www.tropicalbirding.com

Namibia and From the Desert to the Swamp

22 August – 5 September 2014

Guide: Josh Engel

Namibia during the dry season is a stark land, yet it abounds with life. and have evolved in its deserts to cope with a long, harsh dry season, knowing exactly where and how to get the moisture and sustenance they need to survive. It’s a brilliant time to visit the country, when these creatures gather around waterholes, puddles, and leaking pipes to find the water they so desperately need. It’s also the season that flamingoes gather on the coast, that antelope and their predators gather at waterholes, and that the clear desert sky is uninterrupted by even a single cloud, day or night. Botswana is dry, too, but the mighty pumps water into the dry land, bringing with it an abundance of life and supporting forests and wetlands in the middle of the Kalahari Desert.

This trip took advantage of it all. The flocks of thousands of flamingoes at Walvis Bay; the birdbaths pumping with Rosy-faced Lovebirds in the stunning Erongo Mountains; hundreds of antelopes, giraffes, and ostrich wary of the lurking lions at an Etosha waterhole; and the abundant birdlife of the Okavango swamps. In between we visited the world-famous San rock engravings at Twyfelfontein, had our evening checklist session interrupted by rhinos and elephants, found virtually all of the endemic Kalahari birds, took boat trips on the Okavango River to find hippos and Pel’s Fishing Owl, and found ourselves wondering at the myriad forms that a desert can take. Below is a day-by-day account, with all of the photos presented taken on this single trip.

Day 1, Arrival in Windhoek

We headed through the Kalahari Desert from the airport into Windhoek, Namibia’s clean and orderly capital. We took a slight detour on the way to the hotel to check out a few historic buildings in town alongside the brand new Independence Museum. We saw a few birds around town, including a beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller.

Day 2, Windhoek to the coast

An early morning outing near the hotel was very active for birds. Best were our first Kalahari specialties, including Black-faced and Violet-eared Waxbills and Ashy Tit. After a lovely breakfast we started on our

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 1 www.tropicalbirding.com way to the coast. We took the scenic route in order to enjoy the desolate beauty of the Namibian countryside—winding our way first through the Kalahari Desert before dropping down into the Namib Desert—and, of course, in the hopes of seeing birds and animals. Just after leaving town Sharon spotted a Purple Roller that sat up obligingly. Later stops yielded many other birds, including a beautiful male Short-toed Rock Thrush and a flock of swifts that included many Bradfield’s. Dropping down the escarpment into the Namib Desert we came across a group of mammals that included the rock-loving Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra that put on a great show taking a dust bath right in front of us. Later on we found the Namib Desert specialty Rueppell’s Korhaan right by the roadside, and we stopped to admire— and move off the road—a wonderful Namaqua Chameleon. Just before arriving in Swakopmund we found that there were ponds in the Swakop River that were full of birds. A quick stop yielded several goodies including Chestnut-banded Plover and our first Lesser Flamingoes.

On Namibia’s coast, desert-loving animals like this Namaqua Chameleon rub shoulders with water- loving creatures like Pied Avocet.

Day 3,The coast

We headed south after breakfast and soon arrived at the world famous Walvis Bay Lagoon. It quickly lived up to its reputation (at least after the fog cleared) with thousands of Lesser and Greater Flamingoes, including a large flock very close to the shore. There was also a good variety of shorebirds and terns, including Bar-tailed Godwit.

Happy with our haul, we headed inland into the Namib Desert to Rooibank to search for Namibia’s one true endemic , Dune Lark, and to spend some time in Namibia’s famous red dunes. It was a beautiful walk, but our quarry proved elusive. We enjoyed the Tenebrionid beetles and Shovel-snouted Lizards scurrying over the sand and found many Dune Lark tracks. Finally giving up, we headed back the car, stopping for a stunning Swallow-tailed Bee-eater en route. Nearing the car, I could hardly believe my eyes as a pair of Dune Larks strutted out of the scrub into the riverbed in front of us. What luck! We watched them root around in the sand for insects before heading back into town for lunch.

Heading back towards Swakopmund after lunch, we stopped in at the guano platforms that are just off the beach. As usual, they were covered in thousands of Cape Cormorants with a few Crowned Cormorants and Great White Pelicans mixed in. We were also thrilled to find a young Cape Fur Seal playing in the surf and two Bottle-nosed Dolphins swimming a bit further off shore. We spent the remainder of the

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 2 www.tropicalbirding.com afternoon enjoying the town of Swakopmund and its German colonial architecture, topped off by another fresh seafood dinner.

