Munching at Midnight Pairing Desserts with Beer Are

NO. 52 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS : SETTING AMERICA’S TABLE

Are Online Munching Reviews Still at Midnight Relevant? Pairing Winning the Desserts Wing War with Beer

Que Sara, Sarah

L.A. chefs Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson lead the pack of 2018’s Rising Stars Celebrating

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38 48

SARA KRAMER AND SARAH HYMANSON ARE THE RISING STARS BEHIND KISMET IN LOS ANGELES.

26 CONTENTS

CHEFS & INGREDIENTS 38 Winning the 48 Rising Stars 16 BY FSR EDITORIAL TEAM Shaking Up Service Wing War How Alley Twenty Six’s Chef Carrie Schleiﬀ er built

BARNES Chefs, owners, bartenders— BY DANNY KLEIN her food menu around the bar’s cocktail menu. some barely in their 30s—are MELISSA

As casual dining struggles and / transforming the business LIQUID INTELLIGENCE (2) chicken-wing prices soar, one from every which way. Here’s brand ﬁ gures out how to grow 26 Save Room for Dessert Wine our 40 under 40 for 2018.

THINKSTOCK steadily and proﬁ tably. Boost sweet wine sales with imagination.

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CaN a BarBeCue CHaiN THe JoYs aND Trials oF wHY TiP-PooliNg CoulD ever rule ameriCa’s BeiNg a resTauraNT Be makiNg a ComeBaCk DiNiNg sCeNe? owNer What will really happen Despite rabid followings We’ve heard it all before: with the Department of and iconic branding, it Long hours and low Labor’s proposed rule has been difficult, if not wages. It isn’t always easy, that is intended to distrib- impossible, for barbecue but there’s nothing quite ute tips to all employees chains to expand nation- like owning your own res- who contribute to the cus - ally. Will that ever change? taurant. tomer experience? FoodNewsfeed.com/ FoodNewsfeed.com/ FoodNewsfeed.com/ Can-BBQ-rule owning-restaurants Tip-Pooling

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EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION

Brand Stories inside FSR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Journalistic, Inc. Sam Oches 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150 [email protected] Chapel Hill, NC 27517

EDITOR GROUP PUBLISHER TRENDING ON THE MENU FOOD NEWS MEDIA Laura D’Alessandro [email protected] Greg Sanders 65 Breaking Bread [email protected] SENIOR EDITOR ough bread may seem basic, spe- PRESIDENT Nicole Duncan cialty baked goods have the power [email protected] Webb C. Howell

to transform a menu, elevate ASSOCIATE EDITOR IT MANAGER oﬀ erings, and increase consumer Laura Zolman Kirk Jason Purdy [email protected] demand. [email protected] CONTROLLER { SPONSORED CONTENT SECTION } FOOD EDITOR Amelia Levin Marcie Coyne [email protected] [email protected]

CUSTOM CONTENT EDITOR ACCOUNTING ASSOCIATE Peggy Carouthers Carole Ogan Online [email protected] [email protected] DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR ADVERTISING Go to FoodNewsfeed.com/Sponsored-Content Danny Klein [email protected] NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS Eugene Drezner OPERATIONS MENU INNOVATION (800) 662-4834 ext. 126 Mandy Ellis [email protected] Beverly Stephen Barney Wolf NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Jeff Cioletti Amber Dobsovic Maggie Hennessy (800) 662-4834 ext. 141 Gary M. Stern [email protected] Jessie Szalay NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Mary Avant John Krueger Daniel P. Smith (800) 662-4834 ext. 148 THIS BRAND ALMOST WHY MAKING SERVERS [email protected] DOUBLED ITS REVENUE BY MORE EFFICIENT CAN PRODUCTION & DESIGN SALES ASSISTANT IMPROVING BOOST THE BUDGET Tracy Doubts COMMUNICATION ART DIRECTOR (800) 662-4834 ext. 124 Technology can improve Kathryn “Rosie” Haller [email protected] How technology creates customer service and [email protected] seamless restaurant opera- server efﬁ ciency without PRODUCTION MANAGER CIRCULATION tions that satisfy guests. increasing payroll costs. Mitch Avery CIRCULATION COORDINATOR { SPONSORED BY QSR { SPONSORED BY KALLPOD } [email protected] AUTOMATIONS } N. Weber GRAPHIC DESIGNER [email protected] Erica Naftolowitz [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS MENU INNOVATION DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT TOLL FREE (800) 662-4834 Heather Stevens

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is provided without charge Facebook.com/FSRmag upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting Twitter.com/FSRmag subscription criteria as set THINKSTOCK

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6 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM Don’t be chicken of chicken sausage.

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• Base salary of $75,000 • $5,000 health insurance contribution • Plus 5-10% distribution based on cash • Generous paid time off policy flow as well as equity participation IF YOU DREAM OF DOING SOMETHING MORE, METRO DINER HAS THE ANSWER Please send any inquiries or resumes to [email protected] First Course

The “Oklahoma” with chicken- fried rabbit and Hoppin' John risotto coincided with J.D. McPherson's November visit Masura to Thalia Hall. Taylor Musical Meals

By Nicole DuNcaN For 16” on Center, the best dining expe- since 2016, 16” on Center has part- riences are multi-layered. Boasting a nered with local and national organi- Musicians’ hometowns number of restaurants and event ven- zations like Cure Violence Illinois, Chi- inspire signature ues around Chicago, the hospitality cago Public schools, and Foundations dishes at this Chicago group is invested in its community— of Music. For every online ticket sale, restaurant/event venue. the very name refers to a construction customers have the option to add a $1 mark that yields the strongest build. to $10 donation to their order with the

FOODNEWSFEED.COM MarCh 2018 11 First Course

nonprofit or charity of choice changing each quarter. The latest initiative marries the Slow It Down culinary to the musical. Since Octo- ber, Chef Michael Galen of Michelin- Consumer palates favor more time-intensive prep methods starred Dusek’s Board & Beer has when it comes to cooking animal proteins. In the past four years, collaborated with musicians who smoking, braising, and other slow-cooking techniques have wit- perform at sister concept Thalia nessed dramatic upticks. For example, brining chicken has sky- Hall next door. Together they cre- rocketed with a 182 percent increase. Here are the cooking ate dishes inspired by the artists’ methods seeing the most growth for each protein. hometowns. These specials are then served at Dusek’s the day or days Percent increase in Past four years: of those performances with half the proceeds going to the charity of the musicians’ choice. “The intertwining of food and Beef - music combines two of our great smoked: Braised: est passions,” says Bruce Finkelman, managing partner at 16” on Center. 23% 16% “So much of our inspiration is caused by the food that comforts us. Giving an avenue for musicians and chefs to explore that inspiration has created some very memorable and interesting dishes, and spurred some Pork great ideas on the stage and in the Pulled: ruBBed: kitchen.” Last fall Thalia Hall welcomed a 36% 28% number of artists, including Sam Beam, better known by his stage name, Iron & Wine. Galen worked with Beam, who hails from South Carolina, to make a Barolo-braised short rib with fig-wood smoked bar- Chicken ley risotto, sautéed kale, roasted Brined: smoked: sunchokes, and caramelized fig with a red wine glaze. Proceeds bene- 182% 43% fited the Rebuild Foundation, which strengthens communities by developing affordable housing and offering free arts programming. Sound Bites is off to a strong start in 2018 with acts like Noah Gunder- son (with a spaghetti carbonara) and Frightened Rabbit (with a vegetarian

haggis). It’s a multi-sensory experi- k STOC ence for guests and a gratifying col- k

laboration for 16” on Center. THIN / aL

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work in an vocation that combines Ta Da

all the things we love, and proud OF y

to be able to use our businesses as eS RT u

a vehicle to help others within our CO a T

community,” Finkelman says. Da

12 MaRCH 2018

First Course

Beer + Brunch: A L ve Story

While brunch has never been a teetotaling occasion, new consumer research from Mintel suggests it’s getting even boozier. Some 40 percent of urban millennialS want to See more drink SpecialS at brunch; that includes old standbys like Bloody Marys and mimosas, as well as relative newcomer beer. Brunch programs offering brews have skewed toward craft specialties, but certain imports could curry favor with guests, according to Mintel. English and Mexican imports may be a good starting point, given that those cuisines are the most popular at brunch. Beers like radlers and shandies could also win fans thanks to low ABVs that are more conducive to the early-ish daypart. Suggested pairings: (4) Ck hinksto t Huevos rancHeros + sMoked salMon + oMelette + frencH toast + Mexican lager saison fruity radler coffee porter

The Mac Daddy Masters

Perhaps the most versatile of all comfort foods, mac and cheeSe can be found everywhere from a casual diner to the most high-end of restaurants. At the international Foodservice Editorial Council (ifec) conference in october, a pair of culinary stu- dents dreamed up two very different iterations. Reser’s Foodservice partnered with the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts for the Hungry to Learn competition wherein contestants were tasked with creating a “Mac daddy” dish using Reser’s Macaroni and Cheese. hy

RAP Miguel Villalobos won the match and a $1,000 scholarship for his three cheeSe mac with Photog bacon and JalapeñoS featuring smoky bacon. ings

MM Fellow student iyar Mamis took second place and Cu d fried curry mac and

AR a $500 scholarship for his Ch

Ri cheeSe ballS with apricot dipping Sauce.

14 MARCh 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm vineyard classic

shade is absolutely our specialty

t. 305.634.5116 e. [email protected] tuuci.com Chefs & Ingredients WHEN FOOD FOLLOWS BEVERAGE // LATE-NIGHT MENU DISHES AND TRENDS

FOR DURHAM, NORTH CAROLINA’S ALLEY TWENTY SIX, THE FOOD MENU CAME SECOND TO ITS CRAFT COCKTAIL OFFERINGS.

Shaking Up Service

Instead of building a drink menu around a food menu, Alley Twenty Six’s Chef Carrie Schleiffer built her food menu around the bar’s cocktail menu. By Amelia Levin

fter fi ve years as a cocktail-only spot, Alley food menu that offi cially launched in February 2017. Twenty Six’s owner Shannon Healy took But the facilities, however new, weren’t the biggest. advantage of the sudden availability of the And even though Schleiff er had worked with small work- A space next door to his downtown Durham, spaces at Durham-based Bar Virgile—another gastro- North Carolina bar and built a kitchen. “Usually restau- cocktail bar—and the now-closed G2B Restaurant and rants build a cocktail program around the food, not the Brewery, taking over Alley Twenty Six’s kitchen took other way around,” says Carrie Schleiff er, a Gramercy some creativity. To make use of the tiny space, many Tavern alum and veteran gastropub chef who was elements are mobile, including the grinder that sits on

recruited to head up the kitchen and creation of the a cart with wheels for easy in-and-out access. THINKSTOCK

16 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM ® We’ve taken the bold, balanced flavor of Texas Pete Original Hot Sauce and created ® Texas Pete Original Dust Dry Seasoning to bring even more versatility to your menu. With lower sodium than the competitors, Dust will be your new favorite seasoning. Learn more at TexasPeteFoodservice.com/Dust Alley TwenTy Six / KriSTin Moore / nATAliA weedy The 18 A New with fit to two the the fried frequently—range ferent for for Owner ian-style ing made maple most and and burgers cuisine, easily extra scotch stand-up Chefs ki make with “During

the service,” Rather dining/bar fresh rest TC dishes—which then convection cheese Orleans an everything oysters chicken cooler hen, MA global whip bacon eggs, burgers, A Schleiffer the elevated and of cured poke, nd transform pâté refrigerators, rch & than S the day the the in le erving $11 Schleiffer to up space. ragouts. specialty, influences pecans, Ingredients 2018 with route, Ad liver from meats, to space kitchen small focus a ovens. without to mix served meal-sized dishes meal-sized six-burner range, and range, six-burner bar chose we bi from $16 mousse a the She rotate local something OlO TeS is food spiced on plates so do terra For says. Filling says. There’s Schleiffer serves Schleiffer made a kitchen a are cocktail like up brings bar and Schleiffer one gi all small mashup the artisans, a approach ST and change and in a and of chips, snacks twist like C Sh cornmeal dish particular in-house. couple need hef the no our prep our flat at A she salumi Hawai- house- menu. nn room S of night sizes invit- on took and C like like top can but out for On heA dif- hleiffer’ to of a Alley with Schleiffer for SC pickled and a batter salmon ly garnish hleiffer (l S a m crispy O Maine- and Maine- fresh Twen A wer and ine-in cucumbers, poke of middle) has spicy wontons ginger, Ty tobiko, Sriracha tobiko, S has Six’ pired swapped remoulade S a Boston-inspired roll, Boston-inspired O Chef soy r pickled Japanese pened for O ll sauce, C lobster ( scooping. TO A d rrie red onions, red aioli p urh sauce. middle), sesame oil, sesame influence, A for drizzle, m’ And S A The but- w lley AS l “We T Twenty weekends with fled tion throughout tomers to the ter-poached 5:30 notch.” neighborhood is potle arugula,” and burger beloved be because of served says. A wen un constantly the most the have able No On Of eight-ounce grind cheddar, not of one or one of C p.m. cold Ty Ty S aioli hed course, surprise, weekdays, on on to Six something can have cocktail we ix come and in Schleiffer food served our a the when is I

popular AS toasted are the order made f paired shrimp a to ebru A CrAfT meat stays menu the place. bourbon bacon bourbon rotating in eat a two the night. burger there’s FOODNEWSFEED.c list; bar, multiple the from A food in-house, like the same the with burger brioche dishes in ry open items, We says. but mixed the but kitchen 2017. COC “With house until a with extra menu the want the and bacon to printed until we “We k on times remains take TA restaurant’s bun. with our thing,” full 2 black and the and evolving, are the jam, help, people il opens a.m. at cheddar wanted b 11 it a menu menu A excep- also menu menu. mayo Alley serve fresh week r. a upa p.m., truf- cus- one On she chi-

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Alley TwenTy Six suggests specifi c drinks with diff erent foods—like lamb loin chops with quinoa, toasted cashew, spiced yogurt, kale and pomegranate paired with the Respect Your Elderberries cocktail of Connip- tion American Dry Gin, local elderberry syrup, bitters, and absinthe—and Schle- iff er works closely with the bartenders to create dishes and provide ingredients for the drinks. “Just like we serve seasonal food from the kitchen, our bar focuses on seasonal ingredients and fl a- vors using homemade syrups, cola, and sodas,” she says. “Most recently I helped make a sweet potato syrup for a wintery drink.” Being able to serve food has transformed Alley Twenty Six into more than Constellation™ dinnerware, Equity flatware just a bar. “ere are not a ton of places in our area that serve food until 2 .., so having that option has been really great for us,” Schleiff er says. “We just try to so you can set tables have things that are easy and accessi- ble for us but also fun and interesting. for rave reviews Durham is growing at a rapid pace so it’s fun to off er diff erent things to help Serve the freshest culinary experiences with Libbey’s us stand out from the crowd, especially brightest-ever white porcelain, Constellation™ dinnerware. later at night.” Exclusively from Libbey, it features advanced Microban® technology that inhibits odor- and stain-causing bacteria.

