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1943 Naval Intelligence B.R. 523 (Restricted) GROGRAPHICAL HANDBOOK SERIES FOR OFFICIAL USE ONLY TUNISIA FEBRUARY 1945 NAVAL INTELLIGENCE DIVISION PORTS pp.266-272 SFAX SFAX (Figs. 52, 53; Photos. 110, 160-164, 184, 190, 218) Lat. 34° 44' N., long. 10° 46' E. Population 43,333 (8,661 Europeans). Altitude 7 feet. Chief town of a region, a civil control, and a caidat. Electricity (3-phase, 110/190 and 400/230). Hospitals (1 civil and military combined, 1 military). Meteorological station. Hotels (9). Garages (9). Sfax (Arabic facous or asfaxis, 'cucumbers') is the second town of Tunisia and, from the point of view of tonnage, the chief port. It stands on the east coast opposite the Îles Kerkenna, about midway between Ras Sidi Mansour and Ras Thyna, and is 82 miles south of Sousse, 66 miles south-south-west of Mahdia, and 86 miles north-west of Gabès by road. Behind the town a plain extends for about 9 miles to the foot of some hills between 300 and 500 feet high. The cultivated Sahel, mostly planted with olives, extends inland from Sfax. The town, which consists of an old native town with modern European quarters, is conspicuous from the sea because of its white buildings dominated by the tall minaret of the Great Mosque and the towers of the Roman Catholic Church, and of some large sheds and an overhead transporter in the port area. Sfax roadstead affords anchorage completely sheltered from all winds and with good holding-ground, although when a fresh breeze is blowing it is advisable to veer out a fair length of chain. The spring tidal range in the port of Sfax is 5 ¼ feet, an unusually large range for the Mediterranean. History Sfax was first a Carthaginian settlement and then the Roman town of Taparura; some of its building materials were used later in the construction of the Kasba and mosques in the present town, and there are various ruins north of the town. In the ninth and tenth centuries Sfax prospered, particularly under the Aghlabites, and was famous for the manufacture of olive-oil and cloth and as a fishing-centre. During the Hilalian invasion the district formed a small independent state under Arab protection from 1095 to 1099. Sfax was taken by the Normans from Sicily under Roger in 1148, but was recaptured by the Almohad leader Abd el Moumen in 1159. The Spanish occupied it for a short period in the sixteenth century. Sfax has been bombarded on five occasions, the last being in July 1881 when the French under Admiral Garnault overcame all resistance to their occupation in two days; the town was then pillaged by [267] the troops and later made to pay an indemnity equivalent to about a quarter of a million pounds. At the time of the French occupation the only anchorage was 2 miles from the shore, but in 1884 a wooden jetty about 165 feet long for the loading of esparto grass was built, a short distance south of the present railway station. It was linked to the sea by a channel 1,860 yards long. The present harbour was constructed mainly between 1895 and 1897 by the Compagnie des Ports de Tunis, Sousse, et Sfax, which still manages the port on behalf of the Tunisian Government: during building operations various Roman and later ruins were discovered. Further extensions to the harbour were undertaken in 1907 and 1921, and in recent years a considerable area of land in the neighbourhood of the port has been reclaimed and developed. Description of Town The native town or Medina is some distance north-west of the port, from which it is separated by the European and business quarter. It covers an area some 660 by 430 yards and consists of four quarters, el Ksar, el Mahdia, er Rekka, and el Hissar. The whole area is surrounded by walls with square and round towers, parts dating from the ninth century (Photo. 162): three of the gates are still used, the Bab Diwan, the main gate, on the south- east giving access to the European town, the Bab Djebli on the north-west, and the Bab Djedid below the Kasba, which occupies the south-western corner of the town. Until 1832 no Europeans were allowed in the native town, which still shows little change: its narrow and dirty streets and crowded souks make Sfax the most interesting town in Tunisia after Tunis and Kairouan. Many of the mosques, zaouias, and private houses are good examples of the native art of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, though some are considerably older; the Great Mosque, with its lofty minaret, for example, was built in 849 and rebuilt in 981, with modifications during the eighteenth century. The European town really consists of two parts, the original