Tribute to Classical.... Page 4 SUNDAY, AUGUST 23, 2020 INTERNET EDITION : www.dailyexcelsior.com/sunday-magazine Power of Prayer ...... Page 3 Encroached OLD City Rajan Gandhi each at front and back entry gate of Women College Parade, another one again adjacent to electricity office Parade and Municipalities in were established in the early 19th another one at Kachi Chawni Parking, all within three hun- century during colonial rule itself. The role of Municipalities dred meters, each one less than hundred meters apart. Most in India has remained controversial frequently at the cost of astonishing part is both Women College toilet complexes are quality of life of the citizens. But with passage of time numer- locked, one on Dogra Hall side for years now and one at ous steps in post independence era have been initiated, signif- Parade side waiting for official inauguration much before icant towards official urban planning initiatives to undertake lockdown. Astonishingly Dogra Hall Toilet Complex is built on planned development of towns and cities in the shape of footpath itself on this VIP Road. There is no footpath contin- enactment of the Delhi Development Act 1957 leading to uation after this toilet complex till Secretariat thereby risking establishment of the Delhi Development Authority, followed the lives of pedestrians especially at night when motorists are by establishment of about 300 development authorities for as just blinded by lights of vehicles coming from opposite end many cities or launching of the national scheme such as and pedestrians have no choice except to walk on road. Since IDSMT in the Sixth FYP (1980-85), intended to address criti- this toilet is locked for years now it's better to dismantle it and cal development needs of small and medium towns or publi- clear path for pedestrian. There is a passenger shed at Kachi cation of India's first urbanisation policy in 1988 by the Chawni which has been turned into lime dumping site by JMC National Commission on Urbanisation(NCU) chaired by itself on same footpath. The second toilet complex outside Architect Charles Correa, first to point out the inevitable lead- main gate of Women College, waiting for inauguration, is right ing role of cities in driving forward India's economy and the on the road itself instead of utilising the space to widen the Bazaar to Gumat, even at highly protected Civil Secretariat sons. Another glaring example of misuse of authority is idea of necessity of integrating spatial and economic development of road to decongest this particular chowk. its urban centres or enactment of the 73rd and 74th road at Dogra Hall also depicting the same sad story. Situation construction of shops on cremation site facing city on main The busiest stretch of Jammu, Parade road is virtually at busiest Purani Mandi is more grim as a so called projected road with virtually no parking facility, a disaster for traffic and Constitutional Amendments in 1992 known as Panchayati Raj encroachers' paradise. With a Chanakaya statue and Muscat Act and Nagarpalika Act. These empowered elected represen- park has been turned into dumping site, with all sides people coming for cremation here. Defunct electric cremation light installed right in the centre of road without any planning, encroached by illegal vendors, tandoors, dye vendors, complex is another glaring example of how public money gets tatives of Districts or ULB to undertake economic and spatial virtually one stretch of road is just barred for public. With planned development of villages, towns and cities. But since juice/cigarette vendors, momos, kulchaas, jewellery, dumped into illogical planning. WHO, MHA, MoHFW guide- chains on iron pillars on both sides, this side of main road has footwear, practically what not choking the market with no lines clearly state that Electric Crematorium is the best way land is a state subject, only some states adopted the acts, been turned into private parking with reharis, tea stalls, resulting in slowdowns on the implementation side. The space even to walk. As shopkeepers have totally encroached for last rites of CORONA victims but no efforts have been put restaurant parking, open eating points and what not with drains, there is no visible drain on entire Link Road .Why to explore the possibility of reviving this scientifically 2005-JNNURM launched by the Government of India was the encroachment of main road up to 20 meters. A sign board of first initiative of its kind in terms of the scale of investment of respective departments have repeatedly failed to fix the approved crematorium when administration is running from JMC for no rehari zone and no parking just mocks at citizens. responsibility, take action on one and all will fall in line. pillar to post to perform last rites of COVID victims, eventual- USD 20 billion over a period of seven years. 