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Winter 2012 - 2013

Visiting Getting there from Kyiv, visa issues and the highlights to both and St-Petersburg Bukovel ’s top-notch ski resort

N°51 www.inyourpocket.com Contents All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

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Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides Contents 3

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents

Arriving & Transport 5 Arriving in Kyiv, getting to the city, car rental and public transport

Basics 8 Some useful information

Culture & Events 11 Culture celebrations & Sport events

Visiting Russia 16 The essentials for a weekend in Moscow and St-Petersburg

Where to stay 20 A fine selection of places to spend the night Winter weather in Kyiv is cold, wet and frosty. Restaurants 29 If you’re going out and still think to wear or not gloves and Kyiv dining scene a cap, think twice and put all that warm clothes on. Then Cafés 35 nothing will disturb you from enjoying our beautiful city.

Nightlife 36 Bars, Pubs & Clubs Sightseeing Essential Kyiv 39 Museums 43 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 46

Bukovel 47 Ukraine’s top-notch ski resort

Sport & Leisure 48 Winter sports and indoor options

Shopping 49 Shopping mals, fashion and food

Lifestyle directory 50 Useful directory for staying in Kyiv

Business directory 52 Banks, accountants and lawyers Maps & Index Street register & Index 53 Since New Year and Christmas time is coming and Maps 55 everyone needs presents, plenty of shopping centres can be visited around Kyiv. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 4 Foreword Arrival & transport

Much to the Grinch’s delight, Christmas celebra- tions were officially banned during the Soviet era. The World of In Your Pocket Much to the Grinch’s dissatisfaction, contemporary Ukrainians are making up for lost Christmases by Northern celebrating twice: once on December 24 and of- Ireland Russia ficially on January 7. The good old habit of partying Ireland on New Year’s Eve is still alive and well, and if you happen to be in Kyiv, expect plenty of decorated trees, massive firework displays and enough vodka to send Did Moroz (Grandfather Frost, a.k.a Santa Clause) to an early grave. Netherlands Poland Locals usually spend New Year’s Eve with family Germany Belgium Ukraine and friends eating massive portions of scrump- Czech tious festive dishes, exchanging presents and Republic partying until the sun comes up. Thousands are expected to join the traditional outdoor party on Austria (Independence Square), and Switzerland Slovenia Romania with hundreds of business owners already in place Croatia protesting the country’s new tax code, celebrations Italy Bosnia Serbia at the capital’s main square should be extra special Bulgaria this year. Getting a table at a popular restaurant Montenegro Kosovo or club can be tricky - many have been booked FYR Macedonia for months - but don’t get discouraged, these Albania things have a magical way of working their way Greece out. According to local tradition, if you make a wish More than 20 years since we published the first In when the clock strikes twelve and then drink the Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - we champagne in your glass to the final drop, your wish have grown to become the largest publisher of will come true. locally produced city guides in Europe. We now Christmas in Ukraine is officially celebrated on cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with January 7, the date designated by the Ukrainian Or- Oristano, on the Italian island of Sardinia, the latest thodox calendar. Festivities begin on Christmas Eve city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, (Sviat Vechir) with Holy Supper (Sviata Vecheria). witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Family and friends come together to feast on an Your Pocket guides published each year is app- eye-popping, belly-busting assortment of no less roaching five million. We also publish an iPhone than 12 dishes including the mandatory Kuti - por- app, including more than 40 guides, which can be ridge prepared with a special syrup of honey, grated downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for poppy seeds, raisins and walnuts. Enjoy! ‘IYP Guides’ by name. The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Z Novym Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ (Merry Christmas)! inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES 2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova of this publication may be reproduced Publisher Research Natasha Martisova in any form, except brief extracts for Layout & Design the purpose of review, without written Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. permission from the publisher and Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25 Photos © Oleg Stelmakh copyright owner. The brand name In Your Kyiv 04080, Ukraine Cover photo www.flickr.com Pocket is used under license from UAB In tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, +380 67 977 44 16 Vilnius, Lithuania). [email protected] Sales & Circulation Editor’s note Registration No. KB 7467 General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky © Neolitas-KIS Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for Printed by Express Poligraph, Kyiv Kyiv advertising. Sponsored listings are Published 4 times per year Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 clearly marked as such. We welcome all 60,000 copies annualy readers’ comments and suggestions. Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 We have made every effort to ensure Maps the accuracy of the information at the Odesa time of going to press and assume no © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2013 Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57 responsibility for changes and errors. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2013

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Arrival & transport 5 By plane Boryspil State International Airport (Аеропорт Бориспiль) In the news is where almost all international flights land and depart. The smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни) is only 8km from centre and handles mostly domestic travel and Wizz Air flights from Europe. Located 34km east of Kyiv, Boryspil has recently opened its largest Terminal, D. International passengers now ar- rive and depart at Terminals B, D and F. Terminal B also services domestic flights. Ticket agents, immigration, and customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if you haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. Customs control has been greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still makes sense to travel light and pass through the green express line when arriving. If you need to connect to a local flight, a free shuttle bus circulates between terminals every 20 min. Feel like stretching your legs? Walk time between all Terminals is about 15 min. At all terminals you will find NEW STOP SMOKING LAW currency exchange offices (обмiн валют), information, You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, car rental offices, cafes, public telephones, etc. and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand Getting to town Exiting of the terminals in Boryspil Airport, smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a you are sure to be approached by cabbies. The 20-25 minute ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by ride to centre will set you back about 200-250Hr. SkyBuses one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are headed to Kyiv leave from Terminal B and F roughly every 10- located throughout the city. But a new more rigorous 15 minutes. The charge is 27Hr and the bus will drop you off law on smoking prohibition takes effect nationwide on about an hour later at the Central Train Station or you can get December 16, 2012. It sets a total ban on smoking in off at the first stop near the Kharkivska metro station (green restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), line). Tickets are available online at www.skybus.kiev.ua. cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions A taxi from Kyiv Zhulyany Airport to the city centre should (including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport not cost you more than 70Hr. Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr) (including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside brings you to Tereschenkivska street nearby Ploscha Lva apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other Tolstoho metro station (blue line). Trolleybus #22 goes to premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports, Dorohozhychi metro station (green line). Marshrutka #213 railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas (2.50Hr) shuttles passengers to Dorohozhychi (green line) equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines and Petrivka (blue line) metro stations. from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. Boryspil State International Airport Boryspil, tel. Passport for train tickets (+380) 44 393 43 71, www.kbp.aero. Kyiv Zhulyany Airport E-1, Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 79, tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08, www.airport.kiev.ua. By bus All international buses arrive at Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi avtovokzal). The station is still waiting for its European renovations and sits like a hideous centrepiece on Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). Starting from January 1, 2013 to buy a ticket for any Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you train (except regional) the one must produce a passport to the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Demiivs’ka metro or driving licence. Buying tickets online you should state station (blue line) is right near the bus station. Just go round you name at the certain fields. Boarding on a train you McDonalds’ building, pass a subway and find the metro also must provide a document. entrance to your right. Central Bus Station H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, MDemi- pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while ivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. QOpen 05:00 - 24:00. card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi By train rides to Khreschatyk Street area cost 50Hr and up. The The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (red line) is to your left вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic-looking South- as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M. ern Railway Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various located between the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central to the left from the central main hall boasts comfy couches station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down for a 10Hr admission fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard , which points and ATMs (банкомат) are in the main halls of each runs into Khreschatyk. station. Telephone calls can be made by paying money at a Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. window on the 2nd floor near the central station’s escalators 1, MVokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05, www.uz.gov. and then proceeding to the appropriate booth. Coin-operated ua/en. QOpen 24Hrs. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 6 arrival & transport

Car rental Public Transport Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110 km/h buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways. A zero minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding. tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but Avis H-4, Yams’ka 72, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 502 do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. 20 10, fax (+380) 44 502 20 14, www.avis.com.ua/ The metro en. Also at: Boryspil’ Airport, Terminal F, tel.: (+380) 44 591 The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traf- 70 09, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed fic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver Sat, Sun. A passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thought- Budget H-3, Ivana Lepse 4, MBeresteis’ka, tel. provoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time (+380) 44 490 10 88, [email protected], www.budget. while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and ua. Also at Boryspil airport, tel.: (+380) 44 591 69 87. neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent Europcar H-3, Gorkoho 48A, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those 44 238 26 91, fax (+380) 44 238 26 92, ua@europcar. in other European cities. Purchase your one way blue token relc.com, www.europcar.ua. Car and minivan rental. Chauf- for 2Hr from the expressionless booth attendant or from the feur service is available. Q A automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert Hertz Rent a Car Zdolbunivs’ka 7D, MPozniaky, your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green tel. (+380) 44 492 32 70, fax (+380) 44 492 32 73, so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be www.hertz.ua/en. One-way rentals. Chauffeur available. purchased from all token booths and are good from the first QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A of the month. There are three lines in Kyiv - M1 (red line), M2 (blue line) and M3 (green line). Thanks to EURO2012 we Sixt G-2, Dmytrievs’ka 46, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 finally got English schemes and directions on each station as 490 81 58, www.sixt.ua. Also at Boryspil airport, (+380) well as notices in English inside the carriages. 67 232 09 10. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat 09:00 - 16:00. A Trolleybuses, trams and buses Taxis These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from conduc- Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, tors and the driver on board. You should immediately validate but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a 40Hr fine Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tickets are good prices are usually fixed. for one journey only. Express tel. (+380) 44 239 15 15, www.express-taxi.ua. Microbuses and minivans Etalon tel. (+380) 44 501 55 01/502 54 54, www. The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route etalontaxi.com.ua. taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes. Limousine tel. (+380) 44 502 08 08/207 37 37, www. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the limuzintaxi.com/eng. same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted on the vehicle’s windshield or side window before it speeds SkyTaxi tel. (+380) 44 281 75 58/(+380) 50 268 by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you from A to B faster than 38 42, www.kbp.aero. This is an official taxi service by other forms of municipal transport, as they are smaller and Boryspil Airport. They offer competitive fares and gave 50% more manoeuvrable; an important feature on Kyiv’s jammed discount for a return trip to the airport. roads. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the stop, please”) when you’ve Street smarts had enough. Fares are paid as you board and currently range from 2.50 to 3Hr. Street вулиця (vul.) (VU-lytsia) Funicular Square площа (pl.) (PLO-scha) Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers be- Avenue проспект (prosp.) (pro-SPEKT) Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) (bul’-VAR) tween , on the bank of the , and the heights of Bridge міст (mist) Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting Embankment набережна (nab.) (NA-berezhna) from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro Highway шосе (shose) (sho-SE) River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and Lane провулок (prov.) (pro-VU-lok) souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may Descent узвіз (uzviz) (uz-VIZ) forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova Note Some streets in Kyiv have been renamed recently, ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the spectacu- however very often the old names are still widely used, lar St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for adults, and sometimes even more often than the new ones. Even children under seven ride free. maps and street signs do not agree on which version should be used. We decided on using the more popular €1 = 10.36Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.79Hr names. (29 November 2012 official rates)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com arrival & transport 7

Airline tickets Driving in Kyiv Aeroflot G-3, Saksahans’koho 112A, MVokzal’na, tel. Most westerners will find driving Kyiv’s main thorough- (+380) 44 241 99 98, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 fares relatively easy. The problems kick in when you drive - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. anywhere outside these well-surfaced and signposted AeroSvit A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 7A, ML’va routes. The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basically Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 90, www.aerosvit.com. wretched, especially after the winter thaw. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Another problem is road markings, especially the all- Alitalia – Compagnia Aerea Italiana S.p.A. A-5, I. important centre line, often go missing. In this case you Franko 34/33, 2nd floor, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where 44 492 72 22, www.alitalia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand Closed Sat, Sun. your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you Austrian Airlines A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va have a special green arrow next to the red light. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 289 20 32, www.aua.com.ua. Booklets containing all official rules of the road can be QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. purchased in Ukrainian and Russian just about anywhere British Airways A-3, B.Khmelnyts’koho 48B, 6th floor, books are sold. Rules in English have been spotted at the MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 585 50 50, www.ba.com. book market near the Petrivka metro station. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. The following is a shortlist of unofficial rules of the road: KLM A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, MZoloti - If you’re running late during peak, feel free to drive on Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 24 90, www.klm.ua. sidewalks, cut through the park or drive in the opposite QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A lanes against the flow of traffic. Lufthansa A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniver- - If your Lada overheats, just leave it in the lane where sytet, tel. (+380) 44 490 38 00, www.lufthansa.com. it stalled and come back later after the traffic jam you QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A just caused dies down. Ukraine International Airlines B-3, Lysenka 4, - If you’re driving on the highway and miss your exit, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 50 50, www.flyuia. pull over into the right lane, turn your hazard lights on com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. and proceed in reverse until you get back to the exit you wanted. Don’t worry about the cars speeding towards you; they are likely to get out of the way. Buying train tickets - Wearing your seatbelt can be very irritating and can For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket even cause injury. To disable that annoying seat belt at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the central (or southern) alarm, try stuffing a small piece of cardboard into the terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not speak buckling mechanism. English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good In an attempt to eliminate theses and other idiotic behav- idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on iours that have led Ukraine to having one of the world’s a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. worst road safety ratings, fines were increased in Novem- Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the ber 2008 by as much as 10 times. Drivers can now expect destination city name in English. Aside from the train station, to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr you can buy your tickets at the Central Ticket Office on Tarasa for major violations such as drunk driving. New seat belt Shevchenko bulv., which accepts credit cards. and helmet laws will be enforced. The days of being able Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, everywhere. Visit www.uz.gov.ua/en for train schedule. hopefully. Traffic patrol will be required to use video and Ticket booking options are also available there (though it may photo surveillance for all traffic stops. not work sometimes). There are several Kyiv stations in the Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two list, choose Kyiv-Pasazhyrsky (Kyiv-Pas. in the schedule) as months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with your arrival/departure. the National Auto Inspector (DAI). Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. 1, Parking is often impossible in the city centre, despite the abil- MVokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. QOpen 24hrs. ity to park on sidewalks. Many parking spaces are marked as pay zones and require special tickets. These parking passes Central Ticket Office G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. can be purchased from parking attendants (3-10Hr per hour, M 38/40, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. each ticket is good for one hour). Failure to display the proper QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. parking ticket can result in your car being booted.

departure date departure time number of your carriage (vagon)

number of the train

to/from stations seat/berth number

final price

arriving date and time kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 8 Basics Basics

Borders Basic data Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at Population: borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian Kyiv 2 785 100 wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! Ukraine: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012). You should expect close inspection of your documents and Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 70%, Russian 20%, belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers Others 10%. need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, embassies in Kyiv (see Directory/Foreign representatives). Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Drinking Territory: 603,700km2. Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol con- Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, tent is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establish- 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. ments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of horilka Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, (vodka), which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Danube. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and , Crime & Safety 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place, which was proved Kyiv vs. Kiev during EURO2012. However as in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league. disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respec- at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is tively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated. always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian ver- from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to sion, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally carry at least a copy of their passport with them at all times. preferred in Ukraine. Customs f you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs Communism duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organiza- valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a tion savagely vandalised Kyiv’s sole statue of . customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the Most people, Ukrainians included, think of the Bolshevik value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended Revolution as a Russian revolution - this is inaccurate. up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) Many top revolutionaries (Leon Trotsky, Gregory Zinoviev, V. A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and Volodarsky) were, in fact, from Ukraine. Also, many prominent taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was products should not total more than two kilograms, and there born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. Nikita Khrushchev moved should not be more than one package of the same product. from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the Goods with a total value of less than €2000 may be brought ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and is greater than €2000, but less than €10000 they will need memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian national- to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If ism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the goods famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence declaration requirements for imported cargo. showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. international alert and you have documents which prove your Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values the complete annihilation of political rivals including fellow party Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (T.Shevchenka bul’v. 3, members, commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone tel. (+380) 44 279 53 40/(+380) 44 279 56 47.) else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Basics Basics 9

Disabled travellers Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train sta- tion does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests. Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Rus- sian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electri- cal societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own. Language Money The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since inde- The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the pendence in 1991, it has become much more popular and transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some truly predominant. people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry The following is a list of some of the most common words denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, and phrases a person is likely to need. 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem find- Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) ing currency exchange points, but rates are better from central You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become plentiful Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have Ye s Так (tak) been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restau- No Ні (ni) rants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) Market values I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25 Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40 Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,59 $0,75 Where is…? Де знаходиться...? Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,94 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62 (de zna-KHO-dytsia) 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,33 $1,69 Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16 Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31 (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Official exchange rates (as of November 29): Days of the week €1 – 10.36Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr £1 – 12.79Hr Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Current exchange rates are available at Tuesday Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) Smoking Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) From December 16, 2012 smoking is prohibited in all public Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) places. The new law sets a total ban on smoking in restaurants, Numbers bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions (including playgrounds and 1 один (o-DYN) 7 сім (sim) stadiums), public transport (including stops), underpasses 2 два (dva) 8 вісім (VI-sim) (subways), and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and 3 три (try) 9 дев’ять (DE-vyat’) lifts). All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, 4 чотири (cho-TY-ry) 10 десять (DE-syat’) airports, railway terminals) should have designated smoking 5 п’ять (pyat’) 100 сто (sto) areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. 6 шість (shist’) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha)

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 10 Basics

Mail & Phones Tipping Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their Post bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaid- Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 38, www. so read the fine print or ask. ukrposhta.com. Kyiv’s main post office can’t be missed. The Poshtamt (поштамт) is on a corner of Maidan Visas Nezalezhnosti opposite the tall monument. A myriad of windows as well as colourful pictures of city landmarks Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, await in the main hall straight ahead. The less intimidating Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, hall to the right offers a wide selection of postcards and Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the hosts a 24-hour Internet café upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turk- 21:00. Sun 09:00 - 19:00. menistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travel- Express mail ling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices DHL Vasyl’kivs’ka 1, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. 490 26 00/258 25 00/258 17 66, www.dhl.com. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain ua. Express-centres: Business-centre “Kyiv-Donbass” days of the week, so call ahead. Pushkins’ka 42/4, 1st floor M L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the 44 490 26 00; Travel Company “SAM” Ivana Franka 40 exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must B, M Universytet tel. (+380) 44 238 69 85/238 69 51; obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid M Federal Express Kikvidze 44, Druzhby Narodiv, in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional tel. (+380) 44 495 20 20, fax (+380) 44 495 20 information, call (+380) 44 286 45 04. 39, www.fedex.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, An- Sat, Sun. dorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply TNT Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, MPetrivka, tel. for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private (+380) 44 207 07 70, fax (+380) 44 207 07 80, visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue 16:00. Closed Sun. A state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase UPS H-4, Mechnykova 20, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) national medical insurance, and must register their passports 44 280 00 00, fax (+380) 44 280 10 19, www.ups. with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 44 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Internet cafés Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaid- Central Post Office visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 51. QOpen airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors 24hrs. planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. Vault 13 Computer Club G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. 19, ML’va Tolstoho. Internet 09:00 - 23:00 3Hr/h, Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., 23:00 - 09:00 2Hr/h, Fri, Sat 3 Hr/h. Consultation 12Hr/h. Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American Printing, scanning. 60 PCs, intranet. QOpen 24hrs. countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call Using a telephone (+380) 44 234 00 40. Fixed line telephone Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number - last Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, 7 digits of the telephone numbers in our guide forego Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may by 44 - Kyiv city code. If the number is forego by other enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are al- numbers (i.e. 67, 97, 98, 50, 95 etc.) dial 0 and then full lowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must 9 digits number. To make a long-distance telephone apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380) code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 44 284 00 40, Hungarian (+380) 44 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380) 44 234 06 06. 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (44) and then For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone num- the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait bers see kyiv.inyourpocket.com. In many cases, the consular for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart code and number itself. from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by Roaming calling before you go. To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code.  The Kyiv telephone code is +380 44

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 11

What’s On

Everlast 18 December 2012 20:00 Crystal Hall (Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1) Everlast is back! For sure! In fact, after the June concert, he promised his fans that they will meet again soon, and Everlast is a man who keeps his promises. This time Everlast brings his acoustic programme to Kyiv. As he jokes about it: “My songs are born in acoustics, therefore an acoustic concert is an opportunity to hear my music in its original form.” Everlast is a singer-songwriter who moves fluidly between hip-hop, rock and country. Born as Erik Schrody in 1969 in Long Island, New Marilyn Manson York, Everlast started off as a protégé of Los Angeles hip-hop 20 December 2012 icon Ice-T. His career has evolved from being the frontman of 22:00 Palace of Sport (Sportyvna pl. 1) a celebrated but short-lived rap group of the early ‘90s to a Brian Hugh Warner (born 5 January, 1969), is better known confessional solo artist who feels as comfortable rapping as by his stage name Marilyn Manson. He is an American rock he does covering a Johnny Cash song. QTickets 350 - 900Hr. musician and former music journalist known for his contro- versial stage persona and image as the lead singer of the eponymous band Marilyn Manson. His stage name was formed from juxtaposing the names of two American cultural icons, namely actress Marilyn Monroe and the multiple mur- der convict Charles Manson as a critical and, simultaneously, laudatory appraisal of America and its peculiar culture. The seemingly outrageous visual and vocal styles he employs, his unique interpretations of familiar songs, and the contro- versy surrounding his lyrics and imagery have led to his very pronounced public appeal. QTickets 250 - 800Hr.

Strauss Festival Orchestra conducted by Peter Guth 19 December 2012 19:00 Palace Ukraine (Chervonoarmiyska 103) This festival features the most beautiful operetta and dance Bruno Pelletier melodies by Johann Strauss, Jr. Christmas Songs The SFO has had countless brilliant appearances at signifi- 25 December 2012 cant music festivals, sensational TV concerts, and tours in 19:00 Palace of Sport (Sportyvna pl.1) most European countries, America and Asia. With its CD Bruno Pelletier is a Quebec artist, but known on both sides of recordings it has become internationally synonymous with Atlantic. Bruno’s love for music began in the early childhood. its authentic interpretation of Viennese music and has a wide His father noticed this and presented Bruno with a guitar when repertoire from the classics to the Strauss Dynasty and the the boy was seven years old. Bruno began not only playing masters of Viennese operetta. the guitar and the drums, but also singing and composing his Peter Guth, the internationally renowned Johann Strauss own tunes. Since then he has performed in his own bands, specialist shares the musical direction with his younger col- went on to a rewarding sols career, and has performed in league Willy Büchler, concertmaster of the Vienna Symphony. various musicals, TV shows, and even Pepsi commercials. QTickets 80 - 1200Hr He became become popular in France after taking part in the musical “Notre Dame de Paris” for which he was proclaimed the “World Best Selling French Recording Artist” in 1999 & 2000. QTickets 250 - 1500Hr. Where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Karabas A-5, Metrograd mall (from Novyi Proizd), MLva Tolstoho, tel.(+380) 44 590 55 55, www. karabas.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Parter A-5, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), MMaid- an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 287 87 87, www.part- er.ua. Web-site available in English.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 12 Culture & Events Culture & Events

Art Arsenal Family Christmas at NSC Olimpiyskiy From 1 January 2013 Christmas is always a lot of smiles, hearty emotions and fairytale. NSC Olimpiyskiy invites to visit winter Christmas Park, which is going to be open on 1 January 2013. In the winter mid-season the territory of the sports complex will be hosting Ukrainian championship of northern dogs, ice sculpture championship, amazing excursions and a lot of other activities. Follow their web page to stay in touch with current events. Hebei Acrobatic Troupe 09-10 January 2013 12:00, 15:00 (Instytutska 1) Acrobats of Hebei are a “must see” production that combines Chinese traditions, incredible acrobatics, stunning costumes, Chinese props, and beautiful music. Ranging in Fifth Grand Antique Salon ages from 19-25 and trained from childhood in acrobatics 6-16 December 2012 they are marvels of what the human mind and body can ac- The Salon will present masterpieces of world and Ukrai- complish. Programmes created by the troupe include “Head nian art. On display will be unique historical rarities from Skills On a Free-Standing Ladder,” “Sacred-Jar juggling,” “Lion museum and gallery collections, A part of exhibition fea- Dance,” “Diablo Girls,” “Meteors,” “Foot Juggling,” “Belts tures the most complete exhibition of Victor Zaretsky’s Gymnastics,” “Rotating Hoop Diving,” “The Grand Acrobatics works, from 14 museums and 25 private collections. A Evening Show ‘Hometown,’” and more. QTickets 60 - 300Hr prominent representative of the 1960s dissident move- ment, a universal artist and aesthete, Victor Zaretsky (1925-1990) created his own style, despite the pressure of Socialist realism requirements. Some art critics called him ‘a Ukrainian Klimt’. A must see is the exposition of Short Blade Indian of the 17th to 19th centuries. It features fifty of the finest Indian daggers and knives from The Feldman Collection. Included are kataras, khanjars, khanjalis, (daggers) and other rare cold steel arms. Art Arsenal (Mystetskyi Arsenal) J-3, Lavr’ka 12- 14, MArsenalna, tel. (+380) 44 288 51 40, www.ar- tarsenal.in.ua. The biggest modern art project in Ukraine. The total area of the future cultural centre will be over 70 thousand square meters. One art gallery is already open, and the whole Kyiv “Arsenal” factory is under reconstruc- tion. It will be turned into the biggest museum complex in Mozart. Rock-Opera Ukraine. Ex-president Yuschenko’s goal is to turn this new 11-12 February 2013 cultural centre into the heart of the spiritual and historical 19:00 Ukraine Palace (Chervonoarmiyska 103) life of Ukraine. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Who is Mr Mozart? Leave all your old views. Wolfgang Ama- deus Mozart was the first rock musician in Europe. He was a rebel and virtuosic composer, a man of tragic fate. The French The Legend of Mulan rock-opera “Mozart” gives new insights on the real core of Cirque Phenix the greatest Austrian in Europe. The premiere took place in September 2009. Later it became the first musical filmed 27 December 2012 - 6 January 2013 in 3D and has been nominated for the Cristal Globe award. Palace of Sport (Sportyvna pl.1) QTickets 200 - 1750Hr. The Cirque Phénix brought together the best circus stars from for a show that transported us into the heart of medieval China during a stunning show. It is the story of Crazy Horse Hua Mulan. Legend has it that this young Chinese woman cut her hair and put on her father’s armour to prevent her sick 13 February 2013 19:00, and aged parent going to the front to push back the Huns. 14 February 2013 18:30; 21:00 This legend which hails from the 4th Century is portrayed 15 February 2013 21:00 by talented artists of the Beijing Circus. There are acrobats, 16 February 2013 16:00 Operetta Theatre jugglers, dancers and tightrope walkers, who have achieved The legendary cabaret Crazy Horse is the most visited world wide acclaim. Nearly 2 hours of powerful entertainment! cabaret in the world. It is just as recognized a symbol of QTickets 80 - 500Hr Paris as the Eifel Tower or Champs-Élysées is in Paris. Since its opening in 1951 Crazy Horse has been he most avant- garde of all the Paris cabarets. In the girls the owner of the Stay in touch with what’s happening cabaret, Alan Bernardi, values energy and charisma more than beauty. He has put striptease to the forefront of art has in Kyiv at our Facebook page mastered the art of lighting-having the girls actually “wears“ www.facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket light. QTickets 400 - 1200Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 13

