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WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation. 1 CONTENTS

Editorial .. 3 Walking Across the Roof of Australia. Geoffrey Mosley .. 4 Travels with Grandma- . .. G. Wills-Johnson .. 13 Classical Analogies .. .. Warren Baker 19 Anodopetalum Biglandu losum In Situ .. Jon Cairns 25 of Rock and Brumby Track F .W. Halls 30 Pedder Lives .. 36 Oh What a Lovely Way to Spend Easter .. .. Stuart Hodgson .. 38 A Special Visit to Lamington .. .. Michael Griffin .. 43 The Eucalyptus Distillers G. Errey .. 49 Books for Bushwalkers .. 51 Mountain Muster 52 The Heysen Trail 54 Mapping .. 62

WALKS SECTION Mitta Mitta Territory (five days) 55 Feathertop the Hard Way (four days) 58 Easter on the Rocky Range (four days) 60 The Upper Reaches of the Darga (two days) 63 Poley Range Country (two days) .. 65 A Weekend in Kooyoora Country (two days) 67 Federation Track, Boobyalla (one day) .. 69 Walking Near Melbourne (one day) 70

MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS always welcome visitors on their walks which include easy one-day excursions and week-end trips. Extended walking tours of three days or more are also included on the programme. If you are interested, then call in any Wednesday night, from 8 to 10.30 p.m., to the clubroom, Hosier Lane, Melbourne (at the rear of the Forum Theatre). Details may be obtained by writing to the Hon. Secretary, Box 17510, G.P.O., Melbourne 3001, or by phoning 97 3724.

The editorial committee of WALK 1973 wishes to acknowledge its appreciation to all those who have helped in this production and are not acknowledged in the text. This includes those members of the club who have helped with the manuscripts, Miss Rosemary Rider for her sketches on the title page and cover, Mrs Darrell Sullivan for drawing the maps, Mr John Brownlie and Dr G. Wills-Johnson for photographic help and the Editor of the Australian for permission to print the article appearing on page 4. 2 EDITORIAL

There can be no doubt that when Australia's environmental problems are sub­ jected to critical analysis the source of these problems can be traced to the philosophy inherent in the affluent society. This view, namely that anything that may be ex­ ploited for profit and fortune is fair game for any kind of industry, has unfortunately been fostered by leadership at all levels for many years. Federal, State and Local Governments - either from gross ignorance of the nature of the problem or general lack of interest in conservation matters - have encouraged the rape of most of our beautiful countryside. Governments have shirked their duty to the community by irresponsibly permitting industry to intrude into reserved areas. The political term for this is progress. Individual properties, forests, national parks, natural watercourses, fauna and flora have all been affected in its name. One of the disturbing features of this situation is the speed and secrecy with which takeover operations are performed, and the fact that there are few, if any, legal safeguards for the restoration of damage.

"Walk" does not believe that all change is necessarily bad, but all too often the word progress is used by interested bodies to justify legalised extortion from indivi­ duals or minority groups. In the name of progress we have seen our environment change before our eyes in response to legislation introduced through the lobbying of pressure groups. The list is formidable; ; part of the Cradle Mt National Park; the dreadful scar on Arthur's Seat; the secret and rapid building of a restaurant on Mt Dandenong; the taking of part of Port Phillip Bay to build a restaurant; and the near misses of the Botanical Gardens and the Little Desert. In no case has the loss been replaced by something of greater aesthetic value. Money, and only money has been the prime consideration.

The Mt Feathertop area is currently under attack from skiing organisations. The Australian Ski Year Book of 1972 wants new ski fields developed on Feathertop. There would, of course be immense financial interests involved in such things as ski lodges, their associated bars, ski tows and other ancillary services. Garbage and non­ disposable waste is a common problem at ski resorts. This is akin to the violation of a beautiful and gentle queen. The awe and majesty would be gone forever. After all how aesthetic is a ski tow7

Bushwalking is an activity which appeals to a very large section of the community, even those without the skills and co-ordination needed for more strenuous sports. The fact that it is a perennial sport is a compelling reason for bushwalkers resisting the efforts of more powerful and richer groups to take over and exploit walking domains for seasonal use.

Australia is in a fortunate pos1t1on that a similar pattern has emerged in other countries. To avoid mistakes made elsewhere our legislators must listen to much of the expert and informed advice that is now being offered in connection with environ­ mental matters. They must ensure legislation is introduced to protect individuals against the ravages of industry. They must ensure that there are adequate safeguards for restoration of areas at present being exploited. They must ensure that the general population is made aware that there are vast areas of Australia whose charm and beauty depend on them being maintained in their present pristine state. Unless the present governmental attitude radically changes there will be few areas fit for habitation, bushwalking or anything else.

3 WALKING ACROSS THE ROOF OF AUSTRALIAt

by Geoffrey Mosley •

A long walk is very different from any other. Because you are out longer and because there is the challenge of a distant destination it takes on many of the charac­ teristics of an expedition. Instead of having to go home before becoming thoroughly used to a new style of living, as you must with a weekend trip, the bush begins to feel like home. Wit.h so many days and so many uncertainties it is inevitable that there will be adventures.

There is still a lot of scope for long trips through more or less natural country in Australia and for several years I have had the ambition of walking the alps from end to end, one of the best long trips of all.

It was not easy to find companions but this year I found two very good ones. Dr Niels Becker and I planned to do the whole trip and Dr Ken Myer said he would like to do the second stage.

Since we wanted to avoid walking with the early morning sun in our eyes it was logical to start at . For a destination we picked out the Mt Skene road, about 300 miles away in central . South of here the mountains become considerably lower and there are roads nearly everywhere. Still, we decided we would go on to walk over the Baw Baw Plateau and finish at Walhalla if we still had time to spare at the end.

It is not much fun carrying food for a long period so we decided to post food to three different points along the way and carry a maximum of six days' supply.

We set off early on the morning of November 14 walking past the last houses on the edge of Canberra heading for our first obstacle, the Murrumbidgee and after that the mountains.

Days One to Seven: Canberra to Tom Groggin The Murrumbidgee waters were strong but clear and we swam across a 6Q-yard stretch without much difficulty, our packs providing buoyancy. At flood time the several extra miles walk to the nearest bridge would be worth considering. Then on through paddocks which made a nice contrast with the stormy looking mountains which we could see ahead of us.

Avoiding roads as much as possible, we approached the mountains by way of the serene Booroomba Valley and Punchbowl Creek where a large number of grey kanga­ roos were having their evening feed. Reaching the top of the first range of the Brinda­ bella Mountains - a hard steep climb for our first day but easy compared with later climbs - there was the disappointment of large areas of native forest cleared for pine planting, and the excitement of seeing two mobs of brumbies at Smoker's Gap.

We traversed the Cotter Valley catchment area by way of the Carin Dam wall and then climbed the 2500 ft spur to Mt Gingera on the main range of the Brindabellas. This brought us to the snow gum sub-alpine country which we were to become very familiar with in the following three weeks. We crossed the range at a small gap and descended to spend our second night in the ruins of Leura Hut.

+This article was published in The Australian on 8/2/72. It is reprinted with the kind permission of the editor of that newspaper. • Australian Conservation Foundation. 4 There are more than a hundred huts in the , mainly abandoned stockmen's huts, and we carried no tent for this section of the walk.

Leura's shingle roof was resting on the ground but there was sufficient room for us to squeeze in and find shelter at the two ends. During the night we were woken by an ominous nibbling sound which stopped after I threw a piece of wood at our packs containing the precious food.

But as we found out next morning, the animal, probably a rat, had discovered something much better than dehydrated meat. Half of one of Niels' bootlaces had disappeared and there were sharp teeth marks in one of the boots to show what had been next on the menu. So we discovered a disadvantage of soaking one's boots in waterproof Dobbin which had previously never crossed our minds.

The alpine huts had some very interesting native inhabitants. One of them- the mountain pygmy possum - was known only from fossil remains until it was found first, in 1966, in a hut at Mt Hotham and later in several huts in the Snowy Mountains.

The second day was a bad one for Niels: he twisted his knee and for the rest of the trip walked with a painful limp. Downhill walking was particularly difficult. He also lost his parka, a vital item of equipment, which had fallen from the top of his pack.

From Leura we crossed the headwaters of the and entered the Kosciusko National Park. The next 100 miles of our journey were entirely within the park. For 10 miles we travelled down the tussock-covered Curango plains passing several abandoned homesteads to reach the Tantangara Dam.

We planned to walk across the top of the dam wall, but one glimpse of the con­ crete arch construction showed this was impossible and the Murrumbidgee had to be waded for a second time. We had a similar experience the following day when we found that where we had planned to ford the the water was a mile wide.

From the Eucumbene River we climbed onto the plateau near Table Top and had our first view of the tantalising low covered peaks ahead. Dominating the whole scene, and with the most snow on it, was Mt Jagungal, which to the Aboriginals was "Mother of the Waters". Even though I knew this country well I was tremendously thrilled at seeing it again and at the thought of the days in the snow which lay ahead. Niels, seeing the area for the first time, was filled with an overwhelming sensation of wonder.

The following two and a half days between Happy Jack's Plain and Dead Horse Gap were the most exciting of the whole trip. Snow fell, adding several inches to the heavy winter snow which still covered most of the main range and throughout a very strong wind blew from the north-west.

Niels fashioned a makeshift parka by cutting holes in a larger plastic bag and this served well enough once the rain changed to snow.

The greatest physical effort was required on day six when we climbed the snow­ covered Mt Tate and Mt Twynam. Blue Lake under the shoulders of Twynam was still icebound.

Here we felt the full force of the storm. The wind was so strong that we could lean on it and our faces were lashed by the stinging sago snow. Our feelings alternated between exhilaration at experiencing nature at its wildest and longing for the warmth and safety of the huts. 5 It was actually a great relief to reach first, Mawson's Hut on day five and the Al­ bina Lodge at the end of day six.

We crossed the on a snow bridge, walked under the huge cornice on the eastern side of Mt Kosciusko, and passed between the fantastic half mist-hidden Ramshead peaks. Below the Ramsheads the beauty of the forest scene was intense. There was still deep snow beneath the trees, the sun was shining, our packs were light and our spirits high. Tom Groggin, 5700 ft below Kosciusko, was a lot warmer and for the first time in several nights we slept without all our spare clothes on.

Days Eight to Fifteen: Tom Groggin to Mt Hotham As pre-arranged, Ken Myer now joined the party. As we climbed 4000 ft up the slopes of Mt Pinnibar the weather deteriorated to rain, and then higher up. to driving snow. At mid-day, as we crouched under some bushes having our lunch, Niels, who was soaked through to the skin and worried about his leg, decided it was foolish for him to continue and set off back to Tom Groggin and home to Melbourne.

Niels' departure depressed my spirits greatly. We had planned the trip together without any serious thought that this might happen and I had become very apprecia­ tive of his cheerful company. This mood, which lasted for several days, made me a morose partner for Ken who was full of enthusiasm for what was, for him, the start of the trip.

Ken and I continued but pitched our tent early rather than go another seven miles over the stormbound Mt Gibbo. Here we had our first trouble finding water. The best walking routes in the follow the tops of the ridges. Except on the high plains the nearest water is usually in scrubby creeks many hundreds of feet below. Hanging valleys with water and high level springs are exceptional and occurred only about every eight to 10 miles along our route. This meant that we had to carry water for the day's walk and had to reach one of the few points close to water for camping.

We were very reluctant to add extra weight to our packs and each day we found that we had taken too little water for our needs.

On some days, by early evening our thirst was so bad that we stopped to catch slow drips from patches of moss, and when this was not possible, took to desperately sucking moist rocks. At the Mt Gibbo camp we scrub-bashed through to a small creek below the ridge and supplemented the water we collected there with melting snow.

There was a hard frost that night and it was impossible to put our boots on until we had thawed them out over the fire.

The next morning the sun came out and the walking along the snow covered tracks through alpine ash forests with magnificent back views of Tom Groggin and the west face of the Main Range was idyllic. On Mt Gibbo we also saw the first of innumerable emus. The weather was fine now and remained so for the rest of the trip with nothing more than a few spots of rain falling on our carefully waterproofed tent.

Although much of the walking in this section was on fire-roads, this would nor­ mally be pleasant because the roads are narrow and well grassed over, but a big storm in the north-east following heavy snow and frost had brought down a colossal number of trees and branches and in the more heavily timbered parts we had to go around logs and pick our way through the debris, making our progress very slow.

The men who made these jeep tracks followed the ridge tops regardless of slope. In places it was like walking up the side of a house; my shouted request to the man 6 Rreo~ over 4500 ket

N. 5. W.

oWalhalla

0 so 100 MILE!>

above to "throw down a rope ladder" were too close to the truth to be thought funny.

A steep climb over Wild Boar Mountain came near the end of day nine and Ken developed a knee injury similar to that of Niels' which meant that he had to take great care downhill. It took us three hours to reach the picturesque flats of the Gibbo River from the top of the Kings spur, a distance of about two miles.

Because of Ken's knee we decided to take the southern route over The Knocker to avoid the steep descent from Mt Bogong to the Big River. This took us across Morris's Creek which was hard to negotiate because of blackberries, over Frazer's Tableland, a pioneering farming area, and up to our waists crossing the Mitta-Mitta River.

The wildflower-carpeted open woodland between the Mitta-Mitta and Four Mile Creek was the epitome of much that is best known in Australian wildlife. Cockatoos and parrots of many varieties, grey kangaroos, and emus were all visible at the same time. Unfortunately.

On top of The Knocker Ken decided that his leg was beginning to slow us down so much that he would pull out at Glen Valley.

We camped for the night near Glen Valley's village hall, drinking the town water which comes from ditches dug for gold sluicing. The next day Ken went back to 7 Melbourne and I set off up Middle Creek for the .

I had suffered some stomach discomfort back at Glen Valley but as the day wore on things became much worse; the strength went from my legs and by the time I reached the Cope Saddle I was too weak even to put up the tent.

In between violent bouts of vomiting and diarrhoea, which were so bad at one stage, that I felt as though I was dying, my thoughts began to turn to how I could get back to civilisation. I knew that my route on the next day would take me to a road from which I might be able to obtain a lift. Although I was very keen at least to walk to Mt Hotham, the end of the second stage, I decided that if my health did not improve and I met a car I would finish the trip there and then.

The next day I was still sick and unable to eat, but I found that I could get up even the steepest hills if I walked for 10 minutes and then rested for 10. After a while I settled down to this routine and in spite of my weakness began to enjoy the sen­ sation of added risk which all solo walkers feel.

I passed the road and was committed to walk through to Hotham. Coming over a crest of a slight rise near Mt Jim I surprised about a dozen brumbies. The stallion issued his challenge by running straight at me before turning to take his mob racing off across the plains.

I reached the ski resort of Mt Hotham in the mid-afternoon of the 14th day. From the kiosk the snows on Mt Howitt, 40 miles away, seemed very distant and I began to doubt whether I could reach them. The best thing to do, I decided before setting off on the next stage, was to spend two days recuperating in the house of a friend at Harrietville. The old gold mining town, with its tiny houses and shady trees, was a perfect place to rest up. Here also was the chance to telephone Niels, and as his leg had improved, though not completely, we arranged a rendezvous.

Days fifteen to nineteen: Mt Hotham to Mt Skene Niels Becker now rejoined me for the final stage down the Great Divide to Mt Skene. During days 15 and 16 we were mainly on jeep tracks. In places, especially between Mt Murray and Mt Selwyn, there were so many new logging roads that it was very difficult to know which track to take: the best thing to do, we found, was to stick to the ridge top.

Water was still a problem. Even at the places where we camped at Mt Selwyn and the foot of The Viking, it took an hour for us to get water from among the tree ferns in nearby deep gullies.

The section of our route from the Barry Saddle to Mt Speculation was the most mountainous and the wildest of the whole trip. There is no track but the route has been marked with red plastic preparatory to being cut this summer as part of a long distance walking track.

From the top of The Viking we looked across to the giant rock slabs on The Razor, probably Victoria's most rugged mountain. A_ few hours later we were working our way slowly through the maze of slabs and cliffs on the side of The Razor, a section which we both agreed provided the most interestinQ walking of the trip. Our evening camp at Mt Speculation was spoilt by a bulldozer which was hard at work until dark making another logging road.

From Mt Speculation we walked along a switchback-like ridge appropriately named the Cross Cut Saw, to Mt Howitt, Mt Clear and The Knobs. At one point we became separated in the bush for an hour. 8 Dr Niels Becker on the Viking. The Razor is in the background.