65 cities were There are two Paan shops right on road, one in between two selected under this initiative and finally in June 2015, the Dangling hundreds of fibre optic cables from Electricity ly on Tawi river bank in open risking everyone's lives. main transformers waiting for a major tragedy and other on and Telephone Department poles is the latest addition to the Not long ago Commissioner of JMC had sacked Government of India initiated the 'Smart City Mission', to footpath. Another sore in the eye and matter of grave concern improve the conditions of 100 cities within five years with an mess created in the Old City as if illegal electric connections Enforcement Inspector for non-reporting and conniving with is leftover building material by JMC contractors on main are not enough. With the weight of these wires poles have violators in carrying out many illegal commercial construc- approved investment of USD 15 billion. The Smart City roads, which ultimately goes into city drains resulting over- Mission idea appears to be the most comprehensive in nature started leaning and if not removed immediately some major tions in the area with plethora of complaints. But why no such flowing drains and floods in low lying areas of Jewel and tragedy in the shape of short circuit/fire is very much in the action on Jammu Old City enforcement officer despite repeat- and serious in terms of intention. College road. Electric poles are lying on roads at Parade for pipeline in coming time. This often damages the poles, ed orders from even Jammu and High Court to clear But as they say every act for betterment of public usually years together with no effort to utilise them at some other obstructs Electricity Department service personnel in attend- footpaths, encroachments and on road parking. Who are these fails in Jammu as encroachments, no planning, no vision, no place. The scene at Rani Park is no different as entire stretch accountability are the hallmark of JMC as every nook and cor- ing the complaints or regular maintenance works or obstructs persons who are planning disaster for old city, if the protec- is occupied by street vendors and reharis. Who has allowed all traffic. Who gave permission to these vendors at first place as ner of Old City just speaks about the official apathy. With these encroachments, where are the civic authorities and tors of law themselves become violators to whom public will absolutely no augmentation in city parking, Old City is a clas- these private telephone cables are wired on electricity/tele- look for justice? Model cities are built with well planned, per- police despite DPL a few meters away. All this cannot happen phone poles without proper authorization as it's a punishable sic case of virtually no facility though false declarations and sistent efforts and not by knee jerk reactions for photo ops. without active collision of politicians, JMC and police. For offence to illegally use these poles? In some cities PDD and tall promises. Despite Master Plan and Smart City Mission what Enforcement officials are employed, where is traffic This is the responsibility of administration and corporators to clearly depicting detailed plans for decongesting Old City BSNL is charging monthly rent of fifty rupees/per pole from police? If authorities can demolish a shop at din of night why these cable/fibre broadband companies. Are there any such work in tandem to create greener pastures, parks, utilities, which includes shifting of Sabzi Mandi at Parade, proposed they are turning blind eye to all these things is beyond one's parking, all basic necessities for a normal healthy life of its cit- parking and shopping mall at this place, multilevel parking charges been levied in Jammu, if not why as BSNL, PDD and imagination. JMC all are cash starved departments? izens but nothing seems to work in Old Jammu City. After near Atal Bihari Vajpayee Chowk or shifting of many govern- Same is the story at City Chowk, Hospital Road and sur- being declared UT, with stricter laws, no political interference ment departments like District Police Lines, Director Health Miseries of Jammu Old City public don't end up here only prisingly main footpath opposite bus stand, just below JMC as one moves down to only available cremation ground at Jogi and least rush due to pandemic situation and lockdown, it's Services and many others for much needed space for parking, office, has been turned into old cloth market. If it is acceptable best time for JMC to act and remove all illegal encroachments toilets, parks and other utilities but nothing has been done Gate where old pyre platforms were demolished for renova- to JMC then days are not far away when whole footpaths of tion but after years together the work is still at standstill, vir- from Old City to justify it being UT, a fragrance of change, a practically on ground. It seems Jammu City Planner's office is |Jammu are turned into shopping footpaths. Scooter/motor- sustainable system. Change is always refreshing especially if just in hibernation mode. Four JMC toilet complexes, one tually no shelter from rain or sun and with no sitting place it cycle are being repaired on main road itself from Ragunath is a nightmarish experience for everyone especially old per- done for betterment of public. Vanishing legacy of Maharaja Rubon Saproo windows fitted with glasses. The building exteriors are reminis- cent of the Eureopean architecture. The