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Carbonic Maceration Reds 30 GREAT RED BUYS 30 GREAT RED BUYS My top 30: carbonic maceration reds A simple technique for simplistic wines? Not so nowadays, says Andy Howard MW, who discovered there was still plenty to learn when he set out to find his 30 top examples of red wines made using this well-known, but often misunderstood whole-grape winemaking method Ask mosT wine enthusiasts what the term of wine. it is only recently that forward- ‘carbonic maceration’ means to them, and the thinking winemakers are finding ways to vast majority will think Beaujolais – and adapt mC to craft some fascinating wines. almost certainly not the top-tier, cru end of mC can only be used at the start of the the Beaujolais market. in reality, this is a fermentation process, producing up to two process that is both intriguing and highly degrees of ethanol. Grapes must be intact and character from our willamette Valley and ‘Grapes must be intact and healthy, with scientific, yet misunderstood by many. Having healthy, with hand-harvesting of whole almost “enhances” its youthful charm.’ been asked by Decanter to review wines made bunches a key element in the vineyard. mC has The impact is not just about flavour and hand-harvesting of whole bunches a key using carbonic maceration, it quickly became a number of very positive effects on the aroma. Bergström notes: ‘There is a textural apparent how little i knew about the finished wine, ranging from accentuating element that whole-cluster fermentation and element in the vineyard’ intricacies of the process. The more i delved different aromatic elements to the conversion carbonic fermentation lends to the wine.’ As a into the subject, the greater my appreciation (and reduction) of malic acid; increasing levels result, Bergström wines has now developed its of the differences and variations found in Andy Howard MW is a of glycerol; softer tannin extraction; and own protocol for fermentation of its top-tier Above: carbonic a great combination of ripeness, generosity of these wines from producers around the world. Decanter contributing bright, ripe, juicy flavours with a freshness Pinot Noir wines. maceration involves aromatics and fruit, along with an underlying in simple terms, carbonic maceration or editor and DWWA that makes wines approachable early on. in otago, New Zealand, Akitu owner the fermentation of freshness and lightness. macération carbonique, referred to below as judge. He runs his own scientific studies have shown that glycerol can Andrew Donaldson feels the use of mC in uncrushed grapes or interestingly, it is not just New world ‘mC’, relates to the process where whole wine consultancy increase by a factor of 10, with a halving of Pinot Noir vinification is important. ‘There are whole bunches winemakers who are experimenting with mC. grapes, protected from oxygen (normally Vinetrades, and was malic acid levels and increase in pH of 0.2. lots of phenolics and sugars in the stems that An increasing number of carbonic maceration under a veil of carbon dioxide) undergo an formerly a retail wine aren’t found in the grape skin or berry. By Riojas are starting to appear – a method intra-cellular fermentation due to enzymatic buyer for 30 years Serious intent harnessing these you can add to the phenolic commonly used in the past. These could reactions without the action of yeasts. However, carbonic maceration should not be stability of the resulting wine.’ The use of mC hardly be more different to the classical image Although this technique has been used, exclusively associated with light, fruity, and whole bunches ‘encourages a slower of an oak-driven Rioja, yet many are of high often inadvertently, for thousands of years, it easy-drinking wines, as the technique is now build-up of fermentation temperature, quality and well worth seeking out. was the 1930s experiments of michel Flanzy, a being applied to wines with much higher resulting in improved tannin polymerisation Carbonic maceration has had a bad press in French scientist in Narbonne, which showed quality aspirations. Traditionally associated and development of exciting aromatic recent years but, despite being associated with mC’s potential. it was embraced by producers with the Gamay grape and Beaujolais, mC is compounds’, he says. with age, Akitu Pinot the cheaper end of the Beaujolais market, it is in the Beaujolais-boom years, becoming being embraced by winemakers in spain, Noir develops a complex, exotic melange of rapidly becoming a serious tool in the kit for synonymous with light, quaffable reds made Australia, south Africa and the Us, with great spicy flavours and aromas. innovative producers around the world. Their from the Gamay grape, which exhibited results being achieved using syrah, Grenache, Giles Cooke MW is focusing his south skilled winemaking uses carbonic maceration tell-tale aromas and flavours of pear-drops Cinsault, Pinotage and Pinot Noir. Australian winemaking efforts on innovative, to add complexity, accentuate aromas and and (when taken to excess) bubblegum. Josh Bergström, general manager