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Chinaitsmarvelmyooiidduoft 5O7 •t::xrT. ill 111 f^ "Jii»' Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY hi/ the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/chinaitsmarvelmyOOIidduoft 5o7 CHINA ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY HONG KONG: FROM KOWLOON Showing the well-known Peak, with the city at its base. CHINA ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY BY T. HODGSON LIDDELL, R.B.A. WITH 40 ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY THE AUTHOR LONDON: GEORGE ALLEN & SONS 44 & 45 RATHBONE PLACE, W. 1909 [All rights reserved] t.fci. •'- irv 1^ , T» -r^w * -•. \-'y^ 7 ^,6H^^ J U Printed by Hallantyne, Hanson ^ Co. At the Rallantync Press, Edinburgh CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK I UNDERTOOK this journcy to China solely to paint pictures of a country I had during all my life heard a great deal of, and, in my book, I try to convey my impressions as an artist. I had occasionally heard of and seen sketches made by residents in and visitors to China, but I am not aware that a concerted attempt has ever before been made to produce and show to those at home a series of pictures which might illustrate, at any rate, some parts of China known, or of interest, to Europeans. If to a certain extent I restricted myself to illustrat- ing these better-known parts, it was because I felt that the less-known places, though equally picturesque, would not, as yet, appeal to the public ; and also I knew well beforehand that the difficulties I should have to face, to work even where I did, would be very great. And, in- deed, I found I had not underestimated these difficulties. The Chinese are, naturally, very artistic ; but, in most places where I worked, they have never before seen any one attempting to paint outside from nature. One has only to think of how the crowd would gather if a China- man, in national costume, were to set up an easel and CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK own streets, to realise a begin to paint in one of our with. I had great crowds little of what I had to put up to humour, and in of curious natives to manage and the officials to allow me other cases I had to persuade it seemed to me, was that to sketch. Their whole idea, maps and plans a foreigner sketching meant making for some ulterior purpose. the long, patient, The difficulty I experienced, and I could persuade persistent efforts I had to make, before those most highly educated and placed officials immedi- petition the ately in touch with the Throne even to Empress Dowager to grant me that permission which Palace- I ultimately obtained—to work at the Summer was only one, though the most determined, effort to keep me outside. But once I had obtained that, and become known (and, I flatter myself, rather liked), and conse- quently favoured by those officials, my difficulties were smoothed over as far as possible. Then I had to contend with the climate, a very serious matter; to work in extreme heat and extreme cold; at times in very moist heat, and again in great dryness; the mere keeping of my paper and materials in fit condition was quite a serious matter. Of the places I visited and illustrated the chief were, in the order of my journey : Hong Kong, Canton, Macao, and the neighbourhood of these places, in the south. Shanghai was another centre, and from there I visited CHINA: THE ARTISTS TASK and worked in the Soochow and Tahu or Great Lake district, and at Bing-oo, Kashing, and Hangchow, with its famous West Lake. In the north I visited Pei-tai-ho, Shan-hai-kwan, Tientsin, and finally Peking, with its world-famous palaces and temples. China is such a vast country, and holds such wealth of beauty and interest, that an artist might spend years and then only have taken the cream from each place. My visit was only for one year, and therefore I had to cut my coat according to my cloth, and leave for a possible future visit many notable scenes which might well be depicted and shown to the world. I venture to think that if Europeans could but see more pictures, realistically painted, of the natural and created beauties of that great Empire, they would form a better opinion, not only of the country, but of the civilisation and very high artistic sense of the people. I trust that, in issuing my work to the Public, it will be understood that to all intents I have acted the difficult part of a Pioneer in this direction, and have at any rate overcome some of the scruples of the Chinese, as well as returned home with a very high opinion of, and a great liking for, them. My visit to Japan was but a short one, a holiday after a long spell of hard work in very great