he dhow is a type of boat with two or three masts and rigged with lateen sails. For centuries, Tthese boats have plied their trade in the Persian Gulf and the Oman Sea and further afield in Malaysia and Zanzibar. Until the 1960s, dhows regularly sailed between the Persian Gulf and East Africa with cargos of spices and timber. Today, dhows continue trading and are still hand-built in Zanzibar.

TECHNICAL DATA: The Sultan Dhow Model no: 22165 Degree of difficulty: Length: 470mm (1816/32in) Height: 420mm (16 18/32in) Beam: 125mm (4 3/4in) Scale: 1:60

Not suitable for children under 14 years of age. Model for collectors only. DHOWS 1 THE SULTAN DHOW Dhows have been plying the seas for two millennia or more. Their size, shape and construction methods have varied through the centuries and between various countries. The basic principle of a wooden sailboat with lateen sails – a shape developed by the Arabs – is still used today in the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf, and in the Indian Ocean, from the north of Madagascar to the Bay of Bengal.

ost dhows sail mainly in make excellent fishing boats, and are Similar boats can be found on these coastal waters, but larger used as bases for pearl divers. routes today, although they are Mversions are capable of long, usually fitted with auxiliary engines. deep-sea voyages, during which Sailing on the monsoon winds A typical dhow has two masts, sailors once navigated with the kamal, Until the mid-20th century, dhows with a mainsail considerably bigger a simple instrument for determining would sail south on the monsoon than the mizzensail, and a long, thin latitude with a surprising degree of winds of late winter from Kuwait, wooden hull with a sharp, upward- accuracy. Smaller dhows are also used Oman and other Arab states, taking pointing bow. The traditional method on great rivers, such as the Nile. dates, salt fish and other goods to for making a dhow, known as shell- Dhows have always been used for East Africa. They would return to building, was different from that peaceful purposes, rather than as Arabia a few months later, laden with employed in Europe, where fighting ships. They are typically used timber, cloves and other goods, when shipwrights first built the framework to transport people and goods – and the winds changed in their favour. of the hull, then fixed planks to the

in the past, in the heyday of the Arab These dhows had crews of about a Below: Dhows have been a familiar sight in slave trade, people as goods. They dozen, and displaced 300–500 tonnes. coastal waters of Arabia for millennia. DeAgostini 2 THE SULTAN DHOW

Above: Dhows continue to provide a cheap, reliable form of transport in Arab waters. The battil is a double-ended dhow, with a long stem post, which ends in a large, clubbed finial, and a stern post, Above: A boum in Bandar Kong, a port town of Iran by the Persian Gulf. Boums were sailships until the 1960s when most were converted to diesel power like this one. which owners often decorate with pieces of worked leather and shells, ribbing. In shell-building, by contrast, building continued to be the favoured particularly cowries. the outer skin of the hull is built up method. from the base. Several types of dhow evolved Sailing in calmer waters In the case of the earliest dhows, over the centuries to suit different The badan, a smaller double-ended this was a simple dugout. Thin teak purposes. They are all characterized dhow with a shallower draught, was planks were sewn to the side of this by size and by the shapes of their intended to be sailed in coastal waters to build up a hull. Over the centuries, hulls. The baghlah, which is now no and on rivers. It was similar to the a keel replaced the dugout, but the longer built, was made for deep-sea felucca, made for the protected basic technique, in which the sailing, for example, and carried a waters of the eastern Mediterranean shipwright created a vessel one plank comparatively large crew of 30 or and the Red Sea. They can safely be at a time, remained unaltered. One more. It featured a flat, squared-off crewed by two or three people, and advantage of this technique was its stern, called a transom – with five are still in use today on the Nile, adaptability. Changes could easily be windows, and a high poop deck which ferrying up to a dozen people (and made during the process of was reminiscent of those seen on often livestock) across or up and construction, simply by adding more the grand European galleons of the down the river – just as they have planks, altering their shape, or 16th century. done for centuries. attaching them at a different angle. After European ships – first the Decorated dhows carracks and caravels of the The ghanjah was another large, The dhow trade routes from Portuguese, and then galleons – began ocean-going dhow with an up-curving Arabia to India and East Africa to appear in the Indian Ocean in the stem – the timber at the front of the represent the most long-lasting 16th century, the dhow-builders boat – and a sloping transom, which tradition of commercial seafaring began to nail the planks together was usually highly decorated with in world history. rather than sew them, but shell- often ornate carvings.