Exhibitions Mystery of the Old Boards Until 31 December 2012 Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of Arts The exhibition represents masterpieces of European graphic arts from the collection of the Khanenko Museum of Arts. Among exhibits are rareworks of brilliant artists - Durer, Luke Leiden, Rembrandt. Kimono. Three centuries of Japanese Fashion Until 15 January 2013 Planetarium (Chervonoarmiyska 57/3) Unique outfits from private collections represent more than 300 years of the evolution of Japanese fashion and reveal the secrets of their legendary owners. Images of aristocrats, geishas, courtesans and actors will appear in prints and on scrolls that accompany a collection of kimonos. Rare wedding Art galleries & Exhibition Halls gowns, ceremonial kimonos, samurai costumes and even the imperial court costume of the Meiji period, which the movie Atelier Karas C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, MKontraktova “The Last Samurai” tells about, can be seen. Kimonos shown Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 238 65 31. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. in “Memoirs of a Geisha” will also be presented. For additional Brucie Collections G-2, Artema 55B, MLuk’yanivs’ka, information visit fashion-kimono.com or call 063 467 3718 tel. (+380) 44 353 12 34, www.bruciecollections.com. QAdmission 90Hr on weekends, 60Hr for students, pension- QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. . ers, 60Hr and 30Hr on weekdays. Collection H-3, Pankivs’ka 8, MUniversytet, tel. Two Weeks One Summer (+380) 44 287 37 66, www.collectiongallery.com. Damien Hirst solo exhibition ua/eng/exibitions/. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Until 6 January 2013 Gallery 36 C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 36, MKontraktova PinchukArtCentre (Chervonoarmiyska 1-3) Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 85, www.gallery36.org. Once again Damien Hirst brings his works to Kyiv. The exhibi- ua. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. tion presents a series of eleven dynamic new paintings he A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 32 (in the yard), has been working on since summer of 2010. You may either Gallery RA MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 36 19. QOpen like his works or not, but they never lest anyone indifferent. 11:00 - 19:00. Q Admission is free. Gapchinska C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezh- Old Fashioned Women’s Clothing nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 44 49, [email protected], www. Until 10 January 2013 gapart.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (Khreschatyk 2) This is your chance to view the unique private collection of Grifon C-4, Kostyol’na 6, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. classic female dresses and suits from 1800-1920, owned by (+380) 44 270 70 84. Paintings, sculptures, mini tapestries Kyiv collector Marina Ivanova. Her collection is almost a real and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. fashion salon of the 19th century. Sixty luxurious dresses Jakob Grether art-centre E-2, Vadyma Hetmana including dressing gowns, ball gowns, wedding dresses casual 6, Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, block A, 3-7 floor, dresses and suits, which were previously owned by European MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 60, www.greter- aristocrats. These original and perfectly preserved apparels art.com. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. were made solely for ladies from aristocracy and high society. M17 H-5, Gor’koho 102-104, MPalats Ukraina, tel. The Temperament of Cuba (+380) 44 596 20 30, [email protected], m17.com.ua/ Until 28 January 2013 en. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Jacob Grether art-centre (Vadyma Hetmana 6) Maysternya B-2, Artema 1-5, MZoloti Vorota, tel. The exhibition opened in late November and was organised (+380) 44 272 05 47. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. with support of the Embassy and Consulate of Cuba in Ukraine. The Temperament of Cuba is dedicated to Cuban art Mystets A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 12, ML’va Tolstoho, of the 20th-21st centuries and is considered to be a unique tel. (+380) 44 234 40 06, [email protected]. event in Ukrainian art-space history. The exposition includes QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. collection works by the best 16 Cuban artists together with PinchukArtCentre A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 1-3, Arena art pieces of world-famous Ukrainians. Q Admission is free. Complex, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 590 08 58, www..org/en. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Planetarium H-3, Chervonoarmiyska 57/3, MOlimpi- yska, tel. (+380) 44 287 75 08. Tryptych C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 34, MKontraktova Plos- cha, tel. (+380) 44 279 07 59, www.triptych-gallery. org. Contemporary decorative art. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Tsekh Gallery M-6, Frunze 69, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. (+380) 68 118 51 57/(+380) 44 591 13 69, www. zeh.com.ua. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Ukrainian House C-4, Khreschatyk 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 39. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 14 Culture & Events

Concert halls Opera & Ballet Crystal Hall (CH) J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArse- nalna, tel. (+380) 67 442 92 67/(+380) 44 288 50 69, www.crystalhall.com.ua.. National Philharmonic (NP) D-4, Volodymyrs‘kyi uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. Q Tickets 30-120Hr. October Palace (OP) C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 82. Palace of Sport (PS) A-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 72 53 (events department), www.spalace.com.ua. Stereo Plaza (SP) J-5, Kikvidze 17, MDruzhby Narodiv, December tel. (+380) 44 222 80 44, www.stereoplaza.com.ua. Sullivan Room (SP)B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. 7 P.Tchaikovsky Iolanta Opera (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. 8 Ludwig Van Symphony No.9 Concert Tchaikovsky Conservatory (TC) C-4, Horodets’koho Beethoven 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 07 92. 11 G.Bizet-R. Carmen-Suite Ballet Ukraine Palace (UP) H-4, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 103, Shchedrin MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 247 24 76. M.Rymskiy- Sheherazade Ballet Korsakov Culture centres 12 J.Strauss Vienna Valce Ballet British Council D-2, I-1, Skovorody 4/12, MKontraktova 13 G.Verdi La Traviatta Opera, in Italian Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 00, www.britishcouncil. org.ua. QOpen 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 14 M.Mussorgskiy Boris Godunov Opera French Cultural Centre G-2, O. Honchara 84, MU- niversytet, tel. (+380) 44 482 06 72/(+380) 44 482 15 M.Skoryk Moise Opera 23 71, www.ifu.com.ua. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Tue, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sat. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. H.Lovenskjold La Sylphide Ballet Goethe Institute D-2, I-1, Volos’ka 12/4, MKontrak- 16 P.Tchaikovsky Eugene Onegin Opera tova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 496 97 85, www.goethe. de/kiew. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. G.Bizet-R. Closed Sat, Sun. 18 Shchedrin Carmen-Suite Ballet M.Rymskiy- Italian Culture Institute B-2, H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 32B, Korsakov Sheherazade Ballet MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 270 62 23, fax (+380) 44 279 38 42, www.iickiev.esteri.it. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 20 G.Puccini Manon Leskaut Opera, in Italian 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Centre E-1, Dehtyarivs’ka 22 Concert of evening romance 25A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 99 00/(+380) 23 G.Verdi Aida Opera, in Italian 44 490 99 96, [email protected], www.arraid.org. Polish Institute A-3, H-2, B. Khmel’nytskoho 29/2, 25 G.Bizet-R. Carmen-Suite Ballet #17, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 288 03 04, www. Shchedrin polinst.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. M.Rymskiy- Korsakov Sheherazade Ballet Ukraine-Japan Centre F-2, Peremohy prosp. 37, MPolitekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. (+380) 44 406 81 66, 26 G.Puccini Turandot Opera, in Italian www.uajc.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. 27 G.Donizetti L'elisir d'amore Opera, in Italian Cinemas 28 New Year Eve Gala-Concert Butterfly Bilshovyk E-2, Het‘mana 6, Bilshovyk Shop- ping Mall, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 10, 29 New Year Eve Gala-Concert www.kino-butterfly.com.ua. Tickets 15 - 90Hr. Butterfly Deluxe H-4, Gor‘koho 50, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. 30 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet (+380) 44 206 13 20. Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. 31 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet Kinopalats C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 23, www.kinopalace.net. Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. Taras Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine A-4, Volodymyrs’ka 50, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) Kyiv A-5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 19, ML‘va Tolstoho, 44 234 71 65/(+380) 44 279 11 69, www.opera. tel. (+380) 44 234 73 81, www.kievkino.com.ua. com.ua. Home of the country’s most famous opera and Q Tickets 20 - 60Hr. ballet company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers. Multiplex IMAX O-5, Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 34B, Block- Performances are always outstanding and the humble Baster Shopping Mall, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 498 ticket prices (10-200Hr) make this the city’s best value in 48 32. Q Tickets 20 - 100Hr. entertainment. All performances start at 19:00. For some Odesa Kino G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, MUniversytet, events tickets are available online at www.opera.com.ua. tel. (+380) 44 496 15 11, www.kinoodessa.com. Q Tickets 17 - 50Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 15

Christmas in the capital stance can be explained by the fact that the country’s two top religions, the Ukrainian/Russian Orthodox Church and Catholic Church, have calendars that don’t quite jive - the Orthodox calendar lags a couple weeks behind the Catholic calendar. Kyiv offers those interested in more than just gift grub- bing the unique opportunity of getting to know these two religions’ holiday traditions. On December 24, head to St. Alexander’s Cathedral or St. Nicholai’s Cathedral for Catholic Christmas service Ukrainian style. On January 7, peek in on the service at any of nearby churches. All are welcome, and crowds can be quite large, though always merry. For ladies, tradition calls for a scarf to be worn while in the church. For those with Christmas spirit, but an allergy to church, we recommend heading to Pyrohovo Museum of Folk Architecture for the Christmas festival held on January 7. It’s always a delight for us at Kyiv In Your Pocket to Here you’ll find a programme rich in cultural traditions put out our holiday issue, as it gets us in the spirit for including wonderful food, crafts, art, music and dance. celebrating the world’s grandest holiday: Christmas! And The programme usually starts at 10:00 am. what’s the first question that westerners travelling to Kyiv Theatre and music lovers couldn’t have chosen a better ask around the holidays: Why do Ukrainian Christians time to visit Kyiv. The National Opera and Ballet Theatre celebrate Christmas twice? Was Christ born on two will feature showings of the Nutcracker. If you’re as tight different days? He is the “Son of God”, so we guess with your money as Mr. Scrooge, the price of tickets drops anything’s possible, but let’s leave that question up to after the holidays, so wait and save. The House of Organ the theologians. Music (St. Nicholas Cathedral) features nightly holiday The glorious thing about Ukrainians is that one day of concerts, we recommend the Christmas Night concert celebration is never enough, and all those who have been that usually takes place January 7. to our beautiful city for this wonderful holiday know that Unfortunately, we didn’t receive the schedule for concerts the party is always multiplied by two (though unofficially). in January before going to print. For updates, check out However, Christmas being held on two days goes beyond the Events section on our website or join us on Facebook just scarfing down delicious dishes and toasts of kagor (search Kyiv In Your Pocket), where you’ll be sure to get (a traditional sweet red wine). In fact, this merry happen- all the latest on cultural events in Kyiv.

While there are numbers of different New Year and Christmas shows for children, Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre invites the little ones to this magic building on the hill above Yevropeyska ploscha (Europeal Square). (www.akadempuppet.kiev.ua) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 16 MOSCOW Where to stay

This winter why not go that one step further and cross the border into the world’s biggest country? Whether you hop The Kremlin over to enjoy the history, culture and electric buzz of the Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin capital Moscow or venture north to enjoy the beauty and nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, romance of Peter the Great’s stunning city on the the water ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov St. Petersburg, this is a country which will leave you with long imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much lasting memories. is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower. Those with extra money to burn might want to take a look at the imperial jewels in the Kremlin Armoury. Note that tickets for the armoury are pricey and can only be bought at the ticket desk outside the Kremlin walls.

The Kremlin C-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathe- dral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,000-2,500Rbl + admission. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. Russian Art For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, begin- ambitious from across the country and further afield. In ning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabit- the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s ants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collec- of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to tion which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages. experience not to be missed. Tretyakov Gallery C-3, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretya- kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgal- lery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission Red Square 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-4, Krymsky Val Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU of and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral Novodevichy monastery topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other Monastery or convent, this place which dates back to the end you will find the State History museum which details 16th Century, occupies a very specific place in Russian history the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will and is probably the most visually striking of Moscow’s many delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades monasteries. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice with an impressive icon collection. It is also worth looking at rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the fascinating nearby cemetery while you are here. Many of the magnificent view. Russia and the ’s most celebrated personalities are buried here in grand style including; Yeltsin, Chekhov, Gogol, GUM С-2, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 Bulgakov, Mayakovsky, Prokofiev and Khrushchev. Make sure to 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. brush up on your Cyrillic alphabet if you intend to find them all. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, Novodevichy Cemetery Luzhnetsky proezd 2, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. Q Open 10:00 - 50-250Rbl. 17:30. Admission free. State History Museum C-2, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon of the month. 60-440Rbl. Admission 100-150Rbl. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where MOSCOWto stay 17

Hotels Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevs- kaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKur- skaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www. ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya- Yamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMaya- kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. hhhh Getting to Moscow By Plane Winter wonderland There are around 30 flights a day between Kyiv and Moscow Moscow is a magical winter wonderland in December and and the journey takes around one hour 20 minutes. Aerosvit January when the city pumps money into making its public and Aeroflot both fly between Borospil and Sheremyetevo spaces inviting, fun and festive places for all the family. One airports. S7, MAY and Ukrainian Airlines fly between Borospil of the most popular parks is the happening Gorky Park which and Domodedevo airports and Transaero flies from Zhulyany has undergone a complete makeover in recent years. In the Airport to Domodedevo. Aeroexpresss trains run between winter Gorky Park features; a huge outdoor skating area Moscow Sheremyetevo and Domodedevo airports and the city illuminated by thousands of colourful fairy lights, a festive centre getting you into town comfortably in just 35 - 45 minutes. market where you can buy fancy retro-chic souvenirs and numerous cosy chalet cafes and restaurants for resting up By Train with some mulled wine. For energetic winter sports fans the There are 18 trains a day travelling between Kyiv and Mos- enormous Sokolniki park (reputedly the largest in Europe) cow to choose from leaving both during the day and travel- also boasts a huge open air ice rink as well as a 40 metre ling overnight. The journey takes between 9 and 14 hours high and 200 metre long ice slide, an ice sculpture park and depending on which train you take. Trains arrive and depart various good value cafes. from Moscow’s Kievsky station. Gorky Park B-4, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, Russia In Your Pocket tel. (+7) 499 237 12 66, www.park-gorkogo.com. Q Open 24hrs. Free wifi available throughout the park. En- This feature is only a brief guide to two of Russia’s most trance is free. famous cities. Full pdf versions of both the Moscow In Sokolniki Ul. Sokolnichesky val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, Your Pocket and St. Petersburg In Your Pocket guides tel. (+7) 499 268 60 11, www.park-sokolniki.ru. Q Open can be downloaded for free from russia.inyourpocket. 24hrs. Entrance is free. com. At this website you can also explore thousands of independently written reviews to all there is to see and do Soviet sightseeing in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other Russian destinations such as Kazan and the Golden Ring. You can also find us on As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the facebook at www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket. world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such as the iconic ‘seven sisters’ skyscrapers which are dotted around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For Russian Visas a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Rus- To apply for a Russian tourist visa (maximum 30 days sian Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), single entry) you will need an ‘invitation’ (priglasheniye) where giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments from a tourist company in Russia. These can easily be to workers and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss ordered through online companies such as yourvisato- out on a visit to the nearby Cosmonautics museum which russia.com or with the help of the hotel or hostel you boasts such historic memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies wish to stay in. A printed email copy should suffice to of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, along with the support your application. The cost of the visa can vary pods they flew to space in. wildly depending on which country you come from as All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, can the processing time so it is worth checking with the MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. embassy before starting the process. Alternatively you Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions may decide to pay a local travel agency to organise your 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions documentation and paperwork for you, such as Sonata from 0 - 500Rbl. travel agency; office. 4, ul. Dmytrivska 19a, Kyiv, tel. +38 Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, (044) 502 15 14, en.sonata.org.ua. tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Russian Embassy (consular section), Kyiv, ul. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Kutuzova 8, tel. (+38) 044 284 68 16, embrus.org.ua Admission 200 - 350Rbl. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 kyiv.inyourpocket.com December 2012 - January 2013 18 ST. PETERSBURG

Blockade History During World War II when the city was known as Leningrad its people suffered the worst siege in modern history. In the Leningrad Blockade Museum you can learn about how the blokadniki struggled against the desperate cold and starvation while at the Rumyantsev house you can see the original heart-breaking diary of the young siege victim Tanya Savicheva. At the Piskaryevskoye cemetery you can pay your respects to the millions who died as a result of the siege, 489,000 of whom are buried here.

Blockade Museum D-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MCherny- shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 75 47, blokadamus.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed and last Thu of the month. Admission 100-200Rbl. Closed every last thursday of the month. Piskaryevskoye Memorial Cemetery Pr. Nepokore- nnykh 72, MPl. Muzhestva, tel. (+7) 812 297 57 16, pmemorial.ru. Q Cemetery open 09:00 - 21:00. Museum open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. GETTING THERE: from Pl. Muzhestva metro take marshrutka or bus 138, 123; Peter the Great’s ‘Window on the West’ is rightly famed as from Akademicheskaya metro take marshrutka 178 . Get one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. Filled with world class off at Piskarevka. museums, stunning waterside panoramas, beautiful neo- Rumyantsev Mansion C-2, Angliskaya nab. 44, MSa- classical architecture and brimming with history and culture, dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 44, www.spbmuseum.ru. the great ‘Venice of the North’ never fails to impress. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Closed every last tuesday. Admission 60-110Rbl. The State Hermitage Museum With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five Dostoevsky’s city connected buildings along the Neva river, the Hermitage is quite It is said that when researching his books Dostoevsky simply one of the greatest museums in the world. Give yourself “would roam down the darkest and most remote streets plenty of time to take it all in as you wind your way through the of Petersburg". In the depths of winter much of the area opulent state rooms of the Winter Palace. The museum's vast around the Sennaya Ploschad and Vladimirskaya metro sta- art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. tions - where much of the action in Crime and Punishment is Lovers of the renaissance shouldn't miss the Da Vincis, Canalet- set - are intensely atmospheric and at moments reminiscent tos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The of times long since passed. If it is too cold for setting off in Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another Dostoevsky’s footsteps then make sure to visit the very must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like insightful Dostoevsky Museum instead which is based in Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse and the gang are all up on the the flat where he reportedly penned the Brothers Karamazov. top floor while the ‘small Hermitage’ wing contains a priceless collection of Greek, Roman, Persian and Egyptian artefacts. F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum D-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) Hermitage C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. The Imperial suburbs The suburbs of St. Petersburg are scattered with many grand Ballet and Opera palaces built by the Romanov Tsars as summer retreats. One St. Petersburg has a very strong ballet and opera tradition of the most famous is the Catherine Palace in Pushkin built and is home to one of the world’s most celebrated theatres, at the behest of Catherine the Great. Surrounded by beauti- the Mariinsky Theatre, headed by superstar maestro ful gardens, the highlight of the grand palace is the glittering Valery Gergiev. If you can’t get a ticket for the Mariinsky then amber room. Built in the 1700s it was destroyed during World head instead for one of the performances at the highly re- War II and has been faithfully restored back to its original spected Mikhailovsky Theatre. From December 14 - 25, the splendour by German and Russian experts. Mikhailovsky Theatre, along with the nearby St. Petersburg Philharmonic, hosts the Art’s Square Winter Festival which Pushkin/Tsarskoe Selo – Catherine Palace boasts numerous stars of the classical world on its playbill. Catherine's Palace open 10:00 - 17:00 (for individuals 12:00 - Mariinsky Theatre B-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya 14:00, 16:00 - 17:00). Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Q Catherine Park open 07:00 - 21:00. From Vitebsky station, Admission 300-6,000Rbl. take a local train to Detskoe Selo station (journey time approx Mikhailovsky Theatre D-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky 30mins), from there you can walk to Catherine's palace (20 pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Q mins) or take bus N371 or N382. Ticket office: daily 11:00 - 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00. Grand Philharmonic Hall D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philhar- st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com monia.spb.ru. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com ST. PETERSBURG 19

Hotels Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab.kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Ligov- sky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh IBIS St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. hhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ul. Mayakovsk- ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. hhhh Radisson Sonya Hotel D-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher- nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson. Photo by Sveta Veselovskaya ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. hhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, Getting to St. Petersburg MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. By Plane sokoshotels.com. hhhhh Aerosvit and Rossiya airlines fly directly from Kyiv’s Borispol airport twice a day to St. Petersburg Pulkovo airport while Aeroflot also has one daily direct flight. Journey time is Legendary Nightlife around two hours. St. Petersburg nightlife is legendary throughout the country and thrives with a myriad of friendly underground bars, atmo- By Train spheric jazz clubs, cosy Irish pubs and classy cocktail bars. There is one direct train a day from Kyiv to St. Petersburg Those looking to taste the chaos of the grungy underground leaving at 16:00 and arriving the next day at 13:41 at St. Pe- bar scene should head to Dumskaya ulitsa (metro Nevsky tersburg’s Vitebsky station. Returning to Kyiv the train departs pr.), whilst milder and more mature entertainment can be St. Petersburg at 09:12 and arrives in Kyiv the following day at found at the smart venues around Konyushennaya ploschad 10:46. Alternatively you can take one of the many trains from or the more laidback ulitsa Rubinsteina. For live music - and Kyiv to Moscow and then travel onwards to St. Petersburg via especially jazz - The Hat Bar, run by the popular local group the night trains or the four hour Sapsan express trains, all of Billy’s Band, is a must. which leave from Moscow’s Leningradsky station.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 kyiv.inyourpocket.com December 2012 - January 2013 20 Where to stay Where to stay

Cream of the Crop Symbol key Alfavito H-4, Predslavyns’ka 35D, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 220 45 75, fax (+380) 44 220 45 76, info@ P Air-conditioning L Guarded parking alfavito.com.ua, www.alfavito.com.ua/en/index.htm. 6 Animal friendly R Internet This lovely 4-star hotel has a classic/modern design and is located just a 2 minute walk from Palats Ukraina. All 270 rooms T Child friendly M Nearest metro station are ideal for business people: telephone, free Wi-Fi Internet H Conference facilities G Non-smoking rooms access, safe, minibar, interactive TV, climate control system. There are rooms for allergy sufferers and the disabled, and A Credit cards accepted K Restaurant all staff have an excellent command of English. Rooms run J City centre location D Sauna from €167 per night. There are several seminar & conference rooms and a complete range of business services are avail- F Fitness centre C Swimming pool able. A unique feature is their “Café Forte” which is not just U Facilities for the disabled W Wi-Fi internet access a spacious & comfortable lounge, but an art gallery as well. Exhibits are constantly changing and the beautiful works may be purchased. There is also a piano bar where meals can be Boutique Hotel Riviera D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, taken as well as the very elegant dining room. The menu is in MPoshtova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, fax English and the cuisine is European & Ukrainian with an average (+380) 44 581 38 38, [email protected], www. meal costing 300Hr. Restaurant open 11:00-23:00. Q270 rivierahotel.com.ua. Riviera hotel is located in the histori- rooms (9 singles €167, 231 doubles €187, 19 superiors €247, cal part of Kyiv - in Podil. Such a suitable location makes it 4 business €247, 4 deluxe €427, 2 suites €1975, 1 apartment easy to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the €2895, additional bed €50). PHAULKW hhhh city such as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka Squares and Khreschatyk street. Through the windows of your room you can enjoy the view of the Dnipro River and his- Door smarts torical Podil. Each room includes controlled air-conditioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality service and an individual A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing approach to each guest makes Hotel Riviera attractive to moments in front of a foreign door. business travellers and tourists alike. On the 7th floor of Pull На себе На себя the hotel, Cote d`Azur restaurant has a splendid view of Push Від себе От себя the old town Podol and the river. Q79 rooms (comfort Open Відчинено Открыто €180 - 220, business €195 - 240, junior suite €230 - 290, Closed Зачинено Закрыто executive suite €280 - 350, deluxe €230 - 420, presidental suite €800 - 1000). PHARUFGKDW hhhh

