THE INVISIBLE GAIJIN 8 A DANGEROUS LIAISON 12 GOING HOME, AND 11 — WITH SUSHI COMING BACK

The Magazine of National AJET September-October 2003 Volume XV Issue 1 2 AJET Across

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O Omatase shimashita! and then (like when you get hit with an 8,000 yen enkai tab for the first M Please accept our apologies for keep- time). ing you waiting for this issue of AJET Across Japan. Things got off to a slow Second-year JETs, on the other T start here at the AAJ office (don’t let us hand, have reached the adolesence fool you — the “office” is merely a very of our lives here. Some of us will H messy kotatsu) but we are pleased to make it through unscathed, happy present you with the first AAJ from the and well-adjusted. But some of us E 2003-2004 AJET National Council. have developed a bit of an attitude with Mama Japan. She infuriates us, In the year’s remaining five issues, we embarasses us, drives us crazy plan to make even further improvements (Mom, would you STOP with the red E in AAJ’s content and appearance. If, tape already! Geez!). Sometimes we after reading this issue, you have just want to sit in our tatami rooms D suggestions or want to make a contribu- with the headphones on. tion, we welcome your input! I But underneath the blasé, seen-that- But what’s with all this “we” stuff? AAJ is a-hundred-times exterior, we’re still T essentially a one-man operation (al- attached with the invisible umbilical though I have spent a lot of time with my cord that makes us wonder at her O buddy the Dell Inspiron 2600 lately). So mysteries, and occasionally even I guess I should officially introduce appreciate her company. Soon we’ll R myself: Ashley Atkinson, 23, second- get a bit older and wiser, and we can year ALT, likes high-speed Internet start to hang out like the good connections and long walks to the train friends we ought to be. station. I’m looking forward to presenting you with the interesting and insightful Mama Japan takes a lot of criticism work of your fellow JETs over the next from us, and indeed sometimes she year. deserves it — she’s not always the nurturing caretaker she could be By now, first-year readers have prob- (anyone tried the driving test?). But ably gotten accustomed to she brought us here, she’s given us life in Japan, or at least some tough love and in the progressed beyond the end almost all of us will be point where you feel like better off for it. Thanks, you’ve been reborn as an Mom. infant that needs care, changing and feeding every two hours. Perhaps you’re in the toddler stage — walking a little unsteadily, Ashley E. Atkinson but able to use the potty by yourself if you’re careful 2003-2004 AAJ Editor (especially in those squat toilets); able to satisfy your Ogaki-shi, Gifu-ken own needs to an extent but still prone to tantrums now September/October 2003 3

AJET Contents Across Japan REGULARS From the Editor 2

Editor Ashley Atkinson From the Chair 4 [email protected] Kiosk 5 Advertising Editor Yves Laforge News from AJET to you [email protected] Block Watch 6 Contributors Points of interest from AJET’s 11 blocks Amanda Cornaglia, Peter Dawson, Jessica Drexel, Doron Klemer, Emily Plum, Matthew Cartoon: Do You Like Natto? 7 Peddie, Derrick Simpson-Anderson Online 13 AJET Across Japan is the magazine of the National Association for Japan Exchange and Teaching (NAJET). It is published bimonthly for Books 16 the benefit of NAJET members. Gaijin samurai and hitchhiking to Hokkaido

Unsolicited submissions, letters to the editor, questions and comments are welcome and encouraged. For submission guidelines, see FEATURES aaj.ajet.net. Gaijin 8 All advertising correspondence should be sent to [email protected]. Two perspectives on being foreign in Japan

Lawson Language 10

Reflections Upon Returning 11

Sushi Love 12

Memento 14

News & Updates 19

Parting Shot 20

ON THE COVER

A reveler greets the rising sun at the Metamor- If you would like to contribute to AAJ, phose music festival, held in August on the please see our guidelines at aaj.ajet.net. slopes of Mt. Fuji. 4 AJET Across Japan

until I realized that my area of Hyogo-ken would be welcoming an overwhelming amount of new JETs from the chair this year. Almost everyone I had spent the first two years of my JET career with is now gone and re- placed by fresh new faces filled with an amazing Forward thinking for fall energy. Helping them get used to life here restored my sense of adventure and has put me on the right track for my third and final year. It also emphasized that sitting back and letting the year pass by is no Fall is here, and it’s time to roll up my sleeves and longer an option. get a lot of work done for AJET. After a summer of preparing for and helping the new JETs, our focus Our first trip together as a new JET community was has moved from orientations to the task of improv- just a small example of my renewed attitude for the ing AJET and the JET Programme. As you read this, year ahead. Once the welcome parties settled down, the National Council is busy researching and writ- we headed to Mt. Daisen, the mini-Fuji in Tottori ing reports for our upcoming meeting with CLAIR prefecture, to take a leisurely hike together. We and MEXT, which will be held in Tokyo on November soon found out that the mountain shouldn’t be de- 10-11. We’ve also been conjuring up a few chal- scribed as mini-anything, and that our day was not lenges and projects for this year. As AJET chair, going to involve the word leisurely or any of its syn- challenge is a word I love to hear, and it’s rare to find onyms. We headed for the summit and after hours one that can’t be tackled with a little perseverance of slipping, groaning, trying to balance on shaky and dedication. This year’s National AJET team legs and taking unexpected detours we made it up shares this vision, and we expect to accomplish a and down in one piece. Sure, it took a lot of effort lot over the coming months. and a bit of pain, but looking back now I only seem to remember the gorgeous One of our newest ideas is a na- views, the lively conversations, the tionwide AJET Games Festival. constant laughter, the silly games and With cooperation between national of course the feeling of accomplish- and local AJET chapters, we’re ment. I consider that day the first of planning a series of great spring many personal challenges I expect to sporting events. We are also cre- conquer in the year ahead. ating an AJET Exchange Program to help JETs interested in starting So what does any of that have to do an exchange with a foreign school with you? For you first-years, take or program. Pen pal letters and vis- every challenge you can get. Living in its are an excellent way to moti- Japan is not always easy, but is living vate your students — we figured anywhere else a piece of cake? Your we’d step in and help make that first year will pass quickly and there’s possible for as many JETs who’d a lot for you to do in the next ten like to try it. Both of these services are in the early months. Older JETs feeling comfortable might want stages, but should be completely operational in a let yourselves be inspired by our new counterparts few months. This is, of course, in addition to our and continue to challenge yourselves. What’s the traditional services like Tatami Timeshare (coming sense of living in an exciting place like Japan and soon to a mailbox near you!). I like to keep all 21 settling for a run-of-the-mill daily routine? council members on their toes — it wouldn’t be much of a challenge otherwise. Stay tuned to the AJET Give AJET a challenge, too. If there is something mailing lists for updates on our latest projects. you feel AJET should be researching, organizing, promoting or doing, drop us a line. We’ll do every- As a third-year ALT, I’ve decided to extend this thing we can to accommodate your request or help mindset to my personal endeavors as well. After you with a concern or problem. I don’t expect your two years in Japan and far too many years of study- challenges to be easy, but then, neither was that ing the language and culture, I found myself in a bit day on Mt. Daisen. The AJET National Council is of a comfort zone. The new and exciting element of ready and waiting to be tested. Until then, enjoy Japan had worn off; I could have easily let myself the fall weather and abundance of three-day week- slip into a very routine daily existence. That was ends.

