alternative island touring

> visiting the greek islands off-the-beaten track Financed by C.I. Leader+, Co-financed by Ministry of Rural Development and Food - European Community EAFFG-G, Development Corporation of Local Authorities of Cyclades S.A., Development Agency of Dodecanese (AN.DO) S.A. 38

luscious mountains characterize the At Keri, on sea rocks, there is the very ZAKYNTHOS eastern part of the island, where the important endemic species of Zakyn- fertile plains lie. In the northwest there thos limonium, but also the mod- are higher mountains, scarce vegeta- est caper (Capparis spinosa), kritamo tion and steep cliffs, that dive vertically (Crithmum maritimum) and thalasso- into the sea and form impressive caves. chorto (Salsola aegea). The scenery is different on the sand Flora dunes of and Kalamaki where With its Mediterranean sunlight, fre- there are some sand-loving species, such Venetians called it “the Flower of the quent rainfalls and the good “house- as galingale (Cyperus capitatus), Echi- Orient” and modern travellers discover keeping” of its residents, Zakynthos nophora spinosa, Eryngium maritimum, a spot of rare natural beauty and mod- looks like a vast, well-preserved gar- Euphorbia paralias, Juncus acutus, Medi- ern civilisation. den. In the east of the island, one finds cago marina and Pancratium maritimum. The most important marine park of mainly olive tree groves but also citrus, , a cedar forest, sea caves, peach, plum, apricot and pine trees, Fauna breathtaking beaches, horseback rid- numerous palm trees and the famous Except for the famous sea turtle Caret- ing by the sea waves are some of Za- vineyards. Locals are particularly fond ta caretta, Zakynthos hosts one of the kynthos gifts. Discover traditional vil- of bottlebrush (Callistemon spp) with largest populations of the Mediterra- lages in vineyards and olive tree groves, its reddish flowers and the multi-col- nean Monachus monachus seals in poets and authors that marked Greek oured bougainvilleas which decorate Greece; they nest in rocky caves along literature, sounds of mandolins and many of the island’s gardens. the island’s western coasts. serenades. Vegetation is different on the west Due to its geographical location and Zakynthos invites travellers to explore side, on Mount Vrachion, where there rich flora, the island has numerous bird it and discover its beautiful locations. is mostly bushy vegetation, such as populations. It is, therefore, an ideal lo- bushy cypresses, lentisk (Pistacia len- cation for bird watching and attracts Natural wealth tiscus), kermes oak, phillyrea (Phillyrea the interest of Greek and international ecotourists annually. Rock partridges The study of rocks on the island indi- latifolia) and, less frequently, myrtle, (Alectoris graeca), Eleonora’s falcons cates that the history of Zakynthos deciduous oak and pine trees. (Falco eleonorae), shags (Phalacrocorax dates back to 700,000 years ago, in the Some native species are contained in aristotelis), Cretzschmar’s Buntings Lower Pleistocene period, when consid- island flora, such as and peonies cro- (Emberiza caesia), Sardinian Warblers erable geological transformations were cuses, while there are 40 or more wild (Sylvia melanocephala) that are only taking place on the whole planet. The orchid species of special beauty. 13cm in size, Subalpine Warblers (Sylvia discovery of the prehistoric settlement The islands of the gulf, Keri and some cantillans) and booted eagles (Aquila in Agios Nikolaos, Vassilikos, as well as parts of Vassilikos, are the only loca- pennata) frequently pass through the is- the tools discovered at numerous sites tions on the island where one finds typ- land and some lay their eggs here. Also, on the island testify to the long human ical Mediterranean maquis vegetation, during the bird migration season, island presence on Zakynthos. lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), kermes oak, skies teem with turtle doves (Streptope- A varied terrain creates the island’s Spanish broom (Spartium junceum), lia hypopyrrha), woodcocks (Scolopax), unique natural beauty. Low hills and dog roses, bramble shrubs, etc. song thrushes (Turdus philomelos), Eur- ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Where was the first Marine Park in Greece created? Zakynthos ionian islands 39

extra Town of Zakynthos: pale coloured manor houses, Venetian arcades, loggias and a cobblestone road that leads to Bohali district at the Venetian Castle, where medieval Zakynthos lay. The Lions of Agios Markos, sleepless guard- tips ians at the castle gate welcome visitors. Excavations have brought to light a plethora of churches built between 11th and 18th c. as well as ruins from the Byzantine period and the English rule.

