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ABSTRACT STATON, SKYLA JA'til. Analyzing Body Shape and Fit in Plus-Size Women Using Sizeusa Data

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ABSTRACT STATON, SKYLA JA'til. Analyzing Body Shape and Fit in Plus-Size Women Using Sizeusa Data ABSTRACT STATON, SKYLA JA’TIL. Analyzing Body Shape and Fit in Plus-size Women using SizeUSA Data. (Under the direction of Dr. Cynthia Istook). This study identified the body shapes present among a sample of the plus-size female population in the US. It also analyzed the size rule tables of several plus-size brands and industry standards for their ability to fit the population as well as the body shape each sizing standard was consistent with. New shaped based sizing systems were created and tested for fit to determine if they could provide a better fit for the sample. Previous SizeUSA data for plus-size females (waist measurement of at least 34 inches) were used as the sample in this study. Body shapes were identified among this sample using the FFIT technique which identified 9 shapes. The retail standards were analyzed using methods similar to “best fit” practices to determine which subjects fit into the industry standards and retail standards for plus-sizes. Shape based sizing systems were created using the means of the 7 key dimensions (bust, stomach, waist, high hip, abdomen, hip and hip seat) for subjects who identified with the shapes that were most represented throughout the sample. “Best fit” related practices were again used to test fit of the subjects in the new systems. Results showed that the Rectangle and Spoon shapes were the most represented throughout SizeUSA plus-size sample. New shape based systems were created and results of analyses showed that the newly created systems provided a much better fit than ASTM standards for plus-sizes. Results from this study will be valuable to manufacturers and retailers as they will have a clearer knowledge of the dimensions and shapes of current plus-size women and will be better equipped to serve various silhouettes apparel to this market. © Copyright 2019 by Skyla Staton All Rights Reserved Analysis of Body Shape & Fit in Plus-size Women using SizeUSA Data by Skyla Ja’til Staton A dissertation submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Textile Technology Management Raleigh, North Carolina 2019 APPROVED BY: _______________________________ _______________________________ Dr. Cynthia Istook Dr. Delisia Matthews Committee Chair _______________________________ _______________________________ Dr. Lori Rothenberg Dr. Yingjiao Xu DEDICATION To my 3 year old self, “Despite the trauma life inflicted upon you and the burdens you were forced to bear, you made it…” ii BIOGRAPHY The author, Skyla Ja’til Staton, is the daughter of Reverend Darryl Staton and Gardenia Wilford (Reverend Empro Wilford, step-father). She was born on February 15, 1990 in Tarboro, NC and has one sister, Felecia Staton, who is 4 years her junior. Growing up, Skyla discovered her interests in apparel design in the midst of a tragedy in which Hurricane destroyed her home and all of her belongings. Throughout this time, she received numerous clothing donations will living in a shelter; however, Skyla’s small frame prevented her from fitting any of the oversized clothing. With little sewing experience and limited supplies, Skyla altered the clothing the fit her small frame. Her love for apparel design was inspired by this pivotal time in her life. Skyla graduated from Tarboro High School and went on to pursue a business degree at East Carolina University with intentions of becoming a future entrepreneur in the fashion industry. She quickly realized her creative mind exceeded the requirements of the business and after a year transferred to North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University to pursue a dual-degree in Fashion Merchandising and Design. Skyla excelled greatly as a fashion major. She graduated in 2012 with a 4.0 GPA and was highly recommended to pursue an advanced degree. After a year break, she began her graduate career at North Carolina State University in the Fall of 2013. Skyla continued to excel in her academics. She begin conducting research in sizing and fit and was well-known throughout her department for her dedication to research in the plus-size industry. Skyla presented in several research symposiums, conferences and also received some publications throughout her time at State. She received her Master’s in Textiles in the Spring of 2015 and then continued her academic endeavors to pursue a terminal degree in Textile iii Technology Management. Upon completion of this degree, she plans to use her knowledge and skillsets to educate others with a career in academia. iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS First and foremost, I would like to thank Dr. Istook (Committee Chair) for her support and guidance throughout this research endeavor. There were many obstacles along the way but she stuck with me through the completion of this dissertation research. To my committee members: Dr. Lori Rothenberg, I extend my gratitude to for sharing her knowledge and helping me with the statistical portions of this research. Her assistance with the numerous data analyses and variety of ways to present such a large amount of data were essential to the success of this research study. Dr. Delisia Matthews, I thank for her support with this research study. She was great at helping me identify ways my research will be an asset to the industry. She also provided me with some financial support along way by allowing me to assist her with some research she was working on. I thank her for all she has taught me. Dr. Yingjiao Xu, I offer my appreciation for her feedback. She always asked the tough questions which encouraged and motivated to think critically. I appreciate her for pushing me to be the best of me. She was truly a great asset to this research. To my graduate representatives: Martin Hubbe, I thank him for serving during my preliminary exam. Nathalie Lavoine, I am very grateful to her for stepping in at the last minute to serve during my final exam. I wouldn’t have finished in time if it wasn’t for her quick response and participation. To Jon Fijen ([TC]²): I thank him for allowing me to use their 3D body data and also for the continuous assistance and support I received while reviewing the scan. This data was the foundation of my research study and I truly appreciate [TC]² for their generosity. v To Dr. Jon Rust, Selina Williams & Dr. Stephen Michaelsen: I thank you all for your help in providing various avenues to financially support my studies in the past few years. I appreciate each and every opportunity you provided. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ......................................................................................................................... x LIST OF FIGURES .................................................................................................................... xvi Chapter 1: Introduction .............................................................................................................. 1 Rationale ............................................................................................................................ 1 Statement of the Problem ................................................................................................... 2 Definition of Terms............................................................................................................ 3 Plus-size ................................................................................................................. 3 Body Shape ............................................................................................................ 4 Fit ........................................................................................................................... 4 Research Questions ............................................................................................................ 5 Limitations ......................................................................................................................... 5 Chapter Two: Review of Literature ........................................................................................... 7 The Influence of Obesity ................................................................................................... 7 3D Body Scanning ............................................................................................................. 8 Human Solutions .................................................................................................... 8 Styku .................................................................................................................... 10 Size Stream .......................................................................................................... 11 [TC]² ..................................................................................................................... 13 ZOZO Suit ........................................................................................................... 14 Body Shape ...................................................................................................................... 15 JCPenney.............................................................................................................. 15 FFIT for Apparel .................................................................................................. 17 Identifying Shapes Numerically .......................................................................... 19 Body Shape Assessment Scale............................................................................
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