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ALSO IN 2017, ALLEY TWENTY SIX NEARLY DOUBLED ITS DINING SPACE.

Late-Night Delights

BY AMELIA LEVIN Late-night menus come with challenges. Kitchens have already semi- closed; staff is tight. It can be tempting to simply cobble together leftovers, but plenty of restaurants have a menu and plan in place to offer delicious bites, well past traditional dining hours. The result? Extra revenue and another opportunity to get creative. Take a look at these examples.

Welsh Rarebit Toast

Nathan Sears,, CHEF Sears prepares the dish by grilling ciabatta bread slices and then topping them with a cheddar and stout sauce—a traditional Welsh rarebit. The toasts State and are then topped with Lake Chicago sliced fresh radish and cor- Tavern nichons with the option of adding a fried egg. CHICAGO STATE ANDSTATE LAKE CHICAGO TAVERN

Doughnuts with Foie Gras, Almond Mousse, Strawberry Rhubarb Jam, and Almond Glaze Ty Leon, CHEF Mizuna DENVER “I wanted to use almonds a few different ways and had been playing with doughnuts a lot and wanted to do an almond-fl avored doughnut using almond fl our,” Leon says. “I made a foie gras mousse and folded in some almond butter that we had made. Foie gras and almonds go really well with strawberry and rhubarb, so we made a jam with those ingredients and we fi lled the doughnut with the mousse and jam. I then used almond milk to make a frost-

MIZUNA ing to ﬁ nish.”

20 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM

Chefs & Ingredients

Fried Caulifl ower Zachary Ridenhour, CHEF Sixth Engine WASHINGTON D.C. For this popular late-night snack, caulifl ower fl orets are battered, fried, tossed in a cooling sauce with Asian honey fl avors and garnished with toasted sesame seeds and scallions. “Great late-night food is something that has enough fl avor to get through to your palate even after you’ve had a few drinks,” Ridenhour says. “The fried

ENGINE cauliﬂ ower is sweet, spicy, and crunchy, but still a little different than

SIXTH your standard bar fare.”

Crackling Kale Mogan Anthony, CHEF For this gluten-free, vegan-friendly dish, Anthony crosscuts black kale and lightly dredges the pieces in chickpea batter before quickly frying them and dusting them with Indian RUSTIC THE gun powder, a spice blend he makes in-house using cay- enne pepper, tomato powder, and ground, toasted lentils. Calf Fries Pat Green, Kyle Noonan, and Josh Sepkowitz, OWNERS Village The Rustic Social DALLAS, SAN ANTONIO, AND MT. KISCO HOUSTON, TEXAS AND RYE, NEW YORK This dish, like an eccentric chicken nug- get, is a popular one in Texas, especially as hearty bar or late-night snack. The calf fries (yep, bovine testicles) are marinated in a mix of buttermilk and Tabasco sauce, and coated in a mixture of cornmeal, Old Bay seasoning, and other spices before being deep-fried until crisp and golden on the outside, tender on the inside. They SOCIAL are served with a dip made with fresh

VILLAGE lemon juice, Greek yogurt, and spices.

Boom Boom Shrimp Mike Turner, VP OF CULINARY/SUPPLY CHAIN Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar LOUISIANA AND TEXAS

One of Walk-On’s signature items, this starter and perfect late- BAR & night snack is made by hand-battering and frying shrimp that’s

then tossed in a sauce spiked with Cajun spices. The shrimp are BISTREAUX served on a bed of cabbage and garnished with green onions

and lemon wedges. WALK-ON’S

22 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM Chefs & Ingredients ns O

ati A retro hit on C nighthAwk’s lAte-

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C the restAurAnt’s Drunken French Oak toAst. White Munching at Midnight

Check out these full-service, late-night menu trends. By Mandy Ellis

rom guilty pleasures to include reinterpretations of retro cuisine, Andrew Curren, executive chef and indulge in after a night out Asian favorites, and—believe it or not— partner of Austin, Texas’ Elm Restaurant with friends to composed healthy, balanced meal options. Group which includes 24 Diner, says the F dishes to catch solo after key to getting late-night menus right is a 12-hour workday, full-service late- Sophisticated snacks focusing on variety, value, quality, and night menus capture a diverse audi- “Consumers are more open-minded than finding what fits your community’s ence of dark-hour diners. “It’s knowing ever, and, even when drunk, they have late-night needs. “Our cheeseburger is what the clientele looks for and basing better palates than five years ago,” says 10 ounces on a house-made bun with a the menu off your location,” says Tony Jeremy Fall, cofounder of J. Fall Group million things you can add. It provides Messina, executive chef and partner of which includes restaurants such as that variety and value with opportuni- Boston-based UNI. “What will your area Nighthawk: Breakfast Bar in Venice, Cal- ties to have restaurant-awesome food clientele spend money on?” ifornia, and Nighthawk AM in Chicago, relatively cheap.” Melding the must-haves and the meals among others. “[Menus have] become Minneapolis’ 112 Eatery’s late-night of the moment, midnight menus cater to more sophisticated. Even food trucks menu follows these rules. Executive chef the expanding audience of refined tastes. have crazy takes on traditional late-night and owner Isaac Becker sticks to fun-to- These days, plates served after 10 .. items like burritos.” eat staples like bacon sandwiches and

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm marCh 2018 23 Chefs & Ingredients ns O ati C mmuni O C Oak White / Diner 24 Meeting Diners’ late-night breakfast cravings, 24 Diner (top) offers sausage, egg, anD bacon sanDwicheD in a waffle, while nighthawk (bottoM) serves up a canDieD bacon breakfast burger (left) anD chicken anD biscuits (right).

24 marCh 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm Chefs & Ingredients

burgers paired with the more-refined night better than anyone are the Asian in whole meals, says Daniel England, cor- options of foie gras, oysters, and frog legs. markets,” Fall says. “ere’s a huge scene porate chef for OMG Hospitality Group in L.A. with Koreatown and Japanese including Union Kitchen & Tap in Cali- Bites of nostalgia restaurants as the go-to late-night food.” fornia. His entrée-sized, nutritious plates Reinterpretations play on classic com- like salads with a grilled steak, grilled fort, while tapping into trends of qual- A good, square meal chicken, or a fried egg and steak frites ity, value, and diversity. “We’re doing our Healthier, complete meals are coinciding meet that thriving need. Flatbreads are a take on redefi ned classics. It’s diff erent, with diners’ desire for variety as well as great option, too, England says, as they’re better iterations of what we know, and an better value in food and pricing. Custom- less dense than pizza and allow for cre- excuse to eat your guilty pleasure,” Fall ers are eating later, but want healthy food ativity with seasonal ingredients. says. “Nighthawk does breakfast for dinner. We have made-from-scratch gravy with maple habanero sausage and cheddar chive biscuits for our chicken and biscuits.” Benedict fries and drunken French toast also play well with Night- hawk ’s customers. At 24 Diner, Curren does tri-annual menu changes for increased variety, plus specials like chicken and dumplings. “We serve our menu 24 hours a day, but during late night, you never know what customers will order,” he says, “Some want breakfast sandwiches or waffl es, eggs, and bacon, and others want burgers or steak with fries. Our chili cheese fries, though, are one of our best late- night sellers.” Curren says old-school classics like boozy milkshakes and homemade Pop- Tarts are trends they’ve jumped on recently. After a successful limited-time release, 24 Diner is considering adding house-made Pop-Tarts permanently to its late-night repertoire. “Diners want comforts on late-night menus,” Cur- ren says. “Food [that] is emotional and brings back good memories or makes you feel good is perfect for late night.”

Reaching for ramen An on-trend option that has found its sweet spot on late-night menus is ramen and other Asian-inspired bites. “We have a good late-night ramen business, and we’re seeing diners requesting broth- less ramen like mazumen,” Messina says. “Additionally, consumers want untradi- tional sushi, so we’ve been selling more out-of-the-box rolls like burger or lobster BLT.” He also serves Korean-style scal- lion pancakes with seafood. “The market that understands late-

FOODNEWSFEED.COM MARCH 2018 25 SPIRITS BEER Cocoa Bittersweet Cravings, Endings Liquid Capitalized PAGE 33 PAGE 31 Intelligence

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Save Room for Dessert Wine THINKSTOCK

BY BEVERLY STEPHEN “IT’S THE WINE EVERYONE LOVES, but our guests order dessert wine,” says they don’t know they love it yet,” says sommelier Jeremy Schwartz of Frasca Boost sweet Keri Levens, wine director at Chefs Club in Boulder, Colorado. “Traditionally our wine sales with in New York. Such is the challenge and slightly older guests order dessert wine education and the opportunity dessert wines present. more often, possibly because there imagination. “Approximately 20 to 25 percent of was more of a tradition of dessert

26 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE WINE

wines in the past than currently.” e key to getting customers to order more dessert wine, says sommelier Jorge Tinoco of Dessert Wine 101 e Restaurant at Wente Vineyards in Livermore, How the sweet stuff is made. California, is “training, training, training… both servers and bartenders sell more when they have the knowledge and education to help customers Fortifi ed wines make a selection.” Fortifi ed wines are made by adding a distilled spirit Schwartz shares Tinoco’s sentiment. “If like brandy and typically have a higher alcohol con- the sommeliers, servers, and staff understand tent, usually around 17 to 20 percent. dessert wine, these wines will sell. ere defi - nitely is an opportunity to boost dessert wine BIG THREE: Port, Sherry, Madeira sales through by-the-glass, half-glass, or bottle OTHERS: Marsala, Muscat, Vermouth, Banyuls [options],” he says. And it doesn’t hurt to grab customers’ eyes with a catchy headline on the wine list like “Sticky and Sweet,” as Frasca does, Late harvest/noble rot wines or to promote dessert wines by pairing them Grapes are kept on the vines as long as possible to on tasting and holiday menus, as Frasca and concentrate the sugars; for noble rot wines specifi - Chefs Club do. cally, grapes are attacked by a fungus called botrytis, “With some menus, we have printed dessert which dehydrates the grapes and further concen- wine pairings under each dish—that at least trates the fl avor. plants the seed in the guest’s mind that they should try a dessert wine,” Levens says. “Pour- BIG THREE: Sauterne, Riesling, Tokaji ing guests a little complimentary taste is also a great way to gently educate and give them an opportunity to get to know the wines.” Dried grape wines Chef, bartender, and corporate sommelier Grapes are dried on straw mats to purposefully con- for iPic Entertainment, Adam Seger, who boasts centrate the sugars. an extensive collection of Madeira wine at e Tuck Room in New York, says the same. “Peo- BIG NAMES: Vin Santo, Recioto della Valpolicella ple don’t really order [dessert wine,] but once they try it, they like it,” he says. Seger delights in regaling guests with the history of Madeira and tying it into the location of e Tuck Room in the historic Seaport District. “If you lived in New York in the 18th or 19th centuries, you either drank ale or Madeira,” he says, explaining that Madeira withstood the tumultuous ocean voy- ages to the New World. It was the wine used to celebrate George Washington’s inauguration and the signing of the Declaration of Independence and the Louisiana Purchase. When pairing dessert wines with food, it helps to have some guidelines, advises Levens. “With dessert, I always use the rule that the wine must be as sweet as or sweeter than the dessert,” Levens says. “Port and Madeira are both great with chocolate and great on their own, as well, in the place of dessert.” But the most popular dessert wine at Chefs Club is defi nitely Moscato. “When I have a Moscato [on the menu], ROUSSILLON FORTIFIED WINES it moves the most,” Levens says. “I think peo- PAIR WELL WITH YOUNG ple feel familiar with it, it’s usually gently spar- DESSERT COURSES.

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Schwartz starts with tried and true food can help boost their popularity with custom- and wine matches. “Some classic dessert ers, too. On his cocktail list, Seger has incor- wine pairings include Sauternes and foie gras, porated Madeira into two cocktails: Govna’, Port and blue cheese, Banyuls and chocolate, which also includes rum, spiced New York Moscato d’Asti and fruit-based desserts/ ginger apple liqueur, and pimento bitters, tarts,” Schwartz says. At Frasca, he recom- and e Esquire, which is Malmsey Madeira mends a 2011 Villa Spinosa Recioto della Val- on hand-cut ice with wood-fi red evaporated policella Classico with the restaurant’s Baba maple and fresh nutmeg. Napoletano, which is a dessert made with Perry’s Steakhouse and Grille in Chi- brioche cake, coff ee, chocolate, and cherry. cago, where Susi Zivanovic serves as corpo- “Or something super simple like 2009 Badia rate sommelier and beverage director, used a Coltibuono Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Valentine’s Day as a hook to promote des- with a single biscotti,” he says. sert wines. e restaurant concocted cock- Tinoco matches a mascarpone cheese- tails like the PassionNut for Port featuring cake with a grapefruit-lemon swirl sorbet and Fonseca Bin No. 27 Port with Don Q coconut brown sugar crumble with a glass of 2015 rum, passion fruit puree, and lemon juice and Wente Vineyards Orange Muscat. For a dark encouraged customers to order one of the res- chocolate mousse dish with white chocolate taurant’s 18 dessert wines instead of actual crème, orange, and toasted hazelnuts, he dessert. “ere is more complexity in fortifi ed pairs Quinta do Noval Black Ruby Port. And and dessert wines than table wines because of for a cream puff with apple compote, vanilla the elaborate winemaking techniques used,” whipped panna cotta, and caramel, he rec- says Zivanovic. “is lends unique character- ommends 2011 Clos Guirouilh, Petit Cuy- istics that pair perfectly alongside rich fl avors, alaa, Jurançon. such as desserts, or can be enjoyed alone as Incorporating dessert wines into cocktails a dessert.”

SIPS APPEAL Bartenura Moscato

For a refreshing, slightly sweet and ﬁ zzy wine, look no further than Bartenura’s Moscato, made from Muscat grapes grown in the Asti appellation in Italy. “[It] is delicious both by itself, with sweet desserts including fresh fruit, or as a base to var- KNOWN FOR ITS ious cocktails,” says HIGH SUGAR AND LOW ALCOHOL Gabe Geller, the Royal CONTENT, Wine Co rp.’s wine blog- ROYAL TOKAJI’S ESSENCIA WINE ger and director of pub- MAKES FOR A lic relations and client DECADENT END services. Enjoy this crisp, TO ANY MEAL. fruity wine after dinner, or during dinner with spicy Asian fare or deep-fried Chinese. ASTI POMMER

ITALY ERIN

30 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM SPIrITS lIquId InTellIgence

An issue with using chocolate is that it has a high fat content, which can create mixing issues with many other liquids. It can be grainy when liquids are added. “So what many do is use a chocolate liqueur, like crème de cacao, to bring that hint of chocolate,” Williams says. “You can also do your own chocolate liqueur by taking chocolate nibs, which are the cocoa beans shattered to pieces, and steep them in a spirit like vodka.” Bitter chocolate is often preferred when developing cocktails, because a sweet chocolate may provide too much sweetness. Cocoa powder sometimes works, but unless the drink is something like a brandy alexander or the cocoa is a well-milled variety, there will be some grittiness, Williams explains. “It’s OK in a milkshake, but if you don’t have another fat component like ice cream, that hint of grittiness can be off-put- In collaboratIon wIth dylan’s ting,” she says. candy bar, For The Up Room bar in Chicago’s chIcago’s the up room developed The Robey hotel, chocolate plays a role

Fish Its worms In dIrt in a couple of the most popular cocktails cocktaIl.

