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1 The Best of

German, Austrian, and Italian travelers have been well-versed in what Croatia has to offer as a vacation destination for more than a century. Until recently, every time they poured into the country in July and August, they had Croatia’s endless beaches and clear blue sea almost all to themselves. Today, the rest of the world has opened its eyes to Croatia’s charms and miles of coastline, wealth of Roman ruins, medieval hilltop castles, and natural wonders, as well as its warm and welcoming people. This makes the crowd of summer people who swoop down on the country larger and more diverse, swelling tourism to one of the country’s biggest sources of income. Even when crowds are at their largest, it is possible to find a secluded cove or patch of beach where it seems you’re the only person on Earth. And when all the name-brand hotels are filled, there is always a room with personality waiting in a private home where the landlord welcomes you like a long-lost friend. Every town and village has at least one restaurant where the locals hang out and where the slice of life you get with your meal is the best dessert there is. In Croatia, each building has a story that adds another facet to this gem of a country, an ancient land with a rocky past that also happens to be a magnificent work in progress. This chapter is a “road map” meant to give you, the reader, an idea of highlights that await you in Croatia. All you have to do to create an unforgettable Croatian adventure is fill in the blanks and connect the dots as you make discoveries of your own.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Listening to the Sea Organ (): shrink-wrapped in leather, but they Imagination and engineering created are a compelling sight. You won’t be this incomparable music maker, able to get up close and personal with which “broadcasts” sounds made by these relics, but you’ll get close water movement through openings in enough to recognize them as human. the organ’s pipes beneath the sea. Add The curtained-off area behind the a set of white stone steps descending altar of St. Blaise Church—where the into the water; they make a matchless light is dim, the music soulful, and venue COPYRIGHTEDon which to sit in the moon- the MATERIAL piped-in commentary a little light (or sunlight), let the water lap at exaggerated—contributes to an the your feet, and luxuriate in the organ’s atmosphere that is creepy but rivet- haunting sounds. See p. 139. ing, like watching a car wreck about • Viewing Mummies (Vodnjan): to happen. See p. 203. They are billed as the bodies of holy • Exploring the Village of Hum people who died centuries ago and (): It calls itself the smallest miraculously never decomposed. town in the world, and population- They look a little like skeletons wise, it might be. But so many people 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 2

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visit this village high in the Istrian former president Franjo Tûman or interior that it always seems crowded. the sculpture-rich arcades on either The village fathers have done a won- side of the entrance. See p. 254. derful job of restoring the buildings • Descending Into Ilocki Podrumi in town and making it tourist- (Ilok): It’s like walking down steep friendly. See p. 225. steps into a root cellar. You’ll get the • Strolling Through Mirogoj Ceme- chills in this second-oldest wine cellar tery (Zagreb): As much sculpture in Croatia from two sources: the tem- garden as it is burial ground, this perature and the history that resides 19th-century cemetery was designed in this subterranean chamber. The by Herman Bollé. It is home to Croa- cellar was looted by the Serbs during tian patriots, common folk, and peo- the Homeland War, but not before ple of all faiths and nationalities. The the owners were able to conceal bot- tombstones range from small and tles of the best vintages behind a false simple to enormous and elaborate, wall. Today those bottles are out of but each is a story in itself. Don’t miss hiding and on display along with the the black granite slab at the grave of barrels and vats used to store the win- ery’s newest vintages. See p. 311.

