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The magazine

June 2004 issue is generously sponsored

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JUNE 2004 VOl. 3, NO. 9

State Parks Idaho’s Most Beautiful, Fascinating, and Popular Rock Slides Moving Mountains Blackfoot Spotlight City

$3.50 USA Tying Fly Handmade hats—custom built one at a time.

Idaho Artists Bret and Linda Botcke Priest Hat Company • Eagle, Idaho

FEATURES

14

PRIEST Idaho State Parks 14 LAKE p. 26 Idaho may have been a late bloomer when the first designation was granted to Heyburn State Park by Congress in 1908, but since then it’s done a lot of catching up. Check out our sum- STATE PARK p. 14 mer roundup of Idaho’s most beautiful, fascinating, and popular. By Jennifer Couture p. 14 CATALDO Blackfoot—Spotlight City p. 4 32 HEYBURN From the world’s largest potato chip to some of the best outdoor opportunities in the state, STATE PARK p. 14 Blackfoot has long outgrown its notoriety as home to the Idaho’s leading mental hospital. Find out what “going to Blackfoot” means today. LEWISTON By Arthur Hart & Janet Marugg p. 64 WINCHESTER STATE PARK p. 14 Rock Slides 50 HELLS Ever watch a river of rock take out the highway in front of you? Jerry Foster fills us in CANYON on his harrowing childhood encouner with a rock slide on one of Idaho’s most p. 42 notorious roads. Learn more about this all-too-common natural disaster. By Jerry Foster p. 14 BIG CREEK LAND OF THE Summer is at last upon us and it couldn’t have waited anoth- STATE PARK p. 46 YANKEE FORK HARRIMAN p. 14 STATE PARK p. 14 STATE PARK er moment. We hope you planted your tomatoes on time. BANKS p. 14 p. 50 STANLEY We’re thrilled to have the work of Jerry Foster back in LOWMAN p. 23 EMMETT p. 50 the magazine (Rock Slides, pg. 50). Frequent readers may p. 13 remember his excellent piece on fire lookouts in our July CALDWELL BOISE 2003 issue. This month’s piece has all the same charm p. 9 p. 23, 29, 56 Blackfoot and twice the drama. Welcome back. p. 32 BRUNEAU DUNES The deadline for the 2004 IDAHO magazine Cover STATE PARK TWIN p. 14 FALLS Photo Contest is fast approaching, so don’t forget to get your p. 20 CASTLE ROCKS brilliant photos to us postmarked by July 31st. Contest rules STATE PARK p. 14 can be found on the inside of the back cover. departments

JUNE 2004 VOl. 3, NO. 9

Publisher & Editor Kitty Delorey Fleischman

Art Director Ann Hottinger Managing Editor Adam Park Advertising Manager Karen Scheider Circulation Director Elliott Martin Copy Editor Betsy Hall 23 Business Manager Marcy Myers northern exposure 4 Illustrator Dick Lee Cataldo Mission Contributors fiction contest 9 Marylyn Cork Incident at Morgan Creek Jennifer Couture free range verse 13 John Davidson Pitch-Forked Boots Jerry Foster one spud short Donna Geisler 20 Arthur Hart The Mystery of the Missing Cat Cecil Hicks fun & games 23 Bobbie Hunter Motorcycling With Compassion Kay Kelley art attack 26 Dennis Lopez The Magnificent Quilting Janet Marugg Barbara Michener Ladies of Priest Lake William Studebaker science & technology 29 Les Tanner The Birth of a R.A.T. power brokers 42 Logo Design Dam Building in Hells Canyon J Ernest Monroe front porch tales 46 Big Creek Birthday IDAHO magazine considers unsolicited manu- scripts, fiction, nonfiction, and letters for publica- who we are 56 tion. Editorial submissions should be sent to: Brunswick Migration IDAHO magazine historical snapshot 64 4301 W Franklin Rd. • Boise, ID 83705 The Mud Wagon [email protected] (208)336-0653 or (800)655-0653 idaho extras: 61-63 Service Directory; Idaho Links; Idaho News; Unsolicited manuscripts will not be returned unless Calendar of Events; and Sales Locations accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Do not e-mail complete manuscripts. cover photo: IDAHO magazine is published by IDAHO magazine, Inc., Angler tying on a fly on the South Fork of the Boise River a corporation in the state of Idaho, owned by Idahoans. The contents of IDAHO magazine are copyrighted and William H. Mullins all rights are reserved. Material cannot be photocopied, reprinted or reused in any form without the written consent of the publisher. northern exposure

The Cataldo Mission Idaho’s Oldest Standing Building

By Cecil Hicks

igh on a knoll overlooking the HCoeur d’Alene River in North Idaho is the oldest standing building in Idaho, the Cataldo Mission. Built during the late 1840s and early 1850s by a combined con- struction effort of Catholic Jesuit Priests (known as Black Robes) and a band of Coeur d’Alene Indians, this large church symbolizes the historical religious connec- tion between two different cultures. Jesuit priests first came to the Northwest at the request of the Flathead Indians in . The priests, under the supervision of Father DeSmet, soon built a mission church in the Bitterroot Valley. In the 1840s, the Jesuits came to Idaho and a church was constructed on the banks of the St. Joe River, near present day St. Maries. However, annual spring flooding forced this church to be abandoned. A relocation site was selected some thirty miles to the north. This time the mission was built on a hilltop well above the flood plain. Many of the Coeur d’Alene tribe mem- bers during this era embraced Catholicism, PHOTO partly due to a tribal legend. This legend told COURTESY RIGHT: The Cataldo Mission—Idaho’s

oldest standing building. OF

OPPOSITE: An Idaho State Park employee, CECIL

dressed as a black robed Jesuit Priest, HICKS tells visitors how the mission was built.

4 IDAHO MAGAZINE northern exposure

of an old Indian chief named Circling Raven, who had a vision that men wear- ing black robes would some day bring a great spiritual truth to his people. Using primitive carpentry tools (broad axe, auger, drill, ropes, and pulleys) and building materials from the sur- rounding mountains and forests, not a single nail was used in the mission’s con- struction. Instead the builders drilled holes with hand drills and drove in pegs. The foot-thick walls were made from grass and mud interwoven and draped over poles that had been inserted into drilled holes in the huge square beams. When the church was completed in 1853, it measured ninety feet long, forty feet wide, and forty feet from floor to HICKS CECIL the huckleberry blue paneled ceiling. OF The mission was designed by the Italian

native Father Ravalli, who modeled it COURTESY PHOTO Built during the late 1840s and early 1850s by a combined construction effort of Catholic Jesuit Priests (known as Black Robes) and a band of Coeur d’Alene Indians, this large church symbolizes the historical reli- gious connection between two different cultures. northern exposure

ABOVE LEFT: A historical scale replica The next time you’re in North Idaho displaying Coeur d’Alene Indians attending a mass inside the church. driving down Interstate 90, don’t ABOVE RIGHT: A state park employee answers questions from a group of pass up an opportunity to visit visiting students. the .

after the Greek revival architecture mission grounds, opened up a way few miles west of Kellogg. The park style used in religious structures for settlers and miners to travel to is open to the public daily and fea- throughout Europe. Coeur d’Alene. With the discovery tures a picnic area, an interpretive The priests named their new of gold and later silver, an influx of museum, and visitors’ center with a structure the Sacred Heart Mission people arrived and changed the life small gift shop. A visit to the and the Indians called it the House and culture of the tribe forever. museum isn’t complete unless you of the Great Spirit. Settlers later In 1887 Congress created a take the opportunity to see a half- renamed it the Cataldo Mission, new, smaller reservation for the hour historical video on the Coeur after a Catholic priest named Coeur d’Alene Indians, forcing them d’Alene Indian tribe and the Old Father Cataldo who took up resi- to relocate some sixty miles to the Mission Church. dence at the site. west. To the tribe’s dismay, the The next time you’re in North Unfortunately for the Coeur Sacred Heart Mission that they had Idaho driving down Interstate 90, d’Alene Indians, shortly after the labored so long to build was no lon- don’t pass up an opportunity to visit church was finished the U.S. Army, ger inside the reservation boundar- the Old Mission State Park. It’s well under the supervision of Captain ies. A new Catholic mission was worth a stop. Learn a little about John Mullan, began building a then built at DeSmet. Idaho’s past and reflect on the work primitive road that ran from Fort The Cataldo Mission is now that went into building the House Benton, in Montana, to Fort Walla part of the Idaho State Park System of the Great Spirit—Idaho's oldest Walla on the Columbia River in and is called the Old Mission State standing building. . This 640-mile military Park. It is located some twenty-four road, which ran right in front of the miles east of Coeur d’Alene and a Cecil Hicks lives in Sandpoint.

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Please visit us online at www.idahomagazine.net 336-0653 800-655-0653 Call for gift information or multiple subscriptions. Send Subscription to: Name Address City State Zip Phone ( ) Gift From: Name Address City State Zip Please Phone ( )  One-year subscription: $29.95 + 6% Idaho sales tax = $31.75 copy the  Two-year subscription: $27.00 per year + 6% Idaho sales tax = $57.24 Credit Card # Expires subscription Cardholder’s Name Address City State Zip form! Phone ( ) Thank you for your subscription! Mail to: 4301 W. Franklin Rd., Boise, ID 83705 Hungering for a Looking for a great gift great Idaho read? for that someone special? These are some titles by our friends and your neighbors Need a promotional gift that will definitely satisfy. for a client? We've got The Bluebird Will Sing Tomorrow you covered! by Kitty Delorey Fleischman Delve into the life story of Velma V. Morrison, well known patron of the arts, philanthropist, and one of the most influential women in the state of Idaho. paperback: $20 Ts with your favorite BOOKS ABOUT IDAHO BY ARTHUR A. HART IDAHO magazine cover! 100% cotton white, ash or natural sizes S-6XL Barns of Life in Wings Over Idaho: the West Old Boise an Aviation History Mix and match $29.95 $27.50 $22.95 IDAHO magazine mugs! We can add your personalized message or business contact information on the reverse side. Chinatown: Boise, Camera Eye on Idaho: $15 each includes s + h, no limits on quantity, discounts on 12+ Idaho, 1870-1970 Pioneer Photography $24.95 $24.95 Arthur A. Hart is Director Emeritus of the Idaho State Historical Society. He has received many awards for his work in history and historic preservation. He is a regular contributor to IDAHO magazine.

A Halcyon Revolution Now only $3.50! by Will Edwinson Don't forget about Fiction-What would life be like if there were a our back issues sale. 21st century-style revolution and war in the U.S.? Usually $5.00 ea. If you're a Tom Clancy fan, odds are you will enjoy this story spiced with science fiction, romance and much political intrigue. paperback: $14.95 Rodeo Idaho by Louise Shadduck Buddy, His Trials and Treasures The lives and legends of Idaho's rodeo past are chronicled in Will Edwinson is considering creating a Rodeo Idaho, the latest book from Idaho historian Louise book containing his fiction series Buddy, His Shadduck of Coeur d'Alene. She combed newspapers, films, Trials and Treasures. If you are interested magazines, letters, and books, then conducted more than 100 give us a call or email interviews in her search for the roots of rodeo in Idaho, her [email protected]. native state. paperback: $28.50 For the details on any product listed on this page please call 336-0653 or 800-655-0653! 8 IDAHO MAGAZINE Incident at Morgan Creek Adult Division, First Place

By Les Tanner

From the Custer County Weekly were rather short, but they were father had moved to Idaho from Nugget, July 23, 2003: strong and a little bowed, possibly that summer; Mr. from having to support the rest of Pettigrew had taken a job in the Wilbur M. Pettigrew, longtime res- the state for so long. mines at Cobalt. Will was living in ident of Challis, died at home this He’d been bald since his early a small boarding house in Challis Monday past, at the ripe old age of 97. thirties, but whenever the subject so that he could attend school. Mr. Pettigrew, librarian at the Challis came up, Will merely smiled, explain- Will was the “new kid in town,” library from 1927-1981, was preceded ing that the Lord liked his face so so on the first day of class, he was the in death by Maggie, his beloved wife of much He was clearing a spot on top object of considerable attention. 66 years. The Spangler Funeral Home for another one. Being chubby and short didn’t help in Salmon is in charge of arrangements. Will’s eyes were his most strik- him at all, nor did the bright red ing feature: the right one was green lunch pail with his initials embla- veryone in Challis called them and the left blue. zoned on it in big white letters. In E“The Twins,” but that was just a On the other hand, Kent fact, the very first thing that anyone bit of innocuous small-town humor Evans fit the description of Will’s said to him was, “Hey, kid, does that everyone enjoyed, including The forebears to a “T.” Twelve inches WMP stand for Wimpy?” Twins themselves. They were as taller than Will, he could easily But that was the last of unlike as two men could possibly be. have been the leading man in a the teasing, because the next The gene pool from which Hollywood western. He was the person to speak to Will was Will Pettigrew derived had, for picture of good health, hand- Kent, by far the most popular many generations, produced tall, some and muscular, with boy in the sixth grade, if not broad-shouldered, thin-waisted piercing brown eyes, the the whole school. men. That pool seems to have gone weather-beaten complexion of “What’s your handle?” temporarily dry about the time that an outdoorsman, and a full he asked. “Mine’s Kent. he came along, however. head of wavy black hair. From C’mon in and sit down.” He In profile, Will looked very the time he was twelve, Kent motioned to an empty desk much like the state in which he lived, had turned the head of every beside him. at least between chin and hips. His girl and woman he’d ever Will’s size and shape long, thin neck rested on a some- encountered. were of no concern to Kent, what thicker chest, which rested atop They’d met in the fall a very healthy mid-section. His legs of 1917. Will and his ILLUSTRATION BY DICK LEE

JUNE 2004 9 four years. As a senior, he was elect- twenty-four hours, the fire expanded ed president of the student body. to five thousand acres. And, of course, he was Homecoming On the afternoon of the 19th, nor were the oddly colored eyes. King. Twice. two dusty station wagons came racing That’s the way Kent was, as a boy and Naturally, girls flocked around into town and skidded to a halt in later as a man. He had the rare gift of him. Much to everyone’s surprise, front of the Sheriff ’s office. seeing what was inside a person. however, he chose the timid Ruth A man jumped out of the first The two boys became chums Barton to be his “steady,” and the day car just as Kent came out the front almost immediately. At first, it was after commencement, they eloped. door. He could see the fright in the hero worship on Will’s part. Kent, In August, Kent and Ruth man’s face and the stricken looks of on the other hand, saw Will as a moved down to Pocatello, where the others in the vehicles. lonely boy in need of a friend. But Kent spent four years at the college “What’s wrong?” he asked. “Has as the years went on, the friendship there, playing basketball and football, there been an accident?” deepened. Will had a wonderfully and earning a business degree. In “It’s our boy,” the man said A man jumped out of the first car just as Kent came out the front door. He could see the fright in the man’s face and the stricken looks of the others in the vehicles.

