J. fash. bus. Vol. 18, No. 6:137-156 Dec. 2014 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.6.137 ISSN 2288-1867(Online)

A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies

Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen⁺ Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University, Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University⁺

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People’s Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

Key words : fashion image, fashion style, first lady, role type

Corresponding author: Zhang Wen, Tel.+82-62-530-0371, Fax.+82-62-530-1349 E-mail: [email protected]

This study was financially supported by Chonnam National University, 2012. This research was supported in 2014 by the MOE (The Ministry of Education), Republic of Korea, under the BK21 plus project (S13HR15D0801) supervised by the NRF (National Research Foundation of Korea).

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I. Introduction had a great effect on the fashion industry by causing a change in the dynamics of American First ladies exert their influence to leading to fashion. At the same time, she delivered successful governments as a special advisor and President Obama’s political messages and companion of presidents (Yun, 2014). And they communicated with people by utilizing fashion convey images to the public through internal and which is suitable for T.P.O. When President external activities and fashion styles (Youngsam Obama addressed harmony and unity, she wore Kim, Kim, & Jun, 2012). In other words, the first violet clothes which mixed the red of the ladies’ fashion can be used as a criterion to Republican Party with the blue of the Democratic reflect the national economy and cultural level Party. Likewise, when he announced progressive which can be used a tool to show their own political moves he frequently wore blue clothes personality and will. Fashion images which are (Han & Jung, 2011). projected onto their styles have an affect on the More recently, when Chinese first lady, Peng public as the social tastes which produce Liyuan, first appeared, she became an icon individual tastes, sense of closeness, and worldwide by showing elegant and refined styles identification by giving cultural meanings and through the utilization of Chinese dress and values to the public (Sang, 2012). They modern clothes while she was on ceremonial communicate with people and deliver political overseas trips. The Chinese first ladies who had messages to other countries by including their been forgotten for decades since the Cultural husbands’ political tendencies and ideology in Revolution are once again at the forefront of their fashion styles. fashion because of Peng Liyuan. They have The iconic first lady who famously utilized their become the subject of studies on fashion styles. fashion politically was Jacqueline Kennedy. She Many studies on the fashion of the first ladies became the first lady when she was 31 years have been done since then (Chung, 2007; Y. old. She actively utilized her young and fresh Lee, 2011; Han & Jung, 2011; M. Lee, 2013). figure to promote President Kennedy’s There have only been a few studies on role progressive image. Her fashion style was so types and fashion of first ladies such as popular a new phrase ‘Jackie style’ was coined Youngsam Kim et al. (2012), ‘A study on to both domestic and overseas women. She fashion images according to the types of the delivered her husband’s political message, Korean first ladies’ and Yoojung Kim (2009), communicated with people, and had an effect ‘Fashion image related to the role of first lady in on the fashion industry through her own unique Korea and United States of America’. But there image which utilized fashion. have been no studies on the role types and Michelle Obama has utilized fashion in a fashion of the Chinese first ladies. In other similar manner as Jacqueline Kennedy. She is a words, it is necessary to examine how the leader in Cheap-chic fashion. As all the clothes fashion style of the first ladies of China has that she wore were very popular, the designers changed according to different times, based on in the third country who designed the applicable the fashion images. Therefore, the purpose of clothes, including Jason Wu, placed them in the this study is to analyze fashion images ranks of top-notch designers. Therefore, she according to the role types of the Chinese first

138 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies ladies and provide basic data for fashion participate in important decision making (Yun, image-making of first ladies. As for the scope 2014). Many researchers have tried to define the of the study, it was intended for fashion styles roles of first lady, among whom are Karen, worn by 8 first ladies ranging from Soong Bernadette, and Laura (1996), Watson (2000), Qingling who is Sun Wen’s wife in the Republic Gary (2000), Ham (2001), and Choy (2012). of China to Peng Liyuan who is Xi Jinping’s Specifically, Karen et al. (1996) categorized the wife. As for the research method, the precedent first lady's roles into the ceremonial role, the studies on the concepts, role types, and fashion political role, and the policy role. The ceremonial of first ladies were considered by referring to role means a basic role as traditional female the precedent studies and relevant literature. role model by performing the job of the mistress Then a total of 194 collected fashion images of the White House. The political role is to were analyzed, and, for objectivity, three people advise the president on political issues, and act who majored in fashion participated in the study as a political partner. The policy role is directly by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies involved in the administration management and from Chinese governmental Xinhua Telecom’s policy-making by participating in political Internet edition, Xinhuanet (http://www. meetings, to be a chairperson of committees, or xinhuanet.com) and Xinhua Multimedia Data to be interviewed by the press (Karen et al., Bank (新华 多媒体数 据库 ) (http://info.xinhua.org/ 1996). Watson categorized the role as full newphmall/newindex.jsp). partners, behind-the-scenes partners, partners in marriage, and non-partners depending on their relationship with the presidents (J. Park & II. Theoretical Background Yoon, 2008). Gary’s (2000) 6 roles based on the activity and influence were the conscript 1. First Ladies’ Concepts and Role Types which means inactive and distant to the politic, the shield which means they advise and act The term "First Lady" was first used when a passively, the courtesan that means they act female reporter started to call the 19th American aggressively as a politician, the consigliere that President, Rutherford Birchard Hayes means presidents can share political secrets, the (1822-1893)’s wife the first lady in 1877 on her regent which means that they are so powerful husband's Inauguration Day. The term was that they are called the shadow president, and established when the 22nd American President, lastly co-presidents who visibly influence politics Stephen Grover Cleveland (1897-1903) called his and policy. Ham (2001) categorized the roles wife the first lady during their wedding based on intellectual and political ceremony. Now, it is commonly used when professionalism such as the traditional helpmate referring to the wives of presidents and who participates in only official events, a type of governors (Jeoung, 2012). assistant Baegaessok who exercises political The roles of first lady have changed with the leverage indirectly rather than professionally, an times. In the past, their roles were rather active helpmate who performs official activities passive, but at present, they take part in the and political roles without specialty, a type of society aggressively, and sometimes, they strategic withdrawer who only performs official