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10 On day 19 we followed the Great Divide on a tortuous route over Mt McDonald and Mt Sunday. After two climbs of about a thousand feet we hoped that the last few miles would be more even. But the ridge maintained its roller-coaster character. At seven-thirty we reached the Mt Skene fire-tower where we had food waiting for the four days to Walhalla. My leave was up and that was the end of the walk. When I totted up the map mileage it came to 312 miles, an average of 16 miles a day. We had walked for 10 to 12 hours each day.

Looking back, the most memorable aspect of the trip to me was the good feeling which comes from moving over vast distances. This was particularly evident in places like the Curango Plains where the day's effort could easily be measured at a glimpse from the passing mountains. The crossing of rivers, and travel in storms, especially in the wilderness sections, also contributed to the sensation of self-reliance and achieve­ ment.

Another major feature was the totally absorbing nature of the trip. Each day was full. The frustrating experience of arriving too early at an objective with nothing to do, which the motorist knows only too well, was completely absent. Perhaps in our case we devoted too much time to walking and not enough to rest stops and contem­ plation around the camp fire. The time we did spend in this way was treated like a precious liqueur.

Very little of the country we passed through is true wilderness. Man has been and left his mark in the form of seemingly endless fire-roads. But we looked out over extensive wild areas and, except where we crossed main roads, saw no one.

The wildlife provided appropriate company, especially the inquisitive Gang Gang cockatoos which flew close to us on nearly every day of the trip. One never tires of looking at the changing scenery but it is the constant sighting of wild animals which makes the enjoyment of the bush experience so intense.

First among my list of minuses for a trip of this kind is the pack. The name "Mountain Mule" inscribed on mine and Ken's hints at the problem. There is nothing wrong with packs except that you must carry the load. We often thought of the Aboriginals who once moved unburdened and free through this same country.

The conservation situation in Victoria contrasts greatly with that in NSW and the ACT. Timber getting in the Kosciusko National Park ended 25 years ago and all the stock has gone. As a result the area is a paradise for the walker. A plan for a big national park has official backing in the ACT, but in Victoria vested interests and a lack of Government imagination are serious obstacles to the creation of a similar park.

Victoria has not yet seen that the mountains have such a high value for the enjoyment of nature that it would be wasteful to divide the region up between a number of uses, including some of quite minor consequence. Even if parks and reserves are created in Victoria, there will also still be a need to define and keep some land, such as that around The Viking and The Razor, in a wilderness condition.

While NSW and the ACT lead in nature conservation, Victoria has taken the initiative in establishment of a long-distance walking track. The Forests Commission, with finance from the Ministry of Tourism and in cooperation with bushwalker groups, is doing a little each year on the establishment of the track while the other governments do not seem to have given much thought to it.

There are two ways in which the Victorian track can meet up with that in . One is the route which we followed from Tom Groggin; the other would link at Ouambat Flat farther east. There are various possible routes in the ACT. 11 It might be several years before a tri-State trail becomes an accomplished fact and large number of walkers are attracted. In the meantime there is plenty of scope for walks of the kind which we made; and for shorter walks such as one or more of our three sections.

There are no shops along the way so that it is a good idea to post food to a few convenient places such as Thredbo, Khancoban, Glen Valley, and Mt Hotham. Any walker who has had experience of carrying a moderately heavy pack and living and moving about in the bush would be well qualified to undertake a long walking trip of this kind.

With regard to equipment and food the aim must be the maximum possible light· ness without any sacrifice of safety in the form of warm and waterproof clothing. We took two pounds of food (mainly dehydrated) per day per person and had a maxi­ mum pack weight of 32 lb. At each food dump we indulged ourselves to the extent of cans of fruit juices, extra chocolate, and a clean set of underwear. Ken Myer thought­ fully arranged to have a piece of fresh meat and a salad brought in with him on his arrival and also when he was picked up at his departure. My wife even put in knobs of salami, something I can normally live without, but out there, after eating dried mincemeat for days on end, it tasted wonderful!

The temperate period of November and early December, before the flies arrive and when the wildflowers are in abundance, is probably the best time for walking. Before this or after March the weather would make things too risky for the more alpine areas.

If you feel your life needs an adventure I recommend a long walk in the Aus­ tralian alps.

JOHN DONNE • SON CHART HOUSE 372 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE

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12 TRAVELS WITH GRANDMA - BUDAWANG RANGE (Episode 2)

by G. Wills-Johnson

Have you forgiven us for all that strife we got you into last year? How was I to know that Grandma would accept the challenge to become Champion Tippler of the Wolgan Valley? Maybe we'd better try somewhere safer this year, where the nearest pub is thirty miles away. We haven't yet run out of spectacular places within 530 miles of Melbourne where those who don't walk won't feel that they haven't seen anything.

If there is only one way of approaching the Wolgan Valley, there are at least three ways of tackling the Budawang Range: from the west, from the north, and up the Clyde Valley from the south. Only the last of these is suitable for the base-camp - day-walk routine, but if all of your party is walking the other two approaches also deserve consideration. The whole area is covered by four contoured 1 :50,000 RASC maps: Ulladulla (1961), Corang (1959), Nerriga (1957) and (of peripheral importance only) Tianjara ( 1957), but for once there is an even better alternative in the *CMW map. Its advantages are a larger scale (1 Y2"=1 mile) and copious naming of

20 30 MILES

features. I shall give my references therefore in terms of the names on the June 1968 edition (4th ed.). This map contains a great deal of supplementary information and, while not contoured, has many spot elevations.

I will assume that you have loaded everything on board including Grandma and her pet parrot, and can find highway 1; so fairly obviously you will be wanting the Clyde Valley approach. 515 miles from dear old Flinders Street station (if you failed to cross a muddy brown creek in the first hundred yards you have made a mistake and are by now two states away from where you should be) you will come to the Termeil post office, and a little over a mile beyond this a white fingerboard pointing to the left saying "Pigeonhouse". Follow the signs to Pigeonhouse and you cannot go wrong. The first part of the road is a bit rough, but it improves a great deal after Flat Rock. If you are in the habit of driving along the Princes Highway often you will already know Pigeonhouse well, as that striking cone-shaped mountain seen from Yatteyattah. Few mountains anywhere in Australia have had their name longer: Capt. Cook spotted it from out to sea on 21 April 1770, and the name is his.

We Budawangs buffs don't really consider Pigeonhouse to be part of the Buda­ wangs at all, but a very gentle walk from the end of the branch road between Ar­ mours Creek and Double Creek (it has a signpost "Pigeonhouse") up onto the first plateau and thence up to Pigeonhouse itself is on a well-marked track and suitable for * Coast and Mountain Walkers of N.S.W. 13 all the family. The Shoalhaven Shire Council has put up a set of ladders to enable easy access up a chimney onto the top of the mountain, from whech an excellent preview of the Budawang Range proper is to be obtained.

The terrain is much more open than that of the Wolgan area, and has uplifted in at least two stages. This is shown by the way in which it is tiered into three (or even four) distinct levels. Looking across to The Castle in the north-west, you have the long crooked finger of Byangee Mountain (formerly Byangee Walls) at a lower level pointing towards you. It has lost its top layer altogether. At a lower level still on the right is the upper valley of the Clyde, the eastern side of which rises in three steps up to Talaterang Mountain, the summit of which is on a slightly higher level than where you are standing. Looking out to the west the whole length of the range can be seen with sheer walls plunging down to the valley of the , and on the horizon the smooth treeless cone of Corang Peak points up marking the route in from the Mongarlowe Road, which we will come to presently.

There is a good campsite just across the bridge over the Clyde near Yadboro Flat, although if you are going to tackle The Castle via Kalianna Ridge it might be more convenientto camp on the Yadboro River; while if on the other hand you are heading for Byangee or Talaterang, it is quite possible to drive any car up Deadman's Gulph Road (to which the 4WD annotation on the map no longer applies) and camp on the green open space you will already have noticed from the top of Pigeonhouse, near the river.

The main tracks through the area are all marked on the map and easy to follow on the ground, so no detailed description is necessary. Many of them skirt the bases of the cliffs. The two outstanding features of the area, The Castle and Monolith Valley, are both accessible from your base camp at the foot of Kalianna Ridge, and if you start early and keep up a reasonable pace it should be possible to visit both in the one day. It is a bit of a scramble where Kalianna Ridge comes up to the lower cliff around the base of The Castle, and those of us who consider that we are bush WALKERS and that rockclimbers have rocks in their heads, might have to bend our principles a little on the last stage up onto the highest plateau at Meakins Pass. At one stage it is necessary to crawl along a rather narrow ledge, although this should not be any real trouble unless you suffer from acrophobia or obesity. The last bit, a little further on, calls for a bit of hands-knees-and-back work in a chimney. Having come all this way, however, it would be a pity to let your higher principles prevent you from making it up the last fifty feet. Once on top it is a bracing walk across an open treeless rock plateau (many of the Budawangs plateaux are treeless) to the south end of The Castle where there is a book to sign, and the opposite view of Byangee Mountain, far below, pointing crookedly at Pigeonhouse.

It is now time to return to extricate Grandma from where she got stuck in the rock tunnel on the way up, and having done so, to proceed to Monolith Valley. This is an inspiring sight when you are standing on its floor, but it is even more so seen from above. If you are a bit short of time the quickest way of obtaining such a view is to rockhop up the cool green overgrown canyon between Mts Owen and Cole until you find the path (cairned) marked "Pass down gully" on the map, whence access to the north-east corner of Owen is very easy. A better view, however, is from the south­ east corner of Mt Cole. Pass up its east side, with The Seven Gods on your right. At the last God, which is only a baby one (a demigod, perhaps?), you get your first view out to the north across the wide valley of Holland Gorge. You will be unable to resist the temptation to sit on the smallest God's head, but having done so, go on into the canyon between Mt Cole and Mt Donjon, and you will find Cole an easy climb up the open rock terraces on your left. The view of Monolith Valley and Niebelung Crags from the south-east corner of its summit (it is another rocky plateau without trees) is spectacular. 14 BUDAWANG RANGES

0 3 6 9 MILf.S ;:-.::==-=~== Roads and 4WD track!> (Appro•. Scale) - ...... _...,.-..__ Import-ant walkin'3 tracks, or those. referred to i" u­ artiele.

~ Very steep slope.s· layer• or diff.s. Fonnrn9 WEST() fOSTER I'IT. ~- NOTE: Thi~ map e not l:o scale. For further d1doils see. maps referred to in khe. artie!Q, ... 1 MT. Hoom.E1.1~ .....~ ~ •...,... 1 .,_ •• ~·;;oiNT ~~~ 'rl' 1 \~ CJ1 I iPFI l'-W~-.... ~ #~-'. L___1..,_.,; r .1t-/ ~~ c Ill

w ,,,~"'"~ ,..V? = ;M- ,..(;OG WOG ,1/1~ "OUNTAIN \ Great outdoors gear

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16 Part of Monolith Valley in the Budawang Range. It is seen from Mt Cole.

If your base camp is over on the Clyde, north of Byangee Mountain, you are looking up at the scenery from below. Although no tracks are marked, it is an easy scramble up to the base of any of the surrounding cliffs, and from all such points magnificent panoramic views of the Clyde Valley can be obtained. If you happen to climb up to the north wall of Byangee and follow it along to Castle Gap, do not neglect to cross over the saddle to The Castle side to have a look at the natural arch, which is an almost perfect quarter circle of rock about fifteen feet high. This can actually be seen from down on the road if you know where to look. No way is shown on the map for getting to the top of Byangee Mountain, but if you have an irrepressible desire to go there and no helicopter, Castle Gap is where I would commence to search for an access route.

By the time the kids are old enough to go on easy walks, the odds are that you will be too old to go on anything else. It is at this stage that the western access, from the Mongarlowe Road, becomes of interest. You will have to go through Braid­ wood, so the options from Melbourne are either via Canberra or via . Take the Braidwood-Nowra road, which starts just out of town on the Canberra side. Turn off to the right a few miles before Nerriga where a prominent fingerboard indicates the road to Mongarlowe. Park cars where the CMW map says "1st gate". This can be identified by the fact that there are two gates both using the same gatepost, which is at the end of a fence separating two adjoining paddocks. Your track starts from the gate on the right. The great advantage of approaching the range from this end is that from Korra Hill onwards magnificent views of the whole range, and out over the main scarp to the sea, are obtained all along the way, and yet the grades are very easy and the country is very open. Admiration Point is a must. From here you will be able to identify most of the prominent features along the southern edge of the range. The view south-west towards Currockbilly Mountain is much more in the 17 Victorian style of scenery, and affords an interesting contrast. Do not neglect to see Corang Arch, which is the biggest of the natural arches, before going down the Con­ glomerate Slope to Canowie Brook.

A feature of walking in the Budawangs is that you never need a tent. The camping caves marked on the map are actually cliff overhangs up to 20 ft wide with sandy floors. The two marked on the west side of Mt Cole are the best to make for in a day's walk in from the west. There are two marks in the rock at the waterhole near the more northerly of these which I am assured by a friend with some experience in these matters are aboriginal in origin: certainly they do not look natural. Either of these caves makes a good base for exploring Monolith Valley etc., the advantages over the southern access being no 2000 ft climb, and a lot more scenery on the way in. An interesting variation for the return trip is to follow down the . While less dramatic than the route along the edge of the scarp, on a cool and cloudless day in autumn this route is a delight.

Sydney walkers tend to come in from the north, turning off the Braidwood-Nowra road at Sassafras. The road is rather rough in places, but any car will come in as far as the sawmill site about a mile south of Newhaven Gap, and if you are ambitious or drive a VW you will probably get in nearly as far as "The Vines". From here your route is via Mt Houghton and over the top of Mt Tarn. Be warned against trying to bash down the creek after finding the exit from Tarn - swing hard right along the base of the rocks and follow out to the spur at the west end. The dotted lines on the map seem to imply that the track leaves the rock face almost immediately, which it does not.

Of interest if you are over in this part is a trek around the northern side of Mt Houghton where no track is shown. You will shortly come to a creek inside a cave which is not only an excellent source of water but a natural cold shower as well, and some fifty yards beyond this a small but adequate camping cave not shown on the map. Just after the cave (from which there are pleasant views across Styles Plain towards Sturgiss Mountain) you swing sharply around a point, and if you search around here a little further on you will find a narrow fissure which leads you up onto the top of Mt Houghton - onto the roof of your camping cave in fact. The views of Holland Gorge, Darri Head and Shrouded Gods are magnificent from the high rocks on the south-eastern side of the summit. A whole morning can be spent exploring the top of Mt Houghton, which is a sort of miniature Budawang Range in itself, with its own isolated valleys separated by rocky outcrops. Persistence will find you a route right out to the western end of the mountain, from which you will be able to pick out the exposed parts of the track you followed in from the Mongarlowe Road last time.

There is a great deal more that could be said about the Budawangs, but I fear that have already taken up far too much space, so I will have to content myself with having told you how to get there and where to begin, and leave it to you to become addicted and to discover the rest of the range for yourself.

18 CLASSICAL ANALOGIES

By Warren Baker

The walker through the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park will be struck by the odd names of the distinguishing landmarks along the track. Throughout this area there is a constant reminder of the giants of classical mythology and the scribes and commentators who helped shape and interpret that mythology. Most of the classical names in this area were given by the Surveyor-General George Frankland, in 1835, and the later cartographers have tended to follow the classical pattern. This pattern is based upon an understanding of the origin of creation in Greek Mythology,

The earth mother (Ge) and the sky (Uranos) united to produce the Titans, the Giants and the Nymphs. The chief Titan was Kronos who rebelled and overthrew Uranos and became lord of the Universe. Kronos in his turn was overthrown by his son Zeus. From this stage of evolution the Greek myths become very complicated and almost impossible to give a cogent summary .In this article I wish to outline those features of mythology which are associated with the landmarks along the track from Cradle Mount to Lake St Clair. Because of the complexity the core of these myths is presented in the form of a glossary.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • * * • • • • • • * * * * *

Achilles; - Achilles was the son of Peleus (King of Phthia in Thessaly) and Thetis. He was dipped by his mother in the waters of the river Styx and hence became invul­ nerable except for the part of his heel where his mother held him. Hence the origin of "Achilles Heel".

Acropolis;- An Acropolis was a fortified citadel in ancient Greece. It was usually the nucleus of a city. The most famous was in Athens, on which was built the Parthenon. The original name of the Tasmanian Acropolis was the Porcupine due to the spine like appearance of rocks on the ridge.

Athena; - Pallas Athena was the daughter of Zeus the chief of the Greek Gods. She was patron goddess of Athens. Lake Athena and Lake Pallas are twin lakes in the Travellers Range.

