The Best of Croatia

04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 1 1 The Best of Croatia German, Austrian, and Italian travelers have been well-versed in what Croatia has to offer as a vacation destination for more than a century. Until recently, every time they poured into the country in July and August, they had Croatia’s endless beaches and clear blue sea almost all to themselves. Today, the rest of the world has opened its eyes to Croatia’s charms and miles of coastline, wealth of Roman ruins, medieval hilltop castles, and natural wonders, as well as its warm and welcoming people. This makes the crowd of summer people who swoop down on the country larger and more diverse, swelling tourism to one of the country’s biggest sources of income. Even when crowds are at their largest, it is possible to find a secluded cove or patch of beach where it seems you’re the only person on Earth. And when all the name-brand hotels are filled, there is always a room with personality waiting in a private home where the landlord welcomes you like a long-lost friend. Every town and village has at least one restaurant where the locals hang out and where the slice of life you get with your meal is the best dessert there is. In Croatia, each building has a story that adds another facet to this gem of a country, an ancient land with a rocky past that also happens to be a magnificent work in progress. This chapter is a “road map” meant to give you, the reader, an idea of highlights that await you in Croatia. All you have to do to create an unforgettable Croatian adventure is fill in the blanks and connect the dots as you make discoveries of your own. 1 The Best Travel Experiences • Listening to the Sea Organ (Zadar): shrink-wrapped in leather, but they Imagination and engineering created are a compelling sight. You won’t be this incomparable music maker, able to get up close and personal with which “broadcasts” sounds made by these relics, but you’ll get close water movement through openings in enough to recognize them as human. the organ’s pipes beneath the sea. Add The curtained-off area behind the a set of white stone steps descending altar of St. Blaise Church—where the into the water; they make a matchless light is dim, the music soulful, and venue COPYRIGHTEDon which to sit in the moon- the MATERIAL piped-in commentary a little light (or sunlight), let the water lap at exaggerated—contributes to an the your feet, and luxuriate in the organ’s atmosphere that is creepy but rivet- haunting sounds. See p. 139. ing, like watching a car wreck about • Viewing Mummies (Vodnjan): to happen. See p. 203. They are billed as the bodies of holy • Exploring the Village of Hum people who died centuries ago and (Istria): It calls itself the smallest miraculously never decomposed. town in the world, and population- They look a little like skeletons wise, it might be. But so many people 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CROATIA visit this village high in the Istrian former president Franjo Tûman or interior that it always seems crowded. the sculpture-rich arcades on either The village fathers have done a won- side of the entrance. See p. 254. derful job of restoring the buildings • Descending Into Ilocki Podrumi in town and making it tourist- (Ilok): It’s like walking down steep friendly. See p. 225. steps into a root cellar. You’ll get the • Strolling Through Mirogoj Ceme- chills in this second-oldest wine cellar tery (Zagreb): As much sculpture in Croatia from two sources: the tem- garden as it is burial ground, this perature and the history that resides 19th-century cemetery was designed in this subterranean chamber. The by Herman Bollé. It is home to Croa- cellar was looted by the Serbs during tian patriots, common folk, and peo- the Homeland War, but not before ple of all faiths and nationalities. The the owners were able to conceal bot- tombstones range from small and tles of the best vintages behind a false simple to enormous and elaborate, wall. Today those bottles are out of but each is a story in itself. Don’t miss hiding and on display along with the the black granite slab at the grave of barrels and vats used to store the win- ery’s newest vintages. See p. 311. 