Forging an Organic Path
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GRAPE PRESS Fall 2016 The Quarterly Newsletter of the VIRGINIA VINEYARDS ASSOCIATION Vol. 32 No. 3 President’s Corner Forging A Most An Unusual Organic Harvest By Tom Kelly Path Kelly Vineyard Services arvest is upon us! At the time of this writing (last week of September), harvest Hof most white varieties in the vineyards I am involved in are behind us and looking back at the past few weeks, some interesting trends are occurring. In past years, certain “later-ripening” white varieties such as Viognier and Petite Manseng would have been picked several weeks after earlier ripening varieties such as Jack Looney Chardonnay. Karl Hambsch has earned organic certifications for both the vineyard and winery at Loving Cup. This year however, I have observed exactly the opposite. In one particular vineyard, Viognier Loving Cup finds ways to grow without synthetics was harvested about ten days ahead of Chardonnay and, in Grape Press organic? What does that mean? fact, the pH of the Viognier was Karl Hambsch: Short answer: no synthetic veryone knows it’s impossible to make farm inputs, including fungicides, insecticides, See PRESIDENT on page 2 organic wine in Virginia – everyone, and fertilizers. that is, except Karl Hambsch, who now has the Commonwealth’s only vineyard GP: And herbicides. Eand winery that are both certified as organic. KH: Right. There are actually organic INSIDE Disheartened by the volume of fungicides, herbicides, but they don’t work that well and pesticides and herbicides that were used in East we don’t use them. For the first two years, we Regional Reports Coast winemaking, Karl planted the first vines cultivate under the vines and, and from then on, Taking stock of the impact of this for what would become Loving Cup Vineyard & we just mow, weedeat, and hand-weed. year’s frost and freeze. Winery in North Garden in 2008. The vineyard PAGE 4 was certified organic in 2012 and the winery GP: Hand-weed? Really? received its certification this spring. As a result, KH: 12 inches around every trunk. A couple French Finery An up-close look at the amazing all of Loving Cup’s wines, starting with the times a year. terroir of the Jura region. 2016 vintage, will be labeled “organic.” PAGE 8 Grape Press had a number of questions GP: So you don’t spray herbicide or any about Loving Cup, and Karl was kind enough pesticides? Building Consensus to answer. KH: No, I do have organic fungicides and Va. Wine Council works to keep up with legislative initiatives. Grape Press: So you’re actually certified- See ORGANIC on page 6 PAGE 12 virginiavineyardsassociation.com PRESIDENT’S CORNER (cont.) VVA BOARD PRESIDENT, from page 1 sustainable practices. 2016 We will again be hosting the New elevated enough to prompt the winemaker Growers Workshop presented by Tony and President to harvest Petite Manseng early – at his team at the Winchester AREC as well Tom Kelly about 26 brix, 3.06 pH and 10g/l TA – for as the popular Governor’s Cup Tasting and blending with the Viognier in an attempt [email protected] our usual assortment of fun events such to correct for the higher pH and lower brix as the Friday Night Wine Social and the of that fruit. Interestingly, the previously Grower of the Year Award Ceremony. Vice President mentioned numbers for Petite Manseng are The event will be held again at the Jim Benefiel typical for this variety, however, in this area beautiful Omni Hotel in Charlottesville on [email protected] we would not normally see Feb. 23-25, 2017, so mark them until early October as your calendars! opposed to mid-September. In August, a “special Treasurer propositions” ballot was Kay Thompson Reduced Sugar sent out and we had an [email protected] In short, this situation is excellent rate of return on indicative of what many folks those ballots. Members were Secretary around the state are seeing – asked to vote on three special Aimee Henkle reduced sugar accumulation propositions. and color development The intent of two of [email protected] relative to acid degradation. those propositions was to Dr. Tony Wolf, in his most establish staggered terms Advisor recent issue of Viticulture for the board officers in an Dr. Tony K. Wolf Notes explains some possible effort to mitigate the issue [email protected] reasons why we are seeing of the association losing this effect on our crops a high percentage of its this year but, in short, it is TOM KELLY legacy officers (and their Business Manager generally a result of the unusually institutional knowledge of Tracy Kirkman warm growing season we’ve had. association operations) in a single election [email protected] Vines tend to shut down sugar