subtle sense of humor, and Kent, 1928, the Evans family, which now breathlessly. “He’s lost up by that fire.” forever serious, needed the comic included two daughters, moved back Kent started to say something but the relief that Will always supplied at to Challis. Kent got a job as deputy man rushed on. just the right time. Kent was strong, and, in 1934, was elected Sheriff. “We’ve been camping up on both physically and emotionally, and During those same four years, Morgan Creek, but a ranger came by provided the support that Will Will had been working at various this morning and told us we had to required far more than once. part-time clerking jobs in Challis. leave, so we gathered up everything Will was quiet and intelligent, Then, at the advanced age of twen- and took off. When we got down to interested in everything that went on ty-one, he was hired to establish a the highway, we discovered that about him. Except for the time he library in town. Without Kent to Donnie—that’s our boy—wasn’t spent with Kent working on high pal around with, Will spent virtu- there. We thought he was in their car,” school homework together or out on ally all of his spare time exploring he pointed at the other vehicle, “and a camping and fishing trip, Will was a the nearly limitless lands that sur- they thought he was with us. We loner. Horribly shy around girls, he rounded Challis. Before long he drove back, but the ranger had the didn’t have a date until he was twen- knew as much about that country road blocked. He said the fire had ty-one. He was over thirty when he as anyone in the state. crossed the ridge and he couldn’t let met and married Margaret Thomas, The fire began on August 1, anybody in. We pleaded with him, the only woman he ever dated twice. 1950, when lightning hit a dead pine but he said it was too dangerous. He Kent became even more outgo- near the headwaters of Camas radioed for help, and said someone ing and friendly as time went by. He Creek. It had been smoldering for would be on the way pretty soon. But was Challis High’s champion athlete, two weeks when a front blew in Donnie’s in there and...” competing in four sports each of his from the northwest, and within “I heard the call,” said Kent, try-

10 IDAHO MAGAZINE ing to speak calmly. “They’ll get your boy out of there, I’m sure.” But he wasn’t sure at all. That was rugged country, and virtually every male in the county who could wield an axe or a shovel was on the fire lines. In fact, he and Will were the only able-bodied men left in Challis. “We can take a stab at it, Kent. I know Morgan Creek like the back of my hand.” Kent turned to see Will, who had come over to see what was going on. 12–10” x 13” animal prints on cream-colored cardstock: “I’m sure Charley’ll let us past the roadblock,” Will Bear with Cubs • Bow Hunter with • Bulldog continued. “I’ve got the Jeep gassed up, and I’ve always got Chow Puppies • Fox • Great Dane • Heron • Poodle Ram • St. Bernard • Squirrel • Wolf survival gear in there, you know.” Thirty minutes later, they were bouncing up Morgan Creek Road much faster than either had ever driven it Prints $15 each + S & H dick *Lee Set of 12 $ 150 illustration before. Time was critical; Charley had told them the wind 802 No. Garden had changed directions and the fire was heading toward Boise, Idaho 83706 the area where the campers had been. (208) 342-5578 During the whole ride, Kent hadn’t said a word, but Will understood. Only he and a handful of others had any idea that Kent, everyone’s model of the heroic male, was absolutely terrified of fire. Will had learned about it once when he and Kent had gone swimming. Kent’s back was covered with scars, and when Will asked about them, Kent gave up his secret. When he was three years old, a playmate had pushed him into a bonfire. Since then, Kent had avoided open fires at all costs. Even the candles on a birthday cake were enough to bring his phobia to the surface. Will was astounded by the courage that Kent dis- played in agreeing to be part of the search. They could see flames no more than a mile away when they reached the campsite the man had described. And miracle of miracles, there, sitting on a log as though nothing were amiss, was a small boy. “Hi,” he said as Will and Kent ran over to him. “Have you

ILLUSTRATION BY DICK LEE

JUNE 2004 11 For an instant, the two men nearly a hundred feet high now, and locked eyes, and Will saw the inde- at its base is a brass plaque which scribable terror on his friend’s face. reads simply: “In Memory of Kenton seen my mommy and daddy?” “I’ve got to get out of here!” Kent Robert Evans, 1906-1950.” The tree “We sure have,” said Will. shouted hysterically. “The fire! Look was planted as a tiny sapling by “They’re down in Challis just waiting at the fire! It’s going to get me!” Donnie’s parents the spring following for us to bring you back.” Those were the last words Will the fire, and the plaque was donated Donnie took Will’s hand, and in was ever to hear from Kent, for as he by the city of Challis. less than a minute the Jeep and its said them, Kent jammed the car into Kent’s body was found the three passengers were on the road gear. The jackrabbit start knocked morning following the fire by the and headed for town. Will and the boy to the ground, and crew searching for him and Will and And that’s when their luck the Jeep roared off into the smoke. the boy. Two miles below the last ran out. The fire was almost upon them burnt trees, the car had missed a The wind stiffened suddenly and when Will stumbled into the creek. curve and hit a huge rock, killing the fire began racing toward them He couldn’t see where he was going, Kent instantly. almost faster than they could drive. but he splashed on, tripping and According to the story Will was The smoke became so dense that almost falling twice. Then, over the to tell ever afterwards, Kent had con- Will could no longer see. He braked sound of the oncoming fire, he heard vinced him to take Donnie into the to a halt, in spite of the fact that the the waterfall. He carried Donnie safety of the cave while Kent drove fire might be on them in minutes. through the cold curtain of water, into town for help. Will carried the He could sense the panic rising and together they tumbled onto the truth to the grave with him. in Kent, who was doing his best to damp moss on the floor of the shal- Of course, there was a second hold it in for the boy’s sake but Will low depression. witness who could have told what knew Kent might lose it completely Five seconds later, the fire roared really happened that tragic at any moment. across the creek and up the north side August afternoon. The smoke cleared briefly and of the canyon. But nobody ever asked me. Will recognized the spot. He and In the tiny park that sits at the Kent had come across it years before intersection of Main Street with U.S. Les Tanner lives in Caldwell. on one of their fishing trips. Highway 93 is a ponderosa pine. It’s “Quick,” he said. “The cave behind the waterfall. We’ll be safe there.” He jumped out, dragging Donnie with him, but they’d gone just a few yards when Will real- ized that Kent was not behind them. He didn’t want to leave the boy, so he picked Donnie up and rushed back to the Jeep. Kent had just started the motor when Will yanked open the passenger’s door. ILLUSTRATION BY DICK LEE

12 IDAHO MAGAZINE free range verse

The Pitch-Forked Boots

Today was my weddin’ day, and my hubby soon to be, lose the fight! Had promised he’d love, honor, and cherish only me. The panicked animals knocked him down and But was he talkin’ true? ’Cause there at the altar that’s when he hit his head, I stood all alone, Then findin’ him pale and very still, the firemen took Just waitin’ for an explanation via his fancy mobile phone. him for dead!

And when it came I heard his voice there on the other end, A lot of work went into the rescue to free him He asked for understandin,’ hopin’ sympathy I’d lend. from that floor. Between his sobbin’ and the wail of sirens I heard They noticed all that kept him trapped was the these woeful words, pitch-forked boots he wore. The saddest string of events I’d almost ever heard! They asked him why he kept them on instead of pullin’ them off, Real early in the mornin’ on this very special day, And this is what he said ’tween gaspin’ for air mid-cough: He started on the chores with a pitchfork for the hay. But in the dark, to his dismay, he stabbed his boots “A cowboy always wears his boots—it’s a to the floor! matter of great pride. And there he was, nailed to the spot, some twenty Had I to be without ’em, ’twould have been feet from the door. better had I died!”

With no one near he tried to solve the problem unassisted, The weddin’ is off ’cause now I know exactly Then in walked trouble with rolled up sleeves, and set to where I stand. work double-fisted! And he can keep his bachelor Because it was dark and he couldn’t see, he struck a status and his golden wooden match. weddin’ band, But burnin’ his fingers he dropped it on a nest of eggs ’Cause it’s real clear, to me at set to hatch… least, if ever he has to choose, ’Tween me and pair of cowboy Which then caught fire and spread very fast to engulf boots—I’ll be the whole durn barn, t h e one to lose! And worried perhaps the flames would grow to consume the entire farm! The animals quickly scattered seeking safety out of doors, Bobby Hunter But my intended could not move, bein’ fastened to the floor!

He called for help from 911 and told them of his plight. Bobby Hunter lives Without their aid my hapless cowboy would surely in Emmett. ILLUSTRATION BY DICK LEE

JUNE 2004 13 By Jennifer Couture Idaho may have been a late bloomer when the first state park designation was granted to by the U.S. Congress in 1908. However, once begun, the process has provided for the growth and creation, enhancement, and safeguard of the natural beauty and wonders of Idaho. Today thirty parks populate the state system. Each Idaho state park has its own unique and individu- al character. Just a sample of the parks that accommodate camping and are among the most beauti- ful, fascinating, and popu- Ponderosa State Park is located just outside of the city of McCall. The park covers most of a thousand-acre peninsula that lar within the state park juts into Payette Lake. Nature trails and dirt roads have been - system are Ponderosa, developed for visitors’ enjoyment. Within the park are arid sage Castle Rocks, Farragut, brush flats, lakeside trails, flat, even ground and steep cliffs, dense Harriman, Priest Lake, Lake forest and spongy marshland. Camping is available in the park.

& RECREATION Cascade, Land of the The park’s namesake, the 150-foot Ponderosa pine, is the most noticeable species of tree. Douglas and grand fir, lodgepole PARKS Yankee Fork, Bruneau OF Dunes, Heyburn, and pine, and western larch also grow within the park. Birds often sighted include osprey, red-tailed hawks, bald eagles, Canada Winchester Lake. geese, wood ducks, and mallards, along with a variety of song-

DEPARTMENT Visiting these parks will birds, woodpeckers, hummingbirds, and ravens. Visitors often yield more than a camping spot deer, red fox, beavers, muskrats, and bear. The park is rich in IDAHO experience, they will reveal wildflowers, especially along the interpretive trail that winds THE

OF around Meadow Marsh. The campsites fill quickly in the warm- many surprising wonders, - including a four hundred- er months—May through September—so advanced reserva tions are advised. COURTESY year-old tree, sand dunes, Call the park at (208) 634-2164. Directions: Take State ten of idaho's most beautiful, ghost towns, archaeological Highway 55 to McCall; 2 miles northeast of McCall. PHOTOS sites, and much, much more. fascinating, and popular Farragut State Park sits at the foot of the Coeur d’Alene Mountains in the Bitterroot Range. This four-season park offers scenic mountains, pristine forests, abundant wildlife, and the crystal clear, azure waters of Idaho’s largest lake, . Lake Pend Oreille is 1,150-foot deep and offers trophy Idaho’s newest state park features giant granite spires known fishing, sailing, swimming, and wide-open water-skiing. collectively as Castle Rocks. Congress authorized the National Park The park provides groomed cross-country ski trails in the Service to purchase Castle Rock Ranch in November 2000. The winter, miles of walking trails along the rocky lakeshore, and the ranch and its access to the geological area is now under the direction opportunity to view the elusive snow-white mountain goat. An of Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation partnering with the amphitheater and spacious group-activity facilities can accommo- Federal Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service to date large or small outdoor gatherings. Group campsites and manage recreation use in all of Castle Rocks. day-use shelters can be reserved eleven months in advance. The 1,240-acre ranch includes examples of early 20th Century The scenic forest of lodgepole pine, Ponderosa pine, white ranch buildings, irrigated pasture, and striking scenery. Some spires pine, Douglas fir, poplar, western larch, and grand fir provides a rival nearby City of Rocks National Reserve and offer exceptional well-rounded habitat for whitetail deer, squirrels, black bears, rock climbing. Other recreational opportunities include picnicking, coyotes, and bobcats. Common birds include owls, humming- hiking, equestrian trails, and wildlife viewing. Mule deer, mountain birds, hawks, woodpeckers, ducks, and Idaho’s state bird, the lion, bighorn sheep, and the state’s first record of ringtail can be found mountain bluebird. The lake provides rainbow trout, lake trout, here. Bird watching is superb, with nesting populations of common snipe, sandhill crane, and sage grouse frequently encountered. perch, crappie, bass, and whitefish. Portions of the park are included in the City of Rocks National In 1942 the U.S. Navy built the second-largest naval train- Historic Landmark. Primitive camping is available nearby in the ing center in the world on this site. The park has many exhibits City of Rocks National Reserve. about Farragut’s role in World War II and other topics. Call the park at (208) 824-5519. Directions: Fifty miles south For camping, there is RV, tent sites, or cabins for rent at of Burley on routes 27 and 77 to Oakley and Almo, two miles north Farragut. Individual site reservations are available up to 90 days of Almo on the Elba-Almo Road, then west 1.4 miles on 2800 in advance of your arrival date. South (Big Cove Ranch Rd). Call the park at (208) 683-2425. Directions: Four miles east of Athol on State Highway 54, near Bayview.