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activities formally, a type of connecting type. Kim Oksuk and Son Myeongsun played the participant who performs official and political role of the traditional primary responsibility type roles with specialty but does not act as a policy (Youngsam Kim et al., 2012). channel, and finally a type of participatory as This study tries to classify and stereotype role complete partner who aggressively performs types of the first ladies into ceremonial, political, political activities with specialty. Choy (2012), a and policy roles by referring to the studies of political scientist from Hong Kong categorized Karen et al. (1996), which is generally used and the roles as the ambitious style where first also applied to the fashion image study by ladies take over the regime, like Hillary Clinton Yoojung Kim (2009), and was used as a and Nancy Reagan, the benevolent style, where reference for classification. first ladies participates in the public interest, like Betty Ford, the housewife style where the first 2. Studies Related to Fashion of First ladies are faithful to the family like Mammy Ladies Eisenhower and Barbara Bush, and the fashionist style, where the first ladies politically take As for first ladies’ fashion, studies on the advantage of fashion, like Jaclyn Kennedy and American first lady, Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama. Michelle Obama have commonly been done. As Yoojung Kim (2009) who analyzed fashion for the precedent studies, Chung (2007) found images according to the roles of Korean and that Jacqueline Kennedy was much younger than American first ladies classified the first ladies by other first ladies, she expressed her changing dividing them into ceremonial, political, and age well, and was the representative figure who policy roles like classification of the role types realistically expressed ‘the changing American by Karen et al. (1996) So the ceremonial roles women’ with young and bright images. She include Kim Oksuk, Son Myeongsun, Gwon made ideal images of the American high society Yangsuk / Patricia Nixon, Barbara Bush, Laura through the functional, active, and simple things Bush, the political roles do Lee Heeho / which were not excessively decorated while still Jacqueline Kennedy, and the political roles do being suitable for the first lady’s role. She also Yuk Yeongsu, Lee Sunja / Nancy Reagan, and created an opportunity for the US to lead the Hillary Clinton (Yoojung Kim, 2009). On the other fashion world by establishing the American hand, Youngsam Kim et al. (2012) who analyzed fashion images. At that time the American high fashion images according to role types of the society depended on French fashion through ‘A Korean first ladies classified the Korean first study on Jacqueline Kennedy's clothing as a ladies into political counselor type, traditional first lady– in the White House year.’ And Y. Lee counselor type, political primary responsibility (2011) concluded that the design characteristics type, and traditional primary responsibility type. of the Jackie style is simple lines which Francesca played the role of the political excluded ornament and luxurious materials and counselor type. Gong Deokgwi and Lee Heeho as this was the same with the women’s clothing played the role of the traditional counselor type. of minimalism which was popular in the middle Yuk Yeongsuk, Lee Sunja, Gwon Yangsuk played of 1960s, Jacqueline made a great contribution the role of the political primary responsibility to fashion leaders and she created the basic

