WILD FOOD TRADITIONALLY USED IN THE PROVINCE OF MADRID,CENTRAL SPAIN1

JAVIER TARDÂõO,HIGINIO PASCUAL, AND RAMOÂ N MORALES

TardõÂo, Javier, Higinio Pascual (Instituto MadrilenÄo de InvestigacioÂn Agraria, Finca El EncõÂn, Apdo. 127, E-28800 Alcala de Henares, Madrid; e-mail: [email protected]), and RamoÂn Morales (Real JardõÂn BotaÂnico de Madrid, Plaza de Murillo 2, E-28014 Madrid). WILD FOOD PLANTS TRADITIONALLY USED IN THE PROVINCE OF MADRID,CENTRAL . Eco- nomic Botany 59(2):122±136, 2005. This paper reports an ethnobotanical investigation, per- formed between 1999 and 2002, to determine the wild food plants traditionally used in the province of Madrid (central Spain). One hundred and twenty-three vascular species belonging to 31 families were at one time used as vegetables, wild fruits, in the making of beverages, as seasonings, or as other preparations. Wild vegetables formed the largest group, with hispanicus, Silene vulgaris, and Rumex pulcher the most frequently cooked vegetables, and Rorippa nasturtium-aquaticum and Montia fontana the most commonly used in salads. Also common was the consumption of asparagus and several species of climbing plants such as dioica, Tamus communis, and Humulus lupulus. Ethnobotanical novelties included Sonchus crassifolius, the young sprouts of which were used in salads, and salicina, used to make herbal tea. Some ecological and cultural aspects of the collection of wild plants for food are discussed, as well as the relationships between the food and medicinal uses of some species.

PLANTAS SILVESTRES ALIMENTARIAS USADAS TRADICIONALMENTE EN LA PROVINCIA DE MADRID, CEN- TRO DE ESPANÄ A. En este trabajo se exponen los resultados obtenidos en un estudio etnobotaÂnico, realizado entre 1999 y 2002, sobre las plantas silvestres usadas tradicionalmente en la ali- mentacioÂn en la regioÂn de Madrid, en el centro de EspanÄa. Se ha registrado el uso de 123 especies vasculares, pertenecientes a 31 familias, incluyendo verduras, frutos silvestres, plantas utilizadas para elaborar bebidas, condimentarias y otros usos alimentarios de menor entidad. El grupo de verduras es el maÂs numeroso, destacando por su mayor frecuencia de uso Scolymus hispanicus, Silene vulgaris y Rumex pulcher como verdura cocinada, asõ como Rorippa nas- turtium-aquaticum y Montia fontana para elaborar ensaladas. Igualmente esta bastante exten- dido el consumo como espaÂrragos de diversas especies de plantas trepadoras, como Bryonia dioica, Tamus communis y Humulus lupulus. Entre las novedades etnobotaÂnicas destacamos el consumo en ensalada de los brotes tiernos de Sonchus crassifolius ydeInula salicina como infusioÂn digestiva. Se discuten ®nalmente algunos aspectos ecoloÂgicos y culturales de la re- coleccioÂn de plantas silvestres, asõ como la relacioÂn entre los usos alimentarios y medicinales de algunas especies. Key Words: Ethnobotany; wild food plants; Madrid; Spain.

The Province of Madrid lies at the center of is mountainous, the peak known as PenÄalara Spain and harbors the nation's capital (Fig. 1). reaching 2,430 m. These mountains form part of It has a surface area of nearly 8,000 km2 and a Spain's Central Range, which runs from the population of some 5,500,000 inhabitants. The middle to the west of the . The majority (91%) live in the city of Madrid and remainder of the province has an average alti- the surrounding towns. tude of 600 m. Geologically, the north and west Though not very large in size, the region is of the region has oligotrophic soils developed on not topographically, geologically, or climatolog- plutonic (granite) or metamorphic rocks (gneiss, ically uniform. The north and west of the region quartzite, and slate), while eutrophic soils de- veloped on basic rocks (limestone, marl, or gyp- 1Received 23 November 2003; accepted 24 Febru- sum) are found in the east and southeast. The ary 2004. climate of the entire province is Mediterranean,

Economic Botany 59(2) pp. 122±136. 2005 ᭧ 2005 by The New York Botanical Garden Press, Bronx, NY 10458-5126 U.S.A. 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 123