ten of idaho's most beautiful, fascinating, and popular Harriman State Park lies in the heart of a six- teen thousand-acre wildlife reserve in the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem. This sanctuary protects a is about 2,400 feet above sea diversity of birds and mammals similar to those living in nearby level, and has an abundance of beautiful scenery and rec- Yellowstone National Park and is recognized for its world-class reational opportunities. Visitors will enjoy the dense fly-fishing opportunities. cedar-hemlock forests and the wildlife, such as whitetail In 1902, officials of the Oregon Short Line Railroad and deer, black bear, moose, and bald eagles. The stately other investors purchased what is now Harriman State Park— Selkirk Mountain Range towers nearby and numerous called the “Railroad Ranch.” The rich wildlife habitat has been streams can be seen. preserved since the turn of the last century. For seventy-five Noted for its clear water, Priest Lake extends nine- years, the ranch maintained healthy game, waterfowl, and fish teen miles and is connected to the smaller Upper Priest populations, allowing today’s park visitors to observe a rare con- Lake by a placid, two-mile-long water thoroughfare. centration of wildlife in its scenic, natural surrounding. Historical references to the presence of Jesuit Twenty-seven of the original “Railroad Ranch” buildings, priests, Indian villages, homesteaders, and logging camps from the cookhouse to the horse barns, are still intact, furnished are all part of the Priest Lake experience. The park offers and carefully maintained (during summer there are regular tours visitors great recreational diversity ranging from boating of the historic buildings). Fishing, hiking, horseback riding, and and fishing to snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. mountain biking are other ways to experience the beauty of the Located on the northern tip of Priest Lake, area. Bring a camera—the Tetons are spectacular and there are Lionhead is a convenient departure point for boaters breath-taking wildflower displays in the sage meadows and pas- - who wish to explore those pristine waters. This camp- tureland that dominate the landscape. During morning and eve ground was developed for tent camps offering a primitive ning hours, elk, deer, and moose, are often sighted. camping experience. For group camping with up to 50 In winter, visitors may cross-country ski to the warming people, Lionhead is a rustic, isolated retreat. The camp house. There are warm springs in the area and the Henrys Fork offers a thousand feet of white-sand beach on the lake, of the flows gently year-round, meandering nine kitchen and shower facilities, fire pit, and a chance to see miles through park meadows. Fly-fishing on this stream is catch nature at its best. Reservations are taken up to eleven and release only; one-third of the Rocky Mountain trumpeter months in advance for this campground. swan population winters here. Park visitors are reminded not to Call the park at (208) 443-6710. Directions: Follow miss nearby Upper and Lower Mesa Falls while in the area. the signs off State Highway 57 north of Priest River. Call the park (208) 588-7638. Directions: Eighteen miles north of Ashton on U.S. 20/191. is nes- restroom facilities and tled in the majestic mountains of cen- drinking water. Cascade tral Idaho. The lake is popular for all provides two group camp types of boating—prevailing winds on areas, Snowbank and the water make it especially well-suit- Poison Creek. These sites ed for sailing and windsurfing. During are open grassy areas with few trees, the summer, rainbow trout, coho but offer great seclusion for small to salmon, and smallmouth bass and medium-sized groups. perch can be caught from the shore or Osprey Point is the secluded, by boat. Park visitors may ice fish dur- yet accessible, site of three group ing winter months. yurts. Visitors may rent two that For world-class kayaking rapids, share a common deck—sleeping six- the North Fork of the Payette River teen to twenty people. A third yurt flows to the south of Cascade. nearby adds sleeping for ten. A few Visitors will find a challenging nine- tents and RVs can also be accommo- hole golf course on the southeast dated in the camp area. Yurts feature shore of the reservoir. During winter, wood stoves for heat, propane light- there are eight hundred miles of ing, a propane stove for cooking, beds groomed snowmobile trails available and other furniture. to park visitors. There are three hundred tent and Call the park at (208) 382-6544 RV campsites scattered around the for details. Directions: On State reservoir. Campgrounds each feature Highway 55 follow directional signage. has an attraction unique in the - Land of the Yankee Fork is located in sce Western Hemisphere. The park includes the largest single- nic . The Land of the Yankee structured sand dune in North America, with a peak 470 feet above the lakes. Fork historic area provides visitors with a The combination of sand, relatively constant wind activity, chance to experience Idaho’s frontier mining and a natural trap have caused sand to collect in this semicircu- history. Managed jointly by the Idaho lar basin for about twelve thousand years. Unlike most dunes, Department of Parks and Recreation, the U.S. these do not drift far. The prevailing winds blow from the Forest Service and the Federal Bureau of southeast twenty-eight percent of the time and from the north- Land Management, the site combines fasci- west thirty-two percent of the time, keeping the dunes fairly sta - nating history with many recreational oppor ble. The two prominent dunes cover about six hundred acres. - tunities. Although camping is not currently The park contains lake, marsh, desert, prairie, and dune habitats. A sharp eye often is rewarded with a daytime glimpse available onsite, the U.S. Forest Service offers of lizards and rabbits, or raptors such as owls, hawks and eagles. camping at several campgrounds nearby. There is no hunting in the park—except with cameras and bin- Recreational activities include fishing, oculars. Motorized vehicles are not allowed on the dunes. The hunting, cross-country skiing, and whitewater small lakes at the foot of the dunes provide an excellent bass and rafting on the world-famous or bluegill fishery. Sport fishing from nonmotorized boats, canoes, backpacking in the Frank Church River of No rubber rafts, and float tubes is a popular activity. Return Wilderness. The Bruneau Dunes Observatory invites a look at the stars. Beginning in 1870, the area attracted gold Take advantage of a unique opportunity to see the night sky like never before. Visitors are provided a short orientation program seekers searching streams and mountains. and a chance to survey the heavens through the observatory’s Within six years, the mining towns of Custer collection of telescopes. Bruneau Observatory is considered one and Bonanza sprang to life. The gold eventually of the best “dark sky” sites in North America. played out leaving both communities ghost Bruneau Dunes has one of the longest camping seasons in towns by 1911—today the bones of old build- Idaho’s system. March often signals the beginning of camping - ings, tales of the miners, and secluded cemeter season, which continues with warm weather late into the fall. ies are all that remain. The Land of the Yankee Shade trees and shelters are abundant in the campground. Fork Interpretive Center near Challis tells the There are two cabins each renting for $35 per night, which sleep mining story in a building styled after the old up to five on bunk beds and futons. The cabins are powered and heated; cook outside on the grill-covered fire pit. mining mills. Numerous relevant historical Call the park (208) 366-7919. Directions: Twenty min- activities await visitors who explore this park. utes off I-84 near Mountain Home, westbound Exit 112, Call the park at (208) 879-5244. eastbound Exit 90. Directions: Junction of U.S. 93 and State Highway 75. The Coeur d’Alene Indians were the first inhabitants of the area now known as Heyburn State Park. The park Winchester Lake State Park surrounds a 103-acre was created from the Coeur d’Alene Indian Reservation lake, nestled in a forested area at the foot of the Craig when President William Howard Taft, granted 5,505 acres Mountains, just off US 95 near the town of Winchester. of land and 2,333 acres of water to the state in 1908 for The park offers year-round recreation activities and has a public use. It was an ideal place for an encampment, then modern campground. Picnicking and hiking are popular summer activities. In winter enjoy cross-country skiing, ice- and today. The lakes provide an abundance of fish, the skating, and ice fishing. Winchester has three yurts for rent. marsh areas provide plentiful waterfowl, and heavily tim- Winters here are long and cold with ample snowfall. bered slopes and open meadows are an ideal habitat for Summers are short with warm days and cool, refreshing deer, bear, and upland birds. evenings. Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir dominate the Heyburn is the oldest state park in the Pacific park. Wildlife most commonly seen in the park includes Northwest. Much of the early construction was performed white-tailed deer, Canada geese, raccoons, muskrats, paint- by Civilian Conservation Corps Camp SP-1, beginning in ed turtles, osprey, herons, and garter snakes. Winchester 1934. Camp SP-1 members built roads, trails, bridges, Park offers a unique opportunity to view wolves in their campgrounds, picnic areas, picnic shelters, and the Rocky natural habitat. Park rangers can tell you how to see the Point Lodge (now the Chatq’ele’ Interpretive Center). famous Sawtooth Pack in a nearby enclosure and suggest a You can fish for pike, bass, or pan fish in the lakes. visit to the Wolf Education and Research Center. Bird watching is terrific at Heyburn, with osprey and blue Fishing is great at Winchester with rainbow trout heron common. Boating, water skiing, sailing, and canoeing (planted annually by the Idaho Department of Fish and Game), bullhead and smallmouth bass. Small boats are are also popular pursuits. Trails for hikers or horseback allowed, gasoline engines are not. RV, yurt, or tent camping riders are shaded by four hundred-year-old ponderosa sites are available. The forested campground has a modern pines. The Rocky Point Marina offers a public boat ramp, shower house, an amphitheater. store, fuel dock, restroom, and parking. Call the park at (208) 924-7563. Directions: Follow signs The park has 132 campsites in three campgrounds: from town of Winchester, off U.S. 95. Chatcolet, Hawleys Landing, and Benewah. Sites range from full hookup to primitive camping. A regularly sched- uled leisurely cruise on the lakes in Heyburn State Park Please visit the IDPR website for detailed information aboard the cruise boat Idaho is available seasonally. on all thirty parks within the system at www.idahoparks.org Call the park at (208) 686-1308. Directions: Near HEYBURNPlummer off State ST HighwayATE 5. PARK Jennifer Couture is the Communication Program Manager HEYBURN STATE PARK for the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation. JUNE 2004 19 one spud short

The Mystery of the Missing Cat By William Studebaker

ho knows what evil lurks Field had already suffered one trying to tell her the cat felt little Win the heart of a dog or bad experience with Tip and a pain. There was not much pur- how clever he is? neighborhood cat. When Field pose in talking about “cats and Particularly an old cunning knocked on the neighbor’s door dogs” either. As I stood behind dog with discretion, a dog like and handed her the blue, sequin- Field and listened, I wanted to tell Tip. Certainly Field didn’t know. covered collar, there was no use the woman to keep her cats home, In fact he didn’t even suspect Tip. But on occasion, I thought I [Field] was determined to teach Tip if saw in Tip’s eye telltale signs of guilt, particularly on the evening not to respect cats at least to tolerate them... we all spent looking for Mister, His theory was simple. Get a six-week-old the missing cat. kitten and let Tip raise it.

ILLUSTRATION BY DICK LEE

20 IDAHO MAGAZINE one spud short

to put them on leashes. But dog You know the stories of Romulus and delighted in Tip’s cleverness. laws aren’t cat laws, so I kept still and Remus, Pecos Bill? I figure if But it soon became obvious that while Field mumbled out the rest Tip raises a kitten, he’ll get over Tip was packing the cat off and of his apology. Then we turned his hatred of cats.” abandoning him in the field, the and went back to his house. The kitten Field brought borrow pit, the orchard, the What I took to be a normal, home was pure white, soft, and neighbor’s garden. The places albeit unfortunate, experience innocent, and was not in the became farther away and more between feline and canine least fearful nor respectful of difficult to get to. became a “cause” for Field. He Tip. It would walk on Tip while Each time we found him, he was determined to teach Tip if he slept and slap at his ears. Tip was wet and ratty looking, and not to respect cats at least to tol- responded by snapping and mewing pathetically. He obvi- erate them. growling. Field or Chlorina ously had been “carefully” His theory was simple. Get would in turn scold Tip. Tip mauled and transported by a a six-week-old kitten and let developed a low tolerance and no large slobbering dog. Tip fol- Tip raise it. a paternal interest in the kitten. lowed along on these forays, but As Field explained, “You see, Tip developed the habit of he didn’t seem to share in the canines have an instinct to pro- packing the kitten around. At joy of finding Mister. tect the young of any species. first Field thought it was playful Finally, Field would not one spud short

allow Tip to pack Mister around come over and help him and It had to be simpler than that. the house or yard. This changed Chlorina look for Mister. I looked at Tip and what I’d Tip’s behavior, outwardly at “We’ve looked everywhere,” missed before, I now saw: His least. He gave up trying to pack said Field. “Someone must’ve nose was crusted with mud and Mister. Instead he walked stolen him. He’s simply not his feet were caked with dirt. I astraddle of him. Everywhere around. Tip couldn’t have car- scanned the yard around Tip’s the cat went, Tip was sure to ried him off. He’s been tied up doghouse. Sure enough, follow. With his front legs in the backyard all day. I didn’t Chlorina’s rose garden dipped bowed, he straddled the cat and untie him until we started look- into one corner of his territory. walked along, his lower jaw ing for Mister.” The soil looked suspiciously quivering. Mister seemed quite We looked until dark, but loose and fluffy. content with Tip’s attention, with no more success than he I didn’t know what I was until one day when I walked and Chlorina had. As we walked looking for, but when I saw it, I into the backyard and let the into the yard, I realized Tip had wasn’t surprised. I’d half sur- gate slam. not followed us. He was lying mised that Tip had buried

At first Field thought it was playful and delighted in Tip’s cleverness. But it soon became obvious that Tip was packing the cat off and abandoning him in the field, the borrow pit, the orchard, the neighbor’s garden. The places became farther away and more difficult to get to.

Mister, surprised by the down with his head on his front Mister and, sure enough, he had. noise, bolted across the yard. His legs and paws—his dirty toenails Just inside the garden. I saw a sudden movement triggered Tip, fully flexed. As we walked by, he white cat’s tail poking out of the and he dashed after Mister seiz- rolled over on his side as though ground, wiggling weakly. ing him in the middle of the he were going to sleep. But I I hollered at Field and Chlorina, back. I thought for certain it was could see his open eye following who carefully unearthed the going to be a repeat of “Tip and us, and when I spoke to him, his kitten. The shallow grave had the cat with the blue sequin col- eye stopped and his tail gave an not been heavy enough to suffo- lar.” But Tip stopped suddenly, uneasy flip. cate him. dropped Mister and started lick- As it stood, the disappear- Tired and wet from Tip’s ing him. Tip wasn’t exactly wag- ance of Mister was a mystery. If slobbers, it mewed. As we ging his tail, but he gave it a few he had been carried outside the marched passed Tip, his ears uneasy flips now-and-again. yard by Tip, I’d have to believe drooped and he gave out a reck- Mister was lame for a cou- Tip was a hairy Houdini who oning sigh. More was to come. ple weeks, but he was alive. could unchain himself, then Then one evening Field tele- could and would rechain himself, William Studebaker lives in phoned and asked if I would and feign boredom. Twin Falls.

22 IDAHO MAGAZINE fun & games

Motorcycling With (Com)Passion By Donna Geisler

et twenty thousand motorcy- the Ride for Kids—which organizes riders and a lot more money,” says Gclists together to support a motorcycle rallies in cities around Eberharter, who hasn’t stopped cam- cause and you can make an impact. the country to raise millions of dol- paigning for the project since last That’s the drive behind Jerome lars each year for pediatric brain can- year’s event. Eberharter’s newly inaugurated Ride cer research—to amass the seven- Ride to Read has to compete to Read Rally, which brings together teen thousand riders it now boasts. with a number of motorcycle events motorcyclists for an all-day ride from Similarly, the Love Ride, which for attention. In fact, there are so Boise to Stanley and back, with a few began in earnest in Los Angeles in many rides and rallies that the “rest stops” and lunch at Redfish Lake 1984, today attracts high-profile Southwest Idaho Motorcycle Club along the way. Last year, Eberharter, celebrities and proclaims itself the coordinates an annual calendar to president and CEO of Boise-based largest one-day motorcycle event in keep date conflicts to a minimum White Cloud Coffee, saw an oppor- the world, with more than twenty and the motorcycle community tunity to combine his love of motor- thousand riders last year. informed of all the ride opportuni- cycling and his interest in literacy into Kicking off its first year in 2003, ties throughout the season. a fun fundraising opportunity. the Ride to Read Rally brought It may surprise you that more Granted, Eberharter is far from hav- together forty-four riders from than forty-six thousand motorcy- ing twenty thousand riders, but give around the region and raised $4,000 him a few years, and let’s talk again. for adult and child literacy programs. Last stop photo op at the Stanley Library. After all, it took two decades for “This year our goal is two hundred TEGLIA PHOTOGRAPHY, www.thepictureguy.net TEGLIA PHOTOGRAPHY, fun & games

cles are registered in the State of long-haired, bearded, leather-clad she says. “This way provides an Idaho. According to Ron Shepard, chopper types are still plentiful, enjoyable social event. It also pro- coordinator of Idaho’s Motorcycle you’ll also see politicians—Idaho’s vides an opportunity for people new Safety Programs, during each of first family, Governor and Mrs. to riding to explore Idaho. There are the summer months, more than six Kempthorne, both ride Harleys— so many scenic areas.” hundred motorcycle instructional lawyers, accountants, engineers, stat- Shepard’s love of “the sheer permits are issued. isticians, IT professionals, and, well, exhilaration and freedom that you People get hooked on motorcy- writers, riding the scenic byways can’t experience in anything else you cling for various reasons, and many around the state. According to the do” that keeps him riding and teach- take it up when they are young. Some 2003 Media Audit, more than half ing motorcycle safety is echoed by fel- actually make it their vocation, such of the motorcycle owners in the low riders. Greg Feeler, an IT manag- as semi-retired Harry Kindelberger, are between the ages er for Employers Resource in Boise, who spent twenty-five years with the of thirty-five and fifty-four with adds that, no matter your brand or Boise City Police Department. incomes over $50,000 per year. style of riding, there’s a commonality The lure of the road, the spiritual and healing nature of motorcycling, the love of the machine—all have found their way into the literature of our culture...