2 The Best Natural Wonders • Plitvice Lakes National Park butterflies live here. Perhaps the most (145km/90 miles southwest of interesting area to explore is Kornati’s Zagreb): Croatia’s best-known natural offshore underwater landscape. Its wonder, the park’s 16 crystal-clear rock formations support flourishing turquoise lakes and their countless flora and fauna. See p. 150. waterfalls, put on a great show. The • National Park (between lakes flow into one another and tum- Zadar and Karlobag): Its raw beauty is ble over deposits of travertine, which best appreciated by hikers and nature creates waterfalls dropping a few feet lovers. Even motorists respect the or plunging as much as 64m (210 ft.). imposing Velebeit peaks because the All this beauty is set in a dense forest limestone cliffs soar above deep gorges accessed via footpaths and populated and dense vegetation that hides caves by bears and wild boar. See p. 269. bored into the rock. See p. 146. • Kornati National Park (part of the • Krka National Park (less than a half- Zadar Archipelago): Kornati’s 140 hour from Sibenik): The park was islands are really the tops of moun- formed to protect the Krka River, tains that were above sea level 20,000 which runs from its source near Knin years ago but now are mostly sub- to the sea near Sibenik. The river has merged. One side of each island con- created a series of spectacular gorges, sists of land that is rocky and lightly waterfalls, lakes, and rapids on its trip blanketed with vegetation (even a few through the mountains. The most grapevines and olive trees). The side spectacular falls are the jaw-drop- facing the sea is a sheer rock wall pingly steep Skradinski Buk and Roski known as a “crown” that plunges Slapovi. Between the two are Lake almost 76m (250 ft.) straight down Visovac and Visovac Island, home to a into the water. Sixty-nine species of Franciscan monastery. See p. 153. 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 3

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3 The Best Open-Air Markets • Dolac (Zagreb) above the main the Riva to the Silver Gate. You’ll find square at the foot of Old Town is not the usual assortment of produce here. just a place to buy fruit and veggies. You’ll also find a large variety of tex- It is a crossroads where people come tiles and some of the most persuasive to see and be seen; to trade gossip; to vendors anywhere. See p. 83. relax with a cup of coffee; and to • Bjelovar’s market is quite civilized meet friends. Early morning is the and partially covered. It is noteworthy best time to visit because that’s when as the place to which farmers from the bread is freshest, the displays the Croatia’s agricultural belt bring their prettiest, and the people the most best produce, dairy products, fish, interesting. See p. 248. and meat every day. The market is at • Pazarin (Split) is reminiscent of a its busiest from 7am to noon, but a Turkish bazaar in looks, sounds, and few vendors stay around until 6pm or smells; booths and tables line both so to catch people on their way home sides of Hrvojeva Street outside the from work. The later it gets, the lower east wall of ’s Palace from the prices go. See p. 296.

4 The Best Small Hotels & Inns • Villa Filipini (Porec): Despite its overlooking the river and riverwalk is a location a couple of miles outside vacation all by itself. See p. 268. Porec’s center and the lack of a beach • Hotel Peristil (Split): Opened once in the vicinity, the warmth of the more for business in 2005, Peristil’s hosts, the casual but elegant decor of walls have witnessed 1,500 years of this tiny inn set in the woods, and the history. Peristil is tucked in a corner innovative gourmet cuisine in Filip- inside the walls of Diocletian’s palace, ini’s restaurant make up for any and while its facade is respectful of shortcomings. This is Istrian hospi- the magnificent Roman ruin, its inte- tality at its best. See p. 213. rior is brand new and comfortable. • Hotel Waldinger (Osijek): It packs a Staying here makes you feel as though lot of elegance into its 18 rooms, each you’ve gone back in time. See p. 85. of which drips with class in the heart of • Valsabbion (Pula): This hedonistic a city that has not altogether recovered experience is not to be missed. The from war. From here you can walk to hotel’s seven rooms and three suites the banks of the Drava, the city mar- are decorated with flair in a breezy, ket, and even medieval Tvrda without romantic style that carries over to its even breathing hard. See p. 308. exquisite restaurant, one of the best • Hotel Korana-Srakovci5 (Karlovac): in Croatia. There is also a spa with a The Korana’s sleek guest rooms are a long menu of beauty treatments. You nice surprise in Karlovac, which is still might come here for the beach, but putting itself back together after you’ll stay for the food and the pam- the 1991 war. The hotel’s big porch pering. See p. 199.

