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ISSUE 1 • 2015 www.peranakan.org.sg

EDITORIAL BOOKS On the cover • 3 A Brilliant 50! 46 Sarong Kebaya (detail), 2015, Acrylic on canvas, 45 x 55cm. Awards & Accolades 50 The Babas Live On Photo courtesy of the artist. Specially painted for by Alvin Ong. The Peranakan FEATURES THEATRE 4 Peranakan Arts Festival 51 The LKY Musical 8 Lee Kuan Yew, Singaporean GSA’s Hidden Truth 16 8 Glorious Lives 20 50 Things Quintessentially EVENTS Peranakan 52 The Thrill of Conventions 53 Virtually Peranakan DALAM DAPOR Chingay Spectacular 30 Learning to Cook in Christmas Joy at Peacehaven 30 Post-Independence NOTICEBOARD 36 A Much-loved Legacy 54 Federation of Peranakan Associations Chakap Chakap New Members 38 Characteristic Panache Durians Galore

Art CHAKAP HABIS 40 A Young Painter’s Promise 55 Grand Aunty Makes 42 A Love Affair with Canvas an Entrance An Eye for Detail 43 The Adoptee as Artist DIRECTORY 44 Moving Across Images 56 The Peranakan Guide, 20 45 Bespoke Sulam Singapore

THE PERANAKAN ASSOCIATION SINGAPORE President: Peter Wee • First Vice-President: Alan Koh • Second Vice-President: Chan Eng Thai • Honorary Secretary: Ee Sin Soo • Assistant Honorary Secretary: Gwen Ong • Treasurer: Angeline Kong • Assistant Treasurer: Edmond Wong • Committee Members: Monica Alsagoff, Gavin Chan, Linda Chee, Zan Ho, Emeric Lau, Adrian Tan, Raymond Wong • For enquiries please contact Peter Wee at +65 63451220 THE PERANAKAN MAGAZINE • Editor: Linda Chee • Assistant Editor: Emeric Lau • Associate Editor: Elisabeth Chan • Editorial Committee Members: Colin Chee, Bryan Tan, Melissa Yeow • Webmaster: Edmond Wong • Designer: Michelle Yap • Advertising Manager: Alvin Sng • For advertising enquiries, please contact Alvin Sng at 9839 8188. The Peranakan is published by The Peranakan Association Singapore, Raffles City PO Box 1640, Singapore 911755. Email:[email protected] • Printer: Lithographic Print House Pte Ltd. M C I ( P ) 1 3 8 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 4

All reasonable efforts have been made to identify and contact copyright holders but in some cases these could not be traced. If you hold or administer rights for materials published here, please contact the publishers. Any errors or omissions will be corrected in subsequent editions. Copyright is by the publisher. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. The Peranakan magazine and The Peranakan Association Singapore disclaim all responsibilities in the articles herein, and state that the views expressed in them, if any, are those of the writers and not theirs. They assume no responsibility for unsolicited materials or articles published herein and state that the writers are wholly responsible for the veracity and authenticity of their articles.

1 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 2 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 e ditorial a brilliant 50! e pay tribute to Singapore’s foremost Peranakan of our early independence years: our founding Prime Minister, LeeW Kuan Yew, who passed away on 23 March. Coincidentally, Mr Lee was a member of the Golden Jubilee Committee of the Straits Chinese British Association (forerunner of our Association) back in 1950 and also served as Honorary Secretary for one term. Since the founding of Singapore in 1819, have made significant contributions in many fields including politics, law, business and the arts. We highlight eight of the 50 pioneers selected by the Peranakan Museum. The Association will also honour these remarkable babas and nyonyas at our Peranakan Ball on 21 August. Early November promises exciting times. The Association will showcase the inaugural Peranakan Arts Festival and also host the 28th Baba Nyonya Convention. As you turn the pages, read about the 50 things that we consider most iconic to our culture. And how home cooks managed to expand our repertoire in the past 50 years. Thank you for your patience in waiting for this issue. In the previous issue, we had announced our intention to take a breather and to produce two issues instead of four in 2015. Our committee comprises volunteers.We hope you understand. Happily, we welcome two new members to our team: Elisabeth Chan, who joins us as Associate Editor to enhance copy, and Melissa Yeow, who will help manage our administrative tasks. We hope more babas and nyonyas will step forward to help our magazine or to contribute articles of interest. Enjoy our bumper issue! Linda Chee, Editor awards & accolades ick Lee has composed a new Peter Wee, our TPAS President, On 4 November 2014, leading National Day Parade (NDP) was feted with a Pioneer author Josephine Chia was awarded theme song, Our Singapore. Generation Tribute Award the Singapore Literature Prize for DThis adds to the classic Home which from the Ministry of Culture, Non-Fiction 2014 for her book, has become a much-loved song for Community and Youth on Kampong Spirit, Gotong Royong: Life all Singaporeans. Our Singapore looks 27 January 2015. This was in in Potong Pasir 1955 to 1965. This is into the future recognition the first time and pays tribute of his that Singapore’s to the pioneers contributions most prestigious of Singapore and to the Arts literary prize has founding Prime & Heritage been handed Minister Lee Kuan Sector in out to works of Yew. Dick is also the Singapore. non-fiction. creative director for this year’s NDP.

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7 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature Lee Kuan Yew, SinG APorean (1923 – 2015) Dr Lee Suan Yew fondly recalls the Peranakan upbringing and traditional values espoused by his eldest brother, Lee Kuan Yew or LKY as he is popularly known to Singaporeans. Daughter, Shermay lee, joins the interview over AFTERNOON TEA with Nyonya Linda Chee

A Peranakan Heritage Not surprisingly, he gave LKY an English name, ingapore’s late founding Prime Minister Harry, when he was born. Lee Kuan Yew (LKY) was born at home at “Lee Hoon Leong never went to England. But S92, Kampong Java Road, on 16 September through his business dealings with the British in 1923. He was the eldest son of Peranakan parents. colonial Singapore, he realised the British respected LKY’s father, Lee Chin Koon, came to Singapore at you if you spoke their language and followed their the age of five; he was brought from Semarang by customs. They would look down on you if you were LKY’s grandfather, Lee Hoon Leong, who had been too chinchai (easygoing) or spoke patois (Baba Malay), appointed by sugar king Oei Tiong Ham to manage ” says Dr Lee Suan Yew, the youngest of three his shipping business in Singapore. Lee Hoon brothers and a sister. “The nyonyas and babas then Leong was a Hakka Peranakan from Singapore. His spoke proper English and adopted an anglicized wife, Ko Liem Nio, was an Indonesian Peranakan lifestyle, although they were very Chinese in their from Semarang. LKY’s mother, Chua Jim Neo, was a values.” Hokkien Peranakan born in Singapore. She was the LKY’s father, Lee Chin Koon, was brought up in daughter of Chua Kim Teng, a Singapore Peranakan a well-heeled upper middle-class environment. As whose family came from . a young boy, he wore short pants with a jacket and handkerchief. He spoke with a crisp English accent. Growing Up in Colonial Times His genteel European manners were carefully Both of LKY’s grandfathers, Lee Hoon Leong nurtured. and Chua Kim Teng, were fashionably dapper in The fortunes of both families were adversely the colonial style. They favoured dressing in three- affected during the Great Depression. Fortunately, piece suits and hats despite the tropical climate. Lee Chin Koon had a secure job as a storekeeper Lee Hoon Leong was especially westernized and at Shell Oil Company. He was well regarded by his spoke English fluently. He went to school to Raffles employers and worked his way up to eventually Institution and worked as a purser on British ships. become a depot manager. Dr Lee relates, “My father

