform promise to deliver 'bigger, better better than large retailers.” choice – with fresh ideas, fantastic Tracking sales in a dynamic, flavours and clever twist'. Critics multi-channel retail scene may have been swift to comment on the continue to yield unhelpful ethics of teaming with Shell, one of statistics, but Professor the world's top ten carbon dioxide Chakraborty says some trends are Wine buyers welcome emitters, given Jamie's previous stance on climate change. A business academic has clear. “For sure, 2019 is going to be a suggested indie retailers should tough year for the retail sector,” she back Wineteca be wary of reported retail commented “and especially for the Leicester deli figures, following contradictory high street. Political uncertainties Next month sees the return to London of Wineteca, the trade and shuts up shop stats on December trading from about Brexit will feed through to press event that showcases 50 of the most distinguished cellars in two leading sources. economic uncertainties resulting Italian wine production. An award-winning Leicester The figures released last month in firms delaying investment Industry professionals are invited to walkaround tastings to sample fine deli shut its doors last month, saw the British Retail Consortium decisions and consumers being wines featured in the authoritative Vini d’Italia 2019. This year's guide lists the with the owner citing low footfall. (BRC) report the weakest more careful with their regular favourite bottles chosen by 70 experts working through a long list of 40,000 Sangita Tryner told local press that December sales in a decade whilst spending. While online retailing wines from more than 2,530 wineries around Italy. Visitors will have the Delilah Deli would close its doors the Office for National Statistics will inevitably continue to grow, opportunity to taste 'Tre Bicchieri' winners, selected through blind tastings after two and a half years of trading (ONS) suggested a year-on-year shopping in physical stores will and a panel selection process. to allow herself and husband growth of 2.7% across the same continue to be attractive when The event, which takes place on 26th March at Westminster's Royal Richard focus on their remaining period. “Comparisons with it engages consumers as a social Horticultural Halls, will include two masterclasses sharing insights into the Nottingham store. "There's so different sizes of retailers could and interactive activity, as well wines present, and the Italian wine industry itself. many things you can blame," she be misleading, because retailers as entertaining. Nothing beats Wineteca will also showcase a special selection of the best value for money told Leicestershire Live. "Maybe perform differently in the sector good, friendly customer service wines awarded in the Berebene guide. The so-called 'smartwines' can be changing some of the car parks to and over time,” said Professor and beautiful store displays. This purchased in Italy for less than €13 without compromising on quality. With open spaces wasn't the right decision. Ratula Chakraborty, professor is where independent retailers importers, distributors, sommeliers, agents and buyers coming together in It could just be Brexit. It could be of business management at the excel and they must use it to their celebration of Italy's finest wines, all supported by the Italian Chamber of so many things." The surviving University of East Anglia's Norwich advantage over big bland retailers Commerce and Industry for the UK, Wineteca is set to make its mark on the incarnation of the store, which Business School. “Individual and the dreary soulless experience profile of Italy's fine wines in the UK. opened its doors in Nottingham in retailers can have good and bad of online.” For details on exhibitors and to book your ticket visit winetecalondon.co.uk 2005, is reportedly thriving.

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panels, meet-the-expert roundtables, food tech founder success stories, and new, disruptive approaches set to transform the future of sustainable food and drink. Food tech innovators SIAN SUTHERLAND, from all over the world will showcase the technologies set to pave the way A PLASTIC PLANET for the future of food, and the tailored one-to-one meetings programme provides the perfect networking “Shining examples of opportunity for start-ups, corporates and investors to connect. plastic-free change” "It’s an exciting time for the global food tech market, with an expected n November last year an adopt an approach that addresses growth to over £196bn by 2022," independent North London the public’s worries. Rather than act, comments event director Briony I unveiled the UK’s leading fast-moving consumer goods Mansell-Lewis. "The number of first Plastic Free Zones in a move that brands like Coca Cola have gone in Industry prepares for investors backing food and drink made headlines across the globe. the opposite direction, increasing start-ups has tripled in four years and While major with their production of single-use plastic even big manufacturers are getting in massive financial firepower use every bottles by 1 billion in 2017 rather Food Tech Matters on the funding action. Technology is excuse in the book to dodge real than rolling it back. Didn’t they proving to be a game-changer when change, Thornton’s in Belsize get the memo? Preparations are underway for Building on the success of the first it comes to producing sustainable, Park are offering concrete proof that Independent food stores and Food Tech Matters – 'the most event in November which attracted nutritious food." we needn’t wait for the radical plastic- speciality food producers are influential international food- innovation leaders from brands Registration for the event opens free future that we so badly need. the lifeblood of our gastronomic tech meet' – which will bring over including Nestle, PepsiCo and Kerry 4th February 2019, with early Britain’s first Plastic Free Zones economy. And it is these brands 400 of the most disruptive food Foods, the June's edition is set to be bird discount saving £99 on a are filled with everything from fresh that are showing a level of vision tech innovators from all over the bigger and better with an exciting standard delegate rate of £349 plus fruit and vegetables to wild game unmatched by their larger rivals. globe to London's Tobacco Dock two-day agenda line-up featuring VAT. For more information visit meat and bacon. They even have an Nimble disrupter brands are rising this June. investor and consumer insight foodtechmatters.com eco-station with plastic free cleaning to the challenge set by consumers, products, scrubbers and beeswrap. scrapping plastic right across their With goods liberated from the product offering. Percol Coffee are shackles of thick indestructible plastic leading the way in driving plastic-free packaging, the Zones give shoppers innovation in their market. Last year the chance to connect with food Percol Coffee took the initiative to SSFS starts show again. To smell it. To touch it. To ensure the four million products they enjoy it. Just how food shopping sell each year are packaged plastic- is meant to be. free as part of its ‘Coffee on a Mission’ A Plastic Planet project director, rebrand. The biggest rebrand in its season with a bang Frankie Gillard, pretty much lived 30-year history, it saw the company in the store for 10 weeks, working adopt A Plastic Planet’s Plastic Free Scotland’s Speciality Food editor Holly Shackleton compered the show fresh and interesting for the with the in-store team and suppliers Trust Mark. We introduced the Show, the first British fine food a 'Nessie's Den', a fun session with buyers. This show was no exception to fast-track what other larger Trust Mark last year in a bid to give trade show of the year, saw the new exhibitors pitching to buyers. and buyers seemed to enjoy the stores say isn’t possible. 10 weeks consumers a sure-fire way of quickly highest number of exhibitors for “Scottish food and drink just variety and depth of product to take over 1700 product lines identifying those products that are a decade when it opened doors keeps getting better and better," available, particularly from the plastic free. And customers are loving plastic-free and therefore guilt-free. at Glasgow's SECC last month. commented show director Mark regional food groups who supported it. With the exception of plastic-free A host of brands are set to join Percol Around 175 speciality food and Saunders. "Every year we see new at least 25 small unknown suppliers pioneer Iceland, few of the grocery and Iceland as Trust Mark holders drink producers showcased their suppliers springing up which keeps all seeking a toehold in the market.” big-boys have done anything close throughout 2019. products, with farm shops, delis, to matching the gutsy, solutions- 2019 is all set to be a year of radical hotels, cafés and restaurants focused spirit that has become par for disruption across food and drink. The showing confidence despite the the course amongst Britain’s UK is blessed with a vibrant mix of political upheaval underway. great disrupters. truly pioneering food and drink brands. “The Scottish Speciality Food The demand for this change is We are the envy of the world in so and Trade Fair is always a must coming from the shoppers. Fed up many ways. Competition is fierce do on our calendar and this year of supermarket aisles overflowing and it’s clear that brands that truly didn’t disappoint," commented Sue with plastic packaging, the public embrace innovation will thrive going Montgomery of Ardardan Estate's is clamouring for a change to the forward. Those that don’t will quickly farm shop. "It’s a great opportunity status quo. More than 90 per cent of lose ground on their rivals. It’s high to see what’s new in the industry, respondents in a Populus poll raised time major supermarkets embraced blether with current suppliers and serious concerns about the impact the ultra-creative approach of find a few new jewels to stock in our of plastic pollution and supported the Britain’s great disrupters. farm and gift shop.” introduction of a Plastic Free Aisle in A Plastic Planet will be exhibiting at Seminars and workshops were their supermarket. But 12 months Pro2Pac at ExCeL London on 18th- well attended, and Speciality Food on, major brands have done little to 20th March.

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SOURCE. SAMPLE. SUCCEED. Speciality success starts at the Farm Shop & Deli Show. Come and meet key suppliers, gain non-stop industry inspiration and find profit boosting ways to get your business on top in 2019.

This is a trade event. No under 16s will be admitted TO REGISTER TO ATTEND OR ENQUIRE ABOUT EXHIBITING PLEASE VISIT: @FarmShop Deli #FSD2019 farmshopanddelishow.co.uk _ ALONGSIDE HOME TO 10

UK overtakes 'Think beyond foodbanks' Germany for vegan launches says industry outreach group A charitable fund created by businesses from Suffolk's food and Research from market watchers drink sector is calling for other regions to roll out its model and think Mintel has reported that the UK has beyond foodbanks to instigate change in rural communities. overtaken Germany as the world's The Suffolk Community Foundation’s (SCF) Food and Drink Fund was hottest marketplace for vegan food launched in October to spread the benefits of the regions thriving fine food and drink launches. “Consumers scene to those in the county affected by poverty, loneliness, poor mental are becoming more willing than health and lack of education. More than £80,000 in donations has been ever to expand their comfort zones,” received to date, but the fund is keen to think beyond food banks when it says Mintel's global food and drink comes to allocating the precious cash. analyst Edward Bergen. “To push “What really hit home to the grant-making committee was the diversity themselves to the limit with new of the projects who successfully applied,” says fund chair Paddy Bishopp. experiences and use social media to Grants have ben made to community-led activity projects for the vulnerable compete with and offer inspiration and isolated, a 'Rural Coffee Caravan' that provides active respite from to their peers.” loneliness, and many more diverse projects. “Food and drink is not just fuel Community shop for life,” says Paddy. “It helps bring people together and support those less Value of retail fortunate. We need to celebrate the food and drink of Suffolk but we also sector contracts need to use it to make a difference.” Learn more at suffolkfoodanddrink.co.uk property hit by The trend for growth in community shops has reversed, with numbers of online sales community-owned outlets falling for the first time, according to data from The Plunkett Foundation. The organisation's Better Form of Business report The impact on rising online showed that 346 community shops were trading by the end of 2017, generating sales versus bricks and mortar is a combined turnover of 53m and contributing more than £100,000 to local Settlement scheme impacting on the value of retail projects. “This year we are delighted to see trading figures that continue to property, according to new research. demonstrate how community businesses are at the forefront of strengthening A report released by real estate the rural economy,” says James Alcock, the Plunkett Foundation's executive fee scrap welcomed experts Altus Group forecasts that director. “As well as saving vital rural services such as shops, the stand out values of retail property could fall by success of community businesses is found in the social impact they achieve.” 15.9% this year, with 62% of major The organisation did, however, acknowledge problems with the model. by industry UK property owners reporting that “For the first time, we are in fact seeing a decline in the growth of community e-commerce is damaging the trade shops,” added James. “This is an area of concern for us and shows how running The Government's decision to The FDF was one of the first trade in commercial real estate. a community business requires ongoing support and investment.” ditch a £65 fee for EU citizens organisations to call for certainty applying to stay – and work – in for EU nationals,. And says it's the UK has been applauded by an encouraged by the development. industry hardened to bad news. “Further work is now needed to Raided farm shop owner calls for powers “We welcome today’s make sure the right to stay and announcement that the the Settlement Scheme is swiftly of self-defence for rural businesses Government is planning on and effectively communicated scrapping the fee associated with to eligible EU citizens wishing to A farm shop owner whose gone to a dodgy meat dealer." before anyone arrives. These guys the EU Settlement Scheme,” said stay in the UK,” said Mr Wright, Christmas meat orders were It's the ninth time Johnsons, had baseball bats, crowbars and bolt Ian Wright, chief executive of the “and that employers are provided targeted by thieves has called on which has a shop, steakhouse croppers. The only thing that can alter Food and Drink federation. “The with the tools needed to support the Government to allow rural restaurant and tea room on the farm the balance is if it's legal for me to food and drink manufacturing their workforce. The ongoing lack businesses more freedoms to premises, has been targeted. "From confront them, and if necessary shoot industry employs 117,000 highly of certainty for business about fight back. information we've got as a result them in the legs. That's the only way valued EU workers, making up our immediate and longer-term Andy Johnson disturbed thieves of rewards I believe their intention we'll protect rural businesses. The almost a third of our workforce, relationship with our nearest and at his storeroom at Johnsons of would have been to trample and Government has to change the law to and their contribution to our biggest trading partner continues to Old Hurst near Huntingdon at spray everything in the fridge to say that with trespassers on your land sector is vital. undermine business confidence.” 10pm on 23rd December. The make it look like the work of vegan it's within your rights to fire warning balaclava-wearing gang made off activists," said Andy. "My advice to shots and then protect yourself and with £20,000-worth of meat. "In the any other shops that have something your property if they come at you." first moments I assumed everything similar is take stock of what's actually Andy's Christmas orders were was gone – I had 30 grands-worth been taken." honoured with help from the Label confusion sees of orders to go out the next day – but Security on site has been business's 70 staff, whose Christmas as we cleared up it was obvious the tightened, but Andy believes turkeys were returned to fill orders, allergy sufferers struggle meat was stolen to order," Andy told Government needs to act to help and who worked to slaughter extra Speciality Food. "We had over 300 rural businesses protect their livestock, butcher and pack to fill Just 37% of British consumers find it easy to spot which allergens Christmas orders boxed up but [the property. "Even if I'd seen [the gang] gaps. "We lost £5,000 on normal shop a product is free from by studying the label, suggests a new report. thieves] went through everything early and rung the police, that's a takings on Christmas Eve but every The findings, from Mintel, suggest an obstacle in growth of the free-from specifically taking 14lb turkeys and 15-minute wait. Alarms don't bother customer who'd placed an order got market – estimated to be worth £837m in 2018 – since 48% of Brits say they pigs in blankets. It must have them, they know they've got time what they wanted." or someone in their household avoids at least one ingredient.