BY AMANDA CORNAGLIA, AJET NATIONAL COUNCIL CHAIR September/October 2003 5

K Reports to CLAIR and MEXT The National Council is in the final stages of preparing the reports we will submit to CLAIR and MEXT at our meeting November 10-11. The report topics and authors are as follows: -JET Perceptions of Organizations in the JET Programme (Dave Cowland-Cooper, Block 8 Represen- tative): What JETs think of AJET, CLAIR and MEXT and their visions for the programme’s future I -The CLAIR Language Course (Vivian Beebe, CIR/SEA Representative): The course from the CIR point of view, the issue of ALTs being barred from the upper-level courses, and the efficacy of the course in general -Nenkyu (Jaysie Dambach, Block 3 Representative): The issue of JETs being forced to take nenkyu against their will, specifically after traveling during the SARS epidemic O -Accent Discrimination (Emily Plum, Block 11 Repre- sentative): The issue of JETs being asked by schools to modify their native accents in the classroom -Current Projects of the AJET National Council (Amanda Cornaglia, AJET Chair)

Surveys on these topics were sent via prefectural e-mail lists in late S September. Although polling is closed, if you have any last-minute feedback please contact the report’s author (see www.ajet.net). We will also be following up on last May’s reports and discussing several other issues amongst ourselves, including study leave for JETs, a potential JET TEFL course, and the issue of full information disclo- sure during the recontracting process. If there are any other topics you would like us to address, please let us know! And look for the K results of the meeting to be posted on www.ajet.net in late November.

New Members & Tatami Timeshare

We recently finished entering all the new-mem- Orientations ber information gleaned at Tokyo into our da- tabase. We are now putting the finishing Summer is always a busy period for the National touches on Tatami Timeshare, which should AJET council and this year was no exception. After be in your hands shortly. Get ready to travel! the renewer’s conferences in late May and early June, We have also dispersed funds to the prefec- the council was busy preparing for the arrival of new tural chapters and the nationality and special JETs from overseas. This included preparation of our interest groups, so they should be using those new Tokyo Pocket Guide, which was a great suc- monies to plan some great activities for you. cess this year (if you’d like a copy let us know!). We We are very excited to say that a high per- also prepared workshops, information fairs and much centage of new JETs joined NAJET and signed more. The council hopes that though our efforts ques- up for many of the affiliated groups. Our mem- tions were answered, useful information was pro- bership now stands at almost 4,000 — nearly vided and that everyone left Tokyo feeling a strong two-thirds of JET Programme participants. support network was there if needed. New JETs, don’t That’s a lot of bargaining power! forget that if you ever have questions or problems, please contact your block representative at [email protected] (replacing “??” with your block AJET NEWS number). We want to hear from you! 6 AJET Across Japan block watch BY EMILY PLUM Block 11 Representative Bonchi Festival

We all know that what new JETs want to do on their first weekend in Japan is dress up in yukata and happi and dance around free and happy in the streets after having dipped their toes in one of the most fabulous waterfalls anywhere. This year Miyazaki AJET teamed up with the Miyakonojo Area Community Involvement International Association to make sure our new JETs Through Martial Arts could do just that! After the A great way to get involved with your local com- first ever JET munity is to join a martial arts dojo. These orga- City Tour, we nizations offer JETs a chance to not only learn stopped at interesting and useful skills, but also to get to Sekino Falls, know local people on a personal level. My hus- one of Japan’s band and I have been practicing karate under top 100. We the instruction of Shihan (Master) Hirakawa for had lunch almost two years now. I can definitely say that while sitting on becoming a member of the Miyakonojo Shorei- the biggest kan Goju-ryu Karate Dojo has been one of the Miyazaki JETs take in the beauty of one of potholes in the best experiences I have had in Japan. Japan’s top 100 waterfalls on an AJET- world! After sponsored excursion. All photos by E. Plum. that thrilling Hirakawa-sensei’s style of karate emphasizes experience, we continued to the Bonchi Festival karate as a lifestyle which includes non-violence, and learned to dance, traditional-style, in the street. compassion and friendship with others. Because of the strong belief in our dojo that karate can serve not simply as a sport, but as a means of enhancing personal growth and spirituality, our Block 11 AJET News fellow dojo members have become like a new family to us here in Japan – Hirakawa-sensei “Let’s get together and it’ll be alright” and his wife, Michiko-san, like our mother and – Bob Marley father, and the dojo itself like our home. In addi- tion to teaching us karate, Sensei and Michiko- This was the theme of the Block 11 AJET meet- san often take us and other members of the dojo ing held this summer, where representatives from to numerous onsen, parks, festivals and to res- AJET Kagoshima, Kumamoto, and Miyazaki got taurants that we would never otherwise have the together to make a plan to support each other’s opportunity to go to, such as an all-natural wood- AJET chapters. Prefectural Representatives fire soba place in the mountains. As Hirakawa- Ellen, Sam, Jason and their chapter members sensei is also a Buddhist monk and healer, dur- are working hard to organize interesting events ing these times the conversation may center this year, so please come on down and enjoy around anything from the philosophy of cosmic the South with us! energy and Buhddist thought to technical as- pects of the eight basic Goju-ryu karate kata. Most of my good friends in Japan I have made Kagoshima AJET has recently undergone some through my connection with the dojo, not only radical restructuring, and the chapter is in the during practice, enkai, and outings, but also process of making a Web site to provide teach- through special trips ...continued next page ing guides ... continued next page September/October 2003 7