Day 4, Coast to the Erongo Mountains

We took a short beach walk near town the following morning. Besides getting one last look at both species of flamingoes, we had nice looks at beach-running White-fronted Plovers, our only Gray-hooded Gull, and many Lesser Swamp Warblers. Finally we were off back to the interior, into the scrublands of the Kalahari. A few roadside stops yielded several new birds, before we made it to the wonderful root carving shop in Omaruru for some retail therapy. After lunch at a café in town, we made it to our stunning lodge set among the granitic Erongo Mountains. Freckled Nightjars put on a good show as we showed up for dinner.

Day 5, Erongo Mountains

We spent a wonderful, bird-filled, and relaxing day in the stunning surrounds of our lodge. An early morning walk yielded many of the specialty birds of the region, including Hartlaub’s Francolin, Rockrunner, Carp’s Tit, Monteiro’s Hornbill, and White-tailed Shrike. We ate a leisurely breakfast while watching myriad birds coming to bath and drink just outside, including many Rosy-faced Lovebirds and Pale-winged Starlings. After a refreshing afternoon rest, we headed out to a nearby dry riverbed. We were quickly distracted in our search for birds by a group of mostly young giraffes (with two oryx) that we slowly approached. On our return to the car we did turn up two of our target birds: Southern Pied Babbler and Rueppell’s Parrot.

Cool birds: Damara Red-billed Hornbill and Rosy-faced Lovebirds, both found primarily in Namibia.

Day 6, Erongo Mountains to Twyfelfontein

Before breakfast we enjoyed the morning show at the bird baths, including dozens of Rosy-faced Lovebirds and a couple of the locally endemic dassie rat. On a short walk nearby we had wonderful looks at a Yellow-bellied Eremomela alternately enjoying meals of bugs and nectar. We said goodbye to the lodge and its abundant rock hyrax and headed back into the desert. We stopped for a picnic lunch in a shaded campground along a tree-lined dry watercourse near our destination. In no time, we had both Bare-cheeked Babbler and Damara Red-billed Hornbills (among others) begging for scraps and giving brilliant photo ops. We finished the day with a tour of the world-famous Twyfelfontein rock engravings.

Day 7, Twyfelfontein to Etosha

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 3 www.tropicalbirding.com

We got an early start, quickly disrupted first by Bokmakierie at the lodge soon followed by a Secretarybird and a group of Ostrich as we were leaving on our way out. We were soon on our way again, eventually making a stop to visit the fascinating petrified forests and finally seeing many Welwitschia plants. We continued straight into the great Etosha National Park. At the first waterhole we found many of the typical animals—giraffe, impala, zebra, oryx, kudu, springbok--but even better were the lions resting under a nearby mopane tree. We made a note to check back on our way out. We made it to the first camp and sat by the waterhole for a while. Before long, two male elephants made an appearance and put on a show of blowing muddy water all over themselves. We had to leave the park for the night, but it turned out to be fortuitous. As we approached the area where the lions had been earlier, we found they were still there. But not just a couple—there was an entire pride, including seven playful cubs. The last to show up were the male closely attending an estrus female. We had an incredible experience watching the cubs, lactating females, and the male interacting in front of the setting sun. It was quite the introduction to the park.

Cape Glossy Starling was with us for much of the desert part of the trip, but we had to make a special effort to see the unique and remarkable Welwitschia plant.

Day 8, Etosha

We again started the day with a pre-breakfast walk. It was very quiet until we found a dripping water tank—apparently that’s where all the birds had been! Among the numerous birds were a stunning male Shaft-tailed Whydah, but soon havoc broke out when a Little Sparrowhawk arrived. We entered the park and stopped again at the lion waterhole. As we were watching the usual aggregation of ungulates, the maned male and his female strutted right by the car, giving great photo ops in the morning light. We continued on driving around looking for birds and wildlife until lunch. Among the many animals were some very obliging black-backed jackals, more elephants, and our first red hartebeest. Birds including several new larks, a Greater Kestrel on a nest, and a pair of gorgeous Martial Eagles resting near a water hole. After a nice midday rest, we gathered back at the camp’s waterhole where a black rhino had appeared. From there we took a walk around camp, very quickly adding many new birds, including the Crimson-breasted Shrike that Debby had found ten minutes prior, plus Burnt-necked Eremomela, Long- billed Crombec, and great looks at Groundscaper Thrush. Our pre-dinner checklist session was postponed thanks to a large and entertaining herd of elephants that came to the camp waterhole. Then after dinner we were again delayed, this time by seven black rhinos at the waterhole.