Byron,·- Named after George Gordon Byron (1788-1824). An English poet, liber­ tine and fanatical philhellene who joined the cause to liberate Greece from the Turks. He died of fever at Missolonghi.

Cephissus; - A river in Greece and in Greek mythology was the river god and father of Narcissus.

Cynthia Bay; - One of the many names of Diana. The Greek goddess of the moon.

Doris;- The Wife of Nereus, an ancinet Sea god who was subsequently displaced by Poseidon.

Eros;- He was the god of love.

Geryon; - Geryon was a mythological monster with three heads. He was king of Godes, an island off the coast of Spain. The tenth labour of Hercules was to carry off the wonderful herd of cattle which belonged to Geryon. 19 '~ 1972 .. . 2000 .. . 2100 . . . 2200 .. . For today ... and the centuries ahead

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FORESTS COMMISSION, VICTORIA ll Helen,· - Prince Paris of Troy spent his early life on Mount Ida and had Oenone the nymph of Ida as his wife. He deserted Oenone and carried off Helen, the wife of Menelaus, king of Sparta. This precipitated the Trojan wars. The plateau on in contains the twin lakes of Helen and Oenone.

Hyperion,·- A son of Uranos and Ge. In Greek mythology he is identified by Homer and other writers with Helios the sun god. Hyperion was the last of the Titans and was subsequently overthrown by Apollo.

Ida; - There are two possible derivations; (a) Ida is the name of a mountain in Phygia in Asia Minor. The rivers Simais and Scamander had their sources on Ida. As it was near Troy the gods were able to watch the Trojan war from its summit. (b) There was another Mount Ida in Crete and Zeus was brought up in a cave on this mountain.

Laura,·- Lake Laura is named after the Laura whom Petrach loved and about whom he wrote so fervently.

Manfred; - Was the subject of one of Byron's dramas. He was king of Sicily and was renowned for his beauty, character, and intellect.

Mars,· - This mountain was originally named Sumer which is Remus in reverse. Mars was the Roman god of war and reputedly the father of Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome.

Mt Pelion West (5100 ft) looking across Pine Forest Moor. The mighty Mt Ossa is seen in the distance along with Mt Thetis. Mt Achilles is just visible. 21 ()~Ttl~ TVAil Victoria is not only blessed with some of the finest bush-walking country in Australia, it is dedicated to seeing that it stays that way. For bush-walkers attracted by challenge and adventure, Victoria's Alpine Hiking Track is the answer. Through 300 miles of spectacular forest country from Mount Erica to Forest Hill, the marked track winds a tortuous way across Victoria's mountain spine.

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Walkers checking a trail-marker on the trunk of a Victorian forest giant.

22 Narcissus;- He was a beautiful youth, son of the river god Cephissus and the nymph Liriope. He saw his image reflected in a fountain and fell in love with it. He strove to approach this beautiful object but was driven to despair and subsequently death and was changed into a flower.

Nereus;- He was the father of the fifty sea nymphs called Nereids.

Olympus; - A mountain in Thessaly 9700 feet high. After Kronos was banished Zeus, Poseidon, and Hades cast lots for the various kingdoms. Zeus won heaven, Poseidon the sea and Hades the underworld. Earth became their common property and Olympus their common dwelling place, along with the other gods. Mt Olympus in the Cradle Mount National Park is 4746 feet.

Ossa; - This is another large mountain in Thessaly (6409 ft). Under Zeus times were hard and the giants revolted and piled Ossa on Pelion in order to reach heaven and overthrow Zeus.

Parthenon;- The Parthenon was the temple to the goddess Athena in Athens.

Pelion; - The Cradle Mount contains East and West Pelion. Pelion is also a mountain in Thessaly (5308 ft). It was the home of the centaurs and was used by the giants in their revolt against Zeus.

Petrach; - Francesco de Petrach ( 1304-1374), was a poet and founder of the Italian renaissance. He was a commentator on the Latin poets and his work also includes the Laura love poems.

Remus;- One of the founders of Rome (See Mars).

Rufus;- A Roman poet and friend of Virgil and Horace.

Sappho;- A greek poetess of the 7th Century BC.

Thetis; - One of the sea deities and a daughter of Nereus and Doris. She became wife of Peleus, king of Phthia. It was foretold that her child would be greater than his father, a prophecy fulfilled by the birth of her son Achilles.

Undine;- In Greek mythology a water spirit.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

These then are the stories behind the nomenclature of the main features of the Cradle Mount National Park in Tasmania, and a trip through this park serves to bring bushwalkers into touch with some of the most beautiful features of the classics.

A very detailed account of the myths is given in the two volumes of "The Greek Myths" by Robert Graves (Penguin Books).

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24 ANODOPETALUM BIGLANDULOSUM IN SITU

(or We Love Horizontal)

By Jon Cairns

Twelve mainland walkers huddled together on a mountaintop on the verge of Tasmania's Southwest one summer's day. Heavily clad to keep out the sharp cool mountain wind, they gazed hopefully south to west, where dark green ridges merged indiscernibly with the uncertain sky, where black gaunt peaks rose to command the horizon like impregnable castles, and where white tattered clouds and rising mists mingled uneasily as dark storm clouds that had released a deluge hours previously moved mercifully eastward.

Despite the forbidding terrain and unpredictable weather, most of us felt to be on the edge of a new discovery, for, months previously, we had traced vast mountain ranges and the course of mighty rivers on contour maps, sustained by apparitions kindled in our minds by some campfire conversation at home. Now it all lay at our feet waiting; Lake Pedder, , and Frenchman's Cap. At the moment the weather appeared far from promising, nevertheless, imbued with the enthusiasm that commences every week, we descended to the broad alpine moreland below our look­ out in search of a campsite.

The Gateway to the Southwest lies 11 miles west of , between Mount Tim Shea and the Needles, the latter an impressive edifice of magnesium limestone. The road that is bringing despoliation to the Southwest reaches its highest point here, and as our cars reached the crest we stopped. From the Thumbs we traced the formidable Sawback Range south to Mount Wedge, faint in the middle distance. North of the Thumbs, where the meanders peacefully along the Vale of Rasselas, rose Mount Wright and Reed's Peak clad in shreds of mist. We continued, and the roadside became a moving filmstrip of changing terrain -broad button grass plains, fine stands of commercial eucalypt, and wet forests of myrtle and sassafras, the haunts of dreaded horizontal scrubbe.

At Frodsham's Pass the road forked, south to Scott's Peak, west to Strathgordon. Following the route south we descended rapidly to the Huon Plains, and shortly looked up to see the mammoth summit of Mount Anne. The sight of this great boulder-strewn mass was very humbling and we wondered no longer why the South­ west was so beautiful and so compelling.

We abandoned our cars where the track met the road, and in the man­ ner of true bushwalkers plunged purposely into the lands of Gymnoschoenus adjustus and Sludgudius felixii. Enter obstacle one; the Huon footbridge, half submerged and about to collapse. Fortunately the hand cables were intact and as twangy as harp strings. So at the expense of dry feet we waded gingerly across the torrent without incident.

The track paused in a clearing, then lurched off into the button grass like an intoxicated railway line until it struck a belt of rain forest close to a bend in the river. Then, forcing through the perimeter of scrub and cutting grass, it emerged onto the Huon Plains proper, the soggy steppes of the Southwest. now loomed up and soon we forsook the track and struck out towards it, seeking the lower slopes where the going would be easier. But it was found to our disgust that the button grass flourished almost to the ridge top of Solitary itself. Little need be said then of our exhausting bash to Lake Pedder. It was safer than the plains, but small scrub-choked gullies that impeded progress frequently appeared. Nevertheless the weather remained benign and fleeting views of Giblin and the Franklands spirited us on. 25 After five hours of mudbashing along the base of Solitary we detached ourselves from the clinging morass, forded a creek in style, and climbed onto the low saddle between the Frank lands and Solitary. In a short time we were standing on the high sand dune that guards Lake Pedder from the swamps, gazing across broad white sands and calm, shimmering waters to a backdrop of misty golden peaks. It was the magic of the mountains, a pearl of rare beauty, beyond price, a rose among thorns, distilled from rock and water by metamorphic time. Yet man in his ignorance was soon to destroy it, and like small children we could not reason why.

We awoke next morning to find the sky leaden and the Franklands draped in a thick scotch mist. I sounded reveille at 0800, anticipating that all would want to go climbing anyway. But by 0900 when all but two had arisen, this was not so. Not even Felix was interested. Before very long unflappable Alma had stirred several to action, and together they set off to circumnavigate the lake. Warren and Maria made no appearance at all, and after much diligent searching, I found their tents tucked away behind the dune.

From time to time during the day individuals drifted away from the glowing camp­ fire, and strolled along the broad corrugated beach of fine clean sand, paddling in the copper-coloured shallows, at times peering hopefully upwards to where the brown hillsides disappeared into the ceiling of cloud. At times a fleeting ray of sun­ light would pierce the gloom, giving vitality to the trees and dancing on the rippled lake surface. Then as quickly it would disappear. Darkness came imperceptibly; the beachcombers came back to the fire and relished its warmth. And the cold wet wind blew unrelentingly on.

To our delight next morning the lake and mountains lay gleaming in bright sun­ shine under a cloud-cleansed sky. Unwisely, it seems now, we retraced out steps back into the bogs, out of sight. The leader, haunted by delusions of grandeur, decided for variety to climb Solitary from end to end. It sounded easy, and for a time it was. The climb was pleasantly dry and presently the Eastern Arthurs, the Sentinels, Wedge and Anne turned out for an inspect1on parade. Lake Pedder lay far below, as smooth as glass, and as blue as the open sea, and we could see aircraft landing and taxiing along the smooth beach.

But before long the difficulties associated with the unfamiliar altitude over­ whelmed us and we headed back to the bogs down a well-defined spur. By late after­ noon we reached the road and drove a short distance south to Condominion Creek to camp. A small dry site was soon found, but others which lay further upstream amid the ubiquitous button grass and melaleuca were less desirable. Throughout the day the weather had rapidly deteriorated and just before dusk the rain bucketed down in Hughie's inimitable style.

With the morning came deceptively clear skies and the angry babble of a swollen stream. As the sun gathered altitude clouds of moisture rose in ghostly spirals to swirl and eddy in the gentle breeze.

The route to Mount Anne lay up the steep and muddy Eliza Spur, then across a broad scree-strewn plateau. In due course the southwest peaks turned on their usual parade with Anne in command, and we fervently hoped that she would not go off duty early. But soon, to our disgust, the wind drew a curtain of cloud swiftly over the mountains and robbed us of our objective. Nevertheless views of Lake Judd from Mount Eliza were to be had. Like inquisitive angels peering down from a stationary cloud, we were entranced by the sheer ruggedness and dizzy heights of the Anne Range, a vast amphitheatre of decaying rock. The ice-fed tarns and pools below the summit, having no stream in which to flow, simply plunged in miniature waterfalls to the base of the cirque thousands of feet below. Hours later, it seemed, we reluctantly descended to Condominion Creek, and when eyes did not have to concentrate on the ground, we could steal hasty glances across to the serrated horizon that was rapidly disappearing from view. • • • • • • 26 • • • • • • The Needles as seen from the Strathgordon Rd .

New Norfolk, midday ; a sleepy, old world town on the Derwent River; our re­ supply point. The weather; warm, but cloudy, and indications of a belt of high pres­ sure moving eastwards over the Australian Bight. The three-hour· drive to Derwent Bridge later that day was punctuated by frequent rainstorms, and it was with relief that we arrived at Cynthia Bay, where we met our old friend the Ranger, and eight fellow club members just through after eight soggy days in the central Reserve.

We took to the road again early next morning uttering brief thanks to the rain god, Hughie, who was going to New Zealand for a holiday. At 0930, having left our cars in a safe place by the Frenchman's Cap signpost, we set off along the track, packs aweigh, down to the . No wet crossing here for an aerial cableway spanned it from bank to bank. "Two at a time now, steady as she goes, and don't get the ropes tangled."

The track ascended unerringly through the forest to Mullens Saddle where for the first and last time that day the Frenchman appeared. We now began to appreciate the immensity of his bulk, and seriously wondered if he was in fact surmountable. Soon he was lost to view as the track descended rapidly to the Loddon Plains and deterior­ ated into an indescribable quagmire. Although the plains were relatively 'dry' at the time, they quickly become inundated in violent weather.

A word of advice regarding amphibious progression. Avoid side-stepping using hastily considered deviations. Just barge in, hooting joyfully. And don't worry about the leeches. They won't eat much!

We waded due south for about four miles until the track swung west up Philp's Lead, seeking the sanity of high ground where the clinging bogs could not reach. A belt of cool myrtle forest refreshed us before we trudged through another mile of mud, until at last we dropped over the moraine and reached Lake Vera. 27 which twin is carrying ALLIANCE 'LITE PAK' freeze dry foods

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28 The lake was surrounded on three sides by prec1p1tous ridges clothed in dense forest that grew to the water's edge. As a campsite it left much to be desired. Its northern shore was choked by reeds and a muddy bottom precluded us from ob­ taining clear water or washing decently. The hut was sturdy enough, it seemed, as long as good weather prevailed. But there were several clearings nearby on high ground, in the vicinity of a clear stream.

At 0730 next morning as the sun's rays gilded the milky-white ramparts of the mountains we skirted the lakeside to the foot of Barron Pass, the last but most for­ midable obstacle, rising 1200 feet to the Frenchman Range. It is reached by a steep unrelenting climb over small rockfaces, boulders, fallen timber, through muddy defiles, fast-flowing streams and dark green forests where damp woody odours permeate the air, and beneath mighty overhanging cliffs that drip moisture. At times the bright sun broke through the dense canopy of foliage to remind us of its presence.

Two hours later, hot and breathless, we staggered onto the Pass, only to be swept off our feet by a magnificent sight. Crowding the sky was the huge south face of the Cap, and its neighbour, the Clytemnaestra, like huge pitted icebergs in a sea of green, and far below lay numerous tarns dotting the deep and forbidding valley.

Lake Tahune lay directly below the northern side of the Cap, and was reached after a further 1 ~ hours walking through the charred and whitened remnants of scrub and pine, monument to man's destruction in this otherwise untarnished wilderness. From the lake we ascended a sort of chute over tricky rock fragments onto the quartz of the summit bloc.

But wait. Until this time the Frenchman welcomed the sun. Now a crown of cloud covers the tip of his crown. Submit? Never! And not until we had propped exhausted against the summit cairn did we pause to consider what consequences we might have to face.

Then miraculously the sharp cold wind diluted the cloud and pushed it clear. Far below lay a labyrinth of tortuous ridges and glinting tarns. Again the curtain was drawn; again it parted. It was as though thermal air currents were forcing the cloud ceiling higher and higher, as one by one distant peaks appeared and were identified. The sun broke through once again and we responded gladly to its warmth. We forgot our exhaustion, and cast our eyes over the multitude of peaks, all seemingly paying deference to us and their King. A feeling of timelessness and immense satisfaction crept over us, and most of all, a knowledge that an ambition had been achieved.

Little need be said of our return to the Lyell Highway next day except that our desire to put the button grass behind us as soon as possible outweighed all other considerations. And it was resolved, in view of the prevailing good weather, to camp at the Franklin River. So we had inspiration for our travels. Encouraged by the hordes of mozzies that inhabited the Loddon River environs we reached our destination by the tonic waters of the Franklin at 2.30.

And what a memorable camp that was. A refreshing plunge in the shallows, tents up, and a laze in the warm, drowsy sunshine. Dinner, a leisurely chore. For hours that evening we sat on the river bank listening to the rippling, chuckling music of the water, peering up through the slender trees to the blue, white, windless, cloudless sky. Oh, to be at the Frenchman now, with the sun's parting rays glowing on its spectral white quartz, instilling in the wilderness the peace of evening.