5 The Best Big Luxury Hotels • The Regent Esplanade (Zagreb): hotels in New York and Paris for a The most gracious hotel in Croatia fraction of the cost. From rich fur- compares favorably with luxury nishings in the guest rooms to a 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CROATIA concierge who is a gallant treasure for pampering a traveler could want, trove of Croatian history, a stay at the including a world-class restaurant. See Esplanade is an experience you’ll p. 170. never forget. See p. 237. • Diamant (Porec): Though it looks like • Hilton Imperial (): This one of those impersonal ’70s package- is the U.S. chain’s first foray into style hotels from the outside, it is much Croatia. Rather than build a hotel more—management has thought of from scratch, Hilton had the wisdom everything, and the hotel has an activ- to restore what was salvageable from ity to match guests’ every whim. The Dubrovnik’s historic 19th-century Diamont deserves special kudos for its Imperial and graft a modern hotel efforts to accommodate guests with onto the base. Every detail has been disabilities. Every room can accommo- taken care of here, and whether you date wheelchairs; even the pool and hail from America or Azerbaijan, locker rooms are outfitted to accom- you’ll be treated as an honored guest. modate the disabled. See p. 213. See p. 61. • Funimation (Zadar): The ultimate • Miramar (Opatija): Resembling a resort hotel. Funimation is elegant, huge, ornate sand castle overlooking all-inclusive with excellent restau- the sea, the Miramar was built at the rants, right on the beach, and sched- end of the 19th century for swells uled up the wazoo with activities to who frequented Opatija for their keep kids busy and out of their par- health. But a 2005 face-lift has turned ents’ hair. This is as close as it gets to this stately grande dame into a mod- a Disney World hotel outside of the ern spa hotel with every opportunity U.S. or Paris. See p. 140.

6 The Best Roman Ruins • Pula Amphitheater: Smaller than Do not approach without sturdy Rome’s coliseum but in much better walking shoes, sunscreen, and a full shape, the amphitheater is a lot more water bottle. See p. 91. accessible to tourists. Don’t miss the • Diocletian’s Palace (Split): It isn’t newly restored underground cham- what you think of when you hear the bers and their exhibits featuring word “palace.” First, Diocletian built Istrian history. And if you happen to his estate on a scale so grand it was be in town when a concert is sched- converted into a city after he died. uled there, try to get a ticket no mat- And second, the city’s landscape has ter who is headlining. See p. 197. been tinkered with so much during • Salona (Solin): The grandeur that the last 15 centuries that the character was Rome is still evident in the crum- of the original complex has been all bling buildings and foundations that but obliterated. However, what grace this former outpost of the remains of the palace and what has empire. It isn’t difficult to imagine been built on its footprint is now what Salona looked like in its prime, Split’s Old Town, and if you walk but it is tough to imagine why this around it, through it, and under it magnificent city was left to sink into enough, you’ll begin to understand the Earth for a couple of centuries. Diocletian’s enormous ego. See p. 80. 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 5

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7 The Best Beaches • Baska (Krk Island): This is a sun- you did. This is the famous strip usu- lover’s paradise, with more than 30 ally photographed from the air in all beaches of varying size and a prome- the Croatia ads. In aerials, Zlatni Rat nade that skirts most of them. Baska’s resembles a green finger rimmed beaches once were sand, but today with sand and tipped with a curling the sand is covered with pebbles that tendril extending into the sapphire extend a few feet into the water. That sea. From ground level, it is a sun- doesn’t diminish their appeal because blasted, pebbled landscape covered beach chairs, umbrellas, and padded with a huge international crowd mats are readily available on the soaking up the rays and the local cul- promenade. See p. 176. ture. See p. 98. • Novalja (Pag Island): Any cove off • Orebi5 (Peljesac Peninsula): The Novalja can be a private beach. The civilized beach gently rolls into the water just a few feet offshore is so sea. This is a place where families clear you can see the white, sandy spend the day together and, at the bottom 6m (20 ft.) below. If you have end of the day, Mom brings covered a boat, drop anchor for a while, take bowls full of fruit down to kids who a dip, and let your stress float away. don’t want to leave their sand castles See p. 129. and snorkels for dinner. The water is • Zlatni Rat (Brac Island): You must warm, the sun constant, and the peo- visit this beach just so you can say ple as nice as they come. See p. 117.