palace remained a The royal Dogra dynasty ruled over the erstwhile state favourite palace in winters for the European guests of Dogra court. of Jammu and Kashmir for a period of 100 years and The wooden castle comprises 15 rooms of varying dimen- during their rule they contributed a lot in different sions as well as a central banquet hall with richly crafted Khatamband ceiling and paneled walls of different geometrical fields for the welfare of the state and its people. patterns. It highlights the outstanding skills of the artisans of yore. There are some bedrooms in the palace in which beds and Every Dogra ruler from Maharaja to Maharaja little furniture of the Dogra period was found intact. The bed- had shown keen interest in the development and rooms have fireplaces to keep rooms warm in winters. The infrastructural activities apart from administrative affairs of the weapons used by Maharaja were also found in one room but it state. Besides it, the royal dynasty had erected some monu- was locked for the public view. The palace has a horse stable in ments of historical and archaeological importance. The colleges the underground on one side with its smoky old wooden beams of Amar Singh and SP in , SMHS hospital in Srinagar and timber ceiling. It has been converted into a restaurant. In and SMGS in Jammu, the Raghunath temple, SRHS school fact, the interior presents an astonishing look except rare side Jammu, Women College Parade, SP museum, Banihal cart which is in dilapidated condition. The black granite engraved road, Mirpur- Poonch road and Jammu-Kathu road are few evi- inauguration stone on front wall gave an impression that the dences of the Dogra history and identity. They are perhaps the castle has been renovated in the recent past by the things that come to your mind when you think about Dogra Development Authority and later inaugurated by ex CM Ms architecture and period. Mehbooba Mufti. However, the traces of decay can be found in Many of us know or have heard about the royal palaces and the building and needs immediate attention of the concerned architectural marvels of the Maharaja’s era that are scattered all authorities. over the erstwhile state of Jammu and Kashmir but very few Beyond Srinagar and Gulmarg, there were two famous may be aware of the present condition and status of the monu- palaces built by Maharaja Hari Singh at Akkad and Nambal vil- ments built by him which reflected the rich cultural heritage lages in Anantnag. Besides , a guest house was built by him in a and imperial glory of the state and Dogra dynasty. The last rul- wildlife sanctuary in Pahalgam. But, as of now, none of the ing Maharaja Hari Singh of the princely state had erected some structures of his period stands at the spots. The palace that once beautiful palaces and rest houses particularly in Kashmir for stood at Akkad on Khanabal –Pahalgam road is presently the living purpose of the royal family which used to visit sum- famous as Akkad Park. In this park Maharaja had erected a mer capital during summers to spend hot days in cool environs beautiful palace during his rule and his family members used to of Srinagar, Pahalgam and Gulmarg. He built Hari Niwas stay in it during summers. This palace was known for its engi- Palace, Tara Niwas and Tali Manzal on Gupkar road besides few neering skills and architectural excellence. He has constructed other villas in its neighbourhood where the family lived till trib- a stream in front of the palace known as “trout Nallah” which al invasion. Presently, the Hari Niwas palace is under the contains trout fish and crystal-clear cold waters from river Government control and serving as a State Guest House. It has Lider. In the neighbour hood of the palace he had established a been renovated many times in the past that may have affected trout fish farm which is yet seen opposite side of the park. It is to its original glory. believed that Maharaja also conducted public darbar in this The Gulab Bhavan which is now a luxurious hotel The Lalit palace and listened to the needs of the common man. politician of the period who belonged to the Anantnag district Pahalgam to enjoy the scenic beauty of the area. He had built a Grand Palace was home to the royal family during Maharaja Those who had seen the palace and King have narrated was suspected behind the incident. Although, the key conspira- hut in the overa wildlife sanctuary in Pahalgam for relaxation Pratap Singh’s rule. He constructed the palace in 1910. It was some interesting stories associated with the emperor’s summer tor was not arrested but number of persons linked with differ- during his visit to the habitat of animals. In this forest area he built under the supervision of Janki Nath Madan who had tour to Pahalgam and subsequently his stay at Akkad palace. My ent political parties had been picked up for investigation. enjoyed watching animals, birds and tried to learn about them. attained his engineering degree from Kings College London and aunt Shobawati Raina, an eyewitness who passed away in 2018, Further, it was learnt that number of valuable items had been He never chased animals for