A FREE WRANGELL STIKINE RIVER 23 12 LOCAL TOTEMS BORN IN FUR AND RAISED ON GOLD, WRANGELL REACHED ADULTHOOD THROUGH MAPS 2 Guides to all the best spots 14 ROUGH AND OFTEN RUGGED UPBRINGING. 2021 Wrangell Sentinel’s visitors guide and vacation planner Welcome to friendly Wrangell 1 Wrangell o!ers a true taste of small-town Alaska life with residents who Table of Contents welcome visitors Cover photo: Award-winning Juneau History 2 photographer Mark Kelley first visited Wrangell’s character was forged by the optimism of three gold rushes Wrangell more than 40 years ago as a and the clash of great world powers in its backyard judge in the Wrangell Sentinel’s annual photo contest. Later, he discovered Anan Getting here 3 By air or by sea, the journey here is a big part of the fun Creek and its bears, including these two cubs in a tree, and had been there 11 years in a row until the pandemic canceled his A community gathering place 6 The Nolan Center is a true multi-use facility, housing the civic center, 2020 visit. More photos at markkelly.com visitors bureau, theater and museum
Kids gems 7 Explore the Stikine 23 From mining to picnics to hot springs, the river has it all How Wrangell’s world-class garnets ended up in the hands of children
Take a walk 10 Petroglyph Beach 24 Hiking, sightseeing and enjoying the island Mysterious carved stones that have ba!eled historians
Totems 12 Fishing 28 Where to find them and e!orts to preserve them Everything you'll need for a day out on the water
Downtown map 14 Golfing 30 Landmarks and local businesses Relax and play through Southeast Alaska's first regulation 9-hole North Wrangell Map 15 golf course Wrangell Island 16 Camping 31 Make your great escape to the camp sites and cabins in the area. Anan Creek bears 19 A seafood bu!et on display where black and brown bears feast side-by- Edible Alaska 32 side Wild berries are abundant, juicy and free for the picking.
Churches 14 The Wrangell Guide Looking to visit some of Wrangell's historic holy places? Copyright 2021, the Wrangell Sentinel Published by the Wrangell Sentinel, PO Box 798 Wrangell, AK 99929; 907-874- 2301; [email protected]
The Stikine River 20 Thank you to Mark Kelley, Rich E Rich Photography and Vincent Balansag and A true highway to the wilderness other contributors for the amazing photos in the guide. Production by Rashah McChesney, advertising sales by Amber Armstrong, editor and publisher Larry Persily. Looking for a guide? 22 Wrangell's charter operators o!er everything from freight-shipping to No part of the Wrangell Guide may be reproduced or used without the written fishing to Stikine River tours permission of the Wrangell Sentinel. 1 A memorable Welcome to friendly Wrangell small town WRANGELL, ONE OF THE MOST historic communities in Alaska, is the only town in the state to have on an island been ruled by four nations, Tlingit, Russia, United Kingdom and the United States. in the Wrangell also has the reputation for being the “friendliest little town in Southeast Alaska.” middle of Located on the northern tip of 30-mile-long Wrangell Island, Wrangell is a community of about the pristine 2,300 people, set amid the forests and mountains of Alaska’s Alaska Panhandle along the scenic Inside Passage. The island has a mild climate with wilderness temperatures seldom dipping below freezing in the winter. Rain is more common than snow and Wrangell was summer temperatures range anywhere from the mid-50s to the incorporated mid-70s. Wrangell is 750 miles north in 1903, but of Seattle, 85 miles north of A Southeast Alaska resident enjoys the bounty of her shrimp haul from the very little of the Ketchikan, and 150 miles south of Wrangell Back Channel. (Photo by Mark Kelley) Juneau, the state capital. original town It sits near the delta of the Stikine River. operations and the development of River, an important resource in the Between here and there lie many the tourism industry. remains. Much lives of those who live here. lakes and rivers available for Wrangell has a fleet of hand At Wrangell’s back door is camping, fishing, and wildlife viewing. and power trollers, seiners, and of downtown neighboring British Columbia, the Wrangell has periodically seen gillnet vessels. Salmon is the westernmost province of Canada. declines in its economy due to major product, along with halibut, was decimated On a clear day you can see the constraints on the timber and fishing shrimp, crab and herring. Several majestic, snowcapped mountains industries. The region continues to seafood processors are scattered by fire first in to the north and east of Wrangell clamor for stability for its human throughout town. Individual 1906 and again Island, which spill to the coast. inhabitants through the ever- fishermen have been known to sell The border is just hours away via changing sport and commercial their catch to residents or visitors in 1952. airplane or boat up the Stikine fishing industries, small-scale timber on the docks in the downtown harbor area. You can watch the catches being hauled onto the docks and sample some of the freshest seafood you’ll ever taste. Wrangell shrimp are famous for their delectable flavor. From large, luscious prawns to the small salad variety, the shrimp truly melt in your mouth. Local restaurants feature shrimp in dinners and salads. Shrimp are also sold by local fishermen and processors and packaged for shipping. Wrangell offers a true taste of small town Alaskan life with friendly residents who welcome visitors. Everyone in town is an unofficial greeter. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need help. 2 Stikine River key to Wrangell history
Born in fur and raised on gold, Wrangell reached adulthood through a rough and often rugged upbringing.