Block 11 news, continued Martial arts, continued ...such as when Hirakawa-Sensei and Michiko- ... personal support and an in-depth guide to living san took a group from our dojo to Okinawa so in Kagoshima. The chapter also introduced a that we could learn first-hand about the birthplace mentor program to coincide with the arrival of new of karate. We toured historical places, visited lo- JETs and help them with any difficulties they cal friends of the Hirakawa family, went snorkel- encountered. Kagoshima AJET is utilizing the ing and swimming, and even woke up early to prefecture’s beauty with events and tours planned practice zazen meditation and karate on the throughout the year, starting with an island trip to Okinawa beach. Tanegashima planned for the fall. For more information contact PR Ellen Wan at Our dojo is unique in our area because the mem- [email protected]. bers are from so many different places in the world. The group included people from Australia, Canada, China, England, Japan, Sri Lanka, the U.S. and Kumamoto Prefecture Wales. The things we all share are a love of peace and harmony and a commitment to physical and Kumamoto has a new leadership team this year mental self-improvement through karate. This con- and is looking to offer exciting and interesting nection bonds us and allows us to become close events to all its members. One of the most friends, even if we do not fully understand each famous is the Hash Run – a race through the others’ languages or cultures. forest for drinkers with a running problem. For more information, please contact PR Jason To find out more about how to join a martial arts Wians at [email protected] dojo, contact your local international center.

Miyazaki Prefecture

Miyazaki has a long history of being one of the most active AJET chapters in Japan. This year will be no exception with upcoming events including Cheesy Discos for charity, festival dancing and a city-wide scavenger hunt, plus SCUBA diving, hiking, rock climbing, soccer, and volleyball events. Please contact PR Sam Ruano at [email protected].

Do You Like Natto? By Jennifer Zyren 8 AJET Across Japan

Two perspectives on being foreign in Japan

rookie card in mint condition. And after a fortnight of The Invisible Gaijin anonymity in Oita, I finally had the chance to take BY DORON KLEMER center stage with my fellow high school JETS at a summer seminar. My “cheezu” smile was practiced to I had been warned about it even before I applied to perfection, and my autographing wrist was surprisingly JET. My best friend, Chris, was constantly being strong. Bring ‘em on. stopped on the street in Okinawa and hassled for autographs, photos and a few words of Ingrish. Even Nothing. Maybe it’s because I’m not black. Or Hawai- the Oita Board of Education promised in its welcome ian. Or blonde. Or don’t have breasts larger than mos- letter that in the smaller, more-paddy-fields-than- quito bites. Or look like Harry-sodding-Potter. What- people areas of Oita we would be treated “like film ever the reason, a fantastic weekend was only mar- stars” and chased around as if we were The Lord ginally spoiled by a total absence of photographic re- God David Beckham Himself. quests from the kids, even those in my own group, who went chasing after Dai or Joel or Rindsay at the Upon hearing that I was being posted to Sakanoichi, first opportunity. one of only seven towns in the entire country without a single karaoke bar, I could already picture it: the To prove my point to the disbelieving JETs, all buried throngs of people scrabbling to get a look at the under piles of autograph-hunters, I did a lap of the hall Comedy Gaijin, or, as Chris warned happened far on the last evening, forcing my way through hordes of more often, simply having their brains give up on them disposable-camera paparazzi and returned, unscathed in the face of such uncomputable information and and unphotographed. Nada. standing there, open-mouthed, until ten minutes or so after I had left. It might get frustrating after a while, Then, it finally happened. One of the students made I imagined, but I thought I could handle loads of straight for me, brandishing her Kodak and squealing, people finding me interesting and wanting to talk to “Dolon, Dolon, photo, photo.” me. “It’s about bloody time,” I thought. Finally, I thought, I stand out, I’m a freak, I’m wanted! Nothing. Maybe it’s because there’s already a JET in Sakanoichi, and there have been two there for “Take photo me of me and Adamu!” years, that another pale-faced, big-eyed foreigner holds no interest for them. Maybe it’s because I’m I’m kidding myself. I resisted the urge to force-feed the not six feet tall and blonde, like Chris is (although film to her, took the photo and retired to my bunk to “blonde” is giving him the benefit of the doubt; he ponder my mundanity. Just because I’m short and have was looking far more ginger last time I saw him, but dark hair, surely they don’t mistake me for one of them? the effect on the Japanese nervous system is equally This was the only conclusion I could come to, and it disastrous). Whatever the reason, I arrived in my new has since been confirmed by the fact that not only has hometown with a whimper, not a camera crew or nothing changed since then, but I must be the only autograph book in sight. Arse. person (despite years of practice at the all-you-can- eat 9.99 Sunday afternoon Chinese buffet ), who has Never mind, I thought, the kids will be impressed never been told, “You can use chopsticks!” and help boost my self-confidence, bless their little cotton socks. They’ll surely treasure a snapshot with I am the invisible gaijin. All you who resent your any gaijin as if it were a 1987 Topps John Elway fame, read my tale, and weep. September/October 2003 9

