The City of Brotherly Suds Philadelphia Stumps to Become the Nation’s Top Craft Destination By John Encarnacion hen Frommer’s named Philadelphia among the world’s best cities for beer this past June, it marked widespread recognition of what many Philadelphians Whave been aware of for the past few years. Philadelphia – and the surrounding region – is a great place for those who like good beer. Some may find it surprising that Philadelphia was THE RISE OF NEIGHBORHOOD BARS recognized by Frommer’s as one of only three U.S. cities, It all starts with bars. If you want to drink good beer beyond along with Milwaukee and Portland, Ore., out of the 14 “TV” beer, you’re probably going to need to find a bar that worldwide.  Survey the region, however, and you will find serves it. Given Pennsylvania’s currently restrictive beer laws, excellent local as well as an expanding array of bars it’s a challenge to find specialty beers in stores, particularly if and restaurants specializing in serving good beer (read: NOT you don’t want to shell out for full cases. Miller Lite, Budweiser or Coors Light). The city is more than Fortunately, Philadelphia has featured excellent beer bars worthy to be named alongside other notable beer cities such as for many years. It’s these bars, as much as or more than any Dublin, Munich and Brussels. other factor, that have helped the city’s rise to beer prominence. In particular, the craft beer scene has significantly risen into “This city has always had a ton of very good neighborhood prominence. The Brewers Association defines a craft beer as a bars – far more, obviously, than brewers,” said Don Russell, beer brewed with an annual production of less than two million who writes the “Joe Sixpack” beer column for the Philadelphia barrels, with less than 25 percent of Daily News. “Before there were craft the brewery owned or controlled by an brewers in Philly, there were very good alcoholic beverage industry member beer bars – notably, the Khyber, which who is not themselves a craft brewer. “One of the reasons has been a great beer destination since Craft beers, which currently make up the 1970s. I’ve made the point before about seven percent of the volume of Philadelphia is such that many local brewers, in fact, were beer sold in the country, are made with a great beer city is inspired by the great beers they were traditional ingredients, such as malted drinking in Philly bars. It’s one of the barley, and tend to be distinctive and that in any of our reasons that every local brewer makes flavorful rather than simply catering at least one Belgian-style – they to mass appeal. Because of added craft beer bars, you first tasted the style in places like flavor, craft beers tend to be a little Bridgid’s or Copa Too.” more expensive than your run-of-the- will find bartenders What has occurred in the past few mill commercial beer.  Still, growing who are extremely years is a dramatic increase in the numbers of craft beer drinkers don’t number of neighborhood spots that seem to mind paying a slight premium knowledgeable.” specialize in serving good beers. Much for tastier beer. of the credit should probably go to Whether it is locally brewed Monk’s Café, which was opened in products or domestic beers that have Center City on South 16th Street in garnered national and worldwide recognition being available 1985. Before it started winning acclaim such as one of the in the area, the Philadelphia craft beer scene is vibrant and “Top 10 Places in the WORLD to Have A Beer Before You deserving of acclaim. Annual events such as the Philly Craft Die” in All About Beer magazine, Monk’s is believed to be Beer Festival and Philly Beer Week have helped solidify the first bar in the country to have Belgian beer available on Philadelphia’s reputation, echoed by Beer Week’s tagline, as tap, which led to the rise of the popularity of Belgian beer in “America’s Best Beer-Drinking City.” the city. By extension, craft brewers produced Belgian-style So how did Philadelphia reach this status? How did a city, beers and other distinct products that soon made their way to whose last major brewery, Schmidt’s, shut down in 1987, rise the city’s bars. Over time, sports bars, Irish bars and even dive into prominence in the beer-drinking world?  The answer bars began serving craft beers, in addition to the usual fare of is a combination of factors: good beer bars popping up in commercial beers. virtually every neighborhood, local craft brewers developing Specifically, though, gastropubs – which serve high- innovative beers and Philly Beer Week growing, in numbers quality food in addition to good beer – and bars specializing of events and venues, to becoming the largest festival of its in serving craft beers have grown widespread in much of the kind devoted to craft beers. city. Walk into Resurrection Ale House, located across from