asian Hoopoes (Upupa epops) and wild area of 14.2km2, and a peripheral zone toi Nissoi (floating islands), is a group swans (Cygnus). are the resting of 31.2km2. of small islands off the bay of Laganas. grounds for many herons, little egret For this reason almost the entire bay They belong to the National Zakynthos’ (Egretta garzetta) and collared pratin- is a protected area, which is divided in Marine Park and are included in the Im- coles (Glareola pratincola). zones where different restrictions to portant Bird Area (IBA) list. The rich fauna of the island is comple- human activity apply, depending on The largest island is Stamfani, with an mented by colourful butterflies. Clouded the time of year. area of 2.5km2, and the second largest 2 Yellow butterflies (Colias croceus), also Once the eggs are laid, it will take 50 to is Arpyia, a mere 1.5km . known as Ionian butterflies, with yel- 75 days and nights for the baby turtles About 200 flora species have been low wings, the brownish Freyer Grayling to hatch and start running to the sea, recorded on the Strofades; 35% of butterflies (Neohipparchia fatua), but orientated by light. This is why it is im- Stamfani is covered by a cedar forest, also Spotted Fritillary butterflies (Meli- portant that there should be few lights one of the largest in Western Greece taea didyma) with their intense orange- around the sand, so that baby turtles in regard to area, tree size and natural coloured wings are a colourful note. will not be disoriented. Those who make propagation. Zakynthos’ Marine Park it to the sea and survive difficulties and The entire group of islands is an im- marine predators will return to the same portant passage and resting stop for Zakynthos’ Marine Park is unique in its place where they hatched to lay their numerous migrating birds and, there- kind in the entire Mediterranean Sea own eggs. The sex of the newly born fore, an ideal spot for bird-watching. and was created in 1999. It was the turtle is determined by the temperature Approximately 146 bird species have first Marine Park in Greece with its own at which their eggs are incubated. Thus, been recorded here! management agency and it became a more male turtles are born on Maratho- Some of the birds that fly by the Strofades model for other areas in Greece. Its nissi, where temperatures are lower! importance for the survival of the now islands are the black and white spotted famous but still threatened by extinc- Turtles are reptiles and can reach up to flycatchers (Muscicapa striata), nightin- tion Caretta carretta sea turtle is great. 1.25m in length and 180k in weight; gales (Luscinia megarhynchos), Cory’s In the Mediterranean and in Greece, they have a brown-reddish shell and shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea), and in particular, there are also other sea large head. The most interesting piece turtledoves (Streptopelia capicola). turtle nesting beaches, such as in the of information that we have about them western , in the gulf of is that the species appeared on the earth Water sports Lakonia, on , , Rhodes approximately 150 million years ago and A classic destination for Greek and in- and elsewhere, but the bay of Laga- has managed to survive until today. This ternational sailing enthusiasts alike, the nas is the animals’ largest and most alone is reason enough for us to protect island has six marinas to choose from, important refuge. Egg-laying beaches it. Finally, it should be noted that Zakyn- depending on wind direction during are those of Laganas, Sekania, Daphni, thos’ Marine Park attracts ecotourists one’s stay on Zakynthos. Kalamaki, Gerakas and on the small is- from all over the world. lands of Marathonissi and Pelouzo, all Diving located around Laganas Bay. In fact the Strofades An organised diving centre and numer- park covers a sea area of 89.2km2, land The Strofades, otherwise known as Plo- ous diving spots offer divers the oppor- 40 ionian islands Zakynthos