It is as if you have all become members of a secret The Gaijin Stare society, and although you may never even speak, you BY PETER DAWSON can instantly recognize each other on the street. For people living in Japan who have had these conver- Have you ever had that experience when you are walk- sations a thousand times, unlike those passing through ing down a street in Japan and suddenly your eyes on a tourist itinerary, they are to be avoided at all costs. meet those of a passing stranger? And for a few sec- Long-time residents of Tokyo often try to discourage onds on a crowded city sidewalk, amidst the crush of these kinds of boring encounters by listening to a passing humanity, there is a moment of silent under- Walkman while striding purposively through the standing? crowded streets and avoiding any eye contact with other gaijin that could possibly turn into a conversa- This is what I call the “Gaijin Stare.” We must have all tion. done it hundreds of times – those brief moments of silent recognition between complete strangers. The only But for people who have only recently arrived in Japan, thing that you have in these conversations could prove to be a lifeline as they common is that you make their ways amongst the crowds of are both gaijin. Japanese who all too of- ten treat them It is an essential part as strange of the experience of aliens speaking being a foreigner in an incomprehen- Japan; I know of no sible language. other country where These chance foreigners encoun- conversations pro- ter something simi- vide the newcomer lar. It is an experi- with a rare opportu- ence that unites nity to speak En- people whether glish easily and flu- they are from ently. America or Africa or The “Gaijin Stare” is Afghanistan. It one of the most com- does not matter mon and everyday ex- if they are suit- amples of the way in wearing which Japan still has a businessmen long way to go to over- or English come its fundamental teachers, or if nervousness around for- they are handing eigners. A glance fol- out flyers for a nightclub in Shinjuku lowed by a second of eye or selling jewelry on the street. contact is often enough to convey the feeling of what it is to be a minority in Ja- In that passing moment there is a kind of unconscious pan – to be initially judged not on your character, but shared recognition of what it is to be a gaijin that tran- by the fact that you are from outside the country and scends all other considerations. The stare is pregnant will therefore always remain an outsider. To be ad- with the questions that gaijin usually ask each other dressed by complete strangers as a gaijin, as if all when they first meet: “What are you doing in Japan? foreigners and their cultures are reducible to this ster- How long have you been here? Do you like living here? ile label. Do you speak Japanese?” in a similar way to that in which they have been asked a thousand times by Japa- So next time your eyes meet those of a fellow gaijin nese people if they can eat natto or use chopsticks. on a crowded street, don’t keep walking. Take a few minutes to exchange a few words. But don’t ask the The stare is a unique feature of life for long-time resi- usual superficial questions. Instead, try to reflect on dents of Japan, even in a reasonably diverse city like the reasons why two complete strangers have taken Tokyo. While in other countries you are just a foreigner, time out of their days to stop and talk. Japan has a name that specifies you as non-Japa- nese. It seems only natural that part of the effect of You might just learn something about living in Japan. this is the shared recognition shown in the gaijin stare. 10 AJET Across Japan Lawson Language By Peter Dawson

“Good morning Lawson.” “Hello Lawson-san!” My students cheerfully call out to me in the school corridor. They are able to manage these sentences in English. Despite this, the Japanese Teachers of English don’t seem to approve.

My family name is Dawson. But my students have taken to calling me Lawson-san or just Lawson or sometimes even Mr. Lawson, after the chain of 24-hour convenience stores that are common throughout Japan.

The students already know how to pronounce Lawson and they find it endlessly amusing to call me Lawson instead of Dawson. I don’t mind, as long as they are speaking English. At the start of a class warm-up exercise I can always make the class laugh by letting them call me Lawson. Although I don’t pretend to understand the Japanese sense of humor, the students always find this hilarious.

The JTEs, however, do not approve – and their disapproval may be the source of the students’ amuse- ment. By calling me Lawson instead of Dawson-san, the students are being disrespectful by the JTEs’ standards. In my first weeks at my school I was largely unaware of this, especially since the JTE never told me directly. As I was unable to speak Japanese, the simple verbal play on the word “Lawson” was one of the few ways in which I was able to communicate with the students and make them laugh. To me, this was more important than any implied disrespect on the part of the students.

So in my initial eagerness to communicate with the students using ingrained Western values, which at the time I didn’t even give a second thought to, I used this simple word association to try and establish a relationship with the students. For all my attempts to be “culturally aware” I was entirely blind to the JTEs’ concerns over the disrespect implied when they called me “Lawson.”

It is entirely different to read in a language book that “-san” is used as a term of respect in Japan and to feel this intuitively as part of a living language. At first, I saw language as a means of trying to establish a genuine relationship with the students, while the JTE saw language as serving a social function in indicat- ing the respect that should be given to a teacher. Of course things are never quite as simple as this binary distinction suggests.

This was one of the first instances in which I realized how much the Japanese language is bound up with all kinds of subtle social distinctions. Which is not to say that similar social distinctions don’t also play a role in language in the West; only in a society like Japan it appears that these distinctions are much more oblique and implicit.

To take the argument further you could say that to use any language, like English or Japanese, is to be condemned to evaluate. The simple choice of one word over another implies an inherent value judgement. You make distinctions and judgements as soon as you open your mouth or type a word on a page.

The kinds of judgements you make depend on your particular culture. Western communication styles emphasize “genuine” human relationships (by our standards); whereas Japanese emphasizes social distinctions. An objective language of pure description is the dream of mathematics and science, while the language of human relationships is always full of hidden evaluations and distinctions. So, since I am in Japan, call me “Dawson-san.”

But yet, my students still shout out as they grab their bags, put on their outdoor trainers and frantically hurry to their after-school clubs: “Good evening Lawson-san.” “Goodbye Lawson-san.” Somehow lan- guage always has a way of subverting and revolting against these distinctions and playing, with a child like wonder, with the “fixed” meanings of things. September/October 2003 11 Reflections Upon Returning