8 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 Lee Kuan Yew, SinG APorean (1923 – 2015)

was given a car, a chauffeur and a house, where we in patois. When it came to The first cousins from sometimes stayed during weekends.” reprimanding the children, “my the maternal side at In 1945, Mr and Mrs Lee Chin Koon set up home in paternal grandmother Liem Nio the wedding of Dr Lee Suan Yew’s son, Lee a rambling bungalow at 38, Oxley Road. The house was scolded us in very flowery terms, Kern Tzen to Adelaine to become LKY’s residence for the rest of his life. like kurang ajar and sial,” smiles Manzano in 2009 at As a teenager, LKY spoke only proper English to Dr Lee. the Shangri-la Hotel. his family. He was 10 years older than Dr Lee and was Seated from left: regarded with brotherly respect. “He was not a chinchai Filial Piety Jimmy Seet, Vivien Seet (Mrs Lian), Irene “We were raised as Peranakans Seet (Mrs Ooi), the late He was always kuai... when we were young. During Freddy Lee, the late Chinese New Year, we would soja Lee Kuan Yew, Monica precise, prim and proper. (kneel down) to wish our father Lee (Mrs Chan), Dr and mother. Then we got our Lee Suan Yew, Chia – Dr Lee Suan Yew Hian Neo (Ah Qui), ang pows (red packets). My father Chia Cheng Neo (easygoing) person,” Dr Lee says, adding that,” “He was would wear the silk baju with and Chua Gek Choo. always kuai (well behaved). The rest of us were more Chinese cloth shoes. When we Standing from left: playful. We played chatek, chongkak and marbles. grew older, however, we shook Arthur Seet and the LKY, on the other hand, was already serious. He was hands,” Dr Lee recalls. late Chua Choo Lim. studious, precise, prim and proper.” “My father kept up the ritual of ancestral worship. Eventually, the other Lee siblings – Freddy, Dennis, He stopped this tradition after the Japanese Suan Yew and sister Monica – also spoke less and less Occupation when we moved out of 28, Norfolk patois. They realised that speaking good English in Road. A number of us became Christians later so we school, during those years when students sang God would not touch joss sticks. My father respected our Save The King at morning assembly, was “important”. religious preference.” The elders, however, continued to communicate While Baba Lee Chin Koon was the stern

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disciplinarian, his nyonya wife Chua Jim Neo was the loving, nurturing mother. LKY was “very close to her.” LKY’s 1998 memoirs, The Singapore Story, give a glimpse of his quiet admiration for his mother during his growing up years and how, perhaps, he took after her in many ways: “A strong character with great energy and resourcefulness... Had she been born one generation later and continued her education beyond secondary school, she could easily have “Mak (grandmother) loved Above, Lee Kuan become an effective business executive. unconditionally. She helped many Yew in London “She devoted her life to people from all walks of life.” visiting his brother Lee Suan Yew, then Throughout the raising her children to be well- Shermay says proudly “Mak’s educated and independent a medical student interview, father IQ and EQ were very high. My at Cambridge and daughter would professionals, and she stood up grandfather’s mother was a good University. uphold etiquette to my father to safeguard their cook, so Mak had to learn to cook (adat) in relation to future. My brothers, my sister to prove her self-worth and capability. She did very older members of and I were very conscious of the family. Dr Lee well in whatever she decided to do.” refers to LKY as Kor her sacrifices; we felt we could Shermay points out that LKY and her grandmother (elder brother) while not let her down and did our “had similar values and mindsets as problem solvers. Shermay uses Tai best to be worthy of her and to They were both very family-oriented”. Pak (eldest uncle). live up to her expectations. Dr Lee remembers his mother going to the wet She refers to her “As I grew older, she began market, and young boys carrying her bags to the taxi. grandmother as Mak, consulting me as the eldest son grandfather as Yeye She would say, “Why do you do this? You must study and aunty as Ku Ma. on all important family matters, hard.” And she would help them get jobs. For ease of reading, so that while still in my teens, He adds that LKY was uhau (filial) to his parents. this article uses I became de facto head of the Chua Jim Neo died in 1980 and Lee Chin Koon passed English terms as far family. This taught me how to away 17 years later in 1997. as possible. take decisions.” Senior Lee was well looked after at the Oxley Dr Lee’s daughter, Shermay, residence until his august years. When he was in his recalls her grandmother as a person who was “very late 80s, he moved in with Dr Lee’s family. Being in capable, loving, wonderful, unbeatable, exceptional private practice, it was also easier for Dr Lee to take - she’s part of the reason why our family is what care of their father. it is today, and he is who he is,” referring to LKY. After the move, LKY and Mrs Lee would visit his A Fine Peranakan Palate Our interview with Dr Lee was a bottle of Shermay’s Cilicuka into a held over a large dining table little dish. “Squeeze the lime first, it where his daughter, Shermay had gives the extra kick,” he advises. The organised a delectable afternoon tea combination is delicious. “The lime on nyonyaware. Shermay is herself a (lemo kasturi) is from my garden.” well-known Peranakan chef and Just like a Peranakan home, to have consultant. lime, pandan and belimbing growing “Come, let us eat. We can work later. in the garden. Makan first,” invites Dr Lee. Babas and Dr Lee brings over a large plastic nyonyas are known to never let their bottle from a side table laden with guests go hungry. bottles and tins of nyonya cookies. I decide to try all three types of “Have some keropok,” with a broad finger sandwiches on the platter – egg, smile on his face. bakwa (sweetmeat) and lengkong The most Peranakan trait about (spicy fish floss). Dr Lee urges me to the family, says Dr Lee, is eating. try the sandwiches with the chilli chuka He remembers the lively family Colin Chee Dr Lee Suan Yew. (vinegar). I spoon out chilli sauce from gatherings when nyonya aunties

10 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 father at least once every month on Sundays, always her to send her other sons to ACS because of its at teatime about 5 pm, to “chitchat” and ask after his Christian values.” father’s health. Our father was very pleased that his “My mother was very perceptive. Besides patois and eldest son came to visit him regularly.” English, she spoke Hokkien, but not Mandarin. Way When their mother was alive, LKY would, “busy before my brother realized the importance of learning as he was, send one red packet to her every month.” Mandarin, she had said to me, ‘you are Chinese so you “He never forgot. My mother wouldn’t tell us how had better learn some Mandarin to keep your Chinese much it contained. It was uhau.” culture’.” Before he turned 16, Dr Lee attended Mandarin classes at Prinsep Street three times a week Education and Charity for a few years. Below left, Mrs Lee As a young boy, LKY lived with his paternal LKY was compelled to Chin Koon (Chua Jim grandfather Lee Hoon Leong, whom he much learn Mandarin at 32, when Neo) with three of her admired, in Katong. He pleaded with his mother to he was in politics. It was a grandchildren. From transfer him out of a Chinese school to Telok Kurau tough call as an adult but he left: Sherlyn Lee, Lee Wei Ling and Lena Lee. English School in primary one. “Mandarin was totally persevered. Dr Lee says with alien to me, and unconnected with my life,” LKY had admiration: “My brother was Below right, Mr Lee said in his memoirs. such a brilliant linguist – Chin Koon at his Consistently a top student, he entered Raffles English, Japanese to interpret birthday celebration Institution where he continued to excel. His brothers during the war, proper Malay at the home of his son, Dennis. From left: Mrs went to Anglo-Chinese School (ACS). Dr Lee explains, and Hokkien. Later he told Gloria Lee, Monica “My mother had consulted Yap Pheng Gek, who was a us that ‘to unite Chinese Lee, Lee Kuan Yew and teacher at ACS before he became a banker. He advised Singaporeans we must speak Sherlyn Lee.