Kindelberger started out as a motor- These are people with the resources in motorcyclists. “For every one of the cycle escort for funerals and special to give to charitable causes, and what serious riders I know, riding is a pas- events. “When I talked the Boise better way to do it than while partic- sion that changes their fundamental Police into having full-time motorcy- ipating in an activity they enjoy. nature,” he asserts. “They are happier cle officers in 1976, there was one of Participating in a rally, says people because they have something us, and that was me.” Today they have Mary Rockrohr, co-owner of Cycle to be passionate about.” eleven full-time motorcycle officers. Nuts and Bolts in Garden City, Feeler, who also serves on the The face of motorcycling is also serves multiple purposes. “Everyone national board of directors of the changing. While the stereotypical is always looking to help somebody,” BMW Motorcycle Owners of

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America, rides across the country to with fundraising or event planning. for his cause. Now deep in the throes participate in national rallies and just Rockrohr sympathizes with rally of planning the second Ride to Read for the sheer enjoyment of exploring organizers. As the sponsoring dealer Rally, Eberharter remains enthusiastic lesser-traveled roads with time to for the Intermountain chapter of the about the event’s potential success. reflect on his thoughts. For him, there Harley Owners Group, she knows With the first year behind him and a is a spiritual and healing quality about from experience the difficulties they few stout-hearted volunteers to help, riding, particularly on long distances. face. “They are always challenging— Eberharter continues on his mission With motorcyclists, he feels “our one trying to orchestrate the camping to build interest and get riders regis- common characteristic is that we feel areas and road closures, suddenly tered for the June 12th ride. fundamentally that we have no con- there’s problems with the caterer and Feeler, who participated in last trol over our lives. Motorcycling is you are scrambling to get the glitches year’s Ride to Read, plans to organize one area where you can feel that you out.” In the end it is all worthwhile. a team to attend this year’s rally. “It’s a have significant control, not absolute- “There’s satisfaction that you have great excuse to ride,” he says, adding ly, but you can consciously take con- helped other individuals who benefit that, for those like himself who are trol of your life and assume the risk from the organization.” Rockrohr’s passionate about motorcycling, “the of it through riding.” own favorite causes are focused on idea that there is a bowl of chili wait- The lure of the road, the spiritual children. “So many don’t have the ing for you 150 miles away is reason and healing nature of motorcycling, opportunity to live a normal exis- enough to go for a ride.” the love of the machine—all have tence, never mind the blessed exis- For more information on the found their way into the literature of tence I have.” Ride to Read Rally, email ride2read@ our culture and created a calling to While rides and rallies may be whitecloudcoffee.com, those who ride to write about it. That common in southwest Idaho—its or call Jerome Eberharter at connection between the passion for long riding season and mountainous 208-322-1166. motorcycling, writing, and reading terrain make it a veritable motorcycle bring full circle the connection that heaven—few rallies are organized Donna Geisler lives in Boise and is a drove Eberharter to create the Ride to around causes by individuals like volunteer with Ride to Read Rally. She Read Rally with no prior experience Eberharter, who hopes the passion and her husband purchased their bike for motorcycling is enough to bring last year so they wouldn’t get left behind The way home. Mt. Heyworth riders from around the state together on rally day. watches. TEGLIA PHOTOGRAPHY, www.thepictureguy.net TEGLIA PHOTOGRAPHY, art attack

The Magnificent Quilting Ladies of Priest Lake By Marylyn Cork

here are quilts, and there are Tworks of art that happen to be quilts! And that’s the only fair way to describe the kind of bed covering that’s created each winter by a little band of needle-handy women in the resort community of Priest Lake. Each quilt they craft is unique, a one-of-a-kind fabric mas- terpiece. Each has a Priest Lake theme, and each is sold at auction in the spring to raise money for charity. While the charities have ranged from local causes such as the Priest Lake EMT Association to the elementary school to the library and more, primarily quilt proceeds have benefitted the old Coolin Schoolhouse, now the Coolin Civic Center. That some- how seems appropriate. The ladies are utilizing an historic skill to sal- vage and maintain an historic structure important to the commu- nity as a meeting hall. PHOTOCOURTESY Starting in 1990, the ladies

“A Walk In The Woods.” OF

Clockwise from left: Quilters Sonja MARYLYN Maloney, Charlotte Jones, Diane

Munk, Lucy Storro, Louise Mehlert, CORK and Roberta Knauth.

26 IDAHO MAGAZINE art attack

began stitching and raffling an ery. Applique is the technique of Each quilter was given a verti- annual quilt to preserve the old choice, but the embellishments are cal strip of cloth measuring nine schoolhouse, which the community many, ranging from delicate inches wide by four feet long and a was in danger of losing. The idea embroidery that looks for all the copy of a color photograph of the was Lucy Storro’s, a long-time lake world like larch needles, for exam- lake by local photographer Jim resident who is still one of the quil- ple, to beads, ribbons, lace, fabric Holman. The assignment for each ters. Tickets were sold to anyone painting, etc. Nothing is verboten if was to interpret a section of the interested in buying. it works in a quilt, and the ladies photograph. Any quilting tech- Before much time had passed, aren’t afraid to innovate. nique from applique on was accept- however, Priest Lakers were agree- Last year’s “art quilt,” actually able and each lady was free to let ing that the raffles didn’t do justice a four-foot by six-foot wall hang- her imagination run rampant. As to the beautiful works of art the ing, was the first “quilt” the ladies always, the special touches were ladies were turning out. The Priest created that wasn’t large enough to captivating. On a tree branch, Lake Chamber of Commerce then cover a bed. A new member of the Louise Mehlert perched a tiny Starting in 1990, the ladies began stitching and raffling an annual quilt to preserve the old schoolhouse, which the community was in danger of losing. offered a venue more reflective of group, Karen Walters, “talked us owl—actually a button purchased the true value of the work. The into it,” says Sonya Maloney, the at the five and dime. Karen used a ladies now design and create a quilt group’s coordinator and spark fringed upholstery trim for needles, each year that the chamber pro- plug. “It was an experiment,” she sewing it to limbs fashioned from motes as a special item in its says. The project taxed the ladies’ black braid. “Sure looks like “People Helping People Charity creativity and skill, but turned out branches,” her colleagues agreed. Auction,” held on Memorial well and sold for $1,500. Lucy enlisted Priest Lake art- Weekend. Over the past six years, the quilts have brought in almost $16,000, more than enough to sig- nificantly help the Coolin Civic Center keep up with the repairs and maintenance the old school- house needed. Motifs feature the attributes for which Priest Lake is famous— bears and huckleberries, fish and CORK outdoor recreation, gorgeous scen- MARYLYN

This quilt is actually a wall hang- OF ing designed from a photograph by Rick Holman, held in fore- ground by Sonja Maloney. PHOTO COURTESY PHOTO

JUNE 2004 27 art attack

This quilt is called the Priest Lake Album Quilt because it is an adap- tation of the Baltimore Album pat- tern.

ist Betti Jemison to paint Bishop’s Marina, the Leonard Paul Store, and other structures shown in the photo on a square of silk, which she appliqued to her strip. The eight strips, quilted and sewn together to make the wall hang- ing, did look remarkably like the photograph. The previous year the ladies had also departed from tradition by having their design, adapted PHOTOCOURTESY from a pattern called “A Walk In The Woods,” machine quilted. The quilting was the donated artistry of

Roberta Knauth, who owns a OF MARYLYN quilting shop called Cedar

Mountain Design & Fabrication in CORK Priest River, but who happens to be a member of the Priest Lake Chamber of Commerce. She used a require as much as three hun- in the shape of the state. Quilter Legacy quilting machine with a dred hours of their time), Charlotte Jones’ sister, Helen fourteen-foot bed that rode over adapting a design known as the Brown, embroidered the block’s the quilt as she guided it free hand Baltimore Album. Their “Priest Idaho insignia on an embroi- at the rate of eighteen hundred Lake Album” consists of twenty- dery machine, and also a butter- stitches per minute. five blocks of a yellow fabric so fly Charlotte appliqued to “I put in thirty-seven hours pale it might better be consid- another block. The blocks sewn on the machine,” Knauth noted, ered a cream color, and again together and bordered with a “and two thousand yards of applique is the overall technique. strip of fabric ornamented by thread.” Close inspection revealed One block, sporting a frog and a huckleberries and huckleberry that the black bear shown peering lily pad, features a bit of reverse leaves form a queen-sized quilt into a camper’s tent, from which a applique as well. Other blocks that measures ninety-five by pair of alarmed human eyes stared depict deer, bear, moose, trout, ninety-five inches. The ladies back, had curly hair. Bruin’s ‘perm’ mountains and lake, wildflowers, are hoping it will break their was effected by Knauth’s expertise etc. An Idaho state block shows auction record of $3,800 for a on the Legacy. a mountain bluebird and a syrin- single quilt. This year, the ladies are ga blossom with a center of tiny again hand quilting (which can yellow beads applied to a cutout Marylyn Cork lives in Priest River.

28 IDAHO MAGAZINE science & technology

The Birth of a RAT Remote Access Terminal By Kay Kelley

t’s just logical. Becky Logue loves Iboating. A competent boater understands the importance of navigation. When you are at sea, and a problem arises, the navigator steers the crew to safe harbor. So it follows that when the same deductive skills are applied to a work situation, and a solution comes to mind, the result is simple, clear, and efficient. Each time Becky, a Registered Dental Hygienist (RDH) for six- teen years, was with a patient and needed to have information regard- ing that patient’s teeth recorded into the chart, it was necessary to call the dentist’s assistant to write in the pertinent information. To Becky, this was not a direct course of action. Two people required for a simple task. So she asked around. She asked suppliers. She asked dentists. She pored over catalogues and checked out the web. Someone somewhere had surely thought up a method of allowing the RDH to… Access a

The RAT and its operator. ANN HOTTINGER

JUNE 2004 29 science & technology

screen? A computer? Record the forming to HIPPA rules for patient mation received from the RAT just needed information without the use confidentiality. as it would from a mouse or key- of an assistant? “Not so”, was the The first step was a pictorial ren- board, and the information is tran- standard reply, usually accompanied dering of the idea. The next was a scribed to a screen within easy view with a slight smirk. “When a better visit with Ken Pederson, a patent of the RDH who is able to check it mousetrap squeaks through, we’ll attorney. “See if there’s anything like for accuracy immediately. call you first.” this out there,” she asked. While “Sometimes it seems as if this As the years rolled past, Becky Pederson was researching the idea, whole idea has been choreo- talked the problem over with her Becky contacted Cliff Seusy of graphed,” Becky said. “It’s as though husband, Mert, a man with a dis- Airtrack Electronics to take the draw- doors are opening as we make our tinct understanding and compre- ings from the pictorial stage to a way along. It’s weird to be in a hension of all things mechanical. working model. business thing, and meet people She discussed an idea with her Word came back from Ken with the same goals—sometimes father. As a picture of the solution Pederson that nothing under patent the same dreams and nightmares— began to form in her mind, she went was similar to Becky’s idea: a legal go- but it’s happening.” once again into the marketplace, but ahead for development. The next Recently Becky and Mert took found nothing to fill the void. More steps taken were to file for a patent their blended family, Julia, Mattie, Finally Becky’s dad, Richard Friesen, laid it on the line: “Becky,” said he, “get up out of that chair and invent it.”

discussions, more searches. Finally and to form “Beckmer Becky’s dad, Richard Friesen, laid it Products, Inc.” on the line: “Becky,” said he, “get up In the meantime, out of that chair and invent it.” And Seusy came up with a so that is exactly what she did. functioning prototype, “What if I could access with my and the Remote Access foot a device to record directly into the Terminal (RAT) was on file my observations of a patient’s the floor and in operation. teeth?” she mused. “Both my hands An on-the-floor would remain free to complete the RAT operates in a man- examination, the dental assistant ner similar to an on-the- would no longer need to interrupt her desk mouse. There is a aid to the dentist to write in the peri- joystick to move the cur- odontal chart, and the patient’s privacy sor and a left click with would be further protected by my not buttons to call up num- having to relay information orally to bers one through eight. A the assistant—an advantage in con- computer “hears” infor-

RIGHT: Inventor Becky Logue showing off her creation. HOTTINGER ANN

OPPOSITE: The computer screen which displays the patient’s periodontal chart.

30 IDAHO MAGAZINE science & technology

Jake, and Johnny with them to Phoenix. While the chil- dren visited with grandparents, Becky and Mert attended a dental convention to demonstrate the RAT in operation. “The reaction from the dentists is so much fun,” Becky said. “Each time we attend a convention and demonstrate the product you can almost hear people saying ‘Well, of course—why didn’t I think of that?’ It’s just so logical.” Now the RAT is definitely in the marketing phase. Mac Lad, an illustrator, has worked with Becky’s team to develop a brochure. The word is starting to spread. Becky has received several phone calls from dentists who have learned of the product from colleagues. Becky is currently working for Dr. Scott A. Wright and Dr. Kenyon Oyler at the Centennial Dental Center in Boise. Both doctors enjoy the newest in technological innovations. The center, doctors and staff, have been sup- portive of Becky throughout this whole journey.

Kay Kelley lives in Boise. ANN HOTTINGER

For information on ordering advertising, contact your YPcity representative at (208) 788-8447 PHOTO COURTESY OF DONI WIXOM “World PotatoCapital.” “World the as Blackfoot proclaiming landmark local this CENTERSPREAD: populartubers. these of consumption country’s this of third one growing World, the of Capital Potato the all, after world’sfavoritevegetable. Blackfoot is, potato,theabout the talking out can’talmostBlackfoot with- of speak thinkpeople “potatoes,”well. as You most and “Blackfoot” Say “potatoes.” Say “Idaho”thinkpeoplemost and By Janet Marugg Janet By

Visitorshave longbeengreeted by

By Arthur Hart he city of Blackfoot takes its name from the TBlackfoot River which was named by the famous fur trapper Donald Mackenzie after Blackfoot Indians he encountered in the area. The Blackfoot ranged over a vast area of the northern Great Plains from Canada southward. Only rarely did they venture into what is now , but in the 1830s they clashed with and Flathead Indians in two bloody battles. The Blackfoot were the scourge of the region because they acquired guns from white traders before other HART tribes did. ARTHUR Fur brigades visited the upper Snake River Valley every year after Alexander Henry established Fort passed the site of later Blackfoot on their way to one Henry in April 1810. Henry’s Fork of the Snake is of the worst disasters in the history of the fur trade. named for him. Their epic journey is described in Washington On October 8, 1811, a John Jacob Astor over- Irving’s Astoria, published in 1836. land expedition, led by Wilson Price Hunt and Nathaniel Wyeth began building Fort Hall on July Donald Mackenzie, reached Fort Henry. Their goal 14, 1834, about ten miles south of present Blackfoot. was to rendezvous at the mouth of the Columbia On July 27 Methodist missionary Jason Lee’s sermon River with another Astor party that had come by sea to the Indians marked the beginning of missionary in the steamboat Tonquin. Hunt abandoned his activity in the Oregon Country. Blackfoot’s Jason Lee horses at Fort Henry, built canoes, and unwisely Memorial United Methodist Church has a stained started down the Snake, mistakenly thinking his glass window crediting him with delivering “the first party could float all the way to the Pacific. They Protestant sermon west of the Rocky Mountains.” The SOCIETY HISTORICAL STATE IDAHO THE OF COURTESY PHOTO

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Oregon Short Line Railroad Depot, now the home of the Blackfoot Potato Expo; A panorama of Blackfoot’s Main Street in 1909.