140 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies frame of the first ladies’ look which have a survey by classifying fashion image according continued after that. Through ‘A study on to roles of the Korean and American first ladies. formation and design characteristic of the Fashion images according to role types has modern first lady look’. Han and Jung (2011) found that natural and elegant fashion images has found that fashion colors of Michelle Obama were high in case of the first ladies who concentrate on Y, R, RB, B, BG, and N through performed ceremonial roles, political roles 'A study on the colors worn by Michelle Obama'. showed high romantic fashion image, and the Y, R, RB, and B were strategically used for first ladies of the policy roles showed the high political meaning. Y was analyzed to display active, intellectual, and elegant fashion images. cheerfulness, pleasant feelings, high ideology, Fashion image items by role have found that a hope, and optimism, RB was done to show significant relation was commonly shown in harmony, B was done to be used as a symbol feminine images. Fashion images by role have of conservatism and the Democratic Party. And found that conservative, elegant, and simple M. Lee (2013) found that Jacqueline presented images were high in the ceremonial role, the new fashion’s criteria and vision to women in elegant image was high in the political role, and the modernism age and furthermore established active, energetic, intellectual, and modern the stereotype of the first lady’s look. Likewise, images were high in the policy role. The Michelle expanded the appearance of the romantic image was commonly shown in the fashion styles of the first ladies through Korean and American first ladies regardless of coordination which communicates with the public roles. The romantic and elegant images in the postmodernism age, moreover, it is continued to be shown in Korea regardless of informal, and breaks down formality. the age, and romantic, intellectual fashion Furthermore, she presented the look of images were shown in the US. communication that the new age wants as the Moreover, Youngsam Kim et al. (2012) found first lady through ‘The comparative study of the that Francesca is the political counselor type first ladies' Fashion style from a perspective of and expressed androgynous and simple fashion modernism and postmodernism: centering around images, Gong Deokgwi is the traditional Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama’. counselor type and showed the modern and On the other hand, Yoojung Kim (2009) and refined fashion image, Yuk Yeongsu is the Youngsam Kim et al. (2012) as the studies political primary responsibility type and preferred related to fashion according to role types of first the styles which emphasized feminine and ladies. Yoojung Kim (2009) has found that the graceful fashion images in the result which first ladies’ fashion images were stereotyped into studied the fashion images according to role five categories: active (active, strong, energetic, types of Korean first ladies. Lee Sunja is the vivid, splendid, and characterful), romantic political primary responsibility type and (romantic, feminine, elegant, and luxurious), expressed the splendid and refined fashion natural (natural, simple, comfortable, simple, and image, Kim Oksuk is the traditional primary practical), intellectual (intellectual, modern, responsibility type expressed the elegant and refined), elegant (elegant, conservative, and polite images, Sun Myeongsun is the traditional traditional) the results were found by the use of primary responsibility type and expressed

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classical, bright, and graceful fashion images, Classic image refers to traditional the image that Lee Heeho is the traditional counselor type and has been popular for a long time without being showed the practical fashion images, and Gwon influenced by the trend; elegant image means Yangsuk is the political primary responsibility sophisticated and graceful images; feminine type and expressed the bright and splendid image means womanly, delicate, and soft image; fashion image. Through these analyses, the ethnic image means simple and ethnically Korean first ladies usually wore jackets and characteristic image; and avant-garde image skirts of the usually classical image as the basic means unique and the image which can be seen clothes of western clothes and their tendencies ingenious and trendy style; sporty image means and images were reflected in their styles active and simple style; mannish image means a including silhouettes and colors based on their style that adds masculine elements to feminine roles and types. The materials of the clothes fashion to create a new type of femininity; and were diversified and colors were bright in the modern image refers to minimalistic and latter part. Youngsam Kim, Kim, & Jun(2014) sophisticated style (H. Park et al., 2006). found that the esthetic characteristics shown in the clothes of the Korean first ladies are femininity, simplicity, elegance, and tradition. III. Roles and Fashion of Chinese Feminity was expressed through the A silhouette First Ladies which emphasized curvaceous women or ornament effects. Simplicity was shown through As mentioned above, the word "First Lady” H silhouette of the straight type or single colors was used in 1877 at the inauguration of the with high chroma. Elegance was expressed 19th present of America. In China, Soong through long skirts or silhouettes which added Qingling, the wife of Sun Wen, the founding understated curvaceousness, materials of woolen father, was called first lady for the first time in stuffs, knitwear, and velvet, and harmony of 1915 (Ewha Womans University Chinese warm and soft colors. Tradition was expressed Women’s history Laboratory, 2005) followed by by utilizing materials which reflected history, Soong Mayling, the wife of Chiang Kai-shek. colors, or detailed ornament elements. After the People's Republic of China was As described above, fashion images show the founded in 1949, Jiang Qing (Mao Zedong’s taste and aesthetics of individuals, provide a wife), Wang Guangmei (Liu Shaoqi’s wife), cue for self-expression in a short time, play an Zhuo Lin (Deng Xiaoping’s wife), Wang Yeping important role in evaluating other people, and (Jiang Zemin’s wife), Liu Yongqing (Hu Jintao’s are also so influential it can determine success wife), Peng Liyuan (Xi Jinping’s wife) have and failure of an individual (Jeoung, 2012). appeared. Jiang Qing could not perform first Therefore, in this study, based on H. Park et al. lady’s duty between 1949 and 1959, when Mao (2006) and Yun (2014), fashion images were Zedong’s early days were not recognized as classified into 8 images– classic, elegant, official government business, but she started to feminine, ethnic, avant-garde, sporty, mannish, participate in diplomatic events as a first lady in and modern images– to analyze fashion images 1962. In the case of Zhuo Lin, even though of the first ladies according to the role type. Deng Xiaoing was not the president of China

