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A Cruise Around the Peloponnese in the Footsteps of Odysseus

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A Cruise around the Peloponnese In the Footsteps of Odysseus Anthony Fawcett In late April Colin Maclean, Digger Harris, two of my co-owners, and I arrived in Gouvia Marina, Corfu. Digger has sailed with me on numerous occasions including two voyages back from the Azores. Our role was to commission Moonlight Lady, a Sun Odyssey 49, and sail her to Kalamata on the Peloponnese, where my crew would leave me and I would sail on with another crew to Piraeus. This early season cruise has become something of a tradition for the three of us. We sailed to Mourtos, which was something of a pilgrimage at it was the Gouvia GREECE Corfu Mourtos Lakka N. Paxos The Skipper Lefkas Lefkada Ionian Sea Ithaka Kefalonia Sivota 38N Piraeus Zea Marina PELOPONNESE PEN Zakynthos N Zakynthos Aegina Palaia Epidavros Katakolon Poros Moonlight Lady Idhra Sun Odyssey 49 Spetses Kalamata Aegean Sea Pylos Methoni Monemvasia Diros Porto Kayio Mediterranean Sea Yerolimina O Lefki 22E 120 A Cruise around the Peloponnese first harbour we visited after we bought Moonlight Lady back in 2016. We had intended the next day to sail to Gaios on Paxos, but the wind was dead on the nose. We were barely making 3kts banging into a short steep sea. We bore away, let the genoa draw and headed off to Lákka at the north end of Paxos. We arrived in Lákka and anchored in the pool off the harbour wall. The wind kept on blowing until the evening when it began to moderate. The wind was due to veer from the south east to the west around midday. We set off hugging the coast of Paxos to keep in its lee. At the southern end of Paxos with the wind now in the southwest, we rolled out the genoa and sailed down to the entrance to the Lefkas Canal. The bridge, which is a registered vessel, opened on time and we were off down the canal to Lefkas. We had spent much of last summer sailing out of Lefkas, so it seemed only sensible to move there. We had also found that the yachting infrastructure in Lefkas was very good. Somewhat incongruously there is a Cuban Bar in Lefkas. The patron plays the guitar really beautifully and his wife, dressed to the nines in Cuban gear, serves 10- year-old rum: not a bad way to go. Moonlight Lady After some repairs to our electronics, we were able to get underway and head south to Sivota, a delightful, sheltered bay on the south coast of Lefkada. This has become a favourite stop for us. We motored out of Sivota past some stunning modern houses and headed south down the Ithaka Channel in a light northerly wind. The wind picked up at the southern end of Kefalonia so we rolled out the genoa and started sailing. We had planned to go into Áy Nikólaos, on Zakynthos, but with the sea left over from the strong winds of the previous week, it was not much fun. We took the soft option and bore away for Zakynthos town. Zakynthos was destroyed in the 1953 earthquake that also destroyed Lefkas. Like Lefkas, Zakynthos was a Venetian city; the buildings have been rebuilt with colonnades rather than, as in Lefkas, in reinforced concrete and corrugated iron. We liked Zakynthos. It had a prosperous and well-cared-for air about it. It was a beautiful day with a SSW breeze to give us a close reach over to Katákolon on the Peloponnese. What better day to christen our new mainsail. We set full sail at the entrance buoy and sailed all the way to Katakolon. There were no yachts to be seen, only a coastal tanker heading for Constanza. Katákolon is a delightful, if 121 Anthony Fawcett slightly odd place. It has town quay and capacious harbour. It is also the port for Olympia, so it attracts cruise liners, quite often two at a time. The town comes to life when the cruise liners are in, but it falls asleep again when they leave. Conveniently, there is a diesel rail car that runs from Katakolon to Olympia, which I have never managed to catch, either because it was a national holiday or because it was too early in the season. I can assure you that it does run, as I have seen it running. We hired a car and drove up to Olympia. I had been there twice before, but every time I visit the Digger and Colin in the gymnasium, Olympia site I marvel at its sheer scale and the skill, both architectural and engineering, that went into building the complex. Any city, whose athlete had been caught cheating, had to erect a statue to Zeus, with the plinth inscribed with the details their misdemeanour. President Putin would surely have been very