Day 9, Etosha

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 4 www.tropicalbirding.com

An early morning drive was quiet for mammals, but we did find several new birds including great looks at Eastern Clapper Lark and Southern Anteating Chat. After breakfast we set off eastward. There were loads of animals everywhere. We especially enjoyed watching jousting oryx and a remarkable herd of 1000+ Burchell’s zebra that seemed to stretch to the horizon. Best of all, though, was a stunning leopard, hanging out--quite literally--in a dead tree right next to the road. We happened to be in the perfect place when it changed positions to get great looks and photos of the whole , dangling legs and all. Afterwards we enjoyed a very pleasant lunch at a waterhole, after which a camp guard led us to a roosting African Scops Owl. The afternoon started off quietly, but eventually we found a beautiful pair of Secretarybirds and had a great encounter with two male elephants before reaching our destination for the night on the east side of Etosha.

Mammals tend to steal the show in Etosha. We saw this male lion on two consecutive days. At right, dueling oryx.

Day 10, Etosha to Shamvura

We took an early morning walk around the lodge, finding several new birds including some beautiful Blue Waxbills, many Red-billed Buffalo Weavers, and a Black-headed Oriole. Most of the remainder of the day (after one last waterhole visit) was spent driving north and east towards the Caprivi Strip. We took a well-deserved lunch break at a wonderful little hotel restaurant. Arriving at our lodge, we enjoyed the view over the Okavango River—complete with a roosting Barn Owl—before finding our rooms. We enjoyed a very interesting dinner listening to our host talk about the local area.

Day 11, Shamvura to Shakawe

Today we packed it all in. We started with a spectacular boat ride on the Okavango. Before we even boarded the boat we saw a couple of the local specialties—Brown Firefinch and Coppery-tailed Coucal, along with a lovely pair of African Hoopoes. Birds were abundant along the river as they always are here and we had our first real taste of freshwater birding, finding birds like Purple Swamphen feeding chicks, Greater Painted-Snipe, African Skimmers with a chick, and many shorebirds, herons, and egrets. The trip was highlighted by the group of hippos hanging out around the edge of an island and the incredible colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters, their pink feathers glowing in the morning light.

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 5 www.tropicalbirding.com

After a late breakfast we went to a nearby village to learn about the basket-weaving cooperative that has been established in the area to help local women earn a regular income and of course we couldn’t resist buying some of the beautiful baskets from the artisans themselves.

Finally it was time to head towards Botswana. We took a detour through the brilliant Mahango Reserve (now part of ), where we benefited from the wonderful afternoon sunlight. Mammals were abundant and we got our last (and for several species, first) looks at many of them, including tsessebe, elephant, zebra, red lechwe, and a single roan antelope. We also got to watch hippos in and out of the water, including with babies. The birding was equally excellent and the floodplain was full of birds, including Wattled Crane, Collared Pratincole, and many ducks, ibis, herons, storks, and spoonbills. We arrived at our beautiful riverside lodge in Botswana with enough time to look around and realize that we were in for a very nice next few days.

Close encounters with megafauna: Giant Kingfisher and African Elephant, taken from different boat rides on the Okavango River.

Days 12 and 13, Shakawe

We had two full days to relax and explore this wonderful area. We took many walks in the surrounds of our lodge, situated on the banks of the Okavango River. Birds like Hartlaub’s Babbler, Swamp Boubou, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Blue Waxbill, African Fish-Eagle, and three species of bee-eaters were common around the grounds. We found many other goodies as we were walking about, including Black- faced Babbler, African Barred-Owlet, Brown Firefinch, and stunning looks at Violet-backed Starling. We also had a beautiful and successful evening boat trip. Besides finding out two main target birds—Pel’s Fishing Owl and White-backed Night-Heron—we got great looks in the perfect evening light of birds like Malachite Kingfisher, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, and Goliath Heron. We also came across a few interesting raptors, including Black-chested and the uncommon Western Banded Snake-Eagle. We finished the boat ride with a very close elephant and a trained fish-eagle grabbing a fish from the water just feet from the boat.

