The Alpine Club of • Section

Island Bushwhacker

2019 Annual THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL

VOLUME 47 – 2019

Cover Image: Braiding the slopes at Hišimýawiƛ Opposite Page: Clarke Gourlay skiing at 5040 (Photo by Gary Croome) (see Page 16) (Photo by Chris Istace)

VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION OF THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

Section Executive 2019

Chair Catrin Brown Secretary David Lemon Treasurers Clarke Gourlay Garth Stewart National Rep Christine Fordham Education Alois Schonenberger Education Colin Mann Membership Kathy Kutzer Communication Brianna Coates Communication/Website Jes Scott Communication/Website Martin Hofmann Communication/Schedule Karun Thanjuvar Island Bushwhacker Annual Rob Macdonald Newsletter Mary Sanseverino Leadership Natasha Salway Member at Large Anya Reid Access and Environment Barb Baker Hišimýawiƛ (5040 Hut) Chris Jensen Equipment Mike Hubbard Kids and Youth Programme Derek Sou Summer Camp Liz Williams Library and Archives Tom Hall

ACC VI Section Website: accvi.ca ACC National Website: alpineclubofcanada.ca

ISSN 0822 - 9473 Contents REPORT FROM THE CHAIR 1

NOTES FROM THE SECTION 5 Trail Rider Program 6 Wild Women 7 Exploring the back country in partnership with the ICA Youth and Family Services program 8 Happy Anniversary: Hišimy̓ awiƛ Celebrates Its First Year 10 Clarke Gourlay 1964 - 2019 16

VANCOUVER ISLAND 17 Finding Ice on 17 Our Surprise Wedding at the Summit of Kings Peak 21 Mount Sebalhal and Kla-anch Peaks 24 Mt Colonel Foster – Great West Couloir 26 Climbing the Island’s Arch 36 Reflection Peaks At Last 39 Climbs in the Lower Tsitika Area: Catherine Peak, Mount Kokish, Tsitika Mountain and Tsitika Mountain Southeast 42 A Return to Triple Peak 45 Rockfall on Victoria Peak 48 Mt Mariner: A Journey From Sea to Sky 51 Beginner friendly all women Traverse of the Forbidden Plateau 54 It’s not only beautiful, its interesting! The geology of the 5040 Peak area 57 Myra Creek Watershed Traverse 59 Mt. Septimus: An Unexpected Sixth Island Qualifier 63 Call of the wild: Remote summits in the Pierce Range – Megin Peak and Talbot Peak 66 Project VI 6000’ers 68 A Journey to the Island Qualifiers 71

MAINLAND 74 Bonnington Range Ski Traverse 74 Introduction to Ski Based Mountaineering 76 Mount Athabaska 79 Meditation Mountain – Summer Camp 2019 Week 1 – A Week without a Peek from the Peaks? 81

(continued overleaf) Easton Glacier 84 Mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys 86 DISTANT PLACES 89 The Glass House 89 Spring in Japan 91 The Manbush Trail 96

2019 PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS 98 ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼

REPORT FROM THE CHAIR

Catrin Brown

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First group booked at the 5040 hut, January 2019. (Photo by Chris George) balanced bottom line. The optimism that drove this project from the start is truly validated!

Ski trips, snowshoe trips and local hikes make our short days pass quickly through the winter months. Right off the top I must give a very big thank you to our trip leaders - too many to mention - you are at the heart of our shared goals. We often refer to the trip schedule as the lifeblood of the section, as we would not be this healthy vibrant community without the opportunities to get together out there. And a reminder that we have an ongoing need for people to step up and lead. Our leadership Catrin Brown at Reflection Peak. (Photo by Mike coordinator Natasha Salway and scheduler Hubbard) Karun Thanjuvar are always on hand to help you develop your ideas. The Life of ACC-VI through the 4 seasons of 2019

Winter 2019

Another major landmark for our section passed early in the year: the opening of bookings for our hut on 5040 Peak through the national club. Happily, the first ‘official’ weekend in January was marked by great skiing conditions and visits from several of the people who helped in the construction project.