What a strange lot we bushwalkers are? Enduring discomfort and disconsolation, searching for the pot of gold at the foot of the rainbow. We are still searching, but now and then we pick up tiny nuggets on the way. Then, forgetting those memories best forgotten, we continue on undaunted, the camera of our mind having captured with crystalline clarity our finest moments. Come with us to the foot of the rainbow, in Tasmania, soon. 29 RIVERS OF ROCK AND BRUMBV TRACKS

By F.W. Halls

For many years past at the New Year a group of us have wandered over alpine meadows in Victoria. On a trip to the Cobberas in 1966 the crew comprised Curley, Big Jim, a most relaxed character, Young lance, an incomparable humourist and irrepressible wag and of course our fearless (?) leader. The trip was at the time one of the least enjoyable of our January rambles in the high country, the reason being that it was by far the hottest. As day followed searing January day the ------bush flies became more persistent, being with us for every waking hour except for the very rare moments when a cool breeze was blowing. Not long after piccaninny daylight, before the sun rose behind the bronze-barked Black Sallees there would be a dull buzz increasing in volume to a loud hum as millions of bush flies, march flies, large striped aggressive hornets and assorted whatnots warmed up early for their chosen task of making a misery of the existence of the poor misguided bushwalkers. In retrospect, however, the trip became enjoyable and memorable because of the rugged splendour of the , the rivers of red rock and the peaceful flats of Wombargo country.

leaving Wulgulmerang and the near the front gate of Black Mountain Station in the early morning of what promised to be another torrid day, we journeyed to Rockbank Station, home of the hospitable Rogers clan, where we parked the cars under shade near the rambling homestead. A couple of hours later we set off. Going out of the gate in the back fence we noticed that the jeep track was dry and dusty, so different to the mired track and freezing wind on our earlier trip to Mount Strad­ broke. By the time we reached Omeo Creek the sun was glaring at full blast; the creek was mostly dry. A stream of the stop-go variety, it would trickle a few yards then disappear into the rocky bed, then reappear some distance downstream; we thought maybe this boded ill for water supply in the high country. Fortunately, the little River, 250 yards distant, was running strongly down its bright sandy bed; fruit saline and cold clear water made lunch seem much more palatable while we rested in the meagre shade. After lunch we returned to Omeo Creek and rested during the hotter hours in the denser shade.

Our jeep track from Rockbank was joined at Omeo Creek by a wide road under construction which for the next six miles paralleled the old jeep track. The new road blasted from rhyo-dacite boulders climbed upwards in unrelenting fashion, while our old friend the jeep track approached the heights in a series of steps past some delight­ ful green flats.

The day's heat and the steady climb found us making heavy weather of the ap­ proach to 2nd Emu Flat. Fortunately, we found that there were many small soaks still running so we thought that this augured well for the water situation on high plains and sphagnum flats, even though the season was abnormally dry. On arrival at 2nd Emu Flat our doubts regarding the water supply were soon dispelled as we found the moss bogs were mainly in fair condition even though there was some evi­ dence of the trampling of sphagnum moss by cattle and brumbies and also the scouring of flats caused by the rolling of brumbies.

What a delightful spot 2nd Emu Flat proved to be; a perfect camp site on deep emerald grass beneath the shade of twisted snow gums; ample wood and water; a peaceful spot sloping gently through thick springy grass.

The stamping of hooves and indignant snorting by wild horses in the wee small hours reminded us that we were now in the heart of brumby country. Indeed we had been ever since we passed through the back fence of Rockbank Station. In the follow­ ing five days we saw many small groups of these fine wild horses on the grasslands of the eastern high country. 30 COBB ERAS AND NORTHERN ROCKY RANGE

PEAK

I 'I I I _,.) / " 0 ,/ MILES

AltoludOZ& in feet.

31 Following the jeep track past 2nd Emu Flat and rounding the flank of Worn­ barge Peak the raw road wound down to the green valley of Rocky Plains Creek. Zig-zagging up from Rocky Plains Creek we passed several of Wombargo's many strange rivers of rock. These periglacial rock rivers are acid lava rock of "Snowy River Volcanics" - rhyodacite - and were deeply scored by bygone glaciers into large delta fans of jumbled red-brown boulders.

There was no living plant in the valleys, only silvered snow gums on the upper slopes. Every hollow on Wombargo's flanks was filled with tumbled "organ pipes", mansize columns and boulders occupying the rocky deltas below The Peak. A glance at the Mines Department Cobberas map will show the extent of these periglacial rock rivers. We found this region intensely interesting, and even more widespread than some of Tassie's periglacial moraines.

Returning to the jeep track this burning day found us straggling around the side of Wombargo and up to the ridge between the Buchan and Suggan Buggan waters. We expected to pass the side track to James Flat. but not a sign of it did we see. We were following The Playgrounds trail, a rough stony track making upward leaps towards the southwest end of the Ram's Head Range (5,400 feet).

It was quite evident that within the previous couple of years a bushfire of some size had swept through much of the country between Emu Flats and The Cobberas, denuding the bush down to the red-brown lava rock. All the valley flats were green and unspoiled, but there were so many spots where the wildfire had burnt to the very edge of the snow gum forest. How we wished that some giant being would draw a screen of puffy clouds across the face of the sun. Whenever Old Sol was blazing the temperature soared at least 200 because of the heat reflecting from the bare bones of the mountains. With normal scrub growth the greenery tends to insulate and absorb some of the heat, but this day there was no mercy from the sun's rays.

It was about this juncture that the leader had to decide whether to continue on the more round-about route of the jeep track around the far end of Ram's Head or to find a short cut through a gap in the western end of the Ram's Head Range down into The Playgrounds. A magnificent panorama from the highest upthrust peak of the Western Ram's Head (5,500 feet). a view of The Playgrounds valley and the Big Cobberas supplied the answer and enabled the leader to navigate through the gap into The Playgrounds where, at the end of another fiery day, we camped under the shady Black Sallees. This was an excellent camp site by the crystal creek that bubbled down from knobbly old En-a-no (an old aboriginal name for the highest peak in the Cob­ beras).

The Playgrounds (what visions this name conjures to the mind) is a fertile plain three miles long following the course of Native Dog Creek and is the natural haunt of brumbies and kangaroos, and the summer fattening ground of Rockbank Herefords. It nestles beneath the rocky brown crags of the Ruined Castle (5,400 feet). We had heard before about this mountain, and just as soon as we saw its upflung towers we knew that this must be the peak. There would be some fine rock climbing on the Castle's broken towers, and on the vertical lava shelves south of craggy En-a-no.

We rested content in our snow gum haven and left early next morning without packs on the climb to boulder strewn En-a-no (6,025 feet). Once again our leader guided the group unerringly over the burning rocks and the snow gum benches to the massive red-brown boulders on the Cobberas' crest. There was quite a fine view from the summit, but not as dramatic as the elevation would suggest. The summit of En-a-no comprises rocky canyons, glades of twisted snow gums divided by massive red-brown lava boulders, jagged outcrops of rhyo-dacite covered by thick masses of colourful mosses and lichens. 32 The Crest of the Cobberas

The most striking facet of this high range was the rugged coronet of massive boulders along its north-south ridge, separated by deep mossy green clefts above glacial moraines. A tract of rock just below Middle Peak reminded me vividly of the fluted dolerite on some of Tassie's peaks. Brown spires and turrets formed the crest of En-a-no's ridge, the section near being extremely photogenic. Viewed from north to south The Cobberas range comprises :tt 2, Moscow Peak, Cleft Peak, Middle Peak and En-a-no.

While we were perched high on The Cobberas boulders the breeze was pleasant although the sun blazed from a cloudless blue; off to the east on the steep Snowy ridges half a dozen miles away there was a creeping pall of bushfire smoke. The view to the west and south encompassed lush sod tussock grasslands of The Playgrounds and the other watersheds draining off to the Buchan River; while north and east there were extensive views over most of the broken red Suggan Buggan country. The return route to our Playgrounds camp was mostly by following brumby tracks down along Buchan creek water courses.

Next day we lounged around in the shade of the bronze-barked snow gums, a rest day after our exertions in the heat of the past three days. While we were camped there a large herd of Rockbank Herefords was driven up from Black Mountain for summer pasturing. In the shade Big Jim battled incessantly with dive-bombing hornets, while young Lance ate constantly. What, not another instant pudding?

We shared the long flat with sleek red and white Rogers' cattle while brumbies cavorted unafraid at the far side below the Ruined Castle. Near the end of our sojourn at The Playgrounds flats there seemed a noticeable slowing in the flow of 33 FOR A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP BUY A PURADOWN SLEEPING BAG

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34 Native Dog Creek, although in early morning the flow would temporarily increase, due, no doubt, to the overnight precipitation of dew.

After nearly three relaxed days below Ruined Castle we set off very early (6.20) on the morning of the fifth day and headed along the jeep track past the huge boulders and upthrust horn of Buchan Rock. The name of Ram's Horn seems to suit much better, especially when seen from Mt Seldom Seen and all other vantage points to the south. It was quite a heavy slog upwards between the various outcrops of reddish rhyo-dacite during the early hours. In the next deep saddle we thought we could detect a faint cattle pad heading northwards along a side creek feeding the main Play­ grounds valley. There seemed little doubt that it was the cattle trail from Black Mountain to northern pastures, the mode of entry for the Rogers' Herefords, the drover and his hard-working dogs. A mile or so further on we had no trouble in finding the turnoff for the alternative route, namely a short cut cattle pad through several fertile grasslands where varied wildflowers grew thickly among the springy grass. So with relief we left the stony jeep track.

There were numerous good camp sites under the silvered snow gums bordering the various flats: James Flat, Square Flat and those along Rocky Plains Creek. It was much more pleasant walking than the dry and stony going of the jeep track. The eye was constantly soothed by the recurring restful greens; although the day was sultry it was much more pleasant than on our outward journey. We passed a stock­ yard, sliprails and a cattleman's hut close to another lush flat on Rocky Plains Creek. It was very pleasant ambling along through the dappled shade of a grove of shapely snow gums until we rejoined the road on the northern slopes of Wombargo.

That night we camped in entirely different weather conditions at 2nd Emu Flat. Even in the few days since we had last camped there we noticed a slackening in the water flow, and the effect of some recent cattle-tramping in the sphagnum morasses. The same evening we explored the environs of this lovely flat, and found it to be much more extensive than at first sight.

Overnight, a heavy fog descended on the nearby Wombargo (5,400 feet) and The Peak causing abandonment of the plan to ascend its summit the next day. On the return trip to Rockbank Station we followed the leafy old cattle pad through snow gums down the long spur, forsaking the raw rocky surfaces of the new road. On the way down startled kangaroos and brumbies fled away from our path. There were moments of rare enchantment spent wandering down along the small green flats of this cool upland world. The cattle trail descends the spur past 1st Emu Flat, another wide grassland but unfortunately there was no water then in the old soaks.

The fog persisted at higher levels and the walking was the most pleasant of the whole trip, but as we reached the billowing plains of the now dry as dust Wulgulmerang Plateau, indigo Wombargo shed its wreath of clouds and once more the sun shone strongly as we plodded wearily up the last rolling slopes to journey's end at Rock­ bank Cattle Station.

Then heigho for three lovely cool beers in the distant Buchan pub. How we laughed at young Lance flirting with the pretty waitress in the cafe, all our cares forgotten.

NOTE: Since the time of the walk described the road from Black Mountain to Limestone Creek has been completed, therefore it is now possible to drive within about five miles of The Cobberas.

35 PEDDER LIVES

The year 1972 will be considered by conservationists and bushwalkers everywhere as one of the blackest years in Australia's history. For this is the year in which the gigantic Hydro-Electricity Commission of Tasmania, backed by both the Liberal and Labor parties of the same state (and presumably the Commonwealth parties as well), carried out an act of wanton destruction almost unparalleled in the history of man­ kind - the flooding of Lake Pedder. In addition to the loss of this exchantingly beautiful lake under the crushing weight of the HEC power scheme there will also be an associated loss of numerous species of animals and insects which are endemic to the shores of Lake Pedder and Lake Pedder alone.

Although other aspects of Australia's heritage have been lost before the present time (and Tasmania has the worst possible record in this respect), Lake Pedder ranks supreme in terms of environmental and scientific importance. So much so that an alternative scheme should have been found. There is something radically wrong where economic and engineering theory have precedence over people and the environment, and where decisions which affect eco-systems can be made by engineering authorities, who are unskilled in these matters anyway, without reference to the very best bio­ logical advice available.

It has been stated in defence of the project, that this small and beautiful lake is to be replaced by a large beautiful lake. This is a conscience salving lie. Pedder lies in a unique basin formed by the Sentinel range to the north, the to the south, and Mount Solitary to the east. It is awe inspiring to be in that basin in the late evening after rain has fallen. The setting sun casts its rays through gaps in the clouded sky and the sandy beach assumes the most beautifu I spectral shades against the background of the grey mountains. The effect is unbelievable, fantastic, spiritual: the sight once seen can never be forgotten.

The new enlarged Lake Pedder will never give such effects. The topography and geography of the surrounding countryside is uneven in so far that the new lake will be too long compared to the height of the mountains. It will be similar to the larger northern lakes such as Lake St Clair and Lake King William. These larger lakes (beautiful as they are) do not have the beauty of Pedder. Much of Pedder's appeal lies in the fact that its accessibility offers a challenge to the bushwalker. To arrive at Pedder is the reward for a walk well done.

Very soon then, unless miracles happen, Lake Pedder will disappear, despite the numerous protests in Australia and in the face of world opinion. Only the mountains will remain. Those who have been to Pedder, away from civilisation and its associated cares; who have sat on the beach at sunset and watched the kaleidoscope of colour on the still, shallow water will remember. Pedder will live in us. It is our responsibility to see that it lives in our children who will never see this fairy tale setting. It is our responsibility to see that Pedder lives from generation to generation so that the same tragedy is not allowed to occur elsewhere. Lake Pedder, as we know it, will live as a signpost to the monumental stupidity of a culture based on economic development and political expediency. In the final analysis in future years it will be shown that both Tasmania and Australia will be the poorer for the loss of Pedder.

36 Q) c ~ 0 '- lXI c ..c ...,0 .....0 0 ..c Q.

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37 OH WHAT A LOVELY WAY TO SPEND EASTER!

By Stuart Hodgson

Being the story of a trek across the New Guinea KOKODA TRAIL during Easter 1972.

BRIEF HISTORY War in the Pacific 1942-43

By late April 1942 the Japanese had captured all Northern approaches to New Guinea - Lae, Madang, Salamaua, and were poised for an attack on Port Moresby across the central Owen Stanley Ranges from the north coast.

The invading forces landed at the Anglican Mission Station at Gona, on the coast of Papua, and 120 miles north of Port Moresby. From Gona, a mission track ran inland to Kokoda in the northern foothills of the Owen Stanley Ranges.

From Kokoda, as the Japanese were well aware, a track led over the mountains to Port Moresby, which the mail carriers had been using since the turn of the century.

As the invasion got under way, several allied battalions were despatched across the mountains from the south to meet the enemy, but were faced with the problem of maintianing a long supply line over formidable terrain. The confrontation lasted for six months under appalling conditions, with territory being lost and gained by both sides before the Japanese were finally routed in January 1943, at lmita Ridge, barely 30 miles from Port Moresby.

During the campaign the Japanese lost 12,000 men, and the Australians, 5,700.

Now Read On!

Today, an all weather road links Kokoda to the northern coast, and a further road from Port Moresby extends to Owers Corner, 25 miles out, and follows for some distance the route of the original trail. The remaining fifty miles of track to Kokoda traverses the rugged Owen Stanley Ranges and was the venue for some of the most savage offensives of the campaign.

The trail has no rock-climbing sections, nor does it ascend to any great heights by New Guinea standards (highest point 6,700'). What do make it difficult, however, are the continual ascents and descents of up to 3,000' along extraordinarily steep and slippery mountain spurs, the dense undergrowth, turbulent river crossings and the irregularity of the ground underfoot.

Of the original twelve who expressed an interest in the venture, five eventually chartered a Norman Islander light aircraft out of Port Moresby to transport us to Kokoda. The flight took us about % hour as compared with the four days it took us to walk back. As we flew over the towering mountains and torrential rivers we had time to reflect on the sanity of the expedition we were about to undertake.

The Sub-District Officer met us at Kokoda and took us home for breakfast. Afterwards he showed us around the settlement, pointing out a Japanese mass grave, bullet holes in trees, old wartime fox-holes and a monument to the casualties from both sides.

We began the walk on Good Friday at 10.45 a.m. (sic) with a gentle ascent of 3,000 feet to the village of lsurava. The track led us through thick moss forest where 38 streams and waterfalls frequently crossed our path, and spread between occasional native garden clearings, with their characteristic banana palms and sketchy vegetable plots. We reached lsurava at about 4.00 p.m., were immediately welcomed by the villagers, and treated to a husk of sweet corn fresh from the fire. The vi !lagers were friendly but shy. It was here that we observed our first relic of wartime days. The grill over the fire had been made from the burnt-out frames of old Japanese rifles!

Our goal for the first day was the village of Aloia, a further one hour's walk away through drenching rain. We soon discovered it was preferable to dispense with a raincoat during a downpour, since condensation soon produced the same result with a raincoat as without one: it was always warm enough anyway. In due course we reached Aloia, and occupied the rest house which is always provided for visitors. We retired thankfully, secure in the knowledge that at least the easiest stretch of the walk was now completed!