would present their best dishes for Peranakan food,” adds Dr Lee. “The would gather on the first day to savour everyone to enjoy. memory of my mother’s food, the his mother’s Peranakan food, and catch LKY’s Peranakan favourites were flavours, came back. up over her freshly-baked sugee , his mother’s , gado gado and “He would ask my sister Monica, sugee cookies, kueh belanda (Dutch cake achar, all of which his sister Monica is ‘what have you got?’ She would send or love letters) and kuching (cat’s able to replicate. across nyonya food. Until he said, ‘It’s tongue). In later years, Shermay would For many years LKY went light troublesome, I don’t want to call you all send over sugee cake to LKY’s house. on Peranakan because he was the time.’ He sent his maid over to her, His appreciation was expressed in a careful of the rich fat content in the to learn to cook Peranakan dishes.” simple “thank you.” santan (coconut milk). “At one time Disciplined as he was about what Shermay regarded LKY as a food he steered clear of mee siam because he ate, LKY was known to have a connoisseur. “My aunt Monica said he it has a lot of starch.” Disciplined sweet tooth. He could resist kueh lapis had an ‘astute tongue’. He had a fine to a fault, LKY adhered to a more (), which he considered too palate just like any good Peranakan. restricted diet of ‘western’ fare such sweet and rich. However, he made an A lot of people aren’t aware of that. as roast chicken and steaks. And exception with sugee cake “because For health reasons as his priority was sashimi, noticing that the Japanese he loved almonds,” reveals Dr Lee. It nation building, he followed an austere lived longer, healthier lives. was an indulgence at every Lunar New diet. Later on in life when he was “When he grew much older, Year celebration. relaxed, he was more nostalgic for the however, his palate remembered That was when the extended family flavours of his mother’s dishes.”

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in a common language, Mandarin. All races must the grandson of LKY’s brother, Dennis. Dr Lee’s wife, master their own language. English would be the Pamelia, and their two grandchildren who happened to common language in Singapore’.” be in London, were also present. “My brother had foresight. He also asserted that “He was very frugal. But when it came to education Mandarin was essential to do business in China - this and charity, he gave generously,” says Dr Lee, citing a was his thinking many years before China opened its donation of more than S$10 million for learning the doors to the world.” Chinese language. “He believed in education.” The Mandarin language was to become LKY’s lifelong passion. Up till his last days in hospital, he A Strong, Caring Brother continued with Mandarin lessons. “His mind was LKY was always the leader. always working. He wanted to learn all the time.” However, he was more than an older brother to his Dr Lee says his siblings. “He sometimes talked like a father. But he brother’s love for his was never condescending. Instead, he advised us and Choo, the Nyonya Wife alma mater – Raffles he was always practical.” Dr Lee recalls with Institution and For instance, LKY had suggested that Dr Lee take amusement one loving aspect Fitzwilliam College up law at the Inns of Court in England and finish of the special relationship in Cambridge within three and a half years. “My brother tried to save between LKY and Mrs Lee. University - was my mother’s money. But my passion was medicine.” “My sister-in-law was ever so “very deep”. LKY Dr Lee made it to Cambridge University. diplomatic. If he was eating was “a very loyal LKY influenced his youngest brother to become , which he person” and an elocutionist. “I was 17 then. I was keen on public loved, she would say, ‘Harry, I donated to these speaking and was chosen to represent ACS at inter- think it’s too much. Can you two institutions and school contests. I had training from my teacher, the give me half?’ She never said also to education Reverend Doraisamy, who later became the bishop of don’t eat.” and charity. the Methodist church.” Mrs Lee, or “A lot of people Dr Lee says one experience was particularly was the third daughter of OCBC banker Kwa Siew Tee, did not know. He memorable. In 1951, the US daily Herald Tribune a Peranakan from Semarang, gave quietly.” sought student representatives from various countries and Wee Yew Neo, a Singapore After LKY’s to meet President Harry S Truman at the White nyonya. Dr Lee remembers death, Fitzwilliam House. The ACS principal then, Mr Thio Chan Bee, that Mrs Lee could cook College conducted selected him to compete against the other local nyonya food: “Before she got a memorial students for the golden opportunity to visit New York married she was using Ellice service for him. and Washington. Handy’s cookbook.” Mrs 200 Singaporean Dr Lee consulted his brother, who was already back Handy was the principal of students studying from London and practising as a lawyer. LKY thought Methodist Girls’ School where in Cambridge political questions would be fielded and prepared him Mrs Lee had been a student. attended, including with knowledge on Nehru and Mao. “I still remember Christopher Eng, the hour-long chat in our living room.” Unfortunately,

Left, The newlyweds after registering their marriage in Singapore in 1950, with Kwa Geok Choo’s mother Wee Yew Neo.

Right, Mr and Mrs Lee at the home of his brother, Dr Lee Suan Yew during one Christmas Eve in the early 1990s. Between them is the portrait of his great grandfather, Lee Bok Boon.

12 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 politics was not fielded at the interview. He lost to with a large platter of sashimi served Above left, a student from Saint Joseph’s Institution. When to him. “He took his time to savour Celebrating Lunar the dejected student came home, LKY smiled every slice with sips of fine Riesling.” New Year at a lohei encouragingly: “You can’t win every time you know, dinner with siblings and their spouses. you’ve got to lose sometime.” An Exceptional Character Clockwise from left: LKY and his bride, Kwa Geok Choo also took LKY’s serious, no-nonsense Dr Lee Suan Yew, Dr Lee out every now and then in his navy blue demeanour belied his dry wit. Mrs Eleanor Lee, Studebaker. “He wanted a change of diet. So he said In a recent facebook posting by Kwa Geok Choo, ‘Come, let’s go to Johor’. At that time we were one Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, Freddy Lee, Mrs country. We used to frequent the food market in that went viral, he showed his Pamelia Lee, George Johor Bahru, which was famous for its and mee father’s telegram in 1958 using the Chan, Monica Lee rebus. He just loved this combination.” word “battleship” instead of “steam and Mrs Gloria Lee. boat” for dinner, to save words and money. It caught the public’s fancy Above right, Lee The Final Lap, With Family Kuan Yew with his and “battleship” became, for a while, LKY was very close to his wife, children and granddaughter Li the new moniker for steam-boat. Dr grandchildren. He made it a point for the extended Xiuqi as a toddler Lee nods, “His humour was not the at his Oxley Road family, including the families of his siblings, to come friendly banter but he had sharp and home one Lunar together during the eve and first day of the Lunar intelligent wit. My brother was not New Year’s Eve. New Year. Chap Goh Meh (the last day of the New given to small talk.” Year) was the occasion to meet up with his cousins Dr Lee says that as Prime Minister then, LKY was when he was available. allowed to stay at Sri Temasek within the Istana. But Dr Lee says that having meals together on festive he only used the place to occasions and birthdays exercise or meet people were “the best days of our for lunch. “He was very lives together. LKY would He was very frugal. But careful about using state be most relaxed when he when it came to education and money.” was with the family.” LKY never believed in Sitting back in his charity, he gave generously. building up a personality dining chair, Dr Lee smiles cult. Dr Lee vouches that “he just believed in doing thoughtfully, “When he was at my home, we made good for Singapore and he and Rajaratnam couched sure to have food he enjoyed, like sashimi and it into the pledge: One nation, one people. Now, the cordyceps . The last time he was here he saw young say, ‘Wow, he did all that for us’.” us eating roast beef. We dared not offer him in case Raised as a Peranakan, the English-educated of indigestion. But he said, ‘Can I have a piece of LKY stayed true to his traditional Chinese roots till that please?’ And he enjoyed it. He finished a whole the end. He had lived out by example the Confucian piece with no after effects.” values that were instilled in babas and nyonyas from Dr Lee says happily, yet with a tinge of sadness, young – values such as family unity, filial piety and “We had a marvellous time at my 81st birthday last education, which he believed were essential building October at Four Seasons Hotel. He stayed for much blocks for a strong, cohesive nation. of the evening. He was in a jolly mood. He was in I ask why LKY never admitted to his cultural good form. Towards the end of his life he had his identity as a Peranakan. Dr Lee feels it was his way good days. of expressing his cultural and even religious neutrality “Then he came to my home last Christmas Eve for nation building, adding that, “Even when it came to for a family reunion. His grandson, Yipeng, was here religion, he said, ‘Don’t try to convert me’.” too. We had a lovely time. My brother would not He was above all interests, a Singaporean. miss it. He could eat selectively.” Dr Lee shows us a photograph of LKY at the head of the dining table, All photographs copyright of Dr Lee Suan Yew.