tunity to explore the beautiful sea bed the following are some indicative itin- and the foot of Mount Skopos are only around the island. Sea cave complexes, eraries offered: some of the locations where bikers can huge rocks and poseidonia meadows A very interesting itinerary on the north enjoy unique routes. There are firms make diving here a unique experience. side is that leading from the traditional that hire equipment and organise bik- village of Ano to Faros. It is a ing escapes. Sea kayaking 6.5km hike of medium difficulty, during It is the most beautiful way to enjoy the which one encounters most of the Medi- Horse riding sea and the tiny islets around Zakynthos; terranean fauna species of the island; this On Zakynthos one can go horse riding on it is also a unique opportunity to race a is why it is called the “botanic trail”. the sandy beach or on the green hills and explore the island on horseback. Riding Μοnachus monachus seal. A visit to the The classic mountainous hike on the centres at Kalamaki and Gerakari give Blue Caves will reward visitors with their west part of the island connects the vil- travellers the opportunity to get to know rocky formations and incredible water lages of Kiliomenos and . It is the magical world of horses. colours creating a magical setting. easy; one starts at the church of Agios Nikolaos with its stone bell tower built Villages and hamlets Windsurfing in 1893, and walks towards Ypera- The hinterland of Zakynthos has very There are suitable beaches and ideal gathou Monastery, before walking beautiful villages and hamlets. Those winds for windsurfing both on the through the vineyard plateau. Stone you have not discovered while hiking north and the south part of the island. water wells are worth a stop before are worth visiting by car! one continues towards Loucha. Small boat trips Loucha is a traditional mountain vil- A 1.5-hour hike starts at Keri wet- lage in the middle of the island, built There are trips from Zakynthos to small land, continues through vineyards and deep in lush vegetation. inaccessible beaches or tours around olive groves to Keri village and then on the small nearby islands. Infrastructure to Faros, where, on a natural balcony, Gyri lies next to Loucha; it was built in for such trips is particularly developed 200m above the sea, one can enjoy the 15th century at an altitude of 550m; the panoramic view renders it one of the on the island. an enchanting sunset and look out best observatory points of the island. From Porto Vromi cove you can visit to Mikri and Megali Myzithra, two the famous Navagio (shipwreck) beach enormous pyramid-shaped white rocks At Agios Leon you should visit the vil- in 20 minutes, while for the Blue Caves that rise from the sea. lage church, the bell tower of which is the lower part of a windmill! the nearest departure point is that of On the east side of the bay of Laga- Agios Nikolaos on the north east coast. nas, starting at , one goes up Kampi is another traditional hamlet A special trip is to Marathonissi, the sea towards Tourla peak of Mount Sko- surrounded by lush vegetation; it is lo- turtles’ egg laying spot. pos at 492m, with a magnificent view cated next to the Mycenaean cemetery over the bay. Shortly before the peak of the island. Hiking the trail goes past the 15th century At Kiliomeno the Women’s Agricul- Besides sea activities, the island of- Panagia Skopiotissa monastery and the tural Association “Melissiotisses” is fers hiking, mountain biking as well as ruins of the ancient Artemis temple. worth visiting; visitors will find local horseback riding options. products and freshly baked bread at Discover the beauty of Zakynthos by Mountain biking their premises. choosing one of its many hiking trails; The green region of Votanikos, Keri, At one should visit Damianos ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Where is Panagia Panton Chara located? Zakynthos ionian islands 41

extra A short urban hike of special cultural value that is worth taking, starts at the city of Zakynthos and goes to Akrotiri, on Strani Hill, where Dionyssios Solomos, the Greek national poet, sitting in the shade of a tree and overlooking tips Messolongi, was inspired and wrote the Greek national anthem. This is a green hill affording a wonderful view!

cave with the impressive stalactites At Lady of the Angels church dat- tion spot, survived the earthquake and and stalagmites and its two entrances ing to 1687, notice the interesting maintains significant icons and unique that make it extraordinary. relief adornments on the exterior and icon stands made of carved wood. On the east side, verdant is the icons painted by Doxaras in the In the monastery of Panagia Skopi- a starting point for the neighbouring interior. otissa, at Vassilikos, one can admire its Alykes. At Agios Georgios Filikon, a con- amazing frescos. To the north, Orthonies is built on the struction dating back to the 17th cen- The impressive church of Agia Ma- slope of Mount Vrachion, among vine- tury, supporters were initiated into the vra at the village of Mahairado, with yards and olive groves. In the neigh- Filiki Etairia (Association of Friends), a the Venetian bell tower, the sound of bouring village of Ano Volimes, one secret revolutionary organization, and which is said to be the most melodic in of the most traditional hamlets of the took their vows of serving the cause of Greece, has some amazing icons. The island will impress visitors with hand- the Revolution and fighting the Turks. church was destroyed by fire on De- made embroidered works, true art- Theodoros Kolokotronis was initiated cember 8, 2005 and it is being restored works created by local women. and joined the Association here. according to its original plan. The Monastery of Madona Ana- Panagia Keriotissa church, built at Churches and monasteries fonitria, at the village Skoulikado, is a Keri, one of the most beautiful spots Church architecture of Zakynthos, al- beautiful church made of stone in the of the island, is famous for its architec- though deeply wounded by the cata- 15th century, built on a natural bal- ture, its wooden carving works and its strophic 1953 earthquake, stands out cony with a view over the whole area. icons. when compared to the architecture of Agios Dionyssios led an ascetic life here Yperagathou Monastery, a depend- for many years. the rest of the Ionian Islands. Byzantine ency of Mt. Sina Monastery, is built as well as strong western influences in The Byzantine and Post-Byzantine icons near village, next to a beau- conjunction with local craftsmen have in Agios Georgios of Gremon church tiful forest of pine and century old oak created stunning basilicas with high built in 1535 AD are of special interest. trees. It is a small monastery established bell towers, fortified monasteries, as Agios Gerassimos also led an ascetic in the 17th century and it is dedicated well as simple chapels. life here, and later became the pa- to Panagia. tron saint of Cephalonia. The amazing At the church Agios Dionyssios, pa- Finally, Strofadon Monastery is of out- tower was built in 1561 to protect the tron saint of Zakynthos, with a high standing beauty and importance; it is monks from the pirates. bell tower, the relics of the saint are still dedicated to the Transfiguration of the preserved. The temple is a three-aisled Faneromeni church, in Chorfa, was Saviour or Panagia Panton Chara, basilica with a beautifully carved wood- rebuilt exactly as it used to be before due to the icon of Panagia with the en iconostasis and icons by Doxaras. the earthquake; it is a typical example same name found in the monastery. The church of Agios Nikolaos of Mo- of Zakynthos church architecture. Its According to historical records, the los, dating back from 1561, is a single carved wooden iconostasis is exquisite. monastery was established in the 13th aisle basilica and it is the only Venetian The monastery of Agios Ioannis Pro- century by Irini, daughter of Theodoros building that didn’t collapse in the dromos (St. John the Baptist), near Laskaris; it was renovated in the 15th town after the 1953 earthquake. Katastari village, built on an observa- century by Ioannis VII. It is 42 ionian islands Zakynthos