LEFT: The beautiful Blackfoot LDS Tabernacle in a photo taken in 1919. The building now belongs to the city of Blackfoot.

in the region as a mission to the Shoshone Indians in 1855, but had been forced to withdraw in 1858. Mormon farmers along the route from Salt Lake City

WIXOM into the upper Snake River Valley were urged to supply DONI

OF the teams for grading the route for new narrow gauge tracks that would enable them to get their crops to the Utah market. COURTESY PHOTO It was the building of the railroad that created the Indians could only have understood it if someone town of Blackfoot. On December 2, 1877, the tracks translated it into sign language. The oldest portion of had reached Franklin, and on December 17, 1878, they this historic church is part of the original structure, were at the Blackfoot River and the site of the new built in 1885. town. The timing could not have been better for ensur- Gold discoveries in what is now western Montana, ing that Blackfoot would become an important trans- then part of a giant 1863 Idaho Territory that included portation center. all of Montana and most of Wyoming, spurred a busy A gold and silver rush into the valley of the Big freight route from Salt Lake City to Bannock and Wood River, 125 miles to the west, began in 1879. Virginia City. This heavy traffic made the building of Galena ore had to be smelted to separate the silver the Utah & Northern Railroad a feasible project, espe- from the lead, and the closest smelter was in Salt Lake cially with the encouragement of Mormon President City. Over the next couple of years heavy-duty wagons Brigham Young. The Mormons had built Fort Lemhi hauled millions of tons of galena ore to Blackfoot, the

JUNE 2004 35 point on the railroad nearest to Utah smelters. Blackfoot was synonymous with the institution. The The wild rush into Wood River after 1880 sur- 1884-85 legislature authorized $20,000 for construc- passed all earlier mining stampedes in Idaho history, tion of the asylum with the hope that the good agri- and the infant town of Blackfoot was one of its prin- cultural land at the site would allow inmates to grow cipal beneficiaries. Nearly all supplies for the mines crops to help defray the cost of operation. and the exploding populations of Bellevue, Hailey, Before the facility at Blackfoot was ready to and Ketchum passed through Blackfoot. By early receive Idaho’s insane in the summer of 1886, they 1882 an estimated two million pounds of freight had had been housed in the Oregon asylum at Salem. been transferred from the Utah & Northern at Three years after the move in November 1889, the Blackfoot to wagons headed west. Blackfoot asylum’s main building burned to the Blackfoot also had rail access to the transconti- ground. Three patients died in the fire, fifty-three nental Union Pacific, completed May 10, 1869, and were saved, and five escaped. Two had walked twenty- possessed a virtual monopoly of the Utah to Wood five miles to Eagle Rock (later Idaho Falls) before River trade until the building of the Oregon Short they were found. There was no insurance on the Line Railroad across . Construction of $50,000 building or its furnishings. the O.S.L. began at Granger, Wyoming, on July 12, Hiram French’s 1914 tells us 1881, but its Wood River branch did not reach that Blackfoot had been known for many years as the Hailey from Shoshone junction until May 1883. “Grove City,” because of its beautiful old shade trees. Pocatello, where the Utah & Northern and the “In 1886 the first trees ever planted in the upper O.S.L. lines crossed, became a major railroad center. Snake River Valley were set out around the Blackfoot The narrow gauge tracks of the Utah & Northern courthouse by Alfred Moyes, and a ditch was con- were soon converted to standard gauge making them structed for irrigating them. It is said that during the compatible with the other lines to which they con- succeeding years excursions to Blackfoot were orga- nected. Blackfoot itself became an important junction nized so that people in the nearby regions might have point when branch lines were built later to Mackay a chance to feast their eyes on this verdure, which and Aberdeen to the west. undoubtedly was in marked and pleasing contrast Every city in Idaho Territory, before and after with the unbroken expanses of native sagebrush.” No statehood in 1890, wanted to be the home of a major editor of a history book today would let that pass. “It public institution. Boise had the capitol and the peni- is said,” would get the author a stinging editorial tentiary, Blackfoot got the insane asylum and, for bet- rebuke: “Who said it? When? Can you cite a source? ter or worse, to the rest of the state thereafter And “first tree?” Early writers of history were fond of PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY listing firsts, especially “the first white child born in...,” as though that had historic significance. Many places had several claimants to that honor. The same color- ful author continued: By Janet Marugg “From a little freighting station, where at times the cowboys from the surrounding ranges would come and indiscriminately ‘shoot up’ the place, lackfoot is an island in a sea of potato fields Blackfoot has grown to its present enviable position Bstretching from the Blackfoot Mountains to the of wealth and prominence. It is the center of a profit- lava flows of Idaho’s great rift on the Snake River able agricultural section, an important railway and Plain. Idaho’s great rift, seen from space satellites, cre- distributing point, and the capital of Bingham ated lava flows nearly 2,500 years ago. The great rift County.” The “shoot ‘em up” reference suggests that the is a 635 square-mile geological phenomenon of fis- writer was influenced by western movies, for by 1914 sures—spatter cones, and lava tubes represented by most small Idaho towns had a movie theater that sixty different lava flows and over twenty-five volcanic showed Western films. eruptive events. Fortunately for nearby residents, the In 1916 Blackfoot had two theaters, the Isis and volcanic action is over, and the ash deposits have cre- the Orpheum. One of the city’s current landmarks, list- ated the perfect soil for crops. ed in the National Register of Historic Places, is the Generations of agricultural ties are mortared firm- art deco Nuart Theater of 1930-31, built by Fletcher ly into the historic brick buildings that line Blackfoot’s Taylor for $100,000—a daring undertaking with the streets. There are no malls here; shops and professional closing in. Depressed Idaho agricul- practices are tucked neatly into older homes with ture in the 1920s had already hit the Blackfoot area Victorian charm. Local groups and students use the hard. The city’s population dropped from 3,937 in old Nuart Theater for plays and musical productions, 1920 to 3,199 in 1930. Today Blackfoot has over and the fire department still blows a noon whistle. 24,000 people, the same broad and shaded residential History cuts deep into the soil of the surrounding streets, and handsome buildings, both historic and area. In Bingham County east of Fort Hall, you can modern. These are things visitors have admired about still see the ruts of wagon wheels made while traveling Blackfoot for more than 120 years. the Oregon Trail nearly two hundred years ago. Idaho’s Oregon and California Trail Association (OCTA) is Arthur Hart is director emeritus of the Idaho State completing a project this year, marking Goodale’s Historical Society. Cutoff with metal markers through what is now Bingham County. As Bingham County’s seat, Blackfoot residents play a big part in preservation of historically important places that Idahoans cherish and can call our own. One of the most famous old buildings in Blackfoot is a nondescript brownstone building that was once the old Oregon Short Line Railroad Depot. It now houses the Idaho Potato Exposition and

OPPOSITE: The tree-lined drive that led to what was then called Blackfoot’s “lunatic asylum.”

WIXOM LEFT: An early photo of Blackfoot’s Main Street. The popular DONI

OF Isis Theater can be seen in the background. COURTESY

PHOTO JUNE 2004 37 LEFT: A postcard from the Blackfoot Potato Expo. The expo has many notable exhibits, including the world’s largest potato chip.

BELOW & OPPOSITE: The Eastern Idaho , held each summer in Blackfoot, is considered by many to be the premier fair in the state; The entrance to the fairgrounds. PHOTO COURTESY Blackfoot Chamber of Commerce. This unique pota- OF

THE to museum showcases the potato industry through IDAHO historical exhibits and displays. The gift shop sells POTATOEXPO potato-related products from pressed potato-blossom bookmarks to potato hand cream. Other communities in other states boast the largest ball of string, or the longest piece of straight Manzanita wood, so it’s not surprising that the residents of Blackfoot boast the world’s largest potato chip, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. Potato cellars dot the farthest edges of the town site and flourish throughout the county. Today, the potato cellars are built with metal and modern mate- rials, but many of the old sod cellars still stand and, as a testament to the strength of life in the area, are still being used. The Snake and Blackfoot rivers are both a boon and a bane for Blackfoot. Rapid melt of snow regularly results in the Snake and Blackfoot rivers flooding. Combine a deep snow year with good spring rains and a flood is nearly guaranteed. The latest “hundred-year- flood” was in 1997. In some places, waters were five feet deep and a mile out from what is normal for the rivers’ banks. These rivers are important to area wildlife as well as domestic animals and humans. Wintering bald eagles are a common sight preceded and followed by numerous species of migrating birds, making the Snake River Plain a mecca for bird watchers. These same rivers make Blackfoot a little-known sportsman paradise. Outdoor recreation activities abound from the Blackfoot Mountains to Hell’s Half

PHOTO Acre National Landmark, to the Blackfoot and Snake

COURTESY rivers. Here is proof that there is more than meets the eye in the Desert. OF

DONI WIXOM Blackfoot is also geographically situated for easily accessible recreational opportunities in the nearby Fort

38 IDAHO MAGAZINE Hall Casino, Sun Valley, Craters of the Moon National Monument, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, and Salt Lake City. Not only an angler’s dream because of the conflu- ence of the Snake and Blackfoot rivers, the town of Blackfoot also has a lake. Jensen’s Grove is a man-made lake formed by diverting the Snake River to accommo- date Interstate 15 and is a hot spot for Blackfoot’s boat and beach enthusiasts in the summer months. Just north along I-15 is Blackfoot’s golf course, one of Idaho’s best. Strolling around the Greenway system which links the community of Blackfoot with the Snake River is nearly a year-round activity. Winter skylines are touched with hoar-frosted cot- tonwoods looking both comical and sacred at the same time, and it’s clear to see why the town was briefly called Grove City before officially being named Blackfoot. The small community of Groveland is near-

GRAPHICS PRODUCTIONS by, still carrying the arborous title. Other nearby settle- OF ments include Riverside, Thomas, and Wapello. When the snows fly, and some years this is well COURTESY PHOTO before Halloween, snowmobiles explore the winter kissed sage and soil as the trees leaf out into spring, the healing tonic for patients in the beautiful buff-colored buildings, standing peaceful and proud. Blackfoot residents are proud of the community swimming pool where every- thing from swimming to scuba diving is taught year-round. Regardless of the weather, the swim team practices under the Temcor, an all-aluminum geodesic PHOTOCOURTESY dome, a noticeably different building in the community.

OF What’s next for Blackfoot? Agribusiness DONI

WIXOM plays a big part in Blackfoot’s economy, but another large employer is the Idaho National Engineering & Environmental Laboratory ABOVE: The art deco Nuart Theater built by Fletcher Taylor in (INEEL). Since Blackfoot is directly between 1930-31 for $100,000. Idaho Falls to the north and Pocatello to the south, there wonderlands along the Wolverine Creek and Long are possibilities for a regional airport that would serve Valley snowmobile trails where people camp during the both of these communities. long days of summer after the farm chores are done. The identification of I-15 as the “Technology Seasons are rich and everyone knows it’s Labor Corridor,” puts Blackfoot in a perfect strategic position. Day weekend when more than 200,000 people roll Flanking I-15, from Pocatello north to Rexburg, the onto Main Street to visit the Eastern Idaho State Eastern Idaho Technology Corridor constitutes a Fair. One of the finest agricultural fairs in the coun- unique collection of assets providing a rich environ- try, it’s not just for vegetables anymore. Nightly ment for technology-based companies. entertainment has recently featured such notables as But the core of Blackfoot’s economy still depends Rascal Flatts, Three Doors Down, and Def Leppard. on agriculture. Potato processing companies such as The best in carnival rides, horse racing, and rodeos Nonpareil and Basic American Foods are still going are well-attended attractions. Still, it maintains its strong, as are farm equipment companies like Spudnik small town feel because anybody can enter whatever and E.M. Tanner & Sons. it is they are proudest of: flowers, photographs, and With a vibrant business environment, an industri- even cookie jar collections. ous and well-educated workforce, and costs of doing The Eastern Idaho Fair Grounds are used for business that are among the lowest in the nation, other events throughout the year. In June, the increasing numbers of companies are discovering that American Kennel Clubs in nearby Idaho Falls and Eastern Idaho is a great place to grow a business. Pocatello converge on Blackfoot for an AKC Licensed Many professionals trained throughout the country, Dog Show. Pups and their people from all over the from scientists to doctors, are finding a home in Blackfoot, compete for points on the road to preferring the rural peace, the low cost of living, lower Westminster. If you’ve ever wondered what a crime rates, and high quality of life. Rhodesian Ridgeback or a Chinese Crested looks like, Blackfoot has a wonderful alchemy, where the newest in this is the place to go. It is one of the largest, friendliest technology meets the age-old earth and sky. Blackfoot is as and best-attended dog shows in Idaho. it has always been: a place where the future meets the past. State Hospital South settles on forty acres of park- like grounds at Blackfoot’s edge. The air smells of rain- Janet Marugg is a freelance writer.

40 IDAHO MAGAZINE January Winter Festival at Jensen Grove February Mayor’s Ball March St. Bernard’s Antique Show Blackfoot Community Players Musical April Easter Egg Hunt at Jensen Grove May Cinco de Mayo Celebration Salute to High School Seniors June Golf Tournament Blackfoot Pride Ranch Rodeo High School Rodeo Gem State Cluster Dog Show Trapper’s Association Show July Summer Festival and Fireworks at Jensen Grove Horse Shows August Bingham County 4-H Fair Shoshone-Bannock Festival (Fort Hall) September Eastern Idaho State Fair Paint Horse Show October Potato Harvest December Christmas Tree Fantasy Community Live Nativity Jensen Grove

For more information contact the Blackfoot Chamber of Commerce @ (208) 785-0510, or visit online @ www.blackfootchamber.org

JUNE 2004 41 power brokers

Hells Canyon A Canyon Of Challenges By Dennis Lopez

om Roach was hardly a river- Tboat gambler. In fact he was the epitome of conservatism in his speech, manners, dress, and the way in which he ran Idaho Power as its president for more than twenty years. But when it came to the idea of building three hydroelectric dams at Hells Canyon, he was ready to gam- ble all against the federal government. It was the early 1950s. The growing conflict in Korea was plac- ing a demand for war materials on the aluminum and defense plants of the West. The federal government was proposing to build a single six hundred-foot-high dam on the Snake River in Hells Canyon to ensure that, as the Columbia system had provided in World War II, there would be adequate electricity to power the war effort. There were those who early on were prepared to support the govern- ment in that effort, including Tom Roach. But in exchange, he wanted a slice of the electric “pie” for Idaho PHOTOCOURTESY

RIGHT: Hells Canyon Dam. OF IDAHO

OPPOSITE: Former Idaho Power POWER President Tom Roach.

42 IDAHO MAGAZINE power brokers

Power and his present and future would create a reservoir customers. The federal government ninety-three miles long. was not willing to provide that slice. Most of Hells Canyon By the time 1951 ended, Roach and the upstream commu- was on the offensive, saying the feder- nities as far as Farewell al government was working at placing Bend, Oregon, would have roadblocks in Idaho’s pathway to been inundated. growth. The lines were drawn in the In 1955, the FPC final- sands of the Snake River. What had ly granted Idaho Power the begun as a public-private opportunity license it needed to proceed had become a head-on collision. The with construction. Although public vs. private power fight was on. the government’s high dam The good-versus-evil mentality was still a possibility, Roach of the McCarthy era was now being took a calculated risk and focused upon Idaho Power. began construction on

However, rather than Communism, Brownlee Dam. He took POWER

the focus of the attack was on social- that risk knowing that had IDAHO ism—the government running what the Supreme Court invali- OF could be operated more efficiently by dated Idaho Power’s FPC private enterprise. license, or if Congress decid- COURTESY PHOTO Tiny Idaho Power was thrust into the national spotlight. Support for, or opposition against, the govern- ...to say that three dams would be ment’s high dam at Hells Canyon was built was one thing. To actually build the source of bitter conflict both within the region and the nation. them, was quite another. Idaho and Idaho Power were in the eye of a public policy storm. ed to authorize the building of a high large-scale hydroelectric project oper- For the next four and a half dam, his company would not be able ated by private business rather than years, Idaho Power worked at to assert any valid claims against the by the government. obtaining a license from the United States for the recovery of con- But to say that three dams would Federal Power Commission (FPC) struction costs. be built was one thing. To actually (the predecessor to the Federal Ironically, it was the government build them, was quite another. Energy Regulatory Commission) that finally settled the issue. When The idea of building a dam in to build three low dams in Hells Congress rejected the fourteenth and Hells Canyon was not new. In fact, Canyon. This combination ulti- last bill for the construction of a high Sinclair and William Mainland, mately proved to be technically the Hells Canyon dam in 1958, it laid to known in Idaho history simply as the most competitive with the govern- rest the threat of the government Mainland Brothers, attempted to ment’s proposed High Mountain rescinding Idaho Power’s FPC license build a thirty thousand-kilowatt plant Sheep Dam. The government’s sin- for the three-dam Hells Canyon proj- at Oxbow. With seven million bor- gle dam would generate more than ect. Tom Roach’s gamble had paid off. rowed dollars they began building eight hundred megawatts and Idaho and the region would have a their project at Oxbow in 1908.