8 The Best Promenades • Tkalci5eva Street (Zagreb): This is a a tourist path crowded with hordes designer’s runway, a shopper’s para- rushing to and from Old Town’s dise, a gourmet’s delight, and a histo- famous churches and monuments rian’s fascination. This is where trying to see as much as they can. Zagreb’s cafe society holds court and When the sun wanes, the traffic does- where everyone—including tourists— n’t diminish, but slows to promenade takes a stroll in the evening to see pace, and the crowd’s style changes what’s happening. See p. 248. from comfortably dressed to their • Riverwalk (Osijek): The promenade showy best. See p. 57. along the mighty Drava is never • Obala Hrvatskog Naradnog Pre- empty. People walk their dogs, cou- poroda—The “Riva” (Split): Split’s ples take romantic strolls, kids ride Riva is caught between the city’s two skateboards, and tourists stretch their busiest places: Diocletian’s Palace and legs at all hours of the day and night the ferry landing. Consequently, foot as they follow the river from Tvrdato traffic is shoulder-to-shoulder, with the winter harbor. Near Tvrda, a little the occasional detours to cafe tables bridge leads to the opposite bank and and portable ice-cream stands. The Copacabana, a popular swimming Riva abuts the palace’s south wall and area. See p. 305. was once under water, but today it is • Stradun (Dubrovnik): The walled the location of some of Split’s liveliest city’s main thoroughfare is broad and nightlife. See p. 80. bricked and lined with shops and • Riva (): Croatia’s most enter- cafes. During the day, the Stradun is taining promenade may be the Riva, 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CROATIA especially during the summer. Besides other entrepreneurs mingle with the restaurants that line this path strollers taking in the sights. For a between the city walls and the sea, a visual treat, go to the top of Kamer- cappella singers, fire-eating dancers, lengo Fortress at the end of the Riva vendors selling candy by the kilo, and and take a picture of the lights and action swirling below. See p. 139.

9 The Most Charming Rustic Villages • Kumrovec in the Zagorje is like a natural surroundings are what keep Croatian Williamsburg with restored them there for hours. See p. 291. cabins and barns furnished as they • Strigova itself isn’t exceptionally rus- were when Croatia’s most famous tic, but it is a quaint launching pad for son, Josip Broz Tito, was born in the a visit to the surrounding Medimurje early 20th century. Some of the rustic region. From here you can explore the buildings in this open-air museum rolling vineyards and wineries of contain photos and displays, while northern Croatia. See p. 272. others are home to docents in tradi- • Hlebine in the north-central part of tional costumes who explain weaving, inland Croatia is home to a colony of candle making, and some of the crafts nearly 200 painters and sculptors, the of the times. See p. 275. country’s naive art movement, and • Cigo5 is known as the “Stork Place” Josip and Ivan Generali5, all of whom because of the long-legged birds that give it the largest concentration of pro- perch atop roofs in this Lonjsko Polje ponents of naive art in Croatia. Many village. The storks are the hook that works from these artists are on display gets tourists to stop in the middle of in the town’s galleries, one of which is the marsh, but the historic cabins and the Generali5 home. See p. 294.

10 The Best Cathedrals/Churches • Holy Cross Church (Nin): Holy • St. Donatus (Zadar): Notable for its Cross is the oldest church in Croatia unusual shape (circular inside), St. and also the world’s smallest cathe- Donatus has a dearth of decoration. dral, according to signs posted out- The church is no longer used for side. According to one scientist, the Mass, but its great acoustics make it a little white stone church is also a hot venue for classical concerts. Like giant sun dial and was constructed other churches of its time (9th c.), according to mathematical calcula- Donatus is one of several buildings in tions. See p. 147. a clerical complex. See p. 137. • Euphrasian Complex • Church of St. Mary (Beram): This (Porec): A must-see sight in this city chapel in the woods is so small and so of superlatives, the UNESCO World remote that you would never notice it Heritage church is the final of four if it weren’t in a guidebook. But its that were built on top of each other. very remoteness is what protected the One of its premier attractions is the eye-popping frescoes that dance on collection of Byzantine on St. Mary’s walls. You’ll need to pick display. This is not just one church, up one of the church’s keepers in but a series of church buildings, each Beram and drive to the chapel in the with its own story. See p. 211. woods so she can unlock it, but it’s worth it. See p. 221. 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 7