2 The Best Natural Wonders • Plitvice Lakes National Park butterflies live here. Perhaps the most (145km/90 miles southwest of interesting area to explore is Kornati’s Zagreb): Croatia’s best-known natural offshore underwater landscape. Its wonder, the park’s 16 crystal-clear rock formations support flourishing turquoise lakes and their countless flora and fauna. See p. 150. waterfalls, put on a great show. The • Paklenica National Park (between lakes flow into one another and tum- Zadar and Karlobag): Its raw beauty is ble over deposits of travertine, which best appreciated by hikers and nature creates waterfalls dropping a few feet lovers. Even motorists respect the or plunging as much as 64m (210 ft.). imposing Velebeit peaks because the All this beauty is set in a dense forest limestone cliffs soar above deep gorges accessed via footpaths and populated and dense vegetation that hides caves by bears and wild boar. See p. 269. bored into the rock. See p. 146. • Kornati National Park (part of the • Krka National Park (less than a half- Zadar Archipelago): Kornati’s 140 hour from Sibenik): The park was islands are really the tops of moun- formed to protect the Krka River, tains that were above sea level 20,000 which runs from its source near Knin years ago but now are mostly sub- to the sea near Sibenik. The river has merged. One side of each island con- created a series of spectacular gorges, sists of land that is rocky and lightly waterfalls, lakes, and rapids on its trip blanketed with vegetation (even a few through the mountains. The most grapevines and olive trees). The side spectacular falls are the jaw-drop- facing the sea is a sheer rock wall pingly steep Skradinski Buk and Roski known as a “crown” that plunges Slapovi. Between the two are Lake almost 76m (250 ft.) straight down Visovac and Visovac Island, home to a into the water. Sixty-nine species of Franciscan monastery. See p. 153. 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 3 THE BEST BIG LUXURY HOTELS 3 3 The Best Open-Air Markets • Dolac (Zagreb) above the main the Riva to the Silver Gate. You’ll find square at the foot of Old Town is not the usual assortment of produce here. just a place to buy fruit and veggies. You’ll also find a large variety of tex- It is a crossroads where people come tiles and some of the most persuasive to see and be seen; to trade gossip; to vendors anywhere. See p. 83. relax with a cup of coffee; and to • Bjelovar’s market is quite civilized meet friends. Early morning is the and partially covered. It is noteworthy best time to visit because that’s when as the place to which farmers from the bread is freshest, the displays the Croatia’s agricultural belt bring their prettiest, and the people the most best produce, dairy products, fish, interesting. See p. 248. and meat every day. The market is at • Pazarin (Split) is reminiscent of a its busiest from 7am to noon, but a Turkish bazaar in looks, sounds, and few vendors stay around until 6pm or smells; booths and tables line both so to catch people on their way home sides of Hrvojeva Street outside the from work. The later it gets, the lower east wall of Diocletian’s Palace from the prices go. See p. 296. 4 The Best Small Hotels & Inns • Villa Filipini (Porec): Despite its overlooking the river and riverwalk is a location a couple of miles outside vacation all by itself. See p. 268. Porec’s center and the lack of a beach • Hotel Peristil (Split): Opened once in the vicinity, the warmth of the more for business in 2005, Peristil’s hosts, the casual but elegant decor of walls have witnessed 1,500 years of this tiny inn set in the woods, and the history. Peristil is tucked in a corner innovative gourmet cuisine in Filip- inside the walls of Diocletian’s palace, ini’s restaurant make up for any and while its facade is respectful of shortcomings. This is Istrian hospi- the magnificent Roman ruin, its inte- tality at its best. See p. 213. rior is brand new and comfortable. • Hotel Waldinger (Osijek): It packs a Staying here makes you feel as though lot of elegance into its 18 rooms, each you’ve gone back in time. See p. 85. of which drips with class in the heart of • Valsabbion (Pula): This hedonistic a city that has not altogether recovered experience is not to be missed. The from war. From here you can walk to hotel’s seven rooms and three suites the banks of the Drava, the city mar- are decorated with flair in a breezy, ket, and even medieval Tvrda without romantic style that carries over to its even breathing hard. See p. 308. exquisite restaurant, one of the best • Hotel Korana-Srakovci5 (Karlovac): in Croatia. There is also a spa with a The Korana’s sleek guest rooms are a long menu of beauty treatments.

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