Day trips from Nagoya Walking on the Nakasendo Kyoto to Edo NIC WALKING GUIDES VOLUNTEERS ©The Nagoya International Center 2012 www.nic-nagoya.or.jp 1 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Introduction With a population of 2.2million, Nagoya. The capital of Aichi Prefecture is the core city of Japan’s fourth largest metropolitan area. As commerce, industry, and culture flourished in the Edo Period, Nagoya grew into a thriving metropolis. Nagoya has continued to grow since Ieyasu Tokugawa, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate Government, built Nagoya Castle in 1612. A culture and tradition of manufacturing blossomed during the Meiji Period and is still developing today. Nagoya is conveniently located at the top of Ise Bay, a train or car ride away from many spots of historical, and cultural interest. The old Tokaido and Nakasendo Highways, which connected Kyoto and Tokyo in the days before rail, are easily accessible for a day trip from Nagoya. This guide has been prepared for foreign residents of Nagoya and visitors who are interested in exploring local tourist attractions, on and off the beaten path. This guide is one of a series of walking guides which cover various areas in and surrounding Nagoya. Contained in this guide is a model walking route for specified area. You will find a number of points of cultural and historical interest, situated in and near the specified location. A short explanation of the history of each point has also has been included. We hope that you find this guide useful. Nagoya International Center 2 © Nagoya International Center 2012 About the Nakasendo Highway The old Nakasendo Highway map showing each shukuba village The Tokugawa Government constructed two main highways, the Nakasendo and the Tokaido between Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo Period. The Nakasendo Highway ran through the central Japan including mountainous regions. The Tokaido Highway ran along coast of the Pacific Ocean from Edo to Kyoto. The Nakasendo Highway was approximately 550 kilo meters long. The Tokugawa Government set up 69 shukuba villages (stages) and the ichiri-tsuka on the Nakasendo Highway between Edo and Kyoto at the beginning of the Edo Period. An ichiri-tsuku was a marker (much like a mile post) set up at regular intervals of 3.9 km along the Nakasendo Highway. The ichiri-zuku were set up at the beginning of the Edo Period by the Tokugawa Government and marked the distance from Edo. The Tokugawa Government obligated each shukuba village (stage) to build the following accommodation facilities: Honjin: (本陣 ) Only court nobles, district lords, and hatamoto (direct retainers of the Shogun) were allowed to stay overnight stay at honjin (officially appointed inns). Of course ordinary people were not allowed to use them. It was therefore required that whoever managed the honjin needed to have strong financial power, and the inns were passed down through the family. Waki Honjin: (脇本陣) The waki-honjin assisted the honjin when honjin could not afford to accommodate everyone. Samurai were allowed to stay at the waki honjin. Hatago & Kichinyado: (旅籠 & 木賃宿) There were two kinds of inns during the Edo Period, hatagoya and kichinyado, which ordinary 3 © Nagoya International Center 2012 people made use of for their overnight stay. Hatagoya was accommodation that came with meals. Kichinyado was accommodation in which travelers and salesmen brought their own food and paid only a firewood expense in stead of a room charge. Tonyaba: (問屋場) A station where horses were stationed to handle cargo for upper- class travelers including court nobles, officials, and federal lords. Kosatsuba: (高札場) A kosatsuba - contemporary public bulletin-board - was set up in each shukuba (stage) and each village by the Tokugawa shogunate for travelers and villagers. Masukata (枡形) The shukuba village was also constructed with the aim of defending the Tokugawa Government. In order to prevent infiltration by enemy troops, the Tokugawa Government made a main road curved at right angle in each shukuba village. The Nakasendo Highway was used by not only ordinary travelers but also a lot of district lords accompanied by many samurai followers owing to the Sankin-kotai law (daimyo’s alternate-year residence in Edo) during The Edo Period. However it was the daughter of the Emperor, Kazunomiya, who was the most famous among these travelers. She traveled to Edo from Kyoto when she married a member of Tokugawa family at end of the Edo Period. On the way to Edo along the Nakasendo Highway she left behind various writings at many sites where she had a night stay or rest. 4 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Part 1: Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge in Kyoto to Otsu-shuku - 14.73km Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge (三条大橋) Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge was a departure point for travelers to go to Edo from Kyoto, and was also a terminal point