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Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009 Textile Society of America

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Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009 Textile Society of America University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Fall 2009 Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009" (2009). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 56. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/56 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. T VOLUME 21 NUMBER 3 FALL, 2009 S A Conservation of Three Hawaiian Feather Cloaks by Elizabeth Nunan and Aimée Ducey CONTENTS ACRED GARMENTS ONCE to fully support the cloaks and and the feathers determined the worn by the male mem- provide a culturally appropriate scope of the treatment. 1 Conservation of Three Hawaiian bers of the Hawaiian ali’i, display. The museum plans to The Chapman cloak is Feather Cloaks S or chiefs, feather cloaks and stabilize the entire collection in thought to be the oldest in the 2 Symposium 2010: Activities and capes serve today as iconic order to alternate the exhibition collection, dating to the mid-18th Exhibitions symbols of Hawaiian culture. of the cloaks, therefore shorten- century, and it is also the most 3 From the President During the summer of 2007 ing the display period of any deteriorated. Believed to have 4 TSA News the Bishop Museum, Honolulu, individual cloak. been taken to Calcutta, India, HI, under the supervision of its The cloaks are made of in 1826, it was purchased for 5 TSA Member News conservator, Valerie Free, com- netted olona cordage, a bast fiber the Bishop Museum collection 8 Collections News, Conference menced a project to stabilize shrub endemic to the Hawaiian in 1937. The cape’s voyages Reviews the cloaks so that they could be Islands that forms a flexible sup- undoubtedly played a part in the 10 Book Reviews safely exhibited in the museum. port to which feather bundles poor condition of its feather sur- 13 Exhibition Reviews This project was funded by are attached. The netting is face, which is bare in places and a grant from the Institute of often made of multiple sections very soiled. However the fiber 14 Conservation continued Museum and Library Services. stitched together to form the netting, which is the most finely 16 Calendar-Exhibitions Over the course of the sum- whole. The fragility of this netting gauged of any of the cloaks at 18 Calendar-Lectures, Workshops, mer three of the twelve cloaks the museum, is in very good Tours in the museum’s collection to p. 14 19 Calendar-Conferences & were treated: the “Chapman” Symposia, Calls for Papers cloak, the “Joy” cloak, and the smaller “Joy” cape. The museum completed a conservation sur- vey documenting the condition of the cloaks before treatment. THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA, Because exhibition requires fre- INC. PROVIDES AN INTERNATIONAL quent handling and manipulation FORUM FOR THE EXCHANGE of these large and fragile textiles, AND DISSEMINATION OF the main purpose of treatment INFORMATION ABOUT was to stabilize the existing dam- TEXTILES WORLDWIDE, ages in the cloaks, primarily in FROM ARTISTIC, CULTURAL, the form of tears and loss of ECONOMIC, HISTORIC, feathers. In addition to stabilizing POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND preexisting damage, the museum TECHNICAL PERSPECTIVES. designed a new mounting system The Chapman cloak before conservation, courtesy of the Bishop Museum, Honolulu, HI. TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Activities and Exhibitions OFFICERS Textiles and Settlement: From Plains Space to Cyber Space! PRESIDENT Patricia Hickman TSA 12th Biennial Symposium—Lincoln, Nebraska TEL 845/947-8735 [email protected] October 6-9, 2010 VICE PRESIDENT Ruth Scheuing TEL 604/254-6322 HE TSA SYMPOSIUM PLANNING A long history of quilting Explorer received the Bronze [email protected] T Committee is hard at work exists in the Sindh region of Award in the Online Presence TREASURER organizing a variety of exhibitions, southeastern Pakistan and across category of the 2009 American Mary Masilamani the border into northwestern TEL/FAX 973/538-2705 tours and workshops for TSA Association of Museum MUSE [email protected] members to experience when India. Patchwork, embroi- Awards. Try it out in advance by RECORDING SECRETARY they visit the Great Plains next dery, and appliqué all figure visiting the IQSC website at Roxane Shaughnessy October, one of the most beau- prominently in ralli—a traditional http://www.quiltstudy.org. TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 tiful times of the year. A very quilted textile of the region. The The International Quilt Study [email protected] special opening reception will be ralli are used for a variety of Center & Museum is dedicated DIRECTOR OF INTERNAL RELATIONS Mary Anne Jordan purposes, such as bedcoverings, to