Perry created by bar manager Tim Holling- sworth. “I have a culinary background, so my approach to cocktails comes from that culinary angle,” he says. “When it comes to chocolate, it takes a whole lot Cocoa Cravings, of tastings to figure out how you want to use it.” The Up Room’s cocktail Worms in Capitalized Dirt takes its cue from the dessert of the same name. It employs gummy worms from confectioner Dylan’s Candy Bar as both a garnish and to create a syrup to By Barney Wolf AMERICA LOVES COCKTAILS, and it loves choco- use around the rim of the glass so Oreos late. So, with both products experiencing growth, can stick to it. The cocktail is largely a When done why not put them together? The result has been an mudslide, made with not only crème de right, chocolate evolution of chocolate martinis, chocolate Man- cacao but homemade Irish cream that cocktails add hattans, and numerous cocktails featuring prod- has cocoa powder, too. luxury to bar ucts that range from chocolate-infused spirits But perhaps the most popular cock- menus. and chocolate liqueurs to chocolate nibs and Oreo tail at The Up Room is the From Islay cookies. Not surprisingly, “chocolate bars,” which with Love, which uses crème de cacao feature chocolate cocktails and chocolate desserts, along with two scotch varieties from have popped up around the country. the island of Islay, as well as dry curacao, But putting chocolate and spirits together lemon juice, crème de menthe, orange takes planning. “Not everything works,” says Pam bitters, egg white, and simple syrup. “The Williams, founder and lead instructor of Ecole egg white calms down the peatyness [of Chocolat, a chocolate-based cooking school with the scotch] and lets the chocolate and headquarters in Vancouver, British Columbia, and mint shine through,” Hollingsworth says. an office in San Francisco. “You are looking for fla- At Bailey’s Chocolate Bar in St. Louis, vors that complement each other.” the name says it all. “Chocolate is in

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm March 2018 31 Liquid inteLLigence SPiRitS

almost every drink we make,” owner David Balancing chocolate and alcohol is key to Bailey says of the establishment, which also making a great chocolate martini, explains features desserts, cheese boards, flatbreads, Irem Eren, wine director and events manager beer, and wine. “It is something we work hard at New York’s AYZA Wine & Chocolate Bar. to perfect, but we also want to make sure we The full-service restaurant features six choco- offer variety for our guests.” late martinis. “If it’s too sweet, it can be over- Of the 10 martinis on Bailey’s cocktail whelming,” she says. “Normally we prefer to menu, several employ vodka, including the use dark chocolate, because milk chocolate is Signature that has vodka steeped with choco- too sweet and too heavy.” Vodka is a perfect late nibs, Irish cream, and chocolate ice cream, spirit for chocolate because it has a neutral then blended and served in a martini glass. flavor, but whiskey also works well, “espe- Cocktails utilizing other spirits include the cially bourbon aged in old casks that have a Mexican, which features dark chocolate and chocolate note.” coffee liqueurs and tequila, and the Rocky One of the restaurant’s signature cocktails Road to Dublin that turns chocolate ice is the Chocolate Manhattan, with chocolate- cream, Irish whiskey, and walnut liqueur infused bourbon, sweet and dry Vermouth, “to the consistency of a milkshake,” Bailey and Angostura bitters, “which complement says. There is also a Mocha Manhattan that the sweetness and balances out [the taste],” she includes bourbon, bitters, and dark chocolate says. For the cocktails utilizing vodka, AYZA and coffee liqueurs. offers a Classic Chocolate Martini, which com- “You want to think of the flavor profile of bines vodka with cocoa di vine, a chocolate what you’re creating, so a highly herbaceous wine, with dark and cappuccino truffles. The gin probably doesn’t mix,” Bailey says. “But Espresso Chocolate Martini has vanilla vodka, you can get pretty creative. Remember, choc- Kahlua, chilled espresso, and crème de cacao. olate is either dark and rich or lighter and To finish each decadent drink, Eren tops the sweeter, so you need to adjust the liquors.” cocktails with pure dark chocolate shavings.

SiPS APPeAL Durham Distillery’s Damn Fine Chocolate Liqueur Made by hand in 50-gal- lon batches, this decadent chocolate liqueur is 70 percent Videri Chocolate Factory chocolate mixed with a Madagascar vanilla simple syrup, Crude Bit- ters, and vodka. “The mouthfeel is rich milk chocolate,” says Melissa Katrincic, president and CEO of Durham Dis- tillery. Pair in a cocktail with a smoky mezcal or

peaty scotch. Lu ra D Durham Cassan North CaroliNa chocolate is the star at Bailey’s chocolate Bar in st. louis.

32 MarCh 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COm Beer Liquid inteLLigence

RegaRdless of whetheR a desseRt is an enduRing classic, like an ice cReam cone,

tion oR paRt of an A innovative final couRse, theRe’s a Associ beeR out theRe to paiR it with. Brewers Bittersweet Endings

By Jeff cioLetti THE CONCEPT OF A DESSERT BEER is noth- was skeptical as well,” says John Holl, ing new, as there’s essentially a brew for every author of the “The American Craft Beer When pairing course (and every meal, for that matter). But just Cookbook: 155 Recipes from Your Favor- dessert with beer, as there’s a “been there, done that” comfort zone ite Brewpubs and Breweries.” “But when think beyond in main course pairings, there can be a tendency you think about it the right way, a nutty, a scoop of ice to be too safe when seeking the right match for a earthy carrot cake that’s a little sweet— cream and porter. dessert indulgence, as well. Sure, porters go great you’ll maybe get some raisins in there with vanilla ice cream, but sometimes that pair- [and] walnuts—those complement the ing can be a bit… well, vanilla. Here are a few des- caramel malts in IPA really well.” sert-beer pairings worth exploring. Meanwhile, resinous flavor elements, like those in Sierra Nevada Brewing IPA meets carrot cake Company’s Torpedo Extra IPA, or the Believe it or not, an ideal companion for a slice of tropical fruit notes of many hop vari- carrot cake is an IPA. Randy Mosher, author of etals are known to balance some of car- “Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s rot cake’s earthy sweetness. Even IPAs Greatest Drink” and “Beer for All Seasons: A that incorporate actual fruits like man- Through-the-Year Guide to What to Drink and gos and passionfruit can work. “It adds When to Drink It,” was the first to suggest such a a new dimension of fruit and perceived pairing, the discovery of which he calls “an epiph- sweetness to it,” Holl says. any.” Another option to complement car- “When I first heard about that combination, I rot cake is an imperial red ale. “[It] seems

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm MArch 2018 33 LIQUID INTELLIGENCE BEER

the crystal malt really picks up on the raisins, ting acid as well. For basic, unadorned cheese- spice, and fruit,” Mosher says. “ e cake is too cake, Oliver suggests dry-hopped sours. Big, sweet; the beer is way bitter. Together they boozy barleywines are another match for seem to annihilate each other.” some cheesecakes, as well as shortcakes and desserts with bitter chocolate elements. Quad meets crème brulée “Basically, I would look at moving away from ere are a number of dessert-themed beers residual sugar as the basis for pairing,” Oli- that try to mimic the fl avor of crème brulée, ver advises, “and look more toward roast, big but to go with the dessert, Holl advises malt fl avors, and cutting acidity.” something diff erent: a Belgian or Belgian- style quad. “You’re getting some fi g, plum, and dark stone fruit, and there’s a nice fl oral [quality] to it,” he says. “A quad and crème brulée match up to each other and complement each other as well.” e richness of the brulée pairs perfectly with the depth of fl avor of the Belgian. Additionally, the robust car- bonation of the quad scrubs the palate of rich, fatty elements, prepping it for the next bite.

Kriek meets chocolate When it comes to chocolate desserts, try not to fall into the culinary trap of pairing a brew with chocolatey notes. “Imperial stout and chocolate is an easy and natural pair that

nearly always works, but it’s very uncreative ASSOCIATION and ‘matchy-matchy,’” Mosher says. “So I’ve BREWERS taken to putting chocolatey beers with things STAY AWAY FROM BREWS WITH CHOCOLATEY SIPS APPEAL the fl avors go naturally with: caramel, nuts, NOTES WHEN PAIRING CHOCOLATE DESSERTS. and red fruit like cherries and raspberries.” Short’s Brewing For deep chocolate confections, Gar- Belgian meets apple pie Company’s Key rett Oliver, vice president and brewmaster ere may be nothing more American than at Brooklyn Brewery in New York, recom- apple pie, but as far as pairings are concerned, Lime Pie mends Belgian-style kriek (cherry) and fram- you’re going to want to look overseas for inspi- Capturing the main boise (raspberry) beers. e experience is not ration—particularly to Belgium. Mosher rec- components of the unlike eating chocolate-dipped berries. ommends a brew with caramel characteris- dessert this limited- tics, such as Kwak from Brouwerij Bosteels release beer is named Winter warmer meets pumpkin pie or Gouden Carolus Classic from Brouwerij for, Short’s starts with File this one away for the fall: Instead of pair- Het Anker. e pairing also works with more a golden ale with spe- ing pumpkin beer with pumpkin pie, grab a European apple fare, like strudel. cialty malts as a base, classic winter warmer. e cinnamon and then builds the fl avor clove elements common in such cold-weather Lager meets lime from graham cracker brews make for a tasty partnership with Like IPA, a crisp lager isn’t typically the fi rst crumbs, a small hop bill, pumpkin desserts. “When you get a winter style that comes to mind when one thinks lime juice, lactose, and warmer with a thicker body to it and [add of dessert, but certain well-made Mexican- marshmallow creme. To that to] the creamy consistency of pumpkin style lagers—which continue to be all the pair, head brewer Tony Hansen recommends a pie, it’s a nice sensory experience,” Holl says. rage among craft beer producers north of the simple scoop of vanilla border—can be quite the evocative selection. ice cream, “or, if you Sours meet cheesecake “ ink lime in a Corona,” Holl says. “You don’t want to get weird, cara- Few end-of-meal dishes embody “rich and want that [lime] tartness to be washed away mel bacon popcorn.” creamy” as much as cheesecake. Diners def- and you don’t want some of the subtleties of initely are going to want something that not the graham cracker crust to be washed away. 7.3% ABV only boasts healthy, palate-scrubbing carbon- [A Mexican-style lager] blends into the back- ELK RAPIDS, MICHIGAN ation, but something that has ample fat-cut- ground and lets the other elements shine.”

34 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM

Liquid inteLLigence HoLiday

36 march 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm HOLIDAY LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

Stock Up On Stout St. Patrick’s Day brings people together, and often they gather in a restaurant, especially if that restaurant has a bar. Bars are likely to see spikes in patron spending the SATURDAY AND SUNDAY PRECEDING THE HOLIDAY. The post-holiday weekend is tamer in comparison, but restaurants and bars are still likely to see INCREASED SALES. A night on the town during the St. Patty’s season is likely to land customers in AMERICAN RESTAURANTS, STAND-ALONE BARS, OR ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. Overall, restaurants could see a SALES UPTICK OF 10 PERCENT for the holiday. *COURTESY OF FIRST DATA'S 2015 SPENDTREND REPORT The Guinness Book More than 70 MILLION people gather to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day worldwide, according to Guinness, a subsidiary of British beverage company Diageo.

Guinness Beer By The Numbers

119.53 How long it takes a bartender SECONDS to make the “perfect pour”

The length of the lease Arthur Guinness 9,000 signed at the St. James Gate Brewery in YEARS Dublin, Ireland, in 1759

120 The number of countries COUNTRIES where Guinness beer is sold

The length of time Guinness was brewing 200 beer before the iconic, nitrogenated YEARS Guinness Draught was invented in 1959 THINKSTOCK

FOODNEWSFEED.COM MARCH 2018 37 EXECUTIVE INSIGHTS s + Grill G Win T Coas T

WINNING THE Eas WING WAR

Casual dining is t first glance, East Coast Wings + Grill’s growth plan struggling and might seem bold, perhaps even ambitious: Take a chicken-wing prices A 35-unit chicken-wing chain and build it beyond 100 are soaring, but one restaurants. Given the casual-dining landscape, brand has ﬁgured out where retraction—not expansion—is the buzzword, East Coast how to grow steadily— Wings would be bucking the trend. This is true without even men- tioning the challenges with chicken wings, which soared to his and proﬁtably. - toric prices in 2017, afflicting even the biggest brands in foodser- BY DANNY KLEIN vice (just look at Buffalo Wild Wings).

38 marCh 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm

EXECUTIVE INSIGHTS

But the reality about East Coast Wings is this: Anything cofounder and WHY BANK ON THE CASUAL-DINING SEC- CEO Sam Ballas says is researched and contemplated down to the grain. TOR FOR A CHICKEN-WING CONCEPT? This is not a brand that believes in “ballpark” fi gures. No, Ballas is driven I come from an investment-banking by EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortiza- background. I’m a big hedger. I love to be tion) and unit-level economics. The latter is the ironclad benchmark and as calculating as I can be, and we investi- predictive model by which the brand measures and plots its future. gated a limited-service [model]. We put That careful and calculated strategy helped East Coast Wings thrive in a couple of those out there to test those. the recession and continue to grow even as chicken-wing prices choked ey are still functioning. ey do fairly other concepts’ growth. In the fi rst half of 2017, the brand enjoyed same- decently. ey don’t do anywhere close to store sales growth of 18.5 percent and boosted its guest count by 13 per- what the full-service store does in both cent. Now the brand is evolving for the future, with a new logo, a new AUV and EBITDA. “2.0” store prototype, and an expanded menu beyond chicken wings that We are now actively pursuing that includes entrée skillets, desserts, and seasonal rotations (to go along full-service-style model. We came to with 65 craft-beer options). East Coast Wings plans to open 13–14 units fi nd out that when you have a small box, this year, pushing it past the 50-unit mark. you’re somewhat limited in the off erings, Ballas talked with FSR’s Danny Klein late in 2017 to discuss how the just due to size constraints of a kitchen. brand is bucking the casual-dining trend and winning the chicken-wing If you are a wing company, wing prices wars. soar, as they did in 2009 and 2010, and

(THIS INTERVIEW WAS EDITED FOR CONCISENESS AND CLARITY.) if that’s all you sell, then there is a pretty good chance that you will be in trouble, that you will have a depletion of sales or EBITDA or proﬁ tability. We thought that the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze for that style of marketplace. You also had to have large density abilities, and we are based in the South, which is more rural. We like the Southeast marketplace, because I think that’s the strongest region in the country.