and exciting Grenache-based wines. Cooke says mC flavours, while helping manage both acidity Unfortunately for both the region and the winemaker at Bergström wines in oregon, is brings ‘a framework to the Grenache, adds and tannins. These are wines to savour, enjoy, process, consumers moved away from flavour an advocate: ‘mC brings a lovely and complex seasoning and restraint’. All of the wines using and contemplate how science and nature are profiles more akin to a sweet shop than a glass aromatic experience that takes the fresh fruit this technique in his Thistledown range show being combined using this technique. ➢ 22 | July 2019 • DECANTER DECANTER • July 2019 | 23 30 GREAT RED BUYS Akitu, A1, Central Bergström, Domaine de la Côte, Chamonix, Greywacke Domaine Coudert, Domaine Le Cazal, Otago, New Zealand Cumberland Reserve Memorious Pinot Pinotage, Franschhoek, Clos de la Roilette, Tradition, Minervois, 12017 95 2Pinot Noir, 3Noir, Sta Rita Hills, 7South Africa 2015 93 8Fleurie, Beaujolais, 9Languedoc, France £39 The New Zealand Cellar Willamette Valley, Oregon, California, USA 2016 94 £18-£21.50 ABS Wine Agencies, France 2017 93 2017 93 A challenging year, but this 40% whole- USA 2015 95 £59 Roberson Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Noble Green, £13.75-£16.96 Goedhuis & Co, £10.95-£11.75 Yapp Bros, Jeroboams , bunch (the rest being whole berries) Pinot £39-£46 Pull the Cork, Roberson Sashi Moorman and Rajat Parr focus on Wright Wine Co Harvey Nichols, Lant St Wine, Richard Kihl, The Smiling Grape Co Noir has loads of Far-Eastern spice to This Oregon Pinot has benefited from terroir-oriented Pinot Noir. This marries Whole-bunch, carbonic maceration and Theatre of Wine, Uncorked Old-vine Syrah, Grenache and Carignan complement rich, dark black fruits. seven days under gas, bringing out the earthy Burgundian characters with some the use of some ripasso grapes have given Semi-carbonic maceration, natural yeasts co-fermented in this deliciously easy- Fantastic acidity keeps everything in colour, aromatics and mouthfeel – without Californian warmth. Elevated aromatics a plush, generous wine of purity, smooth and old oak foudres all contribute to this drinking yet concentrated and silky- perfect harmony. Plenty of ageing the tannins. Ultra-fine texture, beautiful are complemented by fine tannins, crisp tannins, sweet red-cherry fruit and a spicy benchmark Fleurie. Combines rusticity smooth Minervois. Matured in concrete potential, clearly showing the direction in balance; a fragrant, delicate Pinot with acidity and purity of fruit. Oak underpins finish. Although aged in barrels for 18 with pleasure: violets on the nose, cherry cuves for eight months. A lovely example which top Otago Pinot Noirs are headed. bright, polished red fruits. Lovely acidity the structure but is so understated. Fine, months, the oak here is beautifully supple. and blackberry on the palate, with some with concentration, spice and a lingering Drink 2020-2027 Alcohol 14% to finish. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 13% fresh, elegant. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 13.5% Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14% leathery notes. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13% mineral note. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14% 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Tapanappa, Foggy Thistledown, She’s Blank Canvas, Syrah, Gérard Bertrand, Heretat MontRubí, Miguel Torres Hill Vineyard Pinot Electric Old Vine Hawke’s Bay, New Le Viala, Minervois Black, Penedès, Spain Chile, Reserva de 4Noir, Fleurieu 5Single Vineyard 6Zealand 2015 93 1 0La Livinière, 12017 1 93 1 2 Pueblo, Maule 93 93 Peninsula, South Australia Grenache, McLaren Vale, £21.50-£27.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Languedoc, France 2015 £13.99 Jeroboams, The Smiling Grape Co Valley, Chile 2016 2017 94 South Australia 2018 94 Carruthers & Kent, Christopher Keiller, Exel, £50.70-£57.11 (2014) Exel, Fintry 30% carbonic maceration gives this £11.49 Aimee’s Wine House, Dronfield Wine £29.05-£34 Exel, Mentzendorff £24.67-£29.99 Alliance Wine, Liberty Wines, The Fine Wine Co, The NZ Cellar Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Harrods, Wine Poole new-wave Penedès Garnacha a real lift. World, EH Booths, Hoults, Polygon Wines, 2017 was almost a perfect vintage here; Carruthers & Kent, The Fine Wine Co, Salut Wines A highly complex and savoury Syrah from Syrah (60%) and Carignan (15%) Deep and inky in colour, there is plenty of Magnum Wine Co Brian Croser used 30% whole-bunch fruit, This uses 50% whole-bunch, old-vine a single-vineyard site. 60% whole-bunch underwent separate carbonic maceration dark, spicy black cherry and damson on An intriguing 100% dry-farmed País made cooled, then layered with de-stemmed Grenache giving a plush, soft, luscious fermentation and co-fermentation with before blending with Grenache. Intense the palate, with a refreshing savoury, from 95% carbonic maceration grapes. bunches before the tank was sealed.
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