business area immediately south-east of the Bab Diwan, and the more recent quarter built on three sides of this area, partly on land reclaimed from the sea, and planned on a rectilinear pattern with wide and modern streets, mostly under the direction of the architect Guy. These quarters include nearly all the public buildings such as the Town Hall, where is a small museum containing Roman antiquities from Thyna (the ancient Thaenae), about 7 ½ miles to the south on the [268] Gabès road. The residential area has also spread north of the native town into the suburb of Moulinville, which consists mainly of French villas, and west to Picville, the home of many of the Maltese, Greeks, and lower-class Italians. The great Regional Hospital, a combined civil and military hospital serving central and southern Tunisia, is three-quarters of a mile north-west of the native town. South- west of it beyond the suburb of Picville are some public gardens, including a Jardin d'Essai, in which are two large reservoirs. There are also more than 500 bottle-shaped reservoirs called nasrias, gifts to the town by wealthy inhabitants, in an area due north of the Bab Djebli. To the north-east of the old town are military barracks, beyond which is a large open space, 660 by 330 yards, known as the polo ground and before the present war used as an emergency landing-ground. [269] Beyond the ring of immediate suburbs there extends a large area covered by well- kept gardens with fruit-trees and vines, each with a fairly large house or bordj (Photo. 160). Still farther from the centre of Sfax are the olive-groves which extend continuously for many miles inland. Those nearest to the town were established early m the nineteenth century and most of them are badly set out and comparatively unproductive: but beyond them are the plantations established since 1892 on the 'terres sialines' (as described on pp. 287-288), with straight rows of carefully tended trees (Photos. 177, 179). In contrast to the Sahel of Sousse, the groves are continuous for many miles, with no clearings, villages, or even houses. The population has grown steadily from about 15,000 in 1881 to 26,625 to 26,625 in 1921 and 43.333 in 1936: with the adjoining cheikats of Sakiet ez Zit, Merkez Kamoun, Merkez Damak, Merkez ben Halima, and Sakiet ed Dair the population is about 100,000. At the last census the urban population included 5,224 Frenchmen, 2,610 Italians, 827 other Europeans (chiefly Maltese and Greeks), and 3,466 Jews. Industry and Commerce About 7 million olive-trees grow in the district surrounding Sfax, and one of the main industries in the town is the manufacture of olive-oil and of associated industrial oils, vaseline, glycerine, and soap. Altogether there are about 400 presses, many owned by natives: the most modern are those belonging to the Société générale des Huileries du Sahel Tunisien and the Société de l'Huilerie Franco-Tunisienne. Fishing is carried out extensively on the shallow shelf off the coast; altogether there are about 1,000 fisheries in the district (including the Îles Kerkenna), each surrounded by wattle fences, producing between 800 and 1,000 tons of fish per annum (Photo. 189). In addition between 125 and 130 tons of sponges are landed during the season (1 January to 1 October) by about 1,300 vessels (600 Italian, 50 Greek, and 650 native), together with 250 to 300 tons of octopus, exported mainly to Greece. Several markets are held daily, mostly in the native town. \ Sfax was formerly the starting-point of a trans-Saharan caravan route, but its hinterland now extends southward only as far as the phosphate-producing region around Gafsa, to which it is linked by railway. The principal exports are phosphate (1,205,000 tons per annum in the period 1934-1938), olive-oil (averaging 20,000 tons, but sometimes as much as 40,000 tons or more), salt (43,000 tons), [270] esparto grass (30,000 tons), with smaller quantities of cereals, dates, almonds, wool, sponges, dried octopus, and hides. Imports consist of coal, petroleum, timber and other building materials, iron, hardware, textiles, sugar, flour, and other foodstuffs. Exports far exceed imports, and in 1937 were greater than those of Tunis and la Goulette combined, accounting for 1,490,235 tons of the port's total trade of 1,639,877 tons. In the same year Sfax was used by 1,665 vessels with a total tonnage of 930,504, and 801 passengers landed or embarked. Description of Port The harbour consists mainly of an L-shaped basin, the Bassin du Port, dredged to a depth of 21 feet and surrounded by quays connected with the railway.
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