JUNE 2004 43 power brokers PHOTOCOURTESY PHOTOCOURTESY PHOTOCOURTESY OF OF OF IDAHO IDAHO IDAHO POWER POWER POWER

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Workers building Hells Canyon Dam; The early stages of con- “It was a dream job. I had every problem struction; Oxbow Dam. you could imagine,” [Alworth] said. OPPOSITE: Brownlee Dam. “We had thirteen miles of Union Pacific rail- Their idea was to dam the narrow road, and nine miles of Oregon state high- stretch of river at the tip of the thumb of land that makes the way to deal with. We had elementary “oxbow” in the river and then build a schools, teachers, and school buses. tunnel through the thumb to bring We had a supermarket…the problems water to the plant’s turbines. “Cities will grow,” their brochure weren’t unusual. Just new.” said. “Homes without lights will be flooded with radiance. The engineer- pleted within three years. Oxbow workers could commute to the job ing skill (used at Oxbow) marks a had to be underway within four site, so terraced areas for house trail- new epoch in the social and industrial years of this date and completed ers were built. life of the region.” within two years. Ultimately the job site became a Regrettably they were better Ground would have to be bro- small city unto itself. For over a writers than builders. By 1911, they ken at Hells Canyon within six decade, Idaho Power and contractors were nearly broke and the project years and work completed three worked in Hells Canyon to meet the was abandoned. years thereafter. demanding schedule created by the For Idaho Power it would be a Logistically not much had FPC license. different story. The granting of the changed since the Mainland Brothers Bob Alworth, a former Idaho FPC license started the construction attempted to build in Hells Canyon. Power property accountant, clock running. The terms of the None of the small communities near- described the process of meeting license required that construction of est the job site could support the the logistical challenges in the Brownlee Dam start within one-year hundreds of workers, their tools, remote canyon. of the effective date of the license machines, food, fuel, transportation, “It was a dream job. I had every (Aug. 4, 1955) and the project com- and supplies. There was no way problem you could imagine,” he said.

44 IDAHO MAGAZINE power brokers POWER I(DAHO OF COURTESY PHOTO

“We had thirteen miles of Union in just over thirty and one-half ect is being closely examined by Pacific railroad, and nine miles of hours of flying time. federal and state agencies, Native Oregon state highway to deal with. Helicopters also were used to American tribes, and organizations We had elementary schools, teachers, move equipment and personnel in who want its next fifty years to and school buses. We had a super- and out of the pristine wilderness reflect the changing times and con- market…the problems weren’t areas where building roads was ditions of the 21st Century. Idaho unusual. Just new.” not allowed. Power has proposed spending $365 Ultimately problems were over- In October 1967 Hells million to offset the effects the proj- come by engineering, common sense, Canyon Dam, the last of the three ect may have on fish, wildlife, water and ingenuity. For example, a twenty- to be constructed and the last in quality, and recreation. three-mile-long road had to be built Idaho Power’s string of hydro proj- How this debate will be before equipment could even be ects on the Snake River, produced resolved remains an open question. moved to the site for the Hells power. Tom Roach was there to What are not in question are the Canyon Dam. turn the switch. benefits that the Hells Canyon Transmission lines to carry the It is ironic that today the com- complex has brought to Idaho and power from the canyon were built plex that bears his name, the Thomas to the region in terms of plentiful on grades as steep as forty percent. E. Roach Hydroelectric Complex, is power, recreation, fish and wildlife Because of these extremes, helicop- known almost universally simply as habitat, and flood control. ters were employed to move and the Hells Canyon Project. As it was for Tom Roach, Hells place the seven thousand-pound Now the project that was con- Canyon remains a canyon of contro- transmission towers. In fact, heli- ceived amid great controversy is versy and challenges more than half a copters proved so efficient, they again in the eye of another storm. century later. were able to put ten of these towers, The license that Tom Roach totaling 750,000 pounds, into place obtained almost half a century ago Dennis Lopez works in the corpo- in an area that within three miles, will expire next year. rate communications department of rose from 1,700 feet to 6,000 feet, The nearly fifty-year-old proj- Idaho Power. JUNE 2004 45 front porch tales

Big Creek Rebirth Day By Barbara Michener

lying over Idaho’s landscapes in view of the rugged terrain. make tight turns. Fsmall aircraft always sends chills On a hot July morning Roger After Steve and David did their of exhilaration through me. At a and I drove to the Caldwell walk-around inspections, we loaded thousand feet adrenalin rushes as the Airport, passing mint fields, their for the trip. I climbed into my plane, ground passes underneath and luscious scent carried to me on a squeezing into the passenger seat launches me toward spiritual mus- slight morning breeze. We both located directly behind David’s. The ings. While floating through the jag- looked forward to our return trip plane was just wide enough for my ged peaks of the Sawtooth Mountain to the mountains we love. body. As I attempted to lower myself Range I’ve looked eye-to-eye with tormented wind-twisted junipers On a hot July morning Roger and I standing with their feet in snow, drove to the Caldwell Airport, passing mint deformed as though they were wound up and wrung out like wet fields...We both looked forward to our dish rags. Bending to biting winds at return trip to the mountains we love. the ten thousand-foot elevation they hang on in exchange for life. Gliding Steve and David, the two private back in the seat, I noted a one-inch through the White Cloud Peaks, pilots from whom Roger bought the pipe rising about a foot out of the massive rock formations stand proud trip at a fund-raising auction, met us floor. Sitting down required straddling like old white-haired men cloaked in on the airfield. Everything was in this piece of metal. My knees touched wisdom from eons of existence. first-class shape. The small, two-seat- the back of his seat and leaned on the Knowing how I love to fly, my er Super Cubs sparkled with fresh metal sides of the fuselage. As I raised husband Roger bought a special trip white paint and newly-padded interi- up to get the seat belt, my hair as part of my fifty-sixth birthday cele- ors. The pilots stroked their machines brushed the ceiling. I tried to imagine bration. This backcountry breakfast proudly as we circled them. Having Roger settling his six-foot frame into a fly-in took us to Big Creek Lodge in flown in Super Cubs in Alaska, we similar tiny space in his plane. I filled the Payette wilderness, located about felt comfortable with the planes’ capa- my seat stuffing my purse and jacket twenty miles north of Yellowpine. In bilities. The Cub is a great backcoun- against the fuselage wall to my left. past years I’ve celebrated many birth- try plane, needing very little runway days floating the Middle Fork of the to take off. Superior engine power OPPOSITE: The Super Cub was totaled Salmon River, so flying into the same allows it to climb at a steep pitch to after losing its right wing, propeller, country promised a mountain-top clear trees and mountains and to and wheel strut.

46 IDAHO MAGAZINE front porch tales

David explained the metal between my legs. A handle to insert into the floor stick was clipped into the ceiling on my right side. Together they could be used to control the plane in an emergency. I had no interest in controlling the plane and sought no emergency, but reached up and touched it, acknowledging its presence. We taxied to the end of the runway. Roger’s plane took off ahead of us, pushing itself up over the mint fields. David revved the engine going through his checklist—power on, fuel on, flaps working. He radioed the tower he was ready for take off and powered the engine. We were off the ground as I counted one, two, three seconds. I relished the loud hum of the engine and felt the surge of power as the force pressed my body against the seat. I quit flying lessons just after I had completed my mid- length solo flight in 1985. Concerned about being responsible for other people’s lives I knew it would take me years to become comfortable as the pilot in charge. I decided to let oth- ers, more capable and experienced, do the piloting. Cool morning air offered a smooth flight into Big Creek. We saw new country and some familiar places, including the Stolle Meadows salmon trap where Roger worked for my dad, and where we spent our honeymoon. We landed at Big Creek Lodge at nine a.m., just in time for breakfast. The bacon and eggs, hash browns, pancakes, and fresh coffee tasted especially good in the high mountain air. We immersed ourselves in the alpine setting, walking around but- tercups and watercress growing at the edge of a stream and warming ourselves in the morning sun. Bluebirds flashed through the air. A red-tailed hawk soared over the ridge top we had just cleared for landing. Tall meadow grass hid elk sign, as MICHENER BARBARA COURTESY PHOTO front porch tales

checked the gaug- In the silence of uncertainty, I rec- es and waited a ognized fear sitting in front of me and few seconds, as danger approaching ahead of us. Seated you always do for in the fuselage with the tail tilted down, prop wash turbu- what lay ahead of the plane was out of lence to dissipate. my sight. I could only watch the The plane felt a ground passing by out the side window

PHOTOCOURTESY little squirrelly, and knew we were headed for the tree- pulling back and covered mountainside.

BARBARA forth, as soon as It became obvious that he’d we started down failed to correct the plane when MICHENER the runway. It fish- David exclaimed, tailed as we gained “Oh, S—-!” Hikers inspect the crash site. speed; loss of con- If he was worried, so was I. Pilots trol became more pronounced. At don’t like to scare their passengers so horses grazed in the distance. It was a about thirty-five miles-per-hour, almost they don’t express their fears openly. scene of peace and relaxation we didn’t airborne, the plane veered sharply to We were going to crash if he couldn’t want to leave. the left. I knew something was wrong get the plane stopped before we hit the However, summer heat dictated but thought David would correct it. trees. Eight, twelve, and twenty-four- that we be off the ground by noon, Once you are airborne you inch pine and spruce ran toward us. since high temperatures make takeoffs have more room to maneuver. It’s As we hit the first tree, sounds difficult in the thin mountain air. contact with the ground that wor- filled my consciousness—metal sounds Flights get bumpy and dangerous as ries a pilot. David tried to get the of scraping and tearing. A tire exploded the temperature rises. plane straightened out by applying as it bounced off a rock. The propeller We squeezed ourselves back into the brakes. We were going so fast dug into the packed ground, twisted the planes and Steve and Roger took there was not enough weight on the and recoiled like an empty pop can. off first again. David taxied our plane tires and the brakes weren’t grab- Fuel-filled wings cut trees off waist to the uphill end of the runway, bing the graveled runway. high, jagged branches scraping down front porch tales the side of the fuselage. Branches front of me. He took my arms afraid the midday heat. Roger still jokes cracked, breaking through my left win- to hug me, not knowing if I was about the bruises on his leg where I dow. Windows caved in on both sides. hurt. “I’m alright,” I assured him. I’m dug my fingernails in as we took off. Crunching metal came at me from left, glad he’s here. He gives me strength David and Steve flew home in the right, and above. I threw my arms up to and courage. remaining Super Cub, planning to protect my head. The right side of the Roger and Steve were already drive in through McCall to pick up plane caved in, the roof pinched down in the air down the canyon when the totaled plane the following week. onto my head and body. That damned they got David’s message that we I have no need to lay blame for the steering handle clipped on the roof were down. Then David shut off near disaster. This time we were lucky. grazed my head and left its mark. the power and electrical immediate- Perhaps David could have waited lon- All is still…quiet. Stunned, I sit ly to avoid sparks that might ignite ger on the runway to avoid possible re-gathering my mind, processing a fire. Roger was wearing earphones prop wash. Or maybe it was a wind information. I am still here, still in to listen to the pilots talk and must gust, or a weak tire strut that no one the plane. have been sick, not knowing wheth- could see or anticipate. He will be a I hear David’s voice, er we were alive. But kneeling in better pilot because of this accident. I “Steve, I’m down.” And to me, I look around inside the plane. No blood. I do “Are you OK?” “I think so, are you OK?” I reply. an inventory of my body. It seems to be all “Yes.” together. No pain. I must get out. I look around inside the plane. No blood. I do an inventory of my body. It front of me there, he could see I will be more appreciative of the time I seems to be all together. No pain. I only suffered a bump on the head have left in my life. must get out. Open the door. Damned and scratches on my arms. At that I’ve been asked if I will fly again. seat belt. I need to undo the seat belt. time I didn’t know about the four “Absolutely,” I reply. I won’t miss the Fear of fire shakes my fumbling hands. people who had died just two weeks view of the mountaintops, rocks, “ Hurry.” earlier at the end of this airstrip. I trees, and high mountain lakes. I I see David out of the plane. I’m heard they turned too sharply, lost continue to run rivers, ride horses, alone, strapped in, struggling to escape. control, and crashed into the moun- and drive my car to work, all equally People come running from the lodge. tain. No one survived. as risky. There are too many things I Hands reach in through the open door One’s chances of walking away want to do and see to crawl into a to help me get out. They guide me a few from a plane crash with minor secluded shell of presumed safety. steps from the plane and I sit down on scratches and bruises are not that Having both lost a parent when they the grass. A woman hiker brings a good. We were very fortunate. The were in their fifties, Roger and I medical kit, lodge contacted a pilot up the Salmon decided at that time to pack as much “She’s not bleeding anywhere,” River who was willing to fly Roger into our lives as we could muster the she says. and me back to Caldwell. Like being energy to do. My birthday trip to Big Several people walk around me thrown from a horse and getting back Creek was indeed a day of rebirth and the wreck. David surveys the plane on, one hour after the crash I climbed for my spirit. This close encounter muttering to himself, “I can’t believe it. back into a six-passenger Cessna and with death encouraged me to add to I don’t know what happened. It just gritted my teeth for our flight out. my lifetime “to do list.” pulled left, I couldn’t stop it.” The veteran pilot warned us that it Suddenly Roger appeared in might be a rough takeoff because of Barbara Michener lives in Boise.

JUNE 2004 49 Just Part of the Adventure of Living

inPHOTO BY RON GIBRONIdaho

Risky Roads Construction workers repair the damage done by a massive slide on the Banks to Lowman road in February 2004. Risky RoadsBy Jerry Foster LEFT: A construction worker is dwarfed by a pile of rubble five stories high at the center line of the highway. OPPOSITE: A car is impaled by a log car- ried onto the highway by a rock slide on State Hwy. 55 near Banks in early 2004. No one was seriously injured.

the Rekows met a logging truck on the river road. Mrs. Rekow pulled as far to the edge as she dared, and stopped. Heavy with logs, the truck couldn’t stop and couldn’t pull over enough to keep from hitting the carload of Rekows. Mrs. Rekow thought the truck was going to push her and the kids over the edge. It was only a glancing impact, but it shook the car and Mrs. Rekow. With both events fresh on her mind, my mom was taking it easy that evening. She eased the Buick around PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION hairpin curves at about ten miles-per- y mother and I were A few weeks earlier, when the old hour and accelerated up to twenty-five driving down the Banks Buick still had reverse, we had driven on on the straightaways. to Lowman Road one the same road. The sun was still setting We were more than half way to M spring evening in 1960 on the road, but it was dark in the can- Garden Valley, not far past the old when I was twelve. We yon. From the backseat window I saw— Carpenter Ranch, when rocks pelted the were taking the old Buick downriver what? Tire tracks leading straight up to road in front of us. That was common, to a mechanic because its reverse gear the edge? I pressed my nose and fore- and still is. Normally, we’d wait for them had gone out. The car shook and rat- head against the glass. “Look at that,” I to stop and then drive around the big tled in reverse but refused to roll. shouted. “There’s a light down there!” rocks or ease over the small ones. You In those days, the river road was We stopped and got out. Far below just couldn’t risk ramming a rock thirty-three miles of washboard misery, a we could see the mangled remains of a through your oil pan miles from the single lane blasted out of the side of a car lodged against a large boulder. The nearest phone and hours between pass- deep canyon. It followed the South Fork car had rolled most of the way to the ing cars. More rocks bounced and rolled of the Payette River out of Lowman and river, and a turn signal still throbbed in front of us, some of them basketball- climbed out of the piney canyon and faintly like a weak pulse. We had to drive sized. A small one hit the car and one arced upward over the broad, grass-cov- several miles to report the accident, but the size of a car engine slammed into the ered paunch of the mountain, then there was little hope. The driver undoubt- road and ricocheted into the shadowed turned in and out of the folds of the edly died before hitting bottom. canyon. Mom stomped on the brakes ravine-wrinkled uplands. A thousand feet That same year a sled runner had and looked uphill. She couldn’t believe below, the river surged silently through a sliced through Dorothy Rekow’s boot what she saw: A river of dirt, trees, and narrow bed of boulders. Far above, the and filleted her foot. Her mother stuffed car-size boulders was sliding, almost headlands were bare and rounded like her and the other three kids into the car free-falling, down the slope. the heads and stooped shoulders of aged and drove seventy miles down river to Three or four car-lengths in front giants, lined up east to west. the Emmett hospital. On their way back, of us, the road suddenly fell away. It