@specialityfood FOOD MATTERS In association with

HOW TO START

Promote customers to bring their own containers to any fresh counters you have (which are already staffed with weighing scales so an easy transition) – this will help you build towards selling in bulk elsewhere in the store Talk to your customers – what packaging are they frustrated with, and how can you help them? Look at financing. A lot of kit can be financed at a reasonable rate which allows you to spread the cost

he subject of waste is big tricky because being zero waste we with the system, they’ll find it news right now, in the food SUSTAINABLE don’t want food waste,” says Tom. a breeze. The initial hump is in T industry and beyond. Across “It’s a question of having things getting them over to move from the sector – from foodservice and in stock so people know it’s there single use to refill, so be very clear chefs to manufacturers and retail but not too much.” Pricing is also in how you want them to shop, and – professionals are looking at new an issue, particularly so when the make it easy for them to do so – for ways to address this growing threat pair are sourcing from local, artisan example, special offers the first time to the environment. From avoiding producers. “Trying to balance the they refill, holding an event with food waste to excess packaging, amount we buy – keeping our ethos lots of staff to talk them through it the industry is offering support of local products – can be tricky,” etc.” Jeanette agrees: “It’s a case of to retailers. RETAIL says Jeanette. making sure people are prepared How is retail satisfying consumer Leah Riley Brown, sustainability For Tom and Jeanette, the task when they come in, and know our policy advisor at the British Retail demand for sustainability, of going entirely zero waste is “a product range. People come in with Consortium said, “The BRC’s Better journey more than a destination. If baskets, containers, re-used cheese Retail Better World initiative builds and can more be done? you see it as a destination you’re only wraps... It’s going really well for uss.” on a framework set out by the UN’s going to lose.” It’s a journey we’re all The move to refill could be Sustainable Development Goals in 2006. Since then, the business an audit of all of these areas, gain on: “I recommend customers try to a relatively easy transition for (SDGs) to drive greater industry has evolved to help other shops an understanding of where the eliminate one thing every couple of independents in the sense that their cooperation and signatories are integrate bulk and refills into their business is at, have a vision of weeks, not overwhelm themselves customers are quite open minded committed to reducing greenhouse offer – allowing customers to reuse where you want the business to get because otherwise they’re going already – they’re shopping at indies gas emissions, cutting deforestation, packaging or bring receptacles to, and make a clear commitment to feel defeated. Don’t overwhelm for the experience, so will be open to improving plastic packaging and from home, and retailers to sell and timeline of how you will reach yourself. It’s a long process.” new ways of doing things. Jeanette eliminating modern slavery.” So products loose; in effect offering your goals. Such a timeline should points out, though, that in terms retail is part of a wider framework a sustainable shopping experience be sustainable and manageable – INVESTMENT AND EDUCATION of managing this new approach, of environmentally-conscious and avoiding the use of unnecessary it’s better to take longer and do it Changing your business model “Having no packaging makes it business. How can independents single-use plastic. properly than try and do everything to be more sustainable can mean labour intensive because you have get involved? “Responsible retailers “Sustainable retail is about at once, and give up because it’s a considerable investment, and to clean dispensers, do a lot more are progressively and collaboratively a lot more than selling some too much work.” Catherine agrees that the kit does back end work.” working to help consumers navigate refills,” says Catherine. “To be truly Efforts to go waste-free comes cost money – “but a properly So why should you and your the challenge of buying ethically sustainable retailers must take a with its own problems, as Tom Pells designed refill set up with save customers make the change? sourced and produced products on holistic look at their supply chain, and Jeanette Wong, co-owners of money in the long run because Catherine answers: “Customers the high street. Examples of how back of house, front of house and The Clean Kilo, a zero waste retailer there will be less staff time involved will save money. Bulk products our members are addressing the the products they sell.” But how to in Birmingham explain. “In terms in helping customers; messaging are better value than pre-packs, challenges of sustainability include get going? “The first step is always of stock, fresh produce is really will help the area look abundant especially when the product is cutting down on the use of black and confident, which will generate coming directly from the producer.” plastic (which can’t be recycled) more sales. The refill model in itself Packaging also comes into play; and ensuring the sustainable To be truly sustainable retailers creates repeat business – when a “avoiding packaging waste enables sourcing of foods such seafood, “ customer starts refilling, they will your customers to shop according to palm oil and soya.” must take a holistic look at their supply keep coming back to you.” their values, and avoid unnecessary Catherine Conway is the founder chain, back of house, front of house “Consumer education is waste which they may feel guilty of Unpackaged, the first modern everything,” says Catherine. about contributing to when they zero waste food shop in London and the products they sell ” “Once your customers are au fait shop elsewhere.”

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“We use avocados from small- scale farmers in Kenya that are rejected for export to supermarkets. Previously, fruit that was too small was slightly discoloured or the wrong colour would be left to rot.” At Paxton & Whitfield cheesemongers in London’s Jermyn Street, the Sloe, Fig & Almond Fruit Slice (£4.95/100g) sold to accompany fine cheeses uses sloes leftover from the sloe gin- making process. Foxhole Gin is the first sustainable, premium gin made using a base distilled from English wine grapes, or more precisely, the pulpy mass of skins, flesh and pips known as ‘marc’. Every year, the industry throws away tonnes of the stuff. Instead of discarding it, the makers of Foxhole send the marc back for a second pressing. Formerly lost juice is collected, fermented and turned into an English wine. This wine is destined for the Foxhole Spirits distillery, and, ultimately, gin. ANY OTHER GOOD PRODUCTS? If you enjoy grilled salmon but with leftover avocado stones and never eat the skin, did you know it’s pistachio shells to create a whole where most of the Omega 3 is found? new cocktail ingredient. It was only a matter of time before MARMITE IS THE ORIGINAL someone invented Sea Chips – TRASH COOKIING good-for-you crisps made from TRASH COOKING PRODUCT, If you use every last crust, fish skin and ISN’T IT? salmon skins. You’re right. The hugely popular, In Rubies in the Rubble’s apple peel, you’re not mean, you’re on-trend, savoury spread is made from a by- healthier new Tomato Ketchup, product of the brewing industry. pear skins which would otherwise says Sally-Jayne Wright be discarded replace half the sugar. AND THERE’S A NEW VEGAN Snact’s new fruit jerky and banana t The Three Chimneys HAVEN’T CANNY COOKS WHEN DID WE BECOME PRODUCT MADE FROM A BY- ALWAYS DONE THAT? SO WASTEFUL? PRODUCT, ISN’T THERE? bars use up wonky fruit and surplus restaurant in Skye, head bananas; as a bonus, the packaging Yes, but that was before we began Use-by dates and lost cookery skills Right again. Aquafaba is the chef Scott Davies is using is compostable. leftoverA pear skins to make verjus ploughing thousands of tonnes have a lot to answer for. WRAP starchy water left behind after – a vinegar-like condiment. Radish of edible food into landfill and has lobbied government and food chickpeas and other pulses have HOW CAN WE USE THE stems and cabbage stalks will go into anaerobic digesters. Bread is the businesses to move safer foods like been cooked or stored. It’s the TRASH COOKING TREND kimchi pickle to accompany miso- food we bin most, and though we hard cheese and pasteurised juices liquid you pour away when you IN OUR CAFÉ? glazed quail and roast cauliflower. love to blame supermarkets, most from ‘mainly having a use-by date, open the can. It makes an excellent Introduce a cheaper, pre-bookable Once this was good housekeeping; waste – almost 50% – occurs to almost always having a best- vegan-friendly egg substitute for set menu for students, pensioners now it’s good PR. Frugality is so at home. before date’. meringues, mayonnaise, mousse and and the eco-aware. Turn wonky fashionable that what claims to The Love Food Hate Waste marshmallows. veg, potato peel and veg tops into be the UK’s first ever zero-waste (LFHW) campaign launched in ANY TRASH COOKING TRIVIA soup and use pasta trimmings and I SHOULD KNOW? HMM, CHICKPEA WATER. restaurant, Silo, has opened 2007 by the not-for-profit body leftover cheese in bakes. Make sure There’s a recipe website to help SOUNDS A BIT LIKE in Brighton. Waste and Resources Action dishes sound and taste appetising bartenders reuse waste. From AUSTERITY. ARE FOODS LIKE Programme (WRAP), publicised THESE LUXURIOUS ENOUGH and spell out that the purpose is to WHAT IS TRASH COOKING? the problem. Such documentaries Trashtikisucks.com, mixologists FOR FINE FOOD PURVEYORS? cut food waste. It’s when you turn edible food as BBC Two’s Great British Waste can learn how to infuse white rum Absolutely. Trend Watch likes destined for the bin into a new dish. Menu (2011) and Hugh’s War on Rubies in the Rubble Aquafaba WILL THE MAKE-DO-AND- MEND TREND LAST? For example, if apple juice Waste (2015) helped bring it Mayonnaise, £3.69 for 190g. The Bread is the food To the extent that food producers has fermented, you add it to a to the fore. “ pleasant acidity reminds us of our sourdough bread mixture; when that we bin most, and favourite non-vegan, French mayo have always made surplus and bread is stale, you make bread-and- WHO’S HELPING TO USE UP made by Benedicta. If you have many leftovers into new products, yes. ALL THAT BREAD? though we love to butter pudding. vegan customers, try ready-made Ethical eating and sustainability are Toast Ale is an award-winning beer blame supermarkets, aquafaba powder by a brand such also macro-trends. But bins have to brewed from fresh bread donated as Vor Foods. Another delicious be worth raiding so double-check by sandwich producers and bakers. most waste – almost ingredient made from a waste worthy brands for deliciousness. Proceeds go to the environmental 50% – occurs at product and sold by Ocado is Hunter Bon appetit, waste watchers! charity, Feedback, which aims to & Gather Extra Virgin Avocado halve food waste by 2025. home ” Oil. Amy Moring, co-founder says: An award winning tradition of transforming outgrades into top grades

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FOLLOW THE CROWD Crowdfunding has taken off in a big way since the term was first coined in 2006, and there are now a growing number of sites such as Kickstarter, Crowdfunder, CrowdCube, Seedrs and Indiegogo, offering an alternative avenue for start-ups to get off the ground or for more established brands to expand, says Jane Wolfe

plethora of food and drink conventional investment strategies? adding that another plus point, “We did a crowdfunding campaign brilliant three-minute film. After that entrepreneurs have used Andrew Hunt, CEO and co-founder particularly for a consumer brand, in 2014 to get SNACT started and you need to ensure you have at least crowdfunding as a way to of Aduna, which in 2017 successfully is that investors can also be brand to launch our fruit jerky, so it made one-third of your target committed raiseA funds while at the same time crowdfunded on Seedrs, explains that ambassadors. “While this can be sense to us that we’d go down the from cornerstone investors before spreading the word about their as a social business supporting small- difficult to measure, it is definitely a same route to launch another range,” ‘going live’. If you have these three brand, from The Uncommon English scale producers in Africa, it was positive factor,” he says. says brand co-founder Michael things in place and combine them which looked to Indiegogo in July to important that investors were aligned Minch-Dixon. “It went well, it was with a well planned email and social successfully raise £25k for an urban with the brand’s long-term mission Funding growth fun to run and we overfunded, so it media campaign, then you stand winery to produce its sparkling and impact. “Many conventional Already a successful brand in was a success. We’ve crowdfunded every chance of being successful.” wine in a can, to Active Root which investors in consumer brands don’t 2017, listed in H&B and Ocado, twice but have also raised investment “The downside is that it’s public raised over £6k on Kickstarter to fit into this category. They may also Hunt explains what prompted the through more conventional routes,” and it’s a lot more work than people bring its energy drink to market, be investing on harsh terms and campaign: “Since launching in 2012, he adds. probably imagine,” adds Minch- and healthy ice cream brand Oppo, a seeking a rapid exit. The great thing we’ve taken our African baobab and “Crowdfunding can be extremely Dixon. “The main lessons came from three-time Seedrs campaigner which about the crowd is that only people moringa from obscurity to being rewarding – it’s a great feeling to see our first campaign; it’s a full time job oversubscribed within minutes of who are excited about your business established superfoods within health that people buy into your project/idea and you really have to commit your going public with its first foray in and believe in what you stand for food retail. This has been no mean and that they’re willing to part with time to reaching out to people and 2015 and becoming the platform’s will invest.” feat – but if we want to achieve their cash to support you personally – to having those conversations. We most overfunded campaign and the Joe Hill, co-founder of One Planet probably wouldn’t crowdfund again fastest ever food or drink brand to Pizza, which crowdfunded on Seedrs in the context of SNACT as we’ve reach its target. on 2016 after initially rolling out its Crowdfunding provided us with done it twice now, but who knows!” And with a report by Seedrs vegan pizzas to its local vegan and “ – which in 2012 was the first veggie community in Norwich, agrees something that money couldn’t – it created First choice for equity crowdfunding platform to that like-minded investors bring 140 investors all motivated for the company start-ups? receive regulatory approval from something extra to the table. “As a “I think it’s definitely on its way to the Financial Services Authority family run start-up, we realized that to flourish. At an early stage of growth, this becoming the first-choice form of – stating that food and beverage we needed more than just capital financing,” says Hunt. “For many deals are joint top in terms of the to turn this idea into a successful proved immeasurable in our success small businesses it compares number of its funded deals, at 11%, business. We also needed the right ” favourably to venture capital, crowdfunding is proving an easily people to believe in us and buy into our vision of impacting the lives of but you have to make sure you really particularly in terms of the key terms accessible means to raise capital for our venture. This is when we millions of small-scale producers plan your campaign carefully before it like valuation and preference shares, small businesses in this sector. knew that crowdfunding was then we can’t stop there. We needed goes live and that you articulate really but also in keeping control of your The idea behind crowdfunding the right decision.” to develop new, more convenient carefully why people should give you business – it is often better to have is that small amounts of money “The campaign was a huge product formats to appeal to a money (in exchange for equity or lots of small investors than one big are invested by large numbers of success for several reasons,” says broader, more mainstream audience. rewards),” he explains. one who can flex their muscles. I like investors through online campaigns Hill. “Firstly, we raised the money And this requires investment.” that it has democratized the process which are usually either donations- needed to invest in a refrigerated This July Aduna did a follow-on Campaign commitment of investing in start-ups - something based, where investors don’t expect van, a production kitchen and campaign to help fund the launch of Indeed to stand any chance of that was previously only the domain a return; rewards-based, where everything in between, so we could two new product ranges - African success, a crowdfunding campaign of wealthy angel investors. This the investors receive some kind of increase production. And secondly, Super-Teas and Superfood Energy needs effective forward planning means that pretty much anyone can benefit such as a discount or free the local influencers, bloggers, family Bars – and scale up production and and serious commitment, as invest in businesses they believe in.” products, but don’t receive any and friends who helped us launch marketing. “In the first campaign our Hunt explains: “I think the most “From my experience, equity or ownership in the brand; or the company were now physically target was £350k and we smashed important thing to recognize is that crowdfunding is a great option for equity-based, where investors get a invested in it. They don’t just want it that in just 48 hours, going on to raise crowdfunding starts with your own start-ups to explore,” agrees Hill. stake in the company, and therefore to succeed, they want it to continue to a total of £471k from 370 investors. network. You will need to be out there “I’d say one of the main benefits is the opportunity for a future financial succeed. Crowdfunding provided us In the last campaign we achieved a pitching your business in the ‘real exposure – if done the right way, return. If a pitch fails to reach its with something that money couldn’t – similar result – raising £428k against world’ several months in advance of a campaign can become a great funding target within the allotted it created 140 investors all motivated a target of £300k,” says Hunt. going live, and need to have generated marketing tool to help reach the right time, either an extension is given or for the company to flourish. At an When snack food brand Snact, real commitments and momentum. people and generate real excitement it’s cancelled and no payments are early stage of growth, this proved which uses surplus fruit and veg If you expect that you can just make a about the products/service. Having taken from investors. immeasurable in our success.” to produce its range, launched nice video, put it on the platform and lots of smaller investors can also be “Raising on Seedrs enabled us to a rewards-based Crowdfunder the money will just roll in, you will be advantageous simply by creating a Added extras take on much-needed cash injections campaign in 2017 it was in order in for a nasty surprise! situation wherein more people are So apart from hard cash, what at a crucial stage of our business to get its trio of Banana Bars off the “Firstly, you need a strong growth spreading the word and talking about benefits does crowdfunding offer growth, so the importance can’t ground by raising £10k to make the (and brand) story to go to market the start-up. It could lead to a domino brands compared with more be underestimated,” says Hunt, first run of products. with, then you need to turn this into a effect that’ll get the name out there.” @specialityfood

