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Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains

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Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Naturetrek Tour Report 17 - 26 May 2008 Black Woodpecker by Bob Wills Red-backed Shrike by Bob Wills Rose-coloured Starling by Bob Wills Report compiled by Chris Kehoe Images courtesy of Bob Willis Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Tour Leaders: Chris Kehoe (Naturetrek leader) Daniel Petrescu (Local guide) Mihai Petrescu Dobrogea (Botanist and local historian) Participants: Roger Hussey Marion Hussey Judith Chawner Norma Huston Trevor Maynard Harvey Berry David Cosh John Chesbrough Val Codling Neil Tappin Shirley Hodges George Hodges Steve Palmer Yvonne Allen Roy Bretherick Bob Wills Day 1 Saturday 17th May Outbound to Bucharest; en route to Zarnesti Weather: sunny and hot in Bucharest Our flight took off at 10.45am – about an hour late – after delays at Heathrow. We had a smooth flight to Bucharest and touched down almost on schedule at 3.30pm, local time. Immigration formalities were quick and simple and we soon collected our luggage and met Daniel in the arrivals hall. After a short delay waiting for a replacement bus we set off north towards the Carpathian Mountains at 5.00pm. Our route took us through unremarkable agricultural land for an hour or so before we began to climb into the foothills, stopping for drinks near Sinaia for half an hour. At 8.30pm we arrived at Pension Elena in Zarnesti Village, our base for the first three nights of the tour, and had a little time to freshen up before dinner. Day 2 Sunday 18 May Strimba Valley Weather: dry and mostly sunny and hot apart from some thundery rain for an hour at lunchtime Half a dozen early risers took a stroll through the village towards the nearby national park and were rewarded with Common and Black Redstarts and a Serin before breakfast at 8am. At 9am we set of for a day at Strimba Valley where we arrived 40 minutes later. Within the first 20 minutes we managed to see several Lesser Spotted Eagles and Honey Buzzards rising on the first thermals. We also saw a pair of Great Grey Shrikes working their way along some wires as Woodlarks flitted about and Red-backed Shrikes sat on nearby bushes. © Naturetrek August 08 1 Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Tour Report Moving further up the valley we enjoyed some excellent views of more Honey Buzzards and a few Common Ravens. We had a brief glimpse of Wryneck and Middle Spotted Woodpecker, too. A thunderstorm forced us to retreat to the coach to eat our packed lunches, but as the rain eased off after an hour or so we carried on with our walk up the valley – the highlight being a White-backed Woodpecker. Before beginning our return journey to Zarnesti a few hours later we added several more species to our list, including Lesser Spotted, Great Spotted, Green and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, more Lesser Spotted Eagles, our first Lesser Grey Shrikes and a Corncrake, which called near the road but remained hidden. Back at the pension half of the group had a quick turnaround in order to visit a bear hide in the national park with one of the local rangers, but sadly their vigil proved fruitless. Day 3 Monday 19th May Zarnesti Gorge; Bran area Weather: thundery rain until 9.30am; dry and sunny thereafter With thunder and lightening either side of breakfast, plans for a pre-breakfast stroll were cancelled and we had a slightly delayed departure to nearby Zarnesti Gorge at 9.30am. On arrival it was fine and dry. We watched Common Buzzards and Crag Martins soaring overhead before crossing a small stream and walking up a well- wooded path towards some meadows. The forest here was full of birdsong and our attention was soon attracted to a singing Wood Warbler – we caught a couple of brief views of it. Then we spotted a male Red-breasted Flycatcher that, after a patient wait, posed beautifully at eye level. Up at the meadows we had a good view of the surrounding mountains and Daniel did well to locate a Chamois sitting on a distant crag that gave some good scope views. A Goshawk showed briefly a couple of times here and several Alpine Swifts appeared in the distance. We then returned to the bus, collected our packed lunches and began to walk up the steep sided gorge in search of Wallcreepers. After a considerable amount of scanning we eventually located a couple of male Wallcreepers and got reasonable scope views on and off for 15 minutes. We then returned to the coach with Alpine Swifts hurtling around overhead. Back at Zarnesti Village it was the turn of the