Tablesaw Miter Sled Cut perfect pairs that add up to .

1 By Paul Anthony Overall dimensions: 28"w × 23 ⁄2"d × 5"h

If you have ever tried cutting and at 45° to the blade. Just Make the parts miters on the tablesaw using a position the mating workpieces 1 Cut the parts as shown in stock miter , you know how against the adjacent fences in Figure 1, dressing everything dicey it can be to get accurate 45° their assembled relationship for cuts. And if a cut is off by even a perfect 90° frame miter joints runners should slide easily in degree, the error doubles when every time. The rails at the front yourstraight, ’s flat, miter and gauge square. slots, The the mitered piece is paired with and rear edges keep the sled but with no side-to-side play. 1 its mate, creating a “square” Make them 16" thinner than corner that is anything but. Miters to prevent twisted frames. I the slot depth⁄ so they won’t 1 cut this way often have to be usedpanel 9-ply flat, which2"-thick is important drag on the bottom. To trued afterward, typically using a for⁄ its stability. reduce weight, shape the hand and shooting board. If you’re willing to invest rear rail, rounding its top Fortunately, there’s an easier an hour or two building this edges for comfort. way: using this dedicated miter sled, the time will be paid 2 Miter the ends of each 1 1 sled. The jig is foolproof due back in spades with no-fuss at 45°, and then cut a 16 × 16" miter cuts that are ready chip-clearance ⁄ into ⁄the are set squarely to each other to go right off the saw. bottom edge of each face. to its two fixed fences which Dec/Jan 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 23 Rear rail 3 1 Figure 1: Miter Sled ⁄4 × 4 ⁄2 × 28" Using The Sled Guard 14" 3 1 ⁄4 × 6 × 6" This sled allows you to miter the ends of frame pieces as Panel 1 1 ⁄2 × 28 × 23 ⁄2" wide as 6". The beauty of the design is that as long as 3 1 ⁄4" the fences are mounted at 5 #6 × 1 ⁄8" FH screw precisely 90° to each other, your miters will be perfect Glue fine every time, even if the to fence faces. fences don’t meet the blade at exactly 45°. Beginning Fence 3 3 1 with workpieces squarely ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 19 ⁄2" cut to final length, orient 5 1 1 #6 × 1 ⁄8" Front rail Cut ⁄16 × ⁄16" chip- 3 3 1 them on the sled in their FH screw ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 25 ⁄2" clearance rabbet at bottom of fences. final assembly orientation, #4 FH Fit runners to and then saw the miters. screw miter gauge slots.

Clearance hole bit Pilot hole bit

A B

3 From solid stock, saw the tabletop. Mark for the saw kerf edges with a , guard block absolutely square at the center of the panel. With cabinet scraper, or sandpaper to ensure that the fences will your rip fence against the panel, as necessary until the sled align the cutline with the blade slides easily without wobble. teeth and lock the fence in place Fitattach the to runners it at exactly 90°. to register the panel’s location. Attach the guard block, 1 Place the runners in their 2 Mark the runner centerlines fences, and rails from rear to front across the 1 the fences to the panel, and then drive a few small slots, shimming them flush to the nails through the panel into the and and countersink for Tip Alert 5 runners, leaving the heads proud #6guard × 1 block8" screws, on a flat avoiding surface the To fit runners, first scrub the for easy removal later (Photo A). blade path⁄ (Photo C). Then glue sides of your table slots with 3 Overturn the panel and attach and screw the parts together. a carpenter’s , and then the runners with countersunk 2 Lay the fence/block assembly push the sled back and forth. The Photo B). in place on the sled, and mark graphite will indicate any high Then remove the nails. where its nose intersects the spots on the runner edges. 4flathead screws ( sled’s center line. Then saw the their slots, trimming their panel to that point (Photo D). Test-fit the runners in 24 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2013 C D

E F

3 With the saw unplugged, raise the blade to full height and place a 45° triangle against the straightedge from the triangle toblade your body. layout Extend line and an accurate continue the line outward (Photo E). 4 Align the fence assembly the nose centered on the panelto the kerf,extended and clamp lines withthe assembly in place (Photo F). 5 Overturn the sled and attach the fence/block assembly 5 G with countersunk #6 × 1 8" ⁄ bisect the center of the fence railflathead and screw screws, it andavoiding the rear the miter.) Finish up by applying About Our Author railblade to path. the panel Also (fitPhoto the front G). Senior editor Paul Anthony 6 With the blade raised a to prevent workpiece slippage. is the author of Taunton’s couple inches, saw through the Makefine sandpaper sure to keep to the it above fence thefaces Complete Illustrated rear rail and into only the front chip clearance rabbet. I used Guide to Tablesaws. ends of the fence. (It’s okay spray adhesive, after masking if the blade doesn’t perfectly off the surrounding areas. n

Photos by Paul Anthony, courtesy of The Taunton Press ; Illustration: Frank Rohrbach III Dec/Jan 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 25 SUBSCRIBE! 2 YEARS for $29.99!

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