WHAT’S THE SECRET TO EAST COAST WINGS’ STEADY GROWTH? I decided to grow this franchise model back in 2004. I wanted some absolutes to be put in place, and what I didn’t realize then that I realize today is that those absolutes have become the DNA of who we are as a brand. One of those absolutes is unit-level economics. I’m a ﬁ nancial-background corporate guy, but I’m Greek, so I grew up in the restaurant space. All my life my family has owned restaurants. I always wanted to take the experience of the hearsay in the family restaurant I grew up in and make that transferable “People will say, ‘Why haven’t you grown from one location to another as a fran- faster?’ Well, you can’t grow like a fast chise model. I would not grow the brand casual in full service and sustain leader- unless we had laser-like focus on sup- porting a franchisee on driving numbers ship-style numbers.” at the unit level. e other absolute that is just part of EAST COAST WINGS + GRILL SAM BALLAS HAS A FINANCIAL BACKGROUND AND BELIEVES UNIT-LEVEL ECONOMICS my DNA, having grown up in the busi- ARE KEY TO RESTAURANT GROWTH—AT EVERY LEVEL. ness—and it’s become a DNA of the

40 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM EXECUTIVE INSIGHTS The power of

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Our culinary experts are showing off again. It seems they just can’t help it. At Blount, quality & variety is our mantra and small-batch cooking our method, a process that faithfully preserves food quality, appearance and flavor. Our trademark New England Clam Chowder is made with an BYo BuRgeR + SweeT extreme amount of clam meat poTaTo FRieS slow cooked in a combination of clam broth and sweet cream “If you are a wing company, wing prices soar, and if with tender potatoes and just the that’s all you sell, then there is a pretty good chance right amount of spice. that you will be in trouble.” To learn more about Blount’s soups and premium prepared brand—is we would have the best-qual- erable, can it take you the next 10 years? foods, contact Blount at ity product in what we do. That absolute In 2015, I sat down with my team 800-274-2526. has become DNA of the brand. I’m very said to them, “I want to be able to make proud to say that 90–94 percent of our the changes necessary that gives me a product lines are all fresh-crafted lines. 10–12 year position against the compe- We have very few frozen products that tition.” we have to deal with.

rill The third absolute that has been WHAT ARE YOU DOING RIGHT THAT g + developing that is now becoming DNA OTHER FULL-SERVICE WING JOINTS

Wings is we want to grow smart. You have to AREN’T?

Coast have vision when you have a 10-year run; If you investigate the wing restaurant WWW.BLOUNTFINEFOODS.COM

East with the current look, the current deliv- space in the last two years and look at

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm MarCh 2018 41 EXECUTIVE INSIGHTS THINKSTOCK

42 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM Know other concepts out there, you will fi nd if you look at the historical data, we have that a lot of people in my space went full disclosure in our documentation as No Boundaries to a larger-box direction. ey went to a franchise model that it’s $650,000 to more sports-bar theming, more TVs and $1 million to develop one of our stores. stuff . And we made a decision to go the Next year that $1 million is going to drop opposite direction. We wanted to down- because the new model has been cheaper. size our box. We wanted to change con- ere are brands in my space where if struction materials to be able to develop you look at their last two to three years cheaper. of data, they’ve increased their develop- We wanted to be a dining experience ment to over $3 million. And their ratio that would not alienate my customer of sales is going to drop to or below 1:1 base, and that would capture millenni- ratio of sales to investment dollar. We als, who we’re now starting to build as are maintaining an almost two-and-a- a demographic. We’ve been very patient half times ratio of sales to investment in building this 2.0 model. Our fi rst one dollars, which is extremely attractive in opened up December 2016 in Harris- casual dining. burg, North Carolina, and we’ve been People will say, “Why haven’t you MAINE able to sustain, if not grow, our sales in grown faster?” because of all these great LOBSTER a box that could be 1,000 square feet numbers we have. Well, you can’t grow BISQUE smaller than previous boxes. Harris- like a fast casual in full service and sus- burg is a great example of the success of tain leadership-style numbers. the 2.0. at is a three-store franchise owner. Harrisburg is about 1,110 square HOW HAS TECHNOLOGY PLAYED A ROLE Culinary innovation. feet smaller than his other two locations, IN GROWTH? Inspired recipes. and his sales are sustaining the larger I think I’ll lean into that by saying that locations, and outperforming one of the about four years ago, during the reces- Simple, authentic two locations. ink about that win for a sion and this kind of heartache that Ingredients. location that can develop cheaper, oper- casual dining was having, we made a ate with less expense, but yet have the commitment that we wanted to under- Unsurpassed quality. same revenue sustainment. at in itself stand our patron base. In that commit- drives larger EBITDA, right? So it is very ment, we went to the marketplace to try It’s little wonder that Blount’s diffi cult in casual dining to be true to to fi nd vendors who could help us survey expanding line of premium driven-by-unit-level economics. your experience when you dine with us. soup is redefining popularity We found a good partner for that. e and performance in this must- HOW DO UNIT-LEVEL ECONOMICS PLAY A problem we had with that partnership FACTOR IN YOUR SUCCESS? and implementing that platform is we win category. Lobster Bisque is We own “driven by unit-level econom- had to fi gure out a way to reach you as always a hit with our boil-in-bag ics.” It is very diffi cult to multiply your a diner. How do I get you away from the convenience, reducing labor and locations and sustain this point in our very bland, traditional, fi ll-in-the-blank increasing profit. public disclosure documents where the comment cards and be a little bit inno- majority of the units are at or above our vative in technology? Find out more about the bench-makers. We measure everything Our solution was we attached that boundless potential of Blount that has a number to our unit level. platform to a loyalty program. I will tell soups by contacting us e 2.0 model has been excellent for you, if you go back and look four or fi ve at 800-274-2526. us as far as the ability to sustain and years ago, casual dining was not talk- grow sales in a smaller-box environment. ing loyalty programming when we were. We went to a rustic look. We went to a We were ahead of the curve, as small as reclaimed-table look. We went to diff er- we are, with our customer-based loy- ent construction components that save alty program. How do we reward you for money. We were able to actually drop staying loyal and keep rewarding you for in the last two 2.0 stores an average of bringing your dollars to East Coast, and 22 percent in development costs, which how do we keep that engagement with is a balance-sheet cost, not an EBITDA you moving forward? WWW.BLOUNTFINEFOODS.COM drive. But that’s very attractive, because In those phases, our loyalty pro-

FOODNEWSFEED.COM MARCH 2018 43 rill g + Wings Coast East As smAll As EAst CoAst Wings + grill is, thE ChAin hAs bEEn AhEAd of thE gAmE With CustomEr loyAlty tEChnology, WhiCh brings dollArs bACk to thE brAnd. gram was a huge benefactor of our abil- in demographic segmentation. Most ity to attract dollars back to the brand, franchise systems in casual dining at or increase the ticket average. You saw our level couldn’t afford to use some of that we had body-count increases in the those platforms. first half of 2017. Some of our same-store We implemented a lot of strategy sales was of course that body-count early in 2016 because it was the first year increase. The other part of that same- in the history of the brand that we felt store sales increase was the ability to a little tightness. And we had a couple raise the ticket average. of months in some negative same-store We decided that we didn’t want to sales. Now, we’re not immune to some have our mobile and online ordering normal business cycling. We haven’t seen be a borrowed black-label platform. We that in most of our 13 years of existence wanted that to be something that we as a franchise model, and we felt some owned. We went to the marketplace of that in 2016. But because of our DNA early last year and basically developed being unit-level effective and driven, we our own platform, and then what we were able to move quickly in the decision did—which most casual dining chains process and, because we lead by example don’t do between zero and 100 units— with EBITDA, we had the capital to do we went to the marketplace last year and what was necessary to be done. By the initiated some relationships with some middle of Q3 2016 we were implement- of the top-tier companies. We imple- ing the strategy, which showed us the mented Paytronix’s loyalty program, fruit results by end of June 2017. for example. We implemented Olo for our mobile app. We implemented Bux- HOW HAVE FRANCHISEES RESPONDED ton out of Texas, which is a very expen- TO THESE TECHNOLOGY INITIATIVES? sive platform that helps you understand Our loyalty program and some strategic your marketability, density usage of your movement with our mobile and online patrons, and potential revenue source ordering helped our ticket average; our

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm IGNAT ES IO D N D O E F T

C R

I T

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EXECUTIVE INSIGHTS mobile and online ordering ticket aver- “Our mobile and online ordering ticket average is age is almost 42 percent higher than the average of a traditional patron that almost 42 percent higher than the average of a tra- comes through the door. That’s a huge ditional patron that comes through the door. That’s number. The key is that when you have a sound a huge number.” financial model as a corporate struc- ture—especially a franchise model— tive, your franchisee is going to embrace with the opening team for a store. That and you see opportunity strategically and execute right. is unheard of in the franchise model. to ﬁnd growth revenue dollars, and you That is probably our secret weapon: Franchisees don’t volunteer a week of have the capitalization be able to make that the franchisee was able to execute their time to go with a corporate team that distinctive move, to make it fast. the strategy we put in place in mid-2016. to Memphis, for example, and open an Our success is a combination of the abil- It took a year cycle to start showing that East Coast Wings + Grill. We have fran- ity of the brand to utilize strategic plat- fruit of labor and execution. chisees who believe that the integrity of forming and technology with the DNA the units has to be intact immediately to of quality food and the best franchisees HOW MUCH DO YOU CREDIT FRANCHI- the point where they want to be vested in my space. Ultimately, the execution of SEES TO EAST COAST WINGS’ SUCCESS? in the process. the numbers are at the unit level, and We’ve got one thing coming: Blow the Some people would say, “Why do you if the franchisee has the right support franchising model in casual dining out want to give away your cool tools to all mechanisms, has the validation of that of the world. We have opening teams to the other franchise models?” Because support mechanism based on previous open stores. We came to an understand- they don’t have the same franchisees I historical data and their own experience, ing that we probably should have some have. You might give away the farm, but then when you put out a strategic initia- of our leading franchisees on the ground can they make the ﬁeld grow corn?

Crawﬁsh Mac and Cheese

Mac and Cheese with Barilla can go places way beyond the kids’ menu. This ‘Nawlins version features crawfish and a trio of cheeses – goat, ricotta and Parmesan – to please a grownup crowd. Barilla shells add a subtle nod to the sea and a signature al dente bite. Serve mac and cheese in ramekins as an app or hors d’oeuvres, or larger dish as an entrée.

Visit BarillaFS.com for the full recipe.

46 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM

RISING STARS

IT’S KISMET FOR RESTAURANT OWNERS SARA KRAMER AND SARAH HYMANSON, WHO LEFT NEW YORK IN 2015 FOR SUNNIER SKIES AND THAT FRESH CALIFORNIA PRODUCE. BARNES MELISSA

48 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM RISING STARS

# dark chocolate 1 2 brand

10 0 % PURE 40 Under 40 cocoa butter

Chefs, owners, bartenders— Premium some barely in their 30s—fill this year’s list of Rising BRAND Stars, the folks to watch in 2018. This list shows stars they’ll pay more for 3 can be born anywhere, in as expected a place as under the tutelage of Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin or, quite the opposite, washing dishes in a family restaurant or taking a job bussing tables just to break into the industry. Take note, this year in particular, of how these chefs and restaurateurs embody a new wave of restaurant professionals. They are more creative, innovative, and bold than ever before. The duo our story begins with is no exception: Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, starlets of the burgeoning Los Angeles restaurant scene, are bringing more than revolutionary food to the table. Get a FREE 25-lb. sample at DOVEBakingChips.com

By Amanda Baltazar, Barney Wolf, Danny Klein, Laura D’Alessandro, Mary Avant, and Sam Oches

WEST

Sara Kramer, 32 Sarah hymanSon, 31 Owners Kismet | Los AngeLes

With A cross-country move and the opening of two successful restaurants all within three short years, the New York expats behind Kismet in Los Angeles are thinking big. Sara Kramer, 32, and Sarah Hymanson, 31, met while working in the Brooklyn restaurant scene. After an inspiring visit to Los Angeles, they planned a cross-country move to open two restaurants—a falafel shop and a full-service spot—serving uncomplicated, delicious food with Middle Eastern inspiration. For many who follow their dreams to the City of Angels, becoming a star can be a rAbbit for tWo: A feAst With fLAky long hard journey full of rejec- breAd, greens, OREN tion. But Kramer and Hyman- pickLes, tAhini, K And LAbneh. RIANA son were welcomed with open O arms and are rising to stardom the AgLicoLA quickly. cocktAiL. First, there was falafel. Upon arrival, the downtown Los Angeles food hall Grand Cen- tral Market approached Kramer and Hymanson about the location of their falafel shop, where lines now form for the traditional Middle Eastern sandwich served with all the fixings. It comes red or green. Red is served with tomato, cabbage, pickles, tahini, and basil. Green is served with cauliflower, fen- nel, labneh, and cilantro. Kramer and Hymanson were also quickly approached by business partners John Shook INDEMAN

and Vinny Dotolo to host a L AKE pop-up dinner at their highly J

RISING STARS

acclaimed Fairfax restaurant Ani- Behind the scenes, Animal ect is, but one thing is for cer- mal. Another partnership was owners Shook and Dotolo serve as tain—they’ll be keeping active born that night. operating partners to Kramer and roles in all their projects for the “I think they were totally look- Hymanson. Their already-existing foreseeable future. ing just to feel us out to see if we restaurant consortium provides “I love to cook, I always want would be good potential part- Kramer and Hymanson with the to cook,” Hymanson says. “So, ners,” Hymanson says. “I’m pretty administrative support that allows there’s that.” sure that night we started to have them to spend more time on staff, Even with the best employ- the conversation about working culture, and menu. The arrange- ees possible, which Kramer says together.” ment has been ideal, Hyman- the duo arguably has, there’s a Kismet opened in January of son says. And the pair are already certain level of involvement they 2017. The sleek, modern restau- working on another project. must maintain. rant on Hollywood Boulevard “I think the fact that we’re even “It’s important for us to main- seats about 50 at connecting discussing another project would tain a presence and to keep moti- tables and is open for all-day ser- be out of the question without vating and to keep our involve- vice. Kramer and Hymanson can their support,” Kramer says. “The ment high for everyone’s sake, often be seen in the restaurant, success of Kismet and us being for our own and for our staff,” Hymanson in the open kitchen able to maintain both businesses Kramer says. “And we want to. We and Kramer greeting guests is definitely in part due to their love what we created, we love from the neighborhood commu- assistance.” our community, so it would feel nity who make a regular meal of The young chefs are tight- strange not to be involved on a shakshuka. lipped about what the next proj- very regular basis.”

potatoes with labneh, macadamia nut, cured scallop, and urfa pepper. OrEn K nA IA Or RISING STARS

Taylor Houseman, 23 cept was a struggling 19-unit brand. guests, and owners are also satis- ExEcutivE chEf & PartnEr Velasco helped to transform it into fied in their needs along the way. Queensborough | San Diego a family-friendly sports grill with The Johnson & Wales Culinary more than 30 locations. She intro- Institute graduate finds that The Taylor HouSeman likes to mix duced new brand guidelines, mod- Herbfarm’s environment is enrich- things up and play off the concept ernized marketing campaigns, and ing, allowing him to work within a of a melting pot for the food he initiated a new fan base that turned core philosophy while building on dishes at Queensborough. into a loyal following. various concepts, projects, and “I love to draw upon ideas, fla- “Evolving a brand involves taking experiences. vors, and themes for dishes from all risks, and [that] gave me the deter- cultures and traditions, then com- mination and persistence to stay bine and revamp them in my per- true to course,” she says. “Native sonal way,” he says. “I love to bring Grill & Wings provides a great bal- together creative flavors that you ance of collaboration and autonomy, wouldn’t really expect to see on a which fuels innovation and keeps plate together, but which balance the brand evolving. I’m constantly each other out on the palate in a challenged, and there’s nothing bet- surprisingly complementary way.” ter than the feeling of accomplish- This career is, pun intended, tai- ment at the end of the day.” lor-made for him. “I love the long nights, the grittiness, and the hard work, collaborating with like- minded human beings [and] feeling completely unrestricted with the extent of my culinary creativity,” he says. JonaTHan Granada, 32 chEf DE cuisinE otium | loS angeleS

JonaTHan granaDa’S Career began at Thomas Keller’s French bistro, Bouchon, but he spent his CHris Weber, 31 off days staging at The French chEf laundry, where he eventually The Herbfarm worked his way up while learning WooDinVille, WaSHingTon from numerous inspiring chefs. one of those chefs was Tim Hol- lingsworth, who brought Granada noT only iS CHriS Weber the to los Angeles in 2015 to help TH or youngest chef overseeing an Amer- open his contemporary restaurant,

INGSW ican five-diamond restaurant, but otium. Granada’s creativity was fur-

Holl he’s also instrumental in its impres- ther on display when he won last INE

rol CynTHia VelasCo, 28 sive local-food program, whether year’s Grand Cochon King of Porc A

/ C DirEctor of MarkE ting it’s working with various producers competition. AN rm E Native Grill & Wings or foraging for mushrooms or over- The education Granada received mm I Z CHanDler, arizona seeing the eatery’s farm. at The French laundry “has roN “I see our kitchen as one that become the foundation of my /

INGS operates in a somewhat linear career,” he says, and he wants to

+ W + WHen CynTHia VelaSCo

ll embarked fashion, starting with our produc- emulate his mentors by passing I

Gr on her career with Native Grill & ers and ending with me,” he says, along the skills he learned from ATIVE

N Wings, the Arizona-based con- adding that he makes sure cooks, those around him.