Day 14, Shakawe to Maun

After a final pre-breakfast walk on the beautiful lodge grounds, we departed for our final night of the tour in Maun. We made several stops for birds (and for shopping!) along the way, including stopping for Bateleur, Green Woodhoopoe, and a variety of waterbirds as we crossed the Kunyere River, including our best looks yet at Marabou Stork and our first Comb Ducks.

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 6 www.tropicalbirding.com

Day 15, Departure from Maun

We had a very productive pre-breakfast walk around the lodge grounds. New birds came quickly, especially considering it was our final morning, including African Mourning-Dove, African Green-Pigeon, Senegal Coucal, and an African Openbill wading in the Thamalakane River. Our best find was a wonderful African Cuckoo-Hawk that circled overhead just as we returned for breakfast. We weren’t done yet, however. After breakfast the lodge treated us to a short boat trip on the river. It was a beautiful ride, where we got final looks at birds that were now familiar to us: Pied Kingfisher, African Jacana, African Fish-Eagle, and several others. The highlight of the ride was finding the floating nest of an African Jacana, with four beautifully patterned black-and-brown eggs inside. Finally it was time to say our goodbyes, after a wonderful, busy, and incredibly rich two weeks through Namibia and Botswana.

Lunchtime birding was often productive (photo by Sharon Gurwitz). At right, White-fronted Bee- eater, a common and beautiful species along the Okavango River.

BIRD LIST: follows the Clements/Cornell checklist, available at http://www.birds.cornell.edu/clementschecklist/download/

More typical Southern African names are in parentheses. (E) denotes Southern African endemic or near- endemic, or a shared Namibia/ endemic.

Ostrich - Struthio camelus White-faced Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna viduata Comb Duck - Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose - Alopochen aegyptiaca Spur-winged Goose - Plectropterus gambensis African Pygmy-Goose - Nettapus auritus Red-billed Duck - Anas erythrorhyncha Cape Teal - Anas capensis Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris Crested Francolin - Francolinus sephaena (E) Hartlaub's Francolin - Francolinus hartlaubi We came across a family group in the Erongo Mountains. Red-billed Francolin - Francolinus adspersus

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 7 www.tropicalbirding.com

Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus roseus Lesser Flamingo - Phoenicopterus minor African Openbill - Anastomus lamelligerus Marabou Stork - Leptoptilos crumenifer Yellow-billed Stork - Mycteria ibis Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo Cape Cormorant - Phalacrocorax capensis Long-tailed Cormorant - Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant - Phalacrocorax coronatus African Darter - Anhinga rufa Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus Pink-backed Pelican - Pelecanus rufescens Hamerkop - Scopus umbretta Little Bittern - Ixobrychus minutus Gray Heron - Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron - Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron - Ardea goliath Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea Great Egret - Ardea alba Little Egret - Egretta garzetta Black Heron (Egret)- Egretta ardesiaca Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides Rufous-bellied Heron - Ardeola rufiventris Striated Heron - Butorides striata White-backed Night-Heron - Gorsachius leuconotus We had short but good views of a pair near our lodge in Botswana. Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus Hadada Ibis - Bostrychia hagedash Secretary-bird - Sagittarius serpentarius Black-shouldered Kite - Elanus caeruleus African Cuckoo-Hawk - Aviceda cuculoides We had great views of this uncommon hawk in Maun. It was the first record for the grounds of the hotel where we stayed. Lappet-faced Vulture - Torgos tracheliotos White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus Bateleur - Terathopius ecaudatus Black-breasted Snake-Eagle - Circaetus pectoralis Banded Snake-Eagle - Circaetus cinerascens We had brief views of this uncommon eagle from our boat trip on the Okavango River in Botswana. Martial Eagle - Polemaetus bellicosus