142 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies between 1983 and 1993, he had real power. became vice president twice. She was also a Therefore, she is regarded as a first lady. feminist. Considering the political activities of Soong Quingling, she can be classified as a first 1. First Ladies during the Republic of lady who played a policy role. China (1912-1949) She usually wore qipao, not only traditional styles but also modified her clothes include to 1) Soong Qingling western styles. Her picture (Figure 1) preserved in Sun Wen’s old house shows that her qipao is Soong Qingling (1893-1981), the first first lady H line style with natural shoulder lines decorated of the republic of China, was a modern women with flower patterns around the neckline and who studied in America for 8 years. She was sleeves by traditional technic. She produced patriotic and interested in politics. She was once traditional and elegant style with feminine qipao. a secretary of Sun Wen and was able to display Figure 2 pictures Soong Quingling and Sun Wen her superior English skill and work performance. in 1921. She wears a two pieced qipao that was After she got married to Sun Wen in 1915, she popular in 1920s, which features the collars up became his political supporter and a to the neckline and wide bell sleeves, no revolutionist. After Sun Wen passed away, she patterns, and wide H line. She is holding a tried to make her late husband’s ideology come western style hand bag. Figure 3 is her wedding true. Criticizing corruption and the picture taken in Japan. In the picture, she wears anti-democratic policy of the Chinese Nationalist a western dress with flat collared jacket and Party, she joined the Communist Party of China. Ankle-length long flare skirt. She also wears a She actively protested Chiang Kai-shek's capeline hat. suppression of the Communist Party, and

Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 3. Soong Qingling, 1918 Soong Qingling and Sun Wen, The wedding picture Soong - http://news.xinhuanet. 1921 Qingling and Sun Wen, 1915 com - http://sszx.org.cn - http://news.ifeng.com

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2) Soong Mayling patterns but also the modified ones with draping patterns that were popular in the 1940s (Figure Soong Mayling (1987-2003), Chiang 4). The picture (Figure 5) preserved in Mayling Kai-shek's wife, is Soong Qingling’s sister. She Palace in Nanjing shows her typical fashion was educated in America longer than her sister. style. She wears a modified sleeveless qipao She spoke 7 languages, including English, with a busy flower pattern. She emphasized her fluently. Because she was very ambitious about feminine look with tight x line silhouette that power and politics, she performed the role of highlights her waist line, and added a noble Kai-shek's secretary even after she was married image with earrings and jewelry rings in both to him. She was actively involved in many fields hands. In Figure 6, she visits some attractions including politics, diplomacy, military, woman with her husband during the Keino Meeting. She right, and education. Moreover, she was so wears a qipao and jacket, which shows a tight good at diplomacy that she received American silhouette. With modern fashion accessories like aid during the war against Japan. With this sunglasses, pearl earrings, broach, and high contribution, she is considered as the leader of heels, she looks sophisticated and luxurious. modern women. Time magazine described her She was a fashion leader who adopted both as 'a flower made of steel'. Soong Mayling, who western and eastern styles. went on to the front line when China was undergoing the most chaotic period, can be 2. First Ladies during the People's classified as a first lady who played a policy Republic of China (1949-) role. She owned countless qipao (Xu, 2014). She 1) Jiang Qing possessed not only traditional ones with flat

Figure 4. Figure 5. Figure 6. Soong Mayling’s qipao Soong Mayling’s picture Soong Mayling and Chiang displayed in Nanjing Museum displayed in Meiring Palace in Kai-shek Sightseeing during (南京博物院 ), 2014 Nanjing Keino Meeting Attendance, 1943 - http://www.sxdaily.com.cn - http://baike.baidu.com - http://tw.people.com.

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Jiang Qing(1915-1991), Mao Zedong’s wife, mostly green and navy colors, and the material was an actress, but she was politically was practical cotton. Jiang Qing also enjoyed ambitious. At the time she was married to Mao wearing these two. Figure 7 shows Jiang Qing Zedong, the Chinese government asked her not in the military uniform, and the coat on the to be involved in any political activities because uniform was a part of military uniform. As shown this was her 3rd marriage. However, she started in Figure 8, she wore Mao jackets when she political activity as a wife of the president in watched a play in the theater with President 1962, and after then she actively joined many Nixon. It is navy color with a Mao Zedong political events as a prominent leader. In 1966, badge. The Mao jackets in Figure 9 were the Cultural Revolution occurred. During the next designed simply without shirring or accessory. 10 years, the Chinese economy collapsed, and She holds only a practical bag. These clothes the country and people experienced a terrible reflect her society, and she did not show her period, while she was acting as a leader. feminine characteristics. Instead, she showed her Because of this, she was sentenced to death political ambition and powerful image. after Mao Zedong died. Because of Jiang Qing’s influence, for some time, Chinese first ladies 2) Wang Guangmei were tacitly limited in their political activities, and, in that sense, Jiang Qing is classified as a Wang Guangmei(1921-2006), Liu Shaoqi’s first lady who played a policy role. wife, due to the influence of her father, wanted In 1960s, all aged people wore military to study in Japan, but she was invited to the uniform and Mao jackets for social and communist party of China as an interpreter. economic reasons. Mao jacket's colors were Later, she was married to Liu Shaoqi, and