Fig 1. Location of the Province of Madrid and of the villages where interviews were held. with a characteristic drought period coinciding can also be found as successional vegetation. with the higher temperatures of summer. How- However, on neutral and sandy soils in the cen- ever, strong variations exist between different ar- ter of the province, there are forests of Quercus eas in terms of annual rainfall, temperature, and ilex and large areas of scrub with Cistus ladan- the duration of the drought period. Mean annual ifer L. as successional vegetation. Finally, in the rainfall ranges from more than 1,000 mm in southwest, with its milder temperatures, there some of the more mountainous areas to less than are large areas of Pinus pinea L. and P. pinaster 400 mm in the southeast. The higher tempera- Aiton, which can also be associated with holm tures and the longest drought period are also oak. seen in this part of the province. Central Spain has been inhabited since ancient The diversity of environmental conditions has times. Man has transformed the landscape, fell- helped confer a very rich ¯ora and widely varied ing much of its original forest to make way for vegetation on the province. Indeed, the area agriculture and stock raising. The ¯oral diversity boasts 2,233 species of vascular (Morales of the territory and the different ways in which 2003), representing some 25±33% of the entire its inhabitants have exploited the natural re- ¯ora of the Iberian Peninsula and Balearic Is- sources available have engendered a rich popu- lands. Although the whole region belongs to the lar knowledge of the use of plants. Yet hardly Mediterranean ¯oristic region and is dominated any ethnobotanical studies have been carried out by evergreen forest, especially holm oak (Quer- in this region. Only one paper exists, and this cus ilex subsp. ballota (Desf.) Samp.), differ- deals with the ecological knowledge of livestock ences in climate and soil de®ne three phytogeo- farmers, including their knowledge of the plants graphical provinces. In the north and west of the used by livestock (Barrios et al. 1992). region, in the highest areas, forests of Pinus syl- Although the traditional Spanish staple diet is vestris L. grow. At slightly lower altitudes, de- based on agricultural and livestock products, un- ciduous forests of Quercus pyrenaica Willd. can til recently many wild plants were used as sup- be found. The rest of the region, though nowa- plementary foods. They were probably an im- days quite deforested, is dominated by Q. ilex portant source of vitamins and minerals, played subsp. ballota, although there are differences in an important role in times of scarcity, and were the accompanying vegetation as a result of dif- sometimes used as medicines. Presently, how- ferent soil types. On calcareous soils in the ever, with the great development of agricultural southeast and east, Q. coccifera L. and Q. fagi- and marketing techniques, it is easy to ®nd fruits nea Lam. can also be found. Scrub with and vegetables in markets throughout the year. spp., Rosmarinus of®cinalis L., and Salvia la- As a result, traditional knowledge of wild food vandulifolia Vahl, or esparto grassland with Sti- plants is quickly disappearing and, in most cas- pa tenacissima L. (sometimes also cultivated), es, survives only with the elderly. The aim of 124 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59 this work was to record which wild food plants longing to 31 plant families were recorded, rep- were traditionally consumed in this region and resenting 5.5% of the species of the Madrid ¯o- to determine what their uses were. ra. In terms of number of species, the most im- portant family was the with 31 men- MATERIAL AND METHODS tioned. These were mainly used as wild Ethnobotanical information was obtained by vegetables and for making beverages. The Ro- interviewing 132 people (age range 31±94 years, saceae, with 17 species, were mostly used as mean 68 years) from 60 outlying villages of the wild fruits or for liqueurs, whereas 12 species of Province of Madrid (Fig. 1). Since our intention the were used for seasoning and was to collect as much data as possible on al- making beverages. most-forgotten plant uses, the selection of infor- Most of the mentioned plants are native to the mants was biased. Nearly all were aged individ- Iberian Peninsula, with some notable exceptions uals with an empirical knowledge of plants who such as Castanea sativa, Prunus cerasus, and had lived and worked in the rural environment. Prunus dulcis, introduced from Eastern Almost all interviews were conducted during and Southwest Asia, and Robinia pseudoacacia ®eld walks. The interviews were not structured and Bidens aurea, from North and Central and involved no closed questionnaire. However, America respectively. These were more or less an outline of subjects to discuss was prepared. extensively grown in the past and nowadays are Conversations were directed with general and occasionally feral in the areas around villages. open questions to preserve interviewee sponta- Seven categories of food uses (i.e., consump- neity. All interviews were held during the years tion as vegetables, fruits, beverages, condiments, 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002. ¯owers, roots, and sap) were used to help ana- Whenever possible, conversations were taped. lyze the results. Some species were included in This was important to record the original ex- more than one category. For example, the young pressions of the informants, including, for ex- shoots of Rubus ulmifolius allowed this species ample, the local names of plants. Completed rec- to be included among the vegetables, but also in ords of the interviews are held in a sound ar- the category of fruits. Therefore, the total num- chive at the Instituto MadrilenÄo de InvestigacioÂn ber of species used for food was 123, but the Agraria (IMIA; the Madrid Institute for Agri- sum of all the species with their categories was cultural Research). A specimen of almost all the 143. plants reported was collected and pressed, and Regarding reliability of information, the fre- voucher herbarium specimens were prepared. quency of citation allows us to distinguish These were deposited at the IMIA and the Her- barium of the Real JardõÂn BotaÂnico de Madrid among usages that have been more important in (MA; the Madrid Royal Botanical Gardens). the rural life of Madrid from minor plants whose Photographs of the mentioned species were also uses have not been so widespread. However, it taken. should be noted that a number of usages are cit- In and plant nomenclature, Flora ed by only one informant. Although sometimes iberica (Castroviejo et al. 1986±2003) was fol- records of this kind have not been taken into lowed for the families included in it, and Flora account, many of them were considered for dif- Europaea (Tutin et al. 1964±1980) for the re- ferent reasons. First, some species are very rare maining families, except for the genus Matri- in the province and therefore used infrequently. caria, where the criterion