busy erecting statues to Zeus. The sad story is that the Emperor Constantine, having embraced Christianity, decided that the temples to the Roman Gods had to be demolished and the games stopped. An earthquake, or was it a tsunami, in 551AD did the rest. In the museum there are sculptures of various Roman Emperors and a sculpture of Theodora, wife of Constantine, which seems rather inappropriate. My favourite sculpture is the Hermes of Praxiteles. We set off for Pylos in a light wind. By midday the wind had filled in from the WNW. We set full main and genoa and headed south. We passed inside Nisos Próti, where there is a handsome-looking monastery. We found that we were running in company with two other yachts heading for Pylos. Reckoning that there Hermes of Praxiteles might not be much room in Pylos marina, we decided to take the short cut inside Nisos Pylos, with its natural arch, into Navarino Bay. Colin, who is a geologist, was in his element. We gained pole position and snagged the last berth in the marina. Pylos was taken over by the Turks as a base during the Panhellenic Wars. In 1825 Ibrahim Pasha brought an army to the Peloponnese with the aim of laying it waste. The Treaty of London, signed in 1827, provided that Greece should be autonomous, 122 A Cruise around the Peloponnese but under the control of Turkey. This allowed the Western Powers to remain friendly with both Greece and Turkey, while allowing the fleets of the Western Powers to guarantee the treaty. Meanwhile an Ottoman fleet of 100 ships had sailed to Pylos to support Ibrahim Pasha. Russia, France and Great Britain sent out fleets under the commands, respectively, of Count Helden, Count de Rigny and Admiral Codrington, to whom the other admirals deferred. Despite the allied fleets the Ottomans continued to harass the Greek population. On 20 Nisos Pilos and natural arch October 1827 Admiral Codrington lost patience and sailed into Navarino Bay with his 26 ships and 1,270 guns against the Ottoman fleet of 89 warships and 2,450 guns, anchored in a semicircle guarding the entrance. An Egyptian ship opened fire. The battle, fought at anchor, continued for four hours of ‘unabated fury’. Admiral Codrington’s fleet prevailed. French troops landed in Methoni and mopped up the remaining Ottoman opposition in the Peloponnese, finally putting an end to the Panhellenic War. The French rebuilt Pylos with an attractive triangular ‘square’ overlooking the harbour and a marble monument, with medallions of the heads of the three admirals, one on each face, in the centre of the square. We motored out in a flat calm to Methoni, which boasts an enormous castle. We discovered that the only way into the castle was from the new town. The Venetians, had fortified the town along with Koroni further up the coast to Bourtzi Tower, with eastern ramparts, Methoni the north-east. These two towns were called ‘the eyes of Venice’ and protected the trading routes to the east. In 1500 the Ottomans with a force of 100,000 besieged Methoni. The Venetians could only muster 7,000 men. The Venetians held out for a month, then on 9 August four Venetian ships managed to evade the Turkish fleet and bring in much needed supplies and reinforcements. So happy were the defenders that they omitted to man the town’s defences, allowing the Ottomans to storm the castle. The defenders made a last stand in the Bourtzi tower at the 123 Anthony Fawcett southern end of the castle, but they were slaughtered to a man. The castle covers a large area, about 700m long by 200m wide. You follow a rough path along the western defensive wall all the way to the Bourtzi Tower. The Boutzi Tower is a beautiful sight, though it could not be considered to be a strong defensive position, more an elaborate watch tower. After the Battle of Navarino, the French peace-keeping force demolished the old town of Methoni within the walls and built a new town to the north of the castle. The French also built the handsome 14-arched, stone bridge from the new town to the castle. The new town of Methoni is an attractive place with a happy atmosphere. We headed south to Port Longos on Nisos Sapienza, where we anchored for the night. Nisos Sapienza is a nature reserve controlled by the Forestry Department. In the morning, we motored round Nisos Skhìza down past Ak Akritas and up to Kalamata. After lunch, Digger announced that he wanted a café coretto, which in Italian means a coffee with some grappa. In the absence of grappa Three Star Metaxa had to suffice. We berthed in Kalamata marina.
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