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11 The Best Castles • Pazin Kastel (Istria): One of the brick fortress that looks like the place best-preserved castles in Istria, thanks Rapunzel might have let down her to renovations, this one is a surprising hair. Veliki Tabor has its own legends “must-see” in the Istrian interior. that include murder, mayhem, and a Pazin Kastel is built next to one of the ghost. While the exterior of the 12th- scariest-looking gorges ever, a feature century structure looks like it could that was conveniently utilized as a withstand a nuclear attack, the inside dumping ground (literally) for ene- is still a ruin in search of renovation. mies of whoever controlled the castle See p. 275. at the time. What may be Croatia’s • Trakoscan Castle (near Varazdin): best ethnographic museum is inside. North of Zagreb is one of Croatia’s See p. 221. most visited sites and one of its most • Stari Grad (Varazdin): The Gothic impressive castles—from the outside. defensive complex The grounds are extensive and the includes a castle and the Varazdin structure itself is everything you’d Town Museum. As a whole, Stari expect a storybook castle to be— Grad is one of this town’s stone walls, turrets, a drawbridge— best attractions. The museum is an but inside, renovations have been less excellent showcase for the town’s art- than meticulous and sometimes bor- work and historical items. Multi-lin- der on the ridiculous. However, gual docents are more than willing to Trakoscan is worth the trip if for no help visitors. See p. 281. other reason than to muse on the • Veliki Tabor (Zagorje Region): plastic deer mounted on the walls North of Zagreb is an imposing solid outside the entrance. See p. 280.

12 The Best Town Squares • The Forum (Zadar): The city’s main besides the cellar where you can grasp square, the Forum is notable for the the scope of the place and how it Roman ruins that lie in situ just out- looked in its prime. The Peristil is also side the St. Donatus church complex. where Split puts on its famous opera These are not ruins you’ll tread on performances during its celebrated lightly: They are used daily. Merchants summer festival. See p. 82. display their wares on what’s left of the • Forum Square (Pula): This is the city’s walls; kids ride their trikes over them; center and the site of its second-best and people sit anywhere. This is the Roman ruin, the Temple of Augustus. heart of the city. See p. 137. The 2nd-century B.C. temple is now a • The Peristil (Split): Once Diocletian’s museum. Extensively restored after reception room, the Peristil is just severe damage during World War II, it inside the Silver Gate. It is perhaps the still is an exceptional example of one place in what’s left of the palace Roman engineering. See p. 196.

13 The Best Restaurants • Valsabbion (Pula): This is one of mecca of haute cuisine but not so those restaurants that defies catego- haute that it is intimidating. Valsab- rization. It is innovative yet tradi- bion is a temple to Istrian ingredients tional; stylish yet not overly so; a and Istrian dishes that are a perfect 04_598988 ch01.qxp 3/28/06 7:09 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CROATIA match for its talented chef. Together envelope. The food here is Dalmatian they make magic. See p. 200. fare with complex sauces and side • Zigante (Livade): Behold truffle king dishes that surprise you. Both the Giancarlo Zigante’s gourmet palace. dining room and the piano bar Almost everything on the extensive (which serves light snacks) are very menu here utilizes the truffle, the pre- sophisticated spaces. See p. 66. cious fungus upon which Zigante • Riblji Restaurant Fosa (Zadar): made his fortune. The restaurant is Fosa has one of the best locations in not a gimmick, however: Everything Croatia. It is right at the water out- on the menu is expertly prepared and side the Zadar wall and it has a view even flirts with creativity. See p. 224. and sea breeze that make the food • Gallo (Zagreb): Tucked in the court- taste that much better. The restaurant yard of a drab building in downtown is a favorite hangout for locals. See Zagreb, Gallo is an oasis of fine din- p. 143. ing that relies on freshly made pasta, • Palaca Paladini (Hvar Town): This just-caught fish, a strong wine list, restaurant appeals to all five senses: It and superb service. Both the terrace is set in a beautiful garden with and the dining room are beautiful blooming lavender and orange trees settings for the beautiful food. See frequented by songbirds. It has a p. 244. great list of wines that please the • Porat (Dubrovnik): The Hilton palate; and it offers superb Dalmatian Imperial’s signature restaurant offers cuisine that tastes as good as it smells a menu that pushes the creativity and looks. See p. 108.