By Derrick Simpson-Anderson

We hear a lot of talk about the effects of culture In my first experience living abroad I had become shock and reverse culture shock. But for many accustomed to being out of arm’s reach of my most second- and third-years that have made the pilgrim- intimate creature comforts. Of course I developed age back to your home countries and then returned new ones. For example, dancing my cares away at to continue your JET experience, you may sympa- the Miyazaki hot spot “Kurabu Bito Kurabu” versus thize with an experience I call “culture backlash.” ten-dollar Tuesdays at Copa Cabana; or an occa- sional dinner with my neighbors, the Sugimotos, After a summer visit home, I found myself in a versus Sunday grub with the parents and my little culture-shock regression that made me say, “Whoa! sisters. However, I stilled longed for a bit of nostal- Why didn’t it hit like that last year?” It was more gia, as would anyone in a similar situation. The emotionally taxing to return to Japan to start my ability to tangibly “reach out and touch” various second year than it was to originally come out to people, sights, sounds tastes and smells of my Japan for the first time. being, reasserted a savor that’s unavailable in Japan. As a result of being deprived of that essence for a The unknown mystique of my life in Japan has long year, it was more emotional to re-uproot knowing dissolved and has settled into a familiar rhythm of what I’d be missing rituals and ruts, which made it impossible for me to return to Japan with the same bright-eyed genkiness Although I would not forfeit my experience in the JET I had as a first-year. Don’t get me wrong — I re- program and would rank it as one of my most turned with the utmost enthusiasm to reunite with significant, I dealt with the huge burden of feeling everyone I made bonds with throughout the year and that I was never quite 100 percent “me” in my new to approach my job with a newfound sense of Japanese environment. Despite the relationships I seasoned veteranship. developed throughout my first year, I’ve found difficulties expressing specific aspects of my identity The change in my perception of Japan is more in an environment and to an audience that was comparable to the differences between my adult unfamiliar with them. perception of Christmas and my juvenile perception of it. As an adult my appreciation and love for the Essentially, certain the parts of my identity aren’t holidays is sincere, in that I find it cathartic to understood or received well, if at all, by my Japa- reconnect and spend time with my loved ones; nese social network. Upon returning to the U.S., I however, I’m not overwhelmed with the same anxiety was once again surrounded by a social circle which and curiosity that I held as a child. Long gone are not only understood this side of me, but could the days of wonder, when I was filled with the receive and accept it. This furthered the challenge of anticipation of what Santa would bring; in the same once again leaving those who I perceive as knowing way long gone are the days of anticipating what my me better than anyone else. prefecture would be like, or whether my supervisor and staff would be cool or scary, or whether the I can’t and won’t complain at all about the blessing children would try to kancho me or not. I instead of being able to delve into such a unique cultural approach my life with a strategic energy geared experience. I’ve learned so much in my time in towards using the past year’s experiences to Japan and have so much more to gain. In part, my improve upon my overall JET experience. time here has taught me to further appreciate all that I associate with “back home,” which leads me to my In addition to the loss of the “wonderland” luster, original point. Leaving the Chill Town and Big Apple there is the realization of the emotional stress of and moving across the globe reasserted my appre- being separated from my loved ones. As predictable ciation for all that has made me “me.” Upon returning as certain stresses may have seemed, the concep- to my overpopulated subway, I reattached to Jersey tual preparation for a year away from my “home City and NYC with an even more galvanized bond, base” of Jersey City and NYC proved to pale in which made it more tearful to leave it behind once comparison to how it all actually affected me. more. Revisiting family and friends brought back a myriad of memories and emotions that had been dormant for a year. Derrick Simpson-Anderson is the vice chair of the AJET National Council. 12 AJET Across Japan sushi love By A Sushi Lover, Anonymous

I am in love with sushi. Unabashedly. And with passion. My life has not been the same since I discov- ered the stuff, and I believe my life could not go on without it. At least – what a dreary, dull, unlivable life I imagine it would be. There is nothing quite like raw, fresh, flavorful, succulent fish flesh, pillowed atop a bit of rice, dipped in a bit of soy. It is an unfathomably sensual experience, and one that I have certainly never had with any other kind of food. It is breathtaking, it is exquisite, it is quite possibly the closest you could come to pure passion with a food group.

My love affair began casually, even timidly, but soon escalated to a craving need. Now, I just can’t get enough of it. I could probably eat sushi everyday. I could definitely marry a sushi chef. And don’t doubt that I wouldn’t. Of course, there is a real danger of this happening, considering the amount of time I spend in sushi bars. Sushi is like sex to me. Pleasurable, driven by a craving need, dangerous at times, new and exciting, full of exquisite sensations and mindblowingly wonderful.

Do you question my sanity? Perhaps I should as well. But where would I be in this world without sushi? The Japanese do a lot of strange things, but I tell you, I love them simply for inventing something as unique and wonderful as a fresh slice of raw fish atop a little piece of rice. Who would have even thought to try uncooked fish? How crazy they must have been! It makes no difference now; I revere him or her as a savior for enhancing my life in such a passionate way. There is something about the art of it, and the color of it, and the simplicity of it, and the taste and texture of it, about the way you eat it, and the way it’s made, that quite simply makes it the most wonderful food on the planet. Truly, my last meal before execution would be a platter of raw fresh fish flesh.

There is perhaps nothing I will miss more about Japan than my friend the sushi man. I often thought that if I could take only one thing with me, it might be a sushi chef. I might as well marry him, to ensure he would stay by my side, and fill my desire to devour this exquisite art form from dawn to dusk daily. That, my friend, is why I must leave Japan: to get away from this addiction and these crazy ideas. I warn you, try the stuff, and you too may begin a dangerous liaison.

Of course, a bit of caution – there is nothing worse in this world then cheap, bad, funky or ill-prepared sushi. A taste of it can put you off to the wonders that might have been if you had only tried something as dreamily wonderful as the really tasty stuff. Indeed, there is nothing better. I know it sounds strange, I know I sound silly, but that’s what love will do to you. I am in love with sushi, and my life will never be the same again.

Sushi lovers around the world can indulge their obsession online at www.stickyrice.com. September/October 2003 13 online GREAT WEB SITES TO CHECK OUT

The Quirky Japan Homepage — www3.tky.3web.ne.jp/~edjacob/intro.htm This is the editor’s choice for one of the most interesting Japan sites. Ed Jacob, author of JapanZine’s “Seldom Asked Questions About Japan” column, answers to all those burning inquiries you never knew you had about Japan’s oddities, explains topics from fringe groups to useless employees, plus tells you where not to go on your next vacation — “Conformists, puritans and package tourists not welcome.”

WWWJDIC — www.aa.tufs.ac.jp/~jwb/wwwjdic.html The most useful, most accurate online Japanese-English dictionary out there. WWWJDIC was developed by Jim Breen, a professor at Monash University in Australia. It allows word lookup in roman letters, katakana, hiragana and kanji; kanji lookup by a couple different methods; and translation of words in Japanese text via cut-and-paste. Lucky DoCoMo users can even access it from your keitai!