Figure 7. Figure 8. Figure 9. Jiang Qing in Military Uniform Jiang Qing Watching a Play with Jiang Qing Watching a Play with Meeting Red Guards, 1966 Richard Nixon, 1973 Mexican First Lady, 1972 - http://zhanghong82110. - http://book.ifeng.com/ - http://book.ifeng.com/ blog.163.com/blog/static/8118786 dutu/detail_2011_07/07/7498830_8 dutu/detail_2009_10/20/298655_5. 620141131742846/ .shtml shtml

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became his secretary. After she became first 3) Zhuo Lin lady in 1955, she played some political roles such as interpreting when visiting foreign Zhuo Lin (1961-2009) was married to Deng countries. She became the first First Lady to Xiaoping’s during the Sino-Japanese War. She visit a foreign country in 1963. Therefore, Wang followed her husband to the battlefields as a Guangmei can be classified as a first lady who secretary, but after the nation was established, played a political role. her husband, who became a high ranked In 1963, when she visited Indonesia, she wore official, asked her 'Not to work in public' and a short sleeved qipao (Figure 10). Wearing a 'Not represent herself in front of the public'. tight white qipao with no patterns gave a neat Therefore she only performed official tasks, and and elegant image, and with a handbag she helped her husband behind the scene. She was completed the modern style. She wore similar awarded ‘Impressing China’ in 2009. Zhuo Lin cloths when she visited the Philippines (Figure Lin is classified as a first lady who played a 11). She also enjoyed wearing a qipao in ceremonial role. domestic events. She showed off her feminine She liked asexual and humble styles rather look by wearing a light colored modified qipao than the feminine and splendid image. During which is calf length and handbag (Figure 12) her first visit to Japan as first lady, she wore a when she attended the Myanmar Defense traditional “Daegum (對襟 )” green jacket and suit Minister, U Ne Win’s welcoming ceremony. pants (Figure 13). Her shiny jacket with abstract As shown below she expressed her feminine patterns was decorated with traditional knot look by wearing qipao that highlights her waist buttons. She wore a grey pants suit, which had line, and completed her style with a handbag as a simple design with a boxy silhouette(Figure a fashion accessory. 14). When she visited the US, she wore a

Figure 10. Figure 11. Figure 12. Wang Guangmei Visiting Wang Guangmei Visiting Wang Guangmei attending Indonesia, 1963 Philippines, 1963 Myanmar Defense Minister, U Ne - http://news.163 - http://info.xinhua.org/ Win’s welcoming Ceremony, 1965 .com/ newphmall/newindex.jsp - http://info.xinhua.org/

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Figure 13. Figure 14. Figure 15. Zhuo Lin Visiting Japan, 1978 Zhuo Lin Visiting Japan, 1978 Zhuo Lin Visiting U.S.A, 1979 - http://news.ifeng.com - http://news.takungpao.com - http://info.xinhua.org/ black boxy coat and brown straight pants with a when she visited the US. She wore an H practical handbag. She pursued a classical and silhouette formal suit similar to Zhuo Lin’s. She traditional style (Figure 15). wore a simple blue jacket with black collars and grey pants. A brooch was the only accessory 4) Wang Yeping the used. In Estonia, she wore a pastel toned violet boxy skirt suit, which is categorized in the Wang Yeping (1928-), Jiang Zemin’s wife, traditional and classic style (Figure 18). graduated from Shanghai University of Foreign Language, and got married to Jiang in 1951. 5) Liu Yongqing Before she became first lady, she worked for Shanghai Electric Science Research Institute for Liu Yongqing, Hu Jintao’s wife was born in decades as an office staff worker and secretary. Chongqing in 1940, and later she entered After she became first lady, she was not Tsinghua University in 1959. She was married to interested in political activity, and she disliked Hu JIntao, who was her classmate, in 1970. She being in public. Because she had a cervical was not originally interested in politics, but after vertebrae disease, she focused on household she became first lady, she actively participated chores rather than participating in political in political and diplomatic events, sometimes in events. In other words, Wang Yeping was a first place of her husband. Therefore, Liu Yongqing lady who played an ceremonial role. can be classified as a first lady who played a She usually wore formal suits in official political role. events. In Figure 16, she wore a Mao suit when She usually wore skirt suits with Chinese she was visiting Myanmar. She expressed traditional features. Almost all her clothes had classical style through a neat and simple design. traditional features such as traditional patterns, In Figure 17, she was with Mr. and Mrs. Bush Chinese collars and knot buttons. She used vivid

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Figure 16. Figure 17. Figure 18. Wang Yeping Visiting Myanmar, Wang Yeping Visiting U.S.A, Wang Yeping Visiting Estonia, 2001 2002 2002 - http://info.xinhua.org - http://news.ifeng.com - http://info.xinhua.org

