Welcome to La Ville Lumière (the City of Light) acquired its enduring moniker due to its leading role in the Age of Enlight- enment, and it’s as apt as ever today, with enduring icons alongside ground- breaking innovations. The enchanting French capital is awash with land- PARIS marks that need no introduction – the , TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES and Notre Dame among them – along with a trove of specialist and galleries. Creamy-stone, grey-metal-roofed apart- ment buildings, lamp-lit bridges and geometrically laid-out formal parks are equally integral parts of the city’s fabric. Contrary to its magnificently preserved cityscapes, however, Paris has never stood still, but has constantly evolved throughout the eras, leading the way in industrial, artistic, scientific and architectural endeavours. This innovative spirit continues today, with pioneering green transport initiatives and dazzling new architectural pro- jects that include skyscraping towers along the periphery and re-energised urban spaces, such as the Île Seguin-Rives de development on a Seine island being transformed into a cultural hub of the city’s ambitious Grand Paris (Greater Paris) expansion. Creativity is evident everywhere, from neobistro kitchens, cutting-edge cocktail bars, fashion ateliers and vibrant street art to the 1920s former railway depot housing Station F, the world’s largest start-up hub.

contrary to its magnificently preserved cityscapes, Paris IMAGE THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY has never stood still 17/5/ SHUTT Catherine Le Nevez Image Stock Eiff el T Eiffel Tower (p36) overlooking Parc du GIVAGA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Releas By: giv GIVAGA

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Les Invalides  A A this fabled cafe- and  Need to Know ...... 18 Dining Out ...... 117 Bast boutique-fi lled Left  Top Days in Paris ...... 20 The ape. The Best...... 120 Bank neighbourhood. Latin with Hotspots For… ...... 28 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 122 (Map p246) St-G What’s New ...... 30 Champs-Élysées & Mon For Free ...... 31 Grands Boulevards ...... 123 Family Travel ...... 32 Gare St- & Les Halles ...... 125 2# Arc de Lazare Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 127 Sho Triomphe Le Marais, Palais Louvre & Les Halles Ménilmontant & Le Marais, Ménilmontant The A Champs- Top Experiences ...... 35 Garnier Market streets fan out Belleville & Belleville ...... 130 Eiffe

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& Belleville Élysées A around the Louvre & mighty Eiffel Tower ...... 36 & Eastern Paris ...... 132 Cha Les Halles Hip boutiques, bars A Ménilmontant Louvre and the and restaurants Arc de Triomphe ...... 42 The Islands ...... 134 Gran for Champs-Élysées A cutting-edge Centre squeeze alongside a Latin Quarter ...... 136 Louv count & Grands Boulevards Notre Dame ...... 46 Paris’ grandest Jardin des Pompidou. celebrity-filled ceme- The Louvre ...... 52 St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 138 Mon  (Map p250) A avenue, art nouveau Tu il e r ies tery. (Map p254) Sacré-Coeur ...... 58 & Southern Paris ...... 141 Le M   department stores Seine  A!  & Be Champs- Musée d’Orsay ...... 62  Centre  Boulevards  Cimetière du Élysées & G A and a 19th-century  A  Musée Rodin ...... 66 Bast  Louvre Pompidou Treasure Hunt ...... 143 opera house.  A Musée Père Lachaise ...... 68 Latin Eiffel  A A  The Best...... 146 (Map p246) Hôtel des Musée A National  Cruising the Seine...... 72 St-G ATower Sainte-  Champs-Élysées & Picasso  A Invalides d'Orsay The Islands ...... 74 Grands Boulevards ...... 148 A Chapelle Notre Dame domi- A A Cimetière du Père Lachaise ...... 78 Louvre & Les Halles ...... 149 Act nates the larger Île Musée Street Markets ...... 82 The Musée de la Cité, whileThe little Islands Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 151 Rodin A A Day Trip: Château de Versailles ...... 84 e A National du Île St-Louis is graced Le Marais, Ménilmontant Spec Notre Musée National du Moyen Âge ...... 88 d for Moyen Âge A with elegant build- & Belleville ...... 151 Swim Dame Jardin des Tuileries ...... 90 Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 153 Inlin boule- Eiffel Tower & ings. (Map p250) ual Jardin du Sainte-Chapelle ...... 92 The Islands ...... 154 Park Western Paris Jardin des Les Catacombes ...... 94 Luxembourg A! Latin Quarter ...... 155 Fore Stately boulevards Eiffel Tower A Plantes A Cooking & Wine-Tasting Courses ..... 96 fl ank the city’s signa- A 2#Gare de St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 156 Guid or & W Paris Gare Lyon Day Trip: Maison et Jardins ture spire and major Montparnasse 2# s 2# A de Claude Monet ...... 98 museums.  Gare Bar Open ...... 163 Res (Map p246)  d'Austerlitz ...... 100  Walking Tour: Seine-Side The Best...... 166 Acco  Nee Les Romantic Meander ...... 102 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 168  Bastille & Whe Catacombes Hôtel des Invalides ...... 104 Champs-Élysées & Eastern Paris A Bastille & ...... 106 Grands Boulevards ...... 168 The Parisians’ Paris, Louvre & Les Halles ...... 170 Montparnasse & with fabulousE markets, Paris Walking Tour: Paris’ Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 173 Southern Paris intimate gourmet Covered Passages ...... 110 Latin Quarter Le Marais, Ménilmontant Brasseries from the Home to beautifulLatin bistros and lively Discovering Paris’ Street Art ...... 112 e seen Quarter & Belleville ...... 176 mid-20th-centuryMontparnasse and botanic gardens and drinking and dancing Musée National Picasso ...... 114 re-energised back-& S Paris packed with vibrant venues. (Map p254)

