Oakbrook Business Review Vol. 4, No. 2, October, 2018, pp. 25-32
Masculinity in Metro-sexuality expressed in Indian television advertisement for men's personal care products Falguni Shelani & Dr. Neelima Ruparel
Abstract Skin care which was predominantly an exclusive category for women is no more an exclusive category as the globalised trend of metro- sexuality is catching up the Indian urban men too. Men's grooming products category which includes skin care is currently of size INR 16,800 crore and is expected to grow at a 45% CAGR (Compounded annual growth rate) as per ASSOCHAM report.. Emami, the initiator of men's skincare products, started Emami Fair & Handsome in 2005, and since than many companies came up with similar products. In India men's skincare category is as nascent as thirteen years but due to rising disposable income and increased visibility to metro-sexual culture, this category is expected to grow at a double digit rate. Shaving products are major contributor of men's grooming category followed by deodorants and skincare & hair-care. As men's skincare is a new category and not much explored, it becomes desirable to explore. 'Metro- sexual', the buzzword is a combination of two words, metropolitan and sexual, and was coined by Mark Simpson in 1994. Metrosexual refers to men living in urban area, attracted to women sexually and spending good amount of time and money for his appearance. Whereas Masculinity is a characteristic of men. Masculinity is not a natural attribute but a social quality and is the result of culture. Traditionally skincare is a feminine attribute;although metro-sexual phenomena is spreading quickly in Indian market and it is felt that usage of skincare products might challenge traditional masculinity. The brands targeting men are also very conscious in their communication and promotion.The objective of this research paper is to highlight the ndings of a research study that attempts to identify whether Masculinity in Metro-sexuality is expressed in Indian television advertisements specically for men's personal care products. It tries to evaluate the tone of the advertisements with special reference to masculinity. This typical study has focused on different television advertisements broadcasted in India for men's face wash and these advertisements have been analysed with the help of Content analysis as a research tool.
Keywords: Masculinity, Metro-sexuality, Television Advertisements, Men's personal care products
INTRODUCTION segment is very nascent and new in India. Emami Ltd is the pioneer of this segment with launch of The female consumer dominated personal care Emami Fair & Handsome, fairness cream for men industry is now partially shared by male as well. A in 2005 with brand ambassador Shah Rukh Khan study from ASSOCHAM highlights that male (Hindi lm Industry-Bollywood Actor). Many grooming industry which is currently is of size of domestic and international companies like INR 16, 800 crore is expected to touch INR 35,000 L'Oreal, Hindustan Unilever, Himalayas, and crore in next three years. As per report male fall in Nevia have followed the trend and launch their the age group between 24-45 years spending more exclusive skin care range for Men. Majorly all the time and money for grooming products than brands came up with moisturiser and face wash. female.1 The reason behind this transformation is India's face wash market which is of Rs. 1,800 raising disposable income, urbanization and crore with men's face wash category contributing exposure to global trend of metro-sexual culture. 15 to 20 % which comes to around Rs. 360 crore In this total size of industry, major contributors are which is very small in size but growing at a double shaving products and deodorants followed by 2 digit rate of 15-20%. Men's skin care and specially hair care and skincare products. Men's skin care face wash products is of very small size but with Falguni Shelani exponential growth rate makes it desirable to Research Scholar, study. In this paper men's face wash is specically B. K. School of Management, Gujarat University, focussed. Ahmedabad 1http://www.assocham.org/newsdetail.php?id=6697 2 https://www.indiatoday.in/pti-feed/story/himalaya- Dr. Neelima Ruparel aims-to-double-market-share-in-mens-facewash-to- Professor, 20percent-929840-2017-05-21 B. K. School of Management, Gujarat