Figure 19. Figure 20. Figure 21. Liu Yongqing Arriving Costa Liu Yongqing Attending Liu Yongqing Visiting Denmark, Rica, 2008 Welcoming Ceremony of 2012 - http://info.xinhua. Shanghai World Expo, 2010 - http://info.xinhua.org/ org/newphmall/newindex.jsp - http://info.xinhua. newphmall/newindex.jsp org/newphmall/newindex.jsp colors more often than other first ladies. Figure party of the Shanghai Expo. She wore a pink 19 shows Liu Yongqing visiting Costa Rica. She skirt suit, with knot buttons on the jacket to is in a blue and orange checkered H line skirt express the traditional China image. Figure 21 is suit with Chinese collars, which represent the when she visited Denmark. She is in a red skirt, traditional Chinese image, and a simple and she introduced the traditional China image handbag. In Figure 20, she is at the welcome through Chinese collars and patterns. The overall

148 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies silhouette is straight, which is similar to other Liyuan can be classified as a first lady who first ladies of the People's Republic of China. played a political role. Her traditional Chinese fashion became so 6) Peng Liyuan popular that what she clothes sold out (Yaung & Kwak 2014). Her various styles have contributed Peng Liyuan (1962-), Xi Jinping’s wife, was a to improving the Chinese image. Her unique popular singer from Jinanagungu Jeonwi style created a moniker called “Peng Liyuan Entertainment, and earned a master’s degree in Style”. At her first trip abroad, she introduced ethnic vocal music for the first time in China. Chinese style to the world. Figure 22 is when Before she became first lady, she was in the she attended the Tanzania Airport Welcome entertainment business as a singer, and she Ceremony. She wore a jacket with a Chinese also spent a lot of time on public works and collar and an ankle length skirt. The two pieced charity works. She was an activist on the suit is overall white and the scarf is sky blue, prevention of tuberculosis, the prevention and which makes the fashion not boring. Unlike the cure of AIDS, and she was active in the WHO boxy silhouette, which former first ladies and the Chinese Ministry of Heath. She is loved enjoyed, her suit is tight around the waist, which by Chinese people. After she became first lady, emphasizes a woman’s glamorous figure. In she not only helped her husband by participating Figure 23, she is attending the 50th anniversary in diplomatic events but also played a role in concert celebrating the formal ties between politics. The Xinhua News Agency predicted that China and France. She wears a traditional qipao she will be the best First Lady and will be an with a tailcoat, which is typical of western international role model for children, women and dress. This shows a unity of tradition, modern, the elderly (I. Park, 2013). Therefore, Peng and the western and eastern worlds. Figure 24

Figure 22. Figure 23. Figure 24. Tanzania Airport Welcome Peng Liyuan Attending 50th Peng Liyuan Attending Beijing Ceremony, 2013 Formal Ties Anniversary Concert Culture Sightseeing, 2013 - http://info.xinhua.org between China and France, 2014 - http://info.xinhua. - http://weibo.com org

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shows the first lady, who is attending a Zhuo Lin was the first lady who silently welcoming ceremony for the Venezuelan helped her husband by performing ceremonial president. She wears a dark brown tailored roles only. She utilized beige colors of H jacket and light pink flare skirt with same color silhouettes or pant suits of achromatic colors corsage and a thin belt that emphasizes her including gray and black. As for her jackets, she waist line. She completed the feminine style by utilized white shirts and suits or coats without wearing accessories like pearl earrings and a patterns or achromatic colors. In the case of handbag. clothes with patterns, she utilized Chinese traditional patterns. She scarcely wore accessories except practical handbags. Taking Ⅳ. Fashion Images according to this into consideration, her styles did not show Role Types of the Chinese First feminity but completed an androgynous and dignified styles which can be defined as a Ladies mannish style. Wang Yeping was the first lady who was Based on Karen et al. (1996) and Yoojung faithful to family life by just assisting her Kim (2009), role types of Chinese first ladies husband simply instead of participating in the were classified into ceremonial, political, and political activities actively. She utilized box-typed policy roles. Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping were jackets without patterns. She emphasized classified as an ceremonial role; Wang feminity more than Jhuo Lin by utilizing various Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan a chromatic colors including beige, blue, light political role; Soong Qingling, Soong purple, etc. In case of pants, she preferred Mayling, and Jiang Qing a policy role as a first H-line silhouettes but wore skirts together lady. In this chapter, based on relevant literature instead of pants. She expressed feminity by (H. Park et al., 2006). and previous study (Yun, putting simple accessories like a brooch on. Like 2014), fashion images were classified into eight this, she expressed the classical image through images– classic, elegant, feminine, ethnic, simple and gentle styling with basic items. avant-garde, sporty, mannish, and modern As above, the Chinese first ladies who images– and fashion image of the first ladies performed ceremonial roles showed the mannish according to the role type were analyzed. and classical images. This accords with the natural images which can be shown in the 1. Ceremonial Role: Zhuo Lin, Wang simple, comfortable, and practical styles that is Yeping highest in the fashion image of the first ladies who performed a ceremonial role according to As examined before, the ceremonial role the research of Yoojung Kim (2009). means that first ladies perform their roles as the lady of the house who is faithful to the 2. Political Role: Wang Guangmei, Liu, traditional feminine image. The Chinese first Yongqing, Peng Liyuan ladies who performed this role include Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping. The political role means that first ladies give

