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THE DIARY OF CHARLES HOLME’S 1889 VISIT TO JAPAN AND NORTH AMERICA Holme in Yokohama. Photographed at Farsari’s on 29 May 1889 THE DIARY OF CHARLES HOLME ’S 1889 V ISIT TO JAPAN AND NORTH AMERICA WITH MRS LASENBY LIBERTY ’S JAPAN : A PICTORIAL RECORD Edited by Toni Huberman, Sonia Ashmore and Yasuko Suga GLOBAL ORIENTAL THE DIARY OF CHARLES HOLME’S 1889 VISIT TO JAPAN AND NORTH AMERICA WITH MRS LASENBY LIBERTY’S JAPAN: A PICTORIAL RECORD Edited by Toni Huberman, Sonia Ashmore and Yasuko Suga First published 2008 by GLOBAL ORIENTAL LTD PO Box 219 Folkestone Kent CT20 2WP UK www.glogaloriental.co.uk Introduction © Toni Huberman, Sonia Ashmore, Yasuko Suga 2008 ISBN 978-1-905246-39-7 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A CIP catalogue entry for this book is available from the British Library Set in Garamond 11.5 on 13pt by Mark Heslington Ltd, Scarborough, North Yorkshire Printed and bound in England by Antony Rowe Ltd., Chippenham, Wiltshire C ONTENTS General Plates face opposite page xxvi Lasenby Liberty Plates and Commentaries face opposite page 106 Foreword by Sir Hugh Cortazzi vii List of General Plates ix List of Charles Holme’s Diary Illustrations ix List of Emma Lasenby Liberty’s Plates xi Acknowledgements xiii Introduction by Toni Huberman, Sonia Ashmore and Yasuko Suga xv Map of Japan showing principal towns and sites visited by Charles Holme xxvi THE DIARY OF CHARLES HOLME’S 1889 VISIT TO JAPAN AND NORTH AMERICA Part I – JAPAN : 28 March –7 June 1889 3 Part II – NORTH AMERICA : 7 June – 10 July 1889 69 Notes to Charles Holme’s Diary 91 JAPAN: A PICTORIAL RECORD 107 by Mrs Lasenby Liberty Edited and supplemented with a descriptive text by Mr Lasenby Liberty Bibliography 209 Index 211 F OREWORD was delighted to learn that a hitherto unpublished diary of a journey to IJapan and North America made in 1889 by Charles Holme had come to light. Holme was one of the first chairmen of the Japan Society’s council (1904–07) and the founder of the influential art journal, The Studio, which played such an important role in the history of art especially at the turn of the twentieth century. I also knew him as a friend of Sir Alfred East RA, whose diary of his visit to Japan I had edited in 1991. 1 Holme’s other travelling companions were his friend Lasenby Liberty, who founded the famous eponymous store in London’s West End, and Emma Lasenby Liberty, whose photographs of Japan I had seen in a privately printed edition. Fortunately, I managed to find a copy of this book thereby enabling reproduction of her photographs to be included in this volume. Holme was a business associate of Christopher Dresser who did so much to introduce Japanese art into Britain and became one of the most important designers of Victorian England. His book Japan: Its Architecture, Art and Art Manufactures, published in London in 1882, was a seminal work. Holme’s diary is not just another run-of-the-mill globe-trotter’s account of a visit to Japan in the late Victorian era. It is interesting for his descriptions of the places he visited in Japan and the people he met, including the young Rudyard Kipling, whose account of his two visits to Japan are contained in Kipling’s Japan: Collected Writings .2 More important are Holme’s sensitive reactions to aspects of Meiji Japan and to everyday Japanese objects. His sketches and drawings which he inserted into his diary add greatly to its interest. For Holme the journey marked a high point in his life and had a significant influence on his work as editor of The Studio . It made him a significant promoter of what became known in the West as Japonisme . HUGH CORTAZZI 1. A British Artist in Meiji Japan , Brighton: In Print Publishing, 1991 2. Co-edited with George Webb. London: Athlone, 1988. L IST OF G ENERAL P LATES 1. Charles Holme, family and friends at Two Bridges Hotel 1 2 Gwendolen Holme, Lady Liberty and Clara (Mrs Charles) Holme at Two Bridges Hotel 2 3 Liberty and Holme at Upton Grey 3 4. Holme & Co. advertisement, Japan 4 5. Mawe & Co. catalogue cover, Japan 5 6. The Studio , the first cover, 1893 6 7. The Studio (1911): ‘Japanese Ornamental Basket Work ’7 8. Yaami Hotel, Kyoto, advertisement 8 9. “Tea-house in the Village of Hakone’, by Alfred East 8 LIST OF HOLME DIARY ILLUSTRATIONS Japanese robes 9 Arrangement of flowers 12 Shoji and ramma 13 Mount Fujiyama 60 Wallpaper (Japanese leather paper) manufacturing process 68 The ‘curious shapes’ of