NOW A MORE COMFORTABLE According to Zuboff’s telling, others the crew of the tender Chatham, more serious look at the river, and stable community based on were afraid to float under the which accompanied the Discovery, specifically its value as a direct fishing, tourism and government glacier, so they traveled over it and were the first white men known to trade route to the fur resources of employment, its character was later became known as the Chilkats. have sailed the waters surrounding the interior. forged by the optimism of three gold And there is mystery, too. Little is Wrangell. The coastal Alaska Natives had rushes and the clash of two great known of the who or why of carved Among colonizers, credit for who long been trading with the Interior world powers in Wrangell’s own images into stone, possibly more discovered the mouth of the river groups, and in about 1811 the backyard. than 8,000 years ago. traditionally is given to the Russians began trading with the That backyard -- the magnificent U.S. vessel Atahualpa, in 1802. Tlingit living near the site of present- Stikine River -- has been the SUCH STONE CARVINGS known as It was the Russian American Co., day Wrangell. dominating force in Wrangell’s story petroglyphs, are located throughout however, that decided to take a to pg 4 since before recorded history. Southeast Alaska and British Thanks mainly to its unique Columbia. On Wrangell Island, situation as the Gateway to the the largest group of carvings is Stikine, Wrangell has a wealth of on the beach at the north end of unusual history matched by few the island, with others scattered other Alaska towns, and is one of throughout the community. the oldest communities in the state. Petroglyphs have been brought A water highway to the resources inside the museum and in front of and scenic splendor of the coastal the library. interior, the Stikine is the fastest Although the number of navigable river on the continent. explanations for the carvings is Its delta meets the Inside Passage about the same as the number of just seven miles northeast of anthropologists who have examined Wrangell. them, Wrangell’s carvings are considered by some as unique THERE ARE STORIES of Tlingit in their depiction of the macabre people arriving in the region via the and supernatural beings. Stikine River. At least one theory claims the In Nora Marks and Richard petroglyphs were carved by ancient Above: A fishing boat heads home with the day’s catch, seen from Petro- Dauenhauer’s “Haa Shuká, shamans, usually at secluded glyph Beach. Our Ancestors,” Robert Zuboff sites. Below: Three Frogs Totem is located in front of the Shakes Tribal House. (Kak’weidí Clan, Kaakáakw Hít) Other researchers claim the (Photo by Vincent Balansag) recounts in “Basket Bay History,” carvings were connected to rites of that at one place on the blood sacrifice. Stikine they found it flowing under a The petroglyphs, which face the glacier. water and the setting sun, may be So, they tied a raft together and viewed at low or near-low put two elderly women -- Awasti and tide. Koowasikx - on it and then pushed them under the glacier. IN MORE RECENT HISTORY, Capt. “Having drifted under it and through George Vancouver, of the British to the other side, they started Royal Navy, missed finding the singing. Floating under the glacier mouth of the Stikine River in gave them their song. Based on 1793 on his five-year voyage of this a raft was made. Some went on exploration around the world it. Under it, under the glacier, they aboard the sloop Discovery. floated down the river,” Zuboff said. Nonetheless, he, his crew and 3 By air or by sea, getting here is part of the fun
Above: An Alaska Airlines jet lands at the Wrangell Airport. (Photo by Vincent Balansag) Below: An eagle lands on a light pole in Wrangell.(Photo by Rich E. Rich photography)
Birding Festival APRIL 18 - MAY 8 Wrangell Salmon Derby TO BE DETERMINED Independence Day Celebrations Sunset at Heritage Harbor, only about 1 mile from downtown. (Photo by JULY 2-4, Vincent Balansag) Bearfest THERE ARE NO ROADS JULY 28 - AUG.1 to Wrangell, but it’s easy to get here. Pumpkin Patch Festival The Alaska Airlines jet OCTOBER 23 flies north from Seattle via Ketchikan each day. Sunrise Aviation offers charter flights and sightseeing services. The cargo door was open and the ferry Wrangell airport has RANGELL EATHER LeConte ready to take on vehicles for the WRANGELL WEATHER navigational aids for use voyage to Ketchikan.