Fast forward to the end of the year, and I’m delighted to report that the hut has been a huge success with bookings higher than predicted, hundreds of happy customers and a Skiing from the hut January 2019. (Photo by Chris George) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 1 February was an unusually cold month, and always say, those lucky kids. It is perhaps one even in Victoria many of us were able to ski of the best tributes to the program that one of its around our neighbourhoods. Tame stuff though ‘graduates’, Iain Sou, is now helping in its running compared with what was going on up-island. Our and also stepping up to help with our education own Chris Jensen teamed up with none other program. Our sincere thanks and respect to these than Will Gadd to pull off a first ascent of Della leaders. Falls via seven pitches of ice (see page 17). The adventure is beautifully described in “Gripped” magazine and on Will’s Instagram page. Chris’ mountaineering exploits yet again help to put Vancouver Island on the map of national mountaineering, and we can enjoy a share of this vicariously. Congratulations Chris.

Members also enjoyed lots of opportunities for workshops and courses, organised by our education coordinators, Alois Schonenberger and Colin Mann. They are the folks who answer questions many times over, organise fees and venues, and so help to welcome a lot of people Kids and youth group heading to camp. (Photo by to the club and the mountaineering community. Derek Sou) Thank you both. Our very popular leadership subsidy program continues to help make A new development this year was a successful these courses more financially available while partnership with the youth program of the promoting trip leadership too. And thanks also Inter Cultural Association brokered by Karun to Mike Hubbard and Bernard Friesen who have Thanjuvar. This led to some successful trips, helped keep us safe with the supply of rental culminating in a lively snow-shoe trip to Mt gear. Washington in March (see pages 7-8). Exposing youth from such diverse backgrounds to our Spring 2019 snowy wilderness is a rewarding experience indeed, and we are confident this connection will The longer days of spring bring flowers to the continue to grow. hills and some more great ski touring in the mountains. Skiing at the hut was amazing, as As we know all too well, our wilderness featured on the front page of the Spring edition environment is constantly under threat from the of the ACC Gazette. A lodge-based back-country forces of urban development, logging and the ski week was organised to the Kootenays, vested interests of private land-owners. Sigh. A and members enjoyed many other trips to recent merger of the forest companies under the destinations such as Mt Cain, the Sooke hills, Mt new management company “Mosaic” gave us a Arrowsmith and an early start to the rock-climbing new challenge, but Barb Baker, our indefatigable season at Quadra Island. champion of all things access, lost no time in making herself and our concerns known to them. Our Kids and Youth Group was especially active It is good to know that Barb will not take her foot in the snowy months. This program has become off the pedal as she continues to push for public a flagship of our section’s activities, this year corridors to public spaces. involving an impressive total of 21 different families. One overnight snowshoe trip had 24 In the south island, another round of threats participants including 13 kids and youth! The to the Sooke hills (a potential highway through organisation of this could boggle the mind, but the park) set several of us heading to the it happens calmly through the dedication and CRD podium to help stare down such a plan. unfailing humour of our leaders Derek Sou and One positive from the increased number of Stefan Gessinger with Shanda Lembcke. As I backcountry users is a stronger voice in these

2 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 matters, or so I choose to believe. CRD provided gave us something to look up to, from Nootka opportunities for us to contribute to workshops on Sound that would be, climbing the dramatic their plans for the Sooke Hills Wilderness Park, Conuma Arch on the west coast of the Island while the rock-climbing community harnessed (as (see page 36). “Respect the Mountains” day, it were) their energies to develop a new society, an initiative of the main club and organised South Island Climbers Association. by Christine Fordham at Mt Washington in June, brought together families for a focus on In a related way, the executive spent human impact. A development from this was the considerable time analysing our membership stickers on backcountry toilet etiquette that were of the Federation of Mountain Clubs of British distributed later in the year - please place them Columbia, FMCBC. At issue was the question where you think they will be useful to help our of the Fed’s effectiveness in supporting our ongoing efforts to share good practice. concerns on Island-specific issues, and their per-member fee structure, which became Our community and far beyond was rocked increasingly onerous with our burgeoning by tragedy in late June with the loss of Clarke membership. Beginning at the AGM in January Gourlay in an accident in Strathcona Park. In 2019, consultation was widespread including his passing we lost an active member and trip- communications with FMCBC. Ultimately, a vote leader, our treasurer, a unifying force of up-island by the full executive determined we would cease mountaineering groups and very much more. membership in the FMCBC, but continue to Clarke completed his Island Qualifiers in August support its work through annual donation. This 2018, and was well on his way to completing the change also gave us the opportunity to diversify Vancouver Island 6000’ers. Clarke lived life large and expand our financial support for other - as a family man, a successful entrepreneur, organisations committed to conservation and a newly-elected politician and of course a very advocacy on the Island. active mountaineer. We were privileged that he gave so much to our community and hold him in Our executive, now numbering 21, meets about our hearts with gratitude. A fuller tribute is given every six weeks, with minutes posted efficiently on page 16. on the website. This is a good place for me to thank our wonderful team of communicators - Brianna Coates, Martin Hofmann, Kathy Kutzer, David Lemon and Karun Thanjuvar. Jes Scott, who is part of this team, deserves special mention for her ongoing work with maintaining and updating the website - it truly has become a treasure trove of information and active resource.