52 IDAHO MAGAZINE simply disappeared. patch for permission to lock the lines ders and drove back to the reclosure It sounded like the end of the run- open so that no electricity could pass switch and called his boss, Hugh Egbert, way when airliners take off. A ravine that through the switch. The night was cold, who arrived around midnight. They hadn’t been there seconds ago suddenly cloudless, and black as obsidian, and climbed over the mound together and widened, dissolving the road and eating Fraser knew it would be dangerous finally found the next pole. its way toward us like a rip tide, fast as a enough to repair the lines in a slide The next morning, linemen in teth- man could walk. area—he didn’t want to also worry ered harnesses disconnected the lines Mom struggled with the shifter, about electrocution. and freed them from the debris field. desperate to find the “R.” She moved the He drove slowly, inspecting the Remarkably, the lines were still intact. shifter’s red line back and forth across poles and lines. Mile after mile, every- The linemen tightened the lines between the gear until it caught. The car shud- thing looked fine until six miles west of the poles on each side of the slide, allow- dered. So did we. The transmission Lowman. There his headlights revealed a ing the lines to stay elevated and taut jerked and the faded-green Buick mountain in the middle of the road. despite the loss of the pole destroyed in burned rubber like a hotrod. I’ve won- Fraser shined his spotlight into the the rockslide. Power was restored to dered how many miles of tread my canyon. The pole was gone, but he Lowman by late morning. mom burned off the tires as she peeled couldn’t tell anything about the wire But there was still the problem of out in reverse, backing up the car that other than it was down. The sound of that mountain being where the road hadn’t backed up in weeks. gravel and rocks rattling down the hill used to be. The Boise County mainte- My mom was too short to see over returned his attention to the rocks piled nance budget couldn’t begin to handle the steering wheel, and I don’t know how five stories high on the road, and made the cost of cleanup, so Boise County she saw over the seat to back up so fast, him nervous. commissioners quickly declared the road swerving from one side of the road to But he had to find the next pole, so a disaster and appealed to the state, the other. I was ready to jump out when he climbed up through the maze of which in turn appealed to the feds for she stomped on the brakes again and slid freshly strewn boulders. At the top, the emergency funds. Because of the emer- to a stop. Whew! She scared me more beam of his lineman’s light revealed that gency nature of the job, the state award- than the slide did. this rock pile was a hundred yards wide, ed a contract without bid to Western Now, fast forward to Friday night, but he still couldn’t see the next pole. He Construction Co. of Boise, the company February 20, 2004. The phone rang at worked his way back through the boul- that had widened and paved the road More rocks bounced and rolled in front of us, some of them basketball-sized.

PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION Scott Fraser’s home in Emmett. It was dispatch. The twenty-year veteran Idaho Power lineman learned that Lowman was blacked out, and efforts to reset the reclosure switch that had automatically turned off the power had failed. Fraser got into his truck and headed upriver, wondering if a car had crashed into a pole. While fueling in Garden Valley, dispatch called again. Someone had reported a slide on the Banks to Lowman Road. Fraser continued upriver to the Lowman reclosure switch and called dis- LEFT: A track hoe works the 2004 Banks- Lowman road slide.

OPPOSITE TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: The top of the 400-foot scar illustrates how the moun- tain has fallen away; A bulldozer pushes rock toward the loader; A crew works a slide on White Bird Hill.

OPPOSITE BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: Workers break up a boulder that came down on Highway 14 in 2001; A slide covers Greer Grade on Highway 11 in 1984. guy’s wife. I had to put the most experi- enced guy on the job, and that was me. But you have to realize that I didn’t want RON GIBRON my boss calling my wife either.” I had to put the most experienced guy on the job, Ron used a track hoe to build the road because the pile was too steep and and that was me. But you have to realize that I rocky for a dozer. Over and over again, he didn’t want my boss calling my wife either. extended and retracted the twenty-seven- foot boom, raking out boulders with the between 1988 and 1993. one pushing dirt toward the road in one big teeth on the bucket. He kept looking This winter’s slide remediation was direction, and the other pushing dirt in at the scar above him, wondering if he like coming home to one of Western’s the other direction. Big front-end load- should be there, watching for the trickle foremen, Ron Gibron, who began his ers—Cat 980s—would load trucks on of pebbles that almost always precedes a construction career on this road sixteen each side of the slide. They figured a lot slide. “My heart rate was up because the years ago, a road that—until then—had of rocks would be too large to load, even biggest concern is not what’s on the road, changed little since being blasted out of for the 980s, so they would put a but what’s above it,” he says. “You can’t get the side of the mountain in 1917. hydraulic ram on the west side. What is away from the danger.” On his first day at this slide, Ron a hydraulic ram? Imagine a giant wood- But you can do everything you can sized-up the job. Dirt and boulders had pecker on tracks. With a thirty-foot neck to avoid it. So Ron and Ed Whitman, a given-way four hundred feet above the and a thick metal beak, it can jackham- subcontractor, decided to make sure that road—that’s equivalent to a forty-story mer Geo Metro-sized rocks into mere the scar had finished making deposits. building—and had piled debris fifty feet components. Days later, deep inside the Ron loaded a hundred orange sticks of high at the highway’s centerline. It cov- pile, they would find a rock as big as a dynamite into a backpack and they ered three hundred feet of roadway. full-sized pickup and so heavy both doz- angled their way across and up the ridge Over the next two weeks, his trucks ers had to work together to move it. No to the top of the scar. Ron taped the would haul away more than forty-two problem for the rockpecker. It would dynamite into bundles of six, sometimes thousand cubic yards of dirt and rock— chisel it down to size. twenty. He inserted the pencil-shaped enough to cover a football field twenty But first, someone would need to primers into the ends of the sticks, and feet high—and that doesn’t count the cut a pioneer road over the top of the Whitman and his crew rappelled over debris distributed down a thousand feet slide so the dozers could operate safely the edge and buried the bundles under of slope below the road. up there. Ron decided to do it himself. “I protruding boulders. Ron knew they’d need to put a cou- have the most experience of anyone up When the men were clear, Ron ple of Caterpillar D-8 dozers up there, here. I didn’t want to have to call some attached the lead wire to the battery-

54 IDAHO MAGAZINE RON GIBRON PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION powered detonator, and then held state highway maintenance engineer between Challis and Salmon. Jones said both buttons down until the red light Dave Jones. his highway maintenance men have a came on. According to Jones, the Banks to truck with a blade on it. They drive the “Fire in the hole!” he shouted, and Lowman Road is not the most trouble- rock patrol up and down the highway, released the buttons. Hell blasted out of some byway in Idaho, despite the mas- and when they come to rocks, they just the side of the mountain—fire, flying sive February slide. Measured in terms of lower the blade like a big hockey stick debris, and clouds of dust—followed by consequences, Highway 95 probably is and knock the rocks into the ditch. the familiar rustle of rock and soil rush- the most problematic because closures One of the most beautiful drives in ing down the slope. They blasted for two between White Bird and New Meadows Idaho is along Highway 13 between days and thought that ought to do it. require motorists to go five hundred Grangeville and Kooskia, where the But they were wrong. miles out of their way. The canyon is Harpster Grade clings to the side of a A dozer operator was just about to always calving off rocks in that area, but cliff as it drops from Camas Prairie climb up the pioneer road when another the maintenance guys just get a loader down to the Clearwater River. Like thousand yards of rock and dirt broke and clean it up. It is usually not enough Highway 55, it is sandwiched between a loose and clattered down the mountain. to close the road, Jones says, but when it cliff and the river. Jones rates this short Like Ron said, “You can’t get away from happens, it’s big, and affects a lot of traf- stretch, along with several others, as just the danger.” fic because 95 is the state’s major north- a notch above nuisance. It took fifteen days, sixteen dump south arterial. Rain and melting snow freeze in the trucks, and twenty-five workers to clear Highway 95’s troublesome twin is cracks of rocks, fracturing them even the road. Afterward, Ron returned to his the other north-south corridor, Highway further. Saturated soil provides less sup- old ranch house along the Salmon River, 55. The stretch between Banks and port on steep embankments, allowing just north of the town of Salmon, to Cascade, like the Banks to Lowman road, rocks to run wild like kids on the last spend some time with his wife, Tara, and was blasted out of the side of the moun- day of school. Rockslides occur more the kids. Two-week cleanups are rare, tain. The foaming rapids of the North frequently during wet winters, but they even in a state that averages sixty road Fork of the Payette River—so cherished can happen any time. closures per year. by rafters and sightseers—are the They’re just another part of the Even though rockslides are com- byproduct of highway construction on adventure of living in Idaho. mon in Idaho, blowing and drifting one side of the river and railroad con- snow, wildfires, and wrecks are more struction on the other. Jerry Foster lives in New Plymouth. likely to close roads, according to Closures on this stretch are quite serious because the road carries so much PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION PHOTO COURTESY OF IDAHO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION traffic. “My wife and I always carry a cribbage board when we travel Highway 55,” Jones says. “It generally only takes a few hours to clean up most slides, and there’s nothing you can do but wait.” Rocks on the road are an everyday occurrence on Highway 75 between Stanley and Challis, and on Highway 93 who we are

Brunswick Migration Confessions of an Old Boise Junkie By John Davidson

ublic houses, a.k.a. pubs, Psaloons, grog shops, taverns, etc., have long been central to the social fabric of towns and cities worldwide. They’re where ideas are hatched, deals made, thirsts quenched, and loves sparked—or lost. Literature would be lessened by their absence. Music would suffer a huge setback. And even though I haven’t had a drink in almost fifteen years (having drunk for a family of four for close to twenty), the thought of a town with- out pubs is as sad to me as the “Town Without Pity” is in the great Gene Pitney song. Speaking of pubs: does the name Old Boise Saloon ring a bell? Can you picture an elegant Brunswick back bar, along the lines of the majes- tic beauty Al Berro installed in the Bouquet at 1010 Main? If you can recall the collection of Idaho memo- rabilia once housed in the Old Boise,

the occasional beer mug sailing PHOTO

through the air, platters of hand- COURTESY carved roast beef, ham, and turkey OF BRASS INC./ROD BRASS The entrance to the Old Boise Saloon in 1969. The brass doors were rescued from the Carnegie Library in Caldwell. DAVIDSON

56 IDAHO MAGAZINE who we are

LEFT: The Brunswick back bar in the Turnverine Building shortly after it was moved from Caldwell.

BELOW: The main dining hall at the Old Boise Saloon. hundreds of old picture frames, a dozen National cash registers, love seats, senate desks, wooden post office boxes with miniature combi- DAVIDSON nation locks, hand painted tin signs advertising everything from Camel BRASS INC./ROD

OF cigarettes (“Nature in the Raw is Seldom Mild!”) to Zorn’s Corn COURTESY Remover (“Your feet will say PHOTO ...where ideas are hatched, deals made, thirsts quenched and loves sparked—or lost...the thought of a town without pubs is as sad to me as the “Town Without Pity” is in the great Gene Pitney song. offered up by a joyful Hawaiian got out that good money was being woman named Mama Ho, chances paid—and, more importantly in ‘Ahhh’”) and much more—they are pretty good you’re a native here, those lean times, bar tabs offered— employed artists and craftsmen to either that or you’ve lived in the capi- for what was often thought of as junk transform the one-time gymnasium- tal city a good portion of your life. back then, treasures started appearing cum-print-shop into a remarkable From 1969 to 1973 the Old in earnest. space housing their stellar collection Boise Saloon, brainchild of my Kenny Poe—not a tab man— father, Rod Davidson, and his part- hauled in Italian marble salvaged ner, Chas Allan was housed in the from the opulent restrooms of the Turnverine Building at the southeast old Pinney Theatre. Mom located corner of 6th & Main. My mom, Pat the stately brass doors that hung in Davidson, coined the name “Old the entryway of the Old Boise; they Boise,” which Joan Carley would later had been rescued from the Carnegie adopt for her holdings in the down- library in Caldwell before it was torn town core. Some think Joan C. came down. Ornate brass light fixtures up with the “Old Boise” theme, but that had illuminated the Idaho I’m happy to report it was Mom who Statehouse before they were replaced DAVIDSON proffered the moniker. with fluorescent tubes, once again BRASS INC./ROD

Together, Mom, Dad, and Chas cast their soft glow. OF scoured the state for antiques, trea- After they had gathered these sures, historical pieces. Once word signature items—not to mention COURTESY PHOTO

JUNE 2004 57 who we are

of memorable and historically-sig- tures, lease. Nothing concerning Until that strange decision was nificant Idaho pieces. The back bar, chronic headaches inherent with the made, the bar had stood among centerpiece of all, was a majestic bundle was mentioned. antiques and treasures in a room Brunswick fashioned from quarter- Dad just wanted the Brunswick. tailor-made for items of substance sawn golden oak. It had been trans- They talked about it, argued, went and grace. The Turnverine’s audito- ported around the Horn in the late back and forth like the horse traders rium, once the central gathering 1800s and survived the tough trip they were before finally reaching an spot of a bygone society devoted to from San Francisco to Silver City accord: Rod could have the back bar, health, music, singing, and civic without incident. Once installed at solo, for $5,000; or he could relieve duty, contained it nicely. the elegant Idaho Hotel, the massive Armond of the whole kit for $3,500. A glow emanated from the old piece from across the continent bore The Scotsman in my father prevailed. Brunswick, from the brass and mar- witness to the entire panoply of a Before Armond would sign the con- ble that surrounded it. Anyone who thriving western boom town: mangy tract he insisted they play three games has ever stepped into the Old Boise dogs, mud-caked miners, slick-talk- of pool for a hundred a game on the will remember its soaring ceilings, ing swells, and ladies of the night. table which Armond spent the bulk the beautiful balcony and stage When the mines played out and of his free time practicing. When fin- enclosed by wrought iron, the vari- the throngs dispersed, the Brunswick ished, Armond tucked the folding ous hardwoods used throughout. was transported to the Dewey Palace money in his wallet, signed the con- Somewhere on the walls, under lay- in Nampa. Then, remarkably, it was tract and left. He never returned to ers of paint and wallpaper, are char- moved from the Dewey Palace to the the TicoTico. coal sketches depicting scenes from TicoTico in Caldwell, remarkable So now our family owned a the real Old Boise: an ice wagon, the because the move took place not long Caldwell watering hole in a part of Natatorium on Warm Springs before the Palace burned to the town where gunshots and knife play Avenue, old City Hall. ground, destroying so many of the weren’t unheard of. It was 1968. treasures that were housed there. Before the ink was thoroughly dry, hirty-five years ago Mama Ho My father, the savvy Scotsman, Dad got a call at three in the morn- Tbent over the oven in the kitch- spotted the bar while plans were ing informing him that a former en of the Old Boise Saloon and lifted being drawn for the Old Boise. patron of the bar was in the morgue, a pan of hot, fragrant buns out of the Armond Villines was the proprietor shot dead by a cranky husband. The oven. She buttered one up for me and of the TicoTico, down the way from caller requested that Mr. Davidson said, “Here you go, boy, Mama takes the El Cruzero, the Crossroads; these come to Caldwell and take care of good care of you,” then laughed that bars served to slake the thirst of blue- some paper work. A bullet that laugh that made you smile to hear it. collar workers in Canyon County. missed the deceased lothario took Orville Rundell was there at the Full-time pool shark, part-time out a mirror on the back bar then huge ash cutting board, carving a raconteur, Armond was skilled in the lodged in the brick wall. Armond baron of beef, proffering succulent art of bank shots, wise in the way of rested easy for a change. slices on the end of saber-sized knife, deals. The one he struck with Dad Jake Jones took over the opera- “Here, you go Johnny, this will put was a beauty as it turned out. Dad tions at 6th and Main in the late meat on those bones.” Uncle Frank wanted the back bar, badly. Armond 70s, and pretty much destroyed the “Bugs” asked me to run next door to was willing to part with it under the original back bar by having it whit- General Restaurant and get him a condition that he take the whole tled it down to make it fit in a utensil for mixing sauce and later package—back bar, furniture, fix- room six sizes too small for it. handed me a plate of spaghetti that