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Impressions of LKY

Gavin Gareth Chan, a 30-year-old A Bridge Baba serving the grassroots in Marine Between Parade and Joo Chiat, reflects on his encounters with LKY

Tw o knew him as Minister Mentor Lee. Worlds He was larger than life; more of a All the maternal (Chua) cousins I concept and an institution that I are very close. LKY was our eldest held in awe. Until I met him in person. cousin, nearly 20 years older than It was in 2007. I was a university student at a ministerial me. His mother used to host the forum with LKY. His first order of business was to Chap Goh Meh dinners for all her establish which school I came from. Catholic High School, brothers and sisters, their children I replied. ‘A good school that embraces bilingualism. and spouses. After my mother, who Young man, how is your Chinese?’ He quizzed. Sheepishly was the last sister, passed away, LKY I answered that I seldom spoke it. ‘Work on your Chinese, insisted that the cousins continue it will be very important in your future,’ he added. with the Chap Goh Meh gatherings. At another chance encounter several months later, When he was the Prime Minister it LKY remembered our conversation. was a challenge for him to join us. We were so pleased that after he He quizzed me about my Chinese once retired and became Minister Mentor again. I replied to him in Mandarin. I he could finally join us. He was a might have imagined it but I thought very warm, family man. he gave a nod of approval. That was the – Mrs Irene Ooi, first cousin to LKY last time I would meet him in person. I would catch fleeting glances of him I was 20 and a medical student in during public engagements but did not 1965. I remember Lim Yew Hock and have the chance to speak to him again. David Marshall as possible leaders but What struck me the most about LKY doubt they would have been able to was how he sought a personal connection accomplish what he did. The Plen and with those he came into contact with. other communists, first in the PAP and Even though he was the former prime minister, he treated then the Barisan Socialis, would have all as though we were his grandchildren. A little distant, driven us in a different direction. yet warmly affectionate. At the same time, his questions What I admire most about him is his dug deeper and belied his concerns - education of the intelligence reflected in his analysis of young, for the future of Singapore. And the unyielding situations, political and administrative. conviction to be, at least, bilingual. He had the ability to do what was Just like our Peranakan forefathers, LKY emphasized necessary to meet his goals. Sometimes the cost could be high but as a leader the significance of having the ability to communicate with he knew the buck stopped with him. For the West and East. He spared no effort to impress upon that I respected him even when I did the younger generation the importance of being a bridge not always agree with him. between two worlds. He had the foresight and moulded – Dr Jenny Lee Soon, retired public Singapore to exemplify the best of both worlds.” health professional

14 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 It was sometime in the 1980s when LKY was flying out of Singapore. The aircraft had an engine snag. He was an exceptional LKY had to wait in the VIP room instead of going straight individual. One of a kind. As into the aircraft as usual. I gave him the facts and updated a Peranakan I would like to him continually during the 20-minute delay. He accepted believe the cultural environment it and did not make a fuss. It struck me that if you did of his upbringing had a lot your work well, there was nothing to be fearful of him. to do with what he became. – Sally Chan, then-Chief of Passenger Relations, Singapore Airlines Naturally the community is proud to claim him as our most My parents have always described LKY as a great outstanding Peranakan. He man, a great leader of Singapore. And I grew up (I was was certainly not perfect, and I 11 years old in 1965) listening to his fiery speeches. think he stayed in politics far too I was in awe of him. It’s because he was tough on everyone that we became so disciplined, so self reliant long for Singapore’s good, but and so successful. Singapore is what it is because Knowing that he was a Peranakan struck me of him and his team of national with nostalgia. I realized that LKY must have relished pioneers, many of who were also his mother’s sambal dishes. She would probably be Peranakan. calling out in Baba Malay to come get some kueh she – Peter Lee, independent scholar and just finished steaming, and he would be replying in honorary curator of the NUS Baba House our patois! – Mrs Yvonne Khoo, a nyonya who grew up in Singapore

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Tan Tock Seng..

Oei Tiong Ham.

Low Kway Song and wife.

16 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 gloriousWe join the Peranakan Museum in celebrating our relivesmarkable pioneers – here’s a selection from 50 lives

b. ­– born d. – died 8 Tan Jiak Kim (Singapore b.1859–1917d. Singapore) Tan Jiak Kim was the grandson of pioneering philanthropist Tan Kim Seng. He joined Kim Seng & Company and served on the Straits Legislative Council, the Municipal Commission and the Chinese Advisory Board. In 1900, he founded the Straits Chinese British Association (now known as The Peranakan Association Singapore) and served as its first president. A strong ally of the British, Tan helped to organize the Straits Chinese volunteer division and generously donated to the British military. He attended the coronation of King George V in 1911 as a representative of the Straits Settlements. In 1912, he was made Companion of the Order of St Michael and St George. Tan was also a strong supporter of education. He contributed $12,000 to help start a medical school in Singapore.

Tan Tock Seng (Malacca b.1798–1850d. Singapore) Born in Malacca, Tan Tock Seng arrived in Singapore in 1819, the year it was established by the British. He began as a produce seller before building his fortune as a land owner. Tan was a leader of the Hokkien community in Singapore and, in 1839, led the establishment of the Thian Hock Keng (Temple of Heavenly Blessings), the oldest Chinese temple in Singapore. In honour of his public service, Tan became the first Asian Justice of the Peace. He is most remembered as the founder of Singapore’s first hospital for poor Chinese, contributing $7,000 at the request of Governor William Butterworth. The hospital was re-named in his honour in 1850.