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm mArCH 2018 49 RISING STARS

LIONEL UDDIPA, 33 EXECUTIVE CHEF & PARTNER Salt | JUNEAU, ALASKA

LIONEL UDDIPA STARTED OUT washing dishes in his family’s Juneau, Alaska, diner. He graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in Atlanta in 2008 and then worked and staged around the country, including cooking in several Michelin-starred venues, because he was “hungry for more.” When he returned home one holiday to visit his family, he real- ized nobody there was doing the heightened cuisine he was doing, making for a perfect opportunity. As executive chef and partner at Juneau’s Salt, Uddipa serves what he calls Alaskan cuisine: food sourced in Alaska, preserved through the spring and summer months. It’s everything from fer- menting and pickling to making TYLER GUGLIOTTA, 32 charcuterie and freezing. CHEF & OWNER A third-generation chef, Uddipa Baran’s 2239 | HERMOSA BEACH, CALIFORNIA is also Filipino, and strives to have at least one dish from his native country on the menu, such as AFTER KICKING OFF HIS FOOD SERVICE CAREER at Fleming’s Steakhouse dur- lumpia or adobo. His job, he says,

ing college, Tyler Gugliotta hopped from restaurant to restaurant through- is all about mixing old and new. “I INSTITUTE out Los Angeles, holding sous chef, executive sous chef, and executive chef love cooking avant garde, some- roles at establishments like Brix @ 1601 and The Tasting Kitchen. thing that is forward moving,” he MARKETING His most recent and proudest accomplishment to date? Partnering in his says. “Everyone knows what lumpia

very own Hermosa Beach restaurant—Baran’s 2239—where he serves as is, so I enjoy deconstructing it in SEAFOOD executive chef in the ﬁ ne-dining eatery. ways they’ve never seen before and ALASKA

/ Mentorship plays a big role in Gugliotta’s approach to being a chef and mixing some comfort with it and restaurateur. “If I can teach someone to do something and they become making sure this dish has all the ﬂ a- 2239

better at it than I am, then I consider that the ultimate success,” he says. vor proﬁ les.” BARAN'S

50 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM RISING STARS

Melissa King, 33 Chef & Owner Co+lab | San FranciSco

MoSt cheFS who train in Michelin- star kitchens under luminaries like ron siegel and dominique Crenn go on to open their own restaurants. But Melissa king has blazed her own totally unique trail in foodservice. after studying at the Culinary institute of america and working in kitchens for eight years, king decided she wanted some more balance and variety in her life and went independent. That at first included a partnership with kitchit, a tech platform that matched chefs with private cooking opportunities, and later the foundation of her own pop-up dinner series, Co+lab. “one day i can be in a kitchen training chefs, another day i might be developing recipes in front of my computer at home, and another day i might be demoing at a food festival or on a speaking panel,” she says. “i feel really grateful to have supportive people in my life cheering me on to accomplish more and more each day.” the Co+lab project, which king founded after she placed as a final- ist on season 12 of “top Chef,” focused not only on hyper-local ingredients, but also other local artisans whom she involved in the events. the Co+lab pop-up dinners are on hiatus, but king has plans to expand the brand. in the meantime, she serves as a brand ambassador for Whole foods Mar- ket, through which she helps promote sustainability and high- quality ingredients while also developing creative flavors and ideas. she also hopes to eventually PhY open restaurants, write cookbooks,

Photogra and even start a nonprofit.

Yee as king says, “it’s only the usan s beginning.”

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm MarCh 2018 51 RISING STARS

which dishes premium coffee and bagels. But his mission extends far beyond the food he serves. Templeton is dedicated to prac- ticing and preaching sustainability. “i hope to leave a strong impact on the San Diego scene—not only with my food, but also with the little things i have done to reduce our carbon footprint,” he says. “We still have such a long way to go, but hopefully i can and have inspired some people to make different choices that impact our planet in a positive manner.”

Tyler ShipTon, 34 A decision to change scenery ExEcutivE chEf led him to San Diego, where he BO-beau Kitchen + Garden became executive chef at French- La Mesa, CaLifornia and comfort-food restaurant BO- beau Kitchen + Garden. A self-described “free spirit,” GrowinG up on a faMiLy farM in Shipton wants to continue to excel Minnesota, Tyler Shipton learned and grow in the ever-changing culi- about food and cooking at a young nary landscape while managing to age. He eventually became a pre- maintain a positive work/life bal- mier emerging chef in Minneapolis, ance. He wants “to keep things fun, peTra polaKovicova, 39 working with James Beard Award– fresh, and interesting so that i don’t WinE DirEctor winning chefs and running highly get burnt out like so many do in this epiC Steak | san franCisCo praised kitchens. industry.”

peTra poLaKoviCova has come a long way, from her native Slovakia to Kevin TempleTon, 35 San Francisco where she started as ExEcutivE chEf a busser. polakovicova worked her AK Te S The Smoking Gun, way through various jobs in the Bay C epi

Barleymash, & Spill the Beans Area until she became a certified / pHy san DieGo sommelier in 20 07. Two years later, she became epiC’s wine director. pHOTOGRA n n

“i love the fact that it is always SO

Chef Kevin TeMpLeTon leads the changing and always dynamic,” she Wil AlTeR W

kitchens at three popular San Diego says. “There are new developments /

restaurants: Barleymash, a pizza every day, and we need to stay up RO G

joint with a killer bourbon and beer knowledgeable and keep learning.” nT RA selection; The Smoking Gun, boast- polakovicova was recently named u STA Re

ing cocktails and modern takes on an advanced sommelier from the n OH street food; and Spill the Beans, Court of Master Sommeliers. C

52 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm RISING STARS

“Keep things fun, fresh, and interesting.” oup R

G Tyler ShipTon’S love

ant of organic, SeaSonal R food allowS him To creaTe inSpired, locally Restau Sourced menuS wiTh The

Cohn freSheST ingredienTS.

FooDneWsFeeD.Com March 2018 53 RISING STARS

MIDWEST

Joe Flamm, 31 Rachael lowe, 38 “And if you’re going to cook Ital- ExEcutivE chEf BE vEragE DirEctor ian food in Chicago, for me, the Spiaggia | ChiCago Spiaggia | ChiCago obvious choice was Spiaggia,” says Flamm, who also held jobs at Table 52 and Stephanie Izard’s Girl and Joe Flamm likes to Joke he’s only But their accolades and ability have the Goat. In 2014, Flamm jumped a VIP by association in Chicago’s something to do with that, as well. at a Spiaggia sous chef opportunity big-league restaurant world. “She’ll Flamm reverently refers to Lowe’s and worked his way up. ask me, ‘How’d you get in there?’ I resume as “obscene.” Her flair for Spiaggia has seen its share of told them I know you,” Flamm says. flavor and revelry began on her fam- mega-watt chefs come through the He’s referring to Rachael Lowe, the ily’s 17-acre farm in Michigan. door, including James Beard–win- 38-year-old beverage director of “It was always kind of ingrained ning Sarah Grueneberg and Missy Windy City institution Spiaggia and in me that that you make time for Robbins, who leads Brooklyn res- the other half of one of Chicago’s good food and good company,” taurant Lilia. most exciting culinary duos. she says of her upbringing. Flamm is fully aware of the res- In addition to being the execu- Like Flamm, Lowe says their taurant’s reputation for chef pres- tive chef of Spiaggia—a four-star Spiaggia relationship has made her tige. But it wasn’t until a 2017 trip Italian eatery run by Tony Man- a better culinary professional. through Italy that everything tuano, winner of the 2005 James “As Joe and I have worked clicked. He spent two days at Del Beard award for Best Chef: Mid- together more closely through- Pescatore, the three-star Michelin west—Flamm might now be best out the last few years, we’ve really restaurant in Canento Sul’Oligo recognized from Bravo TV’s latest learned from each other about where Mantuano worked in 1984 season of “Top Chef.” But outside what works and what doesn’t,” before founding Spiaggia. of the TV spotlight, the 31-year-old Lowe says. “I’ve always felt like Spiaggia was chef has spent the past three-and- Flamm’s palate also stems from a super special restaurant. I felt like a-half years working with Lowe. his upbringing, when he cooked it was a really hard restaurant to “When we create the new tast- Italian meals with his grandmother. draw parallels to, and draw inspira- y ing menu, beside Tony and my sous But he was working his way through tion of how we create this food,” he chefs, the first person who looks at Chicago kitchens cooking pretty says. “Del Pescatore was the first HOTOGRAPH P it is Rachael Lowe,” Flamm says. much everything before he heeded place I went where it was like a light S ne Both Flamm and Lowe credit some well-timed advice from a went off. I was like, ‘OK, I get it. I ALDO G

/ Mantuano for fostering a collab- coworker at BellyQ who suggested get what inspired Tony and [wife] AAS orative environment you just don’t he dive into Italian food profession- Cathy [Mantuano] 35 years ago to H ATT see in today’s restaurant culture. ally. make this restaurant.” M

54 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm RISING STARS

AT SPIAGGIA IN CHICAGO, JOE FLAMM CRAFTS HANDMADE PASTA. HIS PALATE WAS SHAPED BY HIS

HAAS ITALIAN UPBRINGING WHERE HE COOKED MATT ALONGSIDE HIS GRANDMOTHER.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM MARCH 2018 55 RISING STARS

product of her craft. samantha oyen, 25 “i tend to think that beverages sous chef are, at best, good,” she says. “it’s Brazen open Kitchen & Bar rarely about what’s in the glass. it’s Dubuque, iowa about how you receive it.” With less than a decade of experience behind the bar, de oliveira after Culinary sChool, saman- has fast made a name for herself as tha oyen began her career work- one of chicago’s top cocktail tal- ing on a cruise ship, which she says ents. introduced her to different places, De oliveira now serves as Bev- cultures, and foods. erage Director at a duo of south now she’s sous chef at Brazen american concepts, el che Bar and where she is developing manage- la sirena clandestina, giving her ment skills while honing her cook- the opportunity to connect with her ing. “every day is an adventure with family’s Brazilian roots. something new to learn,” she says. elegance competition hosted by the “After five years in the industry, I iowa Pork Producers association. haven’t even touched the surface of “the people and environment i Kevin BurKe, 29 the world of food.” surround myself with are positive PresiDent always hungry for more, oyen and encourage me to do the best i last year placed first in the Taste of can,” she says. Jimmy’s egg eDmonD, oklahoma

it DiDn’t take long for Julieta campos to uncover her passion for experimenting with liquids. as a child, she remembers mixing together cleaning solutions to make a long list of colorful concoc- tions. Years later, she moved on to cocktails, whipping up craft creations at chicago bars like roka akor, the Berkshire room, and Queen Mary tavern. now campos leads the beverage team at the Whistler, a cocktail in the four years sinCe Kevin bar/music venue/art gallery that’s Burke took the helm at Jimmy’s Julieta Campos, 27 made many major magazines’ best- egg, the breakfast-lunch chain has Beverage Director of lists. Most recently, campos was doubled in size to 60 units and the Whistler | ChiCago nominated for the 2018 Jean Ban- is actively expanding its regional

quet award for Best Mixologist. footprint. estina D

“i’ve had a unique opportunity lan c to be trained by multiple founders irena

of different restaurant companies,” la s

JaCyara de oliveira, 28 he says. “Understanding the fun- Bar he

Beverage Director damentals of those businesses has el c / el che Bar & la sirena provided me with invaluable lessons that i apply daily.” clandestina | ChiCago Whistler he Burke looks to continue build- t / ing hospitality companies “to cre- o. Despite making a Career in the ate new opportunities for our team Gn c Desi beverage industry, Jacyara de members while improving the com- antic G

oliveira has few illusions about the munities we do business in.” Gi

56 March 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm RISING STARS

SOUTH

ming Pu, 27 e xeCutive Chef & Partner The 502 Bar & Bistro ProsPeCt, KentuCKy

ming Pu has Plenty to be proud of at the tender age of 27—for example, that he’s the executive chef and co-owner of The 502 Bar & Bistro, and that he’s also been the coordinating chef of two James Beard House dinners in New York City. Pu helped develop and open The 502, which is just outside Louisville, in 2015. He describes Leigh OmiLinsky, 33 the restaurant’s menu as new ling potato confit and a ginger Pastry Chef American. “I take modern and orange beurre blanc.” nico osteria | ChiCago classic techniques and apply Pu attributes much of his suc- them to different ingredients cess to his mentor, Chef Peng S. and dishes,” he says. “For exam- Looi. “He taught me about the When her dreams of being a jazz ple, we sous-vide our hanger industry and how to run an effi- pianist fell flat due to a fear of per- steak, and it’s served with finger- cient kitchen.” forming before an audience, Leigh Omilinsky decided, at the age of 15, to cook. And it wasn’t just any type art and sCienCe merge in ross of cooking; she wanted to be a pas- Evans’ desserts. “The defining try chef. point of the pastries we create “I wanted to do this because is the care and manipulation we it’s prettier and, being young, I take with each ingredient and just wanted to make things pretty,” understanding how the ingre- omilinsky says. dients work with one another to She’s been at Nico Osteria, create textures and flavors that based in Chicago’s Thompson Hotel, dance upon the palate,” he says. for nearly three years. One Off Hos - Evans’ favorite ingredient is choc- pitality Group, the Paul Kahan–led olate, which he uses to create

d Chicago empire that owns Nico showpiece sculptures, a method OO w Osteria, encourages learning and that “is the best way to express OLLY

H teaching, Omilinsky says, which my value as an artist.”