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Kateline Porritt of thefoodpeople will unveil the latest food and drink IN DETAIL trends from across the world. Social WHEN: 20th-21st March 2019 media guru David Levin, whose WHERE: Celtic Manor Resort, services have been engaged by major Newport brands like KitKat and PG Tips, will WEB: tastewales.com explain how to create social content to build food business success. Conference MC, Sara Edwards, is being held on 20th–21st March who has pursued her own interest at the world-class Celtic Manor in food throughout her successful Resort, once again bringing together broadcast career said, “All of producers, buyers and food industry these speakers have two things professionals for this signature in common: they approach things international food and drink trade differently, and they’ve been hugely event and conference. Delegates and successful because they think buyers will be drawn from across outside of the box. I am so looking Europe, the US, Middle East and forward to being part of this amazing as far afield as Japan to discover event at such a critical time for innovative Welsh produce, to BLASCYMRU/ the sector, and I am really looking network and do business. forward to hearing how ‘disruptive Food and drink giant Princes thinking’ can inspire Welsh food has also recently been announced and drink producers to do things as the headline sponsor for the TASTE WALES 2019 differently, including exploring the 2019 international trade event opportunities of new technology in and conference. Top class speakers prepare for Wales’s premier international the food industry and how to embed Visit tastewales.com for more innovation into business practice.” information and to register your food and drink conference BlasCymru/TasteWales 2019 attendance at the event. ome of the food world’s famous for Noma, four-times out and inspire at home and across CLAUS MEYER, greatest success stories, winner of the coveted World’s the world. NOMA the best speakers, and the Best Restaurant title, who credits In addition to Claus Meyer, Tansy Ssector’s leading thinkers have his unconventional approach for Drake will share her insights into been lined-up for BlasCymru / his phenomenal success, which the phenomenal success of innocent TasteWales 2019 (20th-21st March), also includes fuelling the Nordic smoothies, where she spent nine as Welsh food and drink continues food revolution and training young years helping to build the brand to shine on the international stage. people in the Bolivian food sector. into the powerhouse it’s known as Headlining the packed conference Claus will draw on his experiences today. Chris Hayward will draw programme, titled Accelerating as a gastronome, businessman and on his market expertise at Kantar Sustainable Growth – faster, philanthropist to show how Welsh Worldpanel to explain the changing smarter, cleaner, is Claus Meyer, food and drink producers can stand demands of consumers while

@specialityfood ESSENTIAL PRODUCTS 17 Stock up your shelves with Speciality Food’s Great British Biscotti Pep & Lekker Dorset’s most discerning biscuiteers have done the For too long nutritious, pick of some of the best unthinkable, turning the humble coffee dunking biscotti vegan-friendly into something altogether debonair, courtesy of their snacking has been food and drink products deliciously decadent portfolio of sweet and savoury falsely stereotyped as flavours that include: either ‘depressingly available on the market For savoury snackers: disappointing’ and Jalapeno & Cheddar, Wild Garlic & Rosemary, Stilton ‘overtly worthy’ or right now. From coffee & Raisin, Red Onion Marmalade & Walnut, Fennel & ‘devilishly indulgent’ Cheddar and Sun-Dried Tomatoes & Olives but bad for you. and chocolate to snacks, The award-winning Seed Snacks were launched in Autumn For sweet-minded biscuit afficianodos: 18 to dispel the lazy, urban myth that better-for-you snacking Chocolate Orange, Banoffee Pie, Belgian Choc, storecupboard essentials meant drab, dreary nibbles devoid of flavour, imagination or Coffee & Sour Cherry Double Choc and White Chocolate, whole-hearted appetite appeal. Cranberries & Pistachio and vegan options, As an enthusiastic amateur and always-on-the-go commuter, Whilst our full-bodied savoury flavours have the foodie Susan Gafsen wanted a nutritious nibble that brought tasty, on these pages you’ll find gravitas to accompany any well-stocked cheeseboard or clean deck oompf to her day, in addition to compostable, planet- charcuterie tray, our sweet variants will bring extra wow friendly packaging. multiple products to tempt to any well-deserved coffee break. “As someone with a lovely yet lazy vegan son,” explains Susan, your customers, expand Double-baked biscotti are made to be savoured slowly “I became increasingly agitated by the deluge of spurious health not scoffed at high speed because we Brits bake biscuits claims or foggy ingredient decks (that were anything but all- your food and drink offering like nobody else! natural) that dominated so many vegan treat packs.” greatbritishbiscotti.co.uk In addition, low-calorie Seed Snacks are baked for extra and add excitement to SNAP and use apple puree as a binding agent which removes the need for any needless oil! your displays pepandlekker.com

Brook Vegan Foods TheA perfect Protein balance of protein Ball and fibre, Co. these 100% natural, Brook Vegan Foods is a new venture, launched by the team behind no added sugar Breakfast Balls are set to reinvigorate the most award-winning vegan restaurant The Brook. Born from a desire to important meal of the day, giving consumers an on-the-go and reach more people with delicious vegan food, our range of frozen, fully nutrition-packed choice for breakfast or any time of the day. prepared ‘home’ meals have been developed to enable quick, easy Available in three delicious flavours: Apple + Blueberry, Hazelnut and exciting plant-based eating for an environmentally-conscious, + Cacao and Strawberry + Vanilla, each 45g snack pack contains six flexitarian generation. Made by chefs in small batches, with minimal bite-sized Breakfast Balls boasting 5.4g protein and high fibre. ingredients and no additives, our range is designed to represent the Plus, they’re made in Sussex, are vegan-friendly and gluten-free, gourmet experience and show-stopping dishes we’re known for. and contain no added sugar. 07900 213 095 0207 117 2631 [email protected] theproteinballco.com the-brook.co.uk

The Pished Fish The Pished Fish is on a bold, single-minded mission to revive salmon’s unapologetic swagger, coupling the noble fish’s long-standing reputation for ‘clean living’ and ‘nutritional wealth’ with a more dashing and alluring identity. Such a mission is pretty much assured when you pair this thoroughbred fish with best-in-class botanicals and alcohol, prior to smoking it over snug bundles of Walkers Nonsuch Tims Dairy scented British wood. The deliciously creamy Selection Hammer Pack is great for giving Try these new, contemporarily branded Greek style bio-live and Initially famed for such elegant offerings as Augustus and perfect for sharing. Made by family toffee maker Walker’s lactose free yogurts inspired by Tims Dairy’s London roots and Gloop (raspberry vodka and blueberries), Dark & Stormy Nonsuch, the quality is second to none. Ingredients include whole celebrating their 70th year as a family business. Partnering with (rum, ginger, lime zest and Agave nectar) Erik the milk and butter, and not forgetting 125 years of cooking experience charity Depaul UK to help give homeless people a better future, the Red (aquavit, juniper, star anise and beetroot)& most since the business’s humble beginnings in 1894. three new 150g pots with a unique yogurt sleeve come in vibrant recently Sozzled Santa (brandy, cinnamon, nutmeg & The pack includes four big bars in favourite varieties like Original flavours – Mango & Turmeric, Rose & Rhubarb and Chocolate & clementine zest), the last festive break saw our Sussex Creamy, Roasted Hazelnut, Liquorice and Fruit and Nut along with Orange Marmalade. They are the perfect answer to a consumer need smoker introduce a game-changing Designated Driver a real toffee hammer and instructions on how to break each bar. for a smaller pot Greek style range which ticks all the boxes in terms line (juniper & cherry-infused smoke) to target those In typical gifting colours of red, gold and cream, the attractive of provenance, natural ingredients, healthy indulgence and salmon enthusiasts who want to stay off the sauce whilst pack stands out on any display and brings a point of difference. It’s convenience. All made with fresh British milk and cream using appreciating the finest slow-cured salmon our island a fun gift with a novelty appeal with the hammer. There’s nothing on-trend spices and flavours first shipped into London’s docks. has to offer. quite like breaking your own toffee. Packs retail from just £6. [email protected] thepishedfish.com walkers-nonsuch.co.uk

specialityfoodmagazine.com 18

Yugo Hawkshead Our highly charged spiced pastes and sauces take the predictable monotony out of lacklustre Relish Hawkshead Relish is a Worcester Sauce home-cooking, providing simple, stress-free that is gluten-free, vegetarian, nut-free and cooking experiences for those adventurous foodie is suitable for vegans. This tangy and rich souls who currently lack the time, know-how or sauce is packed with flavour from tamarind, culinary conviction to truly express themselves garlic and treacle. in the kitchen. For best use, try this over cheese on Once upon-a-time ‘fusion cooking’ was a toast, rarebit and is equally good used horribly shallow and pretentious phrase, and yet as an ingredient in cooking bolognese, in these more open-minded World Cuisine times, soups and sauces. Yugo provides the perfect risk-free excuse to The Hawkshead Relish Company freestyle with a number of sublime yet unfamiliar is an artisan producer of an award-winning ingredient marriages that ripple with flavour range of over 100 handmade preserves. intensity and gastronomic depth. All products are free from nuts, gluten Our first batch of ‘anything but predictable’ Thai Taste and are suitable for vegetarians. flavour unions includes two game-changing Thai Taste was launched in 2000 This small family run business pastes (Miso Chipotle and Curried Sun-Dried by a team of foodies who were has over 60 great taste awards to Tomato) and one lively Chipotle Garni hot passionate about the delicious, their name and as a result have sauce. Each and every one of our ‘fundamentally yet quite simple, dishes of Thailand. become well known within the foolproof’ recipes is reassuringly free from Working with Thai chefs, they created a complete industry as a producer of optimum preservatives, sodium or any unduly pretentious range of authentic products, made in Thailand with quality products. or obscure ingredients, opting instead for fresh ingredients, that would enable both novices and 01539 436 614 a tantalizing kaleidoscope of reassuringly professionals to prepare delicious Thai meals in the [email protected] recognizable yet tantalisingly tasty ingredients. comfort of their own homes. hawksheadrelish.com yugospice.com Now owned by Empire Bespoke Foods, the brand continues to supports Duang Prateep Foundation, with a percentage of every sale donated to the cause. Founded and located in the slums of Bangkok in 1978 by ambitious slum-dweller Prateep Hata, Duang Prateep, meaning ‘Flame of Hope’, delivers education, happiness and hope to those in need. This year, Thai Taste is harnessing the power of social media to communicate and engage directly with its community of Thai cooks. The brand has nearly 27,000 followers across Instagram, Facebook and Twitter and is investing in these channels to share recipes, cooking tips and insights on Thai culture and cuisine. 0208 537 4080 [email protected] thaitaste.co.uk f ield fa re Island Bakery field fare’s new range of freshly-frozen, filled pasta is made by a family Offer your customers Island Bakery’s range of all-butter organic business in Liguaria, Italy. Their small team of artisans only make biscuits from the Isle of Mull in the Hebrides. The biscuits are baked pasta and have been doing so for three generations. Using ancient in a unique oven, fuelled by local and sustainable sources of wood, recipes, regional ingredients and traditional flavours, they have made and all the electricity for the bakery is generated from the island’s this authentic, delicious tasting pasta that is frozen immediately; plentiful supplies of rain and wind. retaining its shape, flavours and quality. The fun packaging tells the story of the island and its characters, Varieties include creamy Blue Cheese and Walnut Saccottini, presided over by the much-admired highland cow, MacMoo! Classic Meat and Red Wine Ravioli, aromatic Mortadella Sausage and Luckily the biscuits can be found beyond the island’s shores. Cheese Ravioli and vegetarian Vegetable and Ricotta Ravioli. All the Joe and Dawn Reade would encourage stockists to get in touch so quality of fresh pasta but with the added convenience of being frozen. they can be included on the stockist database on the Island Bakery 01732 864 344 website, which helps biscuit-seekers to find stockists near them. [email protected] 01688 302 223 [email protected] field-fare.com islandbakery.co.uk

The Raw Chocolate Pie Company. Based in Cornwall, it seemed natural to us to extend our range beyond our Raw Chocolate Pie into Raw Vegan Fudge. We make six flavours of vegan fudge and two Raw Combo bars, combining our Raw Chocolate and Raw Myfoodie Fudge. They are proving MYFOODIE is a new range of organic, plant-based very popular and our ‘drinkable snacks’ from Swedish start-up ‘Veg of Lund’ Salted Caramel Fudge Old Rectory Preserves – a joint venture with the University of Lund, Sweden. was awarded Silver at the 2018 Old Rectory Preserves is an artisan maker of a range of Working together we discovered a unique new way Free From Awards. multi-award-winning jams, chutneys, jellies and marmalade to develop dairy-free products without losing that All the ingredients in our raw based in Norfolk. They use only top quality, locally sourced ingredients dairy feel when you drink it. ‘MYFOODIE’ shows the chocolate and fudge are organic including heritage fruit varieties and herbs, their delicious products on-trend zesty Nordic drinks at their best with three and Fairtrade and we aim for picked up a further six Great Taste Awards in the last year. A new flavours: Raspberry, Blueberry and Sea Buckthorn (a the highest quality. As well as dairy-free, our products range of has been launched using vegetables and foraged fruits grown Viking staple!). The range is all organic, plant-based are gluten-free, soya-free and contain no added refined sugar. on the renowned Elveden Estate in Norfolk, including Elderflower and allergen-free, and one bottle contains nearly 50% Our aim is always to produce a product of integrity, lovingly Jelly, Piccalilli, Red Onion Relish and Hedgerow Preserve. of your daily recommended Omega 3 intake. The range handmade in Cornwall. 01953 789 910 launches in April 2019 across London and the South [email protected] East with more new flavours to come. [email protected] rawchocpie.co.uk oldrectorypreserves.com vegoflund.com

@specialityfood ESSENTIAL PRODUCTS 19 Play in Choc Original Biscuit Bakers PLAYin CHOC is a new and innovative, ethical, design-led Biscuit specialists Original Biscuit UK manufacturer of organic chocolates and educational Bakers have launched Mini eco toys. Gingerbread Men into the We use no plastic in our packaging or toys, instead UK market. using home compostable film to individually wrap our The bite-sized novelty 2018 Great Taste Award-winning chocolates. gingerbread jacks are handcrafted Our 3D puzzle toys are made from 100% recycled card to a traditional and there are 46 animal designs to collect, assemble and gingerbread recipe learn about. and wrapped in clear Each PLAYin CHOC kids cube comes with 2 x cellophane wrappers to 10g smooth and creamy chocolates – which are also vegan, make them a fun product Wilkin & Sons refined sugar-free, gluten and soy-free – a 3D puzzle toy which consumers of For over a century Wilkin & Sons have been producing jams, preserves (leaving three stencils once assembled), and a fun facts all ages are sure to and condiments on their fruit farm based in Tiptree, info card. find attractive. Essex, and the iconic brand has now turned its hand to infused gins PLAYin CHOC chocolate only comes in boxes of 5 and Gemma Williams, and vodkas inspired by their popular range of jarred products. 10 – are are perfectly sized for portion control, freshness product development The range includes classic fruit flavours such as English Damson and portability. All products come in shelf-ready packs manager said, “Our mini Fruit Liqueur and English Rhubarb Fruit Liqueur, as well as treats with pop up displays at the back to neatly inform and sell gingerbread men are the for modern palates such as Chocolate Orange Vodka Liqueur and in any retail environment. ideal bite-sized snack for Salted Caramel Vodka Liqueur. PLAYin CHOC is shortly available from two UK those on-the-go, superb as The classic English Strawberry fruit liqueur offers bright, clean national distributors, The Health Store and Suma. a little treat and make the strawberry notes with a crisp background of juniper. It can be serve playinchoc.com ideal accompaniment to it straight over ice, add to their favourite mixer for a fruity gin a cup of tea, coffee or hot spritzer, or add a dash to prosecco for a strawberry royale. chocolate.” tiptree.com originalbiscuitbakers.co.uk