burnt trees 73 NOTE: Of the six illustrations from Holme’s diary reproduced here, ‘Japanese robes’ (p. 9), ‘Arrangement of flowers’ (p. 12) and ‘Shoji and ramma ’ (p. 13) had to be taken from the carbon copy of the diary, whereas it was possible to use the original top sheet of the diary for the remaining three illustrations, i.e. ‘Mount Fujiyama’ (p. 60), ‘Wallpaper manufacturing process’ (p. 63) and ‘The curious shapes of burnt trees’ (p. 73). L IST OF E MMA L ASENBY L IBERTY ’ S P LATES Facing pages 106 View from Maruyama, Kyoto 109 Garden Shrine to the Rice Goddess, Kyoto 111 Chionin Monastery, Kyoto 113 The Golden Pavilion and Lake, Kyoto 115 Street near the Yasaka Pagoda, Kyoto 117 Approach to the Kodaiji Monastery, Kyoto 119 Street Acrobats, Otsu 121 The Deer Fountain at Nara 123 Avenue leading to a Temple, Nara 125 A Limb of the ancient pine tree at Karasaki 127 The Landing Stage at Karasaki, Lake Biwa 129 The Temple of Horyuji 131 Court Yard of an Inn at Sakamoto 133 Waiting Maids at an Inn, Nagoya 135 The Red Lacquer Bridge, Nikko 137 Stone Images of Jizo, by the river at Nikko 139 A Woodland Shrine at Nikko 141 Gateway to the Futarasan Jinja, Nikko 143 Avenue of Cryptomerias, Nikko 145 Mausoleum of the 1 st Shogun, The Second Gateway 147 Mausoleum of the 1 st Shogun, Third Gateway 149 Mausoleum of the 1 st Shogun, The Oratory, Nikko 151 Garden at Dainichi-do, near Nikko 153 Garden at Dainichi-do, near Nikko 155 Approach to the Mausoleum of the 3 rd Shogun, Iemitsu 157 Mountain Torrent above Nikko 159 The top of the pass between Nikko and Chuzenji 161 Mount Nantaizan from Lake Chuzenji 163 A Street in Ikao 165 Village Houses with lilies on the roofs 167 Mount Asamayama from below the Uzutoge Pass 169 Bridge in Dogashima Valley, near Miyanoshita 171 Strolling Samisen Player, Dogashima Valley 173 Stone Image of Jizo, near Hakone 175 Boiling Sulphur Valley, near Hakone 177 Mount Fujiyama from a garden at Mishima 179 xii LIST OF LIBERTY PLATES Nihonbashi Street, Tokyo 181 Mausoleum of the 2 nd Shogun, Drum Tower, Shiba 183 Mausoleum of the 2 nd Shogun, Interior of the Chapel 185 Exterior of the Gardener’s House, Shiba 187 Interior of the Gardener’s House, Shiba 189 Mausoleum of the 6 th Shogun, Bronze Gates, Shiba 191 Mausoleum of the 6 th Shogun, The Tomb, Shiba 193 Jinrikisha Coolie and Dwarf Tree, Shiba 195 Tea Plantation in the Suburbs of Tokyo 197 Stone Image of Binzuru, Suburbs of Tokyo 199 A Coolie and Votive Offerings, Suburbs of Tokyo 201 Corner of a Temple Court, Enoshima 203 Shore and Fishing Boat, Enoshima 205 Bronze Image of Amida, Kamakura 207 A CKNOWLEDGEMENTS ur thanks to Paul Holme and Jay de Simone, great grandchildren of OCharles Holme, for allowing us to publish the Holme diary; to Stephen Calloway, Curator of Prints, Word and Image, Victoria and Albert Museum, who was instrumental in bringing the Holme archive to the Museum and has been an enthusiastic supporter of the project, and to Christopher Marsden, Senior Archivist, Word and Image, Victoria and Albert Museum for his help and unfailing support. Thanks especially to Sir Hugh Cortazzi, without whom this book might never have been published, and for his great kindness in acquiring the volume of Liberty photographs and making them available to us. To the Daiwa Anglo-Japanese Foundation who awarded us a grant making it possible to visit Japan, and to Tsuda College, Tokyo, for their hospitality and support of the open symposium: ‘British Japonisme and Charles Holme: Asian Trade, The Studio and his trip to Japan ’. Thanks too, to Harunori Ohmori and Midori Ohmori for making our stay in Kyoto such a pleasurable experience, and to Gregory Irvine, Senior Curator, Japan, Victoria and Albert Museum, for reading the final manuscript and con - tributing many helpful suggestions . NOTE ON THE TEXT What survives of Holme’s original handwritten diary is now in the possession of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, together with the complete carbon copy. The version that appears here is a virtually un-edited transcript of that copy. Had he known that his account would one day appear in print, Holme might have rewritten some of the more awkward passages, but its uniqueness is in the immediacy of the experiences he describes, and it deserves to be read ‘as written ’. Holme made a number of sketches in the diary to illustrate items of partic - ular interest or curiosity. Some were no more than doodles.
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