International Tourism Center of Japan — www.itcj.or.jp Japan Quick-Easy Hotel Plan — shop.knt.co.jp/quick/hotel/index.htm Japanese Inn Group — www.jpinn.com Don’t speak enough Japanese to make a hotel reservation? Tired of asking sempai and supervisors to plan your vacation for you? Try the three useful sites above all allow you to search for hotels and ryokan and make reservations online — in English! The International Tourism Center specializes in budget hotels and ryokan, while the Quick-Easy Hotel Plan offers budget and regular hotels. The Japanese Inn Group offers ryokan only. Happy trails!

John’s Shaken FAQ — www.ymcajapan.org/yokohama/eng/bus-col/shaken/shaken1.htm The car owners among us tremble with fear at the very mention of the word shaken (annual car inspection). How much will it cost? How long will it take? Will I make it out alive? This site, written from the personal perspective of a car owner, will help ease your mind. And for the mechanically inclined, it even gives tips on a do-it-yourself inspection that could cost you less than 10,000 yen.

Happatai’s “Yatta!” Video — www.slackstreet.com/content/20011029.htm If you’re a fan of singing, dancing, mostly-naked Japanese men (who isn’t?) then you’ll love the video for “Yatta!” by the made-for-TV comedy-slash-singing group Happatai. This one has been making the circuit of Weblogs and e-mail forwards, and it earned Happatai enough overseas notoriety that American comedian Jimmy Kimmel invited the group to appear on his talk show. The site above features English lyrics; if you can read Japanese and want the real story behind Happatai, check out www.ponycanyon.co.jp/video/ happa_index.html.

The Kanji SITE — www.kanjisite.com There are a lot of kanji study sites out there, but this one stands out for its great interactive format and ease of use for beginners.The Kanji SITE is aimed primarily at people who are studying for the Japanese Lan- guage Proficiency Test, so the kanji are organized according to the syllabi for Levels 4, 3 and 2 of that test. Study compounds or individual kanji — no need for flashcards with this site around!

The Internet TESL Journal — iteslj.org This one is a perenially helpful resource for TESL/TEFL teachers, and as such many ALTs may have discov- ered it by now. But just in case, we wanted to mention it here. Each month, a new online edition provides teaching techniques, lesson plans and theory-based articles. With content designed to be of “immediate practical use,” you’re sure to find something you can use on this site even though it isn’t specific to Japan. Search the archives for eight years’ worth of great ESL/EFL ideas! 14 AJET Across Japan

the palpable artifacts of memory

I‘ve never met him face to face. Yet, I want to tell you about him, what little I do know. You see, no one has ever introduced me to him. He died before I was even born. I’ve only met him quite by accident; yet perhaps I alone know more of him than anyone else living right now. But I don’t even know his name.

His father, who was a carpenter, built the house where he grew up, in a little village outside of Asahi-cho. From the windows of this house, he could see terraced rice fields lying at the base of a single low mountain. Perhaps he worked in one of these fields when he was a young man, or watched his neighbors as they did so. Some- time in his youth, he joined the navy. Healthy, strong, young, he seemed proud to be able to serve his country.

There are albums of fading sepia photos, taken during his training, which shows him smiling with friends, training with weapons, relaxing under cherry trees. There are cut-outs of his favorite actresses, and perhaps girls he had crushes on. I’ve seen the grammar school notebooks in which he and his sister drew pictures and colored, brilliant with crayon even after so many years. I’ve seen the notebooks he wrote in, his ID card, and a small pin in a purple velvet case. I’ve seen his formal photograph, fallen from the wall, with the words, in Japanese, “Killed in battle.”

He couldn’t have been much older than I am now. Under other circumstances, I might have smiled at him as I passed him on the street. I try to imagine if my grandfather, also a sailor in the very same war, had been the one killed instead of this Japanese man. My mother, and therefore I, would never have been born. And this nameless Japanese man, so brave, so handsome in his photo- graphs, would have been the one to live, marry, and have a family – and a granddaughter, just my age, who would be living today.

Instead, I, an American, from the country against which he fought and at whose hands he died some 50 odd years ago, am the one who finds him again, who fingers the mementos of his life, lying Jessica Drexler forgotten and discarded in the crumbling old farmhouse in which his young life was lived.

We met because a Japanese friend of mine knew an elderly woman who had told him about some property she was trying to sell in a neighboring town. There was a deserted house on the property that September/October 2003 15

she was going to have torn down. My friend had gus. The faint aroma of incense was still notice- asked her if he could go through it and see what was able. When we touched the gilded carvings they left inside, and she gave him permission to do broke off in our hands, the untreated wood to anything he wanted with the house until it was torn which they had been attached having long ago down. My friend happened to know that I get excited been consumed by insects. about that kind of thing — rummaging through wreckage as it were — and so one In the main room was a large open-pit early Saturday morning we went to the fireplace. Shelves still house to see what we could find. contained cracked The two-story house tilted to one side, tea its windows and doorways gaping cups, wide, and one entire side of the bowls house had already fallen in. The and tiny tatami floors were sunken in places, sake and light peeped through a few cups. holes in the tiled roof and the first Piles of floor’s ceiling. The staircase had trash rotted away, but we borrowed a cluttered ladder and climbed up to the the second floor. corners: empty Bundles of twigs for glass starting fires were bottles, old still stacked in clothes, one corner, along newspapers, with three crates rusty pans which contained and broken multiple settings of gardening a simple black and wood- laquerware set, working perhaps used at a equipment. large gathering of After the son’s some kind, a mar- death and the riage, or a funeral. In father’s eventual the next room were a passing, the few empty chests and house sat two cabinets with empty, seem- drawers. These were tucked into a corner away from ingly just as it had been left. A faded calendar still the hole in the ceiling and the one in the floor below hung on the wall, a half used soy sauce container it, and a few ratty and tattered kimono and a couple left on the counter; the left-over wreckage of lives of bug-eaten scrolls were all that we found within. once lived and lost.