And despite all this administrative talk, let me reassure you that the executive members are people too - between them celebrating two weddings and a birth in the spring. Congratulations to Kathy and Skafti who married in Canmore in February, Colin and Natasha who married on the summit of King’s Peak during a club trip in May (see page 21), and Anya and Base camp at Meditation Mountain. (Photo Hayes who welcomed Teslin into the world in Catrin Brown) June. Once more the summer camp committee facilitated four smoothly run weeks of back-to- Summer 2019 back heli access for our summer camps during July and August. The vicinity of Meditation And so on to the long days of settled summer Mountain, just outside the Stein Valley park, was weather. Hunter Lee and Chris Jensen again a glorious location for hikes and scrambles to the ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 3 many accessible peaks in all kinds of weather, outstanding leadership and work in all stages of with the bonus of a reprieve from the effects of the vision, planning and construction of our hut forest fires this year (see page 81). Our Family on 5040 Peak. I’m told that the national club is in Week group of 20 again achieved the airiest awe of the way in which this project unfolded on traverses, most technical summits and longest schedule and in budget. Although Chris and Chris days of any of the groups. This seems to be graciously acknowledge the full community effort becoming a tradition. involved, we all know it wouldn’t have happened without the two of them. Hearty congratulations to New this year was a week’s section ‘camp’, or you both. more accurately “glamp”, at our hut. Participants enjoyed exploring the terrain of 5040 Peak, Ken Wong and George Butcher each received including the delightful and intriguing limestone the Charles Turner Award on completion of the plateau below the east col, and the long ridge 53 Vancouver Island peaks over 6000’. That in the direction of Nahmint (see page 57). The brings the total to five of members who have wild flowers in August were spectacular. Trail now achieved this ‘hall of fame of Vancouver Rider trips, which are always noted for their Island mountaineering’, as nicely represented camaraderie and team spirit, enabled people who on a new page on our website. Meanwhile, the cannot otherwise access wilderness to get out list of recipients of the Rick Eppler Award for there. Thanks to Caroline Tansley for helping to completion of the Island Qualifiers grows steadily make this possible (see page 6). with the addition of Dan McKean, Laurence Philippsen and Tyler Maclachlan this year. Our youth memorial grant, ably steered by Geoff Congratulations all. Bennett, was this year awarded to our youth group for an expedition to Mariner Mountain. The 2018 edition of the Island Bushwhacker When Stefan Gessinger reported afterwards that Annual was distributed in August to rave reviews. this was their most ambitious trip ever, that really It is an extensive and diverse collection of tales told me something. Please enjoy the separate of our members’ adventures, also serving as an report of this great adventure starring kids, bikes, important store of Island mountaineering history. and a summit climb of Mt Mariner via rock and Our editor Rob Macdonald did a superb job, not glacier (see page 51). only with the print version but also for the first time producing a full colour edition available Mike Hubbard and Colleen Kasting again opened online. It is a visual treat - indulge yourself if you their forest garden in Saanichton to the hungry have not yet done so. hordes in late August. There we celebrated the national club’s Distinguished Service Awards Our section is well represented at the national to Chris Jensen and Chris Ruttan for their level with representation on committees and participation in the General Mountaineering Camps. Special congratulations to Natasha Salway who, as the recipient of the Karl Nagy memorial scholarship, worked as an assistant guide during the GMC, and apparently did a wonderful job, as judged (so to speak) by Mike Hubbard.