streets buzzing with  student haunts. local life. (Map p246)  (Map p252)  

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Lati * SHU Imag Stoc PAR 117 Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 179 Urba The Islands ...... 180 In Focus famo 120 Latin Quarter ...... 180 popu .122 Paris Today ...... 212 Latin St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 181 History ...... 214 Rele Montparnasse & Southern Paris ...... 183 .123 Architecture ...... 219 Edito .125 Arts ...... 223 adve .127 Showtime ...... 185 proh The Best...... 187 By: E 130 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 188 Bast .132 Champs-Élysées & Survival Guide East 134 Grands Boulevards ...... 188 Directory A–Z ...... 230 SHU 136 Louvre & Les Halles ...... 188 Transport ...... 233 Imag 138 Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 189 Language ...... 238 Stoc .141 Le Marais, Ménilmontant Index ...... 240 PAR & Belleville ...... 191 Paris Maps ...... 245 open 143 Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 192 Symbols & Map Key ...... 257 one Latin Quarter ...... 193 146 sellin St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 193 othe Rele .148 Edito .149 Active Paris ...... 195 aadv . 151 The Best...... 197 proh Spectator Sports ...... 198 By: l . 151 Swimming Pools ...... 198 The .153 Inline Skating ...... 198 SHU 154 Parks ...... 199 Imag .155 Forests ...... 200 Stoc 156 Guided Tours ...... 201 Paris Dam 163 Rest Your Head ...... 203 The mos Accommodation Types ...... 206 166 worl 168 Need to Know ...... 207 Rele Where to Stay ...... 209 Edito 168 adve .170 proh .173 By: C

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KRYSSIA CAMPOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; Imag MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©; SAILORR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LEMBI/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©; CHRISTIAN MUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LEMBI/ Stoc SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ELENA DIJOUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; PETR KOVALENKOV/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©; THITIPHAN PAKSEESUWAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; AUGUSTIN PAR LAZAROIU/SHUTTERSTOCK © Peop Rosi of M Rele 000-title-opener-bo-par2.indd0-title-opener-bo-par2.indd 3 119/05/20179/05/2017 2:11:222:11:22 PMPM Edito adve proh Bl 4 Plan Your Trip This Year in Paris 2018 OWEN FRANKEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Paris Art fairs, music festivals, open-air cinema and epicurean events are just some of the highlights of Paris’ calendar in 2018, with many more in the works: check www. parisinfo.com for updates.

From left: National flag waving under the Arc de Triomphe on (p12); Paris Plages (p12); Cocktails

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2018 PAWEL LIBERA IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

o Top Festivals & Events Paris Plages – Jul (p12) Bastille Day – Jul (p12) Paris Cocktail Week – Jan (p6) Taste of Paris – May (p10) Nuit Blanche – Oct (p15) WESTEND61 PREMIUM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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2018 GUILLAUME LOUYOT ONICKZ ARTWORKS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

04 April Sinatra sang about April in Paris, and the month sees the city’s ‘charm of spring’ in full swing, with chestnuts blossoming and cafe terraces coming into their own. Easter Sunday is 1 April 2018.