was based on Bremer That is the case of wild Apium graveolens, Sor- and Humphries (1993). bus torminalis, or Ziziphora hispanica. Another important reason is that today a real loss of pop- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ular knowledge makes it dif®cult to ®nd a per- Table 1 lists the wild plants recorded as tra- son who knows certain minor uses of plants. We ditionally used as foods; it shows the species have considered the uses cited by only one in- ordered alphabetically by families, the most formant when they have been reported from an- common local names used, the popular use of other region for the same or other closely related the plant with its frequency of citation, and the species. That is the case, for instance, of the con- part(s) of the plant employed in each food use. sumption of rhizomes of Cynodon dactylon, the A total of 123 species of vascular plants be- use of ¯owers of Scolymus hispanicus as a con- 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 125  de roca'' (1) Popular Use (frequency of citation) serve dried ®gs (3),matizing for ``te aro- stewed (1) (coffee substitute) (2), rawa as snack (1) as a chewing gumherbal (1) teas (2) raw as a snack (4), stewed (2) stewed (2) raw as a snack (1) vegetable soups (1) salads (9) raw as a snackseasoning (2) for olives (38), to pre- herbal teas (3) stewed (2) salads (1) stewed (2) stewed (1) stewed (8), salads (5), drink salads (5) stewed (2), salads (1) raw as a snackherbal (2) teas (1) herbal teas (7) herbal teas (6) . ADRID M ROVINCE OF P latex ¯owers basal leaves, peeled basal leaves stems peeled tender leaves and stems raw as a snack (18), salads (1), leaves and stems leaves and stems bottom of stems stems ¯owered aerial parts basal leaves, peeled stems peeled young shoots, basal leavesbasal leaves tender stems and leaves salads (28), raw as a snack (5) young shoots basal leaves galls, basal leaves ¯owered aerial parts ¯owered aerial parts ¯owered aerial parts  silvestre Ân basal leaves  moruno  de campo, te verdolobo escobas Â, te  de caliza Â, te  de roca  ¯owered aerial parts herbal teas (2) Ð magarza, gamarza lampazo, hierba de los pegotes, te apio silvestre berra, berrera cardo setero, cardicuca hinojo cardo achicoria lechera te te te ILD FOOD PLANTS TRADITIONALLY CONSUMED IN THE 1. W ABLE T All. (146JT) manzanilla, manzanilla amarga ¯owered aerial parts herbal teas (21) L. (161JT) Miller (158JT) L. (48JT) Curtis (99JT) L. (33JT) L. (1941RM) achicoria, salmero L. (1937RM) ajonjera, sonjera, lijonjera, ajunjera, L. (1948RM) Lag. (207JT) L. (1954RM) DC. (227JT) L. (15JT) quijones, hijones tender leaves and stems raw as a snack (20) DC. te L. (1859RM) L. (2076RM) Bernh. (209JT) L. (1893RM) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used (Aiton) Sherff (226JT) PIACEAE STERACEAE Eryngium campestre Apium nodi¯orum Foeniculum vulgare Arctium minus A Apium graveolens Andryala ragusina Anthemis arvensis Bidens aurea Carduus tenui¯orus Scandix australis A Chondrilla juncea Chamaemelum nobile Cichorium intybus Jasonia glutinosa Inula salicina Inula montana Crepis vesicaria Hypochaeris glabra Jasonia tuberosa 126 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59 Popular Use (frequency of citation) snack (1) (1) stewed (1) salads (1) salads (1) stewed (3), raw asherbal a teas snack (11) (1) herbal teas (16) herbal teas (1) stewed (2) raw as a snackstewed (3) (70), salads (2), raw as a raw as a snack (10), stewed (2) salads (1), raw as a snack (1) salads (2), stewed (1) salads (5), raw as a snack (2) stewed (1), raw asraw a as snack a (1) snacksalads (3) (1) salads (1) raw as a snackraw (4) as a snackraw (1), as salads a (1) snacksalads (3), (4), salads stewed (1) (1) peeled ¯owersbottom of in¯orescences raw as a snack (5) condiment (saffron substitute) basal leaves basal leaves peeled ¯owers ¯owered aerial parts ¯owers ¯owered aerial parts basal leaves peeled Stems or basal leaves,basal peeled leaves, peeled tender parts of in¯orescencetender stems near in¯orescence, young shoots raw peeled as a snack (12), salads (1) peeledbasal leaves, peeled young shoots raw as a snack (1) basal leaves peduncle of in¯orescence basal leaves basal leaves basal leaves basal leaves . ONTINUED 1. C Ân ABLE T Äo, cardo ruso lecheras escoba, pan de pastor manzanilla manzanilla, manzanilla dulce manzanilla dulce alcachofa salvaje, cardo borriquen toba cardillo lechiterna, cardo lechero blanquilla, borraja lecheras, lecheros picapollo, salmero achicoria, majitos, canutos peduncle of in¯orescence Andrz. ex Besser (202JT) L. (94JT) Ð basal leaves salads (1) L. (111JT) Briquet & Cavillier (208JT) Boiss. (1891RM) (Willd.) DC. (1993RM) pajitos Weber (16JT) achicoria, lechuguillas, pajito peduncle of in¯orescence DC. (1947RM) L. (18JT) berbaja, tetas de vaca tender leaves and stems salads (6), raw as a snack (5), L. (2081RM) Pourret ex Willd. (42JT) L. (1837RM) Gaertner (1932RM) cardincha, cardo borriquero, cardo basal leaves, peeled stewed (23), raw as a snack (2), L. (1914RM) (Loe¯.) Schultz Bip. (1935RM) L. (2033RM) avellano fruits eaten raw or dried (5) L. (222JT) Hill (44JT) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used ETULACEAE Scorzonera laciniata Silybum marianum Scolymus hispanicus Lactuca serriola Mantisalca salmantica Matricaria aurea Matricaria recutita Matricaria discoidea Onopordum acanthium Onopordum nervosum Corylus avellana Sonchus asper Sonchus crassifolius Sonchus oleraceus Taraxacum erythrospermum Taraxacum obovatum Taraxacum of®cinale Taraxacum sp.pl. Tragopogon porrifolius B 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 127 Popular Use (frequency of citation) sucked (16) stewed (5) eaten raw (1) eaten raw (1) salads (58) basal leaves ¯owers ¯owers young leaves and stems young shoots stewed (26) young shoots stewed (32), raw as a snack (1) . Â- Ân ONTINUED Ârrago de Ârragos young shoots with leaves stewed (45) 1. C ABLE T Ârrago de culebra, espa Ârrago de zarza, espa Ârrago de nuez, espa ortiga, lupios, zaramango rragos de lupia pan y quesito amarillo,pan barelos y quesito blanco,berros rabanillo Hayek (206JT) L. Medicus (212JT) pan y quesito blanco ¯owers eaten raw (1) (L.) Sprengel (231JT) gayuba fruits eaten raw (1) Cav. (41JT) tamarilla young shoots stewed (3) L. (43JT) chupamieles, oreja mula ¯owers sucked (1) L. (1944RM) junco, unco basal part of stems raw as a snack (8) DC. L. (87JT) lechiterna latex to curdle milk (1) L. (1921RM) lupios, espa L. (1922RM) espa Miller (205JT) chupamiel, chupamieles, alcalcuz ¯owers L. (228JT) jara seeds eaten raw (4) Jacq. (95JT) espa (Moench) Garcke (86JT) collejas, conejuelas leaves and young stems stewed (70), salads (3) L. (12JT) acelga silvestre, espinaca, acelguilla basal leaves stewed (8) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used IOSCOREACEAE ORAGINACEAE RASSICACEAE ANNABACEAE ARIOPHYLLACEAE HENOPODIACEAE ISTACEAE UCURBITACEAE YPERACEAE RICACEAE UPHORBIACEAE C E B Anchusa azurea Echium plantagineum Capsella bursa-pastoris Diplotaxis catholica Raphanus raphanistrum Rorippa nasturtium-aquaticum Sisymbrium crasifolius