Ethical Addictions Farm direct coffee company, Ethical Addictions, bases itself on two basic tenants: “Taste the difference. Make a difference.” With a broad range of different blends, every bean is sourced fairly. By sourcing Original Ferrari Coffee directly from the producer whenever possible, Ethical Addictions has Gian Carlo Ferrari, the master coffee connoisseur has by using his built long-term relationships with these farms and villages, paying knowledge and experience of over 35 years created a range of full more than ‘fair trade’ prices and investing in their lives through social bodied aromatic coffees. projects and partnerships with charities. With only the finest beans, sourced from the best plantations, The coffee sourced is high-grade Arabica beans, roasted under the roasted in a special way, could the taste of the world be held in a cup watchful eye of a roasting specialist with 30 years experience of coffee. eacoffee.co.uk originalferraricoffee.co.uk

Roka Cheese Crispies Famous since 1949 for intensely flavoured, delicate cheese biscuits with 30% mature cheese. These original ROKA Cheese Crispies are made with mature Gouda cheese, and each biscuit has over Gruyére AOP Divine Made in western Switzerland, Gruyère AOP has been produced in 90 layers, resulting in a A new temptingly rich high cocoa dark chocolate range the same way since 1115AD, using raw milk from cows fed on grass delicious, crispy and light bursting with feelgood flavours, made with specially in summer and hay in winter. The skilled cheesemakers use 400 bite. The ROKA Cheese sourced organic cocoa from tropical São Tomé. litres of fresh milk to make a single 35kg Gruyère AOP wheel. It is the Crispies Gouda cheese The smooth, rich cocoa from São Tomé delivers a only cheese that has won the title of Best Cheese in the World at the got a 2017 Great Taste deliciously distinctive depth of flavour with woody, spicy World Cheese Awards four times, which just goes to show how much award for their outstanding notes, perfectly paired with a range of intriguing feel work and skill is needed to create its unique and delicious flavour. quality, crispiness and taste. good flavour combinations. Discover the exciting mix of Gruyère AOP can be found with different maturities: the Classic Besides this Gouda cheese warming ginger and aromatic turmeric, the delicious duo is matured for six months and has a delicate, nutty, creamy flavour. variety, ROKA has a full of real blueberry and popped quinoa, crunchy cocoa nibs, The Reserve is matured for 10 months and has a drier, more grainy range of different flavours refreshing zesty lemon, combined with rich 85% cocoa, mouthfeel. Then you can find an older Gruyère AOP, 14 months or and formats. and the exceptionally rich and pure 95% cocoa bar. more, giving it a much stronger flavour. The age brings a difference 0207 378 6550 01604 821 200 in taste, but the recipe always stays the same. [email protected] [email protected] gruyere.com cheesecrispies.com divinechocolate.com

specialityfoodmagazine.com 20 THE CENTRE SPREAD

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THE HANDMADE CAKE COMPANY REVOLUTION TREWITHEN DAIRY Give your 1CAKES 2TEA 3CLOTTED CREAM Deliciously A range of whole Dairy farmers Rachel and customers’ homemade-looking leaf speciality teas Bill Clarke began processing and designed made with select milk and cream more than afternoon tea to be defrosted herbs, real fruit 20 years ago. Now joined by fresh for your pieces, essential sons Francis and George and spreads a boost needs, The Handmade Cake Company’s range oils and all natural flavours. Revolution offer a dedicated staff of 150, the of cakes is second to none and includes such high quality, loose leaf tea in convenient ‘Trewithen family’ produce delicious milk, with our pick classics as traditional Fruit Loaf, Flavourful infuser tea bags, providing customers with cream, butter and yoghurt using milk from Blackcurrant Mini Cakes and zesty Orange superior taste and health benefits. Available in herds within 25 miles of their dairy in the of the best & Poppy Seed Cake. 19 flavours and three serving formats. beautiful Glynn Valley, Cornwall. teatime treats handmadecake.co.uk revolutiontea.co.uk trewithendairy.co.uk @specialityfood THE CENTRE SPREAD 21

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TIPTREE MR ORGANIC THE HANDMADE CAKE COMPANY NYETIMBER 4COCKTAIL 5BISCUITS 6SULTANA SCONES 7CLASSIC CUVÉE CONSERVES Deliciously crunchy Delivered in loose boxes of This wine’s fine and elegant New Tiptree Cocktail Mr Organic Biscuits 18, The Handmade Cake bubbles with a palate of honey, Conserves add a are baked to perfection. Company’s Sultana pastry, almond and baked apple special twist to your They are crafted to Scones are a delicious flavours make it a delicious scones. They are also a plant-based recipe, addition to an afternoon partner for afternoon tea treats. terrific on toast, or using only the finest organic ingredients and tea spread. The classic, buttery scone has Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvée also mix with your favourite cocktail for a little absolutely no palm oil. From store cupboard been updated with the addition of juicy and stands up to savoury pairings extra pizzazz. Available in five varieties: Berry staples to speciality goods, Mr Organic is flavourful sultanas – making them delicious such as sandwiches thanks to its Daiquiri, Buck’s Fizz, Lime Mojito, Peach making it simple to choose a better, more eaten with jam and cream or even simply toasty and complex aromas which come Bellini and Piña Colada. wholesome way of living. good quality butter. from over three years in the cellar. tiptree.com mr-organic.com handmadecake.co.uk nyetimber.com

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THE NEW ETHICS Ethical concerns are driving consumer demand like never before, so what does it take to meet your customers’ expectations?

nticipating purchase product over their basket. According their purchase decision to reduce hasn’t come from nowhere,” she they’re marking their own homework. behaviour – the holy grail to market stats released last month their impact on the environment. suggests. “There’s a digitally-literate The other thing that’s distinct about of retail – is all about by analysts Nielsen, working hard Significant proportions reported generation that has access to social Fairtrade is that it’s in the hands of understandingA those micro-factors on the sustainability of your range buying habits in favour of organic media – that can discover and share the farmers: the board is 50% farmers, that will sway a shopper at important and the ethics of your shop’s outlook (41%), products made with information more easily than ever and a guaranteed minimum price that crossroads. As they hesitate on the may nudge customers over the line. sustainable materials (38%) or and lobby corporations through that puts the money to the farmers, so they threshold of a shop, as their hand Around 73% of global consumers which otherwise delivered on social mechanism – but I feel there’s been decide how they spend it.” reaches for a shelf, as they hover the polled said they’d probably change responsibility claims (30%). fantastic quality educational material “Consumers are definitely looking “Sustainability is a way to show produced by us, by Comic Relief, by for more meaning in their products,” consumers that you listen to the Fairtrade Foundation, and Oxfam agrees Catherine Thompson, head them, care for their needs and are that’s been in schools for 20 years. of innovation at the Fairtrade thoughtful about how you produce And the things you learn in school Foundation. “Through our advocacy their products,” said Crystal Barnes, are a matter of fact, which might work we’ve helped bring about a new Nielsen’s vice president of global explain why, despite the proliferation generation of ethical consumers, responsibility and sustainability. of marks and claims, Fairtrade still and we definitely see a surge in “With the right messaging stands out as the one that ensures ethically-conscious consumerism. sustainability can represent premium farmers get a better price for I think there’s a deepening need indicators such as quality, superior their cocoa.” among people to have an emotional function, uniqueness, and are often Sophi is referring, of course, to connection [with their purchases], tied to the ‘go-local’ movement.” So several big brands who have flown the so we’re working to bring forward what does ethical, sustainable or Fairtrade family to set up their own the authentic farmers’ voices.” For responsible mean stewardship schemes. Cadbury and Catherine, the familiarity of the to your customers? And just how Green and Black’s – both owned by Foundation’s mark is a crucial part far should you go to meet Mondelez International – have moved of its ability to cut though the ‘noise’ their expectations? to the latter’s Cocoa Life scheme. around sustainability. According to Nestlé started working with Fairtrade figures from the Foundation, 93% Fairtrade in 2009 but launched its own Cocoa of UK shoppers recognise the logo According to Sophi Tranchell, Plan scheme in 2013. “We think third- and 83% trust it when deciding if CEO of Fairtrade chocolate brand party verification is very important,” a product is ethical. It’s hoped that Divine, the increasingly ‘woke’ says Sophi, carefully. “It’s important Fairtrace, a transparency platform generation of consumers is thanks that there’s an independent check being rolled out to all products by in no small part to the activities on claims. If there’s no independent next year, will help consumers and of organisations like her own. “It verification on a scheme then it’s like retailers alike learn more about We would rather be mindful of our environmental impact than“ wholly focused on the full price value of our products. We believe that this in turn is important to our customer, and so works really well for our brand ” @specialityfood 23

experience, we do the hard work In fact the small shop’s student nights Modern slavery for our customers when it comes to are so popular that Jeanette and Tom “Ethical behaviours are now part looking after our planet.” have heard of the limited free ‘tickets’ of building a brand in the long term, According to Tom Pell and booked on Eventbrite swapping hands increasing trust with consumers Jeanette Wong, who opened The for cash amongst customers. and prolonging brand loyalty,” says Clean Kilo, what claims to be the Of course it’s not just plastic waste Daniel Ball, co-founder of digital UK’s largest zero waste supermarket that grabs shopper’s attention; cutting procurement platform Wax Digital. in Digbeth, Birmingham, last June, food waste, and being seen to support “Millennials are an increasingly the movement’s time has come. “ In food banks, is another strand to ethical influential and socially-responsible 2018 it completely rocketed,” says retailing. “We’ve never produced a demographic, so it surely makes Jeanette. “There must be over 40 huge surplus of food as wastage has sense that retailers should shift their now. I’m on a Facebook group that always been something we have cared business ethics more in line with encourages people to set up zero about,” says Harriet Jenkins, COO of this key market.” Daniel believes waste shops and there are more than Detox Kitchen, which has two delis in that all retailers should proof their 2,000 members now. If this becomes central London. “However we used to supply chain against the especially the norm, and there are zero waste have to throw out our dressed display toxic issues of modern slavery, shops in every town, this is going to salads at the end of the day, as well as forced labour and human trafficking. become the norm and people will our egg wraps, as they’re best served “It might sound surprising, but have their zero waste kit – all their absolutely fresh.” these crimes happen frequently in containers, all their bags – ready.” Instead Detox Kitchen has recently the supply chain, unbeknownst to That this shop flourishes in a started using a waste reselling app many,” he suggests. “Sugar farming borough described as the Shoreditch from Swedish start-up Karma app to is a particularly hazardous form of labour, with low life expectancies, wages Millennials are an increasingly and job security across the board, “influential and socially-responsible as well as occupational dangers in abundance too.” demographic, so it surely makes sense that It’s only businesses with a turnover of £36m that are obliged to comply retailers should shift their business ethics with the Modern Slavery Act 2015, more in line with this key market which makes large businesses ” responsible for checking that the supply chain of crops grown in packaging-free shop in Manchester of Birmingham may not win over zero discount unsold food to a motivated suppliers don’t benefit from slave markets where farmers and workers after successful trials in Berlin and waste skeptics to the model’s viability, group of consumers, thus reducing labour. So does this mean smaller, are vulnerable to exploitation. Milan. The fine food sector is already but according to Jeanette the shop has food waste and getting some cash independent retailers can cross the embracing the trend; Scotland’s first become a destination for shoppers back. “It has absolutely worked issue off their to-do list? “Yes and Zero waste plastic-free grocery – The Refillery from less posh neighbourhoods. “Our from a financial perspective,” says no, really,” says Daniel. “They can According to market analysts – opened its doors in mid-January, customer base is really varied,” says Harriet. “Not only does the food still choose to voluntarily produce Mintel, plastic waste – and in joining Bulk Food Market in East Jeanette. “Young people come in who that would otherwise be wastage a ‘slavery and human trafficking particular single-use packaging – is London and Earth. Food. Love in have seen us on Instagram, students go to good use but we are also able statement’, especially if they’re the top environmental concern for Totnes among others. “I’m excited to – some of our products are cheaper to ensure we are not making a loss working with suppliers. In fact, consumers, with plastic-free stores be joining the ranks of revolutionary than the supermarkets...Our spices from this food.” More important to many independent retailers often emerging as the number one ethical businesses who are offering are so much cheaper because we’re the brand, however, is the ethical take a strong stance on their approach priority of consumers in a recent something radically different to selling them without the glass jar. A halo that reducing food waste gives to slavery and human trafficking as research from Mintel. ‘Naked’ shops combat our global waste issue,” said lot of mums and their children come to the business. “We would rather part of their wider ethical code may soon become commonplace on The Refillery founder Kelly Wright in during the week and elderly people be mindful of our environmental of conduct.” the high-street: this month cosmetics on the store’s launch. “By offering too. All generations are actively trying impact than wholly focused on the “Due to their smaller operational brand Lush opens its first UK a streamlined, ethical shopping to reduce their plastic consumption.” full price value of our products,” says size, independent retailers can go Harriet. “We believe that this in turn above and beyond the compliance is important to our customer, and standards set out by the Modern so works really well for our brand. Slavery Act 2015. Not only does We have been working a lot on our this help them to operate and social responsibility throughout the trade more ethically, it can make last year, and our collaboration with them a more attractive option for Karma has been a part of that. We customers. It, therefore, makes a huge hope to always be seen as an ethical amount of sense for small retailers brand as this is really important to extensively research all their to our staff, our brand and our suppliers and partners to ensure their customers alike.” entire operation is ethically sound.”

specialityfoodmagazine.com 24 COUNTER POINT Sponsored by

How not to do it “You have to be careful not to sample passively,” says Andy. “Just putting out lumps of cheese that people can graze on as they pass without any interaction will tip the balance into being more about people just grabbing and eating and less about them sampling and thinking about what they are tasting.” In percentage terms, Andy states that around 25% of the time samples do not lead to a sale, but it’s important to not let that be the end of it – simply offer them a sample of something else as a comparison, and use it “as an introduction to talk to the customer about what you do and your cheeses.” Personally,” says Marcello, “I don’t like the way some business sample cheese, just throwing it on a board and feeding it to a more or less engaged public – sampling should always be personal and unique.” Don’t think that customer service and experience will automatically lead to a sale, though; “A poor product won’t go anywhere even with the best communication,” he continues.

of Swiss cheese, sampling is What about the cost? “fundamental so that our customers “While sampling can be time can get to know our products,” consuming and may not lead to a says Marcello Basini, director. sale at the moment, we believe that “Only by tasting the cheese,” he it builds the value of our brand,” says says, “can you differentiate an David. “While sampling can be time artisanal product from a mass- consuming and may not lead to a SAMPLING:Why, how and how not to do it produced one.” sale at the moment, we believe that it builds the value of our brand.” In How to do it terms of shoppers who are happy Why sample? taste best, not what we want the cheese too. NYD got direct Andy advises that cheesemongers to taste cheese with little intention Arguably, sampling is one of to push. This will build regular feedback about the cheese and the talk about the product at the same of purchasing it, David says that the most important elements of customers and they learn to trust staff could direct customers to the time as they’re handing out the it’s “unusual. Very occasionally we independent retail. It’s something us to offer what we think is best cheeses they liked best.” sample – “interact with them,” he will have people graze, and if we which differentiates indies from at the moment.” “Over time other benefits were says. Staff training is key, explains are sampling outside the shop our the multiples in terms of customer Cheese tastings have always seen. First and foremost, when David: “We train our team to say conversion rate will be low, but the service and experience, and allows been fundamental to the running people walk in the shop to look what they think about the cheese activity will draw people to us.” the knowledgeable cheesemonger to of Neal’s Yard Dairy. “We worked around and don’t want to engage offered rather than asking the Also, David states that mongering share their expertise and have their to improve the cheeses that were with staff, we can simply provide a customer what they think of the skills are key, as poor skills can lead customer thoroughly experience made through soliciting feedback taste without speaking. It’s on the cheese. It’s not nice to be put on the to unsellable waste – a potentially the product. Andy Swinscoe of The from customers,” explains David. knife before asking if the person spot by an expert.” This training sizeable cost of offering samples. Courtyard Dairy says that sampling “Randolph quickly learned that is interested. No pressure. We are can help in developing skills to help is a key element to his business: there was quite a lot of variation sharing something delicious and not gauge what the customer really “When we ask what people like from batch to batch as well as worrying about making a sale.” wants, even if they don’t have the most about our business, and why within the batch itself. The staff For little-known cheses, knowledge to ask for that outright. they come back, sampling comes needed to constantly taste the sampling is integral to their success. “We use the sampling process to out on top as the most frequently cheese and have customers taste For Jumi, a London-based retailer get to the cheese that the customer mentioned point.” For Neal’s actually wants,” says David. “They Yard Dairy, says director David may come in asking for a mild Lockwood, tasting and sharing is When we share our cheese without too Cheddar and leave with a Stilton “fundamental”. “We sell on flavour,” based on the feedback they provide he says, “and to be successful we much“ concern about making the immediate the person serving them.” This need customers to buy the right understanding can be helpful to the cheese for them, take it home, eat sale we allow our customers the time and wider business, too; at Neal’s Yard it and feel the need to come back space to relax and taste the cheese. Then it Dairy, information from customer to NYD for more. We want people samplings is fed back to producers becomes irresistible and the in-house maturing team. buying the cheeses that they feel ”