hunting. Today, the traces of his was working as a royal engineer in the court of Maharaja. The had told the author that “one fine morning in summers, news of looted during the incident which included valuable carpets, sil- hut can not found there as the department of forest has con- Palace located in the foothills of Zabarvan mountain range and Maharaja and his son’s arrival in the bungalow spread and peo- ver utensils and antique furniture. After the incident, the gov- structed a new hut on the same spot. It is very difficult to imag- overlooking the on the Gupkar road was further given ple of neighbouring villages rushed to see them. About ten thou- ernment constructed a guest house on the same spot in which ine that once the places in Kashmir well-known for Maharaja a splendid look by Maharaja Hari Singh. He decorated, beauti- sand people gathered on the opposite bank of the trout nallah to some items of the old palace were found till 1990. However, this Hari Singh’s bungalows and some other reasons had lost such fied and converted it into an elegantly upscale palace. The inte- have a glimpse of yuvraj who was expected to enjoy guest house also engulfed in fire in 1990.Presently, no traces of popularity with the passage of time clearly indicated neglect riors and exterior look of the mansion was reminiscent of fishing but unfortunately on that day yuvraj was not feeling well the palace can be found on the spot except memories of the and ‘ malicious intention’ to erase every mark of the ruler from native and Eureopean architecture. It also was a testament to and he did not turn up on the spot. The next day, again people great ruler. the soil. luxury, royalty and heritage. But, this palace was soon convert- gathered and yuvraj came out for enjoying fishing. He was wel- Another palace was located at Nambal village in close prox- It is very difficult to imagine about the circumstances which ed into a hotel after Maharaja moved to Mumbai in early fifties. comed by the crowd with loud cheers and flowers.” Another imity of river Lider. This village is located just right side after led to the destruction or complete disappearance of number of First the hotel was taken by Bharat Hotels in 1998 and later the local inhabitant of the nearby village of Akkad said that, “it was crossing the bridge over Lider on Mattan – Aukura road. heritage buildings of the Maharaja’s time and nothing much LaLit group in 2008. actually the palace where number of accords had been signed Nambal is hardly 9 kms away from district headquarter of was done to protect them after he left the state. Sadly, there has Maharaja Hari Singh also erected architectural masterpiece and with the result this village came to be known as Akkad. He Anantnag. This village also had a palace built by Maharaja. He been systematic decline in the historic things that belonged to known as Maharaja’s Palace at Gulmarg hidden among lush also said the Maharaja was an enlightened ruler and his rule had also constructed trout Nallah on the site which is still there his era. On one side some of his palaces had been taken by the green pine trees in which treasure of art and fragile reminders was a golden era as there was at least a say to people in every and received waters from river Lider. The palace built by Government for the use of guest houses and administrative of the glorious past of Dogra ruler are quite visible .This palace case.” Maharaja Hari Singh on the spot housed large immovable prop- offices where on the other side few had been gutted or demol- is a historic monument visited by visitors every year who get erty and antique items. It has been learnt that Maharaj only vis- But, the Akkad palace had a unique history of vanishing as a ished without knowing their historic importance. So, it is duty impressed by its splendid look and edifice. It is a single-storey ited this palace in a day for fishing and hardly had passed any heritage marvel. Usually, it has been learnt that monuments of the government and the concerned departments to locate the palace constructed over an area of 8700 sq ft by Maharaja perished either by natural disastrous or through neglect but this night in the palace.This palace had also finished in fire incident. places where the King had built something. These places can be around first quarter of 20th century. It is entirely a highly dec- palace finished in the fire incident that occurred soon after the Presently, a guest house of the fisheries department is seen on preserved as heritage sites for historic perspective. Heritage is orated wooden structure with stone rarely used except for the Maharaja left the Kingdom. It was believed to be a political con- the palace spot and trout rearing unit. pedestal. The exterior design of the building is magnificent with spiracy to torch the palace in 1953 and the role of one of the top Maharaja was a natural lover. He also loved fishing and very important asset and to protect it is our responsibility as it towering turrets, grand entrance portico and large number of playing polo game. He always used to visit places around helps us to know about our past history and traditions.