The City of Brotherly Suds Philadelphia Stumps to Become the Nation’s Top Craft Beer Destination By John Encarnacion hen Frommer’s named Philadelphia among the world’sbestcitiesforbeerthispastJune,itmarked widespreadrecognitionofwhatmanyPhiladelphians Whavebeenawareofforthepastfewyears.Philadelphia–andthe surroundingregion–isagreatplaceforthosewholikegoodbeer. Some may find it surprising that Philadelphia was THE RISE OF NEIGHBORHOOd BARS recognized by Frommer’s as one of only three U.S. cities, Itallstartswithbars. Ifyouwanttodrinkgoodbeerbeyond along with Milwaukee and Portland, Ore., out of the 14 “TV”beer,you’reprobablygoingtoneedtofindabarthat worldwide. Survey the region, however, and you will find servesit.GivenPennsylvania’scurrentlyrestrictivebeerlaws, excellent local beers as well as an expanding array of bars it’sachallengetofindspecialtybeersinstores,particularlyif andrestaurantsspecializinginservinggoodbeer(read:NOT youdon’twanttoshelloutforfullcases. MillerLite,BudweiserorCoorsLight). Thecityismorethan Fortunately, Philadelphia has featured excellent beer bars worthytobenamedalongsideothernotablebeercitiessuchas formanyyears.It’sthesebars,asmuchasormorethanany Dublin,MunichandBrussels. otherfactor,thathavehelpedthecity’srisetobeerprominence. Inparticular,thecraftbeerscenehassignificantlyriseninto “Thiscityhasalwayshadatonofverygoodneighborhood prominence.TheBrewersAssociationdefinesacraftbeerasa bars–farmore,obviously,thanbrewers,”saidDonRussell, beerbrewedwithanannualproductionoflessthantwomillion whowritesthe“JoeSixpack”beercolumnforthePhiladelphia barrels, with less than 25 percent of Daily News. “Before there were craft thebreweryownedorcontrolledbyan brewersinPhilly,therewereverygood alcoholic beverage industry member beerbars–notably,theKhyber,which whoisnotthemselvesacraftbrewer. “One of the reasons hasbeenagreatbeerdestinationsince Craftbeers,whichcurrentlymakeup the1970s.I’vemadethepointbefore aboutsevenpercentofthevolumeof Philadelphia is such thatmanylocalbrewers,infact,were beersoldinthecountry,aremadewith a great beer city is inspiredbythegreatbeerstheywere traditionalingredients,suchasmalted drinkinginPhillybars.It’soneofthe barley, and tend to be distinctive and that in any of our reasonsthateverylocalbrewermakes flavorful rather than simply catering at least one Belgian-style ale – they to mass appeal. Because of added craft beer bars, you first tasted the style in places like flavor, craft beers tend to be a little Bridgid’sorCopaToo.” moreexpensivethanyourrun-of-the- will find bartenders What has occurred in the past few mill commercial beer. Still, growing who are extremely years is a dramatic increase in the numbers of craft beer drinkers don’t number of neighborhood spots that seemtomindpayingaslightpremium knowledgeable.” specializeinservinggoodbeers.Much fortastierbeer. of the credit should probably go to Whether it is locally brewed Monk’s Café, which was opened in products or domestic beers that have Center City on South 16th Street in garnerednationalandworldwiderecognitionbeingavailable 1985. Before it started winning acclaim such as one of the in the area, the Philadelphia craft beer scene is vibrant and “Top10PlacesintheWORLDtoHaveABeerBeforeYou deservingofacclaim.AnnualeventssuchasthePhillyCraft Die”inAll About Beer magazine,Monk’sisbelievedtobe Beer Festival and Philly Beer Week have helped solidify thefirstbarinthecountrytohaveBelgianbeeravailableon Philadelphia’sreputation,echoedbyBeerWeek’stagline,as tap,whichledtotheriseofthepopularityofBelgianbeerin “America’sBestBeer-DrinkingCity.” thecity. Byextension,craftbrewersproducedBelgian-style SohowdidPhiladelphiareachthisstatus? Howdidacity, beersandotherdistinctproductsthatsoonmadetheirwayto whoselastmajorbrewery,Schmidt’s,shutdownin1987,rise thecity’sbars.Overtime,sportsbars,Irishbarsandevendive into prominence in the beer-drinking world? The answer barsbeganservingcraftbeers,inadditiontotheusualfareof is a combination of factors: good beer bars popping up in commercialbeers. virtuallyeveryneighborhood,localcraftbrewersdeveloping Specifically, though, gastropubs – which serve high- innovativebeersandPhillyBeerWeekgrowing,innumbers qualityfoodinadditiontogoodbeer–andbarsspecializing ofeventsandvenues,tobecomingthelargestfestivalofits inservingcraftbeershavegrownwidespreadinmuchofthe kinddevotedtocraftbeers. city. WalkintoResurrectionAleHouse,locatedacrossfrom 28 the philadelphia lawyer Fall 2010 Naval Square at Grays Ferry Avenue Fortunately, as a whole, Philadelphia THE dEVELOPMENT OF THE andCatharineStreet,andyouwillfind bartenders that serve craft beers don’t LOCAL CRAFT BEERS a place that probably would not have havethatproblem. As of the time of its 100th year of existed even five years ago. Opened “One of the