The natural choice for cheese

@specialityfood 25

to decide what style of cheese we too – the old Capital of England had should make and we came up with to be right. Then when we took it three criteria. on to 18 months of age, it had to be Old Winchester. Stoney Cross was 1. We were not going to make not so easy, for a while this cheese Cheddar. The world makes MICHAELSMALES went unnamed. We had lists of Cheddar, so avoid it. names, bits of paper, sat around the LYBURN CHEESE 2. Don’t be too niche. You do need a table with cups of tea, all to no avail. broad appeal; a really punchy blue But there it was, sat right on the cheese is not everyone’s cup of tea. doorstep two miles up the road, as I cross the old airfield of the Second “Natural evolution” 3. Don’t age the cheese for too long. World War to deliver cheese to the ith the Milk New Forest on the Hampshire/ Cash is king, you need cash flow. Royal Oak pub at Fritham. Marketing Board Wiltshire border and a dairy unit That said we have now, to a degree, Our cows are an integral part dissolved in 1994, for 200 cows was constructed. The broken this rule, you never get of the story. We have bred them Wand struggling to sell vegetables soil type was a medium sandy loam, everything right! So we played to produce more fat and protein; to both supermarkets and the so there was clearly an opportunity around for a while and started at 5am the milk is in the cow, and wholesale market, it became to grow other crops and, to cut a to settle with a Gouda recipe, by lunchtime it is cheese. In 2001 clear that for smaller players long story short, today we now not typically Gouda, but it was we built a new production facility, like ourselves to survive we have 170 cows, make 70 tons of a starting point. The customers with the help of some grant money, needed to be producing a cheese a year, grow about 80 acres at Winchester Farmers Market and over the years we have slowly niche product and it needed of organic vegetables and 30 acres seemed to like it, so that was grown the business to the point to be branded. As a result, of pumpkins, and farm in the region good enough. where we make about a ton and a we changed from growing of 500 acres with a full time staff of We needed a brand name, and it half a week and seven variations conventional vegetables to eight and lot of seasonal staff. had to be Lyburn. This is actually of the cheese, but Old Winchester growing organic and started to Hampshire Farmers Markets a Scottish name and means borne has been the star of the show. Being experiment with cheese made had just started in 1999. This gave by the river. As a combination of 18 months old these 5kg wheels with our own cows milk. us the confidence that we would at letters it is simple, not too long, are full of flavour, very hard, and So it was in 1952, Father was least have somewhere to sell the unique, so will not get mixed up almost look like Parmesan. Being given three cows from Lord cheese, and without them we may with any other name. So it had to be made with vegetarian rennet, it Carnarvon, Faith, Hope and never have survived. You look at simple and easy, and when we came gives chefs the opportunity to use Beatrix, and he started with 50 the counter in any supermarket, to naming Winchester, the nine an English cheese instead of a hard acres. In 1969 we rented Lyburn any good farm shop or deli and the month cheese, given we had started Italian, and for them it ticks the Farm, another 270 acres, in the choice is bewildering, so we had at Winchester FM that was easy vegetarian box as well.

With the Milk Marketing Board dissolved in 1994, and struggling to sell“ vegetables to both supermarkets and the wholesale market, it became clear that for smaller players like ourselves to survive we needed to be producing a niche product ”

organisms we find in our raw milk improved mental health and (that are likely strain-specific to a plethora of other somatic our cows, our pasture, our soil and psychological benefits. As ROSE GRIMOND and our fields) are even potential a Polish friend recently told NETTLEBED pathogens – the rest are flavour- me, it is also a great tonic for a generating friendly bacteria, yeast hangover. Of all the fermented CREAMERY and moulds that are particular to foods, probiotics and microbial our organic farm. After looking supplements tested, kefir down the microscope at an ever- appears to be one of the very “Curiosity led us to kefir” changing seasonal cycle of different few that can actually deliver microorganisms growing on agar beneficial microbes that survive plates in our lab our microbial milk the journey to the gut where omeone once said that phase to a punchy 45°C. Once quest inevitably led us to kefir. they prosper. It is possible that cheesemakers are the temperature gets in to the Our head cheesemaker and the low pH of kefir means that farmers of microbes, forties the mesophiles will slow microbe guru Patrick had been the beneficial microflora have Sand the more cheese we make their growth and then release making kefir at home for years evolved to withstand the at Nettlebed Creamery, the flavour creating enzymes as the but getting it market ready was acidic environment in the more curious about them thermophiles take up the strain. a new challenge. We wanted to digestive tract. we become. Thermophiles, as the name suggest, offer an organic kefir which wasn’t We have found that since We make three different types are lovers of higher temperatures. mass produced but was of the launching our own kefir there are of cheese: a soft, a semi-soft and That however is only the highest quality and so we set about very stark differences between a semi-hard. Each has its own beginning of our quest to propagating kefir grains with our what we bottle and what can be particular relationship with understand microbes. From day own milk and testing, tasting, bought in a supermarket. For bacteria. Bix and Highmoor, one at the Nettlebed Creamery, testing, tasting. starters, the viscosity is quite our soft cheeses, are made we were dedicated to the raw milk Kefir is one of the oldest forms different. Ours is thick and leaves with mesophilic bacteria. A cause, but the march of bovine of fermented milk you can find “legs” down the side of a glass. mesophile is a lover of moderate tuberculosis across England meant in Europe. It is believed to have The supermarket varieties that temperatures, between around that we had to concede defeat to originated in the Caucasus we have tried are smooth and 25-37°C. M. Louis Pasteur. Having been in a mountains millennia ago. The leave no trails. They remind us ese Talk C he ese St Bartholomew, our semi- low-risk area in south Oxfordshire health benefits of kefir are not of Yop, a liquid yoghurt that used hard cheese, is made to a recipe we had a positive test result for TB. fully understood, however, what be available in the 80s and 90s. where the curds are “scalded”. Determined not to say goodbye to research has been done seems to But we are artisan cheesemakers Mesophilic bacteria start the all the microflora that our organic indicate that a healthy population and quite used to the differences New retail acidification and double in farm so liberally gave us, we have of microbes in the gut is associated between supermarket produce perspectives numbers every 30-40 minutes started to retro-cultivate the lactic with an optimally functioning and what we do. Fortunately, we through the initial phases acid bacteria that we know are immune system, reduced know that there are consumers from industry of the make before we heat abundant in our raw milk. Only inflammation and allergies, out there who are discerning and the curds during the stirring a very small proportion of the reduced digestive problems, also on a microbial quest. experts

specialityfoodmagazine.com 26 CHEESE UNCUT News, opinion and comment from dairy insiders Ethical Bluebell bags ‘Best Product Award’ Bluebell, a semi-soft blue from she commented. “The feedback upscaling production in the Galloway’s The Ethical Dairy, from members of the public has next few months and launching has won Best Product Award in been phenomenal and to receive an this cheese into the retail trade the chilled and frozen category award like this from the industry very soon.” at Scotland’s Speciality Food is just amazing. Due to our current Bluebell was launched last Show. Judged by a panel of industry production capacities we have autumn, the fifth cheese from The experts including MasterChef only been selling this cheese direct Ethical Dairy made using ‘cow winner Gary Maclean, the award through our online shop, and even with calf’ milk that allows young to was welcomed by dairy director then we have been struggling to suckle their mothers rather than Wilma Finlay. “We have been keep up with demand for it. We being separated from them shortly thrilled by the response to Bluebell,” are very much looking forward to after birth.

CHEESE FACT FILE: ST CERA Vandersterre  Country of origin: UK  Region: Suffolk launches new  Milk: Cow’s  By: Julie Cheyney, White Wood Dairy Gouda  Interesting fact: St Cera is the Dutch dairy Vandersterre has sister cheese of St Jude, and is made launched a new cheese in using the milk from the dairy cows the Gouda market. Landana from Fen Farm Dairy – the home of Jersey Gouda Old is made Baron Bigod with whole Jersey milk  Tasting notes: Pungent and Wyke Farms to to the original Landana creamy with a spoonable texture recipe, but is matured for at least a year on wooden double production shelves. The finished cheese is rich and creamy, Somerset Cheddar giant Wyke Farms has been granted planning permission with fine crystals a sign to expand its Bruton dairy in a move that’s set to double its production of its long maturation. capacity. Citing the export expansion opportunities presented by Brexit, Jersey Old will be Wyke Farms is embarking on the eight-year redevelopment project to available from increase turnover despite ‘a very challenging retail environment”. The mid-April, with cheesemaker reportedly grew turnover by 26% to £85m in the 12 months up half-cheese to March 2018. Wkye Farms currently trades with more than 160 countries, weighing around

NEAL’S YARD DAIRY selling more that 15,000 tonnes of cheese each year. 5.5 kg available.

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FIRST VEGAN CHEESE AD HITS THE AIRWAVES JUSTIN Errington staff Plant-based ‘cheese’ has racked up another first this month, with TUNSTALL an advert for vegan cheesemaker Violife airing on TV. The two RETAIL return to jobs ads share the message that CONSULTANT vegan cheese can integrate into mainstream diets and is no longer latest development in a two-year Two long-term cheese makers the preserve of specific social tribes. who were laid off amid a legal drama that has also seen the dairy “Waxing lyrical” battle with South Lanarkshire receive £254,000 compensation CELEBRITY BACTERIA Council have returned to money from the council. It’s a step CHEESE GOES ON SHOW n a family holiday to cheesemonger we sold lots of them their jobs. Head cheesemaker forward for the recovering dairy, Cheeses created using the bacteria Normandy in 1965, to people who might otherwise Angela Cairns and colleague Paul which won two gold medals and a of unnamed celebrities will go on my parents and their adult have taken sticks of rock back home McAllister have returned to the silver at the World Cheese Awards O show at the V&A later this year, friends were hugely excited by for their friends and neighbours. dairy at Errington Cheese, the late last year. in a new exhibition pondering the Livarot and Camembert – seldom We did this by branding them as future of food. Artists Christina seen back home in Hampshire. our own, with local place names Agapakis and Sissel Tolaas have While their sophisticated palates and “Lyme Regis’ blazoned created the cheeses for Food: Bigger savoured such artisan classics, my prominently on the top stickers Than The Plate which opens at the young chums and I got addicted (produced on a printer in the shop, Kensington museum in May. to – Babybel. It may have been the although a more professional look inherent sweetness, but I think the could be achieved via a commercial DAIRIES TARGETED BY ACTIVISTS activity of unwrapping the cheese, label firm). We had lots of fun with stripping back the red wax to reveal special editions to celebrate events Thousands of British dairy farmers supple paste was at least 50% of the and got national coverage for some have been targetted by a vegan appeal. of them – particularly a Royal activism project that has shared Small waxed cheeses don’t Wedding duo. Through Ford Farm a map of dairy farms, as well as generally attract the same positive we acquired flat 900gm black waxed contact details, online. ProjectCalf. reviews as rind-washed or cloth- Cheddars on which we placed replica com encourages readers to visit wrapped cousins, but from shop 45rpm record labels, earning us farms, speak with farmers and owners’ perspective, they can be coverage on both BBC Radio 2 and ‘dismantle the humane myth’. The a massive boon. While cutting and 6 Music. A cricket ball coloured action follows similar anti-dairy wrapping 200gms from a larger cheese also got us onto Radio 4’s activism in Australia. truckle can take a couple of minutes, Test Match Special! a 200gm waxed cheese takes mere A nearby dairy farm has seconds to pop in a bag and present specialised in creating the innovative SOFT with a flourish. Most shops have Black Cow vodka from the whey CONTINENTAL Godminster or Snowdonia 200gm by-product of cheese manufacture waxed cheeses in stock and they and a few years ago launched their CHEESE HAS have won a place in consumers’ own black waxed cheese of the SEEN A 6.4% hearts, creating strong, recognisable same name. This is a brand extension GROWTH IN THE brands in the process. that makes perfect sense and which Large cheeses, such as Parlick has captured a lot of attention from PAST TWELVE Fell or Curworthy, seem to benefit chefs, who like pairing it with the MONTHS from moisture retained in the paste vodka as a premium alternative to a as a result of the wax exterior, and predictable cheese board. AHDB DAIRY/KANTAR WORLDPANEL when cut, the coloured wax makes I can’t generalise about the flavour a pleasing colour contrast when of waxed cheeses – even the displayed in the counter. Somewhat Cheddars – and lovers of a cloth- irritatingly, when cut with a cheese wrapped Montgomery, Westcombe wire, wax finds a way of secreting or Keen’s are unlikely to be fans. themselves until the next cut leaving But waxed cheeses have a legion scarlet, burgundy, green or black of followers and it’s vital that our traces. Diligent cleaning of the wire staff know more about them than after each cut is essential! the writing on the label. I believe that Waxed cheeses make excellent cheese counter staff should taste gifts, and in my small seaside everything that they stock, and waxed cheeses are no exception.