collecting, preserving, study- held in the stunning new home TEL 785/864-3919 for the International Quilt Study temporary walls, prayer rugs, ing, exhibiting, and promoting [email protected] Center & Museum. The Center’s cushions, and storage bags. In discovery of quilts and quiltmak- DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIONS new facility was designed by the the eastern Indian states of Bihar ing traditions from many cultures, Janice Lessman-Moss and West Bengal and across the countries, and times. Its academic TEL 330/672-2158 FAX 330/672-4729 internationally renowned Robert [email protected] M. Stern Architects of New York. border into Bangladesh, women home is within the Department The 37,000 square foot building create kantha and sujuni bed of Textiles, Clothing and Design PAST PRESIDENT Carol Bier coverings using running stitches at the University of Nebraska- houses the world’s largest public TEL 510/849-2478 collection of more than 3,000 as the primary decorative ele- Lincoln. The new facility for [email protected] quilts dating from the early 1700s ments. Serving as both quilting the International Quilt Study DIRECTORS AT-LARGE to the present from more than and embroidery, the stitches Center & Museum was funded Joanne B. Eicher 24 countries. The Reception Hall, holding the layers together can entirely by private gifts, including TEL 651/645-2914 with its curtain wall of glass, will be applied in simple geometric a leadership gift from the Robert [email protected] be the setting for the opening patterns or in complex figural and Ardis James Foundation of Barbara Shapiro TEL 415/882-7401 night reception. designs depicting local stories Chappaqua, New York. The envi- [email protected] or East Indian flora and fauna. ronmentally responsible building The galleries will be open Fran Dorsey that evening exclusively for TSA Constructed from layers of old received Silver-level certifica- TEL 902-494-8208 FAX 902/425-2420 members to explore. On view cotton sari and dhoti (women’s tion in the U. S. Green Building [email protected] will be quilts from South Asia. and men’s wrapped garments), Council’s Leadership in Energy Sumru Belger Krody “South Asian Seams: Quilts from kantha provide a way for women and Environmental Design TEL 202/667-0441 ext. 37 FAX 202/483-0994 India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh” to give new life to old cloth. [LEED] program, the nation’s [email protected] curated by Patricia Stoddard, TSA members will also be benchmark for high performance Matilda McQuaid author of Ralli Quilts: Traditional able to enjoy a variety of interac- green buildings. TEL 212/849-8451 Textiles of Pakistan and India tive digital experiences on Quilt [email protected] (Schiller Publishing, 2003). The Explorer in the Museum’s Virtual – Patricia Cox Crews Elena Phipps Gallery that evening. Quilt TEL 212/349-4485 exhibition will consist of more [email protected] than 30 examples of ralli and TASK REPRESENTATIVES kantha. It will also feature TSA WEBSITE a rich assortment of large- Susan Gunter, [email protected] scale photographs TSA LISTSERVE depicting the lives of Laura Strand, [email protected] the women who make TSA NEWSLETTER these quilts. Karen Searle, [email protected] 2009 SHEP AWARD CHAIR Barbara Sloan, [email protected] TSA WEBSITE INFORMATION COORDINATOR Amy Scarborough, amyscarborough @gmail.com The International Quilt TSA SYMPOSIUM 2010 CO-CHAIRS Study Center & Museum at Diane Vigna, [email protected] the University of Nebraska- Wendy Weiss, [email protected] Lincoln—the setting for the SYMPOSIUM PROCEEDINGS EDITOR opening night reception for Ann Svenson Perlman, the 2010 Symposium. [email protected] 2 TSA NEWSLETTER University of Nebraska campus. Publications and Website maximum of 20%, a respectable Librarian Mary Ellen Ducey will achievement, considering the Since our March Board meet- generously assist us in organizing 37% drop in the S&P 500 Index. ing, the Publications Committee F T these materials, which document According to the Maryland under Sumru Krody’s leadership the history of TSA. Association for Nonprofit has accomplished the following P Organizations (MANO), our cash goals: We now have a members- Symposium 2010 reserves exceed their recommen- only section of the website, a In addition to reading Pat dations. Last year 80% of TSA’s web-based Newsletter, a web- Crews’s article in this Newsletter expenses were program-related based Membership Directory, and about the welcoming reception and 20% were for manage- a web-based Bibliography! Watch Fall Board Meeting and exhibition being planned ment and related expenses. Our for an email with the access October 2009 at the International Quilt Study spending on programs exceeds password. I am very grateful to Center & Museum, check the MANO’s recommended 75% S I WRITE THIS LETTER IN JULY, Susan Gunter, Karen Searle, TSA Website for all details level.
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