University, Ahmedabad Traditionally Skincare is associated to femininity, around the world, it is observed that female skin however shift in gender role also affects to the tone is lighter than the male skin tone of their gender product consumption. Male who are living respective races. Facial contrast i.e. colour of lips, in metro /urbanised area, sexually attracted eyebrows and eyes difference from all over face is towards women, and putting effort and spending also the key differentiation attribute of male and money for their appearance is known as 'Metro- female face. Female across races like Asian, Sexual'. This word is combination of metropolitan Caucasian and European have more facial and sexual was coined by Mark Simpson in 1994.3 contrast than their male counterpart. Colour This metro-sexuality is catching up to urban India cosmetics products in beauty segment provide Men and they are getting adaptive to skin care various products to increase this facial contrast. products but does it challenge traditional (Russell, 2009) Fairness is desired attribute for masculinity? Masculinity means characteristics of females across many cultures like Africa, India, Men. It is not natural biological attribute but it is and Eastern Asia like Japan,-China- Korea, trait acquired by men as a result of culture.4 Philippines, Latin America, North America and Various brands targeting male audience and Europe. Skin lighteners are selling like hot cake catering skin care products are conscious of their and growing at high rate.(GLENN, 2008) In India, brand communication. This study is to focus on Fair & Lovely one of the most trusted brand and tone of television ad broadcasted by various with highest market share is encasing preference brands for face wash in India with special of people for fair skin by selling fairness cream for reference of masculinity. more than three decade.(Shevde, 2008) Skin care and face care was female domain until nineteenth LITERATURE REVIEW century, now male are also getting conscious about their appearance and spending time and Difference of men and women is biological money to improve their looks. This phenomenon whereas gender is psychological traits that are is known as metro-sexuality.(Beynon, 2002). gained through learning from early childhood Metro-Sexual word was coined by a journalist which is outcome of culture of the society. Society namely Mark Simpson in 1994. Media plays inculcates in the minds of children to adopt pivotal role in development and growth of metro- masculinity or femininity as per their biological sexuality, media portrays some unachievable goal sex. (Sobia Bano, 2016) According to Patricia by showing male model having perfect physics Sexton, Male attributes constitutes physical and and facial feature, which affects self condence emotional toughness, aggression, competition, and self-esteem of lay men. Traditionally male freedom, mastery, adventure, technical know- were indifferent to their looks, but now a day's how, risk taking ability, self-direction. exposure to media, social acceptance and (Donaldson, 1993) This is traditional masculinity. conformity creates pressure on them too. If we talk about skin care products, major ( V e n k a t a s w a m y , 2 0 1 1 ) ( R O S E M A R Y products available in the market revolve around RICCIARDELLI, 2009) . The transnational fairness of skin as a result of usage of their brand. magazine that targets upper class, urban male of Indian culture is obsessed with fairness of skin India also portrays European race, fair skinned tone even before British colonial period; the seeds male models. In India too, metro-sexuality is were shown when fair skinned Aryan population taking over traditional Macho image of Indian ruled dark skinned Dravidians. Indian Men. (Mishra, 2017). Metro-sexuality is snacking Mythological books which create early childhood in Indian Culture but it also challenges memories also depicts fairness symbolise masculinity too. It varies in degree from culture to godliness and darkness symbolise evil. However culture as it is result of culture. In culture of New- Indian culture is biased towards gender. Fairness Zeeland and Thailand, using face care or fairness is associated with femininity and desired attribute products challenges traditional masculinity. of female.(Shevde, 2008) Across many races (Leng, 2016) (Rangkaputi, 2017).
