URBN Global Fabric and Testing Manual
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
URBN INC. GLOBAL Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ, PRINT AND SEND BACK A SIGNED COPY TO: MILLS – [email protected] VENDORS – [email protected] Or mail to: URBN |Building 543 | 5000 South Broad Street | Philadelphia | PA19112 | USA Vendor/Mill Name (the “Mill”): Contact Person: I represent and agree that I read and fully understand the processes and regulations outlined in this document as required by URBN. On behalf of the Mill, I agree that the Mill will follow these processes and regulations, and that the Mill will be responsible for any damages, including lost sales, related to the Mill’s failure to comply with any of these requirements. Signed: Date: Contents Section Product Section 1 Care Symbols Section 2 Labelling Section 3 Fabric Manual and Testing Requirements Section 4 Garment Testing Requirements and Assessment Criteria Section 5 Regulatory Requirements Section 1 Care Symbols GB/T 8586 Standard All 5 symbols must display on the care label and in the below order. Wash Symbol Description Product Do Not Wash To be used for dry clean or wipe clean only products. Hand Wash To be used for delicate product such as embellishment. 40 Degree Machine Wash To be used as the standard for all garments. 40 Degree Delicate Wash To be used for underwear. 40 Degree Wool Wash To be used for true knitwear only. Bleach Symbol Description Product Use only non-chlorine To be used as the standard for all bleach when needed garments. Do Not Bleach When garments cannot be bleached Drying Symbol Description Product Cool Tumble Dry To be used when garments can be tumble dried. Do Not Tumble Dry To be used as standard for all garments. Iron Symbol Description Product Do Not Iron To be used for garments with coatings or dry clean only products. Cool Iron (Max plate temp To be used for lightweight or pressure 110 degrees) sensitive cloths. Medium Iron (Max plate To be used for cloths such as polyester, temp 150 degrees) viscose, wool or silk. Hot Iron (Max plate temp To be used for cloths such as linen or 200 degrees) wool. Dry Clean Symbol Description Product Do Not Dry Clean To be used as the standard for all garments. Professional Dry Clean, To be used for all dry clean only products Perchloroethylene such as tailoring. Solvents, Normal Process Professional Dry Clean, To be used for delicate, dry clean only Perchloroethylene products such as embellishment. Solvents, Mild Process Section 2 Labeling Care Labels: • Vendors may print their own label using the artwork in appendix 1. • Care label wording and translations are available on the Vendor Website. • Garments with multiple parts (belts, removable hoods, liners) must be labeled ‘part of a set’. • Garments with removable liners should have two care labels. One per item. • Care instructions must be written out in English, French & Chinese • Labels must use GB/T8586 symbols The following information will appear on the care label as standard: • Wash care • Style number • Chinese Size • RN #66170 • CA #32054 • 24 West Street, London, WC2H9NA Fibers and Fiber Content: • Fibre content must be listed on all products by generic fibre name, in predominance by weight of fiber. o A fiber trademark name may be used on a content label as long as it appears next to the generic fiber name. ▪ Example: 100% Lycra® Spandex o If using a trade name, the vendor must have legal documentation that the product is manufactured by the company with the registered trademark. • Required translations: English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Chinese Example: 90% Cotton 10% Polyester • If a product is composed of two or more sections, with different fibre contents, the fibre content of each section should be shown separately. Example: Body: 100% Cotton, Sleeve: 50% Polyester, 50% Cotton • Only approved names for textile fibres may be used. Please see appendix 2. • Decorative trims do not need to be included in the fibre composition wording on the care label. This only applies to embellishment not integral to the garment. Country of Origin • Country of origin label must be placed at back neck or waist • COO translations: English, French, Spanish Wool Labelling Any product that contains wool (except rugs, carpets and upholsteries) must comply with the Wool Products Labelling Act. These products must contain labels that accurately reflect the items' fiber content, the country of origin, and either the name or registered identification number (RN or WPL number) issued by the FTC to the manufacturer or marketer. Labels on apparel items also must show a safe cleaning method. Fur Labelling All fur and faux fur products must be labelled in compliance with applicable international, federal and state laws and regulations. Real Fur* • Fur products must be labelled to comply with FTC regulations as well as any US State regulations. Per FTC requirements, fur products must have a label disclosing: • the animal name • the name or RN of the manufacturer, importer or other seller, marketer, or distributor. • the country of origin for imported fur • if