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 8 www.tropicalbirding.com

We saw this huge eagle several times, but none better than the pair sitting in a small tree next to a waterhole in Etosha. Pale Chanting-Goshawk - Melierax canorus African Marsh-Harrier - Circus ranivorus Little Sparrowhawk - Accipiter minullus Black (Yellow-billed) Kite - Milvus migrans African Fish-Eagle - Haliaeetus vocifer Kori Bustard - Ardeotis kori (E) Rueppell's Bustard (Korhaan) - Eupodotis rueppelii (E) Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan) - Eupodotis ruficrista (E) White-quilled Bustard (Northern Black Korhaan) - Eupodotis afraoides African Rail (H) - Rallus caerulescens Black Crake - Amaurornis flavirostra Purple Swamphen - Porphyrio porphyrio Eurasian Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus Water Thick-knee - Burhinus vermiculatus Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet - Recurvirostra avosetta African Oystercatcher - Haematopus moquini Black-bellied (Grey) Plover - Pluvialis squatarola Blacksmith Lapwing - Vanellus armatus Crowned Lapwing - Vanellus coronatus Wattled Lapwing - Vanellus senegallus Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover - Charadrius tricollaris White-fronted Plover - Charadrius marginatus Chestnut-banded Plover - Charadrius pallidus We saw adults and young along the coast of Namibia. Greater Painted-snipe - Rostratula benghalensis African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres Curlew Sandpiper - Calidris ferruginea Little Stint - Calidris minuta Double-banded Courser - Smutsornis africanus We saw a couple of families complete with tiny fuzzball chicks in Etosha. Gray-hooded Gull - Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Hartlaub's Gull - Chroicocephalus hartlaubii Kelp (Cape) Gull - Larus dominicanus Caspian Tern - Hydroprogne caspia

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 9 www.tropicalbirding.com

Great Crested (Swift) Tern - Thalasseus bergii African Skimmer - Rynchops flavirostris Namaqua Sandgrouse - Pterocles namaqua Rock Pigeon – Columba livia Speckled Pigeon - Columba guinea Mourning Collared-Dove (African Mourning Dove) - Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove - Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove - Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove - Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove - Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon - Treron calvus Gray Go-away-bird - Corythaixoides concolor Coppery-tailed Coucal - Centropus cupreicaudus Senegal Coucal - Centropus senegalensis White-browed Coucal - Centropus superciliosus Barn Owl - Tyto alba African Scops-Owl - Otus senegalensis Pel's Fishing-Owl - Scotopelia peli One of the Okavanga Delta’s most famous birds, we had great views of a pair roosting in a huge riverside jackalberry tree. Pearl-spotted Owlet (H) - Glaucidium perlatum African Barred Owlet - Glaucidium capense Rufous-cheeked Nightjar - Caprimulgus rufigena Fiery-necked Nightjar - Caprimulgus pectoralis (E) Freckled Nightjar - Caprimulgus tristigma Alpine Swift - Apus melba (E) Bradfield's Swift - Apus bradfieldi Little Swift - Apus affinis African Palm-Swift - Cypsiurus parvus White-backed Mousebird - Colius colius Red-faced Mousebird - Urocolius indicus Malachite Kingfisher - Corythornis cristatus Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maxima Pied Kingfisher - Ceryle rudis White-fronted Bee-eater - Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater - Merops pusillus Swallow-tailed Bee-eater - Merops hirundineus Southern Carmine Bee-eater - Merops nubicoides Tied for bird-of-the-trip. One of the highlights of the trip was sitting in a boat next to a large breeding colony of these stunning, migratory bee-eaters along the Okavango River. Lilac-breasted Roller - caudatus

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 10 www.tropicalbirding.com

Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller - Coracias naevius Eurasian (African) Hoopoe - Upupa epops Green Woodhoopoe - Phoeniculus purpureus Common Scimitar-bill - Rhinopomastus cyanomelas (E) Monteiro's Hornbill - Tockus monteiri Southern Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus rufirostris (E) Damara Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus damarensis (E) Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill - Tockus leucomelas African Gray Hornbill - Tockus nasutus Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus chrysoconus (E) (Acacia) Pied Barbet - Tricholaema leucomelas Black-collared Barbet - Lybius torquatus Golden-tailed Woodpecker - Campethera abingoni Cardinal Woodpecker - Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker - Dendropicos namaquus Eurasian (Rock) Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus Greater Kestrel - Falco rupicoloides (E) Rosy-faced Lovebird - Agapornis roseicollis We saw large numbers of these beautiful little parrots coming to drink and eat just outside our dining room windows in the Erongo Mountains. Meyer's Parrot (H) - Poicephalus meyeri (E) Rueppell's Parrot - Poicephalus rueppellii (E) White-tailed Shrike - Lanioturdus torquatus (E) Pririt Batis - Batis pririt Retz's Helmetshrike - Prionops retzii Brubru - Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback - Dryoscopus cubla Brown-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra australis (Swamp) Boubou - bicolor (E) Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike) - Laniarius atrococcineus (E) Bokmakierie - Telophorus zeylonus Sulphur-breasted (Orange-breasted) - Telophorus sulfureopectus Black Cuckooshrike - Campephaga flava Southern (Common) Fiscal - Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike - Corvinella melanoleuca White-crowned Shrike - Eurocephalus anguitimens African Black-headed Oriole - Oriolus larvatus Fork-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus adsimilis Cape Crow - Corvus capensis Pied Crow - Corvus albus (E) Eastern Clapper Lark - Mirafra fasciolata Sabota Lark - Calendulauda sabota (E) Dune Lark - Calendulauda erythrochlamys