(Photo by Caleb Vier- when cloud cover gets kant/Wrangell Sentinel) heavy. It’s 1.5 miles north of town. State ferries on the Alaska Marine Highway System service Wrangell northbound from Bellingham, Washington, Prince Rupert B.C., and Average Daylight: Hours Ketchikan, Alaska. Ferries also serve Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, 7 10 13 14 17 19 17 16 13 10 98 Haines and Skagway, with routes to Hoonah, Tenakee Springs, Kake, JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Angoon, Metlakatla and Steward/Hyder. The schedules have changed frequently in recent years and ticket Average High Temperature: °F prices increase closer to the sailing date, so book early. The state 34 38 42 49 56 62 64 63 58 49 41 36 ferry terminal is on Stikine JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Avenue. The state ferry system is recognized as an official “Scenic Byway,” the only one in the 874-3648 Average Monthly Precipitation: Inches United States where vehicles 6.9 5.4 5.2 4.6 4.6 3.9 4.5 5.6 9.3 12.8 8.6 7.9 get to ride as well. Quilting Supplies & Fabric JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC 4
Chief Shakes House is located on Shakes Island in the middle of Reliance Harbor. (Photo by Mark Kelley)
History, from pg 2 stretching across whole outfitted the brig Dryad to sail named for Zarembo’s patron saint. hemispheres, was to be played out in from Fort Vancouver on the The Tlingit village at that time was WITH ITS NEW WORLD a remote and obscure corner of the Columbia River to the Stikine River located about 13 miles south, at a wild now known as Wrangell Island. to establish a permanent trading site now known as Old Wrangell. headquarters at Sitka -- called New A treaty had been signed between post upriver. The company The village was later moved to the Archangel -- the Russian American Co. the two nations in 1824-25 granting previously had explored the area, harbor area, in the 1860s. ruled the fur trade of the Alexander the British the right to use with the idea of building an Archipelago, as well as the rest of navigable streams along the coast outpost. AT LEAST ONE HISTORIAN claims Alaska. crossing Russian territory on their The Russians, however, had definite Baron Ferdinand von Wrangel, But its hold was soon to be way to the sea, providing no thoughts of their own on the subject manager of the Russian American challenged by the British Hudson’s Russian settlement stood in the of protecting the Stikine fur trade, Company of New Archangel Bay Co., and the showdown way. and in 1833 Lt. Dionysius Zarembo at the time, was hoping for a between the two commercial giants, With an eye toward Stikine fur and a band of men were sent from confrontation, eager for the treaty to each with a vast network of trade trade, the British company in 1833 New Archangel to build a fort near be abandoned. the mouth of the Stikine. The baron had already scratched A spot was chosen near the north a treaty with the U.S. government, end of Wrangell Island, where the allowing whaling crews to Marine Bar and Pizza stands today, come ashore at New Archangel, and the fort was completed in protesting they were an unruly August of 1834. Fort St. Dionysius, bunch of scoundrels. or Redoubt St. Dionysius, was He charged the British with the same offenses, perhaps based somewhat more on politics and the advancing Hudson’s Bay trade 907 empire than fact. The baron got his confrontation in 305-0117 1834. 12 The Dryad approached the mouth 5 of the Stikine, and was greeted by a Germany, in which the British volley from the fort and the Russian waived damages from the incident brig Chichagof, at anchor near the in exchange for a 10-year lease of fort. the coastline for an annual payment Zarembo then boarded the British of 2,000 land otter skins. ship, protesting the entry of a In addition, the Hudson’s Bay British vessel into a river in Russian Co. agreed to provide specified territory. provisions to New Archangel, and In turn, Peter Ogden, commander an era of relative cooperation of the Dryad and one of the more between the two companies and notable of the Hudson’s Bay countries ensued -- at least on the agents, protested. His protest to the Russian action was forwarded to New Archangel, With the where, in the absence of the baron, Capt. Adolph Etolin supported arrival of Zarembo’s action. (Photo by Vincent Balansag) Stalemated, Ogden still refused to hundreds turn tail. 1861 of gold on the Stikine River, strained relations. It was left to the third party in the of gold seekers, three years after the rush on Fraser Capt. William Moore took a steamer scenario -- as yet not consulted -- to River, British Columbia. Flying Dutchman upriver, pushing force Ogden into retreat. Wrangell began Alex “Buck” Choquette, made the a barge bringing miners and The Tlingit themselves protested first claim -- on Buck’s Bar -- and set provisions to the camps. any other party going up the river the first of its up his own trading post right across The Tlingit rioted, saying the to trade with the interior tribes, the river. boisterous craft would upset moose an ancient trade right they fiercely three lives as a With the arrival