specialityfoodmagazine.com 28 ARE MARKETS THE FUTURE OF RETAIL? Opening a store can be an expensive business, especially if you are a young entrepreneur or seeking to experiment with a new concept. Opting for a market stall or pop up shop is proving to be a popular and extremely viable alternative, says Angela Youngman

e run an expanding street food revolution taking place local community as a number of programme in London. To make it an original the stalls are local businesses. The for young and different market we created markets have been very successful “Wtraders which started as a way the Startisans concept to help innovations around London. It is still of encouraging young people to new businesses and offer new and a work in progress in that we would develop a business. Young people interesting products. The key to the like to devote more space to the are interested in opening market scheme is to provide a commercial Startisans in our four shops.” stalls and pop up shops. There is a platform for a good food idea, at a Customer reactions have been ground swell of interest,” says Joe relatively low cost in a good location. extremely positive, recognizing basis, Bowhouse is ensuring that interacting with people and getting Harrison, chief executive of NMTF. It allows producers to interact that the markets provide something customers are kept interested direct customer feedback. We do a lot “The number of speciality markets directly with customers in a high new and different along with an and curious about what will be on of sampling of new products and have is increasing, particularly food profile location at no great cost. opportunity to meet innovative sale. It offers a way in which small been able to roll out new products markets. There are a lot of discerning Many have refined packaging and food producers. businesses can collaborate, share across our stores as a result. We also customers who want better value, ingredients based on feedback. Some Up in Scotland, the Fife-based costs and use Bowhouse as a shop get customers far more involved than more variety and want to talk to have moved on to export or opened Bowhouse on the Balcaskie Estate window. Some companies operate in our traditional stores – we recently people about food, which is not their own premises.” near Edinburgh, is fast becoming units on site, others just take part in ran a sausage making workshop possible in supermarkets.” Lavina Lavolio, owner of an Italian a hub for artisan food and drink the monthly food markets. which was a great success.” The big advantage for markets handmade confectionery company, is producers following the introduction Minick the Butcher is one of the Taking on a market stall has and pop up stores is that they are typical of these new businesses. She of a series of specialist food markets. companies trading at Bowhouse. enabled Scottish based retailer Coco relatively inexpensive. Traders began trading at a Shepherds Market Although the market was only It has five shops within Fife, and Tree to tap into a new network of can be flexible with their business where John Partridge spotted the launched this year, it is generating uses the market as a publicity customers, thus expanding their concepts, and respond quickly concept and asked to stock her a lot of interest, with customer vehicle as well as acting as a way of existing customer base. to changes. It is an ideal way to products in Partridges. From that attendance reaching up to experimenting with new products According to the NMTF’s Mission meet potential customers, discuss small beginning, Lavolio has grown 6,000 people. such as dry-aging meat. Stuart for Markets, there are currently products, carry out low cost market to supply Fortnum & Mason, Ocado, Demand for trading space Minick comments, “The market has over 1,100 markets across the UK research and develop sales networks, Amazon and more than 200 premium outstrips supply. By rotating the brought fresh blood to the food and involving 32,000 traders, plus becoming known to retail buyers in stockists in the UK, Australia, Hong companies involved on a regular drink scene in the area. We enjoy another 9,000 who trade only at food stores, developing online sales Kong and Kuwait. Another example and ultimately leading the way to is that of The Pished Fish which setting up a permanent store. It is an started selling its booze infused opportunity which specialist food hand-crafted smoked salmon at the retailers are increasingly adopting. Shepherds Food Market in 2015, It has proved an extremely and is now selling its award-winning valuable concept for London based smoked salmon to Partridges, speciality food retailer, Partridges. Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason In 2004, Partridges began holding among others. fine food street markets adjacent to Apart from being a fantastic its new premises on the Duke of York way to discover new products for Square as a way of driving footfall. Partridges, Shepherd has no doubt as Its success has led to similar markets to the extra value the market concept being held near other stores within has added to his retail business. “It its network and ultimately elsewhere brings in extra footfall by having in London. There are now 10 a vibrant market on the doorstep Shepherds Markets within London every Saturday. The producers including Primrose Hill, Victoria, themselves bring a lot of energy and Chancery Lane and Spitalfields. marketing skills and promote their From the beginning, Partridges set own products, which ultimately to create a concept that was more helps footfall. The Startisans project than a speciality food market as has won awards and brought kudos Partridges managing director to Partridges in many ways. It John Shepherd explains. helps us with differentiation from “The Shepherds Markets have other shops and shows that we been an important initiator of the are giving something back to the

THERE ARE CURRENTLY OVER 1,100 MARKETS ACROSS THE UK INVOLVING 32,000 TRADERS, PLUS ANOTHER 9,000 WHO TRADE ONLY AT SPECIAL EVENTS AND FESTIVALS. IN 2017-18, SUCH TRADERS COLLECTIVELY TURNED OVER £3.1 BILLION POUNDS, REPRESENTING A STEADY £200M INCREASE YEAR ON YEAR SINCE 2012 NMTF’S MISSION FOR MARKETS

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Having a vibrant market on the doorstep“ every Saturday brings in extra footfall. The producers themselves bring a lot of energy and marketing skills and promote their own products, which ultimately helps footfall ”

area, and encouraged customers music. Such markets are proving to stay longer. The market now extremely successful in large cities turns over £5m a year, and has like London. helped reduce Altrincham’s retail Pop-up shops are another vacancy rate from 25% in 2014 to growth sector as Craig Pannozzo of 10% four years later. A key reason Gazeboshop explains. “Pop-up shops for its success is its flexibility, and have become more and more popular cost efficient operating systems. over the last few years, helping fill Participants are charged a otherwise empty spaces in towns and percentage of turnover, thus reducing cities. They’re a good halfway scale the risk and encouraging innovation. between events and having your own Visiting the market is often full-time premises as the contracts regarded as an experience for are temporary, which in turn, equals many consumers, especially when cheaper rental costs. Our campaign it is involved with a special event ‘Home to High Street’ champions such as a music festival. Attending speciality food and drink retailers the festival becomes more of a setting up stalls in food markets to recreational break, and visitors increase their exposure and trade up.” are ready to open their wallets. He continued, “There has never This is highlighted in research been a better time to invest in a undertaken by Barclaycard. Daniel pop-up shop, with one recent survey Mathieson, head of sponsorship revealing that 42% of consumers at Barclaycard, says, “Our data now prefer small businesses shows that consumers now seek and independent retailers over out entertainment above all else larger brands.” when deciding how to spend their Equally important is the growth money. By providing something of specialist food markets such as extra, whether that’s engaging with the London Borough Market which music fans by being present at their operate permanent premises and favourite festival or creating pop-up have become a tourist attraction shops in new locations, these brands as well as catering for the local special events and festivals. In 2017- pitches. Trading at festivals can Markets are increasingly being will be the ones that thrive in an community. Other specialist food 18, such traders collectively turned prove extremely profitable, with used as a way of revitalizing high experience-led economy.” markets do not have permanent over £3.1 billion pounds, representing some traders succeeding in turning streets. In Altrincham, a communal One of the major changes in premises but open regularly. The a steady £200m increase year on over tens of thousands of pounds food hall based around innovative market operation has been the arrival monthly market in Malton also year since 2012. Music festivals and during an event. Boutique bakery street food providing a place where of night markets with a focus on links into the yearly food festival. other events such as the Christmas Bad Brownie reports that trading at people can come and relax, is linked food. These cater for busy business These markets have tapped into a markets and the Great Dorset Steam music festivals now accounts for to an adjacent food market where people who cannot reach markets hitherto unfilled niche by offering Festival are becoming increasingly 15% of their annual revenue. By there are now numerous speciality by day, but want the experience of consumers access to a very wide popular ways for young people to linking with e-commerce, it enables food retailers including a stall holder communal eating with innovative spectrum of local food. Their success enter retailing. traders to generate repeat custom selling only Portuguese food. The street food as well as buying fresh has encouraged other retailers selling Many such festivals now have and build a reputation, leading concept has successfully increased and specialist produce while enjoying specialist food and drink to open waiting lists of traders seeking to further expansion. footfall, brought more trade to the entertainment like art, theatre and permanent stores within the town.

specialityfoodmagazine.com 30 VIEWPOINT

even angry about organic, and are asked how much they actually know about the details of sometime conventional or organic farming, they realise they don’t know much at all – they’re often simply looking at the higher cost of organic produce and not looking to understand how that is justified. There’s a lack of awareness, and people want to be able to trust that the people in charge are looking after their best interests, but that’s not always the case. We need to educate ourselves, and take responsibility for our own health and wellbeing. The fact is that if you don’t invest in better food now, by buying organic, for example, you will end up spending a lot more money further down the line in terms of costs to the NHS. It’s a complicated argument to get across – buying local or Fairtrade is easy to understand, so we need to continue educating consumers about organic as it’s not a simple concept.

TALKING POINTS

THE SIX PILLARS OF WELLNESS I looked at what was, and I thought there must be something better. For me, Planet Organic was about wellbeing and food specifically – for me, physical wellbeing is broken into food, exercise and sleep – I see that as the foundation, because if you don’t have physical health you’re not going to reach your potential, however excited you are to live your life. Through my twenties and thirties I thought about what could be better in every area of my life – alternative therapies instead of medicine, how to find joy in your

ISABELLE PLASSCHAERT ISABELLE work, relationships and beyond. I was constantly asking myself what I could do better and experience better, and how I could make that happen. Better VIEWPOINT: doesn’t usually mean conventional, and conventional wisdom isn’t always smart. Throughout my time working at Planet Organic, I realised that I had formulated more pillars of wellbeing – as well as RENEE ELLIOT physical, occupational, psychological, economic, spiritual and social. My The founder of Planet Organic and co-founder of Beluga business partner Sam and I launched Bean shares the journey towards a better life and planet Beluga Bean to run courses in support of individuals and business and to bring those pillars together. As time goes on I fter university – I was an English where my MO of questioning and looking for all of the flowers, plants, bees, butterflies and a see more people coming into the Beluga major and minored in health and better began. It was about the meat industry huge organic garden, made me feel like I was in Bean family, including businesses and nutrition – I came to England to in America and led me to turn vegetarian. It the Garden of Eden. It was a hugely powerful corporates, and we will go on to add more workA as a writer on a wine magazine in spoke about the horrors of the American meat experience. I stayed within the vineyard and courses and mentors as time goes on. Twickenham. I sat at my desk on my first day industry but didn’t say anything about the it felt like such a privilege, to be eating food of work, full of excitement, and the guy sitting alternatives, for example organic. It wasn’t from the organic garden and experiencing INSPIRATION next to me said “I can’t wait until Friday”. something that was widely spoken about the organic cooking classes they ran. I was My mission is to promote health in the It was Monday morning. At that moment I in the wine industry, either, but through in my early twenties and the experience community. People often ask me if I had decided that I really had to love what I do. my work in the wine trade I was flown out was life changing. a role model or a mentor – the only role I’m a passionate person, and I was surprised to America by the Great American Wine Sadly, organic hasn’t maintained a steady model I really had during this journey is that nobody had told me throughout my years Company – I visited their top wineries, and momentum, especially when you compare Anita Roddick, a successful, values-led, of school and college that it was possible to one in particular blew me away: Bonterra. It it to health trends that have really taken off shake-it-up kind of woman. I’m inspired design your life; up until then, I realised that was my first experience of organic, which at in recent years. I’ve been involved with the by many of my mentees who are creating you went to university, got a job and that the time was a wild Californian notion; to walk Soil Association for a long time and there has values-led business in order to do good. was your future. through the vineyards and see inter-cropping always been a challenge in promoting organic I believe that values-led business is good When I was 19 I read a book called Diet for a instead of the dead soil between vines that I’d farming without denigrating conventional business – any good business that adds Small Planet by Frances Moore Lappé; that’s experienced in European vineyards, and enjoy farming. When people who are dismissive or value to peoples’ lives is inspiring.

THE ORGANIC RETAIL buying it. I found it interesting that while you can went large-format, and I know there are now nervous about our merchandising being copied, MOVEMENT buy the best quality handbags from luxurious some big Holland & Barretts around. Fresh & but quite regularly we’d have individuals or groups shops, if you wanted to buy the best quality food Wild launched shortly after we did and was multi- of people in suits, taking photographs and quietly When I was 26 years old I visited an organic the shopping experience didn’t reflect that. The storey, whereas we were really going for the admitting that they were from supermarkets supermarket in the US and realised that there was retailers which were already running in the UK supermarket on one floor, then Whole Foods when we asked. One time, we even had a coach a gap in the market for similar ventures in the UK. didn’t work much with fresh produce, meat and Market came over from the US. When we first load of them arrive! Supermarkets got in on the There were small-scale health food stores and fish – mainly ambient products, pills and potions opened we targeted traditional, hardcore vegans, action in 1999, when GMOs hit the press. They independents, but nobody was doing it in any big – as Britain’s health food market grew out of the then we started seeing business people, mums started delisting products that contained GMOs way. The health food market was niche – it was vegetarian movement. I realised that if I didn’t and pregnant women coming in – we could see the and replacing them with organic products – using quirky and ‘alternative’ rather than mainstream. sell organic meat and fish in Planet Organic, then demographic widening. Then the supermarkets a number of the brands we stocked as well as There was also the issue of it being an exclusive in effect I would be supporting the conventional went strongly into organic. They were following launching their own-label organic lines. This didn’t thing; a girlfriend told me that when she went into meat industry. When I opened Planet Organic in us closely the whole time; for the first few years, worry me too much, my goal was an organic planet her local health food shop with her suit, lipstick 1995, the philosophy was to sell the best version of if I went onto the shop floor and there was a man so we never went for exclusivity – the more and pearls, people stared at her. She wanted everything, and make the concept appealing to all. in a suit, he was probably from a supermarket. We successful a brand was, the more shoppers were the best quality food and to feel comfortable A few years after we opened, As Nature Intended didn’t allow photography in the store as we were buying the product, the better.

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is inert and does not leach any conductor of heat this minimises chemicals so is food contact safe.” heat transfer – therefore keeping For businesses keen to avoid goods as hot or as cold as they day utilising single use plastic items they packed. Coupled with this would be interested to know that ideal material for shipping food, JB Packaging also offers a range of EPS is extremely resource efficient Expanded Polypropylene (EPP) and can be recycled and even boxes. “These can be used over reused in the case of expanded and over again and are popular for polypropylene boxes.” catering, food delivery and storage,” JB Packaging is conscious of the explains Samantha. “These boxes discussions being held about plastics, are just like an extra-large lunch but defends the benefits of the box, the only difference being the versatile material: “There are clear superior insulation.” challenges around the single-use “EPS offers superb insulation plastics debate,” she says, “however which ensures that temperature it is important not to lose sight of sensitive products are keep cooler the positive role that good, reusable for longer during transit. The or recyclable plastic packaging can material is packed with tiny air play in protecting products and make pockets, and because air is a poor supply chains more sustainable.”