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 11 www.tropicalbirding.com

Tied for bird-of-the-trip, a rare distinction indeed for a lark. This was in part due to it being the only true Namibia endemic, but even more so to how we found it: after much searching, we finally found a pair right next to the car! (E) Spike-heeled Lark - Chersomanes albofasciata Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark - Eremopterix leucotis (E) Gray-backed Sparrow-Lark - Eremopterix verticalis Red-capped Lark - Calandrella cinerea Plain (Brown-throated) Martin - Riparia paludicola Banded Martin - Riparia cincta Rock Martin - Ptyonoprogne fuligula Wire-tailed Swallow - Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow - Hirundo dimidiata Lesser Striped-Swallow - Cecropis abyssinica Rufous-chested Swallow - Cecropis semirufa (E) Carp's Tit - Melaniparus carpi (E) Ashy Tit - Melaniparus cinerascens Yellow-bellied Greenbul - Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul - Phyllastrephus terrestris Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul - Pycnonotus barbatus (E) Black-fronted (African Red-eyed) Bulbul - Pycnonotus nigricans Cape (Long-billed) Crombec - Sylvietta rufescens (E) Rockrunner - Achaetops pycnopygius It took some work, but we finally had nice looks at one doing just as its name implies in the Erongo Mountains. African Reed-Warbler - Acrocephalus baeticatus Little Rush-Warbler - Bradypterus baboecala Yellow-breasted Apalis - Apalis flavida Green-backed Camaroptera - Camaroptera brachyura (E) Barred Wren-Warbler (H) - Calamonastes fasciolatus Rattling Cisticola - Cisticola chiniana Red-headed (Gray-backed) Cisticola - Cisticola subruficapilla Chirping Cisticola (H) - Cisticola pipiens Desert Cisticola - Cisticola aridulus Tawny-flanked Prinia - Prinia subflava (E) Black-chested Prinia - Prinia flavicans Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Eremomela icteropygialis Burnt-neck Eremomela - Eremomela usticollis (E) Rufous-vented Warbler (Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler) - Sylvia subcaerulea African Yellow White-eye - Zosterops senegalensis Hartlaub's Babbler - Turdoides hartlaubii (E) Black-faced Babbler - Turdoides melanops (E) Southern Pied-Babbler - Turdoides bicolor Arrow-marked Babbler - Turdoides jardineii

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 12 www.tropicalbirding.com

(E) Bare-cheeked Babbler - Turdoides gymnogenys (E) Chat Flycatcher - Bradornis infuscatus (E) Mariqua (Marico) Flycatcher - Bradornis mariquensis Ashy Flycatcher - Muscicapa caerulescens (E) Kalahari Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas paena Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas leucophrys White-browed Robin-Chat - Cossypha heuglini (E) Short-toed Rock-Thrush - Monticola brevipes African Stonechat - Saxicola torquatus (E) Southern Anteater-Chat - Myrmecocichla formicivora (E) Karoo Chat - Cercomela schlegelii Familiar Chat - Cercomela familiaris (E) Mountain Wheatear - Oenanthe monticola Groundscraper Thrush - Psophocichla litsitsirupa Kurrichane Thrush - Turdus libonyana Wattled Starling - Creatophora cinerea (E) Cape Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis nitens Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis chalybaeus Meves's Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis mevesii (E) Burchell's Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis australis Violet-backed Starling - Cinnyricinclus leucogaster (E) Pale-winged Starling - Onychognathus nabouroup Collared Sunbird - Hedydipna collaris Scarlet-chested Sunbird - Chalcomitra senegalensis Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird - Cinnyris mariquensis White-breasted Sunbird - Cinnyris talatala (E) Dusky Sunbird - Cinnyris fuscus Cape Wagtail - Motacilla capensis African Pied Wagtail - Motacilla aguimp African Pipit - Anthus cinnamomeus (E) Lark-like Bunting - Emberiza impetuani Cinnamon-breasted Bunting - Emberiza tahapisi (E) Cape Bunting - Emberiza capensis Golden-breasted Bunting - Emberiza flaviventris (E) Black-throated Canary - Serinus atrogularis (E) White-throated Canary - Serinus albogularis House Sparrow - Passer domesticus (E) Great Rufous Sparrow - Passer motitensis (E) Cape Sparrow - Passer melanurus (E) Southern Gray-headed Sparrow - Passer diffusus Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver - Bubalornis niger (E) Scaly Weaver (Scaly-feathered Finch) - Sporopipes squamifrons White-browed Sparrow-Weaver - Plocepasser mahali