THE KAMAL This navigational device was first used by Arabs in the 9th century. A piece of cord, with knots at fixed intervals, is threaded through a hole in the centre of a wooden rectangle. One end of the cord is held in the teeth and the other at arm’s length. The user sights the lower edge of the rectangle against the horizon, and the upper to just occlude Polaris. The dhow’s latitude is measured by counting the knots between the teeth and the wood. Kamals were not used outside the Tropics, as Polaris is too high in the north and sometimes below the horizon in the south. Peter Ifland, author of Taking the Stars: Celestial Navigation from Argonauts to Astronauts GENERAL TIPS PARTS OF SULTAN DHOW: LIST 1 THE ATTENTION! Assemble under adult supervision. Unsuitable for children under 14. To assemble this model we recommend that you follow the step-by-step guide. 1 4 8

1. Follow all assembly steps CAREFULLY. 4. To ensure the perfect adjustment of cast GLUES Take all the time you need. First look at the metal parts, go over the edges with a small Apply glue sparingly and in strict accordance photos and read all the documentation included file before fitting to eliminate possible burrs with the manufacturer’s instructions. There are in the kit, as it will help you assemble the and impurities. three types of glues that can be used to model correctly: assemble the model. •Parts list with Dimensions and Materials. White glue •Cut Sheet with precision-cut numbered parts. 5 This is also known as carpenter’s glue or PVA. •These instructions. It can be applied directly or with a brush to one of the parts to be glued. Clean off any excess glue immediately after joining the parts to avoid staining when fully dry. Contact glue 2 This glue can be applied with either a brush or a flat spatula. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces to be joined. Before joining the parts, leave for approximately five minutes. After joining the parts, apply light pressure and remove any 5. To give a more authentic appearance to excess glue. the ship’s sails, dye them in some tea. When Quick-drying glue completely dry, add them to the ship without Apply a tiny amount directly to the point where ironing them. the parts are to be joined. It is very important that the parts are correctly positioned as you will not be able to move the parts again to set 2. To remove the wood pieces (see Cut 6 them correctly. Sheets), carefully cut the tiny strands joining them to the sheet. Use the Cut Sheets to PUTTIES identify fully the precision-cut parts. Use regular stopping putty for wood. Read the After removing the parts from the sheets to manufacturer’s instructions carefully! use them during assembly, carefully sand them Applying putty before gluing in place. To fill holes or cracks in the ship’s hull, apply Given the nature and origin of the wood, the putty with a flat spatula. Allow to dry and there may be slight differences in the tone softly sand the entire surface of the hull to level or colour of some material. off the putty. VARNISHES 6. For parts that need bending or curving, Use clear (not coloured) stopping varnish. Read 3 dampen them in water for greater flexibility. the manufacturer’s instructions carefully! You can also use a tool called a bending press, Applying varnish which is highly useful during assembly. Use a brush to apply varnish to wood. Sand the surface and thoroughly clean the part before varnishing. Varnish as follows: 7 1. Apply a first coat and allow to dry. 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2. 4. Apply a third coat and allow to dry. 5. When dry, polish the part using steel wool. PAINTS 3. To cut to size and identify the parts which Use acrylic (water-based) paints. Read the are not prefabricated, look at the parts list manufacturer’s instructions carefully! where you will find: •Part number. Applying paint •Part description. Use a paintbrush. Sand the surface and clean the part thoroughly before painting. Paint in the •Number of same parts to be cut and used 7. Before mounting the pulley blocks or dead- in the model. eyes, it is best to enlarge the holes with a following order. •Part dimensions (thickness, width, length, 0.75mm diameter drill. 1. Apply a coat of varnish to prepare the in that order). surface to be painted. Allow the part to dry. •Material used to make the parts (subject to 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. modification by prior notification. 3. Apply a first coat of paint and allow to dry. 4. When dry, apply a second coat of paint. LIST OF PARTS PARTS OF SULTAN DHOW: LIST 2 THE Required extra tools and accessories: •Sandpapers (cont) – very fine grain (1000) •White glue (item 27601) All tools and Recommended extra tools and accessories: •Quick-drying glue (item 27611) materials are •Hammer (item 27017) •Hand drill (item 27018) •Plank bender (item 27024) •Varnish 200cc pot (item 27621) available from •Mini clamps (item 27029) •Cutter no.1 www.model-space.co.uk •Saw (item 27042) •Sandpapers – medium grain (240) •Thread scissors (item 27060)

Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material 1 Vertical keel 1 Pref 4 Plywood 2-13 Frames 12 Pref 4 Plywood 14 Stern strengtheners 2 Pref 4 Plywood 15 Bow strengtheners 2 Pref 4 Plywood 16 Main deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 17 Nails 500 10mm Brass 18 Stern deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 19 Stern bulkhead 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 20 Bow deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 21 Small central deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 22 Plates on first plating 38 1.5x5x400 Basswood 23 Stern 1 Pref 4 Sapele 24 Keel 1 4x6x250 Sapele 25 Sternpost 1 Pref 4 Sapele 26 Clear strakes on second plating 20 0.6x5x400 Basswood 27 Dark strakes on second plating 34 0.6x5x400 Sapele 28 Wide rubbing strake 2/2 2x3x12/400 Walnut 29 Narrow rubbing strake 2/2 2x2x16/400 Walnut 30 Deck plate 14/26/22/22 1x4x55/275/14/85 Basswood 31 Central interior ends 2 1.5x1.5x250 Sapele 32 Vertical interior ends on stern 2 1.5x1.5x11 Sapele 33 Interior ends on stern 2 1.5x1.5x90 Sapele 34 Transverse ends on stern 2 1.5x1.5x93 Sapele 35 Interior ends on bow 2 1.5x1.5x60 Sapele 36 Transverse first end on bow 1 1.5x1.5x9 Sapele 37 Transverse second end on bow 1 1x5x60 Sapele 38 Stranchions on bulwarks 8/4/24 1.5x3x5/14/12 Sapele 39 Lower lengthwise frames in the gap on the main deck 2 1.5x3x17 Walnut 40 Lower transverse frames in the gap on the main deck 2 1.5x3x12 Walnut 41 Upper lengthwise frames in the gap on the main deck 2 1.5x3x23 Walnut 42 Upper transverse frames in the gap on the main deck 2 1.5x3x12 Walnut 43 Central side gunwale covers 2 1.5x3x184 Walnut 44 Side gunwale covers on bow 2 1.5x3x108 Walnut 45 Side gunwale covers on stern 2 1.5x3x100 Walnut 46 Gunwale cover on stern 1 1.5x6x44 Walnut 47 Stanchion strengtheners 2 1.5x1.5x218 Sapele 48 Rudder blade 1 Pref 4 Sapele 49 Small hinges on rudder 4 Pref 2 Brass strapping 50 Large hinges on rudder 2 Pref 2 Brass strapping 51 Side embellishments on stern 20 Pref 2 Walnut 52 Side mid-embellishments on stern 2 Pref 2 Walnut 53 Rudder tiller 1 Pref 4 Sapele 54 Side walls on the rails 2 1.5x6x98 Sapele 55 Handrails 4/1 1.5x3x98/43 Walnut 56 Side columns on the rails 18 2x3x8 Walnut 57 Long pillars on the canopy 2 3x3x50 Sapele 58 Short pillars on the canopy 4 3x3x40 Sapele 59 First beam on the canopy 1 2x3x124 Sapele 60 Second beam on the canopy 1 2x3x84 Sapele 61 Third beam on the canopy 1 2x3x54 Sapele 62 Lashing on ladders 24 Diam 0.15x20 Cotton thread 63 Mast hole for mizzenmast 1 Pref 4 Sapele 64 Sides on ladders 6 1.5x1.5x26 Sapele 65 Steps on ladders 12 1.5x1.5x12 Sapele 66 Top of stern rail 1 1.5x3x66 Sapele 67 Tops of bow rail 2 1.5x3x30 Sapele 68 Columns for the bow and stern rails 13 3x3x6 Sapele 69 Exterior lengthwise frames for the load hatch 2 2x3x30 Sapele 70 Exterior transverse frames for the load hatch 2 2x3x34 Sapele 71 Interior lengthwise frames for the load hatch 2 1.5x1.5x30 Sapele 72 Interior transverse frames for the load hatch 2 1.5x1.5x27 Sapele 73 Covers for the load hatch 10 1.5x3x31 Walnut Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material