C Humulus lupulus Silene vulgaris C Beta maritima C Cistus ladanifer C Bryonia dioica C Scirpus holoshoenus Tamus communis Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Euphorbia serrata B D E 128 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59 Popular Use (frequency of citation) (2) (1) chewed, sucked (9) raw as a snackstewed (10) (4) eaten raw (13) sucked (3) raw as a snackraw (11) as a snackraw (2) as a snack (6) eaten raw, dried (4),eaten roasted raw (2) (3) herbal teas (1) herbal teas (14) raw as a snackroasted (1) (1) eaten raw, dried (19), roasted (7) seasoning for olives, stewsseasoning (4) for olives (2) seasoning for olives (3) Äas'') rhizomes immature seeds leaves and stems ¯owers ¯owers immature seeds immature seeds immature seeds fruits (beech nuts ``hayucos'') ¯owered aerial part ¯owered aerial part fruits (chestnuts ``castan galls fruits fruits (acorns ``bellotas'') leaves and stems to season stewed potatoes (1) aerial part, leaves leaves aerial part, leaves . ONTINUED 1. C ABLE T Âo Äo Äa, carrasca Ân jo silvestre Âgano ¯owered aerial part to season pork (18), herbal teas Âbol, chupador  del rõ paloduz, paluluz almorta silvestre, alcaballares, titos mielga, alfalfa acacia, pan y queso tre alverja, alverjana veza, alverjana, alverja, alverjones alverja de culebra, alverjana, alver- te poleo castan haya maran roble, quejigo, rebollo encina, chaparra romero sielva, salvia tomillo salsero (Lange) intricata Âr. (214JT) al®leres, al®leritos, tenedorcitos bottom of immature fruits raw as a snack (3) (Desf.) Samp. (1913RM) Âr. (1928RM) al®leres, al®leritos, acuclillos bottom of immature fruits raw as a snack (1) L. (92JT) L. (100JT) Vahl (1605RM) (L.) L'He ballota Ehrh. (1874RM) hierbabuena de borrico, hierbabuena L. (1890RM) Ten. subsp. Willd. (2070RM) roble, rebollo fruits roasted (1), eaten raw (1) L. (2071RM) (L.) L'He L. (96JT) L. (1001RM) Hoffmanns. & Link. (1862RM) ore L. (2082RM) uva espino, uva de coril fruits eaten raw (5) L. (93JT) Lam. (88JT) L. (1953RM) Miller L. L. (127JT) L. hierbabuena leaves and stems to season soups (2), herbal teas Äoz (2047RM) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used subsp. Roth. (1910RM) L. (121JT) L. (122JT) Âpez & Mun Lo ERANIACEAE ROSULARIACEAE AMIACEAE ABACEAE AGACEAE G F Glycyrrhiza glabra Vicia lutea F Castanea sativa Fagus sylvatica Erodium cicutarium Erodium ciconium Ribes uva-crispa L Mentha arvensis Mentha pulegium Lathyrus cicera Medicago sativa Vicia sativa Robinia pseudoacacia Trifolium pratense Vicia villosa Quercus coccifera Mentha spicata Quercus faginea Quercus ilex Quercus pyrenaica G Mentha suaveolens Origanum virens Rosmarinus of®cinalis Salvia lavandulifolia Satureja cuneifolia 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 129 Popular Use (frequency of citation) seasoning (5), salads (1) stews, roasted lamb cutlets (7) tatoes stews (38) stewed (10) raw as a snack (1) eaten raw, dried (4) raw as a snack (4) seasoning for olives, meatseasoning (10) for olives, rabbit raw as a snackraw (1) as a snackraw (1) as a snackraw (1) as a snack (20) Äo- nes'') part near ¯owers) young shootsyoung shoots peduncle of in¯orescence stewed (53), raw as a snack (1) immature seedspeduncle of in¯orescence (tender raw as a snack (1) aerial part, leaves aerial part, leaves immature fruits immature fruits immature fruits immature fruits aerial part, leaves seasoning for olives, meat or po- . Äa, Èen ONTINUED Ârragos, es- 1. C Ân ABLE Äa, patitas de digu T Èen Äonero mature seeds (pine nuts ``pin Ârrago triguero, espa Ârrago de jardõ parraguera pipirigallo cabecilla sansero espa matacandiles, maricandiles, jacinto, pan de cigu mejorana, tomillo blanco, tomillo tomillo de a pie, tomillo malva malva, panar malva malva, panecitos (frutos) (Gand. ex segoviensis L. (103JT) ajo porro, ajo puerro bulb and bottom of stems stewed (11), raw as a snack (7), L. (34JT) espa L. (223JT) L. (772RM) menta ¯owered aerial parts herbal teas (1) (L.) L. (104JT) Guss. et Ten. (197JT) Pers. (203JT) grama rhizomes raw as a snack (1) subsp. L. (147JT) L. (98JT) All. (102JT) L. (150JT) L. (204JT) amapola tender leaves and stems stewed (1), salads (1) Wallr. (216JT) Link (2083RM) esparteras, berceo basal part of stems raw as a snack (1) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used Loe¯. ex L. (1938RM) tomillo salsero, tomillo, tomillo L. (1368RM) pino pin Bernis) Nieto Feliner (1870RM) ALVACEAE ILIACEAE APAVERACEAE INACEAE LUMBAGINACEAE OACEAE Asparagus of®cinalis Muscari neglectum P Thymus mastichina Allium ampeloprasum M Malva neglecta Papaver rhoeas P Pinus pinea Armeria arenaria P Cynodon dactylon Thymus vulgaris Malva nicaensis Malva parvi¯ora Malva sylvestris Stipa gigantea Asparagus acutifolius Thymus zygis P L Ziziphora hispanica 130 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59 Popular Use (frequency of citation) (5), spirits (2) after stored (8) eaten raw (8) eaten raw (7), raw after stored eaten raw (5), spiritsdried (2) (6) salads (31), raw asstewed a (5), snack salads (1) (4) eaten raw (6) spirits (19), eaten raw (12), raw eaten raw (1) eaten raw (20), spirits (1) eaten raw (6) eaten raw (3) eaten raw (7), jams (1) stewed (3) raw as a snack (14), salads (5) raw as a snackstewed (1) (28) Âllas'') fruits fruits young shoots peeledfruitsfruits fruits raw as a snack (2) eaten raw (1) leaves and stems leaves and stems leavesfruits fruits (``maõ fruits fruits (``endrinas'') raw as a snack (1) young shoots peeledfruits fruits fruits raw as a snack (6) basal leaves tender leaves and stems tender leaves and stems basal leaves . ONTINUED 1. C ABLE T Äa ®na, carrasca ®na fruits eaten raw (1) Âllo, maello mujera, zarza triguera acederones, acerones guindo almendro zarza escarabujera Escaramujo, tapacluos, espino excarambujero, zarza escarambujera corujas, perifollo, pamplina verdolaga fresa silvestre, mayetas maõ ciruelo silvestre, ciruelo borde endrino zarza, zarza triguera zarza frambuesa, frambueso romaza, arromalgas, azaderones acedera, acedera de conejo, vinagreras romanza, romaza, pucharaca acedera basal leaves raw as a snack (21), salads (10) Boiss. & Rumex papillaris Jacq. (2031RM) espino, majuelo fruits (``majuelas or majoletas'') eaten raw (47) Pau (1966RM) L. (215JT) L. (118JT) maran DC. (97JT) Boiss. & Reuter (1916RM) Miller (1873RM) L. (50JT) L. (2068RM) L. (1846RM) L. (46JT) L. (229JT) L. and L. (89JT) L. (123JT) L. (1964RM) L. (141JT) morrino, cerezo silvestre fruits eaten raw (6), spirits (1) (Miller) D. A. Webb (219JT) Tratt. (120JT) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used L. L. (1934RM) zarza escarambujera, zarza escara- Reuter (143JT) HAMNACEAE OSACEAE OLYGONACEAE ORTULACACEAE Prunus cerasus Prunus dulcis R Prunus avium Prunus spinosa Prunus insititia Rosa canina Rosa pouzinii Rosa sp pl. Rubus idaeus P Rumex acetosa Montia fontana Portulaca oleracea R Rhamnus alaternus Crataegus monogyna Fragaria vesca Malus sylvestris Rubus caesius Rubus castellarnaui Rumex intermedius P Rumex pulcher Rumex induratus Rumex crispus 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 131

