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THE FRYE CARSON OXFORD An historic shoe style with modern flair that makes big impacts—fashionably and environmentally. History of The Frye Company and the Oxford Shoe Product Profile Environmental Impacts Caused by the Production of Shoes The Frye Company and the Oxford shoe style have existed for well over a My Fryes—why I bought them and why I love them! Shoes similar to those produced by the Frye brand cause a variety of environmental problems near the facilities at which century. The supply, demand and materials have changed over the years. they are produced. I love buying and collecting shoes, but my favorite by far are the Frye Carson Oxfords I bought nearly a Cattle Problems year ago. They are a stylish, feminine twist on the classic male dress shoe and are made from beautiful, durable materials that have held up since I originally bought them. However, my absolute favorite part of Breeding and raising cattle for leather requires massive amounts these shoes is the history behind them. Combined, the Frye brand and the oxford style shoe have a deep of pastureland and fossil fuels. According to National Geographic, rooting in American, Scottish and Irish history. Every time I put them on I feel like I’m wearing a big part over 40% of the Earth’s land has been given over to agriculture, of my heritage! I find styles like these intriguing because they are able to transcend fads and appeal to which includes the farming of cattle as well as the farming of feed numerous generations over time. that is used for cattle. The need for fossil fuels increases when 1830 - The oxford gains popularity machines and vehicles are brought in to tear down trees and at Oxford University. forests for additional pastureland, creating CO2 emissions. Cow 1640 - Origin of the Oxford shoe farts also produce vast amounts of methane, a greenhouse gas that is in Ireland and Scotland. 20 times more impactful than CO2. Runoff from feedlots and dairy farms creates a source of water pollution and health defects, and also makes it difficult to grow “replacement” forests. 1864 - Frye boots are fabricated for Exposure To Health-Damaging Substances 1863 - The John A. Frye Shoe soldiers fighting on both sides Company is founded in Marlborough, in the American Civil War. People that work and live around tanneries suffer ailments Massachusetts. At that time, caused by exposure to toxic chemicals used during the tanning the shoes produced by the Frye and dyeing processes. These toxic chemicals include but are not company were created as practical 1880’s - Frye boots become a limited to: chromium mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, staples for factory workers rather favorite of New England pioneers and various oils, dyes, and finishes, some of which are cyanide- than objects of fashion and style. traveling westward. based and contain carcinogens. In fact, workers die from cere- brovascular disease, lung cancer and leukemia, all of which are caused by regular exposure these chemicals. Furthermore, tannery and dyeing effluents contain a number of toxic pollutants, which cause further harm when they are dumped back into nearby streams. Significant Producers and Exporters of Leather Because the leather industry spans the globe, people and environments are affected over great amounts of space rather than in smaller, more centralized areas. Qlo, because many of the steps required to make a shoe must be done by hand, workers are directly exposed to the materials that they are handling. 1926 - Oxford shoes experience a huge ressurgence of popularity. USA Argentina Spain Eqypt China Water Depletion India Mexico Brazil Italy Korea Cotton is a water-wasting crop. It takes more than 20,000 liters Turkey of water to produce 1kg of cotton, which is the equivalent to 1942 - Frye Wellingtons (Jet a single t-shirt and jeans. According to the EPA, about 20 mil- Boots) are shipped around the lion tons of cotton are produced each year—about 19,000 kgs, globe, from Normandy to Okinawa, which equates to over 380,000,000 liters of water. The Aral Sea, to American soldiers fighting in which was once the world’s 4th largest lake, is now 70% smaller WWII. due to demands from nearby cotton farms. Many additional water wastes are caused by leaky irrigation systems, wasteful field application methods, the cultivation of thirsty crops not suited to the environment, and weak environmental legislation that does not control water use by factories and farms. 1960-70 - Frye’s “Campus” boot becomes a symbol of the 60’s 1987 - Frye is purchased by and is worn by all types and Reebok International. ages. A version of these boots Runoff and Bioaccumulation is presently on display at the Smithsonian Institute as an icon Pesticides such as insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides, are of this decade. spread over fields of cotton in order to guard against pests that destroy the cotton. Fertilizers are also used to enrich the soil. These substances cause runoff and bioaccumulation in nearby Tracing and Cutting Punching Forming Grinding Flame Polishing waters. Bioaccumulated contaminants can cause health damage to the animal populations of nearby ecosystems, eventually causing long-term damage and threatening biodiversity. 