of hundreds of gold and salmon, and finally were paid maintained. seekers, Wrangell began the first of with Hudson’s Bay blankets to As expected, the British protested gold rush boom its three lives as a gold rush boom restore order. to the Russian Imperial government, town. The 1861 rush was over only a few and an agreement eventually was town. But with the onslaught came years after it began, when the gold reached in 1839 in Hamburg, continuing problems for the Alaska deposit was found to be of North American continent. Native community, sporadic limited extent. incidents usually spurred by liquor, THE BRITISH FLAG was raised opportunism and exploitation, or WITH THE LOWERING of the over the fort June, 1, 1840, and varying combinations of all the Russian flag at Sitka on Oct. 18, Russia’s Redoubt St. Dionysius was above continued to occur. 1867, Fort Stikine and the rest of renamed Fort. Stikine. During the Hudson’s Bay era, as Alaska became a possession of the The lease with the British was during the later American military United States. A new fort , named renewed until the United States occupation, the troops at Wrangell Fort Wrangell, after the baron, was purchased Alaska from Russia in “were like a pestilence to the built from 1868-70 at the site of 1867, making Wrangell the only city Stikines,” as one historian put it, today’s post office. in Alaska to have been ruled under “proving the old frontier adage that A Customs officer also was The “High Point” of three flags. the army was more deadly to the stationed at the site, though it was Your Alaskan Adventure Indians in the barracks than in the later abandoned by the army. • Water Taxi BUT FUR, which had attracted battlefield.” By 1873, only three white men • Telegraph Creek. BC Hudson’s Bay, was to face The introduction of steamship remained in Wrangell, including the • Freight Hauling competition with the discovery in service up the Stikine further U.S. Customs officer. See pg 8 • Inland Waters • Stikine River • LeConte Glacier Hungry • Onboard Bathroom THE BEST PIZZA Ranked #1 in passenger safety and comfort IN SE ALASKA Beaver Pizza & Marine Bar Pizza and other menu items Located near served at 4:00 pm. Inner Harbor A full service bar with Karaoke Summit Charters 640 Shakes Street John W. Taylor, every Saturday night, Open 7 days a week Captain starting at 10:00 pm. 10 am - 2 am Cell: (907) 305-0416 Large outdoor deck 907-874-3005 www.summitcharters.com and friendly staff. 6 A community gathering place The James and Elsie Nolan Center houses the Wrangell Museum, Visitors Center and Theater
The Nolan Center is a true multi- use facility, housing the civic center, visitors bureau, theater and museum.
THE WRANGELL MUSEUM The Wrangell Museum highlights furs to touch and feel). the rich cultural history of Wrangell, Next visit the Gold Rush section – HIGHLIGHTS THE RICH the only town in Alaska to have been representing when Wrangell was a ruled by four nations; Tlingit, Russia, major trade center for three gold CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE Britain, and the United States. rushes. Wrangell was even well known The museum provides an interactive by a few famous faces including Wyatt AREA WITH AN INTERACTIVE walk-through Wrangell’s history, from Earp who served as a the time of the Tlingit rule, through temporary town marshal and John WALK-THROUGH OF THE the government of Russian-American Muir who wrote about his many (Photos by Vincent Balansag) Fur Co., British Hudson Bay Co., adventures. AREA PRECOLONIZATION Alaska Territory and statehood to Then get to know the missionaries gallery. present day. and learn about their influence on Further into the lobby are the two THROUGH TODAY. As you enter the facility it’s hard the wild frontier town as well as their totems overlooking a replica of the to miss the stunning Chief Shakes impact on Tlingit culture. There is Stikine River Delta inlaid on the SINCE ITS OPENING in 2004, the house posts. These house posts also a Trading Post in the center of floor. Overhead, an advanced light- James and Elsie Nolan Center has were created between 1775 and the gallery with a seated video area. ing system displays the northern become a well-established part of the 1790 and are accredited to the Experience the industries of the area, lights on the ceiling. community and town skyline. Housed famous master carver Kadjisdu.a’xch including fishing and timber. Don’t The Visitors Center houses an within the Nolan Center are the II. They are thought to be the oldest miss the Collection Storage viewing interactive map of the island and Wrangell Museum, the Wrangell Con- still in existence today. window in the back hallway, housing Stikine River Delta. Here, visitors vention Center, the Wrangell Visitors Around the corner into the Russian more Tlingit