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay Where to stay 21

Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv D-3, Naberezhno-Khresh- Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, MMaidan chatytska 1, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 322 Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44 88 88, fax (+380) 44 322 88 99, [email protected], 581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency www.fairmont.com/kyiv. A great Luxury hotel right on Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka the river Dnipro. Seldom have we been more impressed by Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and a hotel’s elegance. Marble floors, stained glass windows, leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and lovely chandeliers, and a stunning classic design and it goes ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and on. Each of the 258 rooms is fully equipped and beautifully 25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global designed with large comfy beds. There are also Presidential business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor & Royal Suites for all you presidents, kings and queens. There heating, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers are discounted rates for weekends and package offers are create a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting available. The entire staff is friendly & great in English. Their and banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function restaurant The Strand Grill is open to the public daily from space accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large- 06:30 - midnight. For a cup of tea or coffee with some des- scale events. Q234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, deluxe sert, there is nothing like The Atrium Lounge & Pâtisserie €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, regency suite €578 - 835). with its awesome stained glass ceiling and classic décor. PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Breakfast is not included and costs €35. Q258 rooms (202 Intercontinental C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 2A, Fairmont rooms, 52 suites, 1 Presidential Suite, 1 Royal Suite). MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 219 19 19, www. PZTHAUFLGKDwW hhhhh intercontinental.com/kiev. Intercontinental’s location near Holiday Inn Kiev H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 100, Mykhailivs’ka ploscha (square) offers tourists and business MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 363 30 00, fax (+380) travellers access to the best Kyiv has to offer. Rooms range 44 363 30 03, [email protected], www.holiday- from stylish to elegant and come equipped with all imaginable inn.com/Kiev. Holiday Inn has found its place in our city amenities. Notable hotel facilities and services include a fit- on a quite lane locked between two business streets. It ness centre, swimming pool, spa, business centre and travel features all your Holiday Inn favourites including the usual services. The available dining and entertainment options are agreeable 208 rooms. Facilities include business centre, hard to top. Coffee and dessert in the Lobby Lounge or pop conference room, restaurant and bar with terrace, fitness into the Lobby Bar for a cigar and cocktails. Located on the area on 11th floor with panoramic view. Wi-Fi is free all over 11th floor, the b-Hush Rooftop Caviar Bar is open for dinner the hotel. In the best of HI traditions, the hotel is perfect and offers an impressive selection of exclusive dishes and an for business travellers and you know exactly what you are unforgettable view of the city centre. Brimming with tasty Italian going to get for your money. Q 208 rooms (180 Standards and Mediterranean cuisine, Olivera is your laidback dining op- €150, 26 Executives €175, 2 Suites €225). PHAU� tion, and Comme Il Faut is an elegant French restaurant offering FLGKW hhhh the finest in Parisian inspired cuisine. Q273 rooms (standart €350 - 388, deluxe €380 - 488, €389 - 535, club executive €640 - 678, suite €840 - 1038). hhhhh kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 22 Where to stay Where to stay

Premier Palace A-5, H-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v./ Press Box Pushkins’ka 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 244 12 01/(+380) 44 244 12 11, fax (+380) 44 279 87 72, “Solid, reliable information on everything from [email protected], www.premier-palace.com. where to book a reasonable B&B to how best Kyiv’s first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. to spend 72 hours in a city.” Each room has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, The Guardian along with a telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous fitness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: to guests from 07:00 to 23:00. Q289 rooms (142 Classic just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.” Rooms €325 - 395, 115 Premier Rooms €425, 29 Suite €495 Simon Calder - 625, 3 Apartment €1200 - 3500). POHARUFL� The Independent & LBC Radio GKDCW hhhhh “Most of the traditional guidebook companies Radisson BLU B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. now have decent websites, with plenty of advi- (+380) 44 492 22 00, fax (+380) 44 492 22 10, reserva- ce and information either freely available or [email protected], www.radissonblu.com.ua/ hotel-kiev. Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson SAS Kyiv is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on offers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the both well-known and more offbeat European clock, and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy con- destinations, its free downloadable city and cierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished in three country guides are compiled by locals and different styles, include plenty of satellite TV channels, in-house regularly updated.” movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, safe and hairdryer. The Independent Business class rooms and suites are more spacious and include a few extra perks like buffet breakfast and daily newspapers. “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is The hotel is well geared-up for events, with its state-of-the that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they art conference facilities available for meetings or banquets. are written by native English speakers living in Q255 rooms (183 Standard €202 - 293, 49 Business class the city they are writing about. That can lend €252 - 343, Junior Suite €303 - 394, Suite €626, 1 Presidental itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your €1111). Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room. PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhh destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” new The Irish Times Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil D-2, Bratska 17-19, MKon- traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 393 13 73, fax (+380) 44 393 13 77, [email protected], www. radissonblu.ru/hotel-kyiv-podil. A new entry in the old city Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, MUniversytet, tel./ for this famous hotel chain. 164 top class rooms ranging from fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, reservations@opera-hotel. 1,860Hr per night for a standard to 5,469Hr for a suite. If you are com, www.opera-hotel.com. The Opera Hotel is a luxury a president - you have your own apartment for just over 10,000. boutique hotel which offers something unique for its guests. The hotel was designed with the disabled in mind. There is a Staying in the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite gym and convenient underground parking. The Starokyivsky interior design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of Restaurant & Lounge has gorgeous marble furnishing and a clas- exquisite wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right sic, elegant interior, creating an ideal dining atmosphere. The at home, although home may be oceans away. The Opera chef treats guests to delicious international and Ukrainian main Hotel is located just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and courses, pastries and deluxe desserts. The wine list has an wide Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s selection of international and local wines. There is seating for 70 business and social life, but away from the busy downtown and an average meal will run around 400Hr. There is a business area. Business club, lobby lounge, conference rooms and spa lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00 from 97Hr. There is also the and fitness club are all a part of the luxury facilities offered Lobby Lounge & Bar with soft, comfortable sofas & one may to guests. Q136 rooms (classic 1900 - 2800Hr, standard order food from the restaurant. Open 11:00-01:00. The Cafe 2200 - 3400Hr, superior 2800 - 4000Hr, junior suite 4600 17 is a nice bright coffee shop with a street entrance. Q164 - 5800Hr, executive suite 7000 - 8200Hr). POARU� rooms (138 standards , 2 for disables , 15 business rooms , 5 FLGKD hhhhh suites , 1 presidential ). PiHAFLGKDWhhhh Podol Plaza D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 7A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 503 92 92/(+380) 44 503 Upmarket 92 03, fax (+380) 44 503 92 20, reservation@podol- 11 Mirrors Design Hotel A-3, Bohdana Khmelnyts- plazahotel.com.ua, www.podolplazahotel.com.ua/en. koho 34A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 11 11, This four-star boutique hotel creates a distinctive charm of [email protected], www.11mirrors-hotel.com. elegance and antique style in the historical centre of Kyiv. Either we did not noticed it before or it was covered with a Located just a few steps from the city’s best museums and green fence, but the building of this design hotel popped-up most spectacular Orthodox cathedrals, it has all the ad- suddenly in the very heart of the city centre, enclosed by vantages of a larger establishment, yet exudes the warmth, embassies, theatres, and churches. The rooms are big in intimacy and attention to detail that only a privately-owned a modern but incredibly spacious style with bathrooms de- hotel can. The hotel’s Gallery Restaurant combines traditional signed as transparent glass cubes (highly recommended for cuisine with new flavours and is equally appropriate for both couples are staying there!). The windows overlook one of our business lunches and dinners. The bar is a perfect place to favourite streets - Bohdana Khmelnytskoho. The amenities numb your senses after a hectic day. Q57 rooms (singles include the usual list found in upmarket hotels. Q49 rooms 1400 - 1600Hr, doubles 1600 - 1840Hr, junior suite 2320 - (19 doubles €275, 10 junior suites €300, 20 suites €335). 2720Hr, suites 2320 - 4480Hr). PHALKW hhhh PiAULGKW Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 23

Bakkara Art-hotel K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near the Metro Bridge), MHydropark, tel. (+380) 44 369 31 31, www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely a fine addition to Kyiv hotel scene. The hotel offers charm and class with prices that make sense. The rooms are fashionably decorated and comfortable. Room amenities include air conditioning, electronic security system, TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe, hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with direct international access and striking views of the Dnipro River and picturesque right bank. Every morning from 7:00 until 11:00 am everyone may enjoy buffet breakfast in the restaurant. The conference room can accommodate up to 80 persons and comes fully equipped. Q200 rooms (Standard 790Hr, Classic 930 - 1030Hr, Deluxe 1500 - 1650Hr, Luxe 2500 - 2800Hr). PHALKW

new City Hotel A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 56a, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 393 59 00, [email protected], www. cityhotel.kiev.ua. A lovely new hotel opened in time for the 2012 Football Championships. There are 87 beautifully decorated rooms ranging from 1794Hr for a standard double room to 3192Hr for a suite. A buffet breakfast is available for 200Hr. There are oodles of special offers; if one stays 2 nights or more the breakfast is just 1Euro. Friday - Sunday there is a 15% discount, and at the New Year there are 3 nights for the price of 2. There is a quaint little bar open 24hours. The Maltisse Restaurant is located on the 15th floor and offers a stunning view of the city. It has a modern-cream design and offers European cuisine. An average meal will run around 500Hr with extra for alcoholic drinks. Breakfast is served from 08:00-11:00 and the restaurant closes at 23:00. Q87 rooms (1 single 1104Hr, 74 doubles 1794Hr, 5 superiors 2292Hr, 7 junior suites 3192Hr). PiHAFLGKW City Park Hotel A-2, Vorovskoho 20A, tel. (+380) 44 451 87 01/(+380) 44 503 77 90, fax (+380) 44 451 87 27, [email protected], www.cityparkhotel. com.ua. This is a new boutique hotel located in the cultural, historical business part of Kyiv, and has been recognized as one of the best European style hotels in Ukraine. This quaint hotel has 23 rooms fully equipped, with a modern, bright design. Rooms cost from €145 per night with breakfast in- cluded. There is fax, photo copy, and a full range of business services available on request and conference rooms are available. The staff is warm & friendly and fluent in English. There is also a massage service available for guests. There is no restaurant but the Café Bar is great with a limited menu at moderate prices. Café open 07:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. Q23 rooms (standards €145 - 175, suites €225 - 240). PiJALGW hhhh Cosmopolite E-2, Vadyma Het’mana 6, letters A, А’, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 205 35 20, fax (+380) 44 205 35 21, [email protected], www. cosmopolite-kiev.com. The new business hotel is built in Constructivism style, which suites to the surrounding area and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall nearby. But except of bright avant-garde façade, the hotel has truly impressive interior. Each of the hotel’s five floors is designed in a style dedicated to one of the prominent artists of Constructivism and holds a small museum room of each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t central, however staying there you’ll be within easy access to all major business and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes ride by Peremohy prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped with working area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business visitors there is a business centre and business areas on each floor. The hotel’s restaurant offers German cuisine. Q160 rooms (143 Standard 1761Hr, 7 Junior suite 2282Hr, 10 Suite 2699Hr). PZiHAUFLGKW kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 24 Where to stay Where to stay

Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, President Hotel A-6, Hospytal’na 12, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) 44 254 67 65, tel. (+380) 44 256 32 56/(+380) 44 256 38 56, fax [email protected], www.dniprohotel.ua/en. (+380) 44 256 32 53, [email protected], One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey presidenthotel.com.ua/en. The President’s surroundings hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, political are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to centre. and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms are The hotel has 372 bedrooms of varying comfort and size recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spectacular (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a business centre, view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have air-conditioning, inter- restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, underground net, satellite TV and individually controlled central heating. parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This is a Q186 rooms (87 singles €73 - 99, 51 doubles €89 - 155, popular venue for all sorts of events, and its conference 7 junior suites €160 - 180, 41 suites €165 - 240). PO� suite has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 HARFLGKDCW hhhh people. Q322 rooms (Standard €72 - 115, Executive €192 - 240, Junior suite €224 - 280, Suite €272 - 340, Apartment ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard G-2, T. Shevchenka €480 - 600). POHARFLGKDCW hhhh bul’v. 25, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22, fax (+380) 44 591 22 33, [email protected], www. Ramada Encore Kiev Stolychne Shose 103, MVydu- ibishotel.com. This beautiful new hotel is one of the best bychi, tel. (+380) 44 205 15 15, fax (+380) 44 205 15 we have seen come along in awhile. The décor is a unique 16, [email protected], www.ramadaencorekiev. quasi art-deco-modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently com. Though Ramada Encore is located a bit far from the priced restaurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a 24 city centre, it takes only about 20 minutes to get to the city hour bar. All rooms are fully equipped and range from 790Hr centre by a shuttle bus (stops at Yevropeyska Square), which for a double to 2850Hr for a suite with a conference area, bar, is free and goes according to schedule. There is also a free and king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful and English shuttle bus from Boryspil airport. For guests arriving to Kyiv speaking. Breakfast 120Hr. Q212 rooms (113 doubles 790 Airport transfer will be also organised. Ramada Encore is a - 1090Hr, 72 Twin 790 - 1090Hr, 1 Suite 2850Hr, 5 rooms completely new 20-story building, housing 264 hotel rooms for disable 790 - 1090Hr, 21 Family Room 1170 - 1400Hr). and 58 long stay apartments. All of them are done up in bright PZA6UGKW hhh colours with a modern style. The rooms are equipped with wooden floors, large windows and fabulous bathrooms. The M G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) conference centre (1,200 sq.m) is located on the 1st and 2nd 44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44 floors. The hotel’s Lobby bar and La Moda Italian restaurant 236 63 36, [email protected], www.hotel- with a 180 people capacity are located on the 1st floor, while lybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s two gyms are located on 3rd and 18th floors. Breakfast is founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. not included in the price. Q322 rooms (257 standards €125 All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture - 135, 7 superiors €145 - 155, 20 studios €170, 38 apart- plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. ments €240 - 335). PZHAUFLGKW hhh Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central 256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by 40 05, [email protected], www.hotelrus. public transport. Q273 rooms (159 singles 930 - 1070Hr, 82 kiev.ua. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the doubles 930 - 1070Hr, 3 Junior suite 1217 - 1467Hr, 27 Suite rooms on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering 1627 - 1877Hr, 1 Business suite 2144 - 2394Hr, 1 Exclusive superb views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary suite 2488 - 2739Hr). PTHARULGKW hhh depending on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart M Natsional’nyi C-6, Lyps’ka 5, Khreschatyk, tel. and well furnished however. There is also a business centre (+380) 44 255 88 88, fax (+380) 44 255 89 97, ho- and three conference halls are at your disposal. Prices are [email protected], www.natsionalny.kiev.ua. An cheaper at the weekends, and there are discounts for long exorbitantly-priced hotel situated in the prestigious Pechersk stays. Q450 rooms (Standard 900 - 1290Hr, Business neighbourhood. It has hosted Helmut Kohl, Jacques Chirac class 1270 - 1390Hr, Suite 1770 - 4000Hr). PHAR� and a number of other world leaders. The hotel was recently LGKW hhh fully renovated to satisfy the modern traveller’s demand for contemporary interiors and conveniences. Friendly staff will Staro D-1, Kostyantynivs’ka 34B, MKontraktova book tickets for shows and theatre, and deliver room service ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 481 33 00, fax (+380) 44 417 at all hours of day or night. Q75 rooms (40 singles 1703Hr, 26 16, [email protected], www.staro.com.ua. Staro is 20 junior suites 2006Hr, 12 suites 2510Hr, 3 apartments located in a quiet part of Podil district. The exterior of the 3506Hr, extra bed 205Hr). PHARLKW hhhh hotel represents a kind of Art-nouveau style with 35 spacious and cosy rooms in a classical style. Each room is equipped M Park Hotel Golosievo Holosiivskyi prosp. 87, Holosi- with all the amenities of 4 star hotels including free Wi-Fi, ivska, tel. (+380) 44 219 11 55, fax (+380) 44 219 11 41, safe, a set of mini-perfumes, a hairdryer and bathrobes. [email protected], www.hotelgolosievo. Located out of main business areas Staro is an ideal place com.ua. Recently built in one of the most beautiful Kyiv parks, for tourists to explore the city. Andrew’s descent as well as Park Hotel Golosievo is recommended for business travellers. the nearby Kontraktova ploscha metro station is 10 minute The hotel is located in 5 min walk from Holosiivska metro sta- walking distance and the museum is also nearby. tion and it takes less than 15 minutes to reach the city centre. Q35 rooms (26 doubles €215, 5 Twins €215, 4 Junior suites All room are decorated in warm colours and equipped with all €320, extra bed €50). PZiHAULGKW hhhh facilities expected in 4-stars hotel. The Beer Garden restaurant with Bavarian cuisine is an excellent addition to the hotel. A chil- dren playground outside the hotel is a nice place for kids. Q53 rooms (5 singles 850Hr, 5 doubles 1150Hr, 10 triples 1500Hr, €1 = 10.36Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.79Hr 20 suites 1800Hr, 8 apartments 2300Hr, 4 King Deluxe 2800Hr, (29 November 2012 official rates) 1 President Suite 3800Hr). PiTALGKW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 25

Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka Khreschatik C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh- 60, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00, nosti, tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 596 80 fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, [email protected], www. 01, [email protected], www.khreschatik.kiev. vozdvyzhensky.com. This is one of the most elegant and ua/en. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location, in the location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquil- the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient lity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces conference rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded desk, guarded parking and Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed by the surrounding green hills that provide a breathtaking in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great value. Q130 rooms panoramic view. All 24 rooms, including the two deluxe suites (singles 765 - 850Hr, doubles 882 - 980Hr, suites 1125 - and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, “Club” and 2200Hr). PHALW hhh “Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV and Internet Kozats’kiy C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 1/3, MMaidan Nezalezh- access. The conference hall accommodates up to 100. There nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 49 25, fax (+380) 44 279 27 is a smaller hall for private meetings. Q25 rooms (9 singles 09, [email protected], www.kozatskiy. €100 - 142, 12 doubles €130 - 155, 4 suites €209 - 280). PHARLBKW hhhh kiev.ua. Kozats’kyi is located in the heart of the Ukrainian capital on Independence Square - the cultural and trade centre of Kyiv. An ideal location for both business and tour- Mid-range ism, access to the city’s extended transportation network, proximity to world renowned sites and reasonable prices J-4, Leipzigska 16, tel. (+380) 44 364 10 Black Sea give this venue a remarkable competitive advantage. Q130 64, fax (+380) 44 364 10 60, [email protected], rooms (57 singles 646Hr, 34 doubles 739 - 875Hr, 29 Junior www.bs-hotel.com.ua. Opened mid 2012 just outside the suite 1199 - 1309Hr, 10 Suite 1368 - 1478Hr). HAK hh centre, the Black Sea is part of a hotel chain from Odesa. Oc- cupied on the ground floor of a large apartment complex there Kyiv D-6, M.Hrushevs’koho 26/1, MArsenal’na, tel. are 31 comfortable all equipped rooms. The price ranges (+380) 44 253 01 55, fax (+380) 44 253 64 32, reserva- from 480Hr per room a night for standard room to 900Hr [email protected], www.htl.kiev.ua. This hotel is located for a suite. A great buffet breakfast is available for an extra in the heart of Kyiv’s political district, and the majority of the 80Hr. There is an adjoining restaurant which has a white-bright guests are members of the Ukrainian Parliament. There are design. There is seating for 150 and English is a challenge spectacular views of the Mariinsky Palace, Rada building and here. The cuisine is European with an average meal costing the park. The Kyiv offers all an MP could need: restaurants, a 350Hr. Weddings, banquets, & special occasions can be held currency exchange, ATMs, a beauty salon and room service. here. Q31 rooms (doubles 480 - 600Hr, senior 640 - 660Hr, Prices include breakfast. Q169 rooms (Standard 720 - 960Hr, superior 900Hr). PiHALGKW Junior suite 1500Hr). HAFLGK hhh kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 26 Where to stay Where to stay

Salyut (Salute) J-3, Ivana Mazepy 11B, MArsenal’na, Apartment hotels tel. (+380) 44 494 14 20, fax (+380) 44 280 61 30, [email protected], www.salutehotel.kiev.ua. This Greguar Apartments H-4, Chervonoarmiyska circular structure looks as if it’s about to leave its pod above 67/7, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 90, fax the Dnipro River and spin off into space. Great views of the (+380) 44 498 9791, [email protected], www. golden cupolas of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra are afforded from greguar.com.ua. This apartment hotel located in the Salyut’s elegant rooms, which contain satellite TV, refrigerator very centre of Kyiv business area. All 45 executive apart- and hairdryer. All rooms have double beds, so couples and ments are cosy and comfortable, equipped with kitchen, very close friends should have no space problems - which Wi-Fi and all amenities expected to be in the hotel. A is more than we can say for the building! Breakfast is not fine French patisserie on the premises. Q45 rooms included (150Hr). Q90 rooms (10 singles 700Hr, 49 dou- (15 singles 130US$, 24 doubles 165US$, 3 junior suite bles 850 - 1050Hr, 21 Junior suite 1250Hr, 10 Suite 1500 180US$, 3 suite 200 - 220US$). - 1800Hr). POHALK hhhh Flat Lux Apartments B-5, Khreschatyk 29/1, Slavutych Entuziastiv 1, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 238 09 39/(+380) 44 561 11 11/(+380) 44 561 11 12, fax (+380) 44 67 442 84 00, fax (+380) 44 538 09 38, booking@ 561 11 70, www.hotel-slavutich.com. If you want to stay flatlux.net, www.flatlux.kiev.ua. Flat Lux offers its on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the guests daily apartment rental service with spacious com- man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych. fortable accommodation. Apartments are fully equipped The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape, and furnished, with kitchen and bathroom, ranging in although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper size from one to three rooms. Apart from accomodation rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the the company provides transfer, ticket booking service, brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of which cleaning and laundry. Discounts are promised for regular come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning are guests. PARW available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper kiosk Senator Apartments City Center A-3, Pyrohova 6, and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (65Hr). Q400 MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 200 77 55, fax (+380) rooms (218 singles 329 - 459Hr, 158 doubles 429 - 845Hr, 18 44 200 77 33, [email protected]. junior suites 999Hr, 6 suites 1100Hr). OHAKC hhh ua, www.senator-apartments.com.ua. This serviced Ukraine C-4, Instytuts’ka 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) apartment complex occupies a newly renovated histori- 44 278 66 75/(+380) 44 279 03 47, fax (+380) 44 cal building in centre. It includes 27 fully furnished luxury 279 13 53, [email protected], www. apartments of 1-4 rooms. All apartments are designed ukraine-hotel.kiev.ua. The hotel formerly known as Moskva by a well-known international architect and equipped (Moscow) now provides a much more patriotic, if not so with everything required for a long stay. Modern kitchen, modern, backdrop to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The lobby is washer/dryer, high-speed Internet access, satellite TV, spa quite old-school, but the rooms have caught up with the times baths and 42’’ plasma TVs are available. The comfort of and offer cable TV with movie and Internet service. Attractive your stay is supported by a multilingual front desk staff, décor and furniture await you in higher-priced rooms, while housekeeping services, 24/7 security, doorman and the others lack amenities including air-conditioning. Q373 free on-site parking. Q Apartments available for rent: 1 rooms (singles 695 - 1107Hr, doubles 915Hr, Junior suite room - €115-130, 2 rooms from €235-250, 4 rooms from 997 - 1117Hr, Suite 1309 - 2518Hr). PHARFL� €470-500. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable. GKD hhh 27 rooms (apartments €130 - 225). PTHARL Senator Apartments Executive Court G-2, Dmytrivska 62/20, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) Budget 44 220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, execu- Holosiivs’kyi Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 93, MLybids’ka, [email protected], www.senator- tel. (+380) 44 259 76 72/(+380) 44 259 76 73, fax apartments.com. Located in a newly constructed (+380) 44 259 76 46, [email protected], www. building in a quiet neighborhood on the edge of downtown, hotelgolos.kiev.ua. In addition to its many nicely-priced the Executive Court property includes all the great ameni- rooms, the beautiful trees and lakes of Holosiivskyi Park are ties as the City Center location. The advantage of this a short walk away. The rooms have been renovated and, in locale is its close proximately to supermarkets and the addition to a flower or potted plant, have a phone and TV. Ukraina shopping mall. Long-term and corporate rates Conference facilities - 204Hr per hour. Breakfast not included. are negotiable. Q apartments €165 - 205. Q196 rooms (singles 222 - 648Hr, doubles 384 - 708Hr,

Sherborne Guest House J-3, Sichnevyi provulok 9, triples 486Hr, Junior suite 558 - 744Hr, Suite 1074 - 1164Hr). PHAULGK hh MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93, fax (+380) 44 490 96 99, [email protected], Mir Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 70, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) www.sherbornehotel.com.ua. Located in one of the 44 520 26 08/(+380) 44 520 26 09, fax (+380) 44 city’s best-loved neighbourhoods, Pechersk, near historical 520 26 79, [email protected], www.hotelmir. Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra with dozens of museums and art kiev.ua. This hotel is situated near Holosiyivskiy Park and galleries provides a range of private fully serviced apart- a lake. The scenery of the neighbourhood is lovely. Not far ments. Amenities include round-the-clock reception, business from the hotel is the National Exhibition Centre of Ukraine - a services, private laundry and secured parking. Apartments venue for many international exhibitions and a central bus feature spacious bedroom with king-size bed, marble-tiled station. Mir offers comfortable “business” and “economy” bathrooms and fully equipped kitchens. All apartments are class rooms. Breakfast is not included (90Hr). The restau- air-conditioned and are provided with sky/cable TV, security rant (Ukrainian and European cuisine) offers hotel guests safe and broadband internet access. Q 16 rooms (one-room coffee-breaks, lunches, dinners, banquets, etc. Q270 rooms 125US$, two-room 145 - 165US$, three-room 210US$, two- (singles 535 - 594Hr, doubles 621 - 690Hr, junior suites 692 room superior 280US$). PTARLW - 768Hr, suites 927 - 1029Hr, apartments 1091 - 1386Hr). PHARFLK hhh