28 the philadelphia lawyer Fall 2010 Naval Square at Grays Ferry Avenue Fortunately, as a whole, Philadelphia THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE and Catharine Street, and you will find bartenders that serve craft beers don’t LOCAL CRAFT BEERS a place that probably would not have have that problem. As of the time of its 100th year of existed even five years ago. Opened “One of the reasons Philadelphia is brewing beer in 1960, Schmidt’s was in fall 2009, this small, split-level such a great beer city is that in any of our brewing more than 2.2 million barrels, bar hardly falls into the conception craft beer bars, you will find bartenders the vast majority of which were sold in of a traditional neighborhood bar. In who are extremely knowledgeable Philadelphia. When Schmidt’s closed in addition to an extensive bottled beer and enthusiastic about the beers being 1987, only a few area breweries, such list, it features 13 beers on tap – all of offered at their bars and very eager to as Yuengling in Pottsville, were left. which are craft beers. Don’t go looking discuss them with their customers,” Fortunately, on the heels of for Bud Light or even Rolling Rock. said Rob Jones, a Resurrection Ale Schmidt’s closing its doors in 1987, Instead, the draught list features highly House patron. Ed and Carol Stoudt opened the rated beers, such as Russian River Ask a bartender at Ten Stone about state’s first microbrewery, Stoudt’s Consecration, Lost Abbey Judgment what a particular Victory Brewing beer Brewing Company, in Adamstown, Ale and Great Divide Yeti. Pay another is like, and he’ll tell you about its taste Lancaster County. Stoudt’s specializes visit a few weeks later, and chances and that it’s slightly stronger at eight in German-style as well as English and are, there will be a completely different percent alcohol. Order a Dogfish Head American . selection of quality brews. Festina Peche, and he’ll make sure to The 1990s brought the emergence “We change the beers anywhere from both warn you of the slightly sour taste of local breweries such as Yards three days to three weeks,” said Sean and mention that the beer also mixes Brewing Company (Philadelphia), McGuiness, a Resurrection Ale House well with Fruli Strawberry Wheat for a Flying Fish Brewing Company (Cherry bartender. nice summer sweet-and-sour taste. Hill), (Milton, A few blocks over at Ten Stone Bar Perhaps by extension, Philadelphians Del.), Troegs Brewery (Harrisburg) & Restaurant, located at 21st and South have developed into sophisticated beer and Victory Brewing Company streets, there’s a similar selection of drinkers. (Downingtown). Yards is particularly 14 beers on draught. Sure, you’ll find “When I first started writing Joe known for its Brawler, an English ale, Hoegarden, Stella Artois and Yuengling Sixpack in the mid-90s, my editors and Philadelphia Pale Ale, which was , but there’s also Palm Belgian were worried that the audience of named by The New York Times as one Amber, Port Brewing Company Shark knowledgeable craft beer drinkers of the best pale ales in the country. Attack, Great Divide Wild Raspberry would be quite small,” said Russell. Flying Fish produces a Belgian Abbey Ale and Petrus Oak Aged Ale. Nearby “In fact, I never had to dumb down Dubbel and several ales year-round, at The Pub and Kitchen, at 20th and my column because so many readers but it receives particular praise for its Lombard streets, the owners are fond were thirsty for something other than seasonals.  Dogfish Head boasts “off- of and heavily advertised mainstream beers. I centered” ales and experimental beer. Sixpoint Craft Ales, so the bar usually was writing about lambic, for example, You can find a stout, multiple ales, a features these beers among its nine on when you couldn’t even buy the stuff double bock and pilsners among the tap. Bar patrons sometimes take the in Philly. varied selection offered by Troegs, quality of available beer for granted “Still, I’m astounded at the level of which is technically based in Harrisburg to the point where good Belgian-style knowledge, especially among patrons. but only distributes to within three beers such as Allagash White are Go to Monk’s and just watch what hours driving distance of the brewery. considered almost commonplace. people order: incredibly exotic brews, Victory features more than 20 different Of course, it does no good for bars some of which even I haven’t tasted. I brands, including the HopDevil Ale and to serve the specialty beers if the don’t know if this is peculiar to Philly, Prima Pils. bartenders don’t know much about the but as I’ve frequently said, we’ll drink In 2001, the forerunner to what is beers to explain them to customers. anything.” now known as Philadelphia Brewing