regalia. can also find maps, brochures, and Center, and Castle Mountain Theater. period, and the fur trade (filled with Finally, your journey winds into the photos. Representatives from the 20th Century – this area is packed U.S. Forest Service are available on full of Wrangell’s more recent history, days when a boat is in town. including many families that still A small theater next to the Visitors reside on our quaint little island. You Center has seating for 24, while the may even be inclined to take another large theater seats 200 in a stadi- stroll through the gallery in order to um style setup. This space is used truly take it all in! for various purposes including Cas- LOCATED AT THE AIRPORT In addition to the current exhibits in tle Mountain Theater, convention the main gallery, the museum’s stor- space, and other community events. (907) 874-3975 Free Shuttle Service age is available for viewing through More information is available by Email:[email protected] to downtown a window in the back of the main phone at 907-874-3770. 7 World-class Wrangell garnets held in trust for children
A garnet mine on the mainland across from Wrangell was donated to the Boy Scouts, with the stipulation that the kids of Wrangell be allowed to sell the rocks to fund their education. It is common to see children selling their garnets near the state terminal and city dock. (Photo by Ryan Forsythe/Flickr)
AMONG THE HEIRLOOMS of forms, though not – according to Bill Garnet Mining & Manufacturing to mine garnets from the ledge, Wrangell’s long history, one shines Privett, the facilities manager for the Company in Wrangell and Minne- since he was counted as “a child particularly brightly. church – on an industrial scale. apolis, Minn. It was the first female of Wrangell,” Privett said. In other Fred Hanford bequeathed the Garnets are semi-precious gem- company incorporated in the United instances, local suitably mature chil- Garnet Ledge in 1962 to the Boy stones forged in the heat of meta- States. dren have accompanied enthusias- Scouts of America and the Presbyte- morphic rock. Part of the manufacturing process tic geologists up the Stikine River to rian Church “for only so long as the They represent a family of semi-pre- involved crushing the garnets for the ledge to see their gemstones. said grantee…shall use the land for cious stones, and the Wrangell use in sandpaper. The company A nearby U.S. Forest Service Scouting purposes and shall permit garnet is of the type known as the remained active until 1936. maintained cabin is available for the children of Wrangell to take almandine or carbuncle. They are In 2002, the Scouts quit-claimed those wishing for some extra time to garnets therefrom in reasonable composed of iron, aluminum and their portion of the deed, leaving it mine, though prior permission is still quantities.” silica. the sole property of the Presbyteri- required from the Church in order to It was the birth of a multigeneration- The garnets have been minded an Church of Wrangell. access the property. al youth industry, which continues industrially in the past. In 1907, Because of the condition of the will, The cabin is on federal land, but the today in both retail and wholesale two sisters incorporated the Alaska the church insists that any adults ledge and its deep scarlet prizes, wishing to dig their own garnets are on private property. out of a shelf of metamorphic rock “We don’t want to be garnet cops,” Fish Wrangell.com must be accompanied by a child of Privett said. “We want to be garnet Wrangell, Privett said. The Church shepherds.” WHERE THE FISH ARE WAITING FOR YOU! interprets the conditions to allow for Children are allowed to sell the Call Today! 907 209 2190 children very recently of Wrangell to fruits of their labor to tour boats, count. and to wholesale them to the local or email For example, a couple from Wyo- gift shops, giving them an up-close [email protected] ming accompanied by their geologi- learning experience with business cally enthusiastic son were allowed and commerce. 8
Photos by Vincent Balansag Fishing, canneries and the lumber mill brought the town economic stability that gold and furs could not provide History, from pg 5 The most Their solitude was to be short- lived. inhospitable
IN THE PREVIOUS YEAR, place at first two prospectors returned from Dease Lake in the Cassiar sight I had region of the Canadian interior after finding gold. They then ever seen. left for Victoria for the winter, seeking reinforcements and returned in the spring with a whole party of hopefuls, including noisy Capt. Moore. The Cassiar gold rush went on, marking the second boom for Wrangell and bringing thousands of miners and everything thousands of miners needed, or at least wanted. Gambling, good-time girls and dance halls flourished, Lear built a new wharf.
