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The Gentlemans Drink Section 2 The Gentleman’s Drink 31 The Gentlemans’ Drinks Today, it’s very common to know what sort of wine one is purchasing in terms of taste and quality by looking at the label. It tells you the country of origin, the type of grape, who the producer is, and sometimes other details such as length of aging, etc. Much of that is regulated by the countries from where the wine originated. For example, in France, a specific type of wine is identified using an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee, or controlled designation of origin). It means that wine conforms to the conditions established by the regulations of the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO). The beginnings of AOC were started in the mid-19th century. The AOC in France is a very strict standard that a producer has to fulfill in order to obtain it. It’s based on the concept of terroir, which means “all the natural growing conditions of an area.” This includes soil, water, air, weather, micro- and macrobiotics in the soil, sunshine, temperature, etc., and also a sort of Je ne said quoi that represents an intangible influence of the grower and their decisions on how to maintain the vines and make the wine. Interestingly, Anglo-Saxons mistrusted the French concept of terroir, thinking it some sort of Gallic fancy. However, terroir does affect the way a wine tastes. Not only does a governing body like the AOC define the terroir for a certain wine, it also designates how it is made. This protects the traditions and consistency of the wine through time. When you buy a bottle of cognac, you know that the style and the brand will provide certain characteristics that are going to be unique because a number of factors like terroir, raw materials, and traditions will be maintained. The same is true in other countries like Spain, Italy, and Portugal. In Spain for example, the regulations are established by the Consejo Regulador. Today, AOC-type certifications are granted to various agricultural products, such as wines, spirits, and cheese. However, the concept of AOC did not really exist in the Georgian/Regency period, with the exception of port (and even that was short-lived). For the most part, wine was primarily classified by where it was grown (and in some cases, not even that), or it was given platitudes such as The Gentlemans’ Drinks ©2020 Justine Covington The Gentleman’s Drink 32 “finest quality” or “first growth.” There were exceptions, of course, as you will see, but by in large, spirits were advertised as, and gentlemen consumed, “claret,” “port,” and “brandy,” not “Château Haut-Brion,” “Warre,” and “Otard.” Claret…“England’s Wine” By far, claret was the most common wine shipped to England from the medieval period up to the late 17th century. The term “claret” is a derivative of the French clairet. Making Claret How Claret is Made Today According to the French AOC for Bordeaux Clairet, all claret comes from grapes grown in the Bordeaux region, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Merlot rouge, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. There are no minimums for a specific grape type. The Bordeaux region consists of several different sub-regions. Claret originated from the Graves subregion, on the left bank of the Gironde river, southeast of the city of Bordeaux; however, claret today can be made in any of the sub-regions. The process to make claret follows the basic winemaking steps explained earlier. Red grapes are pressed and macerated with the juice, but generally not for very long…about 24-48 hours, depending on the desired color and taste. This is just a guideline, though. If it’s been a hot year, the grapes will be smaller, meaning less juice, so the wine will color faster, requiring less time for maceration to achieve the desired result. The Gentlemans’ Drinks ©2020 Justine Covington The Gentleman’s Drink 33 Drop of Wisdom: The only difference between making a claret and a rosé is the maceration time, typically just a few hours for rosé vs. 24-48 hours for claret. In contrast, the maceration time for a typical Bordeaux red is 3-4 weeks. Alternatively, the wine can be pressed in a continuous system that keeps the wine in contact with the skins, then the liquid automatically runs off (under airtight conditions to protect the acid and aromatics). Once maceration is complete, if the wine hasn’t been pressed continually, it is then “bled off” in a process called “saignée,” which separates the juice from the skins. For most clarets, a process called chaptalization occurs. In this process, sugar is added to the unfermented grape must in order to increase the alcohol content. Back in the Day: The process of adding sugar to wine is as old as the Romans. References to it exist in French literature dating to the 1760s. Chemist Pierre Macquer discovered the chemical benefit of the process (increasing alcohol to balance the acidity of underripe grapes rather than increasing sweetness). However, it was French chemist Jean-Antoine Chaptal who, while under the services of Napoleon in the very early 1800s, advocated adding sugar to strengthen and preserve the wine. Aging may or may not happen, depending on the wine. If it is, it’s usually in large barriques for about a year. Sometimes, the wine is aged “on the lees” (you’ll learn about this later when we get to the duties of the cellar master), but it may also go straight to the bottle. The Gentlemans’ Drinks ©2020 Justine Covington The Gentleman’s Drink 34 Today, these processes are completed in stainless steel tanks. No wooden casks are used, for the less oxygen this wine comes in contact with (meaning less oxidation), the better. (More on oxidation later.) “Traditional” Methods of Making Wine While not specific to claret, a visitor to Toulouse in the 18th century observed the “traditional” methods of making wine in France, which likely would have been used by many growers, particularly smaller ones. The observer notes that very little maintenance is done to either the soil or the grapes on the vines as they grow. The grapes are harvested far too early and are crushed by foot in large vats, and the juice left for months in the open air, then poured into dirty and unseasoned casks. The resulting wine is extremely acidic and of very poor quality, typically sold locally. Back in the Day: Up until the 18th century, some wine makers would add lead to wine, which sweetened it and inhibited the growth of some bacteria. Although illegal, some makers were found guilty of is as late as the 1750s. These methods began to fall out of favor with producers who focused on quality (which you’ll read about below), but many continued this archaic practice until the late 19th century. Winemaking in the Early 19th Century In the mid-18th century and into the 19th, several recommendations and standards came to the fore regarding how to make better- quality wine. Unfortunately, many of these were only available to high-end makers who had either the type of grape or the right terroir to produce a quality wine. Jean-Antoine Chaptal, the Figure 1: Treading grapes at Lafite winery in 1854. chemist, published a book at the beginning of the 19th century that gave several recommendations for improving wines. In regards to vineyards and viticulture, he recommended: • Planting varieties that produce quality over quantity, and planting them in both soil and atmospheric conditions that support the grape • Pruning vines so that the grapes can develop properly • Spacing vines so to give them enough room for water, drainage, and sunlight The Gentlemans’ Drinks ©2020 Justine Covington The Gentleman’s Drink 35 • Not intermixing varieties of grapes when either growing or fermenting • Planting vines in rows to clearly separate the varieties (many vines were planted in “bunches” and not strung on wire as they are now) • Separating white and red grape varieties, with an effort to plant grapes that ripen at the same time. In terms of actual vinification, suggestions included: • Improved safety, such as making sure the level of “carbon gas” (carbon dioxide) does not build up too high during the fermentation process. Antonie-Alexis Cadet-de-Vaux, a chemist who wrote another guide based heavily on Chaptal’s, recommended lighting a candle in the fermentation room…if the candle extinguishes quickly, the doors and windows should be opened and the room evacuated. Included are instructions on how to help individuals poisoned with carbon gas. • Harvesting only those grapes that are ripe (very often, unripe grapes would be harvested with everything else) • Separating out green or rotten grapes and using those to make house wine (thus, wasting nothing); not macerating all grapes together, but doing it separately • De-stemming the grapes to make a more delicate or early-drinking wine The History of Claret Before the Georgian/Regency Era Because claret is so ingrained in the DNA of Englishmen, I think it’s worth mentioning how this came to be. Before the evolution of les bon vins (“the good wines,” or luxury clarets) of the late 18th century and later, claret was a dusky, rose-colored acidic swill. It became popular with the English in the middle ages after Henry Plantagenet, the future Henry II, married Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. Through her dowry, he acquired a dukedom in western France that included the city of Bordeaux and the surrounding wine-growing countryside. The wine trade began exporting to England in 1302 from St.
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