3 http://itspronouncedmetrosexual.com/2011/11/dening-a-metrosexual-male/ 4https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/denition/masculinity
26 Oakbrook Business Review However in India, Metro-sexuality is an urban as painful?” while changing scene during his phenomenon, rural India where more than sixty question showing a men applying face cream percent population resides, are not even much while a women tired of waiting for him and a men aware about face care and skin care products for screams to get waxing on his nose for blackheads. men. Limited disposable income, exposure to Moving further, Arjun Rampal suggests Nevia foreign culture through media, distribution Men all in one face wash to reduce dark sports, infrastructure and traditional masculinity are the acne and excess oil. In the last scene Arjun Rampal major barriers for skin care brands for men. Many walking on the street and a girl driving car on the brands for skin care opting masculinity as a same street get distracted due to his charm and hit message to promote metro-sexuality. Brands were another car on the street.6 promoted with the massage that usage of face care product is metro-sexuality but using such This advertisement uses English as medium of products will not reduce masculine image but communication showing informational appeal by enhance social acceptance. (K, 2009). providing problem solving of acne, dark sports and oily skin, very common face problem for men. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY Comparison with women face care tries to demonstrate that women face care is fussier and The research type is descriptive in nature and time consuming. Advertisement attempts to infer secondary data based. Television is the media that that taking much time for face care or following caters lasting effect as it creates audio-visual face care routine like applying mask or waxing are effects. Television advertisements for Men's face- feminine characteristics and not implied for men, wash in India are selected for content analysis. men needs faster and simpler to use solution. In Analysis is focussed on how metro-sexuality and spite of the fact that taking care of face by men is masculinity is blended in advertisements. Tone of characteristics of metro-sexual men, but ad the advertisement is analysed with special content demonstrates that using effective and reference to masculinity. Nevia, Garnier, Ponds, efcient way is a new masculine metro-sexuality. Emami Fair &Handsome, Fair and Lovely for men are the brands are considered for analysing Garnier Men Oil Clear Matcha Detox Face Wash: advertisement. These ve brands are selected for analysis with common factor of celebrity Garnier is cosmetic brand owned by L'Oreal S.A. a endorsement. France based company. Garnier which is prominent brand name has culled Jhon Abraham Nevia Men all in one Face wash: &Tiger Shroff, Bollywood actors as a brand ambassador for Garnier Men Oil Clear Matcha Nevia is the Germany based, more than century Detox Face Wash. The 31 seconds ad is staring old, international brand,5 used Arjun Rampal, a with Jhon Abraham who is actor cum producer of Bollywood actor to endorse the brand in India. Hindi lm industry is known for his height and The tall, dark, handsome, commercially muscular body, generally performed action unsuccessful but critically acclaimed Bollywood sequence in his movies, having image of action actor is chosen by international brand. The 26 hero. Another face in the ad, Tiger Shroff who is seconds long ad, starts with celebrity wearing blue again Hindi lm industry actor known for his colour (Brand Colour ) sportswear for soccer, action stunts and dancing skills, performed entering into boys common room where other various lm roles on same line. Common things boys are getting ready for the game, while two between both the endorsers are heavy build, guys wearing face mask and in bath robe relaxing masculine body and action sequence role in Hindi on chair where Arjun Rampal questions “you movie. The ad starts with both the endorser jump think that men's face care is as complicated as on the busy road with skateboards riding on it, women's face care, or as time consuming or even wearing helmet. Jhon Abraham wearing black
5https://www.beiersdorf.com/about-us/our-history/milestones 6https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4buj5uynmE
Oakbrook Business Review 27 colour t-shirt and Tiger Shroff wearing Army- brand however using face-wash is a metro-sexual green colour t-shirt, same is the colour attribute. Message is clear that even tough guy combination of packaging of the product. While needs this brand to get fresh & oil free face. riding through busy trafc road with lot of air pollution, background voice of Jhon Abraham Emami Fair & Handsome instant fairness face says in Hinglish (Hindi and English) : “Aap kitne wash: bhi fast ho, city pollution he faster, ye skin ko Emami Fair & Handsome brand belongs to Emami banaye oily and dirty”, which means no matter limited one of the India based conglomerate, how fast you are, city pollution is faster than you, indulged in personal and health care business. that makes your skin oily and dirty. This much of Fair & Handsome is a pioneer brand in men's skin clip