CAPT. MOORE AND HIS SONS and others built a thriving steam boat business to bring out the gold and bring in the business. The troops were withdrawn in 1877, but not before a young soldier, touched by the plight of the Alaska Native people living in the region, wrote a letter appealing for someone to help them. Mrs. Amanda R. McFarland wrote the response. A Presbyterian missionary from Portland, Oregon, she was brought to Wrangell in August by Dr. Sheldon Jackson -- one of Alaska’s foremost missionaries. Though her arrival marked the first permanent appointment to missionary in Wrangell, she was preceded by a Methodist missionary named Philip McKay. 9
And long before, in 1836, the remarkable Father Veniaminof of the feet high” -- frightened many people Orthodox faith had travelled to Fort Dionysius to teach the Stikine people. and astonished both the Customs He celebrated the Orthodox liturgy before 1,500 Alaska Native people who collector and Young. By the time Young he reported “looked on with great attention.” left Wrangell in 1888, although he was Mrs. McFarland established the first school here, the McFarland Home for later to return, the Cassiar rush had all but died. The second boom was Native American Girls. She was joined in her efforts in 1878 by Rev. S. Hall over. Young, who founded the Presbyterian Church. WHAT WAS LEFT WAS PEACEFUL. The army was gone, but the churches IN 1879, THE NOTED AMERICAN NATURALIST JOHN MUIR arrived in stayed and a U.S. commissioner had been appointed. The Aberdeen salmon Wrangell which he called “the most inhospitable place at first sight I had packing cannery at the mouth of the Stikine opened in 1887, the first in the ever seen.” Muir said the Wrangell village was a rough place, Wrangell area. “No mining hamlet in the placer gulches of California, nor any backwoods See pg 26 village I ever saw, approached it in picturesque, devil-may-care abandon. It was a lawless draggle of wooden huts and houses, built in crooked lines, wrangling around the boggy shore of the island for a mile or so in the general form of the letter S, without the slightest subordination to INVITES YOU TO the points of the compass or to building laws of any kind.” He and Young travelled and explored Southeast together both later writing GO in great detail of their experiences at Glacier Bay and elsewhere. The hill behind Wrangell, now known as Mount Dewey for many years, was called Muir Mountain after he climbed it on a stormy night and built a large FLIGHT-SEEING camp fire to better commune • Charter service to Telegraph Creek, B.C., with nature. The fire -- which Muir reported as a “pillar of flame thirty or forty • Transportation to all U.S. Forest Service Cabins & Anan Wildlife Observatory • Custom Charters
Call us for all your air charter needs Float & wheelplane services throughout the Alaska Panhandle & Canada At Wrangell Airport Email: [email protected] P.O. Box 1440, Wrangell, AK 99929 12 (907) 874-2319 10 Hiking, sightseeing and enjoying the island
behind the high school, or up McKinnon Street to the set of stairs
leading up to Reid Street, veer left and follow the residential street
until it becomes a narrow dirt road. A sign points the way to the
trail.
VOLUNTEER TRAIL
For a short but pleasant walk near town, head for Evergreen
Elementary School and the baseball fields behind it. Taking either (Photo by Rich E. Rich photography) the route between the two fields or north past the tennis courts, a
Wrangell offers many scenic gravel trail meanders through the muskeg with interpretative signs spots for picnicking and camping from easily reachable pointing out particular flora and fauna, as well as occasional City Park and Shoemaker Bay, to benches to rest on, courtesy of the U.S. Forest Service. the more remote Nemo Point. SHOEMAKER BAY CITY PARK
Shoemaker Bay RV Park is located about five miles south of town,
Located about a mile south of Zimovia Highway, the waterfront along Zimovia Highway. The park offers 25 sites open exclusive- park is adjacent to an historic cemetary and an old baseball field ly to RV and trailer campers – $30 with electricity, $20 without. now in use as the Community Garden. The park contains picnic All sites have excellent views of Zimovia Strait and neighboring tables, shelters and restrooms. Tent camping is restricted to 24 Woronkofski Island. hours. Camping is not allowed inside shelters. Overnight parking is A freshwater pump is located near the entrance to Shoemaker prohibited. Harbor parking lot. Facilities are on a first-come, first-served basis;
Avid cyclists may want to take advantage of the paved bike trail no reservations taken. along Zimovia Strait, which starts near the Public Safety Building A holding tank dumpsite for RVs has been installed in the harbor and runs past Shoemaker Park. parking lot. There are also restrooms and a dumpster. A tent camp-
ing area is located in a wooded spot near a creek. South of the MOUNT DEWEY creek is a tennis court, restrooms and picnic shelter.
Located right behind downtown, this large tree-covered hill is a Tent campers should use the designated camping area only. quick hike for a fine view of Wrangell and Zimovia Strait. Inquire at City Hall at 907-874-2381 or Parks and Recreation at
A trail leads up the hill from downtown. Go up to Third Street 907-874-2444. RAINBOW FALLS NORTH WRANGELL TRAIL 11
(Moderate to Difficult) (Difficult to most difficult)This trail begins 2.2 miles from the Rain-
Just across Zimovia Highway from Shoemaker Bay camping areas bow Falls Trailhead via Rainbow Falls and Institute Creek Trails. is Rainbow Falls Trail, which offers a self-guided hike through the The trail leads 1.3 miles to the High Country Shelter and continues pristine Southeast Alaska rainforest. A little less than a mile up the another 1 mile to the Pond Shelter. Shelters are three-sided with trails is a beautiful view of Rainbow Falls; a tenth of a mile later, picnic table and an outhouse. An optional starting pointing is from the trail ends above the waterfall and provides spectacular views the trailhead at the parking area on the Spur Road Extension, of Chichagof Pass, Zimovia Strait and surrounding islands. Viewing approximately 3.6 miles from the intersection of Bennett Street and platforms and bench seating make this a great place for a picnic. the beginning of Ishiyama Drive (Spur Road). This trail is surfaced
The trail intersects with Institute Creek Trail. with a boardwalk.