Alex Pawley, sales and marketing manager at Icertech, talks us through the services provided by the experienced packaging business

Icertech was established in packaging is capable of more 2005, offering cost effective than that! chilled packaging solutions Icertech is a trading division to food retailers and of the well-established Lyan manufacturers. The solutions Packaging, and through them we are designed for customers to have over 30 years of experience THE BIG get their perishable items from in packaging. This has enabled us CHILL A to B within a 24-72 hour to offer custom printing with all With plastic hitting the headlines hard in recent time frame. the advice and guidance required Our product range includes so you can create a unique and times, we speak to experts in temperature smart and sturdy insulated boxes branded solution that not only does and our food safe chill gel packs. the job, but works as an invaluable controlled packaging to discover the innovations These components have been marketing tool. We can supply designed to be used together bespoke versions of many of our helping the sector be more sustainable for optimum reliability and bestselling packaging products and performance, offering you cost from just 300 sets you can have any effective, high quality solutions size from our Tile-Box or Foil-Box ith eco-friendliness have been manufacturing boxes helps to reduce wastage of food and to meet all of your temperature range printed with your logo. hot topics right now, since 1982. It started with the fishing guarantees food safety. controlled packaging needs. it’s important that all industry but today the versatility of “Expanded polystyrene (EPS) WHY SHOULD BUSINESSES Wsectors of the food industry play the box has grown to serve a wide is more eco-friendly than most ONE OF YOUR SERVICES IS CUSTOM PRINTED CONSIDER IT AS AN OPTION their part in acknowledging the range of markets including deli, realise; a finished polystyrene box PACKAGING – HOW DOES FOR THEIR PRODUCTS? impact their work makes on the catering, pharmaceutical, aquatic, is 98% air so only consists of 2% THIS DIFFER TO WHAT ELSE When your goods arrive with your planet in order to both maintain the reptile and more. material, therefore it is very resource IS ON THE MARKET? customer in one of our boxes it is sustainability of their business (and “EPS is a proven and reliable efficient.” She continues, “EPS also Ultimately the primary purpose of quite often the first time they have the natural environment) and satisfy packaging material that helps has an Ozone Depletion Potential temperature controlled packaging is seen your product in the flesh, and so eco-conscious consumers. Plastic to ensure that many different of zero which means it causes no ensuring that temperature sensitive it is crucial to present your goods in in particular is hitting the headlines, perishables reach their destination damage to the ozone layer because products arrive at their destination high quality packaging in which it’s but as Samantha Barrett from the in excellent condition. Its capacity no CFCs or HCFCs are used during in perfect condition, chilled and comfortably stored and protected. company explains, “JB Packaging to maintain a stable temperature the manufacturing process. EPS well protected. But we believe that Packaging can act as an excellent

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“It’s recyclable plastic and proud!” “We are continually developing new products and thrashing out Colin Rowland, general manager at Hydropac, new concepts, and dependant not introduces the business’s latest launch: the simply on whether they actually perform, but whether they offer Recycle-Air System the market key benefits and differentiators. “Hydropac is one of the UK’s the reflective aluminium lining “The new Recycle-Air system highest regarded ice and gel with a recyclable material and – designed and shaped to fit a pack manufacturers, specialising keeping the same level of high conventional box, unlike a messy in temperature controlled performance proved a challenge. non-gusseted bag – offers a classy packaging solutions to the food So, we’ve doubled up on the looking, no-nonsense, hassle free and pharmaceutical industry. insulating and cushioning factor assembly, without fiddly pieces to Our latest new product and replaced the aluminium to find and assemble, further reducing development – the Recycle-Air create a totally recyclable solution, the impact on customers storage System – is the recyclable version which, when combined with a and labour, with a pallet-busting 750 of 2018’s product launch, the double strength corrugated outer liners per pallet potential from our Reflective-Air system. carton, provides comparable stock sizes. tool for businesses to communicate to recommend your company to “Recycle-Air offers identical temperature results to its closest Hydropac has successfully and strengthen their brand. others and position your business performance characteristics competitors: polystyrene and secured a number of large clients Branded packaging is known to as professional and one who pays to Reflective-Air, but replacing foam-based systems. in the UK both in food and have a highly positive impact on attention to detail. consumer experience, as well as reinforcing your brand and inspiring WHAT’S IN THE FUTURE FOR ICERTECH - ARE THERE ANY customer loyalty. EXCITING PLANS IN THE PIPELINE? WHAT ARE THE MAIN BENEFITS TO USING CUSTOM 2019 is really going to be about PRINTED PACKAGING? product development as we work As we have experienced following to develop a range of sustainable our own rebrand in 2016, putting and environmentally friendly effort and thought into your products, with the aim of making packaging will help your customers Icertech the leading supplier of feel good about their decision to eco-friendly temperature controlled buy from you, encourage them packaging solutions.

Putting effort and thought into your “packaging will help your customers feel good about their decision to buy from you, encourage them to recommend your company to others and position your business as professional and one who pays attention to detail ” SPOTLIGHT ON: RECYCLING

substitutes. “Expanded Expanded polystyrene boxes polypropylene often get a bad reputation boxes can be when they are disposed of recycled and reused. irresponsibly. EPS can in fact be These EPP boxes are fully recycled, and we accept EPS popular amongst the catering at all our plants for recycling,” says industry where temperature Samantha Barrett of JB Packaging. control for both hot and cold food is “Clean material can be reused important during transit. in the manufacturing of new “JB Packaging, part of DS EPS boxes and material which is Smith is also working with Tesco contaminated can be compacted to recover waste EPS from their and turned into rigid plastic products waste stream so there are lots of such as coat hangers and even opportunities around.” wooden fence panel and decking There are clear challenges around “the single-use plastics debate, however it is important not to lose sight of the positive role that good, reusable or recyclable plastic packaging can play in protecting products and make supply chains more sustainable ” @specialityfood pharmaceuticals, which have climate we wanted to try and add recycle and educate those around us, switched from EPS Boxes to a recyclable version, and yes that then we are doing our bit! the 3D Reflective Air Systems means using plastic! “The system is hard to resist, with and have found it beneficial in “The clean and crisp white classy aesthetics combined with the reducing the impact on storage, LDPE is a highly sought-after performance characteristics of both transport costs, cashflow and waste material, with many councils systems, providing a unique and weight to landfill, but we now starting to collect this highly game changing set of differentiators wanted to try and add a valuable product and waste to the current dull, age old systems recyclable version. recyclers bending over backwards currently available, providing a “As popular and effective as the to get their hands on it. So, provided more unique, upmarket experience Reflective-Air is, in the current as a generation we simply learn to for the end user.” NEW PRODUCT: ENVIROCOOL Package responsibly,“ with environmentally cool packaging ” On 8th March, Hydropac will be launching its newest product: Envirocool. It is an environmentally-friendly temperature controlled system which “ticks all of the topical environmental boxes,” according to Colin Rowland, general manager at Hydropac. As well as being biodegradeable and recyclable, the new Envirocool system contains some recycled material. Interested parties can pre-order the new Envirocool on the Hydropac website: hydropac.co.uk

We are continually developing new products and thrashing “out new concepts, and dependant not simply on whether they actually perform, but whether they offer the market key benefits and differentiators COLIN ROWLAND, GENERAL MANAGER AT” HYDROPAC

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he much maligned TV premiumising,” agrees Karen Deans, dinner, grabbed from the director of field fare, which has freezer cabinet and zapped recently added hand-finished stuffed Tin the microwave, has long been the pastas and pastry purses to its range target of public heath disapproval. of loose frozens. “For many years High salt, high fat, low fibre and low frozen food was perceived as the quality, the freezer meals of yore poor relation but in reality of course have long been presented as a last it’s not. We all know that as soon as resort for frazzled families who fruit and veg is picked it starts to lose deserve something better. And yet its nutritional value, but that when this picture doesn’t fit the reality. to reach £10bn value. As online it’s blanched, used in a meal or sauce Market data suggests ready meals shopping becomes the norm within and then packed in a short space of are rallying, with high-quality, households, we expect to see the time, the nutrients are locked within. aspirational convenience meals positive impact this has had on frozen I think the consumer is beginning and ready-to-eat options proving sales continue. We are also not even to understand that. I think they’re an attractive proposition for halfway through the premiumisation seeing too with the best frozen meals time-poor consumers. journey for the industry as a whole, that they are a premium product, “Given that 58% of buyers have with the aim to see premium there’s less wastage, and things that bought a ready meal as an alternative products across every single were once only available chilled can to going out for dinner and over a category. So with the innovation and now be brought frozen and served IN FROM THE third have eaten them on a special pro-activeness that we have come to at home as if it’s something they’ve occasion, there is plenty of room in expect from our industry, I am very made themselves.” the market for indulgent variants,” confident we will continue to see Karen’s jumbo cod fish finger in a suggests a recent report from market such gains maintained.” gluten-free crumb is a great example: analysts Mintel. In fact Mintel’s A trend towards quality has made the kind of meal which would trigger analysts forecast a 30% increase its mark; with so many consumers many an allergy-grappling parent in the value of the ready meals and considering that ‘staying in is the new to start to cook from scratch. The ready to cook market, suggesting going out’, retailers have been able to search for artisan makers willing COLDPremium frozen food is that while a chunk of this growth sell increasingly aspirational dishes. to cater specifically for the frozen will come from inflation, ‘a return “Premiumisation and innovative market, and keep your freezer performing strongly, but what’s to growth for real incomes should NPDs across all frozen categories cabinet a few steps ahead of what’s encourage trading up’. has been one of the biggest drivers available at your local Waitrose, has forcing shoppers’ hands when of the industry’s success in recent also evolved. “I’m always looking out On the up years,” confirms John. “The quality for things that are new and unusual,” making a choice at the freezer? The British Frozen Food Federation and innovation that has been shown says Karen. “A few years ago it was is understandably upbeat about the by the industry recently is offering hard work, but in the last one or opportunities in this sector, which shoppers tasty, restaurant-quality two years I constantly have artisan is growing faster than chilled or food in their own homes, with producers knocking on my door. ambient. “2018 was an outstanding gourmet products such as dressed Millennials are looking at unusual year for frozen food in the UK, lobster and beef wellington available products, healthy meals. And they’re with the industry now worth £8.6 straight from the freezer, filling a willing to pay a bit more, so there’s a billion, with additional sales worth consumer demand for high-quality plethora of new or young producers £340 million each year,” says chief food without the preparation.” honing in on that marketplace, and executive John Hyman. “We’re really talking to people like us.” excited about the future growth A taste for premium potential of frozen food, and have It’s a trend the industry has been all A flavour of the future set ourselves an industry target to happy to accommodate. “Frozen in This focus on innovation and

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as they’re judging the dish based on years on eating animal-based foods. CHILL OUT That’s why we’ve always been very ● 4.8% - the year-on-year growth proud that our customer base has in total frozen food sales in the period been mainly non-vegans, discovering ending Sept ‘18 a new way to eat – and loving it!” ● £6.2bn – the value of the UK’s Convenience counts retail frozen food market across all Back in the mainstream market, categories world cuisines are increasingly ● £74m – additional consumer popular, with Euromonitor reporting spend on ice cream during last year’s that Asian ready meals recorded the scorching summer. highest value growth in frozen and chilled in 2018. “Average prices for Source: Kantar Worldpanel these meals were significantly higher, demonstrating that consumers from frozen, another main driver for are willing to pay more for them,” consumer use is the ability to cook suggests the analyst’s November homemade recipes using frozen report Ready Meals in the United ingredients, drastically cutting down Kingdom. British consumers are preparation time and food waste,” increasingly adventurous and willing says John Hyman. “Component to try new food that is encouraging ingredients such as ready-chopped the trend.” onions vegetables and herbs allow Whatever the tastes of your consumers to cook delicious meals customers, the convenience of straight from the freezer.” frozen – especially for shoppers Health, another macro trend who feel the guilt associated with in the food and drink industry, is binning abandoned perishables – will also well catered for. “Categories evolution is important, says Mintel, ‘the year of the vegan’. Supermarkets needed. And often, really incredible continue to appeal. Statistics from such as frozen fruits for smoothies which identifies novel flavours, have scrambled to meet this market, vegan dishes require fairly premium Mintel suggest the biggest slice of and breakfast toppers, as well as dishes and concepts as integral to with Iceland, Tesco and M&S leading ingredients and this isn’t something the market in frozen ready meals is quick and healthy products such as the categories appeal. “Ready meals the field in own-brand plant-based large scale producers are happy to for consumers who buy and eat them sweet potatoes and pre-prepared and ready-to-cook foods are an frozen meals. But Thea Brook, a source or invest in.” around once a month, with around avocados have been real frozen established part of many consumers’ new player entering the market So should you expect your 22% of shoppers calling on them success stories,” says John. “They meal repertoires, with young adults after a successful foray in food customers to take their time at the one to two times a week. Weekday offer shoppers ease and flexibility being core users, and uptake falling service, sees a gap in the market for freezer cabinet, avidly studying the dinners are the most common while maintaining the freedom to with age,” points out Mintel’s premium options to temp shoppers nutritionals in the meal their holding, time for consumers to crack into a cook from scratch. Frozen really report. “While the convenience of in independent retailers. “It’s great or are they likely to buy impulsively ready meal, found Mintel, with the can provide a solution for every the products makes them a good that supermarkets are working on on flavour profile? “It really depends inclusion of premium ingredients consumer requirement.” fit for the busy lives of these young increasing the number of vegan on where the consumer is on their falling only just behind low salt “We see the future of frozen consumers, their appetite for more dishes they offer,” she starts, “but it’s personal journey with plant-based content and environmentally- food as incredibly positive,“ John exciting flavours and cuisines will very early days with their product eating,” says Thea. “Longer-term friendly packaging as consumers. concludes. “As we continue to see need to be catered for in order to development and as a result a lot of vegans are definitely more interested innovation across the sector as a retain their interest in the market.” the products aren’t amazing.” in flavour, as they know how to Towards zero waste whole, and as consumers continue One clear market trend affecting Thea’s perspective is informed by balance their nutritional intake with With many households working to to harness the everyday relevance the millennials demographic the evolution of her brand The Brook, a varied diet. Those who are newer reduce their food waste, frozen also of frozen food with its premium is, of course, veganism, so it’s which has metamophasised from a to it are, rightly, very interested in has an opportunity for growth with quality, convenience and natural not surprising that plant-based couple of award-winning restaurants nutrients, to ensure they continue scratch cooks. “While frozen food health credentials, we expect to see revolution is making its mark on into is a box meal service and – eating well as they switch. However, offers vast ranges of high quality, a move towards consumers visiting frozen meals. Statisticians are tellingly – a blast-frozen range for they’re also very sensitive to taste, prepared dishes that can be cooked the freezer as often as the fridge.” struggling to track the rocketing retail making its trade show debut at demand for plant-based products IFE next month. “It’s not just enough but the 987% YOY growth reported to offer a meal free from animal 2018 was an outstanding year for frozen food in the UK, by the Vegan Society in 2017 has products,” Thea suggests. “It has “ shown no sign of losing momentum. to be a damn tasty meal too. That’s with the industry now worth £8.6 billion, with additional sales In fact The Economist dubbed 2019 where experienced vegan chefs are worth £340 million each year ”

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CHAMPAGNE COMES TO ENGLAND Renowned French champagne houses are setting down roots in the UK. Robin Goldsmith finds out why

he Champenois aren’t just US, sees English sparkling wine’s is keen to point out. “Jean-Manuel from Champagne. For the across La Manche. “It’s not a watching English wine reputation growing rapidly within Jacquinot was instrumental in Champenois, the appeal works on question of moving Champagne to closely, they’re involving the trade as well as with consumers. helping Nyetimber in its first few many levels. On the one hand, the England; it is above all a new Tthemselves directly. In February “The timing to import English years, Hervé Jestin’s been at UK is one of their biggest markets business opportunity. The 2018, Champagne house Vranken- sparkling wine into the US is Hambledon for a while now and and they have historic links here, so companies who have invested Pommery Monopole released its perfect now as the quality of these Didier Pearson has been involved it makes sense to support the recently are already big brand first English sparkling wine, Louis wines has reached world-class too. For major Champagne houses category by investing in this names known all over the world. It Pommery England Brut, with standards. English wines did not to put their money where their country. It’s also a hedge against will be quite easy for them to create grapes sourced from Hampshire, have much recognition or even mouth is and put significant climate change. It’s no secret that a second wine that will benefit from Essex and Sussex and named in awareness in the past, so there is a investment into English wine Champagne has been warming up the influence of their main brand honour of Pommery’s founder. novelty element that makes English provides a ringing endorsement for and harvests are tending to get and even if this is not written on the Made in collaboration with sparkling wine exciting and the just how far English wine has come. earlier. Moving that bit further label, it will be known as ‘their Hattingley Valley, this is the first Royal Wedding this year has It’s a nascent but world class north into the UK can be second brand’. “Gremillet also time an English wine has been sold focused attention too! American category, with a very bright future.” a sensible move.” makes the point that competition by a Champagne house. In May trade and consumers like to try new So what is it about the English for sparkling wine prominence 2017, Champagne Taittinger products and with English sparkling wine style in terms of its “Having competitors benefits the whole industry. “As a became the first Grande Marque sparkling wine they are always differentiation from Champagne making other sparkling brand, Champagne still maintains Champagne house to own and plant pleasantly surprised, viewing it as that warrants the serious interest of wines is good for its premium positioning at the very an English vineyard, Domaine an alternative to Champagne and the Champenois? “For a start, it’s everybody, spurring us top of the quality ladder, so all the Evremond, choosing the chalky premium sparkling wines like English”, says Richards, “so may all on to continue Champagne producers must work soils of Chilham, Kent for their site. Crémant and Cava. The fact that appeal to people for that reason. improving quality” to create value if we want to Initially 20 hectares (over 100,000 leading Champagne houses invest Stylistically, the differences are not Champagne houses that aren’t maintain this. Having competitors vines) were planted, but this is set in English sparkling wine is great super clear cut, especially as investing (yet) in the UK also view making other sparkling wines is to expand to 40 hectares with the recognition for the quality and English winemakers become more this phenomenon as a smart good for everybody, spurring us all first wines expected in 2023. growth potential of this category, as and more proficient at imbuing commercial mood. For example, on to continue improving quality.” As interest and investment in well as putting English sparkling their sparkling wines with Anne Gremillet of Champagne While direct involvement and English viticulture and vine wine even more in the spotlight!” complexity and elegance. That said, Gremillet sees the appeal of an expertise from the Champenois can plantings continue to grow each English fizz can often have a extra revenue stream for only benefit English winemaking year with exports due to reach 25% “English wine is a brightness of orchard fruit, allied to Champagne houses as a clear knowledge and quality, it remains of production in 2020, does the nascent but world class a vibrancy and urgency of acidity driving factor in the decision of paramount that the end product has presence of Champagne houses on category, with a very and structure, which can set it apart some Champenois to make wine to be judged on its own merits. these shores represent how bright future” seriously English wine is being For Peter Richards MW, taken across the globe? investment from Champagne According to WineGB, the US is houses represents substantial As interest and investment in English viticulture and vine the primary export market for vindication of the commitment and 2018/2019 with the metro market quality evidenced by the country’s plantings“ continue to grow each year with exports due to reach seen as key for English sparkling top sparkling winemakers. wine sales. Arnaud Brachet, However, recognition by the 25% of production in 2020, does the presence of Champagne president of ABCK Corp, the Champenois of the potential for houses on these shores represent how seriously English wine is company responsible for importing world-class viticulture in the south and marketing Chapel Down in the of England is not new, as Richards being taken across the globe? ” @specialityfood 37