2003 - Frye’s stops production Additionally, these contaminants are not limited to local in Massachusetts and begins to ecosystems but instead travel throughout the global environment, 2010 - Frye is bought by a outsource most of its bootmaking causing significant problems in colder regions. When they evaporate, Chinese Company, Li & Fung. to China. they cause problems such as toxic rain. PROCESS TREE A visual documentation of the steps involved in the production of the Frye Carson Oxford Shoe. Materials and Construction Adhesive Leather Cotton Plastic Heel Insole Aglets Laces Upper Outsole Keywords: “Cotton,” “Leather,” “Tanning,” “Processing,” “Distribution,” “Manufacturing,” “Pesticides/Herbicides,” “Frye,” “Vaqueras,” “Sustainable,” “Factory,” “Runoff,” “Chemical Waste” Sources: How It’s Made. Web. February 10 2012. <http://science.discovery.com/tv-shows/how-its-made/videos/how-its-made-fine-leather-shoes.htm>; Vimeo. Web. February 12 2012. <http://vimeo.com/41520977>; Vaqueras. Web. February 13 2012. <http://vaqueras.com/>; PETA. Web. February 10 2012. <http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/ leather-environmental-hazards.aspx>; EuroLeather. Web. February 12 2012. <http://www.euroleather.com/process.htm>; National Geographic. February 18 2012. <http://animals.na- tionalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/water-buffalo/>; Made How. Web. February 10 2012. <http://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Cotton.html>; Cotton Counts. Web. February 12 2012. <http://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/story/spun-and-woven.cfm>; Made Man. Web. February 19 2012. <http://www.mademan.com/mm/how-are-shoelaces-made.html>; The Frye Company. Web. February 8 2012. <http://www.thefryecompany.com/>; PETA. Web. February 10 2012. <http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-ani- mals-abused-and-killed-for-their-skins.aspx>; Born Free USA. Web. February 20 2012. <http://www.bornfreeusa.org/articles.php?more=1&p=370>; Made Man. Web. February 20 2012. <http://www.mademan.com/mm/how-are-shoelaces-made.html>; Process Tree by Catalina Parra, Pratt Institute PROPOSALS AND CASE STUDIES Alternative methods that could reduce environmental impacts caused by the production of leather shoes. Orginizations Advocating Greener Leather Practices Natural Dyes Leather Alternatives A handful of organizations and groups exist that help to better the environmental standards of companies involved Natural dyes have existed for centuries and are much more Other companies in the fashion industry have started to implement materials with similar qualities to leather that do not create the same, with shoes and leather. eco-friendly than synthetic dyes, which are often toxic. harmful impacts. Leather Working Group This group focuses mostly on the tanning process within the leather manufacturing industry, as it assesses the compliance and environmental performance of tanners. They offer guidelines, suggest safe practices, and promote improvement. Retailers, manufacturers, chemical suppliers and technical experts are all involved. Sustainable Apparel Coalition The SAC strives to rid the fashion and footwear industry of all unnecessary manufacturing processes that cause harm to the environment. They also encourage products and Cochineal Bug - Red companies to have positive impacts on the people and communities associated with their manufacturing activities. Barkcloth Cork Recycled Cardboard Barkcloth is a durable, versatile material Cork has long been a reputable candidate Paper No. 9, a company based out of that comes from trees of the Moraceae for sustainable alternatives in many areas Brooklyn, takes recycled cardboard and Outdoor Industry Association family. It is made by beating sodden strips of product design, as it is known to grow creates a leather alternative by massaging of inner bark and may be finished so that back in less than nine years. It is firm and the paper and treating it with natural oils. This company is a trade association for companies it resembles leather. The company distresses in the same ways as leather, The result is as soft as leather and is in the active, outdoor recreation business. OIA Refinity takes advantage of this leather but is actually lighter and lacks the bulk of backed with canvas to equal leather’s provides sustainable trade services for over 4,000 alternative for one of its trench coats, leather, making it easier to handle for the user. durability. This material ages well as has manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, sales representatives which has the same tough, fray-proof similar, natural-looking qualities. and retailers in the outdoor industry, primarily in qualities as leather. the United States. Timberland Shoes Conclusion Morinda Tree Bark - Red Timberland has a large section of their website entirely dedicated to information on the environment, the impacts that they are making, and what they are doing The Frye Company has a number of options that could make their product more eco-friendly! to reduce these impacts.

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