The following day, bright and early and still raining, we set out, fortified with bananas from our hosts and made our way down to lora Creek, our first major crossing. Sometimes, after heavy rain some of the rivers are impassable, and we were a little concerned. Our fears were justified! The "creek" was a racing torrent kicking up waves and a foamy spray. The track vanished at the water's edge and reappeared on a small island in mid-stream. Cautiously, and with the aid of stout sticks we waded thigh deep across to the island. At this point, most of the fast moving water was being channeled around the island on the far side. So we still had this to overcome. A slender sapling sloped across from the island to the opposite bank, barely inches above the seething ferment below.

Gingerly, and one at a time we straddled the log and inched our way across its slippery surface, as watery hands plucked at our dangling legs in an effort to drag us into the maelstrom. Eventually and with great trepidation we all crossed safely to the other side, and were about to continue when a small group of natives appeared. Without a moment's hesitation they stepped out on to the log and nonchalantly ambled across barefoot as if it were a wide jungle path. We felt enhumbled.

The rest of the day became a gruelling ascent to Mt Bellamy at 6,700 feet, punctuated by Templeton's Crossing, where, thankfully there was a primitive bridge made of tree trunks lashed together with vines. From time to time on the way up to Mt Bellamy we could see villages perched precariously against adjacent ridges, secure from attack in times gone by, and enjoying superlative views. We pushed on towards the top, over rushing streams, and brushing past huge green ferns and kunai grass five feet high. It was after nightfall by the time we reached the summit and made camp at the rest house there. We could see the flickering fires from the villages in the valley far below, and the green-blue lights of the fireflies lent an air of fantasy to our surroundings.

Next morning we were up before the sparrows. It was Easter Sunday. No chocolate eggs I'm afraid, but as the sun came up, we watched the mist rise theatrically to reveal a broad, verdant valley sparkling from a million dew drops. The next three villages on our way were visible, betrayed by lazy spirals of smoke from their break­ fast fires. It was a scene of unsurpassed tranquility. Even the birds and crickets were silent at this hour.

We reached the first village by 11.00 a.m. and the entire population turned out to welcome us, having espied our approach from afar. We were engulfed with offerings: tomatoes, pineapple, sweet potato, bananas, sweet corn, sugar-cane, mangoes, and a welter of less identifiable but equally succulent fare. This was the village of Kagi.

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Even 1n flood lora Creek presents few problems to Papuans. 41 occupying prominent pos1t1ons. The entire village is invariably spotless, the bare earth being meticulously swept each day, and all rubbish carefully deposited in huge covered holes located outside the compound.

These days, most of the villages have their own airstrip, usually a rectangular grassy plain, perched on a mountaintop and often with an alarming gradient. The bush pilots who operate in these parts require a specially endorsed licence to fly under such hazardous conditions.

During our sojourn on the trail we frequently encountered local people en route to somewhere, often colourfully dressed, and it was a good opportunity to practise the little pidgin we had learnt. Papuans are very shy towards Europeans, but once you make the initial gesture they usually open up and can become quite exuberantly friendly!

We pushed on through the valley, sometimes out in the clear, other times swallowed up by the forest, dwarfed by towering trees, and in the dim half light that filtered through, stumbling over many prickly vines and shrubs that overhung the path. Leeches were a constant irritation.

The final two days were completed largely in the rain. Really, we had chosen a bad time to walk the trail, since the wet season was not yet over. But it was then or never ..... The walk from the village of Menari to Nauro was substantially level, and anything from ankle to waist deep in water; certainly ankle deep in mud!

On Monday we reached lmita Ridge, scene of the final rebuttal of the Japanese forces. The ridge was the steepest ascent of the entire walk, terminating in a narrow, defensible ridge. It was easy to appreciate how the Japanese could have been repulsed at this point, and was a fitting climax to the walk. All along the way we'd been finding relics. Army helmets mounted on sticks; bits of fuselage, weapon pits, remains of encampments, bullet holes in trees, coils of rotting telephone wire, etc.

From lmita Ridge it was an easy descent to the village of Uberi, followed by a leisurely stroll up to the road at Owers Corner. Walk completed.

In retrospect, a most interesting and rewarding trip. However, despite the recent attempt by several venerable clergymen I wouldn't recommend it as a pleasure cruise (one woman walker killed in 1968 and several other injuries on other oc­ casions), but for scenic value and historical and anthropological interest I'd rate it tops.

Total cost from Port Moresby including food was about $30.

-- 42 A SPECIAL VISIT TO LAMINGTON

By Michael Griffin

Challinor is the name of a centre for people who are mentally retarded. As such, it seems difficult to connect it with bushwalking, although at the time of writing three parties from Challinor have enjoyed a weekend in the Lamington National Park, with most people notching up quite a few miles in the two days.

We are in Queensland of course, although only just, for Lamington National Park ends at that part of the NSW border called the McPherson Range. It is rain forest country, and most of the park is luxuriant with jungle growths - fern gullies, entangled vines, fig trees, various gums, beeches, palm trees, the bright red of flame trees, orchids and thick cushions of mosses, lichens and fungi. At the northern end of the park stands Binna Burra Lodge, gloriously situated on a slight knoll, looking down into valleys and across to further mountains and the Gold Coast. Walking tracks radiate out from Binna Surra, some heading south towards the border and then running west towards O'Reilly's, the other lodge in the park, The Coomera River cuts into the park from the north and flanks Binna Surra on its west side. Nixon Creek valley lies to the east of the lodge, with its impressive spire of Egg Rock as a centrepiece. One of the tracks works its way around the southern extremity of Nixon Creek and then climbs up on its east side to look back across at Binna Surra from the northern edge of Shipstern range. There is a loop track, only about one and a half miles long, which connects with the Shipstern route near the lodge. This track heads down to Bellbird Lookout, a neat rock platform at the top of a steep drop, its trees superbly framing the Nixon Creek valley and once again spotlighting Egg Rock. One of the southern tracks eventually meanders eastward, to provide a route home from Shipstern. The two Shipstern tracks pass below and above one of the park's many spectacular cascades, the Ballanjui Falls, which drop in a series of long dives for several hundred feet. One more loop track begins near the lodge, this time on the west side, overlooking the Coomera River valley. Further south, this valley narrows into a spectacular gorge with several magnificent waterfalls, but here it is beginning to widen as it emerges from the confines of its rocky walls. The track, however, is more concerned with seeking out aboriginal caves, and one of these is nothing short of miraculous, actually an interconnecting group of small shelters brilliantly white in colour, formed under water over a million years ago from volcanic ash. Binna Burra Lodge is only a short distance from the White Caves, and beckons at the end of a walk with good food and accommodation. The Groom family, who manage the lodge are, like the O'Reilly's, inseparably connected with the history of the district. Both Arthur Groom and Bernard O'Reilly have written books about this area of South East Queensland, and in fact the famous Stinson wreck lies within the National Park. These days, unfortunately, it resembles a tangled clothes hoist more than a plane.

I work at Challinor Centre as a psychologist, and until recently had kept bush­ walking strictly apart from my work. Among the residents at Challinor are some relatively bright male and female adults who are housed (separately) in two small hostels. They are, by and large, those people who show some ability to eventually progress beyond Challinor, either to hostels in the community or to their own private accommodation. Over the last few months, many of them have in fact been "dis­ charged" (the official word) from the centre and are finally free to manage their own affairs.

Going back several months, though, we would find that these people were still in Challinor. Although some were ready to make the break, the outside world was still a relative mystery, and I began to wonder after a while what could be done to pro­ vide them with both a holiday and a profitable experience away from institutional life. It was at this point that bushwalking and psychology collided, and the first of three trips to Lamington was hatched. Binna Burra lodge was approached, and proved 43 Come Away With Y.H.A.

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44 happy and willing to accommodate us at a reasonable charge. The first weekend speedily arrived and found us setting out on Saturday morning for a walking holiday, thirteen residents and four staff in a microbus and a couple of cars. Our luggage was confined to a few bags, for we would be staying overnight at the lodge, mixing with the other guests.

Brian and Darryl proved to be good walkers and joined me on all trips that were attempted. Darryl is one of those people who tend to be regarded as hopelessly retarded, because he is extremely quiet and withdrawn. It comes as a shock to learn that he is not really retarded at all. The combination of a shy nature and a badly deprived background has created an image of retardation where none should exist. Darryl is subtle, with a marvellous, quiet sense of humour and a shy but endearing smile. He is fit and loves walking and is at home in quiet places. Unlike Brian, he has no fear of heights or exposure and is surefooted and nimble.

We began by tackling the Bellbird Lookout circuit as a prelude to lunch. Darryl was observant, noting the various trees and listening to the bird sounds. When we reached the edge of the range he just stood and looked out over the valley, very quietly. Later that day he bought himself a track map, and worked out where he had walked.

Brian, like Darryl, is in his late teens. He is thin and wears his hair in a long Beatie cut. His degree of retardation is only slight and he too possesses a good sense of humour. Brian was overjoyed at the prospect of the weekend, and lived every minute of it in appreciative good spirits. Even though he has a marked fear of heights, he was willing to overcome this and climaxed the weekend by being one of only a few people to stand at the top of Ballanjui Falls looking down to the rock and jungle far below.

Institutional life is full of deprivations, and the effect was most noticeable on the walks that we did. Brian was not alone in his fear of heights, and some were so petrified by a view of the distant valley that it was difficult to persuade them to continue. If you have spent most of your days in a centre for the mentally retarded, then life is a different world completely to the one that we know. Places like Laming­ ton are a revelation, something indescribably wonderful. Walking along a track is almost alien in its novelty and a weekend is hardly enough to begin learning all the new perceptions about trees and waterfalls, different food and small cabins, strange people and friendly smiles, the marvellous sense of something previously unknown now held dear. Life is suddently challenging, where decisions need to be made and initiative is required.

Irene is 20, although she appears younger. She has a pretty, girlish face, and is very giggly. In many ways she is yet a child, but is beginning the slow process of growing up. Irene has a low tolerance of frustration, which seems to be connected with her masked epileptic state in some way. She can be very manipulative and attention-seeking, and tried out these tactics for a while when the walk became tiring. It is to her credit, though, that the intrinsic interest of the trip overcame these tendencies, so that Irene gradually settled down to enjoy things and managed to contain her momentary frustrations when she tripped or got her feet wet. By the end of the weekend she had completely sloughed off her institution behaviour, joining in all activities enthusiastically.

We set out after lunch for the White Caves, a short four miles for the round trip. The track twists and turns through intermittent jungle and forest before merging at a burial cavern, first discovered by Romeo Lakey. The White Caves are further on, with a view over the Coomera in between.

45 LAM I NGTON NATIONAL PARK

.::t t G ..0 ..c u ,, Ql I I fj I I 10 I I I I I ' ' \ BINNA BURRA LODGE • \ \ \ White x{, /',.ii\ Bell Bird Look.out Caves ,' ' '.."' I ...... -~ ...... I' ...... ____ I - ...... J ---.... \ \ \ l "\ I t 1'1'4 I I / ,,,,., I \ ('\\ l.l•• I ' \ \ ,( ' I '-':) ' -, \\ ' ...... _ ) f\ ( ~v I } "' ' \ ' \ \~..._:, I '' \,_ Bcrllonjui { ' ' Falls ...... ' ...... , ' '--"\ ...... '\ ' \ ' I t-,\ ...._ I I 'I " / I / l .I_ _.- <. \ ) \ \ I ' ' ') ' )' "-.. O'R~IIly'!> ) via main bord~r LOCATION I track MAP (' (') \ ,J I \ I \ ~ O'Reilly's via Coomera Ri.,er

46 Doris and Michael stood hand in hand looking up at the cavern. Once in a while, mentally retarded people strike up a relatively permanent attachment, and these two seem to be a good illustration of this. Doris is in her late thirties, a fairly slight person who can be rather bossy, but is saved by the merry twinkle in her eye and a genuine fondness for other people. Her relationship with Michael, who is not yet twenty, is a remarkably sound one, and has benefited them both immeasurably. Michael is mature for his age, red-headed and small, with a flash of aggression behind his cheerful extroversion. Doris and Michael are mildly retarded people who manage surprisingly well in social and practical situations. Neither one can read or write, although Doris is slowly learning and was intent on spelling out the words on the National Park sign at the beginning of the walking tracks.

On the Sunday morning, Doris stood in silent contemplation standing by me on a small patch of grass looking down into the Coomera Gorge. Michael was a bit hesitant, but joined me also in time, and was more vocal about his enthusiasm. They both wanted to come back again and were still fit after completing nearly fifteen miles for the weekend.

It would be easy for me to recommend this National Park as a place to visit, but I would rather leave that recommendation to the people from Challinor, whom you have met briefly. If their enjoyment and enthusiasm were generously given, then it was surely in proportion to the wonder of Lamington.

RELIABLE TRANSPORT- Business or Pleasure GRONOW'S FURNITURE REMOVERS and STORERS

PICNIC VANS AVAILABLE HOLIDAYS AND WEEK-ENDS

287 INKERMAN STREET, ST. KILDA Tel.: 94-6464, 94-6465

47 There's different walking country, a new experience awaiting you in the FLINDERS RANGES South Australia's rugged and colourful outback mountains.

For an exhilarating walking holiday, travel by car or coach to the Flinders. Stay at places like Melrose, Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola, where you are surrounded by walking country ... through steep gorges, dry creek beds and over challenging mountain country- always with the magnificent scenery of the rhythmic and colourful ranges. For further information contact: South Australian Government Tourist Bureau, 8 Royal Arcade, MELBOURNE, Vic. 3000. Phone: 63 2760.

48 THE EUCALYPTUS DISTILLERS

By G. Errey

Following a recent visit to the whipstick area north of Bendigo, I became interes­ ted in the eucalyptus oil industry having seen two distillation plants or factories while on the trip. On investigation I discovered that crude eucalyptus oil was first dis­ tilled near Port Jackson in the infant colony of New South Wales and exported to England in 1788. Little is known of the subsequent years until 1852 when a Mel­ bourne pharmacist, Joseph Basista, aided by the botanist Baron Ferdinand von Mueller began producing oil from a still near the Dandenong Creek using leaves from Eucalyptus radiata which grew in the surrounding area. The name Basista is pre­ served today as the botanical name given to Gippsland grey box, Eucalyptus bosis­ toana. Basista brand eucalyptus is still sold, being marketed by Drug Houses of Australia.

Following the success of Joseph Basista, distillers in other states began producing oil using the leaves of E. cinerea in New South Wales, E. oleosa in South Australia and E. globulus and E. vernicosa in Tasmania. The industry grew and by 1900 the Aus­ tralian eucalyptus oil industry was able to supply the entire world market.

In the early days of the industry the peppermints were exploited. Generally grow­ ing in hilly country between 2,000 and 4,000 feet, the trees were felled by axe or saw, and the leaves and terminal branches stripped. Although the mallees do not yield oil in quantities equal to that of peppermints, they have in recent times been more widely used. Their low growing height, multi stem habit, and their occurrence on flat semi-arid land make it suited to mechanical harvesting using a form of forage harvester, although some trees are still harvested by hand using a sickle or machete.

Two types of stills are used. The older type consists of a steel tank between four and five feet square, the tank being filled with fresh leaves with water added. The lid is then tightly sealed and a fire is lit under the tank. As the water boils steam passes up through the leaves, extracts the oil from them and collects as a vapour in a long pipe fixed to the top of the tank. The pipe ·runs through a dam or a creek where the vapour in the pipe condenses and flows out at the other end into a container, the crude oil floating on the water where it is skimmed off and sent away for further refining. The type of stills in the whipstick are dug into the ground, some ten feet in diameter and fifteen feet deep, and lined with bricks. A winch is used to lift the heavy lid up from the vat. Steam is introduced into the bottom of the vat through a pipe from a horizontal boiler set in brickwork. The steam escapes in a vapour in the same way as the tank type still.

The distillation of eucalyptus oil may be carried out throughout the year and the same eucalyptus stands may be harvested following regrowth of the trees. Eucalyptus oil is used extensively in the manufacture of disinfectants, soaps, inhalants, germi­ cides and deodorants for hospitals and theatres, solvents and the production of menthol.

The eucalyptus oil industry has been declining steadily over recent years owing to the high cost of labour involved. Ironically it is now countries which imported various eucalypt species years ago which produce oil cheaper than we can in Australia, the home of the eucalypts. Such countries are Spain, Portugal, Chinese Peoples Republic, Iberia and South Africa, all places where labour costs are considerably lower. In fact, the tables are now turned, Australia imports certain eucalyptus oils from these countries.