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 27

kitchen, music centre, air-conditioners, washing machine, Apartment Rental microwave oven, iron, etc. The location is beautiful - around Grata Apartment Service C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Maidan and Khreschatyk. Q (4 one-room 60 - 65US$, 12 9A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 468 07 57, two-room 65 - 120US$, 2 three-room 100US$, 2 four-room fax (+380) 44 238 26 03, [email protected], 200 - 250US$). www.accommodation.kiev.ua. A small network of serviced RoomMe - web portal of short-term apartment apartments in the very heart of Kyiv. All apartments are rent tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, [email protected], modern, well furnished, well-equipped and come with cable Q www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date TV. Drivers and interpreters are also available. 31 rooms range of apartments in major cities of Ukraine and option to (10 studio €38 - 72, 16 one-room €45 - 104, 5 two-room book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal A €78 - 105). messaging system to get from apartment owner all neces- Kiev Apartments C-4, Horodets’koho 11, office 34, sary details. Using a recommendation system, clients can MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 93 685 00 76/ share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. (+380) 68 119 00 75, [email protected], www.ki- Q170 rooms (170 apartments €24 - 115). PAGW evapts.com. Kiev Apartments offers the largest variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Kyiv. Apart- ments for every taste, budget and style. Free airport pick-up. Hostels Q (studio 57 - 99US$, one-room 67 - 179US$, two-room Chillout Hostel Kiev H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, MLva 84 - 289US$, three-room 164 - 369US$). studio-rooms from Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 93 332 43 06/755 07 11/755 US$60, two-rooms from US$70, three-rooms from US$80, 07 11, [email protected]. Chillout is a cool, albeit four & five-rooms $150 and up. PA small, addition to Kyiv’s hostel choices. Rooms are competi- tively priced, clean and newly remodelled. Choose from a Kiev Apartment Service J-3, Sichneviy Provulok 9 (1st private double or a six or eight bed dorm. Located a short entrance), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93/490 walk from Shevchenko Park, L’va Tolstoho metro station and 96 99, [email protected], www.kievapartmentser- Khreschatyk, the neighbourhood is safe and foreigner friendly. vice.kiev.ua. Kiev Apartment Service offers a selection of Other perks include complimentary breakfast, Internet, laundry, beautifully designed apartments where you will find all the safe, hookah and transportation, tourism and visa information. facilities and luxury of a 4-star hotel. Every apartment has a Q3 rooms (1 double 224Hr, 2 6-bed dorm 95Hr). LGW contemporary European design, fitted with exquisite furniture and equipped with the usual domestic appliances such as City Centre C-4, Sofiivs’ka 2, apt. 10 (door code 149), satellite/cable TV, Broadband Internet access, stereo sys- MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax tems, complete kitchens and minibars. A full range of travel (+380) 44 278 52 46, [email protected]. City Centre support services are available, and includes airport transfer, located just in one minute from Maidan Nezalezhnsti on a visa support, sightseeing tours and car services. High quality quiet street which leads toward St. Sophia Cathedral. If you’re services and prices 30% lower than in Kyiv hotels are bound aware of the best location, however want to avoid the busiest to meet all your expectations. Q10 rooms (3 one-room and most crowded places, this hostel is just for you. A wide 110 - 125US$, 4 two-room 135 - 165US$, 2 three-room range of amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 170 - 280US$). PTARL hour reception, Wi-Fi access, satellite TV, coffee and tee. Q7 rooms (doubles €16 - 32, triples €13, quads €13, 5 mix dorm Kiev for You tel. (+380) 67 242 12 24/(+380) 68 810 €13, 8 mix dorm €12, 10 mix dorm €11). 87 87, [email protected], www.apkiev.com.ua. Comfortable, clean, fully-furnished domestic apartments D’Lux Kiev Hostel B-2, Observatorna 10, apt.6, MZoloti in the centre of Kyiv. All are equipped with air-conditioning, Vorota, tel. (+380) 97 832 88 88/(+380) 44 272 61 77, Jacuzzi, cable or satellite TV, DVD player, high speed Internet [email protected], www.dlux-hostel.com.ua. D’Lux and independent hot-water supply. Airport and train station Hostel’s located on one of the quietest streets of city centre, pick-up and accounting receipts are also available. Q (6 but it doesn’t mean you wouldn’t find any fun around. A couple one-room 50 - 85US$, 4 two-room 60 - 90US$, 2 three-room of clubs are just in few minutes reach and essential sights in 125 - 140US$, 1 four-room 130US$). PAR few steps from the hostel. You may wonder how could hostel got D’Lux name? It’s not an exaggeration of owners, the place’s Olga, tel. (+380) 44 237 20 06/(+380) 44 233 04 44, really superior, with Jacuzzi installed in each of two bathrooms [email protected], www.apartment-kiev.com. and a fireplace in a 12-bed dormitory, classy common room and Nice apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All the necessities for a nice views from both balconies. Q5 rooms (1 double €35, 1 comfortable life. Double beds, satellite TV, Internet, bathroom, quad €45, 2 8-bed dorm €7, 1 12-bed dorm €7). kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 28 RestauWhere torants stay Restaurants

Dream Hostel A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 47, MLva Homy atmosphere, a lot of information and close location to Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 66 244 14 47, fax (+380) 44 484 the train station make Kiev Central Station the good choice 50 10, [email protected], www.dream-hostel. for a stop in Kyiv. Choosing a dorm or one of privates you’ll get com. Dream Hostel offers its guests a most unique and friendly all range of usual hostel amenities including free Wi-Fi. Q5 atmosphere. To be honest, the hostel owners are friends of rooms (2 doubles €19 - 20, 1 quad €17 - 18, 1 6-bed dorm our editorial team, however we were even pickier, in our review €13 - 16, 1 12-bed dorm €13 - 14). PRLGW of the facilities. After all, believe it or not, Dream Hostel might Magic Bus Kyiv H-3, Saksahans’koho 31, app. 3, be considered as the most luxurious hostel in Kyiv. Aside from ML’va Tolstoho. When we first entered the place our first usual, very high standard amenities, your window overlooks thought was “cool, it’s so funny and bright”. Except of red/ Chervonoamiys’ka street and the common room window green/blue walls, there is a terrific… guess what?.. golden overlooks the newly renovated Olympiyskyi stadium, where toilet! Hostel stuff is very friendly and helpful and rooms are the final match of Euro2012 football championship took place. always clean. Due to its location on one of the main traffic Breakfast is available for 20Hr. Q4 rooms (1 double €18 - 24, 1 streets, it might be a bit noisy outside, but we may apply this quad €15, 1 8-bed dorm €9 - 10, 1 10-bed dorm €8 - 9). PW to a half of Kyiv hostels. Q3 rooms (2 doubles €12 - 13, 1 Dream House Hostel & Bar C-2, Andriivskiy Uzviz 12-bed dorm €8). 2D, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 580 21 69/ The Hub Hostel H-3, Saksahanskoho 66B, MUniversytet, (+380) 95 703 29 79, [email protected], tel. (+380) 44 229 12 66, [email protected], www. www.dream-family.com. This friendly hostel is located on thehubhostel.com. The Hub is in a separate unique little build- the famous & picturesque street of the artists. Part of a chain ing hidden in the centre on one of those rare, quite side streets. the hostel is in a lovely renovated building with beds for 100 +. The staff is helpful & friendly and great in English. It’s very neat Everything is clean with lots of facilities, the beds and furniture & clean with a 24 hour reception, free coffee & tea, and basically are all real wood. There is a kitchen, eating area, washing everything one looks for in a hostel; WiFi, a large social room with machine, WiFi. Prices range from 100Hr per person per night large screen TV, washing machine, lockers, and a well equipped to 520Hr for a private room for 1-2 with in room bathroom kitchen & eating area. There are bikes to rent and lots of activi- & toilet. The staff is supper nice and speaks fluent English. ties are arranged including games, movie nights, & pub crawling. They show genuine concern for their guests and arrange daily And if Max is on duty-ask him to show you his famous “bubble games & activities on premises and outside excursions like tricks”. Q dorm €14-19, privates from €50. PAGW bowling etc. Their motto is “We don’t just sell beds, we sell emotions - something to tell your friends about.” Q PAW TIU Khreschatyk C-4, Khreschatyk 8B, apt. 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 50 331 18 47, Gagarin B-6, Pervomayskoho 11, MKlovska, tel. (+380) [email protected]. This quaint little hostel is right 67 877 39 93, [email protected], www. in the heart of Kyiv, just a minute or 2 from Independence gagarinhostel.com.ua. Gagarin is located in 300 m from Square. Staff is very friendly and English speaking. There is metro station in the middle of Kyiv business area, a room for 10 and a room for 2. The kitchen is spacious and surrounded by all city skyscrapers. It provides accommoda- fully equipped, and the “living room” is quite comfortable with tion for 60+ people in 14 rooms, featuring free Wi-Fi, lockers, round the clock internet. Everything is very clean as all wear complimentary breakfast and coffee/tea are always at hand . slippers. Prices from 9 Euro per night with many excursions The hostel is clean and staff speaks English well. The common and “pick up“ services available. Q 10-bed dorm €12. PW area is equipped with kitchen and TV. Ask administrator for bike rental. Q PiGW Why not? H-3, Saksahanskoho 30/3, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 63 688 38 80, [email protected], Kiev Central Station A-2, Hoholivs’ka 25, apt. 15, www.whynothostels.com. The day we first came to this MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 93 758 74 68, www.kiev- hostel it was greeting its first guests, still being on small reno- centralstation.com. Managed by Brazilian/Ukrainian staff vation. Now when all works are done it welcomes everyone this hostel offers backpackers all they are expecting to get. with 6 rooms each uniquely designed. If you have only a few days in Ukraine, but want to explore the whole country - this hostel is just for you. Stay at Industrial 8 bed dorm to feel Airport Hotels yourself somewhere in or choose a 4 bed dorm of Coupe room and imagine travelling by Ukrainian trains. Soviet Hotel Airport Frenkelia 3, Boryspil, tel. (+380) room or Forest one, or maybe the Rocket room, whichever 44 281 73 76, www.airport-borispol.kiev.ua/eng. you choose you’ll get the high standard service and common Located in a quiet district of Boryspil, nine kilometers from set of amenities, including free breakfast and Wi-Fi, laundry the airport, 18 km from Kyiv proper and 34 km from the service, information support, etc. Smoking is allowed only in central railway station. Airport offers good valued suites basement. Q6 rooms (2 doubles €14 - 15, 2 quads €12, 1 equipped with all you need: TV, refrigerator, kettle and 8-bed dorm €9, 1 10-bed dorm €8). PGW air-conditioning. The special bus to the airport stops close by. Q36 rooms (16 singles 300 - 450Hr, 17 dou- Zig Zag A-5, Gorkoho 3A, apt.18 (press 18 at the bles 420 - 630Hr, 2 suites 600 - 900Hr, 1 apartments entrance), MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 98 700 08 80, 1080 - 1620Hr). PHA hh fax (+380) 44 272 61 77, [email protected], www. zzhostel.com. Zig Zag settled down across the road from Hotel Boryspil tel. (+380) 44 281 71 05, www. lovely Shevchenko park and the Red Building of National airport-boryspil.kiev.ua/eng. Close to Boryspil’s B Ter- University. The hostel can accommodate up to 62 people minal, this is the closest you can get to the airport without in 8 rooms, being probably the first hostel that offers male/ actually sleeping in it. Rooms are well-sized, and come female dorms. Nice lounge area upstairs provides TV/DVD equipped with telephone and satellite TV. There is a room and even PlayStation options, while downstairs there are for guests with special needs on the ground floor. Q134 several PCs for use and a nice kitchen. All rooms come with rooms (44 singles 260 - 390Hr, 49 doubles 420 - 630Hr, lockers, air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi. Q8 rooms (quad 1 apartments 800 - 1275Hr, 28 suites 470 - 780Hr, 12 private €60, 4-bed dorms €12 - 13, 6-bed dorm €11, 8-bed family suites 470 - 900Hr). PTAUK hhh dorm €10, 10-bed dorm €9). PAGW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 29

In the not so distant past, hungry tourists were limited to a handful of hotel restaurants with appalling service and taste- less food. Thanks to innovative entrepreneurs from Ukraine and the rest of the world, visitors can now choose from a vast range of options of local and international cuisine that rivals many Western European cities. New establishments with new themes open regularly as the quality of food, service, and décor improve as well. The prices at some new, trendy restaurants in the centre are rising accordingly, but an evening dining out at most places will still cost less than you would expect to pay for the same level of service and quality at home. Equally appetising moderately priced and budget options are widely available in all parts of the city. When the weather has warmed up sufficiently, many of the cafés and bars around the centre will set up outdoor seating. Our guide lists popular eating establishments from American to Ukrain- ian, so whatever dining atmosphere you find yourself in, the word here is - smachnoho! Ukrainian Blinoff H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, tel. (+380) 50 417 40 27, www.mastergood.com.ua. A traditional Ukrainian restaurant with several cozy rooms. One feels as if in a village home, with lots of Knick knacks memorabilia from the “old days”. The menu contains Slavic, Ukrainian and European cuisine. The prices seem lower than we expected; a pleasant surprise. There are banquet faculties and a wedding party was going on when we were there. They seemed very much at home. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

new Kniazhyi Grad C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrska 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 06 41, www. knyazhiy-grad.com. It was like entering a huge throne room. Located under the Diplomatic Institute, this cellar has been marvellously transformed. There are stones pillars and arches throughout with swords & plaster figures set in them. The cuisine is traditional Russian & Ukrainian with an average meal costing around 400Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALGSW Kult RA C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. This is a journey in time to Pre-Christian Ukraine. The staff wears traditional costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in English. A specialty is the mustached cat fish fillet smoked in vegetables for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is ab- solutely non-smoking. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW Kureni D-6, J-2, Parkova doroha 4, tel. (+380) 44 253 17 24/(+380) 44 360 56 24, www.carteblanche.ua/en/. Kureni, one of the oldest restaurants in Kyiv, has reopened after renovations. Chef Igor Patuk offers Ukrainian cuisine and follows the modern European traditions. The restaurant represents a truly outdoor style, but it is located in the centre of the city. The Ukrainian hospitality along with a breathtaking view of the Dnipro river and surrounding natural landscape make this place exceptionally unique. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAUILEGBXS

Much more reviews on Kyiv restaurants are available at kyiv.inyourpocket.com

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 30 Restaurants Restaurants

new Hinkalnaya C-3, Volodymyrska 11, MZoloti Vorota, Taras Bulba B-4, Pushkinska 2-4/7, MTeatral’na, tel. tel. (+380) 44 279 28 65, www.kafehinkalnaya.kiev.ua. (+380) 44 270 72 48, www.tarasbulba.kiev.ua. This is This is Georgian cuisine at its fines with a real Georgian chef. a very traditional Ukrainian restaurant-like being in a village. Walking in one is nearly knocked over by the compelling aroma The staff wears those cute costumes and the place is loaded drifting from the kitchen. There is an English menu which also with jars of handmade conserves & preserves along with offers European cuisine and has a great wine list with popular antiques & decorations all of which can be bought on the Georgian wines. We suggest trying the traditional snack of spot. Taras Bulba is family oriented with a great children’s play Klinkali for just 14Hr! An average menu runs around 200Hr. room and there is seating for 186. Not only is there an English There are photos of vintage US cars on the walls and there is menu - they have them is 36 languages! (Someone please a car actually built in/under the bar. From Wednesday-Sunday call Guinness). There are, as expected, many different dishes there is live music featuring Jazz & Blues from 20.30-22.30. of borscht available, rabbit, & 20 different types of vareniki, QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALEGW and plenty of delicious Ukrainian dishes. An average meal cost around 150-200Hr. Breakfast is from 09:00-12:00 with free Kuvshin (Jug) H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 94/10, coffee included. The business lunch is from 12:00-16:00 from MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 592 63 63, www.kuvshin. 60Hr. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. PiAGSW com.ua. Restaurant Kuvshin offers Eastern, Caucasian, and Ukrainian cuisine. The creative service accompanies the deli- Tsarske Selo (Tsarist Village) J-4, Ivana Mazepy cious taste of their dishes. The design and furniture reminds 42/1, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 66, www. you of the good old times when the whole family gathered tsarske.kiev.ua/en/about.htm. A bit expensive, but around the dinner table. The cosy family atmosphere at the the colourful village décor and traditional singing are quite restaurant comes with traditional Caucasian hospitality. entertaining, especially if you have no plans to go near a real QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTALGBS Ukrainian village. The food is traditional and tasty, and don’t forget to take your picture with the man laid out but still clutch- ing a jug of spirits. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALE European new Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, MPalats M Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 287 15 39, www.2k.ua. From Comelfo A-5, Pushkinska 34, Lva Tolstoho, tel. its opening, Varenichnaya #1 became a favourite for many. (+380) 44 234 85 86, www.karaoke-comelfo.com.ua. A To Kyivites it seems that this restaurant has always been a new edition to the non-stop restaurant scene. A great location feature near the Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be in the centre with a lovely cream-woodish décor. The menu (in met by a charming decorative pig called Varvara. There are English) offers European cuisine with an average meal costing three halls decorated in a picturesque Philistine style of the around 300Hr. We liked the filet minion 100g for just 125Hr. early 20th century, and a summer terrace. QOpen 24hrs. There is seating for 60 and there is karaoke every night from PTALGBS 21:00-06:00. QOpen 24hrs. PALW Cote d`Azur D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, Boutique Hotel Riviera, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, www.rivierahotel.com. Belgian ua. Sitting on the 7th floor of the hotel, one has a splendid view BAZ Belgium Art Zone I-3, Rybalska 22, MKlovska, of the old town Podol & the River. The décor is breath- tel. (+380) 44 332 99 65, www.baz.be. A bit difficult to taking with a gold-white combination. The cuisine is European/ find as the street changes names & numbers around-but glad Ukrainian with an average meal running around 500Hr. We heard we did! It’s a trendy café-restaurant-all new and bright colours they have a great “Chicken Kiev” but we ordered the pepper with a modern design and a very friendly-youthful staff... There steak with veggies for 320Hr-delicious! There are smoking & are constantly changing exhibits of paintings & photographs. nonsmoking areas with total seating for 80 plus a VIP room for There is a limited (English) menu offering Ukrainian & Belgium 15. The restaurant can be booked for banquets, weddings, & cuisine, (Well Belgium waffles & pancakes at least) and of other special occasions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGXW course several labels of the world famous Belgium beer. There new is seating for 80 at normal times and during special events Kotleta Café B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 30/10, MTea- up to 300 can fit in comfortably. Many charity events are held tralna, tel. (+380) 44 234 71 33, www.kotleta.net.ua. here and it’s a great place to book your private party. QOpen As the name implies they specialize in cutlets-12 different 11:00 - 23:00. PiAGSW varieties to choose from; chicken, fish, ham, etc. We tried Le Cosmopolite B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 47, MZoloti the round steak with ginger oil for 89Hr-yummy! The menu Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 78. Designed in the style is in English and while not a large one, it is sufficient. The of early 20th century Belgian brassieres located throughout staff were English speaking & extremely helpful. The design European capitals, Le Cosmopolite’s art-nouveau décor im- is simple with seating for 50 & lovely photos on the wall. An presses with lots of wooden panels and a marble bar. Belgian average meal will cost just 100Hr. There is breakfast from and international food is accompanied by a wide selection 08:00-11:00 & a business lunch from 12:00-15:00 costing of Belgian beers on tap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 69Hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PiAGW 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PALEB new Restaurant-Club Tolstoy A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 19, Caucasian MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 200 38 38, www.tolstoy. Ani H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) kiev.ua. Right in the centre by the Lva Tolstova Metro this 44 590 25 65. This restaurant is situated on the top floor of eloquently decorated restaurant/concert hall seats 200 one of Kyiv’s downtown “skyscrapers”. There is room for big for meals & 500 for concerts. The menu is in English & the parties and for romantic couples. The olma, cofta, tender leg of staff all spoke it well. The cuisine is European offering great lamb baked in tomato sauce, hachapuri, and lavash are delicious seafood and a superb wine list. There are also pizza & sushi and served in style. The open kitchen allows you to observe an menus. We enjoyed the beef stroganoff with mushrooms & experienced chef work his culinary magic, while live music played mashed for 125Hr. An average meal will run about 300Hr. From on unique national instruments will wake amazing emotions in Tuesday-Sunday there is live music from 11:00-23:00-usually your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTALEGBSW jazz. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEGXW Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 31

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 32 Restaurants Restaurants

new American Varadero G-2, Tarasa Shevchenko 27A, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 03 70, www.t-v.com.ua. Opened Goodman Steak House G-3, Zhylians‘ka 75, autumn 2012 it is a lovely restaurant on 3 floors with seating MVokzal‘na, tel. (+380) 44 596 00 00, www. for 70+. It has a bright-formal yet comfortable design and cosy ua.goodman.ru/en. Goodman Steak House is part fireplaces. There are pictures all over the wall of life in Cuba. of a European chain known for its top quality, American We thought it strange as Varadero has European/ Ukrainian cut steaks. The restaurant is located near the railway cuisine. The answer is simple; this was once a USSR govern- station in an office complex. It is quite modern and has ment building & Fidel himself once smoked a cigar here. Their seating for over 140. The walls are literally covered with speciality is Black Sea fish, and also the fact that one can photos from the US in the 1950‘s, a time of pleasure and order anything “off menu”. An average meal costs around prosperity. The menu has a lot to do with steak. An aver- 300Hr.They have a wide variety of wine & claim to have the age meal here cost around 320 Hr. There is a business lowest wine prices in town! The staff is super friendly & flu- lunch costing 110-115 Hr. The English menu was simple ent in English and they will be happy to take you on a tour. to understand and most of the staff spoke English well. QOpen 09:30 - 00:30. PAGSW QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAGW Soho-New York Steak & Seafood G-2, Artema 82, French MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 484 03 51, www. Café de Paris C-2, Andriivs’kyi Uzviz 34B, MKontrak- soho.com.ua. This American owned and operated New tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 221 22 18/(+380) 44 York ‘Dry Law times’ style steakhouse creates a relaxed 278 72 48, www.cafe-de-paris.com.ua. This café offers and elegant atmosphere that’s fitting for any dinner occa- a quiet retreat from the crowded bustle of Andriivskyi uzviz. sion. The average price per person for this wonderful dining The interior is in vogue, but the patrons are from all walks experience is approximately 300-350Hr. As a footnote, the of life. Though elusive, tables near the window come with management as well as most of the floor staff speak fluent pie sliced views of the street and Andriivs’ka tserkva (St. English, so there’s never a communication problem when Andrew’s Church). The homemade soups and signature ordering your steak ‘well done’. There are over 400 kinds salads are steaming and fresh, and the roast rack of lamb, of wine and live jazz sound. More than great business lunch roast duck and grilled salmon in a sweet chilli sauce are just goes for 150Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUEBS a few of the menu’s highlights. Breakfast service begins at 09:00, and there’s plenty of space for large groups. Gastronomic QOpen 24hrs. PTALGBSW Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. Foodtourist A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 5, Arena City, (+380) 44 279 54 62. Named after legendary Italian film 2nd floor, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 095 780 60 70, director, Fellini has a wonderful location for people-watching, www.foodtourist.com.ua. Part of an International theme, as the two terraces overlook the fashionable Ukraina cinema the Food tourist has just opened this year in Kyiv and right just off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious French and Italian smack dab in the centre. The theme is simply “food fashion”; food, including frog legs and goose liver for those who likes the cuisine is International & Ukrainian and they have an such delicacies. The food and drinks are rather expensive. open Josper grill. The chef is from Marseilles and speaks QOpen 24 hrs. ALBW great English as does the staff. There are so many different items to choose from, but we finally chose the grilled quail Vernissage C-2, Andriivskyi Uzviz 30, tel. (+380) 44 with veggies for just 137Hr. An average meal runs between 425 24 03, www.vernissagecafe.com/en. A recreation 150-200Hr. A unique feature is the two large dining tables of a Parisian bistro in the heart of Kyiv. Much of the décor is covered with beautiful thick grass. This was definitely a 1st imported from France as is the large selection of wine. The for us - and less for the staff to clean up afterwards. There is cuisine is French, European, and Ukrainian and overseen by a also a breakfast menu served from 09:00-12:00 with prices real French Chef. There is the main menu, a special “seasonal” about 35Hr. The place is quite large holding 200 guests and menu (both in English), and a “business lunch” (Russian only) there is WiFi available along with an excellent view of the city. menu. The French-style meat courses change monthly. We QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAJEGXSW tried the large and lovely Chevre Salad with warm goat’s cheese for 98Hr. and really enjoyed it. Also at B-2, Artema 10, GastroRock C-1, Vozdvyzhens’ka 10B, MKontraktova tel. (+380) 44 272 20 03; A-1, Turgenevs’ka 15, tel. (+380) Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, www.gastrorock. 44 484 46 96. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - kiev.ua. A cool type of pub for the younger age set. There 23:00. PAGBXSW is much truly unique here - like beer in a tin with fish, or is it fish in a tin with beer? You can buy your own cured leg of pork and leave it hanging for whenever you come in. For Indian steak lovers there is a 2kg steak for only 599Hr. There are Buddha-bar C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh- special Sunday dinners where the staff trade places with the nosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com. costumers. Breakfast is from 08:00-12:00 with a special for ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now 49Hr. There is a business lunch from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say An average meal runs about 200-250Hr. The place holds that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for 80+ and there is live music along with special cocktails every their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For Wed - Sat. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAEGXSW a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out €1 = 10.36Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.79Hr Buddha’s very professional website. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, (29 November 2012 official rates) Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PALG