Oei Tiong Ham (Semarang, Java b.1866 –1924d. Singapore) Oei Tiong Ham took over the running of his Tan Jiak Kim. father’s company Kian Gwan and expanded it into Low Kway Song the Oei Tiong Ham Concern. The conglomerate (Singapore b.1889–1982d. Singapore) had a diverse portfolio, though much of its profits Low Kway Song was a self-taught artist who was in the 1890s came from the opium trade. Oei later known for his portraits of prominent members of acquired a number of sugar cane plantations and society in Singapore and Malaya. As a member of the mills, and by 1900, his company was the leading Singapore Amateur Drawing Society, he organized sugar producer in the Dutch East Indies. In 1920, and participated in exhibitions in Singapore and Oei moved from Semarang to Singapore. His Malaya. He was also a cartoonist for the Eastern charitable contributions included $150,000 to Illustrated Review. He was reportedly the first Raffles College, and in 1910 he donated the land Singapore artist to receive a four-figure sum for a for the building of Tao Nan School. commission, the portrait of Oei Tiong Ham in 1927.

17 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature

Lee Choo Neo (Singapore b.1895–1947d. Singapore) Lee Choo Neo was the first female physician in Singapore. She was notable for breaking away from the traditional domestic roles of Peranakan women at the time. Educated at the Singapore Chinese Girls’ School and Raffles Girls’ School, she was the first Straits Chinese woman to obtain a Senior Cambridge Certificate in 1911. She would go on to study medicine at the King Edward VII Medical School in Singapore and opened her own clinic in 1930. Lee also took a keen interest in Malay drama, and in 1912 she wrote, co-directed, and acted in the three-part comedy Mustapha, presented at a Red Cross benefit in Victoria Theatre. Together with other prominent Peranakan women of the day, Lee co-founded the Chinese Ladies’ Association (now known as the Chinese Women’s Association).

Tan Chin Tuan (Singapore b.1908 –2005d. Singapore) Tan Chin Tuan was a notable banker, taking on important leadership roles at the Overseas-Chinese Banking Corporation, which was an amalgamation of Chinese Commercial Bank, Ho Hong Bank and Oversea-Chinese Bank. Tan was responsible for developing OCBC’s successful strategy of blue-chip investments during periods of economic uncertainty. As a public figure, Tan worked closely with the British government for gradual self-government, served as Municipal Councillor in 1939, and was appointed to the Advisory Council of the British Military Administration in 1945.

Dr Lee Choo Neo. Mrs Seow Peck Leng, née Iris Chua Seng Kim Low was also a founding member of the Merrilads (Singapore b.1911– 2007d. Singapore) Musical and Dramatic Association, a popular Iris Chua (Mrs Seow Peck Leng) was the Peranakan performing arts group started in 1923. country’s first female opposition member of the Song Ong Siang Legislative Assembly, serving one term from 1959 (Singapore b.1871–1941d.Singapore) to 1963. She also founded the Siglap Girls Club (now known as the Singapore Women’s Association) Song Ong Siang was the first Straits Chinese to help underprivileged girls, and served as its from Malaya to receive a British knighthood (1936) president for 37 years. Mrs Seow was educated at and was committed to reformation within the Singapore Chinese Girls’ School and Raffles Girls’ Chinese community in the Straits. He was the School, and was a teacher and principal for a great second Queen’s Scholar from Singapore, studying many years. She represented the Mountbatten law in Cambridge. Song was a member of the Straits constituency for the Singapore People’s Alliance Legislative Council and represented the colony at (SPA) and in her time there, proposed legislation Edward VII’s coronation in 1902. In 1894, he started to outlaw polygamous marriages. This eventually the first romanized Malay newspaper in Singapore, led to the passing of the Women’s Charter in 1961. Bintang Timor, which lasted only one year. Together In 1965, she retired from politics to concentrate on with fellow Peranakan Lim Boon Keng, Song social work. was responsible for several progressive projects, particularly the Straits Chinese Magazine and the Singapore Chinese Girls’ School. One of his most Text for this article is derived from the catalogue of ambitious publications was One Hundred Years’ Great Peranakans: 50 Remarkable Lives – an ongoing History of the Chinese in Singapore, a detailed exhibition at the Peranakan Museum. See page 56, survey of Chinese life in Singapore and a key source The Peranakan Guide. for researchers today.

18 | ISSUE 14 • 20152014 Tan Chin Tuan.

Song Ong Siang.

Iris Chua Seng Kim (Mrs Seow Peck Leng).

19 | ISSUE 14 • 20152014 f eature

To mark Singapore’s jubilee in our own way, The Peranakan magazine identified 50 things that embody our multi-hued culture. We came up with a veritable feast for the five senses.N yonya Linda Chee mulls over our choice picks Things Quintessentially Peranakan

the taste of ambrosia With so many naysayers out there, choosing just ten of the most iconic Peranakan foods is like opting to walk on a bed of nails! We closed our eyes and vouched for our favourite dishes here.

Babi pongteh. Photo by Colin Chee Photo by

Ayam buah keluak.

Ayam buah keluak 1 This is a classic Peranakan dish that is so sedap! (delicious!). The first spoonful hits your palate all at once – spicy, salty, tart, slightly sweet and umami. Every family claims to have the best recipe. Some say the original dish had pork ribs and not chicken, as Peranakans ate mostly pork. Perhaps it first appeared in , where we get most of our nuts from, and later became popular in Malacca when Javanese Peranakans married into Malacca families. An anthropological study would be most valuable. Photo and dish by Keith and Melinda Chee Keith Photo and dish by

20 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 . Bakwan kepiting. Photo by Colin Chee Photo by Photo by Raymond Wong Raymond Photo by

Babi pongteh (stewed pork with gravy) 2 Belly pork, potatoes, bamboo shoots and black mushrooms are cooked with a sauté of fermented taucheo (soyabean) and garlic to create a full-bodied . Some families add chicken. The gravy can be soupy or thick and dark, almost like a sauce. The best way to eat pongteh is to tear a green chilli into it and stir a touch of sambal belachan into the gravy. Chelop (dip) a slice of crusty French loaf and pop the gravy-soaked morsel into Tan Clement Photo and dish by your mouth. Heavenly!

Popiah (spring rolls) 3 No other dish compares with popiah for community bonding. The whole of Malacca and Singapore comes together to help out with the peeling, slicing, chopping, Pong tauhu. frying…preparing from morning till evening for days, before we come together for just as many days to break the eating record– lu makan berapa biji? (how many did Itek tim (braised duck soup) you eat?) The Peranakans are unique in using crepe-like 6 My father just loves itek tim served with generous kulit telor (egg skin wraps). Except for my family and lashings of brandy (the anglophile touch), torn green our close relatives, I have not seen anyone else serving chilli (local) and freshly squeezed lemo kasturi (Malay). popiah with home-made buay cheo, a sweet sauce made This is a robust duck and pork trotter soup which the from flour, gula Melaka and dark soya sauce. Teochews call kiam chye ark (salted vegetable duck) and add serngboey (preserved plum) for tartness. We Bakwan kepiting (crab meat ball soup) Peranakans have been clever 4 If small flower crabs (kepiting lenjong) are used, their to add assam poey (tamarind red shells are a pretty sight floating in this wholesome, skin) and belimbing yet delicate soup. It was always a treat when I was a for the extra tang. Colin Chee Photo by child when my mother would serve this dish on festive occasions. The day before, my two brothers and I would be at the dining table, busily shelling freshly-steamed crabs and in between, stealing a morsel or two of the sweet, white flesh. We helped to mix the minced pork with the crabmeat, stuffing half the amount into the crab shells and shaping the remaining half into balls. Such are the delicious memories shared by siblings.