Perhaps now with the decline of the industry, the eucalyptus distillers' domain will return to its former glory free from the axe. From a conservationist viewpoint let us hope so. 49 The picturesque Clinton River, between Glads House and Pompolona Huts, on the Milford Track. Milford, Hollyford Valley and Routeburn Tracks - New Zealand Discover a land of dramatic contrasts and beauty. Prices include accommodation at track huts.

Milford Track 6 days $71.00 Hollyford Valley 4 days $62.00 7 days $81.00 3 days $72.00 Routeburn 4 days $57.00 including scenic flight

For full information contact the New Zealand Government Tourist Bureau, 93 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne, Vic. 3000. Telephone 67 6621 50 BOOKS FOR BUSHWALKERS

..WALKING THE FLINDERS RANGE" by C. Warren Bonython. 231 pp. ill us. (32 plates), 8 maps. Rigby Limited (Adelaide). $5.95.

'Soon after my fiftieth birthday the idea suddenly crystallised in a phrase - "the Flinders from end to end!" ...... I would be the first to walk them all the way from Crystal Brook to Mt Hopeless.' Thus Warren Bonython conceived a bush­ walking project which he accomplished in nine stages between May 1967 and November 1968. This book is the result.

According to a table in one of the appendices the distance in 'crow-miles' is 291 miles, although the route actually walked was 632 miles (only 203 without a load­ i.e. on side trips) on a total of 74 walking days. Total climbing was 86,000 feet. Bonython had various companions on different stages of the walk, including on three stages John Bechervaise, who was first to climb in southwest Tasmania.

"Any fool may write a most valuable book by chance", said the poet Gray of Boswell's 'Account of Corsica', "if he will only tell us what he heard and saw with veracity". "But, of course, he begs the question" says Spalding. "To tell what one heard and saw 'with veracity' is not easy, nor is it of common occurrence". To say, then, that Bonython's style is that of fairly straightforward narrative ·is to say that the book is skilfully written, makes entertaining reading, and would convey much of the experience of bushwalking to non-participants. Perhaps this is the ultimate test: I would be willing to bet that the larger proportion of bushwalking literature is so earnest and dull that it is at least necessary to be a bushwalker and to have been to the place described oneself in order to struggle through it at all.

Interspersed through the narrative are short accounts of the geology of the section being covered, anecdotes from its local history (Darwin was not the only 19th century scientist to do some bushwalking in Australia - Bonython tells us that the Brown of Brownian motion fame also gave his name to Mt Brown behind Port Augusta as a member of Flinders' crew), and other digressions of general interest - for example, the book happens to have fallen open at p 183 where Bonython is discussing the design of packs, and after considering various claimants to the honour of inventing the packframe eventually awards the decision to an oriental gentleman named Hsuan-Tsang who died in AD664! Only occasionally are there lapses into the peculiar self-consciousness of the Adelaide Establishment to mar an otherwise eminently readable story.

The book is profusely illustrated with colour photographs taken by the author en route. Most of these are very good. Even if they had not been, it would have been preferable to have the author's own snaps rather than the showy and technically correct efforts of some expensively-equipped professional who could have been driven within a mile or so of the feature to be photographed on just the right day. The only irritation is no fault of the author, but of the printer, the photographs could have been closely synchronised with the narrative, rather than being a fairly constant thirty pages or so ahead of it.

A great deal is packed into the four appendices, and route-planners and peak­ baggers will no doubt take much interest in a rather elaborate formula of the Nai­ smith rule type which Bonython develops. The text claims an astonishing "limiting" (i.e. no-load, zero terrain factor) climbing rate of 4000 ft per hour! Upon checking the formula itself this turns out to be a much more reasonable 1000 ft in 0.4 hours, so one can only conclude, since ICI chemical plants (Bonython is an ICI chemical 51 engineer) are not notoriously explosive, that a somewhat innumerate editor has interfered with the text. Even 2500 ft per hour is pretty good going, no matter which side of fifty you happen to be. In the best chemical traditions a liberal "fudge factor" is included which allows you to make excuses for taking up to four times as long as you originally thought you would. We all know what scrub can be like!

Graham Wills-Johnson

MOUNTAIN MUSTER

The Alpine track has been completed in the sections between Mt Skene and Mt Speculation and also between Mt Bogong and Salt Petre Creek. A few sign posts have yet to be erected. Some track clearing has also been carried out in the region of the twins.

In the summer of 1971/2 the old logging road from Cobbler Plateau (which formerly terminated below Mt Speculation) was continued to the Catherine Saddle, between Mt Despair and Mt Speculation. At the saddle one branch drops to the head of the Catherine River for access to stands of Alpine Ash. Logging in this area has largely been completed and a programme of reafforestation is under way. On the Wonnangatta side another branch drops about 200 vertical feet from the saddle and then sidles around to the north-east under Mt Despair, with the object of reaching stands of Alpine Ash in the head of the Wonnangatta River. The new road cuts the Alpine track a couple of times. The Despair-Razor-Viking area is one of the few remaining wilderness areas in Victoria and is the subject of deputations and sub­ missions to Government departments over the action of the logging company concerned. This new road is especially controversial because of the Land Conser­ vation Act which "froze" all public land (including reserved forest) from further development (as opposed to current operations) until the area was investigated by the land Conservation Council.

The Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs is collecting detailed information on all huts in walking areas throughout Victoria. The list of huts of which this informa­ tion is available is quite short at the moment. They would be pleased to have information on size, condition, site etc. on most huts in the following areas: The Main Divide; The Snowy Plains-Moroka area; Baw Baw Plateau; Mt Usefui­ Aberfeldy-Matlock Area; Cathedral range- Area; Eildon-Mt Torbeck Area; Warburton-Healesville-Powelltown Area; Mt Cole Forest; and the Southern Snowy Mountains-Far Eastern Victoria.

The Mt Hotham Alpine Resort Act 1972 is of some interest to bushwalkers. The act establishes a Management Committee who are to be responsible for the better management of the Mt Hotham Alpine Resort Area as defined in the act. The Committee MUST AT ALL TIMES BE CONCERNED TO PRESERVE THE ENVIRONMENT and must pay special attention to (a) preservation of the natural beauty (b) conservation of flora and fauna (c) prevention and control of pollution and (d) prevention and mitigation of soil erosion. With these in mind the area may be then developed for tourist potential. The Mt Feathertop area is defined as a protected forest within the meaning of the Forest Act 1958. However the composi­ tion of the Committee belies the intention of the act. Some development is 52 certainly planned in the area. The Committee does not contain one conservationist or one representative of bushwalking organisations but almost completely consists of commercial and ski interests.

The Forestry Commission road into the upper reaches of the Carey Valley has now been extended northward to a point east of the Howitt Plains airfield but several hundred feet down the cliffline. It has been constructed to obtain Woolybut stands at the head of Mt Lookout Creek and in so doing has given very easy access to the 400 ft high Mt Lookout Creek falls.

The Mt Tamboritha-Long Spur-Crinoline ridge has now been marked for much of its length and track clearing is expected to be completed shortly by the Mel­ bourne Bushwalkers. The track commences at Tamboritha Saddle.

The Forestry Commission has extensive plans for walking tracks in the Grampians and has already completed tracks from ( 1) Rocklyn Guest House to Devils Gap and Bellfield Peak (replacing the old Hotel Bellfield track.); (2) Troopers Gap to Mt Difficult; (3) Troopers Gap to Pohlness Track due west of Troopers Gap; (4) Grid ref. 360405 south of Mt Stapylton to 360465 (to be extended to Mt Stapylton and Flat Rock area); (5) From Dunkeld-Mirranatwa Rd to Mt Sturgeon and also (6) From Dunkeld-Mirranatwa Rd to Mt Abrupt. The tracks are well formed and graded and marked in many places.

Zeta Creek near Macalister Springs is being logged in its upper reaches and a road has been built down the spur into the Creek valley. It provides yet another route to the Wonnangatta Valley along the flat and untouched Zeta Creek. The logging road leaves the Howitt Plains road 1 Ya miles north of Howitt Hut . •

HUTS IN THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS

Walkers in the back country of the Kosciusko National Park will be familiar with some of the picturesque and useful huts scattered throughout the Park. Many of these are the legacy of gold fossickers and cattlemen long since gone from the region and the harsh climate is taking its toll on wood and iron. There are approxi­ mately ninety huts in the Park and twenty-six are badly in need of repair.

The Kosciusko Huts Association was formed by concerned walkers, skiers and fishermen, with the blessing of the National Parks and Wildlife Service which manages the Park, to do something about the problem before many of the huts simply collapsed. Not a lot of maintenance has been done as yet as finance and manpower is a problem. You can help by joining the Association. The subscription is $2 annually and the Treasurer is John Pinkerton, P.O. Box 415, Canberra City 2601. You can also help by donating a small overnight fee when you use the huts. Members receive information on hut conditions and free use of huts.

A number of huts have caretaker groups looking after them and general repairs have been carried out at the following huts: Rawsons, Valentine, Horse Camp, O'Keefe's. Albina Lodge, once club owned, has been bought by the National Parks and Wildlife Service and is now therefore public property. 53 THE HEVSEN TRAIL

Long distance route in South Australia

A long distance combined walking and bridle track, to be known as the Heysen Trail, is planned for South Australia. Of a distance of about 500 miles it will stretch from Cape. Jervis, on the south-eastern corner of St Vincent Gulf to as far north as Mount Hopeless, which is beginning to get into Burke and Wills type of country. One attractive aim of the project is for the route to link up as many national parks as possible, and another is to keep to high ground to provide plenty of extensive views.

The route, starting from the south, takes off eastwards along the Fleurieu Penin­ sula, then swings northwards along the Mount Lofty Ranges east of Adelaide, and also along the Camel's Hump and Mount Gregory Ranges. The Flinders Ranges are joined at The Bluff, with halfway point somewhere near Mount Brown (3166 ft) which is about 10 miles due east of Port Augusta. The route continues north-east to Wilpena Pound, reaching a high point at St Marys Peak (3822 ft) and taking in more peaks along the North Flinders Ranges as far as Mount Hopeless at their northern­ most extremity.

The South Australian State Planning Authority has control of the project and is responsible for the securing of the trail which entails buying land, arranging rights-of­ way and other agreements with lease-holders and co-operating with local councils etc. Track signs and markers are to be kept to a minimum so as to help preserve the naturalness and rural character of the zone. The suggestion has also been made that the trail could become the trunk route for a whole network of other scenic routes.

Further information can be obtained by applying to the S.A. State Planning Authority.

THE HEYSEN TRAIL

54 WALKS SECTION • FIVE DAY WALK

MITTA MITTA TERRITORY

SASSAFRAS GAP- DARTMOUTH- GRANITE FLAT- MT BOGONG- FALLS CREEK

Transport - Private to Sassafras Gap and from Falls Creek or Bogong or Mt Beauty for return.

Distance- 70 miles.

First Day. Leave Sassafras Gap on the Omeo-Corryong road (Ref. 689487 Benambra 1 :100,000) heading westward along the Eustace Gap track. (If camping at Sassafras Gap there is water available about 600 yards to the east of the gap along the jeep track). There is a small hut just off the road about a mile from the gap. About two miles from the start the required track to Dartmouth, well marked, joins from the right (Ref. 682473 Benambra). This track is followed for the whole day and as it follows the ridge right through to Dartmouth no water is to be found. Though the track follows the ridge it is far from level and many ups and downs are encountered before the long steep drop into Dartmouth (Ref. 520520). There are many good camp­ sites by the Dart and Mitta Mitta rivers which should cater for all tastes.

Second Day. A crossing of the mighty Mitta Mitta is the first obstacle of the day but this is reasonably easy at a stock crossing about one mile downstream from the junction of the two rivers. Follow the road westerly for about one mile looking for the blazed tree on the left hand side (Ref. 510518). A track (not very clear) goes down to the river and a small sandy beach. The crossing is to a similar beach diago­ nally across the river. This crossing which is just west of a small flat island is rough underfoot but is not deep even with the river in flood. Even so much care is required as the current is strong. Once across it is fairly easy to follow the cattle track along the river at the mouth of Eight Mile Creek. Thick ti-tree scrub at the edge of the flats causes some hazard but this is soon overcome. Keeping to the edge of the flat, a sign post is passed indicating the way to Granite Flat. Cross Eight Mile Creek at the ford and follow the track round and over the hill to similar flats at the mouth of Six Mile Creek. After this crossing there is no more water for the day. The climb over to Granite flat is long and very steep but the jeep track is good. Good camp sites are available by Snowy Creek at Granite Flat.

Third Day. A two mile trek down the main Omeo Highway to the south starts the third day. The jeep track to Mt Bogong starts at the saw mill. It is used as the logging track for the mill and is in very good condition. It is a long slog up to Howman's Hollow with only one opportunity for water. The old hut at the hollow still stands but is not in very good condition. Right alongside is a new hut which was built in the summer of 1970 and is very comfortable and well equipped. Water is available if one follows the small track situated directly opposite the hut for about fifty yards. The day's climb is not very exciting, but good views are to be had from various points along the way until the majestic Mt Bogong comes into view.

Fourth Day. The track from Howman's Hollow is clear and fairly easy taking only two hours to reach the Summit Hut. The track starts immediately behind the hut and after about 100 yards the right fork is taken. A mile further and the track 55 FOR THE HOLIDAY OF ALIFETIME If you'd like to change a package holiday- a your holiday routine, personally escorted we'll make sure you holiday- or a tailor­ get the holiday of made holiday. See your your lifetime. No Travel Agent, Tourist matter where you Bureau or any office of want to go, or what Ansett Airlines. you want to do- on

ANSETT AIRLINES OF AUSTRALIA a million holiday ideas on••• swings to the right and on to Trapper's Creek Gap. At this point the walking track to the summit goes straight ahead and the gradient becomes steeper. Although this track is narrow it is clear and easy to follow to the edge of the tree line. Here a track to the right leads to the Eskdale Spur. By proceeding straight up Granite Flat'Spur the Eskdale Spur is eventually reached and the snow poles followed to the summit. The summit may be reached from Howman's Hollow by mid morning.

If return transport is in Mt Beauty then a variety of ways are available. To the north via Staircase Spur, to the west via Moncrief Gap, or to the south over Quartz Knob, camping at Big River and then going down Cranky Charlie Track to Mt Beauty. With good weather it is worthwhile spending the day on the summit and spending the night at Cleve Cole Memorial Hut or descending over Quartz Knob to Bogong Creek Saddle and down to Big River to camp.

Fifth Day. Leaving Cleve Cole Hut the descent down T-spur is steep and difficult in places. Big River is crossed by a log but even in wet weather this is not difficult The climb up Duane Spur to Ropers Hut again is steep but the hut is usually reached by midday. The alternative climb is over Quartz Knob after a camp at Big River below Bogong Creek Saddle. This is long but very much less arduous than Duane Spur.

After a well earned lunch at Ropers Hut it's on again over the High Plains with their own characteristic beauty. If return transport is in Bogong Village then the well marked track to the right over Spion Kopje drops down into the valley one mile above the village otherwise it's on to the south either following the jeep track or the snow poles over Mt Nelse North and Mt Nelse. Keeping to the right both ways, which run parallel, descend into Pretty Valley and thus to Falls Creek.

Thus ends a good walk - but beware. Even in midsummer it can snow in these alpine regions and proper equipment must be carried at all times.

Notes compiled Christmas 1971 K.G.M.

Maps: Benambra 1:100,000 Dept. of National Mapping Tawonga 1 :63,360 Forestry Commission Mt Bogong Southern and Western Approaches 1 :63,360 Algona Guides

The following volumes of WALK are still available: 1951, 1952, 1965, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972. Copies may be obtained by contacting the Advertising Manager, c/- Box 1751 0, G.P.O., Melbourne 3001.

57 FOUR DAY WALKS

FEATHERTOP THE HARD WAY

MT FEATHERTOP - BOGONG HIGH PLAINS- MT LOCH- MT HOTHAM­ HARRIETVILLE

Standard: Medium Hard. Distance: 41 miles

The following four day walk takes in some of Victoria's highest mountains and offers outstanding views equalled in few other parts of the state. The ideal time to undertake it would be in the summer or autumn months as much of this country is snow covered in winter and early spring. A word of warning should be added here to anyone venturing into this region for the first time. Dense fog and sudden storms can make navigation extremely difficult at any time of the year and therefore it is most advisable to have adequate equipment and clothing.