one of the monasteries where Agios Vertzageio Museum, at Pigadakia mustard made of quince, the ladotyri Dionyssios lived as a monk. Part of the village near Alykes, Katastari, presents which is oil cheese and Zakynthian gru- monastery is built in a tower! the cultural and agricultural history of a yere cheese. There are also kanarinia, traditional village of the island. Among i.e. fresh yellow beans and home- Museums exhibits there are rare objects related to made smoked ham prepared just be- Zakynthos Byzantine Museum, on the agricultural life of the island, some fore Easter, string beans, accompanied Solomou Square, presents the evolution of which date back to the 16th cen- by aliada, a garlic potato mash dip, of the Byzantine painting and the begin- tury, as well as tools and various pieces scented melon, small, tasty wild straw- ning of modern Greek painting. Among of agricultural equipment, household berries and water onions, also known works exhibited are wooden carved and items, furniture and art works by lo- as beloussiotika, which are big sweet gold-plated iconostases, many portable cal artists. The flour mill and the stone white onions. Of course, visitors should icons and unique murals from churches olive press are two of the outstanding taste the famous raisins of the island, damaged during the 1953 earthquake. exhibits. also known as “black gold” which is a Protected Designation of Origin prod- Visitors can see works by famous The Milaneio Maritime Museum uct known as “Zakynthos Raisin”, the artists, such as Doxaras, Koutouzis, at Tsilivi, presents a unique record of Greek shipping history, with 140 rare mantolato or nougat and the pasteli, Tzanes, Kantounis and Damaskenos. aquarelle works, objects from known which is made with sesame, almonds At Solomos and other Prominent ships and photographic material. and honey here. Fytoura, a sweet Zakynthians’ Museum, on Agios The Mansion of the Roma family, in made with semolina and sugar, and Markos Square, the relics of two great the town of Zakynthos has been linked aromatic honey are also famous sweet poets are preserved, namely Dionyssios with important moments in the history flavours of the island. Don’t forget to Solomos and Andreas Kalvos, as well of the island and it is a unique sample taste freshly baked bread from the bak- as significant manuscripts, a rich col- of the houses which the aristocratic eries of the island. lection of their portraits, furniture and and wealthy families used to live in; as Apart from the raisin grapes, there are photographic material. At the entrance most of them were ruined by the 1953 other varieties for wine-making that of the Museum stands the kermes oak earthquake. The mansion was built in are cultivated on the island: skiadopou- tree under which Dionyssios Solomos the decade of 1660 by the Vice Consul lo, goustolidi, robola, areti for white wrote the Greek National Anthem. of England in Zakynthos and during the wines, avgoustiatis, katsakoulias and Grigorios Xenopoulos’ Museum, in period of the English Protection, 1814- skylopnichtis for red ones. Extraordinary the historic Faneromeni district, hosts 1864, the house was used as the resi- names, unique varieties! Small hospita- archives and personal belongings of dence of the English Governor and it ble wineries at Mahairado, Kallipodo the well known author and, of course, was known as ‘Rezidentsa’. and at the area of Kydoni, surrounded issues of the avant-garde children’s by vineyards are waiting to show trav- magazine “Diaplassis ton Paidon”, Flavours ellers around the vinification tanks, the which he was the editor of. Zakynthos cuisine echoes of Venetian aging cellars and initiate them to the The enormous natural wealth of the is- influences; combined with local prod- secrets of Zakynthian wine. land is presented in the Natural History ucts it pleasantly surprises visitors. One Museum, at Agia Marina. More than should sample the saltsa or sartsa, Festivals and celebrations 1,500 specimens of the rich flora and which is meat cooked in a thick red Zakynthos is an island with a great mu- fauna species of the island are on display. sauce, the mostarda, which is sweet sical tradition. The first Greek Philhar- ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ What are the “Omilies”? Zakynthos ionian islands 43