OCK gives her room to learn and grow. He says his job never gets d R

AR And that’s what she loves about her old. “I love creating new plating H job: every day she can experiment. designs along with artistic choc- INOLE

Em ROss evans, 28 Just 33, Omilinsky’s already olate sculptures while continuing / S e xeCutive Pastry Chef been named Jean Banchet Rising to push the boundaries.” TRITE S Pastry Chef of the Year in 2012 and Hard Rock Hollywood Among many awards, he has ARAH Hotel & Casino / S Jean Banchet Pastry Chef of the received the gold medal choco- IST Year in 2013, and listed in Zagat’s holly Wood, Florida late showpiece award from the HLOE L C “30 under 30” in 2013. American Culinary Federation.

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm mARCH 2018 57 RISING STARS

riley oates has made significant contributions to the Cowford Justin lavenue, 29 Chophouse, including meat selec- Co-owner & operator tion, kitchen design, menu tastings, The Roosevelt Room and training. austin, texas Oates graduated from Le Cor- don Bleu in Paris, which taught her that she was destined for a culinary career. “I love the creativity, ingenuity, and heart in cooking,” Oates says. “The culinary world is ever changing, Riley Oates, 28 so there is always something new SouS Chef to learn and try. You have to love Cowford Chophouse this to want to be in it day in and Jacksonville, Florida day out, but there is no better or more exciting career around.”

Justin lavenue Found his calling when he began bartending in college. He fell in love with the craft and set his sights on starting a business—perfect for his marketing and business degree from the university of Colorado. lavenue opened his first two establishments, The Roosevelt room and the eleanor, by age 26. He was named North America’s Most Imaginative Bartender by the u.s. Bartenders Guild in 2015. that same year, he was named Bar Ten- der of the year by eater, food & JOsé Meza aRRóyave, 29 an even greater appreciation for Wine’s Best New Mixologist, and e xeCutive Chef the food of his homeland. he graced the cover of GQ mag- Jalisco Norte | dallas In late 2017, he brought his pas- azine’s special “Men of the Year” sion for autentic flavor to Dal- issue. iller

las, opening Jalisco Norte, a spot While his creativity wins him M though he grew up in Mex- where diners can enjoy both clas- awards, his business savvy is driving him forward. Lavenue plans to ico with a love for Mexican flavors, sic Mexican dishes and modern ran / alex t ingredients, and dishes, it was José takes on his country’s cuisine. “Hav- continue opening unique estab- Arróyave’s experience cooking out- ing the chance to come to America lishments with his business partner, side of the country—with roles at and share my passion and the cul- Dennis Gobis. Rene Redzepi’s NOMA in Copen- ture and recipes of my home coun- “we have five concepts that we Chophouse / Kathy hagen, as well as other eateries in try is what makes me proud,” Arróy- would like to bring to life sometime D

Spain and Belgium—that gave him ave says. in the next five years,” he says. Cowfor

58 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm RISING STARS

she wanted in, so she decided to skip grad school and join the oper- ation. in the past decade, the mother- daughter duo has grown the company into a mini-empire. The Chef’s Garden Catering & events forged an exclusive relationship with the Cummer museum of art & Gar- dens, including the creation of the Cummer Café. then, in 2013, after meeting pete and allison Berringer, earnest helped invent the Candy apple Café & Cocktails, a french- meets-southern-cuisine restaurant known for its craft-candy cocktail program. the restaurant has to gar- nered many accolades.

Amir HAjimAleki, 32 ExEcutivE chEf & OwnEr district Kitchen + Cocktails | Austin, texAs

the decision by Amir hAjimAleki’s pArents to leave iran for the u.s. when he was young was obviously life-altering. “it blessed me with the opportunity to fuel my passion for food and open my own restaurant concepts,” he says. the chef-owner, his brother, and his uncle launched their restaurant without investors, developing it into a go-to destination in austin. a second eat- josepH ZerwAs, 36 ery, oasthouse Kitchen + Cocktails, opened a few years later. fOrmEr ExEcutivE chEf Known for stretching boundaries on his menus, hajimaleki enjoys incor- Bacon Bros. public house porating Middle Eastern flavors into his menus “among other ele ments I’ve sugAr lAnd, texAs picked up from my classical french training and studies of Japanese culture.”

joseph ZerwAs hAd AlreAdy been executive chef of a top- ett

K jennifer eArnest, 35 ranked houston catering company lun

p cO-OwnEr and run a pop-up kitchen when hel a chance meeting led to him tak-

raC the Candy apple Café & / Cocktails & The Chef’s ing the helm of Bacon Bros. public arnest House’s expansion into Texas. e Garden Catering & events he took the position partially jAcksonville, FloridA

Jennifer to learn from anthony Gray, noted of executive chef of the original Bacon jenniFer eArnest trAded in her Bros. in south Carolina. “Being Courtesy

/ textbooks restaurant street smarts. able to collaborate with him on tails

CK while at college, earnest watched special event menus has been an Co

+ her mother, Liz, start The Chef’s honor,” he says. hen C Garden, a catering company that Zerwas hopes to own his own Kit

Ct would grow into one of Jackson- Bacon Bros. units someday. “It’s a istri d ville, Florida’s preeminent venues. challenge i take seriously,” he says.

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm marCh 2018 59 RISING STARS

MID ATLANTIC

HARI CAMERON, 35 DAVE GOLDMAN, 39 OWNER & EXECUTIVE CHEF HEAD BREWER & OWNER a(MUSE.) Urban Village Brewing Co. REHOBOTH BEACH, DELAWARE PHILADELPHIA

GARY HUETHER JR., 37 COFOUNDER & PRESIDENT Arooga’s Grille House and Sports Bar HARRISBURG, PENNSYLVANIA

BY COMBINING an old-fashioned notion of exceptional service and THERE WAS A TIME when seeing high-quality food with a modern the small, sandy town of Rehoboth focus on the environment, Gary Beach, Delaware, pop up on James Huether Jr. has positioned Arooga’s Beard lists would be surprising. Grille House & Sports Bar to fl ourish. TO SAY DAVE GOLDMAN is a restau- Chef Hari Cameron changed that. In the decade since the fi rst Aroo- rant professional of many talents After being named a semifi nalist for ga’s opened in Harrisburg, Pennsyl- would be a vast understatement. Rising Star Chef of the Year in 2013, vania, it has grown to 16 units in six He’s the cofounder of the Land- Cameron earned Best Chef: Mid- states, with more on the way. mark Americana group, a hospi- Atlantic semifi nalist honors in 2015 Huether grew up in the Harris- tality company with four locations and 2016. And this in a powerhouse burg area. While attending college, spanning New Jersey and Philadel- category often dominated by chefs he worked for Snap-On Tools and phia, producing total annual sales from Philadelphia, New Jersey, and owned several franchises by age volume of $18 million. He’s the co- Washington, D.C. 21. That business background was owner of WineWorks, a Marlton, Cameron was creating waves important when, at age 25, he sold New Jersey–based store featur- in Rehoboth Beach, a town with his franchises and bought a bar in ing everything from spirits to cigars fewer than 2,000 residents, long Harrisburg. “Everyone told me I and fi ne cheeses. before the accolades. He started was nuts,” he says. “But I always But, at his core, Goldman is a at Espuma before attending The had a passion for food.” brewer, and that’s where he gets Restaurant School at Walnut Hill The fi rst Arooga’s—the name to shine at Urban Village Brewing VILLAGE URBAN

/ College in Philadelphia. He then is the iconic sound of a Model T Co. Goldman is a graduate of the joined restaurateur Kevin Read- horn—opened in June 2008 and University of the Sciences Brewing ing at Nage. Eight years later, Cam- caught on. All 10 company-owned certiﬁ cate program, and he puts HUETHER GARY

eron launched his ﬁ rst solo venture, units are in central Pennsylva- those skills to use at the brewpub. OF a(MUSE.) He’s also the owner of a nia. Arooga’s ﬁ rst franchised unit Goldman oversees all craft-brew- COURTESY two-unit fast casual, Grandpa Mac. opened in 2015 at the Mohegan ing operations and is responsible /

Cameron’s cuisine is known for its Sun Casino. Huether projects 10 for executing the entire beer selec-

dedication to local ingredients, art- franchised restaurants will be open tion and production process from CAMERON

ful design, and inventive recipes. by mid-2018. tank to tap. HARI

60 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM RISING STARS

EAST

Diego garcia, 30 Chef & Owner Gloria | New York CitY

TaTiana rosana, 30 e xeCutive Chef the envoy Hotel | bostoN

tatiaNa rosaNa attributes her suCCess to “half fate and half determina- tion.” eight years ago, she had never set foot in a professional kitchen, but since then she’s worked her way through several. it begaN with the questioN, “Can rosana describes her food as “progressive american” because she has we do this without any meat at all?” “a wide array of local and global influences, and my inspiration is always only this wasn’t the beginning of evolving. the more i grow as a chef, the more my dishes progress forward.” another vegetarian or vegan con- And she’s confident she made the right career choice. “The thing I love cept. Diego Garcia wanted to open most about my career is the way it marries science and art so perfectly,” she a pescatarian restaurant in new york says. “i am able to create something that’s not only beautiful and delicious, City’s Hell’s Kitchen, one that also but moving, as well.” happens to be gluten-free. He may only be 30 years old, but Garcia was the best chef to bring arias has held this belief since the bold idea, named Gloria after he started working in restaurants in his mother, to market. before Glo- Puerto rico. He eventually moved ria, Garcia, who was born in mex- to new york City and worked his ico and raised in napa, California, way around some of its top restau- was a sous chef at le bernardin. rants before he joined Dinnertable that’s where he met Gloria part- in 2016. His menu pays homage ner and general manager Phil John- to his Puerto rican roots by incor- son, who was opening aldo sohm, porating French Caribbean flavors the wine-bar spinoff of le bernar- into modern Japanese prepara- din. Johnson went on to become tions. the Gm of renowned tasting-menu ricky arias, 30 Despite his success, arias concept Contra and he brought e xeCutive Chef remains humble. “this career Garcia along. after nearly two years, | New York CitY requires a tremendous amount of

Dinnertable Dinnertable

Ke a span in which Contra earned a sacrifice,” he says. “Being away

bur michelin star, the two decided to from my loved ones, having very illon open their own concept. riCkY arias waNts to make ingre- little time off, and the long hours D / Gloria, which debuted in march, dients shine. “My cuisine is defined can be very alienating. Keeping my urton

b has received critical acclaim for its by simplicity,” he says. “it’s a way of head down and staying focused

Katie cool vibe and essential flavors. showing respect to the product.” has been the key to my success.”

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm marCH 2018 61 RISING STARS

the responsibility she learned tracy chang, 30 growing up in a large Brazilian fam- chEf & OwnEr ily has translated into a strong work PaGU ethic that helped her develop the CamBridge, massaChusetts bar program at a4cade and evolve the one at area Four Boston. these opportunities have provided her afterward, she studied pas- with the skills to help open new try in Paris and cooked at a three- units and perhaps one day own and star Michelin restaurant in Spain— operate her own bar. before launching a pop-up ramen restaurant and opening PaGU, featuring Japanese- and Spanish- inspired tapas. PaGU has won accolades since traCY Chang’s path to becom- opening last year, but chang ing a chef and restaurateur seems admits she still has much to master. natural. She grew up around her “I have to learn to empower, trust, grandmother’s Japanese restau- and delegate to others” just as her rant, and in college, she worked at mentors did, she says. “I hope to award-winning O Ya in Boston. see my team members successful.”

Justin shoults, 31 ExEcutivE chEf Oak + Rowan | Boston Paul Donnelly, 32 ExEcutivE chEf chinese tuxedo new York CitY

it’s not often you hear of a Scot- tish-born chef specializing in asian cuisine. But from his early days in the industry, Paul donnelly has held the continent’s food culture close to his culinary heart. tainah soares, 31 after staging at Gordon Ram-

Justin shoults was the open- Bar ManagEr say’s amaryllis while attending xEdO tU ing executive chef of Oak + Rowan, area Four Boston and culinary school in Glasgow, don- INESE

where his progressive New England nelly followed his passion for asian ch

| Boston / a4cade ON

cuisine celebrates quality sourcing. cooking to australia, then made t OS

Every dish tells a story, of farmers, his way to thailand for a short stint B OUR

ComBining F artisans, and foragers. an irreverent person- at Nahm and tetsuyas in Bangkok. a aRE

Named one of Zagat’s 30 Under ality with cocktail expertise has led he then spent a decade with aus- /

30 in Boston in 2015, Shoults says tainah Soares to become one of tralia’s Merivale restaurant group— wItZ

he’s always kept his eye on his goals. the top bartenders in Boston. holding an array of positions at the BINO Ra “Early in my career, I saw the Often pulling inspiration from Ivy Lounge, Sailors thai, El Loco, N aw d / importance of creating a strong her Brazilian heritage, Soares says and Ms. G’s—before landing in the SON

foundation in cooking and sur- she creates “quirky yet thoughtful Big apple in 2016 to open chinese Rd cha rounding myself with great chefs cocktails” that she pairs with area tuxedo with friend and co-owner I R EN and restaurants,” he says. Four’s wood-fired pizzas. Eddy Buckingham. K

62 MaRch 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm RISING STARS

there’s more work to do. Rob Ficks, 32 “i want to spend my life introduc- Head Bartender ing the world to china’s vast and the hawthorne | boston rich cultural diversity by creating a modern chinese cuisine with all of these regions in mind,” she says. “I’d like to redefine how we per- ceive chinese food by establishing a new chinese cuisine that brings together inspirations from all cor- ners of china, as well as those from our experiences here stateside.”