connotes that both the celebrity Tiger and care market in India by launching fairness cream Jhon choose riding skateboards instead of other for men in 2005 with the brand ambassador Shah vehicle to avoid trafc and to reach faster. In the Rukh Khan (Bollywood actor), known for his next scene captured in men's restroom, where romantic hero image. However for Fair & Tiger Shroff try to take ordinary shop lying on Handsome face wash, brand opted for Hritik washbasin while Jhon Abraham stopping him by Roshan and Vidyut Jammwal (both are saying in Hinglish : “ye nahi, you need matcha Bollywood actors). For this paper latest ad detox for deep cleansing”. While product is shown featuring Vidyut Jamwal is considered. with ingredients and background voice of Jhon “new garnier men matcha detox, powerfull Vidyut Jamwal who is known for action and matcha green tea ke sath iska detox action under se difcult stunt in Hindi movie industry is also oil and dirt nikale, Skin rahe clean, fresh and martial art practitioner in real life. In this ad also (added by Tiger Shroff) hundred percent oil free, 7 Vidyut Jammwal is shown performing difcult (Both) now don't just wash, detox.” Meaning in physical task like balancing body while hanging English, New Garnier Men matcha detox, is with on gymnastic rings, turning heavy tyre, climbing powerful ingredient matcha green tea which steps in speed and stretching body. While detox skin and remove the dirt and oil from skin, performing all these tasks, he is exposing his ultimately your skin will be fresh, clean and cent upper masculine body part. While picturization percent oil free, so don't just wash your face but shows Vidyut performing different difcult task, detox ( with the product). Matcha green tea which background voice says in Hindi “Koi Kitna bhi is shown as active ingredient of the product is a tough kyuna ho chera pollution se bach nahi sakta, type of green tea, harvested and processed 8 oil aur pasine se bhag nahi sakta, dhup se chip differently. In the end Jhon Abraham reiterates nahi sakta, natija dark aur dull chera. Emami Fair the brand name. & Handsome instant fairness face wash with acti- fair peptide, removes dirt, oil and sweat. Bus ek The ad used informational appeal by showing splash chera dikhe fair and fresh”. It means even if problem solving attributes of the products. The ad a tough person can't escape his face from uses the brand ambassadors (Jhon Abraham & pollution, oil and perspiration and can't hide face Tiger Shroff), are youth icon for physical tness from sun heat which resultant to dull and dark and six pack abs body which is typically face. Emami Fair & Handsome instant fairness masculine characteristic. In this ad also they are face wash with acti-fair peptide, removes dirt, oil shown skateboarding which is again street and sweat. With one splash meaning with one adventure sports and narration of the ad focus on wash your face will look fair and fresh. In the end speed. Speed which is gives thrill is positively one female model is shown who is mesmerised related with masculinity, speed is considered as with charm of Vidyut Jammwal, trying to seduce masculine attribute. . Even ads for bikes are him. In the end Vidyut says “Jiyo tough” followed focused on speed. Ad uses many signals and by female model “Dikho Handsome” meaning, symbols of masculinity to promote face-wash
7https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by9gQ2hzpeE 8http://www.health.com/nutrition/what-is-matcha
28 Oakbrook Business Review live tough, look handsome.9 charming modelling feature like height, good physics and fair skin. Advertisement used informational appeal by showing men skin problems and solution by the The 46 seconds long ad staring Siddharth brand. In addition to brand ambassador's image, Malhotra, starts with noise of chopper and bird the background voice used in this ad sounds very view of a men running on street surrounded by heavy and masculine. Vidyut Jammwal has sky rise building and he is chased by four bikers shown aunting his muscular body with abs, and (black bikes) wearing all black, including helmet, wearing grey, white and black colour. In ad mostly ring with heavy gun at the men and that men is black, grey and white colour is used in Siddharth Malhotra, shown in next scene background. Colour of brand packaging is silver (wearing all black).Siddharth Malhotra escaping grey. Typically ad chooses colour that is preferred all the gun shot climb up a car and jump from that by men.10 Ad gives all the sign of masculinity from car and get escaped from that car blast and there brand ambassador, colour theme and background come the voice of “cut” and it was picturized that voice to the ultimate intention to attract opposite it was shooting of an action stunt of a movie. Actor gender. Apart from that, ad categorically advice after completion of his scene, speaks in Hindi with that though one can be tough but can't escape dirt, lot of black spots of dust on his face “Bollywood pollution, sun heat that damage face skin. In the me bhi naye standards aa gaye he, action scenes end Vidyut endorse the brand by emphasising stunt men12 nahi hero khud karte he, aur chere ka that live tough but look handsome. Ad wants to haal ye and iske liye sirf pani