cycle. accumulation and color development as The other — striking the language in Grape Press Editors/Production photosynthesis slows at high ambient the bylaw that restricts winery owners temperatures. Acids, however, continue from serving as President of the VVA — Bob Garsson to degrade (partly due to unusually high broadens the talent pool from which we [email protected] nighttime temperatures) causing pH to can fill board seats. Chris Garsson continue to rise. All three propositions passed with large [email protected] Only time will tell how this vintage margins and so now it is time to put these will rate but despite the above-mentioned new ideas into practice. conditions, I am seeing very good fruit quality and yields from most of the Vote for Officers VVA Mailing Address vineyards I visit, at least with respect to the November will see a second round of P.O. Box 168 white wine varieties and the few red wine ballots sent to you, the members, asking Waterford, Va. 20197 varieties that have been harvested to date. you to nominate and vote for new board [email protected] While Chardonnay yields were affected officers. This round of voting will elect by the freeze event earlier this past spring, a new President, Treasurer and Secretary the losses don’t seem to be as dramatic as (the latter for a special one-year term). was initially expected. And, fortunately, I ask that you each take some time to Special thanks to: most growers are telling me that wildlife consider your friends and colleagues in the Paul Anctil, Karl Hambsch, pressure on our crops has been significantly industry and nominate those who you think Andrew Hodson, Paul Krop, Ben Rowe less than in previous years. would be of valuable service to the VVA. Good news all around! Along with the election ballots, there will also be a request for nominations for Planning for Winter Technical our 2017 Grower of the Year award. Planning for our 2017 Winter Technical If you know someone whose Meeting is well under way and, in fact, we participation in and service to our already have a fairly well-defined program industry and association deserves special – a pleasant position to be in so early on! I recognition, please nominate that person don’t want to give away any details at this for this prestigious award. point but suffice it to say Tony has been hard at work lining up an impressive array My Last Column of speakers for the event. Finally, it is with some sadness (and We’ll have many exciting topics to some relief) that I write this article as it present this year, spanning subjects as diverse as vineyard economics to See PRESIDENT on page 3 2 PRESIDENT’S CORNER (cont.) PRESIDENT, from page 2 will be my last President’s Corner for the Grower of the Year Nominations Due VVA. As this is my last term as President, you will be voting in, along with several he Virginia Vineyards Association is accepting nominations from members other officers, a new President for the for the Grower of the Year award, plus three board positions: president, Association. treasurer, and a one-year term for the Secretary’s position. It has been a great honor for me to serve T Nominations for the three board positions should be forwarded to Tracy the VVA as a member of its board and Kirkman at [email protected] by Oct. 15. as President, and I am gladdened by the Written ballots will go out in the mail by the end of October, to be returned by knowledge that I will be able to continue Nov. 30. to serve as Past President. Nominations for Grower of the Year should also be forwarded to Tracy. They Being on the VVA board has allowed me are due by the end of January. The award will be presented at the winter technical the opportunity to work with so many great meeting on Feb. 24, 2017. individuals, particularly the amazingly To be considered for Grower of the Year, a candidate must have managed or talented people who have held the other operated a vineyard in Virginia for at least seven years, contributed to the Virginia chairs on the board with me. viticulture industry, have a minimum of five acres of vineyard, and must be an But most important for me has been the active member of the VVA. Candidates must also be nominated by an active VVA opportunity to meet and interact with all of member. you. It is you, the members, who make the The special one-year term for the Secretary’s position is intended to facilitate VVA so great and it is you whom I have a new by-law provision that calls for staggered terms on the VVA’s Board of been privileged to serve. Directors. Under that provision, the President and Treasurer will be elected in Thanks to all of you for having made this different years from the Vice President and Secretary.