First Day. Ovens River to Blair's Hut (9 miles) The walk is commenced at the start of the North West Spur track three miles north of Harrietville where Stony Creek flows into the Ovens River. The spot is marked by a blue survey mark on a tree near the roadside. The river can be easily crossed here by means of an old vehicular bridge. From the bridge head across Keating's farm into the valley of Stony Creek where the track becomes well defined. After 1% miles the track crosses Stony Creek at the foot of the North West Spur and then begins its steep 2 mile ascent to the M.U.M.C. hut at the top. From the hut follow the track ~ of a mile towards Federation hut and then climb off to the .left towards the summit of Mt Feathertop. The route is obvious.

From the summit walk along the ridge to the north peak where the descent along the east ridge to the West Kiewa River begins. The ridge below the tree line is very scrubby and steep and care should be taken to keep on an easterly bearing, other­ wise it is possible to end up in the valley of Feathertop Creek. The logging road at the bottom of the valley is followed two miles south of Blair's hut which is on the bank of the river. The hut is in good condition and there are excellent campsites around it.

Second Day. Blair's Hut to Tawonga Hut (4 miles- Side trip 6 miles) From the river at Blair's hut there is a cattle track which heads in a south­ easterly direction away from the hut. The track crosses a small creek and becomes a logging track. About three hundred yards further on this track joins a logging road coming from the West Kiewa River. Stay on this road until a point just before it swings to the left and back towards the creek that was crossed earlier. At this point there is a track branching to the right. This is followed to a logging ramp. Continue for about two hundred yards past the ramp and then start heading to the left along a bulldozed track towards the creek. There is a maze of logging roads and tracks in this area and the track to the High Plains may be difficult to find. The track crosses the creek and shortly after becomes a cattle pad which is easily followed up the spur, past Weston's hut and onto the Bogong High Plains. (General direction north east). From here, Tawonga huts can be reached by following the snow pole line. There are good campsites approximately two hundred yards from the huts where the jeep track crosses the creek.

From Blair's hut to Tawonga hut takes about three hours. This leaves the after­ noon free for a side trip. A three mile jaunt (6 miles return) to Mt Fainter South via the Niggerheads - returning along the jeep track - is highly recommended. The easiest way to climb the Niggerheads is to follow the ridge which starts southwest 58 MT. FEATHERTOP &MT. FAINTER STH.

,,11,, _,,11/; ,\\/;/ /,, ...... ,"'''' /1111''

SCALE 0 2 3

MILE5

of the huts until a fairly well defined cattle pad, which leads to the summit, is reached. The track from the summit to Fainter South is quite distinct. It meets the jeep track from Tawonga huts after about a mile in a south-easterly direction. Mt Fainter South provides a magnificent panorama of Mt Feathertop, the West Kiewa valley and the surrounding Bogong High Plains. Return to Tawonga huts by following the jeep track.

Third Day. Tawonga Huts to Mt Hotham (via Red Robin Mine 12 miles) Half a mile south of the huts the jeep track swings east to Pretty Valley. Leave the track here and head southwards across towards Mt Jim. The snowpole line is rejoined about ~ mile due east of Mt Jim. In poor visibility the snow pole line would have to be followed from the jeep track via Mt Jim Junction. Follow the snow poles from Mt Jim for about a mile southwards until a junction is reached (pole 193). One branch goes in a south-westerly direction to Cobungra Gap. The other continues south to Young's hut. Fo.llow the Cobungra Gap snow pole line for a quarter of a mile to a stockyard. There is a good track on the other side of the yard. Follow this to the Gap, then turn right and stay on the track. This follows the West Kiewa Valley for one mile and ultimately arrives at some abandoned mining works. Here the Mt Loch jeep track is met and followed. After climbing steadily for 1% miles the Red Robin Gold Mine is reached. This is well worth inspecting and at the time of writing, was being worked. From the mine follow the jeep track to the summit of Mt Loch and extensive views of Mt Feathertop, the Razorback and the High Plains. 59 To reach Mt Hotham (about 2 miles away) just follow the jeep track. There is a good campsite on the Diamantina River so follow the snow poles from Hotham to the Diamantina hut and then drop a few hundred feet down a steep slope to the river which at this point is just a very small creek.

Fourth Day. Mt Hotham to Harrietville (Via Razorback- 10 miles) The route across the Razorback is both well known and obvious, with spectacular views of the distant rolling ranges and the rugged Buffalo plateau from the western side of the ridge. Stay on the track as it passes the Federation hut just below little Feathertop and then starts its descent along Bungalow Spur. One mile past the Federation hut the Bungalow hut is passed and the well graded track continues down to Harrietville.

Notes compiled May 1972 A. Stirkul

EASTER ON THE ROCKY RANGE

Transport: Car transport to Omeo Creek on the Black Mountain-Benambra Road, about 4 miles past Rockbank Station and 1 mile north west of Black Mountain Station. Omeo Creek is reached not long after crossing Little River (about 300 yards) Junction situated about 2 miles southeast of 1st Emu Flat. Return car transport from the Little River Huts seven miles east of Wulgulmerang on the Deddick Road,

Features: Superb views from the spectacular scarp outcrops of the Rocky Range and Wulgulmerang Plateau above Stradbroke Chasm, Little River and Wheeler Creek Gorges. Rocky Range Wildlife Reserve, a 10,000 acre park to ensure protection and preservation of the rare and beautiful Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby, once very numerous throughout this region.

Best Season: The best Easter walk in Victoria. Providing the weather is fine, Novem­ ber is also very good.

Availability of water: Owing to the somewhat dry nature of the rocky terrain, the availability of water close to the route is sometimes limited. Water is available at: Little River-Omeo Creek, Carsons Creek, Stradbroke Creek head, Little River - Black Mountain, Little River Huts and at small creeks crossing Deddick Road near Little River Gorge Lookout.

Leave the starting point at Omeo Creek, follow the jeep track south-eastwards in the direction of Rockbank Station. Where the track reaches Carsons Creek ( 1% miles) turn left and follow the creek valley northwards past Carsons Creek Falls (2~ miles). Continue northwards for a further mile to a creek junction southwest of Mt Strad­ broke (3~ miles). Camp site near this point.

Leave packs at this spot, follow tiny creek northwards into a Rocky Range saddle northwest of Stradbroke, turn right and follow the range to the summit of Strad­ broke's red-brown dome. 4,300 feet. Magnificent views out to knobby old Cobberas and over all the Suggan-Buggan - Snowy border country. 60 Follow the range to the head of Stradbroke Creek and Stradbroke Chasm. Enter the defile at a small waterfall by keeping to the south bank. Deep and very narrow. (1 ,000 feet) this ravine through the Rocky Range has a thick floor of forest rubbish, below which Stradbroke Creek may be heard cascading strongly into Suggan valley. A magnificent vertical walled chasm. Return to camp. (8% miles for the day)

Second Day. Return east to Rocky Range and follow the scarp S.S.E. past Mt Hamilton to Hamilton Gap where the Snowy River Road passes through the range. Many good views (4* miles). Turn right and follow the road to Little River at Black Mountain Station (5Y2 miles). Collect water at the river and return to Hamiltons Gap. (6% miles). Turn right on to the Rocky Range Track and follow southeast along the Rocky Range, with very good views of Suggan Buggan Valley off to the north and north-east, and Wallaby Rocks just to the norht. After about 1 Yz miles look for a grassy range-top camp site with tree-framed views of the beautiful honey coloured flanks of Hanging Rock, habitat of the shy Brush-Tailed Rock Wallaby. (8 miles for the day).

Third Day. Continue on another half mile to a track junction, left hand World End Spur Track, right hand Rocky Range Track. Turn left and in another half mile reach the turnoff to Hanging Rock, turn left and follow this jeep track to its end. Continue along a faint track along crest of the rocky ridge and %mile from the junction arrive at the ridgetop near Hanging Rock. Clamber along the rocky spine to the highest point. The actual top of Hanging Rock is detached from the ridge and separated by a deep cleft. Climb down into the cleft along left side of the ridge then up on to summit. From here there are magnificent views of The Cobberas, Suggan Buggan country and Ballantynes Pimples. Near here, look for evidence of the presence of rock wallabies; you will probably see plenty of signs and if you are lucky you will see one or two of these rare and shy marsupials. Return to the World End Spur Track. (2% miles) Turn left and follow World End Spur steeply downhill, then up and down over steep bumps along the spur to the crest of a high knob overlooking the Toongin­ booka River (also known as Suggan Buggan River) and World End Creek. There are superb views through tree-framed windows on this rocky spur. Return to the Rocky Range Track (4* miles) turn left and walk southeast along the range.

In a short distance look for a rocky viewpoint out through trees to the left, a very good view of the World End Creek valley. Continue southeast with occasional views out through trees to the left and after 1 Y2 miles from World End Spur junction reach the Milky Creek Track on the right. Continue straight ahead and in a further quarter mile (6Y2 miles) in the next range saddle look for an indistinct jeep track leaving on the left. Follow this track up through thick scrub to the scarp edge. By moving about the rocky outcrop very good views can be obtained of all the border country, The Cobberas, Pilot, Range and even as far out as Mt Kosciusko.

Return to the Rocky Range Track and continue easterly. In a further % mile another track junction is reached, follow the left (Lookout) track and climbing to the ridge top. Look out for vantage points to the right of the track. From the top of rocky outcrops amid thick timber there are occasional good views of the depths of Wheeler Creek Gorge between high walls of salmon-red rhyodacite; some magnificent sights of a little known but very colourful ravine. Return to the track and follow it until it peters out on a high bump, continue along a faint track in the same general direction (easterly) until the Snowy River four miles north of McKillops Bridge can be seen a couple of miles distant and 3,000 feet below. A good view of Snowy River Valley from an open spot amid thick scrub. Return to Milky Creek Track (9Yz miles) turn left and follow this track southwest down to the Deddick Road just east of Little River. Turn right across Little River bridge. Camp near the huts. For the day (11 Y2 miles for the day).

61 Fourth Day. Follow the track on west side of river to Little River Falls, a very good waterfall. % mile return. Little River Huts is a most suitable base for visits to various parts of the Little River Gorge country. Arrange for transport to be situated at the huts. Follow Deddick Road one mile southeast, look for jeep track leaving on right, follow this track southwards dropping slowly at first then steeply to a flat rocky promontory at the northern rim of Little River Gorge. (Portals Lookout). This is a lookout point at the upstream end of the magnificent Little River Gorge and affords superb views in all directions; in particular downstream along the mighty gorge cut through the Snowy River Volcanics where the Little River loses 2,000 feet in elevation in a distance of 3 miles. Return to the Deddick Road. (1% miles).

One mile further east along the Deddick Road turn right and follow a road to a turntable a half mile distant. Walk a further 200 yards to the top of the Devils Staircase. Nearby, from the Little River Gorge Lookout there is a superb view of the gorge and the Wulgulmerang Creek Falls, 800 feet high.

Return to the Deddick Road and continue south-east towards Langhams Bluff. Look for the old road to the left, climb easterly to Rocky Range Track junction, turn left and follow the track steeply uphill to Black Mountain. In a grassy saddle ~ mile before the summit leave the track and walk east through medium scrub to rocky outcrops high above the Snowy River Valley. Some good views can be obtained by moving around to various outcrops. Return to the Deddick Road, turn left and 100-150 yards before reaching Langhams Bluff look for a spur to the right which plunges steeply then flattens out, continue to the right down a narrow razorback spur, then up on to a rough lava pinnacle. From this and other nearby rocky pinnacles there are excellent views of The Little River Gorge, 1500-2000 feet deep. Dense thickets of Tingiringi Gum cover some of the lava rock piles making the going difficult over many gorge-side lookouts. Return to the Deddick Road (7 miles for the day). The total distance walked is approximately 35 miles.

The splendid colours of the Suggan Buggan Valley are blended from Candlebarks, the pale barks of White Box and the dark blue-green of Murray Pines.

Map References:- Jacob's River 1/100000 Murrindal 1/100000 (when available) • MAPPING

The following maps have been published during the year Alexandra and Heathcote (RASC 1/1 00,000) ...... Reprint Otways ( FCV 1/126,000)...... Reprint & updated Gunbower Island (FCV 1/63,000) ...... The Grampians (FCV 1/189,000) ...... Reprint & updated Berrigan •. Scale 1:100,000 NSW/VIC Buraja ...... Scale 1:100,000 NSW/VIC Walbundrie Scale 1:100,000 NSW/VIC Warburton Scale 1 :250,000 (2nd Edition)

62 TWO DAY WALKS

THE UPPER REACHES OF THE DARGO

The Mt Hotham Alpine Reserve is well known to most walkers and skiers. It is an extremely interesting area, is one of the highest points in Victoria, and has easy access by means of the . Such walks as the Razorback Ridge to Mt Feathertop and its associated spurs offer really first class Australian Alpine scenery, and most bushwalkers go to these ridges and spurs. Skiers of course usually stay fairly close to the summit of Mt Hotham with the exception of a small number of cross country skiers.

However one area near Mt Hotham seems to have been overlooked by walkers. It is the Precipice Plain - Mayford - Mt Tabletop circuit. It was recently programmed by our own Melbourne Bushwalkers club and turned out to be an excellent two day walk. The following description should assist anyone wishing to follow the club's route.

Eight miles east of Mt Hotham summit is Dinner Plain beside the Alpine Way. It has a hut and a Country Roads Board shed on the north side of the road and extensive alpine grasslands opposite. This is an ideal place to commence the walk. First head through a dilapidated gate on the south side of the road one hundred yards west of the hut, walk due south for a little under a quarter of a mile following the fenceline. This spot would make a good campsite if necessary. Water is readily available and there is plenty of good snowgum firewood. Next continue to follow the fenceline south-east for one mile along an old fourwheel drive track, then south east for a further three quarters of a mile sti II following the fenceline. At one stage you will have passed through a second gate in a small saddle. At the point where the fence leaves the jeep track and continues due east the pastures give way to snowgums and extremely good alpine timber walking. Remain on the jeeptrack which at times is a little hard to follow and eventually you will come to a natural clearing and a pleasant lookout at the edge of a cliffline. This is the start of Precipice Plain. The view is of Mt Tabletop three miles to the west across the Tabletop creek valley. At this lookout you are about two and three quarter miles from the start of the walk and as such it is a good spot for a morning tea break.

Precipice Plain is about three quarters of a mile long and up to a third of a mile wide. At its southern edge is a small waterfall. Consequently, after morning tea it is best to leisurely walk south south east across the plain to the falls for the view and then for lunch. The falls are easily found as they are on the creek which drains the majority of the plain, and when crossing the plain you need only keep to the lowest point. After lunch walk due west to the south west corner of the plain where an old fence corner will be seen. From here a four wheel drive track leads through a gate, downhill, and swings south west then south and continues along the Dividing Range for many miles. However at a point two and one half miles from the south west corner of Precipice Plain there is a T shaped junction. On a tree on the north west corner is a carved "M" and an arrow. It indicates the Mayford spur track. Here you are six miles south south east of the start of the walk and about to leave the Dividing Range having been on it all the way so far.

The Mayford spur section involves walking west until you meet the Dargo River. Firstly you walk three quarters of a mile along a good four wheel drive track which surprisingly remains fairly level then suddenly deteriorates and "dives" for a mile. In the process you receive good views of the Mayford clearing to your right. The clearing is your campsite for the night and provides everything a walker could wish for in camping, including swimming and blackberrying in season. It is about three 63 BUSHGEAR PTY.LTD.

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64 quarters of a mile long and is a real lost valley. It once used to contain a small gold mining town called Mayford and a few relics remain. There are rabbits, fruit, fish, excellent firewood, and plenty of grassy campsites. One could almost live off the land.

Bright and early next morning walk north west to the junction of Precipice Creek and the Dargo River, then cross the river, (you'll get wet feet) and climb northwest steeply up the spur. There is no track. The spur climbs up for one and a half miles then joins a north-south spur which continues up a further one and a half miles to the summit of Mt Tabletop. The climb is about 3000 feet for the morning and whilst it is naturally tiring the light scrub soon gives way to alpine grassland and snowgums. Lunch without water will be overdue by the time you reach the summit. There you can dangle your legs over the cliffs and look at the route of the previous day's walk. The Cobberas and most other easterly peaks can be seen while you dine. The morning walk takes about four and a half hours.

The afternoon walk is generally northwards and remains on the crest of a distinct ridge. It is snowgum country and is quite straight forward for the first one and one half miles, then thick scrub and a steep climb are encountered. It is very easy to get off the defined cattle pad thus making the last half mile of the walk quite difficult. One should head north north west to a saddle on the top of the Dividing Range where you will find a sign beside the Alpine Way indicating Mt Tabletop.