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 33

Italian Ciro’s Pomodoro A-5, Shota Rustaveli 12, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 221 45 45, www.pomodoro.kiev. ua. Established in London in 1978 by hipster Ciro Orsini, the restaurant’s stylish mix of music, glitz and great Italian fare has translated into world wide success. The Kyiv restaurant Han-Gang is a much needed addition to the local scene in that it’s taste- fully hip; hopefully Ciro’s will serve as an example to all the Korean Japanese Restaurant pretentious wannabe joints that litter the capital. An Italian chef is on hand to make sure all dishes ooze with authentic- ity. Highlights include: fabulous penne, ravioli and fettuccini dishes; succulent seafood, such as the salmon filet in a porcini mushroom and wine sauce; and favourite pizzas of the stars. Live music (jazz, blues, rock) echoes through the basement halls nightly from 21:00 - 00:00, a DJ takes over from there and spins untill dawn. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PJAEG Doenjang-jjigae Dongtae-jjigae Da Vinci Fish Club C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 12, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52, 도스비드를 통하여 호텔을 www.da-vinci.com.ua. Italian fish restaurant is located in 예약하신분은 저희 식당에서 조식을 the historical centre of Kyiv. The interior is very original - a round bar on the first floor with a cosy balcony on the second. 하시면됩니다(오전7시부터) The most attractive features are the two aquariums teaming with live lobsters, flambé dishes, pizza from the original Italian Beautiful view of the Dnipro River oven and, of course, fresh fish and seafood. Da Vinci Fish Club Two VIP rooms with karaoke offers great business lunch specials (12:00 - 16:00) and live music every evening (except Sundays) from 20:00 - 23:00. The re ned taste of Korean cuisine Da Vinci Fish Club also invites you to attend master classes by its magnificent chef Salvatore De Vivo. For more details Free Wi-Fi Internet and master classes schedule contact the restaurant. QOpen 1, Entuziastiv Str., Slavutich Hotel, 16 oor PALEBW 11:00 - 24:00. Tel. 294 14 14 Oliva D-3, I-1, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 463 75 92, www.oliva.com.ua. With its Open 11:00 - 24:00 fresh and lively atmosphere, Olive has become a local favourite. To get a better idea of what to expect, imagine your favourite hometown coffee shop or café and twist in a Ukrainian flare. Korean The competitive prices really catch the eye on a menu that features a splattering of Italian favourites such as cannelloni, Han Gang Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, ravioli, risotto and pizza. Reasonable prices for cocktails will MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www. have you rubbing your eyes with disbelief. Make it a double. han-gang.com.ua. Getting to this restaurant takes a Expect a packed house on the weekend and it’s a bit smoky small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and so you might want to leave the kids at home with babushka. the Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn Also at G-3, Symona Petlury 5; Druzhby Narodiv bul. 25; right out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the Chervonoarmiys’ka 34. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGXS minor travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic Osteria Pantagruel B-3, H-2, Lysenka 1, MZoloti view of the right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo- Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 81 42, www.pantagruel. Pechers’ka Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip com.ua. A time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely the Japanese and order the Korean - you won’t be disap- recognised for its excellent home-made pasta and impres- pointed. Karaoke is available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. sive wine cellar. First-timers are strongly advised to try the PAGSW ‘tagliatelle alla Constantino’, named after Osteria’s chef- virtuoso Constantino Passalacqua. In the summer time you may also enjoy your meal on a charming terrazzo in front of the historic Golden Gate. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Mon - Fri Scottish 8:00 - 11:00 breakfast ALGB VaBene A-4, Bohdana Khmel’nyts’kogo, MTeatral’na, new tel. (+380) 44 377 75 65, www.carteblanche.ua. This Whiskey Corner C-3, Sofiivska 16/16, MZoloti Bistro belongs to the Carte Blanche network of unique Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 15, www.whisky- restaurants united by common discount system. We went corner.kiev.ua. “Show me the way to the next whisky in expecting a cool informal bistro and found a very formal, bar”-Well here it is! Just a stone’s throw from Independ- expensive restaurant where hardly anyone spoke English. We ence Square with 500 labels of whisky to choose from. had to make a bit of a fuss but finally found a friendly English The theme is “Scottish” hence the lovely plaid costumes speaking waiter. The interior is a rich looking dark brown wood, the staff wear. The décor is modern yet relaxed seating with bric-a- brack decoratively placed. The Chef is from Napoli, 70. There is an English menu with European & of course, so the Italian cuisine is the real thing. An average meal costs Scottish cuisine costing 300Hr for an average meal- around 450Hr. There is a very wide choice of wines. The menu steaks would be more. We dared to order traditional is in English and there is a breakfast menu from 10:00-12:00. Scottish haggis in a baked potato for 75Hr and were There is seating for 75 in the main hall and 15 in the VIP room. impressed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAGXW In summer, the terrace holds 20. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 34 Restaurants CAFés

Mediterranean Japanese Planeta Sushi C-4, Khreschatyk 12, MMaidan Monaco C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 20A (Peyzazhna Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 66 79, www.plan- Alley), MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 590 01 51, etsushi.com.ua/en/. A great choice for a wide variety www.monaco.com.ua. This restaurant adopts not only of Japanese dishes. You can try nigiri, poppies, mariavase the name of the Mediterranean principality, but its style and and tataki sushi, sashimi, yakitori, salads, and traditional atmosphere too. Six different halls at the restaurant can Japanese hot dishes. Living up to the Japanese proverb ‘the satisfy a wide variety of guests. The summer terrace on the guest is God’ expect personal service and attention to detail. second floor opens up on the marvelous city view. The chef Also at: H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 57/3, tel. (+380) 44 287 Thierry Alix and his team work hard to please their custom- 37 75; D-2, Sahaidachnoho 41, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 85; ers. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALEGBS C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 83. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW SushiYA J-3, Moskovs’ka 29A, MArsenal’na, tel. Quick & Cheap (+380) 44 502 22 22, www.sushi-ya.com.ua. With loca- tions throughout the city, this stylish sushi restaurant has Celentano H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 37, MZoloti Vorota, garnered a reputation for professional service, tasty sushi and tel. (+380) 44 272 54 62, www.pizza-celentano. prices that won’t bust your budget. The interiors are a bit loud, com. Power to the people! This expanding pizzeria chain but fun if you’re in the mood. Choose from authentic Japanese champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of soups, sashimi, rice dishes and other specialties. Although their own favourite toppings from a wide range of pos- the restaurants in this chain tend to be busy, we’ve always sibilities. Various salads and French crêpes with different been able to find a seat even on busy weekends. Also at C-3, fillings are also on offer, all to a pleasant background of Velyka Zhytomyrska 6/11; I-4, Schorsa 44; G-2, Peremohy Italian music. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PLGX prosp. 3A; C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrska 6/11; C-4, Hrushevskoho 4. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAULGXSW Dva Gusya I-2, Khreschatyk 7/11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 89 04. An enor- mous selection of European and Ukrainian dishes, from Russian Irish-fried potatoes to ‘bitok‘ - fried meat Kyiv-style. Krendel G-2, Pavlivska 17, tel. (+380) 44 585 98 97. There are also soups, salads, desserts and an assort- The decor is from the beginning of 20th century, which is ment of drinks. New dishes are introduced frequently, and Russian aristocracy with a French flavour. And the menu is special food is served in honour of Ukrainian holidays. according, featuring the most delicious pieces of traditional QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. GS Russian cuisine with their own homemade bread & pastries McDonald‘s I-2, Khreschatyk 19 A, MKhreschatyk, as ad-ons. We tried the veal sirloin with aubergine for 153Hr tel. (+380) 44 230 27 37. Despite popular Ukrainian and were really pleased with it. They also make their own pel- claims that the golden arches are forming cracks, most meni with unique, delicious stuffing. An average meal will cost locations are usually busy. The menu here is considerably around 300Hr. From 12:00-15:00, there is a 25% discount, smaller than in Western countries: the sandwich list is and those celebrating their birthday get a 20% discount. basic with some extras. Breakfast menu is available until For a romantic dinner there is live guitar music every Friday 10:00. Also at: C-4, Sofiivs‘ka 1/2; D-3, Borychiv Uzviz night from 19:00-22:00. English menu is available. QOpen 10; A-5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 22; A-3, B. Khmel‘nyts‘koho 09:00 - 22:00. PTGW 40/25 and everywhere. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAGSW Uzbek Olivie H-2, B.Khmelnytskoho 16-22, MTeatralna, (+380) 44 369 30 66. Located right in the centre, the Shafran B-2, Vorovs’koho 3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) Olive is actually a pleasant make-over of a former branch 44 569 10 10, www.karta.ua. This restaurant is one of the of Domashnia Kuchnia, a cafeteria that has been in Kyiv first places in Kyiv with a real atmosphere of the Middle East. for ages. The décor is an eye catching light green and The restaurant has a rich Uzbek interior with marquee tents, there are TV screens for football everywhere. The food couches, and a private hookah VIP room. There is a wide is everyday Ukrainian and one can get a decent meal selection of Uzbek pilaus on the menu along with many che- anywhere from 20-50Hr depending on how hungry one bureki, Uzbek patties with meat, and sweet Eastern delights. is. Also at Metrograd Shopping Mall. QOpen 08:00 - Every evening there are live eastern dance performances. 23:00. PAG QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAULEGBXS Puzata Khata H-1, Kontraktova pl. 2/1, MKon- Tubeteyka H-3, Tarasivska 29/50, MOlimpiyska, tel. traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 46 99, www. (+380) 44 287 02 42, www.2k.ua. A real Uzbek restau- puzatahata.com.ua. It is a great place for breakfast, rant! It’s just outside the centre but easy to get to. There is a lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, and there lovely terrace outside and inside it’s decorated to the hilt with are a wide variety of pastries on the second floor. For items and costumes from Uzbekistan. It seats 120 with smok- people who know almost nothing about Ukrainian food ing and non smoking areas. The staff is really friendly and and are not sure if it is worth spending a lot of money in speaks English ok. An average meal costs around 200-250Hr a restaurant to find out what Ukrainians like the most, and there are business lunches weekdays from 12:00-16:00 it is a good opportunity for a trial taste. Besides, you for 64 & 84Hr. Also at Esplanadna 2 and Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 34. will find yourself in a real Ukrainian peasant house, so, Each of these two is as perfect as the first one. enjoy! Also at B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4, Passage; H-3, QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAEGSW Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40; D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1; B-5, Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska pl., Globus Shopping Mall. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGSW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants CAFés 35

Cafés in Kyiv quite often offer much more than just a cup of perfect coffee with a pastry. Most of them have soups, Pay-for-Time salads, and sandwiches on their menus, so the border between restaurants and cafés is very thin. Look over the Smart café Biblioteсh G-3, Saksahanskoho 120, selection of cafés in our guide and pick the one that is just MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 351 19 90, www.biblio- right for your mood or occasion. tech.com.ua. Here is a 1st. Instead of paying for what one Aroma Espresso Bar H-4, Dymytrova 5, MOlimpiiska, orders-simply pay for the time there. 36Hr for the 1st hour tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, fax (+380) 44 201 66 22, & 18Hr for each additional hour - or 72Hr for the whole day. www.aromacafe.com.ua. A nice friendly place to relax From Monday-Friday the 1st hour is 18Hr before 16:00. So and have light meals & breakfast. Mellow music is played; what does one get for this? Plenty! Free coffee, tea, & all the there is Wi-Fi, a moderately priced English menu. Aroma juice one can squeeze. There are also cookies, sweets, and belongs to a world-wide chain of coffee shops with a good toast. Bring your own food if you want or order from Dominos reputation. We tried one of the house specialties, “Aroma Pizza & get a discount. There are X-boxes, table football, ping Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children are welcome. Also at pong, and a photo copier/scanner-all for free. There is also a Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, tel.: “seminar” room where different workshops are held. QOpen (+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PNGW PTAVGBXSW new usually full. There are pies, pies, and more pies and they Café Imbir (Ginger) H-3, Zhylianska 7, MOlimpiyska, practically hit you in the face as they are right on display when tel. (+380) 44 287 61 80, www.cafeimbir.com. Reminded one enters. The pies are both sweet & savoury (we saw some us of the TV series Harry’s law-The lawyer took over the prem- that were something like a quiche). It also helps if your name ises of a designer shoe & kept on selling the shoes. Ginger happens to be Nicoli. Only Nicoli’s are allowed to work here, took over a home decorations store and continues to sell home and there are pictures of famous Nicoli’s al over the walls. It is decorations. It’s a café-restaurant with a lovely atmosphere self service, so you choose the exact piece of pie you want. All offering vegetarian food with a vegan menu. An average meal are homemade and fresh and cost between 15-30Hr.! There will cost around 150Hr. Breakfast is served all day long & there is also a bar in another section that offers a great variety of is a business lunch as well from 12:00-16:00 costing 60Hr. In cocktails for 40-80H. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PJGW addition to the house decorations there is a shop selling oils, Repriza A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, MZoloti Vo- Asian spices, incense, & more. There are live concerts of Indian rota, tel. (+380) 44 502 23 46, www.repriza.com. One music from time to time so check it out-it is an experience you of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Viennese will not want to miss! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PiAEW room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain the new kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specializing in Chocolate Boutique Vasiliadi H-4, Chervonoamiyska danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need 82, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 73 71, www. of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups vasiliadi.kiev.ua. This unique café features “creations” from and salads. Also located at D-3, Sahaidachnoho 10/5; B-2, the Greek family Vasiliadi which has been making handmade Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. QOpen chocolates since 1922. This niche café seats 35 and offers 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGBS a limited yet great (English) menu of Greek cuisine. The staff Shokoladnitsa H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 48, ML’va was young, friendly, and very energetic. We tried the mous- Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 00 88, www.shoko.com.ua. saka for just 35Hr and really enjoyed it! There is also a great Shokoladnitsa is exceptional for two reasons: the service is breakfast menu. They have a wide selection of cakes and likely the best of all the coffee house chains in Kyiv, and many deserts and also sell some original Greek products. QOpen are open 24hrs. There’s nothing pretentious, or rushed about 08:00 - 21:00. PiASW this place, despite the fact that it originated in Moscow. Chill- Double Coffee D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 1/2, MKontrak- out with a beverage, and nibble on a variety of familiar café tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 206 69 11, www.doublecof- delectables at locations around the city that offer a conveni- fee.com.ua/eng. This charming café chain catches your eye ent detour from the rat race. As with all “chains”, expect con- from the start with its wonderfully illustrated menu. A wide sistency and mediocrity and you won’t be disappointed. Other variety of dishes from kashas and crêpes to sushi sets and mentionables include menu in English, continental breakfast salads with pumpkin seeds can satisfy any taste or mood. until 11:00 and coffee to go. Also at Saksahans‘koho 53/80, The wide variety of tastes and smells in this coffee-bean Basseina 1/2. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW atmosphere helps you to forget all about your hurried life on SkyArtCafé B-5, Сhervonoarmiyska-Baseyna 1-3/2, the outside. The café is often crowded on the weekends, so ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. This unique plan accordingly. Also at: L-2, Luhova 12; C-4, Mykhailivs’ka café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk Art Centre. 6. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGS The décor is pure white and of a special geometrical design Dragee Café B-2, Lvivska ploscha, MZoloti Vorota, tel. with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright we had to wear (+380) 93 603 24 45, www.dragee.com.ua. Located in sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in English and contains a cute little park right in the heart of Lvivska ploscha, this soups, salads, and light meals. Prices are moderate to pricy. It little café has a great though limited menu of European/ is closed when the Art Center is closed for changing exhibits. Italian cuisine. A meal for 2 runs about 300Hr. and there are QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. PAGBXW specialties that change weekly. There is a 30% discount for Wolkonsky C-4, Khreschatyk 13, MKhreschatyk, tel. all meals between 12:00-16:00 weekdays. From Thursdays (+380) 44 201 03 96, www.wolkonsky.com. The aroma to Saturdays there is a DJ that begins around 20:00 & it’s a of fresh baked bread will have you salivating from the second real party atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat you set foot in this posh café/bakery. Although you can’t 10:00 - 02:00. PTAEGW expect to benefit from any government bread subsidies, you Pirogovaya Nikolay A-3, B. Khmelnyts’koho 35/1, can count on friendly service, a soothing atmosphere and MUniversitet, tel. (+380) 44 353 88 86, www.piro- an impressive selection of pastries, breads, sandwiches, govaya.com. A great place to go for a light snack or tasty chocolates and other goodies. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. deserts. It’s only been open since December, 2011and it’s PTALBS kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 36 Nightlife

place there and the drinks are about the cheapest in town. Bars & Pubs There is a DJ nightly playing different music. QOpen 18:00 - Babai Pub A-4, Pushkinska 25, MTeatralna, tel. (+380) 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PGXW 44 235 75 76, www.babai-family.com.ua. The name new translates to “bogie man”, though there was nothing scary at FeelinG D-3, Sahaidachnoho 8, MPoshtova Ploscha, all here. It’s a nice sports bar with terrace seating for 50+; its tel. (+380) 44 425 34 34, www.absurd.com.ua/feeling. right in the centre with friendly English speaking staff & menu A nice romantic club spot in Kyiv’s old centre of Podol. The as well. There is European & Ukrainian cuisine with an average name translates “owl” is you wonder why there are pictures meal costing just 100Hr. There is a breakfast menu served of the wise old bird. It is lavishly decorated with pictures & 09:00-12:00, and Monday-Friday there is a 30% discount on mobilia of rock stars. There is a limited menu of European all items from 12:00-16:00 (excluding alcoholic drinks).There cuisine at moderate prices with seating for 150 in both are large TV screens to watch the football games on at any smoking & non smoking sections. The staff is friendly, speak time. QOpen 24hrs. PAGXW English and really make one feel at home. There is karaoke Bavarian Beer House A-5, Esplananda 34/2, MPalats nightly from 21:00-02:00. QOpen 24 hrs. PAGXW Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 287 42 03, www.bavarian-beer- Gambrinus H-3, Gorkoho 48A, MLva Tolstoho, tel. house.com. Basically across the street from Olimpiyskyi (+380) 98 120 82 16/(+380) 44 287 02 45, www. Stadium, this German Pub is the real thing! Authentic German ganbrinus.kiev.ua. Not far from the Olympic Stadium is this food along with European & Ukrainian cuisine can be found nice sports bar that seats 70. There is a huge TV screen to here for very reasonable prices. An average meal like the view football and other sporting events. The decor is like being famous “currywurst” with fries & a German beer will run you in an aquarium & there is a large non-smoking area. The food around 150-200 Hr. The menu is in English as well as German- is European and not expensive, as an average meal costs and staff is very helpful. There are smoking and non smoking just 50-100Hr. There is an English menu and they specialize areas. From Monday-Friday 12:00-16:00 there is a business in German & Belgium beer. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun lunch for 60Hr. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PANXW 12:00 - 02:00. PAGXW Bobber Pub A-2, Vorovskoho 39/11, MZoloti Vorota, Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, tel. (+380) 44 486 49 72, www.bobberpub.com. It’s a MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta. real biker’s pub near the circus, though you probably won’t ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught see any ‘Hell’s Angels” types here. You will see a real clas- beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There sic motorcycle and the walls decorated with LP’s. There is are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, seating for 60 and you will enjoy real pub food! - Lots of fried and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers snacks and main dishes from 50Hr+. An average meal costs business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. 100-150Hr. We had to get the lamb chops with berry sauce QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULVEGBXS for 150Hr and really enjoyed it! A business lunch is served weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for just 38Hr.There is live music Gorkiy Pub H-3, Gorkoho 3A, MLva Tolstoho, tel. weekends with rock, jazz, etc from 20:00-23:00. QOpen (+380) 44 287 00 23, www.gorkiypub.kiev.ua. We all 09:00 - 02:00. PAEW know who Gorkiy was, right? The guy that built that park in Moscow that they made a movie about. The place if full of new writing memorabilia and dedicated to the famous Russian/ Carne Grill Bar B-5, Basseina 5A, MPalats Sportu, Soviet author. The cuisine is Ukrainian & European and believe tel. (+380) 50 900 94 92. A nice quaint place seating 40 it or not, they actually serve pastrami sandwiches for just right in the centre with very reasonable prices. It’s across 80Hr! There are also 15 top brands of whisky on offer and the the street from Mandarin Plaza and is a nice place for a business lunch is weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for just 40Hr. late romantic meal. The menu is in English, with an average There are many different promotions of one kind or another so meal costing 150Hr. We tried the “Carne Grill Munich”. It was check them out. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat delicious & cost just 29Hr for 100 grams. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. PAGXW 02:00. PAGX Naturlih Pub B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, MTeatral’na, Dorothy’s Pub H-3, Saksahans’koho 16/43, ML’va tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih.com.ua. The Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 05 30. The sign out front read most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I draft beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. been transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes Have the barman pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, of Monument Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds Belgian, Irish or local brewski, then sit back and watch the glaring at me from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles bustling hordes hike up historic B. Khmel’nts’koho street and the sweet smell of Western American style barbecue from the cosy view inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrump- creeping out from under the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. tious menu items to go with the suds including German style Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t be. The service here is far too sausages, pasta, pizza and classy euro dinner items. The good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who the hell is Dorothy? As it spacious halls and laid-back atmosphere are conducive for turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling is not sitting next to me conversations. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he PJAGXW sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m sure he would not object to such a wonderful mishmash of sites, O’Brien’s C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 17A, MMaidan Nezalezh- sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No one seemed to nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 84, www.obriens.kiev. know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great specials! ua/eng. Kyiv’s first Irish pub is still a favourite with expats QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAIEGS and upwardly mobile Ukrainians. O’Brien’s bars serve up plenty of beer great with none-too-shabby pub food like Fazenda Bar H-2, Vorovskoho 2B, MZoloti Vorota. shepherd’s pie, and their Irish breakfast is enough to hold It’s easy to find as its on stilts right by Lvivska Ploscha. It’s you until dinner. Upstairs you’ll find darts, billiards and the basically an elevated-underground pub. It’s not so big, origi- city’s best atmosphere for watching sports on the big screen. nally decorated and does have a non smoking section. It’s QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PALE frequented by youth and often full. But there’s always some

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Nightlife 37

Patrik Pub J-3, Lavrska 6, MArsenalna, tel. (+380) 44 254 35 15. It’s more of a Ukrainian restaurant & pub with Kyiv Nightlife Scene Irish & German themes than your typical Irish Pub. There is live music weekends from 18:00-22:00 and Irish type groups Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There do jam there. It’s beautifully decorated inside with lots of TV is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, screens for football and has a large outside seasonal seating but don‘t be surprised if you encounter more of your own area, total capacity-200. The staff was very helpful with fluent countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. English. The cuisine is European-Mexican-Ukrainian with an It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, average meal costing 200-300Hr. There is a business lunch especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for just 50Hr. QOpen 11:00 - drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, 23:00. PAGBXW the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile traffic, making it Kyiv‘s most active scene for nightlife, M Porter Pub C-4, Kostelna 4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little tel. (+380) 44 278 04 90, www.porter.com.ua. A hole in more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are the rock overlooking Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Porter Pub is an just as busy now as any time of the year. alluring venue for hungry, music-loving travellers. The cosy yet If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe, edgy ambiance, reasonable prices, and live rock and alterna- you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced tive make for a winning combination. Signature dishes include drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs. a bean and chicken salad, bacon/egg/sausage breakfast and A few differences you might note are the availability of chicken stuffed crêpes. The pub’s own homebrew is worth hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional wrapping your lips around. Getting good service here is a bit dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for like flipping a coin: It’s been 50/50 in our experience, but we men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, keep coming back, as there’s just something magnetic about attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to P this joint’s energy. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. Sunduk C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. The main features of this classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill transactions Clubs made via a treasure chest. In spite of a noticeable attempt to Arena Entertainment B-5, Basseina 2A, ML’va Tol- copy Western styles in the interior, the music is very Eastern. stoho, tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev.com/ The dishes and drinks listed on the menu are not necessar- eng. This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision 2005 ily present in the kitchen. Nevertheless, if you plan to arrive participants. It is an entertainment complex accommodating after 18:00, it would be better to reserve a table beforehand several bars and a night club under one roof. In any case, you and prepare for being consumed by cigarette smoke even in may wind up your night out in the night club partying untill the room for non-smokers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAE dawn. Q Open: restaurant and Beer House 09:00 - 04:00, SПБ (SPB) Pub B-5, Bessarabska pl. 2 (Bessarabsky Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun 22:00 - 06:00. Market 2nd floor), MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 67 218 46 POALEBK 42/(+380) 44 234 89 34, www.barspb.ua. Located right Art Club 44 B-4, Khreschatyk 44B, MKhreschatyk, tel. above Kyiv’s famous market is this great sports bar. There (+380) 44 279 41 37, www.club44.com.ua. This grungy is seating for 150 smoking & non smoking with TV monitors underground niche located through an arch just off Khreschtyk everywhere for watching football games. There is also a free Street has been a haven for jazz, punk and alternative music table football for bored fans. The staff is friendly and there enthusiasts for years now. The club regularly features renowned is an English menu of mostly grilled snacks, pizza, & various bands from the US and UK. Crowds tend to be a bit intense Friday hamburgers. An average meal costs around 150-200Hr. The and Saturday, but mellow out Sunday for jazz. Admission fees vary bar seems to thrive on promotions of one kind or another. Like depending on the act. The club also hosts photo exhibitions and if you have the business lunch, Monday-Friday-12:00-16:00 for showings of art-house films nightly at 19:00. The music blares 50Hr then you get a free beer if you return the same evening. from 21:00 until 23:30. The full bar, decent selection of munchies, QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAGXW and hip staff round out 44’s attractions. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Trolleybus Pub B-4, Prorizna 21, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. Starting from 20:00 on Thu 30Hr, on Fri (+380) 44 279 34 34, www.trallebus.com. It’s more and Sat 50Hr. Sun - Wed free entrance. PAEW than a pub-restaurant; it’s a shrine to “trolley buses”! It’s Byblos B-1, Artema 20, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) not far from the “Golden Gate” and contains memorabilia 44 288 18 88, www.byblos.kiev.ua. This is a very large, galore along with old photos of trolley buses and depicting modern, and beautifully decorated club-restaurant. The the glorious days of the Soviet Union. There is also a display staff was warm and friendly and English speaking. It is a of “carpet paintings” and lots of souvenirs. There is seating restaurant in the day time and a disco begins at 23:00. There for 100 which includes a covered terrace and a VIP section. is no dance floor, but people catch the beat and dance by The cuisine is Ukrainian & European with the speciality being their tables. The menu is European cuisine partly in English. their “hot pots”, lots of different beer, and a large selection Prices are moderate to pricy with a large selection of well of cocktails. An average meal will run around 100Hr. There is priced cocktails. Private banquets are often held and there a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-15:00 for just 45Hr. are 2 VIP rooms for up to 15 people. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGXW PALEGBKXSW Viola’s Bierstube A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 1A, Carribean Club G-2, Symona Petliury 4, MUniversytet, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 37 51. This cosy tel. (+380) 44 288 12 90, www.caribbean.com.ua/ basement beer bar is a popular hangout for both foreigners eng. Want to test your salsa skills? Carribean Club proudly and the young English-speaking Ukrainians. It offers a wide presents the live rhythms of the Latino group “disLOKAdos”. range of beer and other alcoholic drinks as well as a selection For you novices, the dance school is one of the first and most of tasty bar snacks. The first Wednesday of every month is popular salsa schools in Kyiv. The cost of one lesson is 50Hr. ‘Women’s Club’ night here, with fun and games for girls only. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Admission 50-120Hr for men, 20-80Hr QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. for women. PAILEG