Downstairs, one room had a pile of old futon, rotting, We sifted through the fading memorabilia, piecing which had fallen through the floor. Another room was together forgotten lives and wondering about open on one side to the elements, yet a small chest those we never knew, yet brushing against the of drawers held some albums and assorted yellowed remains of what once tied them so closely to this papers. In the opposite corner was a huge black world: mementos, the palpable artifacts of laquered cabinet which contained the family’s memory. Buddhist altar.

After we pried the rusty and creaking hinges open, the inside glimmered in the dim house with elaborate gilded gold carvings, candlesticks, an incense burner and other Buddhist paraphernalia. Candles and matches waited inside for the prayers for the dead Jessica Drexler is the editor of JETFuel, who had been forgotten. How many years had it been the magazine of Fukui AJET. sealed? It was like opening a glimmering sarcopha- 16 AJET Across Japan

books BY MATTHEW PEDDIE

bonhomie as in this festival in Uwajima: “A man yelled Hokkaido Highway Blues ‘Hey, foreigner!’ and came over to present me with a Hitchhiking Japan can of beer. ‘For you, Mr. Foreigner. Japanese beer. Number one! Japan is an international country!’ and he returned amid hoots and laughter to his circle of friends.” Will Ferguson Maybe if you don’t drink beer, you would have done as Canongate 2003, 344 pages the author did next: “I dropped the can, unopened, into the first garbage bin I came upon.” However, Will Ferguson is not averse to beer, and dedicates a few chapters throughout this book to the pursuit of alco- by-product of Japan’s English-teaching phenomenon A hol, which makes his smug dismissal of this act of and a widely-acclaimed “classic” of the travel-writing cameraderie somewhat galling. genre, Canadian Will Ferguson’s Hokkaido Highway Blues is an account of the author’s hitch-hiking odys- Many of the familiar things Will Ferguson describes in sey along the length of Japan, following the cherry Hokkaido Highway Blues will strike a chord with ALTs: blossom front as it swept up from the south. the inside yet perpetually outside experience of the foreigner in Japan; parties and their aftermaths; the In general I am irritated by blurbs on book covers that recreational pursuit of pretty girls (or pretty boys); the proclaim “Hunter Thompson meets Jamie Oliver spliced cosmetic use of the English language with uninten- with Jane Austen,” as though readers are unable to tionally hilarious results; unasked for acts of generos- appreciate a book on its own terms. However, in this ity; and most of all the ambivalent nationalism that runs case two comparisons are apt: if you are a fan of Bill in the blood of almost every Japanese. It is these de- Bryson’s travelogues, you will appreciate Ferguson’s scriptions that make Hokkaido Highway Blues worth somewhat peevish attitude to Japan and the tone of reading. aggrieved mockery that pervades Hokkaido Highway Blues. The other travel writer who came to mind while Ultimately, however, I found myself unsympathetic to reading this was Paul Theroux, whose wan pursuit of the author as he bludgeons his way through the “true the Russian train hostesses in The Great Railway Ba- heart of Japan,” cadging rides and mocking the atti- zaar finds an echo in Ferguson’s equally unsuccess- tudes of those who help him, penning the occasional ful amorous exploits. mawkish haiku or zen-hued “insight.” Ferguson wants to experience Japan on a deeper level than that of the In one of many monologues on the state of the realm, mere traveler – he wants to be accepted by his hosts, Ferguson describes the foreign resident’s attitude to but at the same time he reserves the right to laugh at Japan as “a pendulum of emotion, alternating between their follies. attraction and repulsion, affection and anger – back and forth.” Ferguson’s book inspired a similar reac- But to be fair, the “blues” in the title indicates the tenor tion in me – I was alternately amused by the accuracy the author takes in this book. Reading it may help alle- of some of his descriptions and annoyed by his atti- viate some of the inevitable stress that arises when tude to the country— setting his expectations low and dealing with the less pleasant bureaucratic aspects of celebrating with a tirade when those low expectations your life in Japan. were met or exceeded.

I found myself analysing Hokkaido Highway Blues with the supercritical eye of the one-time Japanophile, the attitude referred to by English author David Mitchell Read any good Japan- as “you’re standing in my Japan.” In one instance, Ferguson sourly remarks as he hitches out of Niigata related books lately? city, “I had a sore butt as well, and so I should; I had Tell your fellow JETs about it! been royally screwed by Niigata.” There are many more examples of the sometimes patronising approach Submit reviews to Ferguson takes to his subjects: the inhabitants of the cities he passes through. We’ve all experienced Japa- [email protected] nese street parties, and shared a moment of drunken September/October 2003 17