Pong tauhu (tofu ball soup) 5 Pong tauhu is said to be the everyday, more economical, variation of the bakwan kepiting. Malacca nyonyas sometimes call this tepong tauhu. Mashed tauhu (firm tofu) and minced pork or prawns are mixed and shaped into balls and cooked in a soup made with sautéed taucheo and garlic. Belly pork (samchien bak) strips are added to enrich the soup. My family uses fresh fish paste instead of pork – it is a healthier and no less enjoyable variation that I have been enjoying since childhood. Itek Tim.

21 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature Photo by Colin Chee Photo by

Hati babi bungkus. Photo by Linda Chee Photo by

Chap chye.

Chap chye (mixed vegetable stew) Olivia Xu Lin Photo and dish by 7 After the heavy feasting on Chinese New Year’s eve, chap chye is our comfort food the morning after, for overworked tummies. The very economical cabbage is the dominant ingredient in what was originally a Hokkien stew. Chap chye uses many dried foods such as black mushrooms, bok jee (wood ears), kim chiam (lily buds), taukee (soya bean sticks) and sometimes tanghoon (glass noodles). Nyonyas cook it Sambal jantong pisang. with sautéed taucheo and garlic, adding prawns, belly pork and fish balls.

Hati babi bungkus (wrapped pig’s liver) 8 My Makmak’s (maternal grandmother) hati babi bungkus was the best. No one made it like she did. She had a secret recipe for rempah panas (spice powder) that elevated her hati babi to ambrosial heaven. This cute little old lady who smoked and drank brandy until her late 80s also made the best tapeh (sweet glutinous wine). Once a year I Linda Chee Photo by Rumah Bebe. Dish by would spend the whole afternoon with Makmak in the kitchen to chop pork and dice pig liver, wrap the mixture into ‘pingpong’ balls with pang sek eu (pig’s caul), then steam and fry them into cholesterol-filled wonders - a heart patient’s nightmare!

Sambal jantong pisang (banana ‘heart’ salad) 9 Peranakans are practical and make good use of what comes from the garden, like jantong pisang - actually the banana flowers found beneath the bract of the whole inflorescence that constitutes a giant banana bud. The jantong is steamed and tossed with a gamut of ingredients including sambal belachan, lime, cucumber, belimbing, serondeng (toasted shredded Nasi . coconut), fried garlic and shallots, prawns and sliced red chillies. Finally, a luxurious topping of coconut seven or eight herbs. They include daon kunyit cream. The poor man’s version is sambal timun ( leaf), daon lemo perot (kaffir lime leaf), serai (cucumber salad). (lemongrass), bunga kantan (torch ginger bud), timun (cucumber), kachang botol (wing beans) and kachang (rice with raw vegetables) panjang (long beans). Nasi ulam is adapted from a 10 The seriously classical nasi ulam is reputed Malay dish. White rice is spiced with sambal belachan to contain 17 different kinds of fresh aromatic and tossed with the herbs. Flaked fish - chencharu, herbs according to a Malacca Peranakan lady, but selar or parang - is usually included. Prawns are also in Singapore terms it is usual to muster only about sometimes added. Meats are absent.

22 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 colourful insights Peranakan culture is renowned for its rich palette of colours, textures and extravagant finishes. Photo by Angeline Kong Photo by Courtesy of Main Wayang Courtesy of Main

Kasot manek. Photo by Linda Chee. Kasot from Rumah Bebe Linda Chee. Photo by

Sarong kebaya.

Batik. Sarong kebaya 11 To the uninitiated, by fine needles looping tiny wrapping the sarong and pinning faceted glass beads onto the kerosang (brooches) onto the canvas or cotton fabric. kebaya is a notoriously sweaty The colours are jewel-like. challenge. Tips from inexpert The motifs can range from users: Wrap the sarong around traditional, like flowers, and create two or three deep to unconventional like Tali pinggang. pleats at the inner end or the Mickey Mouse. fit will not enable you to walk comfortably. Hold your breath and ow. y L tie an old nylon stocking around oll M of your waist if you are not confident y es rt that the sarong will hold up. u o Then secure tightly with the tali C pinggang (silver belt). Secure your Photo by Linda Chee kebaya front with three large baby safety pins before replacing each one with a kerosang. Practice The size of a bibik’s gold kerosang makes perfect. was an indicator of the family wealth and status. The bigger and Batiks the more embellished with intan 12 The best batiks are known (unfaceted diamonds) - sampay to originate from Indonesia. The mata buta! (blinding!) - the higher colours and motifs distinguish up the ranking. the specific village they come from and even the master batikmaker Tali pinggang who designed it. Many books have 15 The tali pinggang (chain- been written about batiks. The link silver belt) has intricate latest is Peter Lee’s tome, Sarong patterns that are totally concealed Kebaya (see page 46). Indeed Kerosang when worn under the baju serong. batiks have a fascinating history! panjang. But with the more revealing kebaya, the buckle peeps Kasot manek Kerosang out at the waist, continuing from 13 Come to the east coast and 14 In the old days, the the kerosang the ostentatious visit Rumah Bebe or Rumah Kim nyonya’s baju banjang, like that display of ornamentation. Once in Choo. You will see students of all of my great grand-aunt Tan Geok a while you may spot an outsized ages and races learning to stitch Kim Neo (above), had no butang gold buckle and wickedly wonder kasot manek (beaded slippers). (buttons) and was fastened by if the nyonya had benefitted from Intricate patterns are brought to life three kerosang serong (brooches). an unknown inheritance.

23 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature

e Che Linda y to b Pho

Nyonyaware.

Nyonyaware Gone are the days when 16 Weddings. hard-pressed Peranakan families and Belinda Quah Courtesy of Roy sold their inheritance in baskets to the karang guni man. Good pieces silicate and calcium carbonate. of original Peranakan porcelain My Makmak used to plaster her are hard to come by these days. face white with a layer of bedak Prices have reached exorbitant and then clean off the excess with levels for rare artifacts. Kamchengs, a handkerchief until her skin chanaps, plates, cups, vases… showed a fresh, pink glow. I use it reproductions are being made in to clean my silver jewellery. China to meet popular demand. The tarnish comes off instantly, Some are of very high quality. like magic!

Gelai tutop Weddings 17 In the old days, gelai tutop 19 Elaborate 12-day (glass bell jars) enclosing glittery wedding celebrations to signify metallic tinsel and figurines wealth and status are a thing of were popular among well- the past in our chepat chepat (fast- heeled anglophile Peranakans. paced) lifestyle. Where can you They purchased or made these find the elaborate sedan chairs ornaments for the bridal chamber. and bearers these days? However, Inside the glass are English Peranakan-themed weddings or Chinese figures of animals, with the couple in traditional flowers, fruits and foliage arranged costume are in vogue as babas Shophouses. in a whimsical manner. Gelai and nyonyas become aware of Linda Chee Photo by tutop are still collected although their heritage. The simplified Shophouses they are rarely seen in Peranakan celebration usually lasts not more 20 Different cultural homes these days. than three days. influences merge in the ornate architecture of over 6,000 conserved Bedak sejok shophouses (tiam chu in Hokkien) 1 8 This square box and residential terrace houses of bedak sejok (literally, (pai chu) seen in certain parts of cold powder) with a Singapore. Popularly associated fair skinned beauty with the Peranakans, many were on the lid has been also lived in by other ethnic groups in production since such as the Arabs, Banjar and the late 19th century. Chettiars. These houses typically It is still produced in feature high ceilings, airwells and Tangerang, Indonesia, wooden upper floors as ‘cooling’ using magnesium Bedak sejok. buffers against our tropical climate.