Fall 2019

Lengthening evenings herald the return of our monthly slide shows at Swan Lake Nature Centre in Victoria. Our thanks to Peggy Taylor, Neil Chris Jensen and Chris Ruttan, recipients of the Han and Dave Suttill for ensuring we are always Distinguished Service Award August, 2019 (Photo by welcomed there with appropriate program, Catrin Brown) technology and snacks respectively. Our annual

4 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 photo contest in October, organised by Brian and supportively picked up all kinds of additional Parsons, led to the usual high-stakes competition tasks to help with this transition. I am very for the coveted trophies (see page 98). Or not. grateful to you both. The executive has since decided that we will replace these behemoth trophies-that-no-one- Mary Sanseverino, our ebullient newsletter editor, really-wants with gift vouchers for each category is stepping down from her role after many years. next year. The stakes are rising! So December, 2019 saw the last in the current series of these editions, always beautifully In October, we celebrated what was described constructed and packed with interest. As Mary as “the icing on the cake” of the hut project, the herself noted, it has become more of a magazine hut-naming ceremony. “Hišimy̓ awiƛ” (pronounced than a newsletter. Our sincere thanks to Mary as Hi-SHIM-ya-wit), which means “Gather Together” she takes a well-earned break from this task. in the Barkley Sound dialect of the Ucluelet First Nation, was the name chosen after consultation We were touched and grateful that the Gourlay by Geoff Bennett with the Ucluelet, Toquaht and family once more offered their home to the Tla-o-qui-aht Nations. The ceremony in October broader mountaineering community for a get- featured members of the Warrior Youth program together in November. In Victoria a Christmas and our own youth group, using makeshift drums party was once more hosted at the home of Tom from paint cans (see page 14). Another happy and Pam Hall, with catering ably provided by day in the mountains. Lynne Moorhouse and friends.

A quick glimpse of our financial statements will Looking ahead to 2020 show how much we depend on the profit from the Banff Mountain Film Festival to drive most of our And so the cycle of seasons continues as we activities. Happily, thanks to Anna-Lena Steiner look forward to a new year. Last year I pictured and Lise Gagnon, this was again secured by the life of our section as a healthy tree, this year achieving a sell-out crowd at the event. Following I am thinking of us as a forest with this circle of our decision regarding FMCBC membership, life. And an old-growth forest for sure - beautiful, we were able to increase our donations to diverse and inter-connected. We are shaped organisations with a specific focus on Island by every contribution as we learn from each environmental and advocacy issues. These other and share what matters to us. Thanks included the Vancouver Island Trail Association, to everyone for your part in nourishing and the Vancouver Island avalanche bulletin, the sustaining this community. Marmot Recovery Foundation, Ancient Forest Alliance, Strathcona Wilderness Institute and ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼ SICA.

There is one thank you that deserves its own place in this report, and that is to our new NOTES FROM THE SECTION treasurer, Garth Stewart. In the midst of the difficult days following Clarke’s death in June, Garth stepped up out of the blue with a generous offer to help. Since then he has invested ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲ countless hours in learning and untangling the web of our finances without, of course, the benefit Expanding our reach - trips for specific of a normal process of succession. Garth’s groups thoroughness, patience and expertise have been greatly appreciated, and it has been a pleasure In recent years some of our leaders have taken to welcome him to the executive. Additionally, initiatives to reach out to specific groups who may Colleen Kasting, our former treasurer, quietly not otherwise initially feel confident or compelled ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 5 to take part in our activities. By offering trips which provide space for these groups, these leaders have helped encourage many people to come out, enjoy our beautiful environment and be part of our community. Below is a compilation of stories from some of these diverse activities. ______Trail Rider Program

Caroline Tansley ______

Our section owns a Trail Rider, a rugged vehicle designed to take individuals with mobility challenges into the backcountry. Trip participants work as a team of porters to take our guest Enroute to Petroglyphs via Coast Trail. Foreground off paved trails to enjoy the wilderness. The left to right Karun Thanjavur, Madeleine Tremblay, ACC-VI Trail Rider Program had three trips and Nicole Harris, Pippa Blake, Andrew Cripps. (Photo by accomplished two firsts in 2019. Caroline Tansley)

We completed a first and second trailrider ascent of Lone Tree Hill with Marnie Essery in May and with Cynthia Tansley in August. Being short but steep, Lone Tree posed a particular challenge for the team; we paced ourselves wisely and were rewarded with 360° views on the summit.