the fur is pointed, dyed, bleached or artificially colored. o If none of these treatments applies, the fur should be labelled “natural.” • if the fur product is composed in whole or substantial part • if the fur is used or damaged. • the textile or wool content of any part of the product. For further detail on fur labelling requirements, please visit the FTC’s website – https://www.ftc.gov/node/119458 • Fur products must also be labelled in accordance with Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 • The presence of non-textile parts of animal origin in textile products shall be indicated by using the phrase ‘Contains non-textile parts of animal origin’ on the labelling or marking of products containing such parts whenever they are made available on the market. • The labelling or marking shall not be misleading and shall be carried out in such a way the consumer can easily understand. *If your product contains real fur, you must reach out to URBN Regulatory Compliance department. Faux Fur Faux fur products must be labelled with the words “Faux Fur”, in addition to any other applicable labelling requirements. Leather and Imitation Leather Labelling Leather and Imitation Leather products must be labelled in accordance with the FTC Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products, 16 CFR 24. If all or part of an industry product is made of non-leather material that appears to be leather, the fact that the material is not leather, or the general nature of the material as something other than leather, should be disclosed. For example: Not leather; Imitation leather; Simulated leather; Vinyl; Vinyl coated fabric; or Plastic. Leather products must also be labelled in accordance with Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 • The presence of non-textile parts of animal origin in textile products shall be indicated by using the phrase ‘Contains non-textile parts of animal origin’ on the labelling or marking of products containing such parts whenever they are made available on the market. • The labelling or marking shall not be misleading and shall be carried out in such a way the consumer can easily understand. Bamboo Per the Federal Trade Commission, textile products may only be labelled as “bamboo” if they are made directly from actual bamboo fiber - often called “mechanically processed bamboo”. Textiles made from rayon (or viscose) that was created using bamboo as a plant source must be labelled and advertised as “rayon (or viscose) made from bamboo” - or more simply, rayon or viscose. Polyurethane (PU) and Polyvinylchloride (PVC): • Must be clearly labelled as ‘faux’ leather. • Bonded cloths to be quoted: Face and Backing. • A percentage must not be used when stating these materials and the chemical names must not be abbreviated to PU or PVC. Example: Artificial Leather: Polyurethane. Backing: 100% polyester Mohair (Angora Goat Hair): • Vendors must label all mohair products as “Mohair: Angora Goat Hair”. Devoré and Burnout • The sample used for Devoré fibre composition testing must be big enough to represent the entire pattern. • Fibre composition should be tested before the burnout process on burn out fabrics. Velvets, plush, pile and faux fur fabrics: For all the above fabrics, where the fabric is comprised of a backing and raised surface, both the pile and backing should be listed on the care label. Example: Pile: 100% Polyester, Backing: 100% viscose If the composition of both parts is the same, a total fibre composition is accepted. Flammability: All apparel must comply with the flammability standards set forth in 16 CFR 1610. • Certain fabrics are exempt from testing based on weight or fiber content (but are not exempt from the standard). Apparel made entirely from one or more of these fabrics is exempt: o Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighing 2.6 ounces per square yard or more o All fabrics (both plain surface and raised-fiber surface) regardless of weight, made entirely from any of the following fiber or entirely from a combination of these fibers: Acrylic, Modacyrlic, Nylon, Polyester, Wool, Olefin • Exceptions to the flammability standard for garments: o Interlining fabrics All nightwear and intimates must be labelled with the KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE label (red letters, 10 point font, uppercase) All nightwear must also comply with the Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985 (UK), BS5722:1984, The British Standard for the flammability of nightwear • Standard for the flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film - 16 CFR Part 1611 Where applicable, products must comply with the Standard for the Flammability of Plastic Vinyl Film. The standard applies to all uncovered or exposed parts of wearing apparel made from non-rigid, unsupported plastic, rubber or other synthetic or natural film or sheeting, including transparent, translucent, and opaque material, whether plain, embossed, molded, or otherwise surface treated, which is in a form or condition ready for use in wearing apparel, and includes film or sheeting exceeding 10 mils (0.254 mm) in thickness.