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 38 Nightlife What to see

Crystal Hall J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MDnipro, tel. Sorry Babushka G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, MUniver- +380) 44 288 50 69, www.crystalhall.com.ua. Located sytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka. in a converted ice rink on the edge of a hill overlooking the com.ua. Out with the old and in with the new! This club Dnipro River, Crystal Hall is one of the largest and hippest has elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once clubs in the capital. Although the capacity is 2000, there’s no popular Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually guarantee that you’ll get in as face control is enforced and the been made to the new club’s interior, but with a completely place gets busy for big events. The dance floor and bar are overhauled concept, Babushka has become an immediate huge, and the VIP room has a separate entrance and private hit among the capital’s clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find bar. Laser and video shows ricochet off the domed ceiling as karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s and 90’s and disco until some of the regions top DJs and bands perform. The outdoor your platforms cave in on the third floor. There’s a karaoke seating is relaxing and the menu offers a sufficient array of tournament every Wednesday - the winner receives a DVD cold appetisers, hot dishes (omelettes, sea bass with grilled player. Other special offers can be found throughout the week veggies, salmon, pork ribs, etc.) and the mandatory for Kyiv at Babushka’s Vnuchata (grandchildren’s) Party. QOpen clubs: sushi.QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBW 22:00 - 05:00. PA new Sullivan Room B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. Dante Zima Night Club C-5, Muzeynyi prov. 10, (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. This MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 221 11 01. club is an affiliate of the New York Club and is ranked in the A recent entry into the Night Club scene, this is the winter top 100 in the world. It offers concerts of top groups playing location of an established club that is outside in the summer. a wide variety of music; as well as theatrical performances, It is lavishly designed and holds up to 400 plus VIP rooms. and fashion shows every weekend evening. Then the disco There is a DJ with go-go girls for entertainment. They have a begins and lasts all night. It is a beautifully decorated 2 sto- limited menu with snacks & sushi. They hold theme parties ried club with capacity for up to 500. Concert prices begin at & banquets can be arranged. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed 40Hr. and the disco prices range from free to 50Hr. QOpen Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAW 19:00 - 06:00. PAEXW Disco Radio Hall I-1, Moskovskyi prosp. 32, tel. (+380) Xlib Club D-1, Frunze 12, MKontraktova Ploscha. The 44 428 73 88, www.disco-club.kiev.ua. This fashionable name of this new club Xlib (meaning bread) is an expression nightclub is wedged in the hull of a floating entertainment of the essence of the place: simplicity. It is hidden on a small complex that also houses a karaoke club and a Japanese res- street in Podil, and the interior has yet to be refurbished. taurant. It attracts some of Kyiv’s hipper residents including Basically the place is two rooms: a dance floor, and a chill local celebrities. Well-known DJs and many exciting live acts out room. Crowds throng to enjoy the DJs’ stylish and con- fill the club’s docket. Tables can be reserved for 300-1000Hr, temporary sounds. The fact that it lacks a bit in décor and and an admission fee applies. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed extravagance is - if anything - a bonus. QOpen , Thu, Sun Mon, Tue. Admission 50-80Hr for males, 50-60Hr for females. 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PA Sun is free for females. PALK Docker’s ABC B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4A, MKhres- Gentlemen’s Clubs chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker.com.ua. Marilyn A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, This is a café and bar during the day and a night club in the tel. (+380) 44 240 76 68. Show bar Marilyn is situated in evenings. The menu, in both English and German languages, the basement of the beerhouse Talgen. It offers a non-stop is of European and Ukrainian cuisine. Live music with a dock programme of erotic shows featuring beautiful dancers. style interior. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTJAE Private shows and VIP-rooms are also available. Admission D*Lux Entertainment C-4, M. Hrushevs’koho 3, 40Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAULGS MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91, Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka www.dlux.com.ua. Established 1939. A Spacious, huge 111/113, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00, complex with a 2 story disco, lounge bars with live music, www.nosorog.com.ua. A cosy little place that hosts as many 2 terrace-restaurants, and a gift shop. Well known DJ’s as 40 people. There are 8 private tables, Indian décor with perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers). The staff was friendly and plastered illustrations from Kamasutra, a bar and European English speaking. The menu is in English, not so large and cuisine. Beer costs 20-25Hr. Main dishes are around 60Hr. not so cheap. Entrance (for parties only) is 200Hr for men Also at Artema 37/41, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00.QOpen and 100Hr for women. A strict dress code; smart, casual, is 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women. strictly enforced. Disco is from 00:00-06:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBXSW Paradise Cabaret A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./ Pushkins’ka 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 537 Milennium C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezh- 45 32, www.paradise-cabaret.com.ua. Located on the nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 82 02, www.milennium-bar. fifth floor of Premier Palace Hotel this club keeps the great- kiev.ua. Milennium claims to put on a ‘non-stop erotic show’ est traditions of Parisian cabaret. Luxurious red velvet with of beautiful dancers, complete with private shows and table gold and crystal interior will surely make you fill yourself in dancing. This fantasy world at Dnipro Hotel is yours for the Paradise, so you should just relax and enjoy women’s beauty. taking - after forking out 100Hr for the admission. But for that QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for price you get to enjoy ‘gourmet snacks’ from the bar. QOpen women. PALS 21:00 - 06:00. AL Solid Gold B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 2nd floor, ML’va Route 66 G-3, Zhylians’ka 87/30, MVokzal’na, tel. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 494 09 14, www.solidgold. (+380) 44 239 38 65, www.route66.com.ua. Finally! A ua. Recently opened gentleman club offers it’s visitors cosy, place that offers great service at the bar. The atmosphere is stylish interior and amazing shows. Except for the main hall, lively and the ribs and wings are tasty and “American”. The a club offers guests a VIP lounge and Chill out zone. Solid beer, thank God, is not American; it’s imported from countries Gold is located on the 2nd floor of Arena Entertainment Com- that know how to brew, i.e. the Czech Republic. The summer plex. Reserve a table in advance, especially on weekends. terrace is popular with locals, but the real draw is the live Rock QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for ‘n’ Roll that starts up nightly at 21:00. QOpen 24hrs. PAK women. PALS Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife What to see 39

Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous gold- drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic frogs, mermaids and other domed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanctuaries figures are constructed of cement, a state-of-the-art mate- of worship that impress with their history and art. Since rial back in the 19th century. A local cement factory owner everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly provided Horodecki with a complimentary supply knowing that created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums, the interest generated by such an unusual home would pay-off. historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air Ahead of its time, the design makes full use of the uneven Kyiv museum on the edge of the city limits. landscape: Three stories rise on one side and six descend the hill on the other. The interior design was also considered radically modern, and included an ice room for food storage, a Essential Kyiv wine cellar, a laundry room, a garage for horse drawn carriages Andrew‘s Descent C-2, and even a special room for Horodecki‘s cow. This insured fresh MKontraktova Ploscha. milk for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded in mystery and This is without a doubt one of legend, this place continues to intrigue visitors. Kyiv‘s oldest and most belov- Independence Square ed streets. In ancient times it C-4, MMaidan Nezalezh- linked the administrative part nosti. Kyiv‘s central square of the upper town with Podil, has undergone major chang- the lower town of merchants es in recent years, both above and artisans. This steep and and below ground. The square winding cobblestone lined is locally referred to as “The descent is a traditional venue Big Greenhouse.” That‘s not for outdoor festivals and fairs, a botanical compliment but and is dotted with numerous intriguing art galleries, museums, rather an indictment of the cafés, bars and restaurants. Being at the very heart of the city‘s Globus Shopping Centre‘s art community, the street is a favourite stop for tourists in search glassy domes. Throughout of paintings and traditional Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well- Soviet times, October Revolution Square, as it was known, known repository for all souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans featured a daunting Lenin statue. Despite the seemingly con- come out in full force on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing stant modifications, Maidan has been the city‘s epicentre for building at N°15 is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard‘s Castle.” generations. In 2004, it gained world notoriety for staging the Unfortunately, the Descent is currently under reconstruction, events of the Orange Revolution. Images of the square circulated but no worries...a hidden gem is around back. Head down the the globe for weeks as Ukrainians from all walks of life changed/ street, and to the right you‘ll find a steep, twisting flight of iron delayed the course of Ukrainian history. As you walk on Maidan, steps. Those with calf muscles tough enough to conquer the imagine the entire square and surrounding streets filled by a climb are rewarded with a commanding vantage point above Podil determined yet jubilant orange mob. Just recently, in 2012, and the Dnipro. The Bulgakov Museum is a must visit for literary Maidan Nezalezhnosti together with the main Khreschatyk street enthusiasts, and is located at N°13. At the bottom of the hill, turn were one again crowded. EURO 2012 European Championship left to Kontraktova ploscha or right to reach Sahaidachnoho vul., made from Ukraine’s main square the biggest Fan Zone of the an oasis for connoisseurs and coffee lovers. event. The square often becames a location for big free concert events. On June, 30 2012 Sir Elton John and legendary Queens Golden Gate (Zoloti Vo- together with Adam Lambert rocked the city. rota) B-3, Volodymyrs’ka 40, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Khreschatyk B/C-4, (+380) 44 234 70 68. Zoloti MKhreschatyk. From its Vorota, one of the most unique start at European Square to architectural/archaeological its terminus at Bessarabs‘ka sites in Kyiv, reopened in 2007 Square, Kyiv‘s most beloved after a lengthy reconstruc- street is not even two kilo- tion. The remains of ancient metres long. Despite what Kyiv’s main gate were originally has been called the most constructed during the height impressive unbroken string of the Kyivan Rus, and are of Stalinist architecture any- included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Painstakingly planned where, Khreschatyk‘s wide by historians and architects, the bright new construction that chestnut lined sidewalks are entombs the ancient walls is considered an exact replica of the ideal for a relaxing stroll. The trees provide both welcome shade original gate. From the platforms, the views of Volodymys’ka vul. from the blistering summer sun and shelter from the region‘s and surrounding area are stunning enough to justify the price of signature spring downpours. On weekends and holidays, the admission. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00. Closed street becomes a pedestrian only thoroughfare where locals, Mon. 15Hr for adults, 10Hr for children and students. travellers and street performers mingle and frolic. It‘s hard to imagine that this was once a deep valley surrounded by dense House With Chimeras forest. The valley was named Khreschata (crossed) in reference C-5, Bankova 10, MKhres- to the many ravines that converged in the area. In ancient times, chatyk. Built more than a Kyivan Rus princes hunted wild game here (the only hunting century ago by eccentric done on Khreschatyk these days is for souvenirs, fashion and Kyivite Wladislaw Horodecki, fashionable Ukrainian women). Some of the city‘s best shopping this is the most unique struc- can be found both above and below ground. Trendy malls have ture in Kyiv. Sophisticated been dug beneath Bessarabs‘ka and Maidan Nezalezhnosti. As architectural forms are buried for above ground shopping, TsUM (Central Department Store) beneath the phantasmal fig- has become rather modern and has little to show of its Soviet ures of Horodecki‘s dreams. past. Perhaps in an act of poetic justice the whole street will The elephant trunk storm collapse under this retail strain and revert back to a lush valley.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 40 What to see tourist information • travel • tours free city map • accomodation

St. Andrew‘s Church City tours C-2, Andriivs‘kyi uzviz 23, MKontraktova Ploscha. Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka The church is temporary We’d like to present some of our tours: 30/39, suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) closed for renavation but it re- 44 227 77 78/(+380) 44 207 12 55/(+380) 99 550 ally worth to be seen. Famous 00 00, [email protected], www.primetour.ua. Prime Italian architect Bartolomeo Excursion Bureau provides all kind of travel arrangements. Rastrelli was the mastermind (City tours, sightseeing in Kyiv and week-end outings. More behind this attractive Baroque than 25 guided excursions. Bureau specialising in country church that greets the throngs cultural and nature excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. at the top of Andriivs‘kyi uzviz. License AГ #580812 on 31.08.2007 Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Built in 1754, it‘s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has managed to avoid serious damage H-3, Gor’koho 25V, ML’va Tolstoho, Albatros Travel or reconstruction. The elegant silhouette of its one large dome tel. (+380) 44 495 56 70, [email protected], www. and five lesser cupolas are easily visible from Podil and beyond. Sightseeing tour albatros.travel. AriadnaT provides a range of daily city Apostle Andrew, who was the first Christian to preach the gospel tours in English: city bus tours, night bus tours, walking tours in Kyivan Rus, was said to have erected a cross on this very site. “7 Wonders of Kyiv” around Kyiv and to Pyrohovo Folk Architecture Museum. It was the wish of Peter the Great‘s religiously-minded daughter, QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. The most essential Kyiv Elizabeth, after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It Horlytsia H-5, Panasa Liubchenko 5, office 107, must be said that compared to the beautiful exterior, the interior has to oer MLybidska, tel. (+380) 44 528 53 52 (working hours)/ is rather disappointing - too much loud red and gold colours and (+380) 97 886 46 44 (out of working hours), office@ really not much to see. Console yourself with a stroll around the horlytsia.com, www.horlytsia.com. Horlytsia invites all church‘s perimeter, a walk which the famous Ukrainian writer guest of Ukraine to discover unforgettable beauty of Kyiv Gogol also enjoyed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Kyiv by Night city and other hot-spot places around the country. Exciting St. Michael‘s Golden- sightseeing tours, interesting excursions, culinary trips, Domed Cathedral C-3, The unique beauty of the city all kinds of travel services, all at very competitive prices. Mykhailivs‘ka ploscha, QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, Free Tours tel. (+380) 66 861 85 58/(+380) 63 tel. (+380) 44 279 22 48. 950 98 85, [email protected], www.freetours. St. Michael‘s Cathedral is kiev.ua. Free walking tours around the city centre start located opposite St. Sophia‘s every day at 12:00 and 16:00. Meeting point is near the Cathedral. The original, built Central Post Office on Maidan Nezalezhnosti. by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, was destroyed by the Soviet Open-air museums Mysterious Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, tour@ regime in the 1930s for hav- Tours to Ukrainian history interesniy.kiev.ua, www.mysteriouskiev.com. ing “no historical value.” The Mysterious Kyiv provides exclusive tours to Secret Kyiv reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to river, tours to Chernobyl Zone, Segway tours. Excursions a cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient in your language. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. and newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin‘s inhu- NSC “Olimpiyskiy” Tours mane policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds. A-6, Velyka Vasylkivs- This is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): ka 55, Olimpiyska, A famine orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an at- UNESCO sights tel. (+380) 44 590 66 tempt to squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians Tours to the jewels of Kyiv 96/590 66 94/(+380) perished from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are the 67 323 40 49, excur- reconstructed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill sion@nsc-olimpiyskiy. and St. Mephodius. Don’t miss the entrance to the bell tower com.ua. Take a tour round and listen to the bells ring overlooking Mykhailivska Square the historical stadium, and surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily which hosted the recent at 08:00 and 17:00, and on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00. Euro 2012 football cham- St. Sophia‘s Cathe- pionship. NSC Olimpiyskiy dral B-3, Volodymyrs‘ka Tour to Chernobyl provides sightseeing tours, Prestige Tours, School Tours, 24, MZoloti Vorota, tel. and Fan Tours. Take a tour and have a look behind the (+380) 44 279 22 56. A trip to the abandoned scenes of the largest stadium in Ukraine. Even for those Kyiv‘s oldest standing church, town Prypiat who cannot discern forward from goalkeeper, the tour will St. Sophia‘s was built in 11th be really exciting, informative and interactive. The tours Century by Prince Yaroslav are conducted Wed, Fri, and Sat (11:00, 13:00, 15:00, the Wise, who incidentally 17:00), and on Sun (11:00, 13:00, 15:00). was laid to rest inside. He Open Kiev C-6, Klovskiy Uzviz 3, MArsenalna, commissioned the project to For more we invite you to our tourist office: tel. (+380) 44 227 28 63, www.openkiev.com.ua. commemorate the site of a Open Kiev provides Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus victory of Kyivan Rus over the tours. The first circle of the tour starts at 11:00 from the Pechenegs (Asian nomadic tribes) and to glorify Christianity. It entrance to Kyievo-Pechers’ka Lavra (Lavrska 16). You was named after the famous St. Sophia‘s Cathedral in Constan- can catch a bus on one of 25 stops around Kyiv, then tinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined Yaroslav‘s Prime Excursion Bureau take off at any of them, have a stroll and catch the bus Palace and became a holy place of worship for Kyivites as well again. Commentaries available in English and Russian. as a political and cultural centre. Today the entire complex is 30/39 Shchekavytska Street, office 4 +380 99 55 00000 / +380 44 207 12 44 QTickets 200Hr, kids 150Hr, under 7 for free. protected by Ukraine, and also receives support from UNESCO. Podil [email protected] The 18th century refectory works as a museum and contains Kyiv 04071 www.primetour.ua Ukraine www.facebook.com/primetour Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com tourist information • travel • tours free Whatcity map to• accomodation see 41

We’d like to present some of our tours:

License AГ #580812 on 31.08.2007

Sightseeing tour “7 Wonders of Kyiv” The most essential Kyiv has to oer

Kyiv by Night The unique beauty of the city

Open-air museums Tours to Ukrainian history

UNESCO sights Tours to the jewels of Kyiv

Tour to Chernobyl A trip to the abandoned town Prypiat

For more we invite you to our tourist office:

Prime Excursion Bureau 30/39 Shchekavytska Street, office 4 +380 99 55 00000 / +380 44 207 12 44 Podil [email protected] Kyiv 04071 www.primetour.ua Ukraine www.facebook.com/primetour kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 42 What to see What to see

archaeological artefacts and architectural displays, such as Chernobyl models depicting Kyiv as it looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. It costs a meagre 3Hr to enter the grounds. To enter the cathedral itself, purchase tickets from the kiosk around the corner from the bell tower entrance. As you exit don‘t forget to pose for the postcard-perfect picture with Cossack leader Bohdan Khmelnyts‘kyi on his horse against the backdrop of St. Michael‘s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided tours in English are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Hr for all exhibits for adults, 20Hr for children and students. Entrance to the Bell Tower costs 10Hr/6Hr. Entrance to the Catherdral’s area costs 3Hr. St. Volodymyr‘s Cathe- dral A-4, T.Shevchenka bul‘v. 20, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 53 85. As the main church of Ukrain- ian Orthodox denomination St Volodymyr’s Cathedral is always full of people, how- ever there is still complete silence and enough space for every visitor. The Cathe- It’s not every trip abroad you have the chance to visit dral is named after Prince the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, is it? The Volodymyr, who was the ruler of Kyivan Rus in 10th century. Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is only about a two-hour After his baptising in 988 the whole country was converted ride north of Kyiv. Travel agencies offer a day trip to the to Christianity. The church was built from 1862-1882 in a so region, wisely realising that the market for overnight stays called Russian pseudo-Byzantine style. The frescos inside were is not great. You can actually enter the contaminated zone, made by famous Russian, Ukrainian and Polish artists, such where you’ll be joined by your English-speaking guide, who as Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko and Svedomsky. will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance). QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. Services are held daily at 08:00 and You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00. Free admission. some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which Central Synagogue of 47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and Kyiv A-5, Shota Rustaveli have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding 13, MPalats Sportu, tel. villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields (+380) 44 235 00 69. The filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used Central Synagogue was built in in the cleanup is optional. And in case you’re wonder- 1898 by eminent Kyiv philan- ing, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of thropist Lazar Brodsky. This radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to striking architectural monu- be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy ment served as a Jewish re- your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National ligious centre for nearly thirty Museum of Chernobyl. years until it was seized by Museum of Chernobyl (Muzey Chornobylyu) the Soviet Union in 1926. For D-1, Khorevyi lane 1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. a short time it hosted a handicraft club, after which it was turned (+380) 44 417 54 27. This museum does an excellent into a doll theatre. During the Nazi occupation, Germans used the job of actually making you feel like you are at the site of synagogue as a stable for Wermacht horses. The building was the infamous nuclear accident. Road signs from towns returned to the Jewish community after the fall of the Soviet Union. and villages near Chernobyl greet you as you ascend the Despite the serious damage that resulted from 70 years of neglect, stairs, and as you descend the signs are crossed out to the hall was immediately opened to parishioners. Today a number signify your departure. It’s usually rather empty, but then of Jewish educational, religious and cultural programs are held again so is the contamination zone. A few exhibits could be here. The Museum of Jewish Heritage is also housed within and a bit scary for kids, such as life-sized costumes with gas displays ancient books, candelabras, Menorahs and bas-reliefs. masks and pictures of deformed animals. Audio guides The National Bank of are available in four languages (English, German, Ukrainian Ukraine C-5, Instytuts’ka and Russian).Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. 9, MKhreschatyk. The Closed Sun. Admission: 10Hr, children 3Hr. building of the Ukrainian National Bank is over 100 Chernobyl Tours years old. It was built in early Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, Renaissance style and has suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 survived revolution and two 77 78/207 12 55/0 99 550 00 00, info@primetour. world wars. While renova- ua, www.primetour.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun tion and restoration through 10:00 - 18:00 the century have preserved much of he building’s fea- Mysterious Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, tour@ tures, however, some have alas been lost. During the last interesniy.kiev.ua, www.mysteriouskiev.com. period of renovation the aroma of roses - which emanated from QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. the garden in the interior courtyard and was delivered to the rest of the building via a special ventilation system - was lost. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 43

Museums Bulgakov Museum C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13, MKon- traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 31 88/(+380) 67 493 45 25. The celebrated Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916 and again from 1918- 1919. It was here that he wrote the novel The White Guard and the play Days of Turbins. The old Bulgakov family home is now home to the Bulgakov Museum, which displays the author’s personal things and family photos. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 30Hr. Excursion (up to 15 persons) - 100Hr. Cossack’s Settlement Mamajeva Sloboda E-3, Dontsia 2, tel. (+380) 44 361 98 48/(+380) 063 782 78 31 (excursions department), www.mamajeva-sloboda. ua. In the middle of XVII century French engineer and cartog- rapher Guillaume Le Vasseur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est Terra Cosacorum” (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost 400 years after in seven kilometres from the main street of Ukraine’s capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda Cossacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 100Hr. Excursions in English, German, French, Italian and Spanish are available, but must be arranged in advance. For 10 people and more ecxursion costs 130 Hr. FC Dynamo Kyiv museum at NSC Olimpiyskiy A-6, Velyka Vasylkivska 55, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 597 00 15/(+380) 44 597 00 16, www.fcdynamo. kiev.ua. The museum was founded on 14 April, 2012. The exposition includes many FC Dynamo Kyiv trophies from over 85 years of football history, photo archives and some very unique trophies. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. third floors of the Museum). The exposition is to be changed Ivan Honchar’s Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk every two years. There is a functioning library in the Museum; Art J-4, Ivana Mazepy 29, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 theoretically-practical activities take place in a lecture hall: 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 54 19, www.honchar.org.ua. master-classes, lections, seminars, round-table discussions, The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based conferences with invited Ukrainian and foreign art-scholars, on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the artists and gallerists. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who Admission 20Hr, for students 10Hr. manifested interest in his collection were registered with the KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17- Museum of Russian Art A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, 20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The centre piece of MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 18, www.kmrm. Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero com.ua/eng. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one “Mamai Cossack” is especially popular. Also impressive is the of the largest collections of Russian art is housed here. The elaborate collection of clothes from the 18-19th centuries building belonged to the upper-class Tereschenko family and (2500 samples) as well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and dishes, crockery and zoomorphic ceramic toys). QOpen nationalised by the Soviets along with the Tereschenkos’ 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 15Hr, 3Hr for children. holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s exhibits when it was opened in 1922. The most prized displays are a collec- Museum A-6, Hospital’na 24A, MPalats tion of exceptional Russian icons dating back to the late 13th Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 01 46. This part of the city’s century. The museum features artwork from many famous was built in 1844. Arguably, this structure’s history Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel and N. Rerikh, has more do with defenseless people rather than defending as well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. Kids should people. It was here that supporters of the Tsar carried out ex- be kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if little people ecutions of political prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish get too close to exhibits. QOpen , Tue, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, rebellion, in the 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission participants in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the 30Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children. English tours 250Hr. same fate. Also during this time, ammunition and weapons were stored in this semi-underground fortress with solid brick and Museum of the Great Patriotic War J-4, Lavrs’ka stone walls. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed 24, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 285 94 52, www. Mon. Admission 14Hr. warmuseum.kiev.ua. This World War II memorial complex, which opened in 1981, includes a museum with 18 different Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collec- galleries, an eternal flame, plaques honouring particularly tion D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, MKontraktova Ploscha, heroic Soviet cities and an outdoor display containing military tel. (+380) 44 463 76 69, www.modern-museum.org. planes and other equipment from various wars. The centre- ua. Sufficient room (about 3.5 thousand square metres) piece of it all is of course the massive titanium statue of a enabled the creation of the first independent exposition of the woman, 62m tall to be exact, grasping a 12-ton sword and best works in the collection (it is located on the second and a shield. Honouring Soviet defenders during World War II, kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 44 What to see What to see