nahi, ye (background target those masculine men that feel they are voice) Fair & Lovely Men Fairness Face Wash, iska tough that's why they don't need face wash. Ad magnet action dirt aur pollution khich, de fairness wants to challenge traditional thinking that using ka naya standard.”Meaning: in Bollywood also skin care products is not a sign of femininity. Its there are new standards, action scenes are message is loud and clear that masculine men performed by Heroes (Actors performing lead should use face wash to look handsome and it will hero role) himself and not by the professional not reduce their masculine character. Ultimately stunt men resultant to dusty face and for that only promoting metro-sexuality under the cover of water would not work but Fair & Lovely Men masculinity Fairness Face Wash, with magnet action which will remove dirt and pollution and provide new Fair & Lovely Men Fairness face wash: standard of fairness. In the next scene Siddharth Fair & Lovely one of the most successful brand of Malhotra is shown waving to his female fans and Hindustan Unilever Company, was launched in setting on his bike. While setting on and giving India in 1975, till today brand is enjoying market sele to his female fans, he narrates “aajkal fans ke leadership even today and reaping the fruits of bhi naye standards aa gaye he, autograph nahi deeply rooted aspiration of fair skin in Indian sele magte he”. Meaning: now a day's fans are culture. Fair & Lovely started men's skin care having new standards, asking for sele from range in 2007.11 Fair & Lovely in its current Bollywood celebrity instead of autograph. marketing campaign engaged Siddharth Malhotra a Hindi lm industry (Bollywood) actor. The ad used informative, problem solving Siddharth Malhotra model cum actor is having approach. The ad used the black colour the most, mix of image as he played romantic as well as as it is the brand packaging colour. Ad shows action role in his career, having on and off Bollywood actor performing masculine stunts by Bollywood career, Siddharth Malhotra having running and escaping bullets and ultimately
9https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YbJ-jKF3ss 10https://hookagency.com/masculine-color-schemes/ 11https://www.hindustantimes.com/business/beauty-for-men/story-0Rto8EIYtQ2Lgfqy7JDJaL.html 12professional stunt performer who performs stunts in the movie in stand of main actor and then with help of technology main actor's face is used to show main line actor is performing stunts
Oakbrook Business Review 29 concern about his face charm and damage, mere pass he face ka charger, New Ponds Men, resultant from that stunts. Ad wants to depict that koi ordinary face wash nahi isme he coffee bean masculine men, are conscious about their facial extract dull face ko bright kare aur tired face me charm and to protect that charm and ultimately to josh jagaye” in the next scene actor is showing be desirable by females they should use face wash, energetic dance moves on the stage and end the instead of just water or bathing soap. commercial with message “ New Pond's Men, Face ka charger”. Translation in English “End of Pond's Men Energy Charge Face Wash: the day just like your phone, even your face get Pond's is very renowned brand of Hindustan low battery mean slow energy resultant to dull Unilever Company and ultimately belongs to and tired face but not mine (actor pointing Unilever the ultimate parent company. Brand was himself) as I have face charger- New Ponds Men initiated in 1846.13 More than 150 years old brand is which is not ordinary face wash, it contains coffee positioned as soft and gentle brand for females for bean extracts which makes dull face bright and years till today. Having remarkable position in energise tired face” “New Pond's Men, Face female skin care, brand has launched its variant charger”. for men in 2014, while considering growth for fairness products for men. Brand which is The ad used problem solving approach by symbolic to the feminism with its position as showing resolution to dull and tired face. The something very soft and gentle using white and main attribute that ad focuses on is energy rather pink colour for their brand positioning, is now than fairness or oil free or spot free look. The brand selling men's skin care using black colour as brand endorser (Varun Dhawan) is also not famous for preposition. Brand used Varun Dhawan a typical masculine attribute and showing dance Bollywood actor as a brand ambassador. Varun moves rather than some physically challenging Dhawan who is commercially successful actor has task however he is shown using heavy bike, biking worked majorly in rom-com (romance and is associated with masculinity. Whole ad used comedy) movies, has an image of romantic hero of endorser's voice and theme colour, is black current generation. Actor is having all the good typically associated with masculinity. In looks, with fair tone face which are the desirable comparison with previous ad, this ad not attributes for Bollywood actor however he is not promoting categorically that tough man using this having that masculine image or tough men image brand but brand took care to communicate in the minds of audience. message of energy which symbolised masculinity.