58 IDAHO MAGAZINE who we are

Mama Ho and Orville at the serving line in the Old Boise Saloon.

made tents and saddles in there, awnings and all sorts of camp gear. The canvas and leather smells would greet me at the door and in a second I could imagine myself on a trip in the high country with one of the packers who frequented the place. They wore Filson coats and logger boots and they smelled a lot like McCall. Best of all there was a fascinating gizmo where the clerk would put orders into a brass cylin- der that hung over the counter on a taut line that ran to different parts of the building; he’d give a sharp yank on a cord and send it flying

DAVIDSON off with a whir and clack. It knocked me out, every time. Before we opened the Old Boise, BRASS INC./ROD OF five or six cars parked around 6th &

COURTESY Main constituted a crowd. Once

PHOTO those beautiful brass doors were opened to the public, though, things was like nothing I’d ever tasted. The Home at Fort Boise, turn their pen- changed. Attention was drawn to the smells that wafted out of that kitch- sion checks in for tabs, then motor architectural beauty of the Turnverine en, up to the offices where Dad and back to those stately grounds via Building and others around it, which Chas and Jackie Allan worked, were Yellow Cab. Taxis, fire engines, long might have helped stop the insanity wonderful, just like in the cartoons white ambulances with flashing red of laying waste to them. The urban where a wisp of scent enters the nos- lights: they were part of the Cactus ruination of our town was in full trils of some lucky soul and they’re experience back then. As the aging swing back then and I’m enormously swept away… vets were getting close to the end of grateful to visionaries like Mom, Dad, For a kid of fourteen, having the their hitch, the ambulance sometimes Chas Allan, and Joan Carley. We owe run of such a grand place was heaven. provided a final ride. them and all the others who helped I’d get sent over to the Cactus Bar to Orville or Frank would send me save what they could of our architec- deliver messages or fetch a thirsty over to Pioneer Tent and Awning for tural treasures. Far too many of our worker who’d eased over for a drink. an unusual item such as a cast iron great buildings perished during that In those days the Cactus was popu- cornbread pan or a ladle large enough ill-advised attempt to modernize lated with old soldiers who would for giants. Sometimes I’d go just downtown. The buildings in Old come over from the Idaho Vets because it smelled so good. They Boise fared pretty well actually. Most

JUNE 2004 59 who we are

The exterior of the Old Boise Saloon at the corner of 6th and Main streets. in 1969. The Pioneer Tent & Awning horse still presides over Old Boise. of the greats remain standing. watching my family, a crazed Since the Old Boise shut its bunch of Idaho natives, who doors, numerous businesses have fought, frolicked, laughed, and come and gone from that loca- loved in that space we inhabit- tion—bars for the most part, with ed for such a short, sweet time. the occasional restaurant thrown The card on a bouquet we in. The pub trade is tough. Those received from a well-wisher who make it deserve respect. The when we opened the Old Boise Cactus and Bouquet, Tom says it all. “Let it be said in the Grainey’s and Humpin’ Hannah’s, years to come that this was they’re the exceptions. Faye where legends roamed and phan- PHOTO Pengilly, of Pengilly’s Saloon, has toms prowled.” COURTESY

seen more of them come and go For me it will never be OF BRASS INC./ROD BRASS than perhaps anyone in town. Her anything less. memoirs would be a trove. DAVIDSON It’s all memories now, of John Davidson lives in Boise. idaho news

June 3-5 Special Olympics Idaho State Cambridge High School is a unique opportu- June 10-12 Weiser Valley Summer Games, Pocatello nity to buy, sell and trade new and antique Round-Up, Weiser Special Olympics State Summer Games at farm and construction toys and collectibles. Known for years as the "Best Show in Holt Arena. Over 750 athletes from over 40 Rodeo events at the Bull-A-Rama include bar- Idaho," Contact Weiser Chamber of teams around the state join almost 300 rel racing and team roping. Contact Commerce coaches for two full days of cycling, athletics, Cambridge Commercial Club, 208 257-3461 208 414-0452 powerlifting, basketball, and aquatics compe- titions. A picnic and victory dance round out June 5-6 Murphy Outpost Days, Murphy June 12-13 Timberfest, Sandpoint the festivities. Admission and Entry is Free. Pioneer skills and lost art demonstration, Held at the Bonner County Fairgrounds, Contact Special Olympics Idaho 208 323-0482 horny toad race and food. Fund raiser for the Timberfest celebrates Idaho's timber heritage Owyhee County Historical Museum. They with logging competitions, truck driving con- June 4-6 Western Days, Twin Falls have sheep dogs, soap making booths, horse tests, educational exhibits, arts & crafts, kids' Family-oriented event featuring a carnival, hair braiding events, wall branding sessions, activities and a Saturday night dance. two days of music, arts and crafts show, food pinecone basket weaving, a pie shop, and Admission is $5. Contact the Sandpoint booths and a parade. Held at the Twin Falls Indian dancers. Contact Owyhee County Chamber of Commerce, 208 263-0887 City Park. Free admission. Contact Twin Falls Historical Museum 208 495-2319 Area Chamber of Commerce, 208 733-3974

June 5 4th Annual Community Flea Market and Yard Sale, Challis June 5–Riggins Lower Main Street and Annual Bigwater Blowout throughout the community. Maps to individual yard sales Bring your friends and your family to will be available at the main experience the season's BIGGEST WATER! event at the 'Y' Intersection. There will be many raft companies with This is a community flea mar- ket. Find just about anything licensed guides ready and waiting to and everything you're looking take you on the river, as a minimum for! Contact Challis Area donation gets you an all day pass for Chamber of Commerce 208- rafting with any company. Other activi- 879-2771. ties include a Dutch Oven Cook-Off, an "After Raft Party" and entertainment. June 5-6 Hells Canyon Days Bull-A-Rama and Contact Salmon River Chamber of Antique Farm Toy Show, Commerce, 208 628-3563 Cambridge Festivities include a breakfast, square dancing, sidewalk sales, barbeque, car June 14-19 Gem County Cherry show, antique power equipment show, June 5-6 Horseshoe Bend Banjo Contest Festival, Emmett Cambridge Museum open house, Weiser River & Festival, Horseshoe Bend Cherry pit-spitting and pie-eating contests, Trail events. The Annual Farm Toy Show at Join us in Horseshoe Bend for the annual Horseshoe Bend Banjo Festival. Cash prizes quilt show, fun run, and carnival. The festival will be awarded for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places in also features a big parade, kids parade, coin Do you have a special event in your town in both the adult and youth divisions. Pre- scramble, entertainment bands, fiddlers, the coming months? Drop us a note with the registration for competing is recommended, food, expo, car show and lots more! Contact vital information and we’ll make sure friends however walk-ins are also welcome. Ride the the Gem County Chamber of Commerce and neighbors across the street and across Thunder Mountain Line railroad out of 208 365-3485 the state know about it. All functions must be Horseshoe Bend. Contact Horseshoe Bend free to the public, or darned cheap. Events Area Chamber of Commerce 208 793-2363 June 27 Ironman , Coeur d'Alene charging admission fees are welcome to pur- The Ironman Triathlon is a 2.4 mile swim, chase ad space to help sponsor this page. June 6 Warhawk Air Museum D-Day 112 mile bike and 26.2 mile run. The Coeur Invasion, Nampa d'Alene race features 80 qualifying spots Write: IDAHO magazine Color Guard, round table discussion with vet- for the Ironman World Championship race Calendar of Events erans who were there or in WWII. held annually in Kona, Hawaii. Contact 4301 W. Franklin Road Refreshments are served. Hours 10am to 2pm. Coeur d'Alene Chamber of Commerce Boise, ID 83705 Contact Warhawk Air Museum 208 465-6446 208 664-3194 Fax: (208) 336.3098 e-mail: [email protected]

JUNE 2004 61 june 2004 calendar of events

1-8/7 International Folk Dance, Rexburg 17 Shoot-out, Wagon Ride & Dinner Show, Ririe 1-30 Quilt Show, Council 18 Celtic Music Concert, Lava Hot Springs 1-30 Free Tours of Historic Bown House, Boise 18 Lead Creek Breakfast, Mullan 2 Motorcross, Preston 18-19 American Cancer Society Relay for Life, Nampa 2-4 Kootenai Tribe Pow Wow, Bonners Ferry 18-19 Car d' Lane Classic Car Show, Coeur d'Alene 3-4 Yacht Club Annual Yard Sale, Priest River 18-19 Idaho's Wildest Rodeo, Mackay 3-30 Idaho Falls Community Band, Idaho Falls 18-19 Snake River Story Swap, Idaho Falls 4-5 Greek Food Festival, Boise 18-19 Zoo Docent Rummage Sale, Idaho Falls 4-5 Circle the Wagons Banjo Gathering, Caldwell 18-19 Father's Weekend Craft Fair, Island Park 4-6 Horse Expo, Sandpoint 18-19 Dairy Days, Wendell 4-6 Post Falls Days, Post Falls 18-30 Idaho Falls Chukars Professional Baseball, Idaho Falls 5 Cowboy, Music, Art & Poetry Festival, Rigby 19 Jefferson Parade & Stampede, Rigby 5 D.A.R.E. 4th Annual BBQ, Caldwell 19 Sawtooth Relay, Stanley 5 Free Fishing day, Statewide 19 Skandinavian Midsommar Celebration, Idaho Falls 5 Teton Dam 26-Mile Marathon, Rexburg 19 Garden Tour, Mountain Home 5 Mud Bogs, Lewiston 19 Mario D'Orazio Scholarship Golf Tourney, Challis 5-6 Wing & Wheels Air & Car Show, Bonners Ferry 19 Demolition Derby, Preston 5-6 Clearwater Valley Amateur Rodeo, Kamiah 19 Pig-In-The-Park/Junebug Craft Faire, Harrison 5-6 Outpost Days, Murphy 19 2nd Annual Fundraising Hawaiian Luau, Pocatello 5-13 Old Fort Boise Days, Parma 19-20 Shoshone Silver Buckle Trap Shoot, Pocatello 10 Sunbird/Senior Ice Cream Social, Rexburg 20 Dynamic Dad's Day Celebration at the Zoo, Boise 11 Great Gatsby Garden Party, Boise 21 Bridge the Years/Ride the Wall, Enaville 11 Opera in the Plaza, Coeur d'Alene 21-26 National Oldtime Buckskin Congress, Caldwell 12 Timberfest, Sandpoint 22 Free Concert in the Park, Post Falls 12 Idaho City Arts & Crafts Festival, Idaho City 22 Anatone Days, Anatone, WA 12 Dolly's Subway Motorcycle Run/Pig Roast, Rigby 23-25 Rodeo & Parade, Newport 12 Dr. Doolittle Day at the Zoo, Idaho Falls 23-8/18 Ketch'em Alive (summer concerts), Ketchum 12 Live History Day/I-Farm, Jerome 24-26 Idaho Days, Franklin 12 North Idaho Timberfest, Sandpoint 24-26 Frontier Music Festival, Kooskia 12-8/21 Coeur d'Alene Summer Theatre 24-9/2 Great Garden Escape, Idaho Botanical Garden, Boise 12-13 Eagle Fun Days, Eagle 25-26 Idaho Days & Pageant, Franklin 12-13 Fiddle Fest, Post Falls 25-26 Teddy Roosevelt Commemoration, Worley 12-13 Thunder Over the Prairie Airshow, Hayden 25-27 Newport Rodeo Weekend, Priest River 13-9/3 Jazz at the Winery, Caldwell 25-27 Lewis & Clark Discovery Faire, Lewiston 14-19 Idaho High School Rodeo Finals, Pocatello 25-27 Mackay Rodeo, Mackay 15 Along the River Free Summer Concerts, Idaho Falls 26 Fall Creek Enduro Motorcycle Race, Swan Valley 15 I Made the Grade Bicycle Ride, Clarkston, WA 26 Relay for Life, Idaho Falls 15 Concert on the Green, Rexburg 26 Habitat for Humanity Pig Roast, Pinehurst 15-19 Cherry Festival, Emmett 26 Portneuf Greenway Riverfest, Pocatello 15-8/31 Snake River Concerts, Idaho Falls 26-27 Rodeo, Bonners Ferry 15-9/1 Boise Hawks Baseball, Boise: Memorial Stadium 26-27 Mt. McCaleb Arts & Crafts Festival, Mackay 16-19 Dairy Days, Meridian 26-27 Great American Train Show, Boise 17-19 Jazz in the Canyon Weekend, Twin Falls 27 Idaho Botanical Garden Tour, Boise 17-19 Lewis & Clark Symposium, Lewis-Clark State College 27-28 Senior Pro Rodeo, Horseshoe Bend 17-20 Gyro Days - Lead Creek Derby, Wallace 29 Summer Sounds at Park Place, Pend Oreille 17 Taste of Idaho, Idaho Falls 29 Relay for Life Golf Scramble, Coeur d'Alene 30-7/4 Idaho Quarter Horse Show, Caldwell 62 IDAHO MAGAZINE VISIT SOME OF OUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS IN SALMON, IDAHO SALMON, IN NEIGHBORS AND FRIENDS OUR OF SOME VISIT service directory service Marcus, Merrick, Christian, & Hardee, LLP (208) 342-3563 737 North 7th St. fax (208) 342-2170 Boise, Idaho 83702 email: [email protected]

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JUNE 2004 63 historical snapshot SOCIETY HISTORICAL STATE IDAHO COURTESY OF COURTESY PHOTO The Mud Wagon By Arthur Hart ur historical snapshot this dusty. It was an ordeal, but the only strung across the outside of the build- Omonth shows a classic Idaho alternatives, before the railroads came, ing tell us that our photo dates from “mud wagon” of the kind used for were to ride your own horse or walk. 1890 or later. That is when north more than fifty years on some of the This photograph, taken in Idaho got electric lights. The telephone roughest roads in the West. Unlike Lewiston soon after 1890, shows a wires overhead are from a decade earli- the elegant Concord coaches, built in stagecoach labeled “Idaho, Nevada & er. One Lewiston merchant had Concord, New Hampshire, the kind California Stage Co.,” with the added installed a local telephone system in used by Wells Fargo and other pio- letters U.S.M., telling us that the 1878, probably Idaho’s earliest. neer stagecoach lines, the homely mud owners also had a contract to carry Mud wagons like this, and even the wagon was built by local blacksmiths the mail. By the early ’90s, north more graceful Concord coaches, aver- and wheelwrights in small Idaho Idaho was served by the Northern aged only five miles-per-hour or less on towns. The Idaho State Historical Pacific, Union Pacific, and Great long hauls. There were stops every ten Museum has a very similar one. Northern railroads, but many interi- or twelve hours (hence the name stages) These tough little coaches had no or towns still to put on fresh horses, or to allow pas- springs. In their place was a suspension needed the stagecoaches to connect sengers to have a meal. system of heavy leather straps called a with each other and the railroads. The railroads would soon make thoroughbrace that allowed the coach Clues to the date of this picture stagecoaches a thing of the past, to sway forward, backward, and side- can be seen in the style of clothing although they still served some small ways, taking up some of the shock of worn by the passengers and the Idaho towns as late as 1920. bumps in the road. Needless to say, pas- bystanders outside the Raymond sengers arrived at their destinations House. This leading Lewiston hotel Arthur Hart is director emeritus of the considerably shaken, exhausted, and was built in 1879, but the electric wires Idaho State Historical Society.

64 IDAHO MAGAZINE

June

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