150 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies political advice to their husbands and utilizing fashion politics well and makes a great furthermore, are active as political companions. contribution to the improvement of the national The first ladies who performed this role include image. She wore many Chinese clothes in the Wang Guangmei, Liu, Yongqing, and Peng diplomatic stage and preferred modern clothes Liyuan. which combined Western and Eastern styles. Wang Guangmei was the first lady who first Qipao is the item which is most shown in her participated in an overseas trip. She played the Chinese clothes and shows the harmony of secretarial role of her husband during the Western and Eastern clothes by adding Chinese overseas trip. She showed the graceful and traditional cultural elements in Western silhouette. elegant images by wearing a bright Chinese When she put on suits, she kept the refined and dress without patterns which were not splendid modern style and showed a combination of whenever she appeared on the diplomatic Western and Chinese costume culture by adding stages. Especially, she emphasized refined Chinese traditional cultural elements including feminity by utilizing improved Chinese dress trading patterns and Chinese collars in the which shows her waist and hips well instead of details. She showed her modern and refined traditional patterns. Handbags and shoes which image with the feminine and soft feelings when coordinated with Chinese dress give unity to her she expresses modern styles. She strategically style by using bright colors. Like this, Wang used accessories including earrings, handbags, Guangmei’s fashion style which expressed scarfs, and broaches to express her various dignified and elegant feminity through refined styles according to T.P.O. She showed much and graceful styles can be the elegant image. more social graces than other first ladies. Liu Yongqing was the first lady who actively Because of this, it is understood that she participated in the political and diplomatic utilized elegance, feminity, and traditional beauty, activities and represented her husband as a and modern beauty to meet T.P.O. This is due political companion. She preferred suit styles to the fact that Pen Liyuan utilized fashion as a with Chinese elements. The traditional elements political means like Jacqueline Kennedy and including Chinese colors, Chinese knot buttons, Michelle Obama have done in the U.S.A. and traditional patterns were added in her As above, the fashion images of the Chinese jackets and she wore decent H-line skirts first ladies who performed the political role are without patterns. As for colors, she wore the various types including elegance, classical same colors on her jackets and skirts. She used images which added traditional elements in it, strong chromatic colors including green, orange, elegance which meets T.P.O., feminine classical pink, and dark red. Like this Liu Yonqing images, modern images, and ethnic images. expressed the fashion style which added These are different from the romantic images Chinese national traditional images in the basic, which can be shown in the feminine, elegant, decent, and classical images. and luxurious styles that were highest image as Peng Liyuan is the first lady who helps her the first ladies’ fashion images in the research husband by participating in the political and results of Yoojung Kim (2009). It is thought to diplomatic activities actively. Especially, she be because the society’s cultural backgrounds promotes her husband’s political ideology by as well as the first ladies’ individual tastes.

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Wang Guangmei could comparatively utilize patterns. Soong Qingling’s fashion style improved Chinese dress which emphasizes expresses feminine and soft images to show a feminine beauty or the Western fashion feminine image. accessories including handbags because she Soong Mayling was active in political activities was not influenced by the period as the first in many fields as the first lady who studied in lady who was active before the Cultural the U.S.A. and was active as a lobbyist in the Revolution. On the contrary, Liu Yonqing could U.S.A to promote national interest. She preferred not help using humble and classical clothes only improved Qipao dress unlike Soong Qingling. because she was active after the Cultural She left nothing to the imagination by Revolution. However, unlike the previous first emphasizing the female body line with a tight ladies, Peng Liyuan can express the various Qipao dress, and she wore a Chinese dress images which are different from the previous which was reinterpreted as the modern and first ladies due to the social and cultural refined image by utilizing a sleeveless Chinese background which can actively utilize fashion. dress escaping from the conservative style. She also wore a qipao dress with jackets or coats 3. Policy Role: Soong Qingling, Soong with an influence of Western clothing culture. Mayling, and Jiang Qing She expressed the luxurious style by utilizing modern and splendid accessories. Therefore, The policy role means that first ladies attend Soong Mayling’s style was ahead of her time by cabinet meetings, take the chair, or directly utilizing the Western and Eastern fashion styles participate in governmental operation and properly and producing a modern image. political decision through press conferences. The Jiang Qing was very much interested in first ladies who performed the policy role include politics and was active in political activities for Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing. almost 10 years as the leader of the Cultural Soong Qingling was active as her husband’s Revolution. Because of the historic period, she supporter of thought and a revolutionist as the mainly wore Mao jackets and military clothes modern woman. Her key item was the traditional and preferred a pragmatic style without Qipao dress. She used loose fit clothes that did accessories. She expressed a style which not cling to her body and bright colors and emphasized practicality without any ornament. flower patterns which were not splendid. She Colors were all the navy color of Mao jackets utilized a small Western handbag as an and the green of military uniforms. Cotton was accessory wearing the two-piece suit of qipao just used as the material. Therefore, Jiang dress which consists of a bright jacket and a Qing’s decent style, which does not show dark skirt. Like this, when she wore qipao dress, feminity, is the mannish style. she expressed the soft styles which shows As stated above, the Chinese first ladies who feminity to express tradition and feminity. And performed the policy role showed the feminine, when she wore Western clothes, she modern, and mannish images. This does not emphasized feminity and purity by wearing A line accord with the active images which can be flared skirt which do not show their body line seen in the strong, active, vivid, splendid, and with capeline huts and lace collars with flower characterful styles that is prominent in the first