diment, or the latex of Andryala ragusina as a chewing gum. Finally, it should be stressed that there was some ethnobotanical information that could not link with a single species, but with a group of different species of the same genus. In some cas-

Popular Use es the informants did not differentiate among species of several complicated genera (Taraxa- (frequency of citation) cum, Rosa, and Rubus) and used them in the same way. This has been re¯ected in Table 1 as

eaten raw (1) eaten raw (27), jamsraw (6) as a snacksalads (25), (1) stewed (1), eaten raw (5), spiritseaten (1) raw after naturaltion fermenta- (1) different species of the same genus, ``species pluribus'' (sp. pl.), but has not been taken into account for the numerical analysis.

WILD VEGETABLES Wild vegetables, with 66 species (54%), formed the most important group. This group also included the consumed unripe fruits or seeds (eaten raw as a snack) of four species of Malva, two species of Erodium, and the imma- ture seeds of several Fabaceae, such as Vicia fruits fruits fruits fruits young shoots peeled young shoots peeled raw as a snack (5) lutea and Lathyrus cicera. We also recorded the . use of the immature seeds of Pinus pinea, which has also been indicated for other Spanish prov- inces such as Segovia (Blanco 1998) and Alba-

ONTINUED cete (SaÂnchez LoÂpez et al. 1994). The tender leaves and stems of Scandix australis and Foe-

1. C niculum vulgare were used as snacks because of their characteristic aniseed ¯avor. Other ``®nger

ABLE foods'' quite frequently eaten were the tender T and peeled stems (near the in¯orescence) of Sily- bum marianum, the stems of several species of Taraxacum, and the peeled young shoots of dif- ferent species of Rubus and Rosa. peral silvestre, amostazo, mostazo gasajo zarza zarza, zarzamora Besides watercress (Rorippa nasturtium- aquaticum), the two species most frequently used in salads were Montia fontana and Chon- drilla juncea. The ®rst is an aquatic plant that lives in streams and springs in areas with non- calcareous soils in the north and west of the re- gion. Its small leaves and stems are very much appreciated in many regions from the west of the Iberian Peninsula (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Cuadrado 2000; Granzow de la Cerda 1993). Another species of this genus, M. perfoliata, is cultivated and consumed in salads in North Crantz (1900RM) Schott (2030RM) zarza, zarzamoraAmerica (Facciola fruits 2001). The second, eaten raw (12), jams (1) Chon- L. (126JT) chupadores, chupaperlas ¯owers sucked (1) L. violeta ¯owers sucked (1) Family/Species/Voucher No. Local Names Part Used H. E. Weber (1965RM) drilla juncea, is a widespread perennial species Crantz (1849RM) that very frequently lives as a weed among ce- real crops. When a plant is cut, young white shoots sprout from the roots. The blanched IOLACEAE