for both the Nakasendo and the Tokaido routes. Travelers who arrived at Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge after a great struggle of long distance walking from Edo experienced a feeling of Historic Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge relief and pleasure. The Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge crosses the Kamogawa River. Present day Sanjo-Ohashi Bridge Statues of Yaji-san & Kita-san (弥次､喜多像) Erected at the edge of the river are statues of two men, Yaji-san and Kita-san, who were heroes of a novel written by Jipensha Ikku, one of the most popular authors during the Edo Period. Kame-no-mizu Fudoson Temple (亀の水不動尊) The Kame-no-mizu Hudoson temple, was the first staging post from Sanjo-Ohashi. Here clean and fresh water flows out of the mouth of a turtle statue. Travelers from Edo or eastern districts took a rest drinking water here. In front of small temple 5 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Imperial Mausoleum of Tenchi-Tenno Emperor (天智天皇陵) This is the Imperial mausoleum of Tenchi- Tenno Emperor, who was the 38th emperor (626 – 671 AD). Ruin of Osaka-no- seki (逢坂の関址) Osaka-no-seki was a checking station, strategically located where the two main highways, the Nakasendo and the Tokaido, converged. This checkpoint was built in Mount Osaka about 1300 years ago. Gesshinji (月心寺) Gesshinji was a luxurious house which was used as a resort house by a painter during the Meiji Period. It is said that the garden is blessed with gorgeous scenery. Semimaru Shrine (蝉丸神社) The Semimaru Shrine was a shrine sacred to the memory of Semimaru - a blind master of the Biwa musical instrument about 1000 years ago. The shrine had the authority to issue certificates for music at the time. 6 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Otsu-shukuba village (stage) (大津宿) Otsu-shuku was the 53rd shukuba village along the Tokaido Highway, and the 69th shukuba village along the Nakasendo Highway. Now Otsu-shuku village is located in Otsu, Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県大津市). It had been very prosperous, and has the biggest population of the 53 shukuba villages along the Tokaido Highway, as it was both a shukuba village and a port town of Lake Biwa, through which many various goods were transported. However, now the landscape has changed to an area of Otsu city office building and there is nothing left of the old shukuba village. Scenery of Otsu-shukuba village Gichuji Temple (義仲寺) There is a grave of Kiso Yoshinaka in the temple. He was a samurai from the Kiso area. He participated in the destruction of the Heike family who had controlled the capital city Kyoto in those days. However, he was in turn killed by Yoshitsune Minatomo. The temple also holds the grave of Matsuo Basho, Gate of Gichuji Temple the most famous haiku poet during The Edo Period. This section of the walk concludes here. Access: Otsu-shuku village: JR Otsu Station (JR Tokaido Line) 7 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Part 2: Otsu-shuku to Kusatsu-shuku - 13.85 km Start from Gichuji Temple On this second walking tour on the Nakasendo Highway, start from Gichuji Temple and stop by Wada shrine. The main shrine was built up during Kamakura period (about 820 years ago) and is assigned as an important cultural property by the Japanese government. There is a big ginkgo tree Gate of Wada Shrine in the shrine ground, which is said to be 600 to 650 years old. Ruin of Zeze Castle （膳所城址） Stone well of old Zeze Castle Castle gate of old Zeze Castle Zeze castle was built up by Ieyasu Tokugawa in 1601 on the shores of Lake Biwa (the largest lake in Japan) after he won the Battle of Sekigahara. However, the castle was torn down in 1870 when the Tokugawa government switched to the Meiji government. Now, the castle has been converted to Zeze Park. Shinotsu-jinsha Shrine & Zeze-jinsha Shrine （篠津神社、膳所神社） There were three castle gates in the old Zeze castle. Two gates were respectively reconstructed at Shinotsu-Jinsha shrine and Zeze-Jinsha shrine which are located nearby the ruins of Zeze Castle. Zeze-jinsha Shrine Shinotsu-jinsha Shrine 8 © Nagoya International Center 2012 Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge （瀬田の唐橋） Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge stretches over the Setakawa River which is the only river flowing out from Lake Biwa. In ancient times this area was an important security checkpoint for the old capital city of Kyoto. Because, there were only two ways to come to Kyoto from eastern districts; one was navigating over Lake Biwa by boat and the other by crossing the Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge. Seta-no-Karahashi Bridge Noji-no-Ichiritsuka （野路の一里塚） Ichiritsuka was a milestone marker which Tokugawa Shogunate built every 1 里 (about 3.9 km) along both the Nakasendo Highway and the Tokaido Highway, which respectively started from Nihon-bashi Bridge in Edo. Ichiritsuka was built with a large tree planted into a large mound.