The 36 second long ad starts with a biker on his Comparative Analysis of all Ads: black bike, wearing all black, covering head with In the entire ve ads a pattern is observed, the black helmet, parks his bike and get down from it entire brand chooses Bollywood actors to endorse and enter to the corridor seems like back stage of the brand. The entire ad uses problem solving an event show, and that men is Varun Dhawan.14 approach. Colour theme of the ad is majorly The back ground is all black and actor is followed similar to the brand packaging colour. In three out by two girls. The actor check his mobile that shows of ve ads, it is shown that after using face wash, battery down message (power decit of cell endorsers get special female attentions. In all the phone) and then he says in Hindi language “ End ad endorsers are shown using face wash. Tabular of the day face ki bhi battery down ho jati he, yani comparison of all ve brand ad as mentioned dull tired (pointing at his face), but not mine kyuki above is as follows,
13https://www.hul.co.in/brands/personal-care/ponds.html 14https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IQmr7k2rMA
30 Oakbrook Business Review Table 1
Common Factor Nevia Men Garnier Emami Fair Fair & Pond’s Men Men & Handsome Lovely Men
Bollywood Celebrity Arjun Rampal Jhon Abrahim + Vidhyut Jamwal Siddharth Varun Dhawan Endorsers Tiger Shroff Malhotra
Endorser’s Image Tall, Dark, Action Heroes Action Hero Charming Model Romance + Handsome Guy Comedy Hero
Color of Brand Grey, Blue & Black & Green Grey & Blue Black Black & Red Black
Ad Theme Color Black & Gray Black & Green Grey, White & Black Black Black
Special Ingredient Not Available Macha Green Tea Anti-fair Peptides Not Available Coffee beans extract
Background Men’s common City road with Jim + Men's rest City road with Dance oor+ Location room + Men’s rush trafc + room with mirror lm shooting Men's rest room rest room with Men's rest room and wash basin prop + Men's with mirror and mirror and wash with mirror and rest room with wash basin basin wash basin mirror and wash basin
Background prop Saloon set-up & Skateboards + Gymnastic rings+ Bikes +car+ Bike + Dance used Boy's changing helmet + road heavy giant tyre heavy gun+ oor room (football vehicles movie shooting ground)+ cars on prop road
Special attention Shown Not shown Shown Shown Not shown from female as a result of using face wash
Masculinity Directly Indirectly Directly Indirectly Indirectly promoted directly/ indirectly
CONCLUSION Research scholars across various countries observed that metro-sexuality observed in urban area of most of the country. Globalization and social media is the key facilitator to this phenomenon to spread quickly. Adaption rate to metro-sexuality is also very impressive and that can be concluded with the statistics of sales of men specic personal care products. However metro-sexuality is yet to be established as new masculinity that can be concluded from literature study. If all the ve brands ads are to be summarised, overtly or covertly all ads depicted that masculine or tough men are facing problem like dull, oily and dirty face, due to pollution and exertion, to look fresh and having problem free face they uses, specic face wash rather than just water or ordinary bathing soap. Three out of ve brands also depicts in their ad that using their products will help them lure attention of female. The entire messages from all ve ad is very clear that even if men are having all masculine attribute like toughness or achievement orientation or adventures, they need to take care of their face for good looks and socially desirability. However products category is new and challenging
Oakbrook Business Review 31 to the psychology of many Indian men specically for those men who are not leaving in metro cities in India. Brands need to go far way to make face washes or moisturisers, a daily routine product like shaving products for Indian men.
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