INSTITUTE CREEK PATS LAKE
(Difficult to most difficult) Pats Lake recreation area is located 11 miles south of downtown
If you choose to continue from the Rainbow Falls Trail, this trek Wrangell, at a crossroads where dirt roads branch off Zimovia High- offers many scenic views from another 2.7 miles (and a total 1,500- way. The first road to the left goes by Pats Lake, while the second foot gain in elevation) on the way to Shoemaker Bay Overlook. turn-off leads to Pats Creek.
There’s pleasant hiking along an easy mile-long trail from Pats Lake, SHOEMAKER BAY OVERLOOK SHELTER which follows Pats Creek as it empties into the sea. Several varie-
ties of trout are found in the lake and creek. The creek also has a There’s a three-sided shelter, picnic table, fire grill and outhouse, fall salmon run. The turn off to the right leads down to a log dump and an excellent view of Shoemaker Bay Harbor, and Zimovia Strait. on the water. A short walk north – and back across Zimovia Highway
– leads to the mouth of Pats Creek to a sandy point, which is good
for picnicking or a little seaside relaxation as well as an occasional
haunt of local saltwater fly fishermen. 12 A brief guide to Wrangell’s totem poles
behind the clan house. REMINDERS OF RICH The lowest figure on the pole clasps an object representing TLINGIT CULTURE CAN BE SEEN strength or spirit. When this spirit would come, the THROUGHOUT WRANGELL. doctor would tell the people to tie up all their belongings or his MANY OF THE TOTEM POLES strength would get them. This made the people ashamed ARE DUPLICATES OF TOTEMS and they decided the doctor must die. THAT STOOD IN WRANGELL IN They laid the doctor in the bottom of a canoe and paddled out to sea THE 1800S. and began throwing the doctor’s belongings overboard. The people then placed a mat in SHAKES ISLAND TRIBAL the water for the doctor to step HOUSE into. The mat disappeared under Shakes Island is on the National the waves, and a strong wind Register as a historic monument broke the canoe in half. All the site. Construction on the house people perished except a grand- ended June 1940, about the time son. Southeast Alaska Natives gathered The center figure clasping an adze to name the last Chief Shakes. is Na-chee-su-na, who carved The Tribal House is an exact double the first killer whales from yellow of high-case Tlingit residences cedar, according to Tlingit oral before Christian missionaries history. forcibly ended traditional commu- The figure at the top of pole is the nal residency. The building’s Tlingit legendary Killisnoo hunter Scow- name is Shéksh Hi’di. qua. Carved replicas of the Naanyaa. The Eagle Totem is 44 feet tall aayí Clan and the Kids.ádi Clan On the way to Shakes Island, the poles at Totem Park commemorate the and three feet wide. It was carved house posts adorn the interior of former site of the Sun House. (Photo by Vincent Balansag) from a single cedar log in the late the structure. Carvers created the 1930s as part of Civilian Conserva- original house posts in the late EAGLE TOTEM stood at the entrance to Shakes tion Corps efforts during the Great 1700s. The Eagle Totem – also called Island before being moved to its Depression. Local Native organizations re- the Na-chee-su-na Totem – once present location under shelter furbished the building’s façade – which contains donated human hair along the top of the entry carving and the interior - and rededicated the building in a 2013 ceremony that drew Alaska Natives from across Southeast. 13
The late Marge Byrd (Shaawat Shoo'goo and Teey Tix' Tl'aa) of the Kiks.adi Clan inside of the Chief Shakes Clan House. (Photo by Mark Kelley)
creation story. Below that is the Sun House and the original home of The totem was erected in 1895 to SHAKES GRAVE MARKERS thunderbird. the Kiks.ádi totem. honor Chief Kaalteen, head of the Two totems off of Case Avenue mark An eagle adorns the top of the other Along with the Naanyaa.aayí, the Wrangell Kiks.ádi. the corners of Chief Shakes’s grave, pole, atop a crane and a Gunaaka- Kiks.ádi are among the clans that the third set of killer whale totems deit, or sea monster. call Wrangell home. See pg 18 erected at the site. THREE FROGS TOTEM CHIEF KADASHAN TOTEMS The three frogs on the post rep- Two additional totems once stood resent three Kiks.ádi women who on the left side of the Shakes became lovers of three of Chief house. Like the Eagle Totem, they Shakes’ slaves. Shakes presented were moved to a covered area the Kiks.ádi chief with a bill for the behind the Shakes House. women’s maintenance, but the The Kadashan Red Snapper pole is chief refused to pay. He ordered the 40 feet tall and 4.3 feet wide. women ejected from the tribe and Its twin, the Kadashan Haida Staff had the ridicule pole carved. pole is 36 feet tall and three feet The pole appears, among other wide. Civilian Conservation Corps places, in the masthead of the carvers 80 years ago based the Wrangell Sentinel newspaper. present poles – said to be among the more successful copies made TOTEM PARK during that area – on originals Totem Park is located at the carved in the Kaigani Haida Style in intersection of Front and Episcopal about 1860. streets. The pole surmounted by the figure It has been there since 1987, of a man representing the Tlingit commemorating a totem restoration creator NaasShakée Yeíl also fea- project undertaken by the Wrangell tures a Raven with a man between Cultural Heritage committee. his wings representing the Tlingit The site is the former home of the