subsequent English crew sent to establish a trading Samurai William post in Japan “were delighted to enter into liaisons The adventurer who unlocked Japan with the local wenches.” Contemporary Western inhabitants of Japan may be Giles Milton amused, as I was, to read that some aspects of the Sceptre 2003, 399 pages foreigner’s life in Japan today are the same as they were 400 years ago. Consider this excerpt on Richard Cocks, the English captain of the trading outpost: “Cocks, whose success with English women had been If Hokkaido Highway Blues’ protagonist comes across woeful, took a shine to a girl called Matinga, who be- as ultimately baffled by his six years in Japan, the came his mistress.” ALTs will also be interested to hero of Giles Milton’s Samurai William is the exact note that in the early 1600s in Japan, “Drunkenness opposite. One of the surprising aspects of Japanese … was a way of life.” Milton goes on to describe a history Samurai William illustrates is the extent to familiar aspect of Japanese society, and the predict- which the West (principally England, Portugal and able foreign reaction to it: “Many Japanese saw noth- Holland in this case) was aware of Japan, and the ing wrong in drinking themselves into oblivion and would amount of contact those countries had with Japan as continue their revelries until no one was left standing. early as the middle of the sixteenth century. It was one of the few Japanese customs that was ea- gerly adopted by the English, and the only one at which Giles Milton’s genius is in bringing to life a character they truly excelled.” several centuries old and making his adventures far from home seem vivid enough to be happening now. Amongst all of this bad behaviour is the story of how He is assisted a great deal by the facts, which on their William Adams adapted to the customs of his adop- own make for a breathtaking tale of adventure and re- tive country: becoming fluent in the language, gaining sourcefulness as William Adams, age 32 in the year the trust and eventually the respect of one of the local 1598, embarks on a voyage “that held the prospect of lords, and rising to a position of considerable power in plunder and booty.” Milton spices up the tale with well- his court. Just how attuned “Samurai” Williams be- informed conjecture (“[William Adams] must have been came to the ways of Japan, and how correspondingly a bear of a man – tough as salt pork and bred to sur- out of touch he was with the culture he left behind can vive hardship”) and suitably swashbuckling use of lan- be seen when he was called to mediate between guage. Cocks’ newly landed band of English and the Japa- nese. Milton reports that Adams was appalled by the Adams, although an Englishman, was sailing with a direct approach of the English in demanding to speak Dutch-organised merchant expedition that was at- with the shogun himself, but in typical Japanese fash- tempting to establish lucrative trading links with the ion, when the English became too rude Adams dis- relatively untapped wealth of the Far East. Untapped creetly absented himself rather than directly refusing as the East was, it was also relatively uncharted, so it to do the English bidding. was a minor miracle in itself that after an heroic sea- journey of two years, when the original crew had been In this day of fairly instantaneous travel between con- whittled down to a starving half, Adams and his men tinents on journeys spanning vast oceans, it’s hard arrived in Japan in 1600. They weren’t the first West- not to become blasé about travel itself. We consider it erners to set foot in Japan, as for half a century Portu- the greatest discomfort to spend fourteen or so hours guese Jesuit Missionaries had been established and in an aircraft, captive to bland movies and even blander attempting to subvert the native beliefs of the locals. food. Milton’s book recreates the actual terror, real dis- You might have thought the odd corn-fed Jehova’s comfort and undreamed of wonders that attended on Witness or pair of Mormons you sometimes see the people voyaging those same vast distances 400 pedalling earnestly along the footpath in your average years ago. Samurai William is a fascinating testament Japanese metropolis was an incongruous sight, but to the resourcefulness of one of those adventurers, as this book shows, missionaries have a long history and an interesting insight into the meeting of cultures in Japan. that began in Japan so long ago and is still in process today. The precedent for foreigners behaving as they do in Japan (and not always to the credit of their home coun- tries) seems to have been set early. Another explorer reportedly commented upon making a visit to Japan Matthew Peddie is a former ALT who lived that it offered “the means of gratifying the passion for and worked in Niigata Prefecture for two sexual indulgence, just as it abounds in every other vice” and Milton backs this theory up, claiming that a years. 18 AJET Across Japan

Updated 2003-04 AJET National Council News & Updates Chair: Amanda Cornaglia, [email protected]

Vice-Chair: Derrick Simpson-Anderson Changes to NAJET staff [email protected] Since our last issue staff changes have been made in National AJET; please refer to the Treasurer: Jason Wians, [email protected] updated contacts (left). No matter your prob- lem, we are happy to help in any way we can. Block 1: Keith Bendall, [email protected]

Block 2: Danola Dorasamy, [email protected] Two New Books About JET Block 3: Jaysie Dambach, [email protected] Amanda Poynter, a Fukushima ALT, is compiling Block 4: Jamie Shah, [email protected] a new book to assist prospective JETs in their decision to join the JET Programme. She is Block 5: Debbie Ostapa, [email protected] accepting essays (approx. 5,000 words) that are a personal account of your JET Programme experi- Block 6: Rhiannon Jennings, [email protected] ence. “We want to cover as many different sce- narios as possible — the good, the bad and the Block 7: Brooke Eplee, [email protected] ugly,” Poynter said. “This book will be for all those prospective JETs whose questions are always an- Block 8: Dave Cowland-Cooper, [email protected] swered with that annoying mantra ‘Every situation is different.’” Block 9: Steve Woerner, [email protected] Poynter’s aim is represent JETs from all countries, Block 10: Lindsay Marsh, [email protected] walks of life, ages and situations — “So if you have anything to say, be it a broad topic or an isolated Block 11: Emily Plum, [email protected] event, then please put pen to paper!” Entries should be e-mailed to [email protected] by Dec. CIR/SEA Rep: Vivian Beebe, [email protected] 12, 2003. Poynter reserves the right to edit entries and entries will not be returned. Include full con- Database Admin.: Ryan McDonald, [email protected] tact details including name, location, nationality, age and number of years on the Programme. Interpreter: Adam Chapin, [email protected] Another new book about the JET Programme, writ- Publications Liaison: Rhiannon Jennings ten and edited by former JETs and JTEs, is “Get- [email protected] ting Both Feet Wet: Experiences inside The JET Program.” With seven essays by former JETs, Advertising Editor: Yves Laforge, [email protected] seven essays by Japanese who have worked with JETs and a message from Prime Minister Junichiro Webmaster: Ian Smith-Dahl, [email protected] Koizumi, the book presents a well-rounded view of the Programme. It claims to “help relieve pressure Systems Admin.: Jason Lee, [email protected] on the JET who feels imprisoned in a small town and in a hostile atmosphere” and also to be “great SIG/NG Liaison: Jaysie Dambach, [email protected] for deflating those who think they discovered and are about to remake Japan.” To order or for more Corporate Liaison: Brooke Eplee, [email protected] information, see imcbook.net.

Marketing/Sales Liaison: Lindsay Marsh [email protected] JETs of African Descent Guidebook/Report Liaison: Dave Cowland-Cooper A new group has formed to provide support for [email protected] JETs of African descent. For more information, see groups.yahoo.com/group/JETS_AD. September/October 2003 19

The 5th International Translation Competition 2003-2004, Shizuoka, Japan

If you can read Japanese and have a strong desire to promote greater understanding of Japanese literature and culture around the world, this is an opportunity to fulfill that desire by exercising your writing skills. You could also win as much as a million yen and a year’s scholarship to study in Japan.

Deadline: December 10, 2004 To obtain an application form, see www1.sphere.ne.jp/shizuoka parting shot

The colorful produce of Hokkaido’s waters is offered for sale on the streets of Otaru-shi. By A. Atkinson.

If you’d like your photo to appear here, please submit it in JPEG or GIF format to [email protected].