heat; but I could not help comparing the two countries artisti- cally, very much (from my point of view) in favour of Vll CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK China, which, with increased facilities for travelling, will become a great holiday ground for, at any rate, the wealthier traveller. I owe a debt of gratitude to friends at home and in China, who by their help and advice enabled me to undertake this journey, and I take this opportunity of expressing my grateful thanks. Also to my hosts at Hong Kong, Canton, Shanghai, and Tientsin, for their great kindness and hospitality ; to our Minister and the Staff of the British Legation at Peking, and my many friends in China, for all their kindness ; and last, but not least, to express my thanks to those Chinese gentlemen who were themselves so helpful to me, and so apprecia- tive of the efforts I made to depict some of the beautiful scenes in their country. In the production of this book I owe much to my wife, whose aid has been invaluable. T. H. L. VIII CONTENTS PAGE I. HONG KONG I II. NEW AND OLD KOWLOON . 7 III. MACAO . 12 IV. CANTON—THE PEARL RIVER 17 V. CANTON FROM THE WALLS . 23 VI. SHANGHAI 29 VII. SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 37 VIII. SHANGHAI {continued) . 46 IX. SOOCHOW AND TAHU . 51 X. HANGCHOW 59 XL HANGCHOW SETTLEMENT . 64 XII. HANGCHOW CITY . 68 XIII. GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW . 75 XIV. JAPAN 83 XV. PEI-TAI-HO 92 XVI. SHAN-HAI-KWAN 105 XVII. TIENTSIN "3 XVIII. PEKING 119 XIX. VISIT TO THE WINTER PALACE 131 XX. PEKING- TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 137 IX CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE XXI. THE LAMA TEMPLE XXn. CONFUCIAN TEMPLE AND HALL OF THE CLASSICS XXIII. THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS XXIV. A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE 167 XXV. I OBTAIN AN EDICT XXVI. THE SUMMER PALACE . 179 XXVII. RETURN TO PEKING 194 GLOSSARY .... 199 INDEX OF NAMES . 201 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PEKING: THE PORCELAIN PAGODA, NEAR THE SUMMER PALACE Cover HONG KONG: FROM KOWLOON Frontispiece Showing the well-known Peak, with the city at its base. HONG KONG: CHOW-TIME Facing p. i Lighting the fires for the evening meal. HONG KONG: THE FLOWER MARKET . „ lo A STREET IN MACAO „ 14 NEAR CANTON : FISHING-BOATS ON THE PEARL RIVER „ 17 CANTON RIVER ,, 20 The inhabitants of these boats are born, live, and die in them. CANTON » 23 A General View—also of the Flowery Pagoda—from the Walls near the Five-Storied Pagoda. SHANGHAI: THE NEW MALOO, NATIVE CITY . „ 37 SHANGHAI: THE PIECE-GOODS TEMPLE, CITY WALL. „ 40 SHANGHAI: NATIVE CITY „ 44 This old Tea-House is said to be the origin of the Willow Pattern Plate. LOONGWHA TEMPLES, NEAR SHANGHAI . „ 46 KWANGFOONG, TAHU » 5' The Great Lake north of Soochow. NEAR MUTU, ABOVE SOOCHOW „ 54 xi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Facing 57 . • • • A AT WONG-DONG: CORMORANT FISHING THE BRIDGE AT KWANGFOONG S8 As seen from a Mandarin's grave. GATE AND CITY THE TEMPLE AT BING-00 : WATER 60 WALL . • • 62 BING-00: A WIDOW'S MONUMENT HANGCHOW: A BRIDGE ON THE CAUSEWAY, WEST LAKE „ 65 LIBRARY 66 HANGCHOW: PAILAU AT THE IMPERIAL . WATER-BUFFALO AT W.ORK IN THE PADDY-FIELDS . 73 HANGCHOW: THE NORTH GATE 77 82 . • » HANGCHOW: LOTUS ISLAND, WEST LAKE . Showing one of several Pavilions in this pleasure-resort. THE ROCK TEMPLE, PEI-TAI-HO 102 109 THE GREAT WALL ABOVE SHAN-HAI-KWAN . „ SHAN-HAI-KWAN: THE MAIN STREET .... III SHAN-HAI-RWAN: AN HOTEL SIGN 112 AT TIENTSIN 114 PEKING: THE EMPEROR'S ROBING TEMPLE, THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 141 PEKING: THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, THE SACRIFICIAL ALTAR 142 The Emperor's way from his Robing Temple — behind the spectator— is through the central gateway and up the steps to the s.icrificial altar of the Temple (" The centre of the universe "). PAILAU IN THE LANL\ TEMPLE, PEKING . „ 146 PEKING: THE LAMA TEMPLE 148 Open-air worship by Lamas at certain periods of the moon. The ytllow roof and red walls betoken Imperial patronage, xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PEKING: PORCELAIN PAILAU AT THE HALL OF THE CLASSICS Facing p. 153 Erected by Chien Lung, the builder of the Summer Palace. THE YELLOW TEMPLE, NEAR PEKING .... „ iS4 NANKOW PASS: GATE OF THE GREAT WALL . „ 166 PEKING: SEEN FROM THE DRUM TOWER . „ 173 City Coal Hill on the left ; beneath, the Gate of the Forbidden ; to the right, the Dagoba, which is within the precincts of the Winter Palace. PEKING: THE BELL TOWER „ i74 PEKING: THE SUMMER PALACE. ..... ,,182 Showing the greater part.
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