CROPHULARIACEAE sproutings and leaves were collected and tradi- Sorbus torminalis Sorbus aria V Rubus lainzii Rubus sp. pl. Rubus ulmifolius S thapsi Viola odorata tionally eaten as salads when cereal crops were 132 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59 weeded in early spring. This species was also rado 2000; Casana 1993; GalaÂn 1993; Granzow consumed in the same way in other provinces of de la Cerda 1993; GuzmaÂn 1997; MartõÂnez-Li- Central Spain (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Cua- rola et al. 1997; Mesa 1996; SaÂnchez LoÂpez et drado 2000; SaÂnchez LoÂpez et al. 1994). Anoth- al. 1994; Triano et al. 1998) and in other Med- er wild vegetable of the same family, and with iterranean countries such as Morocco (Tanji and a very similar use to C. juncea, was Sonchus Nassif 2002) and Italy (Arcidiacono et al. 1999). crassifolius, an endemic species of Central Spain The consumption of its cooked ¯eshy roots has that lives in limy and rather saline soils. The use also been reported (Bailey 1933; Facciola 2001), of this species in the southeast of the Province and it has been employed as a coffee substitute of Madrid (and, as also ascertained, in the near- (Kunkel 1984). The leaves and young stems of by provinces of Cuenca and Toledo) has never Silene vulgaris were traditionally eaten in ome- before been reported. lettes or with scrambled eggs and also as a gar- Among the most frequently used wild vege- nish for potaje, another typical Spanish dish tables in Central Spain are species that are eaten with stewed chickpea, beans, rice, and cod, often cooked. EspaÂrrago triguero, Asparagus acuti- consumed during Lent. The use of this species folius, is a wild asparagus whose young shoots has been also reported in other regions of Spain are usually eaten in omelettes or with scrambled (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Cuadrado 2000; Cas- eggs. We also recorded the traditional and wide- ana 1993; GalaÂn 1993; GuzmaÂn 1997; MartõÂnez- spread use of another three species popularly Lirola et al. 1997; Mesa 1996; Mulet 1991; SaÂn- considered to be wild asparagus (it should be chez LoÂpez et al. 1994; Triano et al. 1998; Verde remembered that asparagus means ``young et al. 1998; Villar et al. 1987) and in other Med- shoot'' in Latin): Bryonia dioica, Tamus com- iterranean countries (Arcidiacono et al. 1999; munis, and Humulus lupulus (all climbing spe- Cerne 1992; Ertug 2000; Pieroni 1999). Though cies), belonging to three different families but not as frequently as Silene vulgaris, romaza (Ru- consumed in the same way and with similar mex pulcher) was also stewed in potaje in some names (variations of espaÂrragos). According to villages of the east of the Province of Madrid. Font Quer (1990), the young shoots of the ®rst Another wild vegetable often used in the past, two species were used both as food and for their especially in times of shortage, was the well- medicinal properties as early as the days of known milk thistle (Silybum marianum). Al- Dioscorides (1st century A.D.). In recent times, though different parts of the plant were eaten in the same uses have been also reported for Bry- different ways, the peeled and cooked basal onia (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Cuadrado 2000; leaves were the most frequently used parts. This Bonet and ValleÁs 2002; Fajardo et al. 2000; Mu- plant was also consumed in other regions of let 1991; Verde et al. 2001; Villar et al. 1987), Spain (GalaÂn 1993; GuzmaÂn 1997; Verde et al. and for Tamus (Blanco and Cuadrado 2000; 1998) and in other Mediterranean countries Casana 1993; Fajardo et al. 2000; Mesa 1996) (Abu-Rajouh 1996; Facciola 2001). in other regions of Spain. The ®rst of these spe- Armeria arenaria, Carduus tenui¯orus, Ero- cies is also similarly used in Italy (Pieroni 1999), dium ciconium, Erodium cicutarium, Muscari while the second is used in , Italy, and neglectum, Quercus coccifera (galls), Rumex in- Turkey (Coupland 1989; Facciola 2001). termedius, Stipa gigantea and Vicia lutea were However, the most popular species in the also used as wild vegetables, but no references Province of Madrid, as shown by their high fre- to them could be found in the literature. quency of citation (Table 1), were Scolymus his- panicus (cardillo) and Silene vulgaris (colleja). WILD FRUITS The peeled basal leaves of the former were This group, with 29 species (24%), is the sec- boiled and then fried lightly in olive oil with ond largest in terms of the number of species garlic to be served as a garnish for cocido, a cited. The most frequently eaten fruits in the re- traditional Spanish dish with stewed chickpeas, gion were those of Crataegus monogyna, and potatoes, and meat. They were also consumed those of different species of the genera Rubus lightly fried with garlic and cured ham and and Rosa. These fruits are known to have a high sometimes with hard-boiled or scrambled eggs. vitamin content (Font Quer 1990) and they were This species is eaten in a similar way across probably used for this very reason. Today, with much of Spain (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Cuad- many types of fruit commercially available year- 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 133 round, only the fruits of a few species of Rubus, The use of Inula salicina to prepare infusions mainly R. ulmifolius, are collected. in the north of the province, and of Ziziphora Widespread in Spain, and very important in hispanica in the east, has never before been re- the past, especially in times of scarcity, is Quer- ported. cus ilex subsp. ballota. Its fruits (acorns, known Among the plants used to prepare liqueurs, as bellotas) were usually consumed raw, al- the most popular was Prunus spinosa. By soak- though they were sometimes roasted. ing its fruits in anisette with a few coffee grains, Some species, such as Malus sylvestris or people would prepare pacharaÂn, a liqueur very Prunus spinosa, whose fruits are often unpalat- popular in much of Spain. Other Rosaceae spe- able when eaten raw, were stored for several cies whose fruits were used to make liqueurs months, a process that allowed them to sweeten. were Prunus cerasus, Malus sylvestris, and Sor- They were then eaten during the winter, when bus aria. No references to this use could be there was not so much fresh fruit as there is found for the last two species. today. Finally, two informants cited the use of Ci- The seeds of Cistus ladanifer (jara) were eat- chorium intybus as a coffee substitute. The use en raw as a snack; this use has also been re- of the roasted root of cultivated forms of chicory ported from the west of Spain by Blanco and for this is well known (Coupland 1989; Facciola Cuadrado (2000). According to Facciola (2001), 2001; Font Quer 1990; Launert 1982), but not its seeds have been ground into ¯our and used of the dry basal leaves, as our informants men- for making cakes and breads. This last use has tioned. also been reported from Morocco (Rivera and OboÂn 1991). CONDIMENTS,COLORING, AND The fruits of Quercus pyrenaica, Rhamnus PRESERVATIVES alaternus, Rubus castellarnaui, and R. lainzii This group, with 12 species (10%), consisted were also used, but no references were found in mainly of plants from the Labiatae (Lamiaceae) the literature. family. The most frequently used was Thymus zygis, especially to ¯avor olives, but also to sea- BEVERAGES:INFUSIONS AND SPIRITS son meat or stewed potatoes. Another species of Another important group, with 22 species the same family, Origanum virens, was widely (18%), consists of plants used to prepare bev- used as a condiment for pork, mainly in chorizo erages, including infusions, liqueurs, and coffee (spicy dry pork sausage) and in other meat dish- substitutes. es. In Madrid, one of the infusions (or herbal The seasoning of olives was a very important teas) most frequently used was manzanilla activity in rural Spain. There are many different amarga, Chamaemelum nobile, but other man- ways to do this and many plants can be used, as zanillas were made from Matricaria recutita and shown in Table 1. One of the species most fre- M. aurea. M. recutita, the famous camomile tea quently used was Foeniculum vulgare. This plant, grows wild in some areas of the region plant was also said to be used to preserve dried and also can be seen cultivated in gardens. M. ®gs (Ficus carica). A sack of ®gs was placed in aurea is an Iberian and North African endemic boiling water containing F. vulgare and then species more widespread in the center and south quickly removed before it was dried for use as of the region. dried fruit. Te de roca (Jasonia glutinosa) was also a One informant made reference to the use of very popular herbal tea, not only in Madrid but Scolymus hispanicus ¯owers as a food condi- also in other Spanish regions, such as Aragon ment and saffron substitute. The same use was and Catalonia. It was often regarded as a tasty, reported by Clusius in 1576 from the Province aromatic beverage better than true tea (Blanco of Salamanca (central Spain), and was also was 1998; Bonet and ValleÁs, 2002; Font Quer 1990; cited by Niebuhr (1970). Mesa 1996; Mulet 1991; Pardo de Santayana 2003; SaÂnchez LoÂpez et al. 1994; Villar et al. OTHER USES (FLOWERS SUCKED OR 1987). This species grows on calcareous rocks CHEWED,ROOTS,LATEX) in Spain and at a few sites in France and Mo- The ¯owers of nine species (7%) were re- rocco. ported sucked or chewed. The ¯owers of Anchu- 134 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59