reasons Philadelphia is brewing beer in 1960, Schmidt’s was in fall 2009, this small, split-level suchagreatbeercityisthatinanyofour brewingmorethan2.2millionbarrels, bar hardly falls into the conception craftbeerbars,youwillfindbartenders thevastmajorityofwhichweresoldin of a traditional neighborhood bar. In who are extremely knowledgeable Philadelphia.WhenSchmidt’sclosedin addition to an extensive bottled beer andenthusiasticaboutthebeersbeing 1987,onlyafewareabreweries,such list,itfeatures13beersontap–allof offeredattheirbarsandveryeagerto asYuenglinginPottsville,wereleft. whicharecraftbeers.Don’tgolooking discuss them with their customers,” Fortunately, on the heels of for Bud Light or even Rolling Rock. said Rob Jones, a Resurrection Ale Schmidt’s closing its doors in 1987, Instead,thedraughtlistfeatureshighly Housepatron. Ed and Carol Stoudt opened the rated beers, such as Russian River Ask a bartender atTen Stone about state’s first microbrewery, Stoudt’s Consecration, Lost Abbey Judgment whataparticularVictoryBrewingbeer Brewing Company, in Adamstown, AleandGreatDivideYeti.Payanother islike,andhe’lltellyouaboutitstaste LancasterCounty.Stoudt’sspecializes visit a few weeks later, and chances and that it’s slightly stronger at eight inGerman-styleaswellasEnglishand are,therewillbeacompletelydifferent percentalcohol.OrderaDogfishHead Americanales. selectionofqualitybrews. Festina Peche, and he’ll make sure to The 1990s brought the emergence “Wechangethebeersanywherefrom bothwarnyouoftheslightlysourtaste of local breweries such as Yards three days to three weeks,” said Sean and mention that the beer also mixes Brewing Company (Philadelphia), McGuiness,aResurrectionAleHouse wellwithFruliStrawberryWheatfora FlyingFishBrewingCompany(Cherry bartender. nicesummersweet-and-sourtaste. Hill), Dogfish Head Brewery (Milton, AfewblocksoveratTenStoneBar Perhapsbyextension,Philadelphians Del.), Troegs Brewery (Harrisburg) &Restaurant,locatedat21standSouth havedevelopedintosophisticatedbeer and Victory Brewing Company streets, there’s a similar selection of drinkers. (Downingtown). Yards is particularly 14beersondraught.Sure,you’llfind “When I first started writing Joe knownforitsBrawler,anEnglishale, Hoegarden,StellaArtoisandYuengling Sixpack in the mid-90s, my editors and Philadelphia PaleAle, which was Lager, but there’s also Palm Belgian were worried that the audience of namedbyThe New York Timesasone Amber,PortBrewingCompanyShark knowledgeable craft beer drinkers of the best pale ales in the country. Attack, Great Divide Wild Raspberry would be quite small,” said Russell. FlyingFishproducesaBelgianAbbey AleandPetrusOakAgedAle.Nearby “In fact, I never had to dumb down Dubbel and several ales year-round, at The Pub and Kitchen, at 20th and my column because so many readers but it receives particular praise for its Lombard streets, the owners are fond were thirsty for something other than seasonals. Dogfish Head boasts “off- of Founders Brewing Company and heavilyadvertisedmainstreambeers.I centered” ales and experimental beer. SixpointCraftAles,sothebarusually waswritingaboutlambic,forexample, You can find a stout, multiple ales, a featuresthesebeersamongitsnineon when you couldn’t even buy the stuff double bock and pilsners among the tap. Bar patrons sometimes take the inPhilly. varied selection offered by Troegs, quality of available beer for granted “Still, I’m astounded at the level of whichistechnicallybasedinHarrisburg to the point where good Belgian-style knowledge, especially among patrons. but only distributes to within three beers such as Allagash White are Go to Monk’s and just watch what hoursdrivingdistanceofthebrewery. consideredalmostcommonplace. people order: incredibly exotic brews, Victoryfeaturesmorethan20different Of course, it does no good for bars someofwhichevenIhaven’ttasted. I brands,includingtheHopDevilAleand to serve the specialty beers if the don’tknowifthisispeculiartoPhilly, PrimaPils. bartendersdon’tknowmuchaboutthe butasI’vefrequentlysaid,we’lldrink In 2001, the forerunner to what is beers to explain them to customers. anything.” now known as Philadelphia Brewing the philadelphia lawyer Fall 2010 29 Company started brewing in the THE GROWTH OF PHILLY BEER Kensington section of the city. In WEEk additiontoproducingalesandBelgian- In 2008, Tom Peters, who co-owns style beers, Philadelphia Brewing severalcitybarsincludingMonk’sCafé; Companypayshomagetotheregion, BruceNichols,whorecentlyopenedup with beer names such as Kenzinger, TheHeadHouse;andRussellorganized Newbold, Rowhouse Red, Fleur de thefirstPhillyBeerWeek.Withmodest Lehighand,ofcourse,WaltWit. aims,theinauguralBeerWeekproved These particular craft brewers all tobeamajorsuccess,withmorethan producevariedstylesofbeertoappeal 300