Rob Ficks developed his cRaFt FoR Five yeaRs at cRaigie on Main in cambridge, Massachusetts, before coming to steer the innovative cocktail menu at the hawthorne, a nationally recognized cocktail haven. he says he’s taken his craft to a new level at the hawthorne. “i get to exercise my creativity through a median that is very dynamic.” Ficks’ job may be perceived as glamorous, but it’s hard work that he describes as an “intense physical and mental exercise.” “i pride myself on working every moment of every shift, in addition to sharpening my skills when i’m off the clock,” he says. “it’s not always easy, and sean mcPaul, 36 it’s rarely glamorous, but it’s necessary. there are always ways to improve.” e xeCutive CHef high street on hudson new yoRk city ularly mixian, the region’s popular rice noodle dish. but when mixian becomes the next ramen, we’ll staging in the MoRnings before likely have chef simone tong to his shifts as a food runner in the thank. evenings at Philadelphia’s budda- tong, owner of Little tong noo- kan, sean McPaul quickly discov- dle shop in Manhattan’s east Vil- ered his love for the back of the lage, studied all over the world house. after completing culinary and worked at new York’s famed school and a three-year stint at tan- wd~50 and 15 east prior to open- gerine, he made his way to the fine- ing Little tong. tong, who grew up dining food mecca of san Francisco. in chengdu, the capital of china’s it was there he developed his craft sichuan province, spent months and style at such establishments as traveling the Yunnan province to Farrallon, Quince, and Jardinière. udson

h simone Tong, 36 learn more about mixian. Returning to the city of broth- on CHef & Owner her aim in her career is to tell erly Love, McPaul joined talula’s eet

stR the story of authentic chinese food. garden as executive chef, execut-

igh Little tong noodle shop h / new yoRk city americans today are more curious ing two James beard house din- ong and adventurous than ever before, ners in his time at the restaurant. Let she says, and in the last decade he then transitioned to new York Litt

/ not too Many aMeRicans are have started to understand that city, ultimately landing in his cur- agen

h familiar with authentic foods of there’s much more to chinese food rent role at high street on hudson LY i eM china’s Yunnan province, partic- than sweet-and-sour chicken. but last september.

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm MaRch 2018 63 Co-hosted by: Flavor Forays (the original producers of the Championship BBQ & Cook-Off)

AND ® ®

21st Annual Championship

& Cook-Off

Sunday, May 20, 2018 4:00PM – 7:00 PM

Beneﬁ tting World Central Kitchen Galleria Marchetti and Chicago Food Depository 825 W Erie St, Chicago

SPONSORS Trending onMarch 2018the Menu // Bread ock T hinks T

Though bread may seem Story // 66 Breaking basic, specialty offerings Beyond the Basics Bread can elevate menus and Data // 70 drive consumer demand. By the Numbers

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm SPONSOrED cONTENT | March 2018 65 Trending on The menu // Bread

UniqUe bread oFFeringS make it eaSy to elevate ClaSSiC diSheS, SUCh tock

aS breakFaSt S SandwiCheS. think Beyond the Basics

Specialty breads elevate restaurant menus. By Peggy CarouThers

read may not be considered the pasta, and almost any main entrée,” says bread can also send a positive message most glamorous item on a menu, Joseph Furgiuele, executive chef at J&J to guests about the brand. “It is often the Bbut it’s a vital restaurant offering Snack Foods Corp. first impression a guest will experience whether it sits in a basket on the table One of the most common uses for at the table and sets the expectation for or serves as a vehicle for sandwiches or bread in full-service restaurants is the the meal to follow,” Furgiuele says. dipping. Despite its status as a basic sta- free starter basket provided to guests to The type and quality of the bread ple, bread can be used across the entire begin a meal. Though some question the served, however, is important in set- menu and has the power to elevate and profitability of serving free food before ting the right tone for a restaurant and transform a concept. guests order, bread is a sign of hospi- satisfying guests. “Generally the quality “Bread is the essential sandwich car- tality and can help put diners at ease. of the bread served sets the customer’s rier, the perfect accompaniment for soup, Because it is often a comforting item, expectations for their entire experience

66 march 2018 | sPonsored ConTenT FOODNEWSFEED.cOm

Trending on The menu // Bread

in the restaurant,” Furgiuele says. reports that brioche, pretzel, rye, biscuit, type of Indian roti bread, can be stuffed This makes it critical to ensure breads and flatbread have all seen double-digit with spiced potatoes, cheese, and more, meet high quality standards. While growth in the last four years. Brioche and can also be used for pizzas. Though some restaurants find success in staffing features a rich taste and tender texture Datassential reports that its menu pen- their own bakers, many cannot afford making it ideal in applications like sand- etration is just 1 percent, its four-year this expense. In this case, Furgiuele sug- wiches and burgers, as well as French growth is 234 percent. Telera, a soft, gests finding a bakery or baked goods toast. It only has 8 percent menu pen- round Mexican roll that serves as the partner that can ensure restaurants will etration as a sandwich carrier, accord- base for tortas, is seeing growth in sand- have affordable, fresh, homemade-qual- ing to the keynote report, but shows 104 wiches and other dishes. Its menu pen- ity bread, as well as trendy offerings. percent four-year growth. While only etration is less than 1 percent, but its Many brands start with basic bread 38 percent of consumers have tried it, four-year growth is 137 percent. Though offerings. Ubiquity-stage breads in 56 percent say they are interested in bri- these breads and other ethnic offerings have been relatively unknown to Ameri- can diners until recently, they now serve as authentic menu additions to concepts that focus on global fare or those interested in expanding offerings. Another important industry trend influencing bread options is the shift away from gluten for diners with allergies and intolerances, as well as those who choose not to eat it. Alternative grains offer these diners the opportunity to enjoy bread with their meals without sacrificing their health or diets. “Alternative grains and non-wheat breads have the potential to appeal to allergen-

orp. sensitive populations while also creat- S c S ing excitement and upscale appeal on

Food menus,” Furgiuele says. “Varieties of

Snack breads containing ancient grains, buck- J&J Specialty breadS, Such aS pretzel, are gaining popularity in the induStry and wheat, and other gluten-free options can help reStaurantS capture new cuStomerS who want to try them. have great potential for growth.” Though expanding bread offerings Datassential’s Menu Adoption Cycle, like oche. This means that though it’s still may seem costly compared to using Texas toast, wraps, tortillas, bagels, and on relatively few menus, it has strong more traditional breads across the entire whole grain, are safe choices that con- enough appeal and recognition to be a menu, even specialty breads can be used sumers know and expect. Rolls, wraps, fairly safe choice. in many applications. “Offer multiple buns, white bread, and rye all have “We are seeing large growth and pro- daypart and menu items using the same strong double-digit menu penetration liferation of specialty breads and car- bread,” Furgiuele says. “This allows exec- for sandwiches, according to the 2017 riers, like pretzel, sourdough, and bri- utive chefs to get creative while keep- Keynote Report on Sandwiches, yet all oche,” Furgiuele says. “Pretzel buns alone ing their stocks of ingredients to a min- these but buns have negative four-year are up 61 percent since 2013 with over imum. A soft pretzel served by itself as growth. In an increasingly competitive 300 percent growth in casual dining for an appetizer can be soaked in custard market, many brands are turning to new, the same period, according to Datassen- and made into French toast for a brunch, exciting bread options to stand out from tial Menumonitor. This is a result of res- broken into croutons for a salad, or fried other restaurants. taurants changing their menus to keep and covered with cinnamon sugar for a Breads that are in the proliferation excitement for staple items.” dessert.” stage of the Menu Adoption Cycle may Breads that tie into other industry Though bread may seem like a restau- be better choices for restaurants looking trends are also primed for exploration. rant basic, it has the power to transform for new options. These breads are famil- With the growth in global cuisine over menus. By selecting the right varieties, iar enough that many diners feel safe the past few years, it make sense that restaurants can not only differentiate ordering them, but they still offer vari- breads that come from other regions their concepts, they can also appeal to ety in taste and application. Datassential are also growing in popularity. Naan, a more customers and drive demand.

68 march 2018 | SPonSored ConTenT FOODNEWSFEED.cOm WANT MORE REGULARS? DON’T BE SO REGULAR.

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Bread Trends

BREAD TRENDS TO WATCH & UNDERSTAND // COURTESY OF DATASSENTIAL

MOST POPULARLY MENUED BREADS BRIOCHE One of the top growing breads on menus, Most Popular 2017 Penetration 4 Year Growth brioche has a rich taste and tender texture thanks to its high egg and butter content. Brioche is used today on Brioche 13% +72% a wide variety of gourmet sandwiches and burgers and Pretzel 10% +57% is also used for French toast. Rye 28% +23% CONSUMERS Biscuit 13% +22% Know It Have Tried It Flatbread 12% +17% 56% 38%

MENU EXAMPLE: NAAN Naan is one of many types of Indian roti (bread) Smoked Bass and Egg on Brioche: Freshwater bass, and has many variations. This traditional ﬂ at bread— green onion, celery, potato, house made brioche toast, dating back to 1300 AD—is puffy, smoky, and slightly soft campo lindo egg, shatto plattsburg cheese gels. blistered. It’s made with white ﬂ our, leavened with yeast, Justus Drug Store, A Restaurant // SMITHVILLE, MO and cooked on the side of a tandoor oven. Variations include naan stuffed with spiced potatoes, cheese, and more. Today, it’s also used for unique pizzas and sand- BISCUIT This southern, home-style breakfast favorite wiches. has been growing on PM menus as a popular side and sometimes incorporated into dishes themselves. CONSUMERS Know It Have Tried It 40% 28%

MENU EXAMPLE: Flat Bread Pizza: Naan crust, topped with Italian sausage, red onion, black olives, tomatoes, spinach, and olive oil, ﬁ nished off with fresh mozzarella. Little Owl Restaurant & Tavern // GENEVA, IL

TELERA A rounded and softer variation of the bolillo, this Mexican roll is the base for tortas and has versatile uses for sandwiches and other creations.

CONSUMERS THINKSTOCK Know It Have Tried It CONSUMERS 15% 7% Know It Have Tried It MENU EXAMPLE: 97% 93% Orange Anchiote Pulled Pork Sandwich: Pork cooked in an orange mop sauce; rubbed in an anchiote season- MENU EXAMPLE: ing paste and served on a telera roll layered with avo- Chicken Pot Pie: Baby carrots, ﬁ ngerling potatoes, cado, jicama coleslaw, queso fresco, cilantro, and onion. pearl onion, dino kale, and a buttermilk biscuit top. Crest Café // SAN DIEGO, CA The Tipsy Pig // SAN FRANCISCO, CA

70 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM MOCUP/OKORKMAZ

Check out FSR’s website, Food Newsfeed! FEATURING: With a design optimized for all viewing Industry coverage devices, users will ﬁ nd award-winning expanded to include content from the pages of FSR magazine, non-commercial headline news for the foodservice industry, foodservice and exclusive web content, and downloadable foodservice at retail special reports. Themed “Topic Guides” You won’t ﬁ nd another foodservice site like focused on crucial Food Newsfeed. Come Visit Today! subjects

www.FoodNewsfeed.com TRENDING ON THE MENU // Bread

TOP FIVE FASTEST-GROWING SANDWICH CARRIERS TOP FIVE MOST-MENUED SANDWICH CARRIERS

Most Popular 2016 Penetration 4 Year Growth Most Popular 2016 Penetration 4 Year Growth Naan 1% +234% Roll 33% -5% Telera <1% +137% Wrap 31% -2% Brioche 8% +104% Bun 25% +3% Pretzel 3% +104% White 23% -3% Biscuit 1% +99% Rye 20% -5%

FROM DATASSENTIAL’S 2017 KEYNOTE REPORT: SANDWICHES FROM DATASSENTIAL’S 2017 KEYNOTE REPORT: SANDWICHES

MENU ADOPTION CYCLE: BREADS

1. INCEPTION Trends start here. Found in mostly ﬁ ne- dining and ethnic independents, Inception-stage trends exemplify originality in ﬂ avor, preparation, and presentation.

1. Telera/Bolillo 4. Ancient Grain 2. Pullman 5. Johnnycake 3. Lavash

CHALLAH

2. ADOPTION Found at fast-casual and casual independents, Adoption-stage trends grow their base via lower price points and simpler prep methods. Still differenti- ated, these trends often feature premium and/or generally authentic ingredients.

1. Potato Bread 4. Wheatberry 2. Bao 5. Naan 3. Challah MARBLE RYE

3. PROLIFERATION Proliferation-stage trends show 4. UBIQUITY Ubiquity-stage trends are found every- up at casual and quick service restaurants. They are where—these trends have reached maturity, and adjusted for mainstream appeal. Often combined can be found across all sectors of the food indus- with popular applications (burgers, pastas, etc.), these try. Though often diluted by this point, their inception- trends have become familiar to many. stage roots are still recognizable.

1. Brioche 4. Marble Rye 1. Texas toast 4. Bagel 2. Pretzel 5. Honey Wheat 2. Wrap 5. Whole Grain

3. Focaccia 3. Tortilla THINKSTOCK

72 MARCH 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.COM Perspectives By Carly Boers

The Plant-Based Pub

Under new ownership, Beelman’s is still slinging tasty bar fare—but with a vegan twist.

THE TEAM BEHIND BEELMAN’S is nothing if not bold. As if overhaul- ing a solid burgers-and-wings menu at the downtown Los Angeles spot in favor of all-in vegan pub food was not gutsy enough, Chef Caroline Concha has also peppered the restaurant’s new dishes with assertive Asian flavors. The concept may sound unconven- tional, even eccentric, but it’s a natural move for the chef—and one that comes as a response to consumer demand. Although not a vegan, Concha is inti- The new menu aT Beelman’s feaTures vegan BiTes and meals like The Buddha mately familiar with plant-based cook- Bowl wiTh crispy marinaTed Tofu, spicy chickpeas, pickled veggies, and papaya. ing, having earned her stripes at Tony’s Darts Away, the vegan-friendly craft Reilly, a partner in Artisanal Brewers Road Brewing cofounder and longtime beer bar operated by the same hospital- Collective, says that too was lacking in vegan Tony Yanow—casual, plant-based ity management group that owns Beel- the dining scene when the group pur- food is in the company DNA. When it man’s, Artisanal Brewers Collective. chased the bar, then called Beelman’s purchased Beelman’s, the beer organi- Over five years, she worked her way Pub, in early 2017. zation already operated a handful of up from busser to executive chef at “Los Angeles is the easiest place, maybe vegan-friendly bars around L.A., includ- Tony’s. And when she did leave for Beel- in the world, to be a vegan. There are a ing Tony’s Darts Away, Mohawk Bend, man’s, Concha brought her vegan know- million vegans and a million choices for and the Stalking Horse. Beelman’s, how- how with her, building a menu that cap- them,” she says. “Though the intent was ever, marked the company’s first exclu- italized on what the vegan customers at not necessarily to go full vegan, we saw sively vegan concept. Tony’s had loved. a niche missing in downtown L.A.,” she While fries remain on offer, chicken By melding flavors from Asia-Pacific says, adding that vegan dining in that wings have made way for small plates with the vegan cooking skills she honed particular area skewed toward high-end. such as nacho-esque Tachos (soyrizo, at Tony’s, the Filipino-born Concha Six months after acquiring the pub, cashew cheese, salsa, gochujang crema, believes she’s filled a void. “There are the new owners took the plunge, fully and chili pinto beans) and Concha’s riff tons of places to get pub food and plenty revamping the menu in an effort to cre- on mozzarella sticks, called Wonton of nice Asian restaurants, but I wasn’t ate a fun bar where vegans could go to Mee Bites (smoked tofu, wonton wrap- aware of anywhere serving easy-eating eat things other than fries, Reilly says. pers, balsamic reduction, and sriracha Asian food,” she says. For Artisanal Brewers Collective— aioli). Burgers are now of the plant-based As for the vegan component, Paige which is backed in part by former Golden Impossible Meat variety, and creations Beelman's