2 Foire 2 Marathon du Trône Early Apr–Early Jun International de Paris Early Apr Going strong since 957 AD, huge funfair Paris’ international marathon, the Foire du Trône features some 350 attrac- Marathon International de Paris (pictured tions over 10 hectares on the Pelouse above) starts on the av des Champs- de Reuilly of the Bois de from Élysées, 8e, and finishes on av Foch, 16e, around Easter to early June. attracting more than 57,000 runners from some 145 countries. 2 Salon du Running Early Apr In the run-up to the Marathon International 1 Foire de Paris, the three-day Salon du Running de Paris Late Apr–Early May (‘Running Show’; www.salondurunning.fr) Gadgets, widgets, food and wine feature at draws more than 80,000 visitors (including this huge contemporary-living fair (www. competitors picking up their bibs) and 200- foiredeparis.fr), held at the Parc des Exposi- plus professional exhibitors at the Parc des tions at Porte de Versailles, 15e. Expositions at Porte de Versailles, 15e.

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2018 DAVID WOLFF - PATRICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

August 08 Parisians desert the city in droves z Fête during the summer swelter when, des Tuileries Jun–Aug despite an infl ux of tourists, many restaurants and shops shut. It’s a Carousels ( merry-go-rounds) of all prime time to cycle, with far less vintages are the centrepiece of this traffi c on the roads. funfair in the Jardin des Tuileries French formal gardens, along with 3 Classique bumper cars, giant slides and a au Vert Early Aug–Mid-Sep scenic (if vertigo-inducing) Ferris wheel. Entry’s free; rides are charged In Paris’ eastern forest, the Bois de individually. Vincennes, the (www. classiqueauvert.paris.fr) hosts classical

music concerts amid the greenery. PICTUREREFLEX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Rock en Seine Late Aug Headlining acts rock the Parc de St-Cloud, on the city’s southwestern edge, at this wildly popular three-day, late-August music festival (www.rockenseine.com; Donita Sparks of L7 pictured above). A campsite sets up in the gardens.

3 Silhouette Late Aug–Early Sep Out-of-the-box short films by boundary- pushing independent film-makers screen side open-air concerts and workshops, in competition during this film festival attracting audiences of more than 20,000 (www.association-silhouette.com) along- people.

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Daily Costs Advance Planning Currency Budget Two months before Book ac- Euro (€) Less than €100 commodation; organise opera, Language  Dorm bed: €25–50 ballet or cabaret tickets; check French events calendars to find out  Coffee/glass of wine/ what festivals will be on; and Visas 33cL craft beer: from make reservations for high- There are generally €2.50/4/4.50 end/popular restaurants. no restrictions for EU citizens. Usually not  Inexpensive self- catering Two weeks before Sign up required for most other options include street for a local-led tour and start nationalities for stays markets narrowing down your choice of museums, pre-purchasing of up to 90 days.  Book of 10 metro tickets: tickets online where possible. Money €14.50 Two days before Pack your ATMs are widely avail-  Same-day, half- price comfiest shoes! able. Visa and Master- theatre tickets: from €15 Card accepted in most  Frequent free concerts Useful Websites hotels, shops and res- taurants; fewer accept and events  Lonely Planet (www. American Express. lonelyplanet.com/paris) Midrange Destination information, Mobile Phones €100–250 bookings , traveller forum Check with your pro-  Double room in a mid- and more. vider before you leave range hotel: €130–250  Paris Info (www.paris home about roaming  Two-course meal: info.com) Comprehensive costs and/or ensuring €20–40 tourist-authority website. your phone is unlocked to use a French SIM  admission: free  Paris by Mouth (www. card (available cheaply to around €15 parisbymouth.com) in Paris). Restaurants searchable by  Admission to clubs: free arrondissement. Time to around €20 Central European Time  Sortiraparis (www.sor (GMT/UTC plus one Top End tiraparis.com) Up-to-date hour). More than €250 calendar listing what’s on  Historic luxury hotel around town. Tourist Information Paris Convention & double room: from €250  HiP Paris (www.hipparis. Visitors Bureau (p232)  com) Not only vacation Gastronomic restaurant sells tickets for tours rentals (‘Haven in Paris’), meal: from €40 and attractions, and but switched-on articles and  museum and transport Glass of Champagne/ reviews by expat locals, too. cocktail: from €6/10 passes.  My Little Paris (www.mylittleparis.com) For more, see the Little- known local treasures. Survival Guide (p229)

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