In July we returned to East Sooke Park with Pippa Blake and reached the petroglyphs via the Coast Trail, which was another first for the program. Although fairly flat the terrain was technical and required careful route planning and manoeuvring.

View overlooking the Salish Sea’s Strait of Juan de Fuca. Large team of porters with Pippa Blake. (Photo by Peter Lushpay)

East Sooke Park, Pippa Blake with Karun Thanjavur. (Photo by Summit of Lone Tree Hill: L to R Karun Thanjavur, Catrin Brown) Caroline Tansley, Karin Olafson, Nicole Harris, Marnie Essery, Andrew Cripps. (Photo by Peter Lushpay)

6 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 ______to Marble Meadows across some fabulously fossilized limestone (especially cool since we Wild Women had a knowledgeable geologist with us!), to our basecamp in the beautiful smaller meadow just below the ridge linking up Mt. McBride and Nadja Steiner Morrison Spire. Those were in fact the first two of ______the Ms, which everyone scaled the next day. The trip was completed with a detour up the 3rd M, The three big M’s were the target for the six Marble Peak, on the last day of the adventure. An motivated, marvelous, multifaceted mountain absolutely smooth and fun trip. women in September. Canoeing over Buttle lake, meandering the seamlessly endless switchbacks In October the Wild Women ventured into the first WW-hut weekend, which turned out to be a wonderful combination of seasoned mountain women, newbies and even little ones, as everyone joined little Sofia in celebrating her 2nd birthday. Not only was it a great opportunity to get to know each other, exchange stories and feast with some good food, but also a chance to explore the backside of 5040 peak as well as the hidden gem of the Hisimyawit marble meadows. That these women are tough cookies became clearly obvious when the first one jumped into the beautiful clear pond while I was trying to take a picture of the smaller frozen pond right next to it. All good fun, all in good sunshine (how else should it be?) and definitely worth repeating! Members of the Wild Women group (Nadja Steiner & ______Kara Aschenbrenner (trip leads), Tara Cadeau, Laura LGBTQ2+ group Darling, Ashley Burton, Lena Schmidt) climb Marble Peak. (Photo by Nadja Steiner) Jes Scott ______

This year there were three trips for queer and trans folks. In May, we took a large group of folks climbing outside at Glen Lake Crag. It was the first time climbing outside for many! During Pride, we went for a hike and a swim in the Sooke Hills. And in December, we went for a snowshoe on the Kludahk. Over 20 people gave ACCVI trips a spin for the first time through this group -- and many have gone on to become members.

Hanging out at our 5040 hut on the Wild Women’s weekend: Christie Simon, Nancy Wilson, EJ Hurst, Nadja Steiner, Sonia and Sofia Langer, Jo Laenger, Kara Aschenbrenner, Tahlia Ludow, Ellie McLeod, Stephanie Brown.” (Photo by a friendly stranger) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 7 ______

Exploring the back country in partnership with the ICA Youth and Family Services program

Karun Thanjavur ______

In 2019, our section began a new community engagement and support initiative in partnership with the Youth and Family Services team of the Inter-Cultural Association (ICA) of ICA youth group snow shoe trip, Mt Washington, March 2019. Victoria. The ICA team is lead by Gita (Photo by Quinton Gordon) John-Lyam, and supported by the Catrin and Charles gave short presentations Settlement Youth workers, Nabeela Ramji and with pictures and stories from their own recent Robin McGeogh. The goal of this ACC-VI and backcountry trips, highlighting their motivations ICA partnership is to promote outdoor and back and passion for exploring the outdoors. We also country activities to the youth in the ICA program, spent some time talking about our trip plans many of whom have emigrated from war ravaged with them, which we envisioned to be a local and poverty stricken home countries. The ICA introductory hike, followed by a snowshoe trip already offers a very active and vibrant youth at Mt. Washington. There was a good turnout of program, and organizes various cultural and youth at this meeting, all of whom were excited social activities regularly. This ACC-VI partnership to hear of these plans. We also discussed gear aims to build the outdoors program on this needs and other logistics for both trips. existing strength. Our first outing with the youth, a local hike up In order to promote the program to the youth, and Pkols (aka Mt Doug) in Victoria, was on Sunday to also gauge their experience and interest, we January 27, 2019. The location was chosen to had our first meet and greet in December 2018. make it easy for the youth to access via public transit. Pkols also offers a variety of terrain, and most trails are well away from busy thoroughfares to give the youth a real feeling of being in the back country and in nature. There was a good turnout, about 18 youth, three ICA staff and two volunteers, and two of us, Charles and I, from ACC-VI. The skies were overcast but at least the rains held off, making it a pleasant hike in cool conditions. We took the slow, long approach so as to give the youth time to warm up and test out their footwear, since several of them were using borrowed gear in preparation ICA youth group on summit of Pkols January 2019. (Photo by for the snowshoe hike later. To Quinton Gordon) many of the participants, even this