FooDNeWsFeeD.Com march 2018 73 Perspectives

such as a fried rice–like Loco Moco Bowl, and give them a taste of the food. Reilly While it’s a marked change, Reilly featuring Impossible Meat, jasmine rice, says Beelman’s won back 99 percent of is quick to point out that Beelman’s ponzu, sweet chili sriracha, and sambal the customers who were hesitant about remains loyal to its roots. “This is abso- sauce, and the Viet Nom Nom Wrap (cit- the change. lutely still a bar,” she says. “We watch rus-glazed Impossible Meat cutlets, rice, Concha recalls one guest ordering the football and drink beer and eat not nec- and green papaya) populate the menu. Impossible Burger and declaring it the essarily healthy.” The pub features views “[Concha] doesn’t necessarily play it best burger he’d ever tasted—never real- of flat-screen televisions from both inte- safe with vegan cooking,” Reilly says. “She izing it was meatless. “If the name of an rior booths and a 40-seat outdoor patio. doesn’t use crazy ingredients, either. It’s item or the menu wording makes it pop, And to dispel a misconception, she what she does with the ingredients that’s people are more likely to try it,” Concha adds, “‘Vegan’ doesn’t mean ‘crunchy’ or just awesome.” Beelman’s 2.0 is a boon says. “I have tricked a lot of people into ‘hippy,’ nor does it always mean ‘healthy.’” for vegans, particularly those who live or eating vegan food without telling them After all, veganism comes in many levels work in its burgeoning neighborhood. In first.” Another technique Concha says and styles—particularly in Los Angeles, recent months, the pub has seen an uptick she often wins over skeptics: making which has become a mecca for the plant- in weekday business for lunch and happy the food spicy. based diet. hour—when the Poor Man’s Korean BBQ Beverage-wise, Beelman’s has gone In the case of Beelman’s, vegan sim- tater tots with barbecue and sweet chili the tiki route, creating tropical offer- ply means good food made without ani- sauces are the crowd favorite. It has also ings to complement Concha’s dishes. Sig- mal products. The team likes to spread tacked on weekend brunch service. nature cocktails include the Castaway the idea of veganism without pushing As excited as vegans and new custom- (Plantation silver and pineapple rums, it on people. And although Reilly, Con- ers may be, Reilly concedes that vegan Créme de Banana and Crème de Pêche, cha, and company have no qualms about food can be deemed scary by the uniniti- Orgeat, vanilla, and lime and pineap- deviating from the norm, they’re mind- ated—particularly those who were used ple juices) and a Piña Colada made with ful to not alienate anyone. “We’re not to the original Beelman’s fare. For the fresh coconut milk. Wines and a roster striving to be known as just a vegan’s new team, the solution was simple: Sit a of craft beers, both draft and bottled, pub. We really hope to be everyone’s pub,” guest down, put a beer in front of them, round out the drink list. Reilly says. Beelman's Chef Caroline ConCha honed her skills at sister ConCept tony’s darts away before switChing to beelman’s, where she puts a vegan twist on ClassiC pub foods like the ‘that’s a tasty burger,’ made with impossible meats and plantains.

74 march 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm Finance By Conor Morris

Trade Secrets

From branding to recipes, here’s what restaurants need to know about intellectual property rights.

TRADEMARKS, PATENTS, AND other legal protections are often associ- ated with inventions, artistic works, and images—but not so much with restaurants. Nevertheless, intellectual property rights encompass everything from a restaurant’s name and logo to proprietary recipes and kitchen processes. Without proper protections in place, operators run the risk of competitors capitalizing on their “secret sauce.” Alicia Bell, a partner at Portland, Ore- gon–based law firm Miller Nash Gra- Chef and restaurateur sCott GottliCh reCommends drawinG up a ContraCt ham & Dunn, understands those risks that stipulates what intelleCtual property riGhts belonG to the restaurant. all too well. She has worked on intellectual property conflict cases with restau- the exact style, and look of our restau- radar for mom and pop restaurants and rant clients for almost eight years. rant. We never would have found it, but smaller chains. “It seems like there’s far more of an because of the internet, you just came Bell says one of the most common opportunity for a conflict now when across it easily, even though it’s in another issues she sees involves former employ- a restaurant sort of automatically has part of the country,” McNally says. ees leaving with key recipes or trade national reach by virtue of the fact that McNally says he doesn’t mind now, secrets. In these cases, restaurants they have a website,” Bell says. but if he and his partner were still in might not have much recourse if they Greg McNally, CEO and principal business, it would be an entirely differ- don’t already have the proper protec- consultant of California-based restau- ent matter. tions in place. rant business advisory agency Food- Despite the hazard of easy online “These are things that the restaurant Power, says times have changed since access to information, the basic tenets of thought [they] should have owned, but he opened his first restaurant in 1989, protecting intellectual property haven’t employees will have access to that infor- in large part because of the internet. He changed much, McNally says. He rec- mation and take it down the road and recently received a call from the former ommends—especially if a management start their own competing restaurant,” business partner on that now-closed company owns the restaurant in ques- Bell says. venture and learned something surpris- tion—that layers of protection be put in The other most common issue, Bell ing—and a bit unsettling. place. For firms like FoodPower, hold- says, is when a restaurant copies the look “[The concept] was pretty unique, but ing the rights for trademarks, logos, and of a competitor’s restaurant—or the logo recently we found a restaurant with the intellectual property is almost a given, or name—in a way that suggests the two exact same name … the exact same font, but it might not be something on the are related, potentially chipping away at ©Marple

FooDnEWsFEED.CoM March 2018 75 Finance

sales from the established concept. or not, McNally says. However if a res- igating the tricky realm of intellectual To further complicate matters, it’s taurant features a common name, such property rights. Like Bell and McNally, fairly difficult in the U.S. to get a patent as “Michael’s Restaurant,” it can’t neces- he says it’s important to have all partners on a dish or recipe unless the item in sarily be trademarked. in a new venture sign a contract specifi- question is incredibly unique, Bell says. Boston-based dumpling restaurant cally laying out what belongs to the busi- While trademarking the name of a dish Dumpling Daughter filed a lawsuit in ness and what does not. He also suggests is a step in the right direction, the most 2015 alleging trademark infringement that from the very early stages of devel- effective action is to create a contract and misappropriation of trade secrets by oping a concept, partners sign some- assigning intellectual property rights a competitor restaurant called Dumpling thing akin to a nondisclosure agreement of special dishes or processes to the res- Girl, which was founded by several for- so no one person can leave with the idea. taurant. Chefs and staff with access to mer employees in a city called Millbury, While Gottlich has not been those recipes and processes would then on the outskirts of Boston. embroiled in any conflicts over intellec- sign the contract or other binding agree- The lawsuit alleges that opening tual property, he did witness the now- ment to protect confidential details, Dumpling Girl was a “blatant act of com- defunct Place at Perry’s in Dallas go essentially making such information a mercial piracy,” with dishes and a menu out of business in 2015. For more than trade secret, Bell says. that were “virtually identical” to Dump- a decade, the restaurant was confused Bell and McNally also advise new res- ling Daughter, with “proprietary, trade with a different business, Houston-based taurant partners to sign a written agree- secret recipes misappropriated” from the Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille, which actu- ment, specifying that the business owns restaurant. According to a 2016 article in ally moved to Dallas years after Place at any intellectual property created therein. the Millbury-Sutton Chronicle, the case was Perry’s had opened. Industry experts strongly encourage settled some months later, after Dump- According to the entertainment divi- would-be restaurateurs to conduct thor- ling Girl changed its name to Star Dump- sion of the Dallas Morning News, Place ough market research ahead of time. It’s lings. at Perry’s was originally just Perry’s but not unheard-of that a restaurant should Scott Gottlich, chef and owner of changed its name in part because of a open only to discover months later that 18th & Vine BBQ, has opened multi- threatened lawsuit from the steakhouse. it bears the same name as one halfway ple restaurants in Dallas over the years. Place at Perry’s even tried relocating to across the country. Names are one of the Having also cofounded management a different area in Dallas, but according most commonly copied factors among company Fruition Hospitality with his to the newspaper, it “never quite recov- restaurants, whether it be intentional wife, Gina, Gottlich has experience nav- ered” from the name dispute. thinkstock it may be difficult to trademark a dish, but restaurants can take steps to keep recipes from leaving with former staff.

76 march 2018 FOODNEWSFEED.cOm Service By JuDy Kneiszel

Review Me Do

Do online reviews still play into consumers’ dining decisions?

SINCE YELP’S INCEPTION IN 2004, consumers have posted more than 24 million restaurant reviews on the platform. That figure doesn’t even include the mountain of reviews that appear on other sites: Google, TripAdvisor, Face- book, and OpenTable. What was once a fringe market has quickly morphed into a pervasive industry influencer. But the way consumers use the technology has changed, making restaurants question if the sites are still relevant. When Michael Franks opened Chez Melange in Redondo Beach, Califor- For 14-unit ocean prime, keeping tabs on online reviews entails visiting more nia, in 1982, restaurant recommenda- 200 sites dai ly. the Feedback gleaned From such reviews can inForm strategy. tions were still word-of-mouth. Online reviews didn’t start affecting his busi- vidual sites each day checking separate are still relevant, says Max Schleicher, ness until a little more than a decade ago. pages for all 14 locations of the multi- ReviewTracker’s head of content. What “I hadn’t been aware of it until we had state chain. The team was always aware has changed is which sites are important. about 10 reviews on Yelp,” Franks says. of online reviews, says Heather Buck, “In 2015 Google started to dominate “Then I read some of the reviews and director of training and guest services. reviews,” Schleicher says. “Google is thought, ‘Well, this is interesting; this But it wasn’t until six to eight years ago number one now, then Yelp, TripAdvi- could be something.’” that the feedback started figuring into sor, and Facebook. Restaurants want to Years later Franks says the basic the decision making. have strong presence on each of these.” online review model has remained true “We used to see them and not do any- Google started attaching review stars to its original mission of sharing con- thing about them, then we started look- to its localized searches at the end of sumer opinions on a wide scale. He goes ing for trends, and finally a few years ago 2010, according to ReviewTrackers’ 2018 even further to purport that online we started monitoring and responding Online Reviews Survey. At the time, the reviews make the restaurant industry to every one,” Buck says. search engine collected reviews from better. “It’s part of the way we do busi- Nearly half of consumers say online other sites. But after acquiring restau- ness now and you have to embrace it,” he reviews are important when choosing rant review guide Zagat, Google shifted says. “It is a powerful tool for the cus- a restaurant, according to the Chicago- its focus to host its own reviews—a tomer. It will make you better and it will based customer feedback software com- move that changed the entire online

prime frustrate you.” pany ReviewTrackers. One-third won’t review ecosystem. ean C

o Alex Bates, guest services manager for patronize a restaurant with less than a According to ReviewTrackers’ data,

of Ocean Prime, visits more than 200 indi- four-star rating. Clearly, online reviews 63.6 percent of consumers say they are Courtesy

FOODneWsFeeD.cOm marCh 2018 77 Service

likely to check reviews on Google before visiting a business; Yelp ranks second at 45.2 percent. What differentiates Google from the rest of the competition is its sheer breadth; the majority of website traﬃc is routed through Google, meaning the search engine can display its own star ratings to users ahead of other sites. Nevertheless, the set of expectations customers attach to review sites is fairly consistent across platforms. Per ReviewTrackers, 53 percent of customers expect businesses to respond to negative reviews within a week, but an S ng even greater amount (63 percent) pur- SSI CRo port the businesses never responded to In combIng through onlIne revIews of hIs restaurant, crossIngs, PatrIck their review. And a somewhat unsettling kIrchen searches for Patterns that mIght PoInt to an area for ImProvement.

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78 mARCh 2018 FOODNEWSFEED .COM 94 percent report that online reviews have convinced them to avoid a business. Are you Restaurant operators have different ways of dealing with less-than-flattering feedback. Ocean Prime reviews are stud- missing ied for trends and if a pattern of similar complaints emerges, the team considers half of what operational changes. At Crossings in South Pasadena, Cal- FSR ifornia, owner Patrick Kirchen says he has will respond to a negative review, but only in private. to offer? “I never respond publically on Yelp,” Kirchen says. “I only respond to negative reviews, and out of 380 total reviews, I’ve probably responded to 20. I don’t Sign up for our offer free dinners or anything. I just fS inSider e-letter! apologize and say I’d love for them to give us another chance. I invite them to email and discuss their issue, but I’ve never gotten an email.” foodnewsfeed.com/ Kirchen says if guests genuinely wish insider to offer feedback, they will tell others or post a review with their name. “I respond privately because if I respond publicly to one review and not another, some people could think their opinion doesn’t matter,” he says. With anonymous reviews, Kirchen plays detective to figure out who left the review, what they ate, and who their server was so if the complaint is legiti- mate, he can take steps to avoid repeats. But like Ocean Prime, Kirchen and his team at Crossings seek trends. “We did one dish when we opened that four or five reviews of the first 30 didn’t like, so we took it off the menu because it just wasn’t properly executed,” Kirchen says. “That’s how I use online reviews.” Although Yelp has been mired in lawsuits alleging that it hides positive reviews for companies unless businesses choose to advertise, neither Kirchen nor Franks have had such an experience. “I’ve been encouraged to buy ads, and we have done so because it gives us a big- ger presence,” Franks says. “It was my wish; no pressure. It doesn’t help you get a good review. Like any reputable advertising company, they won’t mix the two.” While asking happy customers for reviews is tempting, Kirchen refrains, saying reviews should be sincere.

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm March 2018 79 Where Chefs Eat

John Lichtenberger { AUSTIN }

Where the Le Bernardin alum eats when he’s not in the kitchen at Austin’s European-style comfort food staple, Péché.

PIEoUS PIzzA They hand-mix the dough, so i’m hooked. i am partial to the Brus- sels & Jam Pizza, which has bacon marmalade and Brussels sprouts.

HAo-HAo This place has both Vietnamese and Chinese food, and it’s all fan- tastic. i love the pho. Hao-Hao also makes the best Vietnamese coffee. it’s so good that my wife has frequent cravings for it.

TUrf & SUrf Po Boy This spot is just around the corner from Péché. When i need a little change of scenery, i run down the back alley and order a blackened redfish or catfish taco.

NoBlE SANdWICH Co. i’m a big fan of the Smoked Duck Pastrami sandwich—everything in it, including the bread, is made in-house.

ustin is no stranger to the food tenberger is the force behind the sinful ENoTECA VESPAIo scene, but locals know there’s menu—think duck fat–mashed potatoes, i have had amazing grilled sar- much more to it than barbecue sweetbreads, and many things covered dines here, and the sandwiches and food trucks. Take Péché in Gruyere. Lichtenberger is a New York and pasta are awesome. We were A for example, a European-style expat and Le Bernardin alum. He made in for lunch one day, and my wife staple in the city’s Warehouse the move to Texas to work the opening was excited to see Lyle Lovett District known as much for its hearty of Trattoria Lisina, curing meats and come strolling in. comfort food as it is for its cocktails. making fresh pasta and gelato. He joined Ay

Péché translates from French to the Péché to bring his years of French cuisine R

word sin. Executive Chef John Lich- experience into focus. Annie

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