The first day's walk is about eight miles and of an easy standard, the second day is only five and one half miles but of medium hard standard. People using the Forests Commission of Victoria map scale 1" = 1 mile Darga sheet should be aware that the Mayford spur is not where the map indicates. It is two spurs further south. Tabletop Creek joins with Precipice Creek * mile due north of its junction with the Darga River.

Compiled March 1972 T.T.T.

POLEY RANGE COUNTRY

Distance: 19.5 miles

Transport: Private, to starting point on the Acheron River, two miles north of Acheron Gap. 754557 on Juliet map. Finishing point, Steavenson Falls, 781712 on McMahons Creek map.

Best Season: January, Spring on the high Divide when Christmas Bush, F ireweed and Wild Violets are in bloom and the grass is deep and lush. November, when the wild­ flowers flourish furhter north, or early September when the last of the snows lie a few inches deep on the range-top.

Features: Enjoyable walking along forest access tracks through glorious forest on the high ridges of the Dividing Range. Although in some places tracks are steep and stony in most sections the going is easy and pleasant along wheel tracks through well­ grassed bushland.

Leave the starting point and walk east along a jeep track on the southern bank of Acheron River. After about a quarter mile cross to the north side of river valley. In 200 yards avoid a road leaving steeply uphill to the left, then shortly after avoid a track on the right downhill to the river. Climb northeast, then east along rhe valley of the upper Acheron through glorious Mountain Ash forest. About 200 yards before reaching Feiglin's Gap look for a small clear creek on the left, the last water close to 65 the ridge track before the head of Wilkes Creek, 11% miles distant. Feiglin's Gap 774550 on McMahons Creek map 1 Y:! miles. There is a magnificent forest of huge Mountain Ash and groves of beautiful beeches on the way up from Feiglin's Gap to the massive trees on the flat top of the range, at 773558 McMahons Creek map (2 miles). One huge specimen in particular, measures 43'10" girth at four feet above ground.

From this point northwards Woollybutts (Alpine Ash) take over from White Mountain Ash. There are very fine specimens of tall Woollybutts on the ridge top from here to 773573 (McMahons Creek map) and from here the grade steepens and the track becomes stonier. (3Y:! miles).

Continue north along the Dividing Range and in a further 1% miles reach the lush green meadow at the flat top of Mt Ritchie 4,100 feet, at a track junction 766595 (McMahons Creek map), turn left and follow track down along firebreak. About 200-300 yards look for a view on the right, then search for a faint track out through trees to a grassy spot at the edge of a deep valley. 766597 (McMahons Creek map). There is a good view of the Poley Range and Deep Creek Valley from this point. Rejoin firebreak track. It is very pleasnat walking down through lush meadows and leafy Woollybutts to rejoin fire access track at 755602 (Juliet map) 5Y:! miles.

Continue north along the divide between Deep Creek and Acheron waters to the summit of Mt Strickland 3,500 feet 745668 (Juliet map) 1OY:! miles. From Strickland the road skirts the northern and eastern slopes of the mountain. Avoid jeep track to the right in a further 1 Y:! miles. 12% miles, then 300 yards further on, road down along Wilkes Creek leaves on left. Continue east and camp on one of the Wilkes Creek heads. Day's total 12=xa miles.

Next day continue northeast to a road junction at 777666 McMahons Creek map % mile. Follow left road north past Mt Kitchener. 3,200 feet. 770687 1% miles. In a further mile follow R.H. track north then climb to the summit of Keppels Lookout, 2,900 feet. Good views. 3Y:! miles.

From Keppels Lookout follow the foot track over a series of lookouts back to Bolam View and the Steavenson Falls 6=xa miles, passing Pitmans Lookout, De Ia Rue's Lookout and Oxlees Lookout, the view from Pitmans Lookout probably being the best. There are many fine views of Marysville, the Acheron Valley and Cathedral Range. From Oxlees Lookout the track drops steeply past Bolam View (distant views of Steavenson Falls) to rejoin a road below Steavenson Falls.

Total Distance 19% miles.

Note: No surface water is readily available between Feiglin's Gap and the head of Wilkes Creek. This walking trip reversed may be somewhat easier.

Map References: Juliet 1 :50,000 McMahons Creek 1 :50,000 8/2/72 F.W.H.

66 A WEEKEND IN KOOYOORA COUNTRY

Transport: Car transport to the starting point near Rheola. Leave Inglewood on the Rheola Road, continue past Kingower, at the Melville Caves turnoff veer right. In about a mile reach a road on the left -a Rheola shortcut. Leave the car at this spot­ starting and finishing point (4124331

Features: Easy walking through Red Gum savannah. Some enjoyable scrambles over and around interestmg formations of large granite boulders. Note: Because of the marked similarity of terrain in the area iL is somewhat ditficult to distinguish land­ marks, therefore navigation is sometimes difficult. Remember that there are east­ west roads to the north and south of the main Kooyarra ridge, while the Rheola­ Wedderburn Road is situated a couple of miles west of the main ridge.

Best Season: Late September-early October when the granite hills are a blaze of colour.

From the starting point walk 900 yards magnetic north. Just over a granite ridge look for an aboriginal rock hole facing north (415441). This watering place is difficult to find, a clue to its location is the fact that from this spot a large balancing rock can be seen half a mile distant across the rocky valley in a magnetic north direction. Head in that direction. This boulder is the largest balancing rock in the district, a granite boulder 60 feet long and 30-40 feet high balanced on a base of less than 4 feet diameter.

On the ridge 100 yards distant in a W.N.W. direction there are at least two more large balanced rocks. Continue % mile along the range in a westerly direction, then follow ridge N.N.W. to Melville Caves Road. Turn left and follow track downhill to the picnic ground at Catto Lodge (41 0457). 1 ~ miles. This is the hub of the Melville Caves country, the land of huge granite slabs, balancing rocks and eroded granite shells. The main section of the Melville Cave shelters are situated on the ridge to the north. Leave the picnic ground and follow tracks upwards to the lookout rock. The main rock shelter Melville's Cave can be found directly below the topmost mushroom shaped rock. 2 miles. Details of the cave are: Three entrances, a narrow forked upper section while the lower part of the cave measures 35 feet x 14 feet and has two entrances. (411460)

On the hills south of the picnic ground there are numerous other large rock shelters. There are many interesting rock formations in the vicinity of Melville Caves. From the high point above Melville Caves look north to observe Mt Kooyoora 1615 feet about 2% miles distant (the highest point in the district). About midway an intermediate ridge obtrudes across the path. Walk northwards parallel to the vehicle track through pleasant savannah forest. Nearing the intermediate ridge the road turns westerly, avoid this road head just to the left of the highest point on the ridge. After passing the crest look for a hollow surrounded by quartz rocks, the remains of the old quartz blow mine (41 0476). 3% miles. Return to the ridge then walk southeast (413472). Climbing southeast up from the creek bed look for The Windows, most unusual examples of granite weathering through the top of a large boulder.

Return north to the rocky creek and follow downstream (east) for a quarter mile (4 miles) looking for a large rock formation that closely resembles a camel (Camel Rock). Continue downstream a further quarter mile through pleasant Red Gum forest and interesting rock formations. 4% miles. Climb northwest from the creek, then after passing the ridge descend into a well wooded valley pocket where there are many strangely eroded boulders and "windows". Continue northwest to the southern foot of Mt Kooyoora. Look for a "pipe" and the deep rock hole at the base of a large granite slab. From this point there are at least two approaches to Kooyoora,

67 the direct way is across the huge granite slab that is the southern slope of the "Moun­ tain of Light".

If the weather is wet or the rock is mossy the route may be fraught with danger because of its steepness, but a quite feasible approach is that around the left hand edge of the great slab, an easier but more roundabout route is that up along the eastern spur. Head E.N.E. on to the spur's lower slopes then turn left (west) towards the summit. (There is quite a good view from the lookout rock. 6~ miles (408488)

Continue W.N.W. along the ridge past the Rocking Stone and down into a saddle. Near the top of the next high point look for some strangely eroded boulders, con­ tinuing down towards the next range gap the route passes through the strangest region of eroded boulders in all the Kooyoora country.

At the main Kooyoora Caves is the centre of the largest rock shelters in the district. The main cave is situated below a huge granite boulder 70 feet high and 200 feet long. There are several entrances to the rock shelter, a basement entrance, ground floor and mezzanine level beneath the huge serpent turned to stone during the Dream Time. Nearby, lower on the ridge there is a large eroded rock shell, the Swallows Cave 36 feet long where numerous winged visitors have their nests. On the ridge above, there is an eroded window through a granite mountain-top from a cavern 20 feet long. There are several other caverns and rock shells nearby. Between Kooyoora and the Caves the ridge route passes the Rocking Stone, The Stocks and The Beehive all names indicative of their characteristics.

Walk north from the Pass down into the valley below Kooyoora, turn right (east) search for a tiny spring bubbling out from below granite boulders almost directly under Kooyoora's steep northern face. There is a good camp site under Red Gums and saplings near here. 7~ miles (405492).

Next day, climb around the northeast shoulder of Kooyoora in a south-easterly direction. Cross boulder-strewn terrain on the east side of the ridge. On reaching an east-west vehicular track turn right (west) and follow it to the main north-south ridge, 3 miles.

Turn left and walk south through Red Gum savannah to a road junction just north of Melville Caves. 4 miles. Continue to the left and in a quarter mile look for a vehicular track on the left. Follow this road east for 750 yards, where it turns sharp right (south) (419461). Continue through well-wooded country (Red Gum, Giant Hop Bush and Nealie) below another large granite slab which is situated on the right (west). After passing an eastern flank of the range 5~ miles look for a precipitous ridge well to the right (Fortress Rock) pass over the southern end of this rocky spur heading southwest and passing many interesting rock formations.

After leaving the spur head southwest back to transport on the Kingower - Melville Caves Road. 6Y2 miles. Total Distance 14 miles.

Map Reference: Wedderburn local map Dunolly, National Development 1:100,000

28/1/72 F.W.H.

68 ONE DAY WALKS

FEDERATION TRACK, BOOBYALLA

THE KNOBS- MT BOOBYALLA- CEMENT CREEK

Distance: 8 miles

Transport: Private. To Acheron Gap on the Acheron Way.

Features: Good tracks, well marked through rain forest, magnificent stands of timber and dense fern gullies.

Description of route: From Acheron Gap 750535 take the road climbing the hill to the northwest. Follow this route ever upwards past the Z bend until the junction in the small grassy clearing. Keeping right, continue up the hill to the very top. The Knobs are hard to distinguish and it is not clear what there is to find. The track continues on to Mt Vinegar, but retracing your steps until you start to descend steeply again you should find a track on your right (when facing downhill) at 726544. Don't let its overgrown state deter you as 100 yards along its way you get the only view and a good one, too. At this point the track descends straight downhill until it reaches an old jeep track. (728538).

Turn right and follow this level track for 2 miles. The way passes through several stands of Mountain Ash and there are some groves of Myrtle Beech. The road ends in the saddle at a T junction. A sign to water 100 yards away is misleading as water is hard to find there. Take the left hand track and continue over the fallen timber for a half mile to the site of recent forestry activities.

This is the start of the Federation Track to Mt Donna Buang and though it is marked the actual track is not easy to follow through the recent timber workings. The best way to find the track is to start the climb keeping to the left in the bulldozed area, about 400 yards up the hill the track proper starts on your right. It is narrow but well marked with painted tin lids and blazes. This track can now be followed without difficulty to the top of Mt Boobyalla. The summit is a disappointment as no views are possible over the scrub.

Follow the snow poles back into the trees again and continue along the track for a good half mile. The track continues to be well marked and easy to follow. At 706508 the track is joined on the left by the one for Cement Creek. At this point, a board gives details of the track clearing by the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs. The main track continues to the summit of Mt Donna Buang but taking the left hand track and following the yellow markers the descent back to the Acheron Way is started. For the first few hundred yards the track is not clear but the way is well marked. Soon the yellow triangles lead to the head of the old timber tramway which is followed right down to the main road. This descent is through a most magnificent fern gully whose vegetation is lush and green. As the gully is damp the way down can be very slippery in places and the many fallen trees make something of an obstacle course though steps have been cut in the more difficult spots.

A most delightful drink from the creeks clear water is always welcome as the final stages of the descent draw near. The first obvious place for this refreshment is just before the track leaves the tramway and crosses the creek for the final quarter 69 mile down a wide track on the southern side of the creek. Your arrival on the main road 718493 is just uphill of the junction of the Ben Cairn road and the Acheron Way. Transport back to Acheron Gap will be by car left at this point on the outward journey or by foot along the road 5 miles.

Map Reference: Juliet 1 :50,000 Notes com pi led January 1972

WALKING NEAR MELBOURNE

BULLA - MARIBYRNONG RIVER -JACKSON'S CREEK -ORGAN PIPES SYDENHAM

With the outwards expansion of the city it is becoming increasingly difficult to find suitable walks in the vicinity of Melbourne. However just behind Tullamarine Airport there is a ten mile walk through an area of considerable variety and geological interest because of the basalt deposits. The walk is close enough to the city for the walker to travel from Essendon tram terminus to the starting point by taxi at a small cost. It takes in such highlights as the junction of the Maribyrnong River and Jackson's Creek, the Organ Pipes and the site of one of the earliest homesteads of Victoria. The walk is ideally suited to the autumn when the leaves are turning to gold and the watercourses are full or to early spring when the flowers and wattles are beginning to bloom. Map reference Sunbury 1 in 63,000.

Begin at the Bulla picnic reserve where the Sunbury Road bridge crosses the Maribyrnong River and head in a south west direction along the river. There is a track on each side but if you travel on the west side be sure to keep to the higher ground so as to avoid thick scrub along the river bank. On the east side of the river the track is clearer but you will have to cross the footbridge to the west side at 843569 and stay on this side for the remainder of the walk.

Follow the river southward until 832556. The river makes three loops at this stage and the banks are scrubby and in some cases impassable. It is better to climb at this point and follow the road until it turns westward. At this point you follow a compass bearing 125 for about a mile to the junction of the Maribyrnong River and Jackson's Creek.

If you drop right onto the junction it is advisable to climb again to the high ground and travel due west. From the high ground drop to 807548 after about two miles and have a look at the site and foundations of one of the oldest homesteads in Victoria. The place is infested with redback spiders .... so beware. The Organ Pipes is due north in the crook of the river but in order to see them you will have to return to the high ground and circle around to the creek at 807553. Cross the creek into the Organ Pipes National Park and climb the rise to the road.

From the road head south for ~ of a mile to the Calder highway. Then take a compass bearing of 140, and walk directly to Sydenham station and take a train for Melbourne.

Notes compiled May 1972. W.L.B.

70 When the Australian Andean Expedition set out to conquer Mt Lasunyoc - 20,000 ft of Solid Rock and Ice they chose

Lightweight Equipment

A full range of Sleeping Bags, Tents, Rucksacks and Groundsheets, that you can depend on to last your camping days, is available at

AUSKI PTY. LTO.: 9 Hardware Street, Melbourne J. MOLONY PTY. L TO.: 197 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne THE SCOUT SHOP: 384 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne and all suburban Scout Shops. also at

69 Liverpool Street, Sydney

ASK FOR THE PAOOYMAOE CATALOGUE

71 A WALK PROGRAMMED EVERY WEEKEND SLIDE NIGHTS, TALKS AND SOCIAL FIXTURES MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS

WALKS OF ALL STANDARDS OF ONE DAY TO ONE MONTH DURATION

WEDNESDAY MEETINGS IN CLUBROOM AT 8 p.m. HOSIER LANE, MELBOURNE

(REAR OF FORUM THEATRE)

72 THE only Bushwalking Specialists • Paddymade Equipment Rucksacks Sleeping Bags Blacks' Tents Stubai Rock Climbing Gear Dehydrated Food Stoves Hire of Tents, Sleeping Bags and Rucksacks Discount to Members of Recognised Walking Clubs +

THE LEADING SKI and BUSHWALKING CENTRE 9 HARDWARE STREET, MELBOURNE. 3000 Phone: 67-1412 - 67-1767 WALKERS! SEE THE PEOPLE WHO CARE • • • •

BOOTS RUCKSACKS SLEEPING BAGS TENTS STOVES CLOTHINCi FOOD MAPS YES WE HIRE WALKING GEAR

ALL THE GREAT NAMES FAIRY DOWN - PADDYMADE - BLACKS - FLINDERS RANGES HAWKINS - MOUNTAIN MULE - KARRIMOR - OPTIMUS molonys 197 ELIZABETH STREET, MELBOURNE (OPPOSITE G.P.O.) Telephone: 67 8428 (3 lines)