other half of the group to try for Brown Bear at the bear hide and this time they were in luck as a male bear appeared and gave some excellent views. Day 4 Tuesday 20th May En route to Tulcea Weather: dry, bright and warm Today was basically a travelling day as we transferred by coach to Tulcea, the gateway to the Danube Delta. We set off at the civilized hour of 9am and initially retraced our route back towards Bucharest before turning east at Ploesti and crossing the wide Baragan Plain. We had lunch at a small poplar plantation at the roadside. A large rookery was in full swing here with some of the nests occupied by Common Kestrels. Overhead, a handful of Red-footed Falcons and a Hobby hawked for insects while some nearby bushes gave us great views of European Bee-eaters and some very showy Golden Orioles, among others. Pressing on, we eventually reached the Danube crossing at 4.15pm and soon after stopped for an hour or so to look for birds at and around a large roadside lake. 2 © Naturetrek August 08 Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Tour Report Highlights here included a pair of Ruddy Shelducks (the only ones we saw), our first Ferruginous Ducks and Purple Herons. A Spanish Sparrow posed on a nearby fence, along with a Red-backed Shrike and Corn Bunting. Arriving at Tulcea at 7pm, we boarded the comfortable floating Hotel that would be our home for the next four nights and were soon settling down to dinner. Day 5 Wednesday 21st May Danube Delta: northern backwaters near Maliuc, Sulina Chanel, Old Danube (east section) Weather: dry, bright and warm After a leisurely breakfast on the floating hotel we packed up our lunch things and set off into the delta. After half an hour we turned off north from the main Sulina Channel. We then spent the rest of the morning exploring backwaters and lakes before meeting the floating hotel, which had been towed to Maliuc Village. Even before we turned off the Sulina Channel the first of the morning’s eight Black Woodpeckers had been seen and we all eventually enjoyed great views of one of these charismatic birds in a bare treetop. As we travelled deeper into the delta the numbers of water birds steadily increased. We saw numerous Pygmy and Great Cormorants and Whiskered Terns and also had our first encounters with Glossy Ibis and many others, including a Little Bittern. Overhead, White Pelicans took to the warming air and a handful of much rarer Dalmatian Pelicans were seen, including a couple of swimming birds as we crossed Lake Furtana where our first Red-necked Grebes were noted. All in all it was a very busy morning! After lunch on the floating hotel the tug pulled us east along the Sulina Channel to our overnight mooring point on a quiet stretch of the Old Danube near Letea. Highlights this afternoon were several hawking Red-footed Falcons and Hobbies, a handful of White-tailed Eagles and a flyby Great Black-headed Gull among the commoner Caspian Gulls. From our mooring we had access to a dyke where a short walk produced distant views of a White-tailed Eagle nest and more Red-footed Falcons and Hobbies. After dinner we were lulled to sleep (or not!) by a frog chorus. Day 6 Thursday 22nd May Danube Delta Weather: mostly dry, bright and warm with a period of light-moderate thundery rain either side of lunch Early risers took a short walk along the dyke near the floating hotel and enjoyed good scope views of a perched White-tailed Eagle, numerous Marsh Harriers and other species. After breakfast we travelled by launch along narrow waterways to Letea Village. Among the many birds seen en route were a Little Bittern perched obligingly as we passed, and a male Penduline Tit that we watched constructing its elaborate nest. At Letea we took a short walk through the village before boarding a tractor-pulled trailer that delivered us to Letea Forest half an hour later. Here Daniel pointed out some of the characteristic plants of the area while the birders enjoyed their first really good views of perched Red-footed Falcons. © Naturetrek August 08 3 Romania's Danube Delta & Carpathian Mountains Tour Report Darkening skies and light rain arrived as we returned towards the launch and we arrived back at the floating hotel just in time to avoid a soaking. Not long after lunch the skies had cleared nicely and we were towed back to the Sulina Channel and westwards to an overnight mooring on the western section of the old Danube near Mila 23. On arriving at our overnight stop we enjoyed views of Black and Whiskered Terns feeding over an area of nearby lily pads and a singing Savi’s warbler was located in the reed-bed opposite.
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