ECOLOGICAL AND CULTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF WILD FOOD GATHERING IN CENTRAL SPAIN

Of the 123 species used for food purposes, 70% were herbaceous plants, 19% were shrubs, and 11% were trees. Figure 2 shows most species used as vegetables were her- baceous plants (60), while ®ve were shrubs and only one was a tree (the immature fruits of Pinus pinea). Fruits and seeds were gathered mainly Fig. 2. Number of species of each category of from shrubs and trees, but also from two species food use and growth habit. of (Fragaria vesca and Sily- bum marianum). Beverages, especially herbal teas, were mainly made from herbaceous plants, whereas liqueurs were made from the fruits of sa azurea were commonly sucked by children to trees or shrubs. For food seasoning, only shrubs reach their nectarÐhence its most common pop- and herbaceous plants were used, six species of ular name of chupamiel (honeysuck). Viola odorata, Trifolium pratense, Echium plantagi- each. Finally, all the ¯owers, roots, or latex used neum, and Digitalis thapsi were reportedly used came from herbaceous plants except the ¯owers in the same way, though this is the ®rst time for of Robinia pseudoacacia. last two species of this list. Most of the species used are found in second- The consumption of the fried ¯owers of the ary ; only a few live in natural forests. North American tree Robinia pseudoacacia is Many are weeds of cereal crops and were usu- well known (Facciola 2001; Pieroni 1999), but ally exploited when crops were hand-weeded. in Madrid and other regions of Spain (Blanco Nowadays, with our modern agricultural tech- 1998; Fajardo et al. 2000; Triano et al. 1998) the niques such as deep plowing or the use of her- ¯owers were eaten raw. Other species cited were bicides, these plants only can live away from Capsella bursa-pastoris, Raphanus raphanis- cultivated land. They are therefore less abundant trum and Diplotaxis catholica. No references than ®fty years ago. were found in the literature for the last species. As for the cultural implications of wild food The subterranean organs of only three species plant gathering, not all these species had the (2.4%) were consumed: the sweet roots of Glyc- same importance in these past diets. The results yrrhiza glabra, the bulbs of Allium ampelopras- show that many plants were used as snacks, um, and the rhizomes of Cynodon dactylon. mainly by children. They were probably a good Finally, two species (1.6%) were used for source of vitamins and minerals, but have be- their milky sap (latex). The latex of Euphorbia come less important now. Some wild fruits serrata was employed to curdle milk and make (Rosa, Rubus, Crataegus) and vegetables were curd. Shepherds would add a few drops of this also eaten raw as snacks (Scorzonera, Taraxa- plant to hot milk while stirring. This use has also cum, Scandix). However, many other species been reported from other regions of Spain, such as Castilla-LeoÂn, Castilla-La Mancha, and An- played a signi®cant role as supplementary foods dalusia (Blanco 1998; Blanco and Morales, until not so many years ago. They were used to 1995; MartõÂnez-Lirola et al. 1997). The milky vary cuisine, or to ¯avor, garnish, or stretch out latex of the roots of Andryala ragusina was used other foods (see above). Finally, many others as a chewing gum. Although this has never be- were very important as emergency foods in fore been recorded, there are some references to times of scarcity, such as Silybum marianum or other species of the same family (Asteraceae), Cichorium intybus. The informants mentioned such as Sonchus oleraceus, used by the Maoris that some species were only consumed during of New Zealand, and Tragopogon porrifolius, the years of shortage after the Spanish Civil War, used by native Americans of British Columbia in the 1940s (e.g., the leaves of Papaver rhoeas (Facciola 2001). or Arctium minus). 2005] TARDIÂO ET AL.: WILD FOOD PLANTS OF MADRID 135

RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FOOD AND expected for a region with an important major MEDICINAL USES city (Madrid) and many surrounding towns. Un- Many wild food plants were also used for me- til recently, many wild plants were used as sup- dicinal purposes. According to Etkin (1994), plementary food. However, most of this folk use ``wild foods are consumed not only for caloric of wild food plants survives only in the memory value, but also for other nutrient and pharma- of the elderly, and is now in danger of vanishing. cologic potential.'' Several of the species re- This paper, the ®rst of its type for this region, ported by our informants maintained their me- tries to collect record and disseminate this tra- dicinal uses until not so many years ago, such ditional knowledge in order to help maintain lo- as Origanum virens, Thymus mastichina, Thy- cal cultural traditions and facilitate research into mus vulgaris, and Rosmarinus of®cinalis. Other new food sources. clear examples are those plants used to make In the context of increasing interest in the infusions or liqueurs. Initially, they were used health potential of foods, re¯ected in the grow- for their medicinal properties, but in most cases ing literature on ``functional food,'' ``pharma- they eventually became considered simply as food,'' or ``nutraceuticals'' (Etkin 1996), studies beverages. on wild food plants, their nutritional and medic- Modern medicine has contributed to the rapid inal qualities, and their potential as new alter- decrease in popular knowledge of medicinal native crops may be very useful. plants. This is probably why many species in the ACKNOWLEDGMENTS past known as medicinal plants are nowadays We wish to thank all the informants that collaborated in this work, known only as wild food. Such is the case of who quite freely shared with us their botanical knowledge. We thank the two species quite widely used as wild asparagus people of Plants for a Future for use of their excellent ethnobotanical in central Spain, Bryonia dioica and Tamus com- database, which was very useful for making comparisons of results. We also thank Dr. Manuel Pardo de Santayana (Royal Botanical Garden of munis. These have been known to have diuretic Madrid) for helping us with the database management, Dr. MarõÂa Luisa properties since ancient times, having been re- Tello and Dr. Luis RamoÂn-Laca (Madrid Institute for Agrarian and Food ported by Dioscorides in the ®rst century (Font Research) for revising the manuscript and technical support, and, ®nally, the anonymous reviewers and editor of Economic Botany. This work was Quer 1990). Probably, the current use of these ®nanced by the ConsejerõÂa de EducacioÂn de la Comunidad de Madrid young shoots as food stems from this early me- through research projects 07B/0009/98 and 07M/0027/00, and by the dicinal use. Etkin (1996) mentions a large num- IMIA (FP00/03DR). ber of plants used today as food that were ®rst LITERATURE CITED appreciated for their medicinal qualities. The food use of Silybum marianum seeds, al- Abu-Rajouh, K. S. 1996. A study of the nutrition val- though cited by only one informant in this work, ue of milk thistle seeds Silybum marianum has also been reported in Jordan (Abu-Rajouh L.Gaertn. Doctoral thesis, University of Jordan. Arcidiacono, S., P. Pavone, and C. Salmeri. 1999. 1996). This author reports that the oil of these Le erbe commestibili dell'Etna. Data version Feb- seeds is rich in linoleic acid and polyunsaturated ruary 1999. Available at http://www.unict.it/ fatty acids, and thus could be included among dipartimenti/biologia࿞animale/webnatur/pavone/ the plant oils with dietary and health applica- erbecomm.htm. tions. Bailey, L. H. 1933. The standard cyclopedia of hor- As mentioned above, many wild plants were ticulture. Macmillan, London. Barrios, J. C., M. T. Fuentes, and J. P. Ruiz. 1992. probably a good source of vitamins and minerals El saber ecoloÂgico de los ganaderos de la Sierra de for children in the past, when cultivated fruits Madrid. Comunidad de Madrid, Madrid. and vegetables were not so available. Other bit- Blanco, E. 1998. Diccionario de etnobotaÂnica sego- ter tasting species such as Arctium minus and viana. Ayuntamiento de Segovia, Segovia. Cichorium intybus, widely consumed in the past, Blanco, E., and C. Cuadrado. 2000. EtnobotaÂnica en were used to stimulate the appetite and the Extremadura. Estudio de La Calabria y La Siberia extremenÄas. Emilio Blanco y CEP Alcoba de los ``functions of the liver.'' Montes, Madrid. Blanco, E., and R. Morales. 1995. Las plantas cua- CONCLUSIONS jaleche. Quercus 111:10±11. Bonet, M. A., and J. ValleÁs. 2002. Use of non-crop This study shows that a rich traditional food vascular plants in Montseny biosphere reserve knowledge of plants lingers on in the Province (Catalonia, Iberian Peninsula). International Journal of MadridÐin fact, much greater than might be of Food Sciences and Nutrition, 53:225±248. 136 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 59

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