24 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 udang geragau, belachan should be roasted or dried in the sun before use. But beware of upsetting your neighbours. The bau amis (stink) spreads for miles.

P

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t o Chinchalok

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o 24

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e enhancer. My father could polish e off a couple of deep-fried ikan chencharu sumbat chilli bawang puteh (stuffed with chilli paste and garlic) and plenty of white rice when he had his chinchalok served with sliced shallots, red chillies and lime juice. Some Peranakans spike this concoction of fermented Bunga rampay. udang geragau, dry cooked rice and salt with brandy. Lagi shiok!

Pho to b y O ng J in T eo n the fragrance of home g Did someone mention that Babas like to kentut (break wind) around the house? From the pungent to the sweet-smelling, our culture takes the prime position.

Bunga rampay (potpourri) (torch ginger bud), daon kesom 21 The bunga rampay comes ( leaf), daon kemangi (basil from a Malay custom. Peranakans leaf), daon kunyit (turmeric leaf) like to have bunga rampay as a and daon salam (bay leaf) for Belachan. traditional touch at weddings and , and nasi ulam. other festive occasions or in the Just a few sprigs of any herb room for a nice fragrance. when steaming white rice would It is essentially a potpourri be divine! of many wangi (sweet-smelling) materials. These include shredded Belachan pandan (screwpine) leaves and 2 3 Aiyee, kusmangat, flowers such as jasmine, rose and lu nyonya tak tau makan chempaka, additionally scented sambal belachan? (you with perfume, patchouli being are a nyonya but don’t a popular fragrance. eat sambal belachan?) Shredded lemo perot Aunties and uncles (kaffir lime) rind lends look in mock horror at a fresh, citrusy smell. my niece for not being true to her heritage. Aromatic Indeed, Peranakans 22 herbs from Malacca or Penang Peranakans use plenty also fiercely dispute the of herbs to produce merits of their hometown complex flavours in belachan, a.k.a. Peranakan their foods. Imagine ‘cheese’. Made from plucking fresh from your fermenting crustaceans or herb garden daon lemo perot (kaffir lime), bunga kantan Chinchalok.

Bunga kantan. Colin Chee Photo by

25 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature a touch of dexterity The babas and nyonyas have Sambal a certain deftness of hand, petai. whether it be in gambling, Brylcreem embroidery, or reining in the 28 For that all-day shine and hold, use Brylcreem! Sounds recalcitrant young. Tumis rempah. Photo by Ong Jin Teong Ong Jin Photo by familiar? This clean-smelling old- school grooming pomade gave Tumis rempah (stir-frying virile, young Babas visions of 2 5 the spice paste) achieving the desired silver screen Rempah to the Peranakans is like Clark Gable hairstyle. Remember pesto to the Italians, only more your father and uncles in their potent. The strong aroma of the high-waisted long pants and rempah frying in hot oil never fails starched white shirts with rolled- to make me sneeze. A good nyonya up sleeves? They slicked on sticky cook is discerned by the way she pomade until not a hair was out uses the ladle to tumis (stir fry) of place. Then after a shower, wet rempah. A sizzle must be heard hair towel-rubbed, they would look when the rempah mentah (raw) is electrified! poured into the kuali, instantly absorbing the oil. The rempah is just English lavender talcum about ready when it pechah minyak 29 powder (throws out the oil, that is, when Both my nyonya mother and the oil exudes to the surface). She mother-in-law insisted on using only knows when the rempah is ready by Yardley talc and soap by Yardley Cherki cards. the garing (crispy) smell when the of London in their younger days. fragrance rises. Women of their generation loved Cherki the refinement of English-made 31 Cherki was so popular for Sambal petai toiletries. gambling that the British colonial 26 Kentot busok, kenching government outlawed the game at the kuning (smelly fart, yellow pee) aptly Joss sticks turn of the 20th century. Many bibiks describes the potency of these bright 3 0 These bring back delightful were cherki addicts who neglected green almond-sized antioxidants also memories for me when children their families. They pawned jewellery known as stink beans. Peranakans could stay up late on the ninth day and lost small fortunes. Those caught love their petai raw or tossed into of the Lunar New Year to pai Ti gambling were hauled to jail in Black a rich sambal gravy to be eaten Kong seh (pray to the Jade Maria vans - a sight that inspired with plenty of rice. Emperor on the deity’s the hugely successful 2002 theatre birthday). The altar table set production Bibiks Behind Bars (see 4711 Eau de up in our garage would be page 6). Cherki was modified by the 2 7 Cologne laden with colourful fruits Peranakans from an old Chinese My 87-year old father used to and Peranakan food served leaf game known as daun cherki. The splash this German-made in even more colourful cards have many Hokkien and Baba “water from Cologne” nyonyaware. The Malay words. on his face and sandalwood joss neck, every morning sticks emanated a Chongkak before work and every woody fragrance 32 Growing up in 1960s evening before dinner. throughout Singapore, our cousins would A throwback to British the house, later converge in our house – a large colonial times, it was overpowered by the bungalow in a rubber estate - during one of the imported- metallic smell of the holidays. The mothers cooked from-England toiletries firecrackers that were and fathers enjoyed a tipple. The popular among anglophile joyfully set off. children played endless games. We Babas for its fresh, cooling became ninjas (remember Shintaro?) fragrance. 4711 Eau de darting around the rubber trees, Cologne. 26 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 Photo by Heath Yeo Heath Photo by Photo by Neezhom Photographic Photo by

Chongkak. Sulam. Polished blackwood furniture.

set of raw granite ‘appliances’ Sulam (embroidery) – the batu giling and batu lesong 35 I remember my mother - to grind wet spices. Today, few skillfully pedalling her treadle local households use the heavy Singer sewing machine every batu giling to grind rempah. I afternoon when I was a young have turned mine into a décor girl. As I watched over her item. But I still use the lesong to shoulder, the needle would dance crush ginger, peppercorns and effortlessly, threading exactly over salt. Somehow, the food tastes the traced sulam (embroidery) better. The unevenly crushed patterns. Colourful flowers and spices release more flavour than butterflies would come alive ingredients cut finely in a blender within the wooden hoop. Delicate or processor. net-like patterns emerged as she carefully snipped out the fabric. Polishing blackwood Like her, young nyonyas made 34 furniture their own kebayas. Sadly, that era Photo by Tan Kuning Tan Photo by When we were younger, my has passed. Working mothers like rubbed rubber seeds to ‘burn’ brothers and I had to clean our me neither inherited the passion each other, or played chongkak. blackwood living set a week or so nor the skill. Instead of glass marbles, we used before the Lunar New Year. We cowrie shells. Chongkak was a had a system. First, wrap a lightly Carving chanap flowers popular pastime among Malays damp cloth around a chopstick. 36 This is a vanishing art in and Peranakans up to the 1970s. Then poke the ‘mini-mop’ Singapore and . Happily, through every gap in the intricate young Lee Yuen Thien (below) of Batu giling and carvings to remove the dust. Give Bukit Berendam, Malacca, who is 3 3 batu lesong (granite roller a good overall wipe - your chair only all of 28 years old, has been and mortar & pestle) is clean, ready to be applied with conscientious enough to acquire In the old days, every beeswax or tung oil and polished the skill and demonstrate it to Peranakan kitchen had its own twice till glossy. others willing to learn.