the philadelphia lawyer Fall 2010 29 Company started brewing in the THE GROWTH OF PHILLY BEER Kensington section of the city. In WEEK addition to producing ales and Belgian- In 2008, Tom Peters, who co-owns style beers, Philadelphia Brewing several city bars including Monk’s Café; Company pays homage to the region, Bruce Nichols, who recently opened up with beer names such as Kenzinger, The HeadHouse; and Russell organized Newbold, Rowhouse Red, Fleur de the first Philly Beer Week. With modest Lehigh and, of course, Walt Wit. aims, the inaugural Beer Week proved These particular craft brewers all to be a major success, with more than produce varied styles of beer to appeal 300 events. Two years later, the 2010 to many tastes. edition featured about 1,000 events “Unlike the West Coast, which is throughout 150 different venues over -centric, there’s no particular style 10 days, becoming the largest national that’s prevalent in Philly,” said Russell. festival, in terms of number of events, “That’s one of the region’s assets: dedicated to craft beers. diversity. We have a strong Belgian Along with the Philly Craft Beer Of course, it presence, lots of British-style ales and Festival, which highlighted 120 beers does no good certainly a lot of German .” made by 50 brewers in its fourth year, As further testament to Russell’s Philly Beer Week has enabled the city for bars to serve point, it was difficult finding to become a destination for beer lovers consensus among local bartenders of from both the city and beyond. Out-of- the specialty what local craft beers were the most town visitors enjoying Philly Beer Week popular. Some claimed Flying Fish events in June included a professional beers if the Farmhouse Summer Ale and Yards beer brewer from Vancouver who was bartenders don’t Brawler were the best sellers. Others well aware of Philadelphia’s beer scene. pointed to Victory HopDevil or one of “I was surprised the first year – we know much the Dogfish Head IPAs. thought we’d have about 50 events and Supplementing these local craft we ended with 350,” said Russell. “I’m about the beers breweries are brewpubs – breweries no longer surprised; in fact, I see a lot that serve food and generate at least of room for growth. I don’t judge its to explain them 25 percent of their sales on site – that success by the number of events, but in to customers. further add to the depth of the beer the number of people who attend and scene. Among the local brewpubs of celebrate Philly beer.” Fortunately, note are Triumph Brewing Company, Other national beer festivals, Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant, including the Great American Beer as a whole, Nodding Head Brewery & Restaurant, Festival in Denver and the Oregon Manayunk Brewery & Restaurant and Brewers Festival, currently attract Philadelphia Sly Fox Brewhouse & Eatery. more estimated attendees than Philly bartenders Area bars recognize the importance Beer Week, drew an estimated 35,000 and popularity of local beers and people in 2009 – as of now. Given that serve craft do their part to promote them. For a the exponential growth of Philly Beer July drink special, University City Week’s events and popularity, that may beers don’t have newcomer City Tap House announced change. that problem. a Hundred-Mile Happy Hour. All “That’s what I want to build on,” said beers brewed within 100 miles of Russell. “It’s my aim to make Philly Philadelphia, which included a good Beer Week the best beer celebration in portion of the bar’s 60 draughts, were America, so that when people think of $2 off their normal price during happy beer, they think of Philly (and not just hour. for one week). Likewise, I want Philly Of course, the local craft beers are Beer Week to be the city’s largest event garnering national recognition as well. of the year – something that can rival Dogfish Head and Victory are each the Mummers and Welcome America widely available in more than 20 states. – so that when people think of Philly, And this fall, the Discovery Channel is they think of beer.” scheduled to premier its new series, “BREWED,” which will feature Sam John Encarnacion (encarnacionj@ Calagione, the owner of Dogfish Head whiteandwilliams.com) is an associate Brewery, and explore life inside the with White and Williams LLP. brewery.

30 the philadelphia lawyer Fall 2010 Where to Enjoy Craft Beer

The options of where to enjoy good craft beer seem Standard Tap almost as plentiful as the varieties of beer available in www.standardtap.com Philadelphia. Here are a few selected bars definitely 2nd and Poplar streets worth a visit. With 20 beers on tap, all from brewers from the local and surrounding area, there are some who consider gastro- pub Standard Tap to be the best bar in the city.

Varga Bar www.vargabar.com 10th and Spruce streets While turning only one year old this past July, Varga’s impressive beer list already draws crowds, particularly in good weather, when they can enjoy outdoor seating on two different sidewalks of the corner bar.

Tria www.triacafe.com 123 S. 18th St. & 1137 Spruce St. While known primarily as a wine bar, Tria has a sizable craft beer list for every palate, conveniently grouped into different lists to assist customers.

South Philly Tap Room www.southphiladelphiataproom.com 1509 Mifflin St. In addition to serving some surprisingly good food, including one of the best roast pork sandwiches in town, SPTR often features many limited production beers, Pub on Passyunk East such as Russian River Pliny the Elder. www.pubonpassyunkeast.com 1501 Passyunk Ave. In the up-and-coming Passyunk Avenue neighbor- hood, the P.O.P.E. is a mainstay, with many craft beers on draught, and about 80 high quality bottled beers.