74 Eyebolts 28 Pref 7 Brass PARTS OF SULTAN DHOW: LIST 3 THE 75 Rings 3 Pref Diam 2 Brass wire 76 Bow pillars 2 3x3x27 Sapele 77 Bow beams 1 3x3x72 Sapele 78 Lashings for bow pillars 2 Diam 0.25x60 Cotton thread 79 Double upper lengthwise frames for the gap in main deck 2 3x3x29 Sapele 80 Double upper transverse frames for the gap in main deck 2 3x3x18 Sapele 81 Lengthwise frames for central hatch 2 3x3x88 Sapele 82 First transverse frame of the central hatch 1 3x3x29 Sapele 83 Second transverse frame of the central hatch 1 3x3x38 Sapele 84 Exterior lengthwise ends of central hatches 2 1.5x1.5x110 Walnut 85 Exterior transverse ends of central hatches 1 1.5x1.5x24 Walnut 86 First interior lengthwise ends of central hatch 2 1.5x1.5x33 Walnut 87 Second interior lengthwise ends of central hatch 2 1.5x1.5x25 Walnut 88 Third interior lengthwise ends of central hatch 2 1.5x1.5x23 Walnut 89 First interior transverse end of central hatch 1 1.5x1.5x18 Walnut 90 Second interior transverse ends of central hatch 2 1.5x1.5x29 Walnut 91 Third interior transverse ends of central hatch 2 1.5x1.5x38 Walnut 92 Covers of central hatches 9/13 1.5x3x33/25 Walnut 93 Lengthwise strengtheners of bracket for main mast rigging 2 1.5x3x23 Walnut 94 Transverse strengtheners of bracket for main mast rigging 2 1.5x3x4 Walnut 95 Bracket for rigging on mainmast 1 Pref 4 Sapele 96 Bracket for rigging on mizzenmast 1 Pref 4 Sapele 97 Upper frames on central hatches 1/1/1 1.5x1.5x23/34/43 Walnut 98 Lengthwise strengtheners of bracket for mizzen rigging 2 1.5x1.5x22 Walnut 99 Transverse strengtheners of bracket for mizzen rigging 2 1.5x1.5x4 Walnut 100 Medium-sized diam 12mm barrels 6 Pref Diam 12x14 Walnut 101 Large-sized diam 18mm barrels 2 Pref Diam 18x17 Boxwood 102 Brackets for medium-sized barrels 6 2x4x29 Basswood 103 Raw fine thread 1 Diam 0.15x18000 Cotton thread 104 Lengthwise battens for wooden chest 6 2x3x26 Basswood 105 Transverse battens for wooden chest 6 2x3x18 Basswood 106 Flooring battens for wooden chest 6 2x3x22 Basswood 107 Exterior vertical strengtheners for wooden chest 4 2x3x12 Basswood 108 Interior vertical strengtheners for wooden chest 4 1.5x1.5x10 Walnut 109 Flooring strengthener for wooden chest 1 2x3x18 Basswood 110 Battens for chest cover 7 1.5x3x46 Sapele 111 Lengthwise lateral battens for chest 12 1.5x3x44 Sapele 112 Transverse lateral battens for chest 12 1.5x3x17 Sapele 113 Battens for chest flooring 6 1.5x3x41 Sapele 114 Hinges and lock for chest 4 Pref 3x15 Brass strapping 115 Chest handles 2 Diam 0.25x20 Cotton thread 116 Small diam 8mm barrels 3 Pref Diam 8x11 Walnut 117 Anchor davits 2 Diam 3x60 Sapele 118 Brackets for anchor davits 2 3x3x18 Sapele 119 Anchor body 1 Pref Cast in metal 120 Anchor arms 1 Pref Cast in metal 121 Anchor rope 1 Diam 0.25x250 Cotton thread 122 Buckets handles 5 Diam 0.8x15 Brass wire 123 Buckets 5 Pref Diam 8 Boxwood 124 Base for amphoras 1 Pref 2 Sapele 125 Lengthwise frames for amphora base 2 1.5x3x30 Sapele 126 Transverse frames for amphora base 2 1.5x3x27 Sapele 127 Brackets for amphora base 4 3x3x14 Sapele 128 Amphoras 4 Pref Diam 10 Boxwood 129 Coils of rope 2 Diam 0.25x200 Cotton thread 130 Bowsprit 1 Diam 5x150 Sapele 131 Bowsprit support 1 Pref 2 Sapele 132 Bowsprit brackets 2 Diam 3x15 Sapele 133 Strengthener for bowsprit brackets 1 Diam 0.8x12 Brass wire 134 Bowsprit lashing 2 Diam 0.25x100 Cotton thread 135 Cleats 16 Pref 8 Cast in metal 136 First transverse curved strengthener for canopy 1 1.5x3x132 Sapele 137 Second transverse curved strengthener for canopy 1 1.5x3x90 Sapele 138 Third transverse curved strengthener for canopy 1 1.5x3x60 Sapele 139 First straight lengthwise strengtheners 2 1.5x3x38 Sapele 140 Second straight lengthwise strengthener 1 1.5x3x42 Sapele 141 Mizzenmast 1 Diam 4x165 Sapele 142 Wide lugs for mizzenmast 2 2x5x15 Basswood 143 Mainmast 1 Diam 5x245 Sapele 144 Wide lugs for mainmast 2 2x5x20 Basswood 145 Wide lugs for mainmast 2 1x4x20 Basswood 146 Auxiliary mast for mainmast 1 Diam 5x28 Sapele 147 Lashing between mainmast and auxiliary mast 1 Diam 0.25x180 Cotton thread 148 Stern canopy 1 Pref Cloth 149 Single yard for mizzenmast 1 Diam 4x210 Sapele 150 Lateen sail for mizzenmast 1 Pref Cloth Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material