Photo by Ong Jin Teong

Batu giling. Carving chanap flowers. Photo from Lee Yuen Thien Yuen Photo from Lee

27 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 f eature

Eating with fingers 37 As children, we would eat with our the sound of the fingers at home like the Malays. Forks and spoons were reserved for special occasions when nyonya Baba David Neo’s we had guests. The correct etiquette is to put the love of patois rings deep in his thoughts. food at the tips of the fingers and push it towards Bantering from Kuala Lumpur… the mouth daintily. Simply putting the food into the whole of the hand and stuffing it into the Patois or Baba Malay mouth is not considered halus (refined). 41 After living two and a half decades abroad, my ear aches to hear Baba Malay! It was great to converse in patois Siseh with lain orang embok-embok when I was helping to start 38 rambot, the Peranakan Association of Australia (PAA) in Melbourne chochok sanggol some years ago. Now that I am based in Kuala Lumpur, and (combs and hairpins) Malacca being just two hours away, speaking patois never Bibiks used to comb fails to liven me up. It makes me feel so at home. their hair back so tightly over their scalps Accents (Baba Malay versus Bahasa Malay) until their hairlines 4 2 Dengair baik-baik yeh (listen carefully): Learning receded. The sanggol Bahasa Malay in school, I came home and asked my (chignon) was the grandmother, “Mama, mana pisau (where is the knife)?” crowning glory of every She responded swiftly: “Pisau…lu apa? Anak Melayu, yeh?” bibik. Never attempt (“What are you? Son of a Malay?”) At my cousin’s Malay to touch a bibik’s class, her che’gu (teacher) wrote on the board: ULAR (snake hair – she has spent in Bahasa Malay) and pronounced it; my cousin raised her much time gelling it. I hand and said, “salah, Che’gu. Ulair…” remember my paternal grandmother, Chee Melatah and charok Kim Puay Neo (left), 4 3 (exclamations, usually of vulgarities poked three large gilt when startled, and swearing) hairpins into her tiny As a little boy, greying chignon. I used to creep up behind my Paper folding grandmother 39 Peranakan women recycled their cherki with a blown cards after these became worn out from frequent up bag and pop play. When they were not gambling, bibiks and it just to hear nyonyas would skilfully fold the cards with Mama melatah origami-like precision to produce pretty paper and charok, which lanterns, flowers and animals to present to their a well brought friends. up, bertapi-tapi (refined) Baba Rotan (the cane) such as I daren’t 40 Siap pantat! (Prepare your butt!) – repeat! But gone Every baba remembers mother’s lethal weapon are the days when from their boyhood days. From experience, the one would have a thinnest rotan produces the deadliest whack good chuckle over (rembat or sebat). TPAS president Peter Wee, now the unabashed in his 70s, admits being caned for disobedience. bibiks’ brazen charok-charok banter — it still tickles me TPAS first vice-president Alan Koh, 61, laughs when they come to mind! over his many canings – “I was quite naughty”. Richard Tan, 60, creative director of Main The nyonya’s sharp wit and tongue Wayang, vividly remembers the rotan was always 44 It used to irk me when I could not find something “gantong kat blakang pintu dapor” (hung behind and asking my mother, her response would be: “lu charek the kitchen door)…on standby!” Kuala Lumpur barang pakay mata ka pakay mulot (do you look with your Peranakan association president Cedric Tan, who eyes or your mouth)?” Her (and the nyonyas’) wicked turns 50 in June, says of the merah merah or ‘red’ sarcasm and wit are what I miss terribly these days. I still stripes on his legs: “Depending on the crowd…it vividly remember her critical comment of a newsreader was shameful with the girls and relatives or cool on television: “Tengok mulot dia macham geledak abis idung with your schoolmates.” dia pesak sekali!” (Look at how wide her mouth and flat her

28 | ISSUE 1 • 2015 nose is!” This exclamation gets lost in translation). Or, Cherita dulu her remark of the mother of my sister’s ex-boyfriend 47 kala (stories singing in church: “Dengair mak dia nyanyi macham from the olden days) itek gila (His mother sings like a crazy duck)!” Sam Pek Eng Tai (Butterfly Lovers) Tumbok lesong and the Sam Kok 4 5 (pounding of the mortar and pestle) (Romance of the Three I used to hear and read that Kingdoms) were two nyonyas of old could great Chinese classics gauge your culinary that were translated skills by just listening into Baba Malay and g n o to how one tumbok became very popular. e

T n lesong. I could not i Sam Pek Eng Tai is J g comprehend this n the tragic folktale

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b about star-crossed

o t

o a non-Peranakan lovers who became h

P Chinese (whom united as butterflies we referred to as only in their afterlife. Cheena gerk) tumbok It was beautifully adapted for the stage by the late lesong! Now I know playwright Felix Chia in the 1980s. — betol tak ada (there is no) rhythm mia! Keronchong 48 What is more soothing Chinchang sama iris alus-alus (chopping and lembut (directly translated 46 and slicing finely) as ‘soft’, an If you grew up in an extended Peranakan family, aesthetic valued you would be used to the hustle and bustle in the by the Malays and kitchen. It was always heartwarming to be involved Peranakans that in the communal cooking at Botan House (my captures agility mother’s rumah abu, or ancestral home on Neil Road, and form) than mentioned in Lee Kip Lin’s The Singapore House pp. lagu-lagu (tunes 172-173). But my Ee (maternal aunty) begged to differ, of) keronchong, remembering the melodrama she often witnessed: which used to lull “The nyonyas are full of colour… they will laugh and me to sleep. In cry in the kitchen!” Laugh and cry in the kitchen we vogue from the did. As children it was horror to our ears when my 1920s through 1960s, this genre of music originated mother decided to masak poh pia sama chia satu dunia in Indonesia and till today is much loved by the (cook popiah and invite the whole world)! The next Peranakans. three days entailed endless chopping and slicing for the rempah popiah (filling) that would fill a periok satu Panton (poems) budak kechik boleh masok (the huge aluminium pot 49 I miss Kong Cho’s (great grandfather’s) grand that could fit a little child)! There goes our playtime… birthday and ronggeng (dancing) parties at Botan Even my blind Dad was recruited to persiang taugeh House when Mama would always sing the dondang (pluck the roots off the beansprouts)! sayang and engage in repartee with clever verses in panton… She had a book of panton that she would faithfully consult to keep her mind sharp.

Ramay-ramay, laojiat-laojiat (gather 5 0 together and make merry — again, somewhat lost in translation)

Photo by Ong Jin Teong Ong Jin Photo by For me, the greatest thing about being Peranakan is the hospitality. To ramay-ramay, laojiat-laojiat at the slightest excuse is what we live for, especially having grown up with Kong Cho’s (great grandfather’s) lavish parties… I can’t afford to throw such costly parties but I find every excuse to masak (cook) and chia orang makan (invite people for a meal) so that we can ramay-ramay, laojiat-laojiat sama makan sampay gila Chinchang sama iris alus-alus. (and eat like mad)!

29 | ISSUE 1 • 2015