152 Lee Misuk∙ Zhang Wen / A Study on the Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies ladies’ fashion styles of the policy role in the the political role were Wang Guangmei, Liu, research result of Yoojung Kim (2009). Soong Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan. And the Chinese Qingling and Soong Mayling showed the different first ladies who performed the policy role were fashion images even though they are the same Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing. role type as the first ladies because of their The first ladies of the Republic of China individual tastes. Both of them utilized modern expressed classical styles with traditional qipao styles. But in case of Soong Qingling, she dress and wore Western dress a like coat and sought the soft feminine image and Soong May jacket together due to the Western influence. ling displayed a sexy and refined image. In case They completed the style which coordinated of Jiang Qing, it is thought that she could not Western clothes with Eastern clothes. On the show the fashion style according to individual other hand, the more colorful clothes and more fashion tastes or role types because of the accessories of the first ladies of the Republic of effect of the Cultural Revolution. China were shown in the latter part and styles As examined above, the fashion images of the were mannish and classical and then changed first ladies who performed the ceremonial, to various images according to T.P.O. After political, and policy roles cannot be combined Zhuo Lin, the Chinese first ladies have tended into one. This is thought to be because there to combine Chinese traditional clothing elements are differences in fashion styles due to the with the Western clothing elements as well as effect of historical background or individual the styles which combined the Western clothes tastes. with the Eastern clothes as they have changed The results of the analysis on the fashion to be modern. images differentiated depending on the types of Second, the Chinese first ladies were largely the responsibilities of the Chinese first lady found to wear two-piece suits or feminine qipao discussed above are summarized as Table 1. dress. The Chinese first ladies who performed the ceremonial role a showed mannish and classic image. The Chinese first ladies who Ⅴ. Conclusion peformed the political role showed the various images of elegance, the classical images which First ladies are the representatives of countries added traditional elements in clothes, and the and their fashion styles reflect their own fashion image which meets T.P.O. It is thought to be and promote national images externally. The because of the society’s cultural background as Chinese first ladies’ fashion, which previously well as the first ladies’ individual tastes. did not receive attention from the public, was Finally, the Chinese first ladies who performed once again brought to the forefront thanks to the policy role showed the feminine, modern, Peng Liyuan. Therefore, this study analyzed the and mannish images. There are differences Chinese first ladies’ clothes and examined their between the fashion styles of Soong Qingling fashion images according to role types. and Soong Mayling because of their individual First, the Chinese first ladies who performed tastes. In case of Jinag Qing, she could not the ceremonial role were Zhuo Lin and Wang show her fashion style according to individual Yeping. The Chinese first ladies who performed fashion tastes, personality, or role types because

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Table 1. Fashion Images according to the Role Types of the Chinese First Ladies

The most The first lady Historic Fashion Role Design Fashion preferred (Year/President ) period trend type feature image design Traditional qipao, Soong Qingling Democratic Feminine designs two-piece Feminine (1915-1925 / revolutionary Traditional qipao Policy role with floral patterns qipao, image Sun Wen) movement or without patterns Western clothing

Soong Mayling War of Modified qipao Modified Glamorous Modern (1927-1949 / resistance under the influence Policy role qipao, materials and tight image Chiang Kai-shek) against Japan of Western clothes coat, jacket silhouettes

Undecorated Jang Qing The cultural Mao jackets and Military suit, designs that Mannish (1962-1976 / Policy role revolution military uniforms Mao jacket emphasize image Mao Zedong) practicality

Foundation of Wang Guangmei Qipao in light the People's Modified qipao and Modified Elegant (1959-1966 / Political role colors without Republic of Mao jackets qipao image liu Shaoqi) patterns China Achromatic Zhuo Lin Reform and Suits under the Ceremonial designs that Mannish (1976-1993 / opening-up influence of Pants suit role emphasize image Deng Xiaoping) Western clothes ()改革開放 practicality Economic Wang Yeping planning and The punk style and Ceremonial Mao jacket Classic (1993-2002 / Boxy suits development the ethnic style role skirt suit image Jiang Zemin) ()经济建设

Liu Yongqing Modernization The Korean Designs applying Classic (2003-2013 / construction style(韓流 ) and the Political role Skirt suit traditional Chinese image Hu Jintao) ()现代化建设 street style elements

Chinese chic Styles that Modern Peng Liyuan Styles showing dress, combine traditional Ethnic revival image, (2013- / individuality and Political role modified Chinese and elegant Xi Jinping) ()民族复兴 quality qipao, Western clothing image jacket, skirt elements

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Received (November 25, 2014) Revised (December 16, 2014) Accepted (December 19, 2014)

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