its Socialist Realism style is an interesting contrast to the Pyrohovo nearby ancient golden domes of Pechers’ka Lavra. If you’re just slightly worried about the ‘Mother of the Motherland’ be- ing a tad too top-heavy, you’re not the only one. There have been scattered reports that the whole structure was not build very soundly and is danger of falling over, but so far so good. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, 3Hr for students. 36 m view point - 50Hr, 91m view point - 200Hr. National Art Museum C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, MMaidan Nezalezhosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57, www. namu.kiev.ua. Built in the late 19th century in the style of a Greek temple with a six-column portico designed by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi and Boytsov, valuable collections Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo, largely unknown to Western visitors are contained in the mu- marshrutkas #3 and 156 from MLybids‘ka, tel. (+380) seum’s 21 galleries. Pieces include Ukrainian icons, paintings, 44 526 55 42. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say and sculptures from the 14th century through the early 20th “Let‘s go to the 16th century Carpathians” and then find century. Works of revered artist and poet Taras Shevchenko, yourself there in a matter of minutes. No…we‘re not offer- M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are some of the ing you a ride in Doc Brown‘s Delorean time machine. It‘s highlights of the museum. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Sun 10:00 - Pyrohovo – a picturesque open-air museum of old Ukrainian 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. lifestyle and folk culture. Admission 20Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children. The museum is divided into areas representing different re- National History Museum C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2, gions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or wooden MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 24. Located shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate an authentic village atmosphere. Everything is meant to bring you back to on a bluff above Andriivs’kyi uzviz, this museum carries the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries. At Pyrohovo you will forth on a wide range of topics concerning Ukraine’s his- find wooden churches, windmills, and even a school building tory from prehistoric times up to the present day. There are typical of rural areas from recent centuries. Different kinds of extensive collections of old books, coins and bills, works of structures (water-mills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, grana- art and archaelogical and ethnographical findings. Behind ries “komora”, threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, the museum is a path that leads to a wonderful view from apiaries, hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story ’s highest point overlooking the lower town of Podil. of how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at QOpen 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Wed. Admission 24Hr, 12Hr the museum seems very authentic, that‘s because it really for students and children. is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were moved The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of Arts here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15-17, ML’va Tolstoho, tel./fax From the main entrance, the road leads you across a large (+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua. wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with the Church The house was owned by a famous collector of art and ben- of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday (Cherkassy region, efactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and his wife Varvara 1742), the small Church of the Archangel Michael (1601), and (1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their private collection, a unique collection of windmills “vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, a museum was opened in this house. For a long period of time you will come to the Podillia sector with the Church of Saint it was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern Nicholas and a bell tower from the beginning of the 19th Art. Now its initial name has been given back. The embellish- century, brought here from the Husiatyn area. At the centre ments of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance of the museum‘s territory the Poltavschyna and Slobozhan- masters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s schyna complex is arranged. A little farther on, visitors can see the Polissye sector dominated by the unique hip-roof holdings of North European countries. The exposition of Span- Voskresens‘ka Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). ish art includes two true gems from the XVII century - “Portrait The exposition of village huts (khatas) here is unique for their of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with age (1587 to 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the Chocolate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Carpathian sector features scattered small farms, with the Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20-30Hr, 10Hr for students. English bell tower of the ancient Pokrovs‘ka Church rising above. tours 250Hr by appointment (group of 10-25 people). But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find The National Museum “Memorial in Commemora- stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ce- tion of Famines’ Victims in Ukraine” C-6, Lavrs’ka, ramics, household and farming equipment, and of course tel. (+380) 44 254 45 11, www.memorialgolodomors.org. the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and During the whole existence of the Soviet Union regime Ukrainian was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping. people endured horrible tragedies - famines of 1921-1922, Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with 1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions of Ukrainian’s plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of 20th century for afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around Ukraine was an artificially engineered by Stalin’s regime Famine faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride. of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 000 people died. Museum And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church is dedicated to the victims of these awful tragedies. Excursions service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum‘s beautiful are held every hour from 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul. Mon. Admission 5Hr. Excursion in English 100r. Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and September, to mark the beginning and the end of the sea- The C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 2B, son. But don‘t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 03 98, festivals and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole onestreet.kiev.ua/about-museum-eng/. This fascinat- season. Main national and religious holidays are celebrated ing little museum near the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells here according to folk traditions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. the rich history of this important street through the years. Admission 30Hr. English-speaking guides available. Special attention is paid to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the turn of the 20th century. QOpen Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 45

St Sophia Cathedral Mosaics & Frescos

12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr. English guided tours 150Hr. For football fans The Pharmacy Museum (Apteka-muzey) D-2, H-1, Dynamo Stadium C-4/5, M.Hrushevskoho 3, Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 09. (+380) 44 425 24 37. You may be wondering just how much After passing through the white columns you’ll come to a enjoyment can be had out of a museum whose sole subject monument honouring the life of Valeriy Lobanovs’kyi, Dy- is the history of pharmaceuticals, but when you think of the namo’s famous coach who died in May 2002. Lobanovs’kyi vital role drugs play in the lives of the capitals legions of cold won countless Soviet leagues and cups first as a player and sufferers it becomes clear that this cosy little museum is a then as coach, not to his mention his team’s two European must of social history. The building is in great condition and Cup-Winners Cup triumphs and a string of Ukrainian titles. dates back to 1728. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15Hr, It’s ironic that he can now only be seen sitting still on a 10Hr for children. bench, because his habit was always to rock back and The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine (Muzey duk- forth between games. An even more poignant memorial hovnykh skarbiv Ukrainy) C-3, H-2, Desiatynna 12, is located closer to the stadium and to the left: depicted in MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 83 08. This museum stern granite are the four Dynamo players who were killed is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In bright spacious by occupying Nazis during WWII. Contrary to Soviet myth halls of museum more than 300 first class works of Ukrain- and many published materials, these players were not shot ian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented from in their uniforms immediately after defeating a German side almost all regions from West to East of Ukraine and more than in a so-called ‘Death Match’. However, their team Start (con- 100 iconograthical images and themes. The museum has sisting of players from Dynamo and other Soviet clubs) did also the collection of the works of the world-known Ukrainian defeat a team of German soldiers called Flakelf in August painter Maria Prymachenko. 50 of her best works of naive art 1942 - in fact they did it twice in 72 hours by scores of 5-1 are presented at the museum. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed and 5-3. Only weeks later were N.Korotkykh, N.Trusevich, Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children and students 5Hr. A.Klimenko and I.Kuzmenko arrested. Korotkykh, a NKVD (the precursor to the KGB) agent, was tortured and soon Toys museum (Muzey ihrashok) C-6, Klovs’kyi uzviz died, while the other three were executed in Febraury 8, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 253 54 00. This museum 1943 at the Syrets death camp. Regardless, the less- is located on the ground floor of the State Centre of the out romanticized reality shouldn’t take away from the players’ of School Education. The first hall has collections of hand heroism, embodied when they ignored orders and refused made dolls from a variety of fairy tales; the second hall has to give a Nazi salute prior to their last game. authentic Ukrainian dolls; and the third one presents Ukrain- ian history through the dolls’ history. The oldest dolls in the NSC Olimpiyskiy A-6, Velyka Vasylkivska 55, collection were made in the 1930s; the youngest were made MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 590 66 96, excur- just recently. Do not miss the first Ukrainian transformer [email protected]. This is a multifunctional among the collection of 10,000 toys. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, sport arena which holds sport, cultural, business, and Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10Hr, 5Hr for many other events. It is the prime venue in Ukraine and children,students. PT the 8th largest football stadium in the world with a total capacity of 83,450. The stadium was founded in 1923 Water Information Centre D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1C, and named after Lev Trotsky. During its almost 90 years MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 33, history the stadium has been renamed 10 times. The www.aqua-kiev.info. Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi last reconstruction works lasted over 3 years and gave Park (above European Square and The Philharmonic) will the stadium its modern and incredible appearance. The notice the two towers rising above the tree line. They host official opening took place on 11 October, 2011. In June a museum of water, which contains information on water re- 2012 the Stadium hosted matches of the European sources: natural water circulation, potable water purification, Football championship including the final game between new technologies and water’s chemical components. Enter- Spain and Italy on 1 July, 2012. Apart from sport events, ing the centre you descend in an elevator to a depth of 20 NSC Olimpiyskiy provides conference & banqueting facili- meters and are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admission ties, catering, corporate & wedding photo shoot services. adults 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Since 2012 is a home stadium for Dynamo Kyiv FC. Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25Hr, 20Hr children and students. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 46 What to see

Lavra Lavra Museums & Exhibitions Museum of Historical Valuables J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96. It is sure that the Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado would be happpy to have such a collection of Scythian gold as this museum. The gem of the collection is the so-called Pectoral, Scythian queen’s neck adornment from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4kg Pectoral was made of pure gold by a master craft- man of the time. Despite its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyiv Rus, West-European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewelers of the past and present can all be found here. QOpen 10:00 - Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-3/4, Ivana Mazepy 21, 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 30Hr, children 15Hr. MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra. State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema kiev.ua. The monastery which made Kyiv the “Rome” of Arts of Ukraine J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, Orthodox Christianity and received pilgrims from all over tel. (+380) 44 280 18 34. The museum was created in Europe continues to attract droves of visitors today. Its 1923. Here we can see the so-called ‘vertep’ (the Ukrainian territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and puppet theatre of the 18th century), playbills and pictures an underground cave system but also some of Kyiv’s most of the plays of different Ukrainian theatre troupes and the interesting museums. personal effects of famous artists and musicians. QOpen First about the name - the Ukrainian ’pechera’ means ’cave’, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr, children and while ’Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest monastery. students 7Hr. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, the Lavra State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-3, was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion Lavrska 5 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 36 throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and were 93, www.mundm.kiev.ua. The original art of the Ukrainian buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere enabled people is widely represented here: icons, decorated eggs, em- their bodies to mummify naturally. This apparent miracle broidery, clothing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’ displays devoted to the work of the famous artists Kateryna bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day, a Bilokur and Mariya Pryimachenko. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. fact you can see yourself by descending into the caves with a Closed Tue. Admission 20Hr, children and students 3-5Hr. candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those monks so humble that they only allowed their feet to be exposed. Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing Women are required to wear scarves, which are provided if J-3 Lavrska 9, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 22 10. you don’t have your own. English tours can be arranged at The museum is located in the space formerly occupied by the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside the entrance. the Lavra typography, which was built in the 18th century. The Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal The collection includes manuscript volumes from the times point of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for of Kyivan Rus, the first Ukrainian printed editions of the Lviv icon painting and the creation of mosaics served many ’Apostle’ (1574) by Ivan Fedorov (Ukraine’s first printer), the Kyiv churches, and a scriptorium oversaw translating of ’Ostroh Bible’ as well as fine examples of old Ukrainian book foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history illustrations and many other rare exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr, children and students 5Hr. historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadrystyi J-3, site of Yuri Dolgorukiy, the founder of Moscow, inside the Ivana Mazepy 15A(Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) Church of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th-century 44 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of wonder bell tower, the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. is presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. The Following years of Communist rule, the government has recently exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen only returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. The monastery under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally unique is once again operational in the form of Kyiv Theological Semi- and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, Honorary nary and Academy. There are also many museums on the ter- Master of Ukrainian . His creative art inspired the crea- ritory, the best of which are listed below.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. tion of a new world - “microminiature”. QOpen 9:30 - 13:30, Admission for foreigner: adults 50Hr, children 25Hr. 14:30 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 20Hr, children 10Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Bukovel ski resort 47

Ski slopes Bukovel’s base elevation is nearly 900m above sea level, and the highest ski lift rises to 1372m, making it the second highest ski resort in Ukraine. All categories of slope difficulty are available. There is a very long gradual slope that is perfect for beginners, a couple of short tows for children and “super- beginners”, all levels of intermediate runs and several black diamond runs for experts and the idiotic brave. Night skiing is available from 17:00 - 20:00; however, only one upper intermediate slope is currently equipped with lights. For more information check out the trail map at bukovel.com/en/map. Blue indicates beginner slopes, red are intermediate and black are advanced. Located in the Ivano-Frankivs’k region, 30km west of Yarem- che Bukovel is Ukraine’s largest ski resort. With high-speed chair lifts, meticulously groomed slopes, snow-making ma- Ski rental chines and ubiquitous security personnel, it is also Ukraine’s Five rental shops are at your service and are located near first European-class resort. Indeed, it’s rather unusual to see lower lifts No. 1, 2, 5 and 7. These centres are also equipped this degree of organisation in Ukraine. Bukovel has been with storage rooms, lockers, showers, bathrooms and ski- carefully planned to make skiing enjoyable and convenient - service centres (open 08:45 - 17:00). All skis are relatively queues longer than five minutes are rare. new, in excellent condition and rent from 80-260Hr. Snow- This mountain is booming! Over the next few seasons Bukovel board sets go for 80-140Hr. As collateral you must leave plans to have 278km of trails and 35 lifts, which would make a passport, driver’s license or a deposit of 2500-9000Hr. it one of the 20 largest ski resorts in the world. At the start Snowmobiles are also available for rent. of this season, 16 lifts and 50km of runs were available. Check out their website for more information including cur- rent snow conditions. Lift passes Prices at Bukovel are considerably higher than elsewhere in Ukraine. One lift ride costs 35-45Hr. Passes can be bought Getting there for 3 hours, full-day, several days or the entire season. Full-day From Kyiv and Lviv, the trains can take you to Ivano-Frankivsk. passes (good for all lifts) cost 336-396Hr. The popular 5 days From Ivano-Frankivs’k you can go by taxi, bus or marshrutka ride pass costs 1132Hr and 1524Hr for the holiday season. (110km). If you drive (not recommended), it’s best to travel Almost all of the lifts are chair lifts and a few are tows. Lift via Ivano-Frankivs’k. Then proceed through the towns of passes can be purchased in several places around the base Nadvirna and Yaremche, then through the villages of Myku- of the mountain. lychyn, Tatariv and Polyanytsya. Follow the signs to Bukovel. Free parking is available. More details on www.bukovel.com/en

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 48 Sport & Leisure Shopping

Ski slopes in Kyiv Billiards & Bowling Chameleon G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, “Ukraine” Shopping Mall, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 17 17, www. club300.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour. Jumbo O-4, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 84-216Hr per hour. Machaon L-2, Luhova 12, Karavan Shopping Mall, MObolon’, tel. (+380) 44 206 43 33, www.club300. com.ua. Q 78-198Hr per hour. Maximum Dekabrystiv 12/37, MKharkivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 562 62 62. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. POTALEGB Mayak N-5, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 17/1, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 464 69 01. Admission 60-70Hr. QOpen 24hrs. Protasiv Yar G-4, Protasiv Yar 39, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 67 335 12 07, www.gora.com.ua. Full skiing equipment rentals start at 80Hr for two hours Skating rings (90Hr on weekend). Each next hour - 30Hr. The prices for Bil’shovyk E-2, Het’mana 6 (Bil’shovyk shopping mall), instruction is 150Hr per hour. Snowboard rentals start at MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 50. QOpen 08:00- 90Hr. One lift-ride cost 4-12Hr. Entrance costs 8-15 Hr. 03:00. Admission 30-50Hr for adults, 20-30Hr for children. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30, Mon 14:00 - 22:30. Night skiing Ice Dream N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. (between Obolon’ on Saturday 22:00 - 04:00. and Minska Metro stations), MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 Vyshgora Vatutina 102, Vyshgorod, MHeroiv Dnipra 428 36 11. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for (take bus #1 to the last stop near Vyshgora), tel. adults, 20-35Hr for children. (+380) 44 303 99 05/(+380) 99 280 55 05, www. Karavan L-2, Luhova 9 (Karavan Shopping mall), vishgora.com.ua. Full skiing equipment rentals start at MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 461 82 06. QOpen 08:15 - 130Hr for a day (190Hr on weekend). One lift-ride cost 6Hr, 23:15. Admission and 45 minutes of skating costs 30-50Hr 8Hr on weekends and 10Hr on holidays. Ski-passes avail- for adults, 10-25Hr for children. able for 2hours - 50/65/80Hr, 6 hours - 70/90/110Hr and for a day - 100/120/150Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Skating Ring on Maydan C-4,Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Night skiing 23:00 - 04:00 - 120/150Hr. MMaidan Nezalezhnosti QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. 11:00 - 23:00 on weekends. Opening is scheduled on 24 December.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Shopping 49

Shopping malls Bil‘shovyk E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, MShuliavs‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 54, www.trc-bolshevik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Dream Town N-2, Obolonskiy prosp. 1B, MObolon, Min- ska, tel. (+380) 44 428 36 11, www.dreamtown.kiev.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Globus C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Underground), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 590 18 93/590 18 96, www.globus.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Mandarin Plaza B-5, H-3, Baseina 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 50, fax (+380) 44 230 95 91, www.mandarin.kiev.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Metrograd B-5, Bessarabs‘ka ploscha (underground), MPloscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 247 56 65, www. metrograd.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

new Ocean Plaza H-5, Gorkoho 176, MLybidska, tel. (+380) 44 537 23 64, www.oceanplaza.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Sky Mall E-2, Henerala Vatutina 2T, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 371 41 30, www.skymall.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Books ChitayGorod B-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 3B, MTeatralna, tel. (+380) 44 279 64 38. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Knyharnia YE B-3, Lysenka 3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 88 54. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Litera H-3, L’va Tolstoho 11/61, MPloscha Lva Tol- stoho, tel. (+380) 44 234 81 97. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Naukova Dumka C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 06 96. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Siayvo A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 6, MPloscha Lva Tol- stoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 43 66. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00 Fashion Atelier 1 A-4, Shevchenka bul’v. 10 (entrance from the yard), tel. (+380) 44 288 05 50/599 31 80, art@atelier1. com.ua. The only truly concept store in Ukraine based at the former bunker right at the heart of Kyiv. Atelier 1’s selling the most conceptual collections of menswear and womenswear from Japan and France (Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Peachoo and Krejberg, Comme des Garcons Parfums. Acces- sories, Bags) and Ukrainian Designers international collections. The Shop is divided into zones: collection rooms, Boiler room, Parfum Vault and Strong room. New format of Canteen is avail- able. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. PA6LW Food & Drink Billa B-5, Bessarabska pl. 2, MPloscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 82. Q Open 24hrs. Furshet B-5, Baseina 4, MPloscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 21. QOpen 24hrs. Also at: G-1, Yaroslavs’ka 57, tel. 417 03 50. Good Wine B-5, Mechnikova 9, MKlovska, tel. (+380) 44 390 79 60, www.goodwine.ua. Also at Heroiv Stal- inhrada 16B.Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. 24hrs on Fri.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 50 Lifestyle directory Lifestyle directory

24-hours Pharmacies Dentists Apteka #24 A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 10, ML’va Tol- Avanto D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 22/17A, MKontraktova stoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 43 08. Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 37 97, www.avanto.com. Bosm Pharm A-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 17, MUniver- ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. sytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 50 17. MedLife Elite F-1, Yakira 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. Falbi D-1, Mezhyhirs’ka 3/7, MKontraktova Ploscha, (+380) 44 238 66 26. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. tel. (+380) 44 425 00 40. MedLife Lux O-2, Heroiv Stalingrada 20, MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 412 21 23. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Beauty salons Prisma D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, Dessange B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. tel. (+380) 44 425 14 04. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (+380) 44 569 60 00, www.dessange.com.ua. Also at C-3, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. (+380) 44 537 63 00. QOpen Dry cleaners & laundries 08:00 - 21:00. A Alberti Angelo A-5, Lva Tolstoho 6, MLva Tolstoho, Diva Health & Beauty Centre A-3, B.Khmel’nytskoho tel. (+380) 50 702 59 66. Also at: Basseina 3, tel. (+380) 53/53, Opera Hotel, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 492 67 235 87 92; B.Khmelnytskoho 68, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 74 92, www.opera-hotel.com. 39. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. SPA Naturel C-3, Tarasovoi 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv UnMomento B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 16B, MZoloti Vorota, Hotel, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 tel. (+380) 44 238 21 93. Also at: C-3, Desiatynna 13, 40, www.kiev.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. tel. (+380) 67 657 07 11; A-5, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. (+380) 44 234 21 93; A-3, I.Franko 24A, tel. (+380) 44 234 61 05. Clinics & Hospitals QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. American Medical Centre F-1, Berdychivs’ka 1, Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella I-5, Mala Zhytomyrs’ka MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 76 00, www. 5, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 20 amcenters.com. Individual, family and corporate medical 96. Also at: D-1, Schekavyts’ka 9A, tel. (+380) 44 417 plans. Children’s health. Women health. 24hrs emergency 14 33; A-1, Turgenivs’ka 80, tel. (+380) 44 486 88 91. visit, hospitalisation or evacuation abroad. QOpen 24hrs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. CMD G-1, Pymonenka 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 12 23, www.cmd.kiev.ua. A full spectrum of labo- Fitness clubs ratory tests with results within 24hrs. Urologist, andrologist, M sexopathologist. Gynaecologist, gynaecologist-endocrinol- 5th Element Club Elektrykiv 29A, Kontraktova ogist. Molecular. diagnostics of all sexually transmitted and Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 351 77 33, www.5el.com.ua/ TORCh infections. Complex diagnostic programmes (therapy, eng/. Q Open Mon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00. cardiology, gastroenterology, immunology and allergology). Aquarium Fitness Centre O-1, Heroiv Stalinhrada QOpen 24hrs, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. A 45, MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 22 22. QOpen Dobrobut G-1, Pymonenka 10, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 07:00 - 23:00. (+380) 44 495 28 88/(+380) 44 495 28 88, www. Atlant A-5, Pushkins’ka 42/4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. med.dobrobut.com. Emergency services, consultations (+380) 44 279 85 73. for adults and children, in-patient unit, diagnostics, medical assistance and transportation of patients within Kyiv, Ukraine Club Olympus C-3, Tarasova 5A (Hyatt Regency Kyiv and abroad. Also at Tatars’ka 2E; Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 38; Hotel), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 prosp. Komarova 3, corp. 5. QOpen 24hrs. 40, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 06:00 - 23:30. Laboratory Dr. Roedger I-4, Staronavodnyts’ka 13 Favourite V.I.P. Club C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 6, MMaidan section A, office 48, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 569 Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 38. QOpen 28 28, [email protected]. Offers a full range of laboratory 07:00 - 23:00. analyses. Samples are sent twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will give you a full run-down of your clinical Kodokan C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3, MMaidan Nezalezh- health. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 01 01. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Lifestyle directory Lifestyle directory 51

Opticians Centre of the ophtalmology and aestetic medi- cine AILAS Bazhana prosp. 12A, MOsokorky, tel./ fax (+380) 44 291 01 91, www.ailas.com.ua. Patients are provided with a wide spectrum of solutions, from therapy to laser surgery, to improve their quality of life. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Language courses Echo Eastern Europe J-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 29, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 361 86 50/(+380) 68 707 48 47, www.echoee.com. Russian and Ukrainian. One- to-one and group classes with professional tutors. Flexible approach. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. English language centre I-4, Kutuzova 4A, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 581 19 89, www.elckiev. org. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Monarch International Language Academy Tol- bukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 451 78 39, www. monarchila.kiev.ua. Lessons and courses in Russian, Ukrainian, English, German and French. QOpen 10:00 - More than 20 kinds of massages 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. and SPA treatments Novamova B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14V, office 28, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 12 70/(+380) 44 237 77 50, www.learnrussiankiev.com. One of the top the High-qualied masseurs Russian-language training institutes. NovaMova provides conversational practice, guest speaker lectures, Russian from Bangkok, ailand movie club, field trips and various sightseeing tours QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. PA Relax atmosphere

Massage Discount programs Kinari Oriental SPA A-3, Ivana Franka 40, MUniver- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 53 40/(+380) 93 620 60 and club cards 40, www.kinari-spa.com.ua. Just what Kyiv’s city centre needed: traditional Thai massage and oriental SPA treat- ments. Qualified therapists are on hand to heal both body Gi certicates and soul and help put a bit of calming balance back into your hectic life. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Marriage agencies Marriage by Natali A-6, Hospital‘na 2, office 23, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 34 74/(+380) 44 232 08 03, www.marriagebynatali.com. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Swimming pools Olymp H-4, Dymytrova 10, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 61 49. You’ll pay 60Hr for a 45-minutes swim at Olimp. Regular vistors can go 10 times for 540Hr and save 60 hryvnas. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Yunist J-5, Bastionna 7, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. (+380) 44 285 21 22. Open air swimming pool.QOpen 06:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission 65-75Hr for a 45-minutes swim. Tennis courts Dynamo C-4/5, M. Hrushevskoho 3, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 05 31. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Podil Tennis Courts N-6, Mezhyhirs’ka 56/63A, MTarasa Shevchenko, tel. (+380) 44 451 58 58. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 52 Business directory