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 13 www.tropicalbirding.com

(E) Social (Sociable Weaver - Philetairus socius Holub's (African) Golden-Weaver - Ploceus xanthops Southern Brown-throated Weaver - Ploceus xanthopterus Lesser Masked-Weaver - Ploceus intermedius Southern Masked-Weaver - Ploceus velatus Chestnut Weaver - Ploceus rubiginosus Red-billed Quelea - Quelea quelea Common Waxbill - Estrilda astrild (E) Black-faced Waxbill - Estrilda erythronotos (E) Southern Cordonbleu (Blue Waxbill) - Uraeginthus angolensis (E) Violet-eared Waxbill - Granatina granatina Green-winged Pytilia - Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch - Lagonosticta senegala Brown Firefinch - Lagonosticta nitidula Jameson's Firefinch - Lagonosticta rhodopareia (E) Red-headed Finch - Amadina erythrocephala (E) Shaft-tailed Whydah - Vidua regia We had great looks on a morning walk near Etosha of a male in full breeding regalia.

MAMMAL LIST

(E) Chacma Baboon – Papio ursinus Vervet Monkey – Cercopithecus aethiops Scrub Hare – Lepus saxatilis (E) (South African) Ground Squirrel – Xerus inauris Mountain (Damara) Ground Squirrel – Xenus princeps Tree Squirrel – Paraxerus cepapi (E) Dassie Rat – Petromus typicus Black-backed Jackal – Canis mesemelas Banded Mongoose – Mungus mungo Yellow Mongoose – Cynictis penicillata Large-spotted Genet – Genetta tigrina Lion – Panthera leo Tied for mammal-of-the-trip. We had some pretty great lion experiences on this trip in Etosha, including watching seven months-old cubs playing energetically. Leopard – Panthera pardus Tied for mammal-of-the-trip. We saw a beautiful individual sitting in a tree right next to the road in Etosha. We were in the perfect spot when it turned around for perfect views. African Elephant – Loxodonta africana Rock Hyrax – Procavia capensis (E) Hartmann's Mountain Zebra – Equus hartmannae

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 14 www.tropicalbirding.com

Burchell's Zebra – Equus burchellii Black Rhino – Diceros bicornis We saw as many as seven at one time around a single waterhole. Pretty amazing. Warthog – Phacochoerus aethiopicus Hippopotamus – Hippopotomus amphibius Giraffe – Giraffa camelopardalis Kudu – Tragelaphus strepsiceros Bushbuck – Tragelaphus scriptus Roan Antelope– Hippotragus equinus We got lucky seeing a single individual of this rare antelope as we approached the border in Mahango Game Reserve. Gemsbok (Southern Oryx)– Oryx gazelle Red Lechwe – Kobus leche Blue Wildebeest – Connochaetes taurinus Red Haartebeest – Alcelaphus buselaphus Tsessebe – Damaliscus lunatus (Black-faced) Impala – Aepyceros melampus Springbok – Antidorcas marsupialis Damara Dikdik – Madoqua kirkii We had a great experience watching three of these teeny-tiny antelopes at close range as we took an early morning walk in the Erongo Mountains. Steenbok – Raphicerus campestris Bottle-nosed Dolphin – Tursiops truncates (E) Cape Fur Seal – Arctocephalus pusillus

Namibia and Bostwana August-September 2014 15