8 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Karun Thanjavur, Mt Washington ICA trip, March 2019. (Photo by Quinton Gordon) so we had eight experienced volunteers along ICA youth learning to snowshoe, Mt Washington, with Catrin and myself. This gave a very good March 2019. (Photo by Quinton Gordon) participants to volunteers ratio. Thanks also to hike well within Victoria, was all new, and many, the ACC-VI for helping with all the snowshoe including some who had already been in Victoria rentals, despite this expenditure not being in the for several years, did not even know that such budget! ICA had arranged a coach for transport, ‘wilderness’ trails existed so close to their homes. and also took care of warm gear, boots, food and The hike was a new experience for most of the all other logistics. This split in responsibilities youth, challenging and tiring in parts. But it was made the trip preps much easier to coordinate good to see how well they worked together as a and manage. team, encouraging and helping each other, along with bantering and teasing too. Their euphoria on The weather on that mid-March day was superb, getting to the summit finally, after hiking for close making it a pleasure to be outdoors and in the to two hours, was wonderful to behold! snow, even for the youth who were playing in snow for the first time ever! We split the group Buoyed by the success of the Pkols trip, into smaller subgroups led by a couple of the the plans for the snowshoe trip in Paradise experienced ACC-VI volunteers, which made it Meadows, Mt Washington moved ahead easier for everyone to mingle and get to know smoothly. The date, March 17, was chosen to each other. Once kitted up and ready, we did a coincide with the Spring Break for the Victoria slow meander through the meadows, choosing high schools. For this trip, we had 23 youth, the green trails, with a few ups and downs, to three ICA staff and two volunteers. There was give the youth time to get used to plodding in excellent response from the ACC-VI when I had heavy, deep snow with their snowshoes. Once put out a call for volunteers to help with this trip, they were comfortable with this new, fun mode of

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 9 travel, there was no reigning them back! ______

They were rolling in snow, laughing as they Happy Anniversary: Hišimy̓ awiƛ lobbed snowballs at each other, and trying to race each other without tripping over their wide-gaited Celebrates Its First Year footwear. After lunch, the group split into two, one headed for a more challenging snowshoe hike up Chris Jensen to the ridge near Raven Lodge, while the others ______had a fun afternoon tobogganing on the snow slopes nearby. Members of the ACCVI have long dreamed of having a safe gathering place in the alpine for The feedback from the youth after this trip was our community of friends. The desire for our very positive across the board, and the ICA was own hut has percolated through the section for equally pleased with how smoothly and efficiently more than a century. With the completion of the trip planning and preps had progressed. Hišimy̓ awiƛ, the wait for our own alpine hut is Therefore, it is no surprise that we are already finally over. We now have a cozy place where well into plans for a follow up Snowshoe 2020 we can come in from a wild storm, greet familiar trip, and have already done our first Pkols hike or new faces, and thaw our cold hands by a fire. with the 2020 group. Looking forward to growing The hut opened in January 2019 and with that, this partnership in the seasons to come! the ACCVI started to count what will hopefully be many years of having our own mountain hut. As Thanks to all the ACC-VI volunteers who made I write this article it’s currently 2020 so happy 1st these trips possible, including Charles He, Catrin anniversary to our new hut! Brown, Chloe Swabey, Sasha Gronsdahl, Anne Webster, Nikki Stuart, Sean Finucane, Russ Moir, What did the first year of the hut’s life look like? Tom Carter, amongst others. Was it anything like we thought it would be? What mishaps occurred? Did any life changing events

Carving by Chris Ruttan. (Photo by Laura Greenfield)

