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Ladakh: 26 May—26 June 2004 Otto Pfister Transversal 1 Este #57-42, Bogota D

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Ladakh: 26 May—26 June 2004 Otto Pfister Transversal 1 Este #57-42, Bogota D Indian Birds Vol. 1 No. 3 (May-June 2005) 57 Ladakh: 26 May—26 June 2004 Otto Pfister Transversal 1 Este #57-42, Bogota D. C., Colombia. Email: [email protected] Introduction improved in the valleys towards end of June, 30: Walk along the river from Leh up to y wife accompanied me on my tenth whereas water level at Startsapuk-Tso Horzey (3,840m). Sunny and warm. Mvisit to Ladakh. The main objectives remained extremely low with the main feeder 31: Leh. Sunny and warm. of this trip included updating Ladakh wildlife streams dry and the spillover connection 1 June: Dropped at Zinchan (3,250m) and records, especially mammal and breeding into Tso-Kar barren. The low water table walked up to Rumbak village (4,000m). bird observations, photography, and offered apparently favorable breeding Cloudy and windy. Rumbak cold and promoting my forthcoming book ‘Birds and conditions to Great Crested Grebes snowing. Mammals of Ladakh’(launched by end of Podiceps cristatus in Startsapuk-Tso where 2-6: Rumbak and surroundings including June 2004). Book promotional activities a remarkably high number of about 100 nests Stock-La base (4,600m), Hussing Nullah forced us to spend excessive time in Leh were counted. In addition, some 30 Black- (4,000-4,500m) and Yurutse (4,200m) town. Our fieldwork, however, concentrated necked Grebes Podiceps nigricollis were towards Ganda-La (4,500m). Generally on areas north of Leh, the Shey-Tikse observed in the same lake about three weeks overcast and windy, cold including snow marshes, the Rumbak area in Hemis National later (M. Ritschard, pers. comm.). Further, showers, but also a few hours of Park, Hemis Shukpachan, Wanla region and perhaps due to the snow-less winter, sunshine. Rupchu, within the latter focusing mainly encounters with lagomorphs (hares and 7: Returned from Rumbak to Zinchan, drove on Chumatang, Yoye-Tso, Sumdo, and pikas) were abnormally low. Ongoing to Leh via Trisul-Tso (3,270m). Overcast Tsomoriri with Thadsang Karu, Puga, Tso- construction of a ‘highway’ between Mahe and rain. Later dryer and windy. Kar and Taglang-La. The planned breeding Bridge and Tsomoriri and the inevitable 8-9: Leh, book promotion. Cloudy, cold. bird survey in Nubra Valley had to be presence of road workers and their camps 10: Towards Kardung-La, blocked at South cancelled following two failed attempts to resulted in considerable litter. This Pulu (4,630m) for the entire day because cross Kardung-La when first we were disturbance could be the probable cause of of snowfall. blocked for an entire day (10.vi) at Pulu absence of some typical species like Tibetan 11: Again towards South Pulu but sent back South by snowfall and again the following Partridge Perdix hodgsoniae, White-tailed because of avalanches. Changed plans day by avalanches. Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis or reduced and continued to Hemis Shukpachan In Leh we stayed at ‘Hotel Snow View’ density of Himalayan Marmot Marmota (3,760m). Morning overcast and cold with at Upper Changspa / Leh (Tel. +91-1982- himalayana. Sprouting grass and barley in light snowfall. Afternoon, while moving 252504/250153; email: snowviewleh@ agriculture fields up in the Rumbak region lower and westwards, improving to sunny hotmail.com), a nicely located, quiet hotel a attracted considerable concentration of and warmer. bit above Leh bazaar, offering cozy rooms, Blue Sheep Pseudois nayaur offering 12: Around Hemis Shukpachan, mainly tasty food and a nice view into Stock Kangri. favorable observation. around Juniper Juniperus macropoda Its owner, David Sonam, is probably one of Highlights of this trip included stands – one of the only places in Ladakh the most knowledgeable persons in town observation of a breeding pair of Black Kite where remaining groves of very old about birds and his diverting chats are full Milvus migrans lineatus in Leh, a Blue- juniper trees can be seen. Sunny and of good stories and useful hints. Tsering fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis at warm. Tashi, my old friend, accompanied us (as Zinchan, my third encounter with the 13: Moved on via Likir, Khaltse to Wanla usual) for fieldwork, taking good care of our sordidus morph of a White-throated Dipper (3,200m). Sunny and warm. well being and keeping his binoculars always at Sumdo (see photo on back cover), the 14: Wanla area. Sunny and warm. within reach. And Dorje drove us safely into fantastic Blue Sheep ‘show’ near Rumbak 15: Returned via Khaltse, Alchi Bridge with all those narrow valleys and plains. In and the very close encounter with two its Stupa and pre-historic animal rock Rumbak we stayed with local people who Tibetan Argali on the slopes of the Tso-Kar carvings, Phyong (3,600m) and Trisul- offered guest-rooms, whereas in the basin. The lush poplar and willow grove Tso to Leh. Sunny, later partly overcast. remaining places we pitched camp. around Zinchan definitely needs greater 16: Leh. Mostly sunny and warmer. Initially the weather was often cloudy, scrutiny by passing observers since this 17: Tikse-Shey marshes. Sunny and warm. cold and windy, but it improved during the spot frequently hosts exciting bird rarities. 