16 1717 18
Wrangell Bearfest attendees watch a Tlingit dance hosted by the Wrangell Cooperative Association on July 25, 2014 in the Chief Shakes Tribal House. (James Brooks photo)
Totem, from pg 13 The replicated totem was carved without power tools. The frog carved in the totem is the clan emblem. Above: Presenters at the 2014 Wrangell Bearfest walk down a narrow boardwalk in 2014 at the Anan Wildlife Observatory. (Photo by James POST OFFICE TOTEM Brooks/Flickr) The last carved by Thomas Ukas in the 1960s, the Raven totem stands On page 19: in front of the Wrangell Post Office. Like many totems in Wrangell, this is a A family of brown bears at the observatory. (Photo by Mark Kelley) Right: replica of an older pole. Brown bears and black bears coexist alongside each other at the Anan Wild- Weather destroyed the original several years before Ukas made his version life Observatory. (Photos by Rich E Rich Photography) using hand mixed paints to ensure color authenticity.
ONE-LEGGED FISHERMAN Erected in 1897 and originally located on Cemetery Point – near the com- munity garden – the one-legged fisherman records the story of Tlingit hero Lkayák’w. It is now located in Totem Park.
ONGOING PRESERVATION EFFORTS. These totems represent just a fraction of the poles once publicly displayed in Wrangell. A number of other poles have been damaged or destroyed by weather over the years. The Wrangell Cooperative Association, owns and maintains the Chief Shakes Tribal House. They restored and re-dedicated the Chief Shakes clan house. They then constructed a Carving Shed. Native master carvers from Southeast Alaska use that space and traditional implements - and the occasional chainsaw - to refurbish or re-carve poles no longer able to stand up to the rigors of Alaskan winter. The eventual hope is to establish a resident master carver in Wrangell. 19 Anan: A bear bu!et on display Bears are drawn to the wildlife observatory for one reason, salmon.
THE ABUNDANCE OF FISH allows the normal solitary bears to tolerate one another in close company, cre- ating a viewing opportunity unique in Southeast. In addition, black and brown bears They’re going to go where they’re between July 5 and August 25. streams, but a nearby hiking trail work the salmon stream together, going to get the most food. To Although the observatory is open also provides opportunities for bear which is atypical of areas where the come here, they have to tolerate outside of the permit season, the encounters. U.S. Forest Service two species’ ranges overlap. each other. It makes for a unique best time for a close encounter of statistics – the service tracks For example, Baranof, Chichagof experience," Gala said. the bear kind falls between July 5 - virtually all information about the and Kruzof islands are the exclusive The fishy bounty also means the August 25. bears – suggest a visitor can stay domain of brown bears, according bears seen at Anan are unusually Galla said the observatory draws at the observatory only 10 minutes to the Alaska Department of Fish tolerant of humans. people from all over the world and and see at least two bears. and Game. The bears get along “It’s not because they like people,” so far she has seen groups from A regular roster of resident bears because – like amiable buffet Galla said. “It’s just that they have Canada, Germany and Australia. has earned names based on their patrons – they are more concerned to be less reactive if they want to From the United States, she said appearance. A bear with a healed about the food than each other, eat.” every state has been represented side wound was called Stitches. said Dee Gala, who worked at the In addition to a strong showing of throughout the years, although West Another female black bear with a Wrangell Ranger District. bears, there are many visitors to the Coast residents seem to be more heart-shaped white patch over her “The food source is so rich that the observatory. prevalent. heart was known as Boboli. bears will tolerate one another,” Galla said they reach the cap of Visitors to the observatory can Local charter services provide trips she said. “It’s all about the salmon. 60 people per day nearly every day expect to see bears working the to Anan during the peak season.
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