Banks The IB World School in Kyiv OTP Bank A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va Tol- stoho, tel. (+380) 800 300 0 50, www.otpbank.com. ua/enb. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Aval C-4, Khreschatyk 16, MMaidan PECHERSK SCHOOL Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 08 71, [email protected], INTERNATIONAL, KYIV www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lunch time 13:00 - 14:00. www.psi.kiev.ua 7a, Victora Zabily Str. SEB Bank A-5, H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 10, ML’va Tol- Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 stoho, tel. (+380) 44 238 67 67, www.seb.ua. QOpen Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. [email protected] UniCredit Bank B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 585 89 85, www.unicredit.com. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Schools Business connections Collège Français Anne de Kiev A-3, Chapaieva American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine H-4, M 21, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 200 19 93, fax Amosova 12, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 490 58 (+380) 44 200 19 97, secretariat-kiev@ecolefr@ 00, fax (+380) 44 490 58 01, www.chamber.ua. com.ua, www.adk.org.ua. Primary and secondary school (3-17 years). French cirriculum. QOpen 08:00 British Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (BUCC) - 17:00. C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 34A, suite 42, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 410 57 20, fax (+380) 44 230 21 51, admin- Pechersk School International Zabily 7A, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 455 95 85, www.psi. strator@bucc. com.ua, www.bucc.com.ua. kiev.ua. Chief Department of Foreign Economic Relations The British International School (Primary) and Investments B-4, Khreschatyk 44, MKhres- Scherbakova 36A, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 chatyk, tel./fax (+380) 44 278 18 71. 20 77, [email protected],ua, www.britishschool. European Business Association (EBA) D-2, kiev.ua. Andriivs’kyi uzviz 1A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. The British International School (Secondary) (+380) 44 496 06 01, fax (+380) 44 496 06 02, office@ Tolbukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 21 eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua. 10, [email protected], www.british- General Direction of Attendance to Foreign Rep- school.kiev.ua. resentatives B-3, Honchara 84, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 230 88 41, www.gdip.com.ua. Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (UCC) B-2, H-2, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 33, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 Accountants & Consulting 272 29 11, fax (+380) 44 272 33 53, www.ucci.org.ua. Accounting Solutions C-6, Instytuts’ka 19B, office 29, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 362 58 00/(+380) 44 581 12 20, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@acsoinua. Exhibition and conference centres com, www.acsoinua.com. Exhibition Centre on the left bank Brovarskyi prosp. Apple Consulting A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 15, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 201 11 56, www. 8, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 495 27 28, fax (+380) www.mvc-expo.com.ua/en. 44 495 27 70, www.applecons.com.ua. KyivExpoPlaza Salyutna 2B, MNivky, tel. (+380) 44 Deloitte & Touche H-3, Zhylians’ka 48-50A, Deloitte 461 99 21, www.expoplaza.kiev.ua. Business centre, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 90 00, fax (+380) 44 490 90 01, www.deloitte.com.ua. Lawyers Grant Thornton F-1, Dehtiarivs’ka 4A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, Gvozdiy & Oberkovych C-5, Instytutska 19B, office tel. (+380) 44 230 47 78, fax (+380) 44 230 48 40, 29, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 20/(+380) www.gtukraine.com. 44 581 12 21, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@golaw. ua, www.golaw.ua. Ernst & Young B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 490 30 00, fax (+380) 44 490 30 30, CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz C-5, Instytutska 19B, www.ey.com/ua. 5th floor, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 503 35 46, fax (+380) 44 503 35 49, www.cms-rrh.com. KPMG C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 490 55 07, fax (+380) 490 55 08, www. kpmg.kiev.ua. PricewaterhouseCoopers G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, M Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 67 77, fax (+380) 44 €1 = 10.36Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.79Hr 490 67 38, www.pwc.com. (29 November 2012 official rates)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Street register 53

Akademika Bohomol’tsia Hertsena F-1 Lyvars’ka L-4 Panasa Myrnoho I-3, J-4 Stadionnyi prov. F/G-3 B/C-6, I-3 Hlazunova I-5 M. Pryimachenko bul’v. Panfilovtsiv J-4 Stara Poliana G-1 Akademika Filatova I-5 Hlibova G-2 I-4/5, J-4 Panfilovtsiv prov. J-4 Starokyivs’ka F-2 Akademika Karpyns’koho E-4 Hlybochyts’ka B/C-1, G/H-1 Maiborody F-1 Parkova doroha D-5/6, I-2, J-2/3 Staronavodnyts’ka I/J-4 Akademika Yanhelia E-2 Hlybochyts’kyi proizd G-1 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4, I-2 Patrisa Lumumby I-4/5 Starovokzal’na G-2/3 Aleia Heroiv Krut J-3 Hoholivs’ka A-1/2, G-2 Makarivs’ka L-5/6 Pavla Pestelia G-2/3 Strilets’ka B-3, H-2 Aliabieva M-5 Honcharna C-2, H-1/2 Maksyma Kryvonosa F-4 Pavlivs’ka G-2 Students’ka G-1 Andriia Holovka F-4/5 Horodnia G-4 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka Pecheniz’ka G-1 Surykova F-3 Andriivs’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Hospital’na A-6, I-3 C-3/4, H-2 Pechers’ka pl. I-4 Suvorova J-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2, H-1 Hospital’nyi prov. A-6, I-3 Malopidval’na B-3/4, H-2 Pechers’kyi uzviz I-3 Symona Petliury G-3 Anri Barbiusa H-4, I-4/5 Hryhoriia Andriuschenka F/G-2 Marka Vovchka L-3 Peremohy pl. G-2 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v Antonova E/F-4 Huchnyi prov. F-4 Marshala Malynovs’koho Peremohy prosp. E/G-2 A-3/5, G-2, H-3 Anyschenka J-3 Husovs’koho I-3/4 M-2, M/N-3, O-2 Perspektyvna I-4 Tarasivs’ka H-3 Arkhitektors’ka F-5 Illi Erenburha G/H-3 Marshala Rybalka F/G-2 Pervomais’koho B-6, I-3 Tatars’ka G-1 Arsenal’na I-4 Illins’ka D-2, H/I-1 Marshala Tymoshenka Petra Dehtiarenka L-1/3 Tel’mana H-4 Arsenal’na pl. J-3 Instytuts’ka C-4/6, I-2/3 M-2, N-1/2 Petra Kryvonosa pl. G-3 Ter’okhina L-5 Artema A-1, B-1/2, G-1, G/H-2 Isaakiana F-2 Martyrosiana E-3/4 Petra Nischyns’koho F-3 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4, H-3 Bahhovutivs’ka F/G-1, L-6 Iskrivs’ka E-3 Mate Zalky O-3/4 Petrivs’ka B-1, H-1 Tolstoho L’va pl. A-5, H-3 Baikova H-5 Ivana Fedorova H-4 Matrosova I-5 Petrivs’ka aleia C/D-4, I-2 Topoleva F-3 Bankova B/C-5, I-2/3 Ivana Franka A/B-3, H-2/3 Mechnykova B-6, I-3 Petrovs’koho E-3 Tovarna I-5 Baseina A/B-5, H/I-3 Ivana Franka pl. B/C-5, I-2 Mekhanizatoriv F/G-4 Pidhirna G-1 Tr’okhsviatytel’s’ka Bastionna J-5 Ivana Honty E-1 Mel’nykova F/G-1 Pidvysots’koho I/J-5 C-3/4, H/I-2 Bekhterevs’kyi prov. A-1,G-1/2 Ivana Klymenka F-4 Mendelieieva I-5 Piters’ka E-3 Travneva G-5 Berdychivs’ka F-1 Ivana Kudri I-4/5 Metalistiv E-2 Platonivs’ka F/G-3 Trukhanivs’ka I/J-1 Bessarabs’ka pl. B-5, H-3 Ivana Mazepy J-3/4 Mezhyhirs’ka D-1/2, H-1, N-6 Pochainyns’ka H/I-1, O-6 Tsytadel’na J-3/4 Bilokur J-5 Iziums’ka H-5 Michurina J-4/5 Podil’s’kyi uzviz L-5/6 Tul’chyns’ka L-5 Bilorus’ka F-1 Kadets’kyi Hai F-5 Mins’ka pl. N-2/3 Pokrovs’ka D-2, H-1 Tul’s’ka pl. N-4 Bohatyrs’ka M-1/4, N-4 Kavkaz’ka F-3/4 Mitskevycha E-3 Pol’ova E-2/3 Turgenevs’ka A-1 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Kerchens’ka E-4 Moldavs’ka G-1 Pol’ovyi prov. E-2 Turivs’ka N/O-6 A-2/4, B-4, G/H-2, H-3 Khoryva D-1, H-1 Molodohvardiis’ka E-4 Poliarna L/M-1 Tvers’ka I-4, H-5 Bohdanivs’ka F-3 Khreschatyk Montazhnykiv G/H-5 Politekhnichna E/F-2 Tvers’kyi tupyk I-4 Bohuslavs’kyi uzviz M-6 B-4/5, C-4, H-3, H/I-2 Moskovs’ka J-3 Politekhnichnyi prov. F-2 Tykha I-5 Borschahivs’ka E/F-2 Khvoiky M-5 Moskovs’ka pl. H-5 Polovets’ka G-1 Tymiriazievs’ka J-5 Borychiv Tik D-2/3, H/I-1 Kikvidze J-5 Moskovs’kyi prosp. L/O-4 Poltavs’ka G-2 Tymofiia Shamryla E-1 Borychiv uzviz D-3, I-1 Kirovohrads’ka G/H-5 Murashka F/G-1 Polzunova G-3 Umans’ka E/F-3 Botkina F-2 Kirovohrads’kyi prov. H-5 Muzeinyi prov. C-4/5, I-2 Poshtova pl. D-3, I-1 Universytets’ka F-4/5, G-5 Bozhenka H-4/5 Klinichna G-5 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho Povitroflots’kyi prosp. Uryts’koho F/G-3 Bozhkiv Yar G-5 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6, I/J-3 C-4/6, D-6, I-2, I/J-3 F-2/4, E-4/5 Ushyns’koho E-3/4 Brats’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Kmytiv Yar G-1 Mykhaila Myshyna E-4 Predslavyns’ka H-4, I-5 Vadyma Het’mana E-2/3 Brest-Lytovs’kyi prov. F-2 Komandarma Kamenieva J-4 Mykhaila Zadniprovs’koho I-4 Profinternu H-5 Vandy Vasylevs’koi F-2 Brians’ka F-4 Konduktors’ka G-4 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3, H-2 Prorizna B-4, H-2 Vasylia Yana H-3 Brovars’kyi prosp. K-2/3 Kontraktova pl. D-2, H-1 Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Protasiv Yar G/H-4 Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka Buslivs’ka J-5 Kopernyka F/G-1, F-2 B-3/4, C-3, H-2 Providnyts’ka G-3/4 B-2, C-3, H-2 Chapaieva A-3, H-2 Kopylivs’ka L-5 Mykoly Amosova G/H-4 Pryozerna O-4 Verbova L-3/4, M-4/5, N-5 Chekhovs’kyi prov. A-2, G/H-2 Korabel’na M-5 Mykoly Hrinchenka H-4/5 Pryrichna O-1 Verkhn’okliuchova E-3 Chervonoarmiis’ka H-3/5, I-5 Korolenkivs’ka H-3/4 Mykoly Kravchenka Pryvitna G-4 Verkhnia J-4 Chervonozorianyi prosp. Kosmonavtiv pl. E-3 F/G-2, G-1 Przheval’s’koho F/G-5 Verkhnii prov. J-4 E/F-4, F/H-5 Kosohirnyi prov. B-1, G-1 Mykoly Ostrovs’koho G-3 Pskovs’ka H-5 Verkhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Chervonyi prov. F/G-5 Kost’ol’na C-4, I-2 Mykoly Pymonenka Puhachova L-6 Viacheslava Chornovola G-2 Ches’ka I-5 Kostia Hordiienka prov. A-1, G-1/2 Puliuia F-5 Vietrova G-3 Chokolivs’kyi E-3/4 B/C-6, I-3 Mykoly Raievs’koho I-4/5 Pushkins’ka A-5, A/C-4, H-2/3 Vikentiia L/M-5 Chornohirs’ka I-5 Kostiantynivs’ka Myl’nyi prov. M/N-6 Pylypa Kozyts’koho F-3 Viktora Yarmoly F-2 Chornomors’ka M/N-5 D-1/2, H-1, N-6 Naberezhne shose Pylypa Orlyka C-5/6, I-3 Vil’shans’ka J-5 Darvina B-5, I-3 Kotsiubyns’koho A-2/3, H-2 D-3/6, I-2, J-2/3, K-4 Pyriatyns’ka J-4 Vil’shans’kyi prov. J-5 Dashavs’ka E-2/3 Koval’s’kyi prov. E-2 Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka Redutna J-4 Vinnyts’ka E-4/5 Dehtiarivs’ka E/F-1 Kovpaka H/I-5 D-3, I-1 Redutnyi prov. J-4 Vokzal’na pl. G-3 Dehtiarna B/C-2, H-1/2 Kozhumiats’ka C-1/2, H-1 Naberezhno-Luhova N/O-6 Riznyts’ka I/J-3 Volhohrads’ka G-4 Delehats’kyi prov. L-6 Koziatyns’ka J-4 Naberezhno-Pechers’ka K-4/5 Rybal’s’ka I/J-3 Volodymyro-Lybids’ka H-4 Desiatynna C-3, H-2 Krasnodons’ka G-3/4 Naddniprians’ke shose K-4/5 Rybna F-5 Volodymyrs’ka Dmytrivs’ka G-2, L-5 Kropyvnyts’koho B-5, I-3 Nahirna L/M-6 Sadova C-5, I-2 A-4, B-3/4, C-3, H-2/3 Dniprovs’kyi uzviz J-3 Kruhlouniversytets’ka B-5, I-3 Nahirnyi prov. L-6 Sahaidachnoho D-2/3, H/I-1 Volodymyrs’kyi Proizd C-3, H-2 Dobrosusids’ka F/G-5 Krutohirna F/G-5 Nakhimova M-5/6 Saksahans’koho G-2, G/H-3 Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz Dobrynyns’ka L/M-3 Kudriashova G-3/4 Narodna G-4/5, F-5 Sant’iaho-de-Chili pl. O-2 C-4, D-3/4, I-2 Dokuchaievs’ka G-4 Kudriavs’kyi uzviz B-1, G-1/2 Narodnoho Opolchennia E-4/5 Saperne Pole I-4/5 Volos’ka D-1/2, H/I-1, O-6 Donets’ka E-4 Kupians’ka G-5 Narodnyi prov. G-4 Schekavyts’ka D-1, H-1 Volyns’ka E-3/4 Dorohozhyts’ka E-1 Kurenivs’ka L-4, M-3/4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-5 Schorsa H/I-4 Volz’ka H-5 Dovnar-Zapol’s’koho F-1/2 Kurs’ka F-3 Nemyrovycha-Danchenka I-4 Schorsa prov. I-4 Vorovs’koho A/B-2, G/H-2 Dovzhenka E-1/2 Kutuzova I/J-4 Nesterova E-1/2 Semena Skliarenka L-4 Vozdvyzhens’ka C-1/2, H-1 Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. Kyrylo-Mefodiivs’ka F-2 Nimans’ka I/J-5 Semenivs’ka G-4/5 Vrubelivs’kyi uzviz L-6 H/J-5, J/K-4 L’va Tolstoho A-4/5, G/H-3 Novokostiantynivs’ka M-5/6 Serhiia Strutyns’koho J-4/5 Vvedens’ka H-1 Druzhby Narodiv pl. N-3 L’vivs’ka pl. B-2, H-2 Novopechers’kyi prov. I-4, H/I-4 Sevastopol’s’ka pl. E-4 Vyborz’ka E-2 Druzhnia G-3/4 Laboratorna H-4 Novovokzal’na G-4 Sholudenka F-2 Yakira F-1 Dubens’ka J-5 Laboratornyi prov. H/I-4 Nyzhn’oyurkivs’ka G/H-1 Shota Rustaveli A-5, H-3 Yams’ka H-4 Dymytrova H-4 Laiosha Havro N-3, O-3/4 Nyzhn’okliuchova E-3 Shovkovychna B/C-5, I-2/3 Yanky Kupaly E-4 Dzerzhyns’koho pl. I-5 Lavrs’kyi prov. J-3 Nyzhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Shuliavs’ka F-2 Yaroslava Halana E-3 Elektrykiv N/O-5 Lebedieva-Kumacha E-3 Obolons’ka H-1, O-6 Shyshkins’kyi prov. L/M-6 Yaroslaviv Val B-2/3, H-2 Elektrykiv prov. N-6, O-5 Leiptsyz’ka J-3/4 Obolons’ka naberezhna O-1/3 Sichnevyi prov. J-3 Yaroslavs’ka D-1, H-1 Emsta E-5 Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. Obolons’kyi prosp. N-1/5 Simii Khokhlovykh E/F-1 Yerevans’ka E/F-3 Esplanadna A-5, H-3 A-6, I-3/4, J-4 Observatorna A/B-2, G/H-2 Skovorody D-2, H/I-1 Yevropeis’ka pl. C-4, I-2 Ezhena Potie E-1 Lesi Ukrainky pl. I-4 Ol’hyns’ka C-5, I-2 Slavy pl. J-3 Yuliusa Fuchyka F-3 Fastivs’ka E-4 Lieskova I-4 Olehivs’ka C-1, H-1 Smilians’ka E-4 Yurkivs’ka H-1, N/O-6 Frometivs’ kyi uzviz H-5 Liniina G/H-4 Olenivs’ka N-6 Smolens’ka E-2 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Frometivs’ka H-5 Litnia I-4 Oleny Telihy E-1, L-4/5 Smyrnova-Lastochkina Zaliznychne shose I-5 Frunze D-1, H-1, L-4/5, M/N-6 Liuterans’ka B-4/5, I-2/3 O. Honchara A-2, B-3, G/H-2 B-2, C-1, H-1/2 Zavods’ka M/N-6 Gor’koho H-3/5, I-5 Lokomotyvna G-3/4 Oranzhereina E-1 Sofiis’ka pl. B/C-3, H-2 Zelenohirs’ka E/F-4 Haidara G-3 Lubens’ka I-5 Ostapa Vyshni I-5 Sofiivs’ka B-3, C-3/4, H-2 Zemlians’kyi prov. J-4 Haisyns’ka F/G-4 Luhova L/M-2 Ostrovs’koho F/G-3 Soliana G-1 Zhylians’ka G-2/3, H-3 Havans’kyi prov. M-5 Lukashevycha F/G-3 Ostrovs’koho prov. F-3 Solomians’ka F/G-4 Zhytn’otorz’ka pl. C-1, H-1 Heroiv Dnipra M-1 Lukianivs’ka C-1, G/H-1 Osvity F-4 Solomians’ka pl. F-3 Zlatopil’s’ka F-4 Heroiv Stalinhrada prosp. Lukianivs’ka pl. G-1 Otto Shmidta G-1 Sotsialistychna E/F-4 Zoi Haidai M-1 O-1/3 Lybids’ka G-3 Ovruts’ka L-6 Spas’ka D-2, H/I-1 Zolotoustivs’ka G-2 Heroiv Velykoi Vitchyznianoi Lyps’ka C-6, I-3 Ozerna F-4 Sportyvna pl. A-5/6, H-3 Zoolohichna E-2, F-1 Viiny pl. J-4 Lysenka A/B-3, H-2 Pan’kivs’ka G/H-3 Stadionna F/G-3 Zvirynets’ka J-5 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2012 - 2013 54 Index

11 Mirrors Design Hotel 22 D*Lux Entertainment 38 Kozats'kiy 25 Restaurant-Club Tolstoy 30 Aeroflot 7 D'Lux Kiev Hostel 27 KPMG 51 RoomMe - web portal of short-term AeroSvit 7 Dnipro 24 Krendel 34 apartment rent 27 Akvarel 13 Docker's ABC 38 Kult RA 29 Route 66 38 Alberti Angelo 49 Deloitte & Touche 51 Kureni 29 Rus 24 Alfavito 20 Dessange 49 Kuvshin 30 Salyut 26 Alitalia - Compagnia Aeree Italiana 7 Diva Health & Beauty Centre 49 Kyiv 14, 25 SEB Bank 51 Ani 30 Dobrobut 49 Kyiv Fortress Museum 43 Senator Apartments City Center 26 Accounting Solutions 51 Dorothy's Pub 36 Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Centre 14 Senator Apartments Executive Court American Chamber of Commerce in Double Coffee 35 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 46 26 Ukraine 51 Dragee Café 35 Laboratory Dr. Roedger 49 Shafran 34 American Medical Centre 49 Dream Hostel 28 Le Cosmopolite 30 Sherborne Guest House 26 Andrew's Descent 39 Dream House Hostel & Bar 28 Litera 52 Shokoladnitsa 35 Apple Consulting 51 Dva Gusya 34 Lufthansa 7 Siayvo 52 Apteka #24 49 Dynamo Stadium 45 Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 5 Silver Bells 13 Aquarium Fitness Centre 49 Echo Eastern Europe 50 Lybid 24 Sixt 6 Arena Entertainment 37 English language centre 50 M17 13 SkyArtCafé 35 Aroma Espresso Bar 35 Ernst & Young 51 Magic Bus Kyiv 28 Slavutych 26 Art Arsenal 12 Europcar 6 Mandarin Plaza 52 Smart café Biblioteсh 35 Art Club 44 37 European Business Association 51 Marilyn 38 Soho-New York Steak & Seafood 32 Atelier 1 52 Exibition of Microminiatures by Marriage by Natali 50 Sorry Babushka 38 Atelier Karas 13 M.Syadrystyi 46 Maysternya 13 SPA Naturel 49 Atlant 49 Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv 21 McDonald‘s 34 St. Andrew's Church 40 Austrian Airlines 7 Falbi 49 MedLife Elite 49 Staro 24 Avanto 49 Favourite V.I.P. Club 49 MedLife Lux 49 State Museum of Theatre, Music and Avis 6 Fazenda Bar 36 Merydian 50 Cinema Arts of Ukraine 46 Babai Pub 36 Federal Express 10 Metrograd 52 State Museum of Ukrainian Bakkara Art-hotel 23 FeelinG 36 Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar 38 Decorative Art 46 Bavarian Beer House 36 Fellini 32 Milennium 38 St. Michael's Golden-Domed BAZ Belgium Art Zone 30 Folk Architecture and Life Museum 44 Mir 26 Cathedral 40 Bil'shovyk 52 Foodtourist 32 Monarch International Language St. Sophia's Cathedral 40 Black Piglet 29 Free Tours 40 Academy 50 Sullivan Room 38 Black Sea 25 French Cultural Centre 14 Multiplex 14 Sunduk 37 Bobber Pub 36 Gagarin 28 Museum of Chernobyl 42 SushiYA 34 Bosm Pharm 49 Gallery 36 13 Museum of Historical Valuables 46 Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella 49 Boutique Hotel Riviera 20 Gallery RA 13 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine SПБ (SPB) Pub 37 British Airways 7 Gambrinus 36 Arts Collection 43 Taras Bulba 30 British Council 14 Gapchinska 13 Museum of Russian Art 43 The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko British Ukrainian Chamber of GastroRock 32 Museum of the Great Patriotic War 43 Museum of Arts 44 Commerce 51 General Direction of Attendance to Mysterious Kyiv 40, 42 The British International School 51 Brucie Collections 13 Foreign Representatives 51 Mystets 13 The Hub Hostel 28 Buddha-bar 32 Globus 52 National Art Museum 44 The National Bank of Ukraine 42 Budget 6 Goethe Institute 14 National History Museum 44 The National Museum "Memorial in Bulgakov Museum 43 Golden Gate 39 National Opera of Ukraine 14 Commemoration of Famines' Victims Butterfly Bilshovyk 14 Golden Gate Irish Pub 36 National Philharmonic 14 in Ukraine" 44 Butterfly Deluxe 14 Goodman Steak House 32 Natsional'nyi 24 The One Street Museum 44 Byblos 37 Gorkiy Pub 36 Naturlih Pub 36 The Pharmacy Museum 45 Café de Paris 32 Grata Apartment Service 27 Naukova Dumka 52 The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine 45 Café Imbir 35 Greguar Apartments 26 Novamova 50 TIU Khreschatyk 28 Carne Grill Bar 36 Grifon 13 O'Brien's 36 TNT 10 Carribean Club 37 Gvozdiy & Oberkovych 51 Odesa Kino 14 Toys museum 45 Celentano 34 Han Gang 33 Olga 27 Trolleybus Pub 37 Central Post Office 10 Hertz Rent a Car 6 Oliva 33 Tryptych 13 Central/Southern Train Station 7 Hinkalnaya 30 Olivie 34 Tsarske Selo 30 Central Synagogue of Kyiv 42 Holiday Inn Kiev 21 Olymp 50 Tsekh Gallery 13 Centre of the ophtalmology and Holosiivs'kyi 26 Open Kiev 40 Tubeteyka 34 aestetic medicine AILAS 50 Hotel Airport 28 Opera 22 Ukraine 26 Chief Department of Foreign Hotel Boryspil 28 Osteria Pantagruel 33 Ukraine International Airlines 7 Economic Relations and Investments House With Chimeras 39 OTP Bank 51 Ukraine-Japan Centre 14 51 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 21 Park Hotel Golosievo 24 Ukraine Palace 14 Chillout Hostel Kiev 27 ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard 24 Parter 11 Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce 51 Chocalate Boutique Vasiliadi 35 Independence Square 39 Patrik Pub 37 Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Ciro's Pomodoro 33 Intercontinental 21 Pechersk School International 51 Printing 46 City Centre 27 Italian Culture Institute 14 PinchukArtCentre 13 UniCredit Bank 51 City Hotel 23 Ivan Honchar's Museum, Ukrainian Pirogovaya Nikolay 35 UnMomento 49 City Park Hotel 23 Centre of Folk Art 43 Planeta Sushi 34 UPS 10 Club Olympus 49 Jakob Grether art-centre 13 Podil Tennis Courts 50 Varadero 32 CMD 49 Khreschatik 25 Podol Plaza 22 Varenichnaya #1 30 CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz 51 Kiev Apartments 27 Polish Institute 14 Vault 13 Computer Club 10 Collection 13 Kiev Apartment Service 27 Porter Pub 37 Vernissage 32 Collège Français Anne de Kiev 51 Kiev Central Station 28 Premier Palace 22 Viola's Bierstube 37 Comelfo 30 Kiev for You 27 President Hotel 24 Vozdvyzhens'kyi Boutique Hotel 25 Cosmopolite 23 Kinari Oriental SPA 50 PricewaterhouseCoopers 51 Water Information Centre 45 Cossack's Sattlement Mamajeva Khreschatyk 39 Prime Excursion Bureau 40, 42 Whiskey Corner 33 Sloboda 43 Kinopalats 14 Prisma 49 Why not? 28 Cote d`Azur 30 KLM 7 Puzata Khata 34 Wolkonsky 35 Crystal Hall 38 Kniazhyi Grad 29 Radisson BLU 22 Xlib Club 38 Dante Zima Night Club 38 Knyharnia YE 52 Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil 22 Yunist 50 Da Vinci Fish Club 33 Kodokan 49 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 51 Zig Zag 28 DHL 10 Kolo 13 Ramada Encore Kiev 24 Disco Radio Hall 38 Kotleta Café 30 Repriza 35 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com a nk z L ne vi u O o z k lehi m u i v y a P i n s Schekavyts’ka i ’

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