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Somaliland

Why Go? ...... 321 For seasoned travellers in search of a totally unusual travel Las Geel ...... 326 experience, is a must. Where else in the world ...... 328 can you visit a country that doesn’t officially exist? While Sheekh ...... 329 the rest of has been a no-go zone for travellers for two decades, the self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland Burao ...... 330 has restored law and order within its boundaries. Here the ...... 331 safety of Westerners is taken very seriously and foreigners Borama ...... 332 are welcome. Understand Somaliland offers plenty of unexpected and wonderful Somaliland ...... 333 surprises. Admire some exceptional rock paintings, feel History ...... 334 the pulse of the fast-growing capital, walk along deserted The Culture ...... 334 beaches, visit bustling market towns, be awed by stunning Food & Drink ...... 334 landscapes, and blaze a trail of your own in the far east and Survival Guide ...... 335 west of the country – wherever you go, you’ll feel like a pio- Directory A–Z ...... 335 neer. More than anything, though, it is the Somali people who make a visit to the country so memorable, with their Getting There & Away ... 337 legendary sense of hospitality. Getting Around ...... 338

When to Go Best of Culture Hargeisa » Las Geel (p 326 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 10/250 » Berbera (p 328 ) 8/200 » (p 330 ) 30/86 6/150 » Dhagax Khoure (p 333 ) 20/68 4/100 » Maydh (p 332 ) 10/50 2/50

0/32 0 Best of Nature J FDNOSAJJMAM » Daallo Forest (p 332 ) Apr-Sep Rainy Oct & Nov Dec-Mar Best » Giriyad Plains (p 330 ) months make Comfortable weather: very few » Saadedin Islands (p 330 ) travel tough. temperatures rains and cool July/August is make the shoulder temperatures. very hot along the season good for coast. travelling. open. coun- in their officials claim, there is an officials with a free bus connectionwith a free pro- – to the port of Berbera. Wander the Wander Berbera. the port of – to Although security has improved in previously high-risk Arriving in Hargeisa, spend your first day getting orient- getting day first spend your Hargeisa, Arriving in day second your On atmosphere. up the ed and soaking in the morning and take early market visit the livestock touristic via Las Geel – Somaliland’s trip an overnight résistance de pièce check out old town, character-filled Berbera’s of streets fish. on fresh feasting and end the day Baathala beach the capital. to returning you should see three Day Ten Days at a more Geel and Berbera Las Hargeisa, enjoyed Having attempt bold enough to are few where go pace, relaxed four at least Devote province. the Sanaag and book a trip to Alternatively, and Maydh. Forest Daallo Erigavo, to days a and arrange the country of west the far explore could you art taking in the rock Zeila, port of the historic 4WD trip to and Borama Marodi, Dhagax and Khoure Dhagax of sites Har- – from the coast reaching Plains before the Giriyad (return). expedition this is a five-day geisa, ITINERARIES Days Three Safe Travel Somaliland was safe at the time of writing, and our on- Las Geel,the-ground research included Hargeisa, Berbera, and Sheekh, Burao, Erigavo Wajaale, Borama, Zeila, Tog despite what However, Maydh. element of uncertainty regarding the security situation. and order law established The Somalilanders have but as long as their unruly brothers from separatist territory, peace, there for and Southern Somalia don’t settle Puntland will be an element of risk – borders are not terrorist-proof. should carefully monitor the situation Prospective travellers troops after French 2013, late January In off. before setting from fundamen- liberated Saharan cities in northern Mali (FCO) is- Office & Commonwealth talist rebels, the Foreign to Somaliland. sued an advice against all travel areas such as the Sanaag province, check the situation locally in the Sool region is currently un- before heading there. Travel safe due to conflict which claims this province. in Puntland, Entering Entering Somaliland primary has one Somaliland airport international Har- in nearby flights from receives some while Berbera geisa, tries. At the time of writing, Hargeisa airporttime of writing,tries. At the for was closed Hargeisa flights expansion,renovation and and all Hargeisa-bound were diverted to Berbera, Addis There to/from are regular flights vided to Hargeisa. (), Dubai (UAE), Djibouti City Ababa (), Land borders (Kenya). Nairobi and (Somalia) Mogadishu and Djibouti (Loyaada) are Wajaale) (Tog with Ethiopia Local 2522 %

Somali Somaliland Somaliland 3.5 million 3.5 Bring cash Bring cash A$1 C$1 US$1.04 €1 US$0.99 US$1.36 ¥100 US$1.10 NZ$1 US$0.84 UK£1 US$1.58 Single-entry Hargeisa 637,657 sq km sq 637,657

Mobile phones Visas Language Money Currency current exchange rates

» » » » » SIM cards (and top-up (and top-up SIM cards unlocked in OK credits) GSM-compatible Other phones phones. roaming. to be set must (US dollars). One ATM ATM One dollars). (US work- (not in Hargeisa writing); ing at time of generally cards credit accepted. not AT A GLANCE AT tourist visas; see p 337 . 337 p see visas; tourist shilling (SISh); US dol- (SISh); US shilling (US$) lars Police escort per day: per day: escort Police Local- style style Local- meal: US$2 Capital Country Code Population Area 4WD hire per day: US$150 per day: 4WD hire Budget hotel room: US$10 room: hotel Budget

Japan UK Canada Euro Zone New Zealand Australia » » » » » » » » For For see www.xe.com. Budget Set Your US$1 = SISh6500 US$1

Exchange Exchange Rates Fast Facts US$20

HARGEISA SOMALILAND 320