While Brexit remains the elephant in the room (or should that The recent interest from Champagne be vineyard?), Brachet is not unduly “houses for planting in England makes worried by the economic uncertainty this brings. “We don’t me think that at last, time has arrived for really see any direct connection between Brexit and English the recognition of the great potential of sparkling wine in the US as of now. English terroir and of the premium quality It’s still a very early stage for English sparkling wine in the US and both of English sparkling wines and what can be trade and consumers are focusing on discovering and tasting the wine. achieved here If Brexit leads to significant changes ” in exchange rates or import duties, “The English wine present danger, the romance of there could be an impact on pricing, industry is providing wine, to go to their heads.” but it is too early to have any clear much needed rural Robinson stresses that it’s also visibility on that. What is clear is development and jobs in important to acknowledge the skills, that the future of English sparkling agriculture at a time talent and application of English wine in the US will be bright, as its when that sector is winemakers. “It is very encouraging top quality gets more and more adjusting to Brexit” to see our home grown talent coming recognized by wine connoisseurs Seely is in no doubt that without the through and Plumpton College must and consumers in general.” financial investment from people be congratulated for enabling this to Continuing investment, rising like Malcolm Isaac who believed happen. While in the early days of quality, global recognition and As interest and investment in English viticulture and vine deeply in the future of English English sparkling wine, French (and availability of English sparkling “ sparkling wine, it is almost certain other) winemakers provided – and wine, the effects of climate change, plantings continue to grow each year with exports due to reach 25% that the great potential of British continue to provide – a body of the development of a clear identity of production in 2020, does the presence of Champagne houses on terroir would have had less expertise, it was always going to be and style plus increasing knowledge exposure. Simon Robinson, necessary to develop a cadre of UK and expertise among the these shores represent how seriously English wine is being taken “Producing sparkling wine in quality of English sparkling wines chairman of WineGB, who himself winemakers who understand our winemakers themselves are forging England”, Gremillet adds, “is much and what can be achieved here. It is with his wife Nicola invested conditions. We need to do more to a positive future for this home- across the globe? less restrictive than in France for clear that Champagne houses have heavily in Hattingley Valley, praises produce a larger cadre of grown industry. Direct involvement ” Champagne, as we have very strict seen the opportunity of doing the foresight of the early pioneers, viticulturalists who understand our of the Champenois will not only help regulations and quality control. something special in England.” but also advises some caution and a unique climatic conditions, but I share expertise and further the English winemaking can be inspired by what we do in English winemaking can be While Seely sees much in good dose of realism on future have no doubt that will happen over skills of winemaking within the UK, “ inspired by what we do in common between Exton Park’s investments. “It is gratifying to see time. Indeed, we are now even but it should also play a significant Champagne, but what it then has to do is not copy Champagne but Champagne, but what it then has to sloping, pure chalk soils and that the vision of the relatively early, but seeing examples of developments role in educating the broader wine- do is not copy Champagne but find of the Côte des Blancs, she also more recent, entrants to the and techniques here being reported buying public in understanding why find its own identity its own identity.” sees many terroir-based challenges. industry now being realised as with interest back to Champagne, English sparkling wine should ” “There are so many differences increasing volumes of high quality which is a very satisfying command similar price points to “The time has arrived in terms of density of plantation, wines are produced and sold both in position to be in.” other traditional method sparklers, The recent interest from Champagne houses for planting for the recognition of pruning, rainfall, sunshine, dates the UK and overseas. The recent notably Champagne. Surely we can “ the great potential of of flowering and harvesting. No one paper from WineGB, Looking to the “The number who all raise a glass to that… of English in England makes me think that at last, time has arrived for the English terroir” doubts that it still remains a huge Future, suggests that the industry decline to drink English bubbly, of course! recognition of the great potential of English terroir and of the At Exton Park Vineyard, visionary challenge to make super premium will experience rapid growth for sparkling wine at all has investor Malcolm Isaac saw the quality wines in England, even some time and that the UK will be shrunk considerably premium quality of English sparkling wines and what can be achieved advantage of employing Corinne with direct expertise from the seen as a producer of very high and continues to fall” Seely, a French vigneronne with Champenois, but it will certainly quality wine, also thereby providing Despite the positive vibes coming here experience of making wine across increase the reputation of English much needed rural development from the industry, many consumers ” the world. “I find English terroir sparkling wine if big Champagne and jobs in agriculture at a time say they still prefer to pay £30-£40 fascinating to express, while the names come here. Foreign when that sector is adjusting to for a bottle of Champagne, rather Overall, the industry has a good future ahead of it, so long as climate is the most challenging I’ve investment should attract the Brexit. The greatest challenge at than spending the same amount on ever dealt with in my career”, she attention of the whole world, present is probably ensuring English sparkling wine. Therefore, “investors keep a careful eye on matters and do not allow that ever explains. “The recent interest from becoming a good, free marketing winemaking capacity keeps up with an important issue is whether big Champagne houses for planting in strategy for English sparkling wines the increase in the planted area. names like Taittinger and Pommery present danger, the romance of wine, to go to their heads England makes me think that at as long as they retain their identity Overall, the industry has a good can help English sparkling wine ” last, time has arrived for the and do not merely become a replica future ahead of it, so long as increase its appeal to the British recognition of the great potential of of sparkling wines from investors keep a careful eye on public, so that more people will view English terroir and of the premium other countries.” matters and do not allow that ever the category as one worthy of premium price points. Robinson offers his thoughts on this: “There will always be those who prefer Champagne, just as there are people who prefer Burgundy to Bordeaux, but the number who decline to drink English sparkling wine at all has shrunk considerably and continues to fall. There are similar developments outside the UK, with the US in particular being attracted by what we can offer. The exciting development recently is that the leading English sparkling wine producers are increasingly not seeking to mimic Champagne any longer. They are developing their own style and approach which seeks to satisfy their customers. That can only be good for the industry as a whole and English sparkling wine will, I am sure, continue to evolve, as makers respond to the challenges faced by Prosecco and Cava as well as Champagne. Also there are already some producers moving into other methods of sparkling wine production, which will almost certainly command lower prices and offer a wider variety of sparkling wine styles to choose from.”

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I often use Wild Irish Seaweed, which is sustainably hand harvested by the Talty THE INDEPENDENT Family off the coast of Co. Clare. All their seaweeds are 100% naturally grown and organically certified, ensuring only the finest end product. SHOPPER St Tola Irish Goat Cheese is known as one of the premium In the run up to St Patrick’s Day, London-based artisan products in Ireland. It has been hand-made to suit chef, Anna Haugh, discusses her passion individual customers’ needs and requirements in the townland of for Irish produce Inagh, just south of the Burren in County Clare since the early 1980s. The St Tola herd of goats cook Modern European Another favourite is the The are reared on 65 acres of unspoiled food with an Irish influence. Burren Smokehouse, owned and pasturelands – considered some of Although I’m based in London, managed by husband and wife the finest and purest farmland of Imy food is connected to Ireland team, Birgitta and Peter Curtin. its type in Europe. and I’m always looking for great The salmon arrives fresh from I would also recommend The farmers, butchers, small fisheries sustainable farming and don’t use the organic fish farms on the Irish Market Butchers who now have and cheese suppliers. In the kitchen, chemical fertilisers or pesticides Atlantic coast and the team smoke to sites in Kildare, Rathcoole and I like to make everything from – their ethos is ‘farm to plate’ and the highest standards on-site. Dublin, but deliver to customers scratch and as the seasons change, they keep everything as natural as Clonakilty Blackpudding is where far and wide. They are committed I get excited about changing the possible. They have a small herd I get my puddings. It’s the leading to producing farm-fresh meats menu to suit – this is made easier of continental beef cattle and free- black pudding in Ireland, made using by sourcing the best produce when you have brilliant Irish range Saddleback pigs. Everything premium Irish beef. Colette Twomey available from responsible producers and suppliers is farmed in a traditional way and is the sole owner and the only person farms, following time-honoured to celebrate. they keep their cattle outdoors, with who knows the secret spice mix – methods of selecting, hanging and One of my favourite suppliers in shelter, all year around – always using a recipe that originated in the maturing, and using traditional Ireland is Burren Farm in Kilfenora. producing the best quality pork town of Clonakilty in the 1880s – and butchering methods and skills Stephen and Eva Hegarty believe in and beef. hasn’t changed it since. with a modern twist.

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Last Words KNOW The final word 0% on fine food

Editor Accounts Sue Carr 01206 505903 Holly Shackleton, 01206 505981 Art Director [email protected] Lee Whiteford [email protected] Editorial Director Illustrations Louise Abbott Emily Seddon [email protected] Publisher Helen Tudor 01206 505970 Group Advertising Manager Published by Sam Reubin 01206 505936 Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix [email protected] Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY Senior Account Manager Jessica Stevenson 01206 505901 Next issue available: February 2019 [email protected] Subscriptions 01293 312188 [email protected] Account Manager Lydia Allis 01206 505934 The BAR rate UK £29.25. Overseas £40.00 [email protected] Tel. 01778 392464

@specialityfood LAST WORDS 39

nyone who knows me have a story to tell – you’ve chosen well, in a professional to stock them for a reason beyond or personal capacity, TALKING SHOP their margin. A product’s flavour willA know of my penchant for could be worthy of tasting notes and @SpecialityFood linkedin.com/company/speciality-food specialityfoodmagazine communication. This takes many pairing suggestions, it could have forms; as well as it being impossible an unusual back story, or it could to stop me mid-chat when I’m be a great ambassador for the local waxing lyrical about the something area. Consumers come to you for a or other that has commanded my Moving into a retail context, happening again? Why aren’t more approach to your retail displays. connection with the food and drink interest that week, I’m resolute in consider this scenario. You’re solutions utilised – ways around Create hero products and create they’re buying – it’s why they’re my philosophy that communication in a food shop, there are lots of the impass created when busy staff some literature to help your shopping at your establishment makes the world go round. customers around and the staff meet curious customers? One way customers connect with it; these for certain items rather than their Consider the times you’ve seem busy and harassed. You stop to cater for their questions is to could be exciting new additions local supermarket, so make sure experienced impasses in life. How one of them to ask a question, but answer them before they’re even to your shelves, items created by they’re catered for even in the often could the impass have been get a brief and perfunctory answer asked through display and signage. a local maker you feel deserves a event of stressed staff. A couple of avoided by both parties taking the back doesn’t quite satisfy your But if the story behind every item bigger profile in your community, hours spent creating educational time to have a conversation – to curiosity but does act to make you in your shop was told on a sign, or food and drink which plug into displays could lead to informed and understand all sides of the situation feel uncomfortable taking up their you’d a) be faced with information a current trend you’re dipping appreciative customers, and the and go on to work, together, to time and space in their store. They overload, and b) struggle to create your toe into. look of a shop passionate about its find a solution which works for clearly don’t have the time to give attractive displays. Instead, treat A great number of the products place in the sector. That’s a win-win both? Instead of this, I bet that bad your query much thought and you this as a long-term change of you sell in your establishment in my book. communication led to tempers don’t feel able to request more being frayed and discussions ending information from them, so you on a note unsatisfying for both, with leave none the wiser while they A couple of hours spent creating educational displays could neither side having got what they walk off stressed. “lead to informed customers and the look of a shop passionate needed and nobody keen to repeat We’ve all been there, so why isn’t the occasion. more time given to avoiding this about its place in the sector ” 5 MINUTES WITH… DIARY DATES ALLAN WATTS Sleep Well February 12th-14th ICE CREAM & GELATO EXPO Yorkshire Event Centre, Harrogate ice-cream.org 13th-15th BIOFACH Nuremberg, Germany biofach.de/en 17th-21st GULFOOD Dubai gulfood.com 25th-10th FAIRTRADE FORTNIGHT Nationwide fairtrade.org.uk WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING HOW ABOUT THE FOOD 25th-27th IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY? FRA/FARMA CONFERENCE INDUSTRY? Unbelievably diverse and full Oxford Finishing my novel. It’s only taken of so many clever people doing farma.org.uk 12 years so far… amazing things with real passion WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? and devotion. 27th-28th THE CASUAL DINING SHOW I worked on the beach at a WHAT WOULD BE YOUR deck chair concession. Best LAST SUPPER? ExCeL, London summer ever. Picnic and a bottle of something casualdiningshow.co.uk nice with my family and the dog WHAT INSPIRES YOU? sitting by Alcock Tarn high above Endeavour. It is the one thing that the Lake District. I’m not sure you March links all species – the constant can get closer to heaven. effort to improve or survive. 5th-7th EXPOWEST CORNWALL WHAT’S YOUR MOTTO? TEA OR COFFEE? Royal Cornwall Showground, What’s for you won’t go by you. Wine. Wadebridge Though on my tombstone I want expowestcornwall.co.uk WHAT’S THE WORST JOB “I still say I was right”. YOU’VE DONE? WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST THING 10th-11th I was a graphic designer for a short YOU’VE EVER EATEN? HARROGATE FINE FOOD while at a printer. I was rubbish at SHOW Not sure if it’s weird but certainly it, not an artistic bone in my body Yorkshire Event Centre, Harrogate the most offensive was andouille and my boss was horrid. Thankfully sausage in France. gff.co.uk/shows/ffsn I have a great design team working on our Sleep Well brand! WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE 17th-20th BOOK? IFE WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE ExCeL, London PART OF THE JOB? Currently, This is Going To Hurt by Adam Kay but there are hundreds ife.co.uk Customer feedback – knowing on our study bookshelves I could that you have made a real positive read several times over. 18th-20th difference for someone is awesome. PRO2PAC SWEET OR SAVOURY? ExCeL, London AND YOUR LEAST FAVOURITE? Savoury pro2pac.co.uk Finances

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