151 Fine brown thread 1 Diam 0.15x3000 Cotton thread PARTS OF SULTAN DHOW: LIST 4 THE 152 Trucks 45 Pref Plastic 153 Blocks 16 Pref 5 Boxwood 154 Lower end of lateen yard for mainmast 1 Diam 5x245 Sapele 155 Upper end of lateen yard on mainmast 1 Diam 4x125 Sapele 156 Tip of lateen yard on mainmast 1 Diam 3x60 Sapele 157 Lashing for mainmast lateen yard 4 Diam 0.15x80 Cotton thread 158 Lateen yard truss on mainmast 1 Pref 2 Sapele 159 Lashing for truss 4 Diam 0.15x60 Cotton thread 160 Lateen yard on mainmast 1 Pref Cloth 161 Blocks 7 Pref 5 Boxwood 162 Stand bracket bow 1 Pref 4 Sapele 163 Stand bracket stern 1 Pref 4 Sapele 164 Joining battens for stand brackets 3 4x4x130 Sapele

Cotton thread

Part No diam 0.15mm 62, 103, 151, 157, 159 Cotton thread

diam 0.25mm 78, 115, 121, 129, 134, 147 Cotton thread THE SULTAN DHOW 1 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP BY STEP

Check that all the necessary ship parts are present and that you have all the necessary paints, varnishes and glues and the ! tools that you need to build the model. Follow the steps CAREFULLY. 1 False keel and Frames 1 2 3 4

2 3 4 5 9 Bow

13 3 2 12 4 6 7 8 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5

14 15 1 11 12 13

Remove all the frames 2 to 13 and the vertical keel 1 from the 4mm plywood pre-cut sheet. It is advisable, after sanding them, to place them in 1order from bow to stern. Place them in the corresponding slots on the vertical keel 1, ensuring that each is perpendicular, making a 90º angle with the keel. Do not glue them yet. Glue the two bow strengtheners 15 to the vertical keel 1. Glue the two stern strengtheners 14 to frame 13, ensuring that they are at the same level as the vertical keel 1 (broken red line). Use white glue.

3 11 12 14 2 13

5 15 4

1 15

10 14 13 9 8 7 6 5 14 4 3 12 2 11

90° 15

90° 90° 1 Decks 2 2 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY 16 17

16 10mm 20

20 10mm

18

19 21 16

90° 16

18

19

20

Fit and adjust the decks 16, 18 and, with the nails 17, fit these decks onto the vertical keel (broken red lines). Glue the stern bulkhead 19 into its 2 corresponding slots so that it makes a 90º angle with the main deck 16. Fit and glue the bow deck 20 and the small central deck 21 in which the two holes for the mainmast are located. 3 Modelling the hull 1 16 17

90° 90° 90° 3 4 17 5 6 7 8

Glue the frames with a mixture of white glue and 20 per cent water so that they make a 90º angle with the vertical keel 1. With the nails 17, fix the 3 main deck 16 to the frames 3 to 10 (broken red lines).