monic Association was established actors. It is worth noting that these ditional art festivals; all this bring the here, in 1816. Mantolinates, i.e. mando- actors are always males, even for fe- whole island to life. lin bands, perform Zakynthian serenades male roles and wear masks, similarly to My Zakynthos experience and fill the island with sounds that com- ancient drama performances. Usually bine Byzantine and Venetian influences there is some form of elementary or and offer unique musical journeys in no stage set and emphasis is placed on Greece. It is worth noting the Zakynthian enunciation and movement; the con- type of church music, a type of Byzantine tent is almost always a satire of every- music chanted in the western quadra- day life. Do not miss the opportunity phonic style, and the arekia, a quadra- to watch an “Omilia” performed by phonic type of popular songs without island drama groups, the Zakynthian any instrument accompaniment, which daily events. are still sung on the island today. The Holy Week is celebrated in a Choirs and philharmonic orchestras unique way. The procession of the of Zakynthian music enthusiasts turn Epitaph of Agios Nikolaos Metropolis any island event into a unique celebra- takes place at sunrise of Holy Friday tion of music. and the Epitaphs on the island are not decorated with flowers, but with During the Zakynthian Carnival a cri- golden foil and velvet! The first Resur- er wanders around the island and an- rection Mass, on Holy Saturday is cele- nounces the carnival schedule through brated with local housewives smashing towns: balls, parades, masquerades ceramic pots. and performing groups improvise in the streets and squares. The events end On June 24, the feast of Ai-Yiannis with the “Burial of the Mask”, a paro- Klidonas, people light bonfires, known dy burial of the Carnavalos, the effigy as fougaries, and jump over them, for of the king of the carnival. The carnival good luck. is not confined to the town, but travels On July 31, in Ammos district of the to all island villages. town, the local custom malliari takes It is mainly during the Carnival pe- place, where many Zakynthians dive riod that the Zakynthian “Omilies” into the sea at midnight, in order to (Speeches) are performed in town find a grassy, hairy pebble that will and village streets and squares; it is a bring them good luck for the rest of kind of popular theatre where fifteen- the year. The evening includes barca- rolles and Zakynthian serenades. syllable rhyming verses are recited in local accent and a long-drawn enun- Religious feasts and festivals are held ciation. “Omilies” appeared in the all over the island throughout the year. middle of 17th century, evolved along On August 24, Zakynthos honours its with other kinds of Zakynthian arts patron saint, Agios Dionyssios with and used to entertain people in rural lengthy preparations that culminate in areas. The main influence that led to a glorious procession and fireworks. their appearance was Cretan literature Numerous cultural events are organ- and Italian Comedia dell’arte. Perform- ized in the summer, such as concerts, ers of “Omilies” are popular amateur drama performances, book and tra- PUBLICATION CONTRIBUTORS ISLAND TOURING 175

1st Edition: 2009

Published by: “Nisson Periplous” Development Agencies’ Network of Insular Greece Edited by- Texts: Despina Papadima Design - Layout: Nikoleta Balothiari Sketches by: Dimitrios Kordalis Text editing: Nikos Kokkalas Translation: Interpretation and Translation Centre – Jenny Kantartzi-Lousta English Text Editing: Kleo Webber Printed by - Bookbinding: Bibliosynergatiki Photographs: Collective work (see. Photo index pg.170-171) Research - Data collection: Despina Papadima, Annita Mordechai, Irene Stergiou, Aristos Giannopoulos, Georgia Vassalou, Melina Legaki, Aliki Marinou, Dimitrios Stathopoulos Edition co-ordination: Dimitra Kampeli Development Agency

ISBN: 978-960-98860-5-5 This publication was printed in 7000 items and is distributed free of any charge

Financed by C.I. Leader+, Co-financed by Ministry of Rural Development and Food - European Community EAFFG-G, Development Corporation of Local Authorities of Cyclades S.A., Development Agency of Dodecanese (AN.DO) S.A. www.nisonperiplous.gr

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