18: To Chumatang (4,000m). Slightly second part of our trip and turned warm overcast, cool and windy. towards the end of our stay. The rivers Itinerary 19: Via Yoye-Tso (4,730m) to Mahe Bridge therefore originally carried very little water 26 May: Arrive early morning in Leh (4,050m) and on to Upper Sumdo (4,320m). (especially in the eastern and central parts (3,500m). Rest all day. Sunny morning, Overcast and windy, later heavy rain. of Ladakh), a matter of grave concern for overcast afternoon, windy and cold. 20: Around Sumdo. Weather improving farmers who needed to irrigate their 27-28: Leh, resting, organizing trips and during morning later turning sunny and sprouting barley fields; this drought was permits, book promotion, birding in the warm. due to a very dry winter and prevailing surrounding. Morning partly sunny, but 21: To Tsomoriri (4,600m) via Thadsang unusually low temperatures, preventing cold. Overcast afternoon, with sandstorm. Karu (4,710m) and back to Sumdo. Cloudy- what little snow existed in the upper reaches 29: Shey marshes (3,260m). Sunny and sunny and windy. from melting. Fortunately the situation warm. 22: To Tso-Kar (4,600m) via Puga (4,450m). 58 Indian Birds Vol. 1 No. 3 (May-June 2005) Cloudy-sunny and very windy. males, two females (7.vi), one male (11.vi), hunting dragonflies over ‘fishponds’ in 23-24: Explored the Tso-Kar basin. three males, two females (15.vi) in Trisul- Shey marshes and devouring the catch Generally sunny and warm, but partly Tso. in flight, while its partner called from a windy and cold. Tufted Pochard Aythya fuligula One male nearby poplar tree (29.v) and again (17.vi) 25: By mid-day drove via Taglang-La (7, 11, 15.vi) in Trisul-Tso. presumably the same pair hunting (5,320m) and Miru (3,700m) back to Leh. Common Merganser Mergus merganser dragonflies over the same site; a pair Sunny and warm, turning very windy in One female in Indus at Chumatang; one breeding in old Black-billed Magpie nest the Indus Valley. female in northern Tsomoriri. in poplar tree (c. 12m above ground) after 26: Leh. Rather sunny and considerably Black Kite Milvus migrans lineatus One Shey bridge. Female incubating while warmer than a week earlier. pair breeding in an old Black-billed male, perched on a horizontal branch of 27: Departure for Delhi – with freshly snow Magpie Pica pica nest in a poplar tree the neighbouring tree calls frequently in covered mountain tops bidding fare-well! (c. 8m above ground) in the Leh circuit fast repeated, rising ‘piu-piu-piu…’ house complex (3,600m) – one of the first Saker Falco cherrug milvipes One shy bird Annotated checklists confirmed breeding records for Ladakh. for three days (its established territory?) Birds Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus One above southern edge of Startsapuk-Tso. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Two sub-adult over Rumbak; one adult below Tibetan Snowcock Tetraogallus tibetanus birds in breeding plumage (7, 11, 15.vi) in Stock-La / Hussing Nullah; one bird Two birds heard for three days in the early Trisul-Tso. roosting below southern reach 5km mornings in the upper slopes high above Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus One before Mahe Bridge; one adult at nest Upper Sumdo. pair (incubating) in Yoye-Tso; common with unfledged chick (at eastern reach Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus at Tsomoriri (6+ nests at northern shore); before ascending steep slope towards himalayensis Occasional along the upper common in Startsapuk-Tso (about 100 Yoye-Tso); a pair in spectacular courting hillsides above Rumbak; four birds nests) – pairs mainly incubating, some display flight at Puga-Sumdo (calling a above Yurutse (+ 4,500m); 20 birds below constructing nests and some already with very soft ‘piaa’); one bird at Tsomoriri; Stock-La / above Hussing Nullah chicks. one bird over Startsapuk-Tso; over (4,600m). Grey Heron Ardea cinerea One bird at Yoye- Dibring one bird soaring before and Chukor Alectoris chukar Two birds at Tso. another another immediately north of Horzey / Leh; common to abundant from Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus Common Taglang-La in its roost / nest. Zinchan to Yurutse up to below Ganda- at Thadsang Karu Lake and Tsomoriri Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis One La but also into Hussing Nullah and (with chicks); common (200 birds) in immature below Stock-La / upper especially around Rumbak ‘the Chukor Startsapuk-Tso (some with chicks). Hussing Nullah; six birds soar around capital’; common around Hemis Brahminy (Ruddy) Shelduck Tadorna peaks of northern reach (3km after Likche, Shukpachan, and also around Wanla.
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