10 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 the hike many times in all types of inclement weather. When includ­ing donors and other non-construction help, approximately 400 people contributed to the project, donating over 8,000 hours of volunteer time. On January 11, 2019 the first guests came out of the icy cold and poured into the warm hut. I greeted them with excitement. It was finally time for people to enjoy the fruits of our labour. This would be the first of many weekends where skiers and snowboarders would play in the Happy times at the Hut. (Photo by Brett Classen) deep snowpack that is typically found on 5040 Peak and then return to a take place up there? What did we learn? A lot of welcoming hut. things happened with the hut so get comfortable because this is a lengthy read. Since opening Chris Ruttan added some beautiful woodwork to Hišimy̓ awiƛ. These includes the Build It and They Will Come hut’s new name carved in cherry wood, the funky wood handrails and the stunning pair of live edge On an overcast day in October, 2018, after maple tables. These custom additions really take dozens of sweaty hikes up the challenging Ruttan the place to a whole new level. Peter Gilbert and Route; through brutally hot days and brutally cold crew also worked through winter conditions to days; after lots of smiles and lots of pain, Chris install the new high-grip decking. The composite Ruttan finally put his toolbelt down and looked up deck will be much safer for guests walking in ski at our beautiful new alpine hut. It was done. We boots. did it. During the early design phase, we needed At least 150 people made the steep hike up to make a wild guess for how many people to help build the hut, and some people made would visit the hut. By analysing guest data from several ACC huts, it was estimated that this facility would have approximately 900 guest nights per year. The 2019 stats are in: the hut had a total of 1543 guest nights. This doesn’t include beds that were used by volunteers or hut stewards. This is 71% higher than originally estimated. We built it and they sure came. Non- members represented approximately two thirds of the guests and members one third. The youngest guest was just six weeks old and the oldest was Albert Hestler at 86 years.

The hut’s 2019 occupancy rate was 35%. This represents more than four guests staying in the hut every Carving of a different sort by Chris Ruttan. (Photo by Martin night of the year. This occupancy Hofmann) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 11 level puts our hut on par with some of the ACC’s exposed location, the building is performing flagship huts such as the Bow Hut and Stanley- exceptionally well. There were no issues that Mitchell Hut (37% and 38% respectively). This required us to close the hut. The building has is amazing considering the comparatively small already experienced many intense storms with population of Vancouver Island and the difficult winds well above 100 km/hr. During one storm winter access. the Effingham Weather Station, located less than 2 km away from the hut, recorded more than 300 The popularity of Hišimy̓ awiƛ shows that there mm of rain in a 24-hour period. That is almost has been a strong desire for an alpine hut on half the rainfall that Victoria receives in a year. Vancouver Island. Maybe after the novelty wears Even in such an intense storm the hut remained off then usage will decrease, or maybe it will dry – well, except for one small leak that can increase as more people find out about it. What’s happen under the front door. This is excellent your guess? considering that on 5040 Peak, heavy rain often defies gravity and can ‘fall’ up, and as much as Building Performance down.

The hut’s burly design was certainly tested in The combination of fine powder snow and very its first year. Given the extreme weather at this high-pressure winds did manage to find a few chinks in the hut’s armour, but once found these drafts were fixed. There were also some items like the electronic lock on the front door that couldn’t stand up to the thick ice that often occurs on 5040 Peak.

The finished hut has now stood strong for one year against hurricane force winds and some of the highest precipitation rates in North America. It is truly an extreme site to design a building for. Let’s hope the investment in heavy duty materials and modern engineering continue to perform well in these elements.

Finance

Revenue from the hut fee has been balancing with expenses and the Hut Fund remains in the black. The hut fee is $20 for members and $25 for non-members. This is a deal compared to many other huts such as the new Kees and Claire Huts which charge $30 and $45 respectively.

For another financial comparison, our neighbouring section’s new hut in Range cost $2.3 Chris Jensen on 5040’s south ridge. (Photo by Chris George) million for 38 beds. This represents a construction cost of approximately

12 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 $60,500 per bed. With some final finishing like. Other than that user issue, the stove has touches, our hut cost $315,000 for 12 guest beds. been reliable and is using less fuel than expected This represents $26,250 per bed which is less to keep the hut warm (all the insultation is paying than half of what our neighbour’s paid (we also off). provide foam mattresses for that construction cost and hut fee). Besides foam mattress, both Waste Management huts feature a similar level of amenities and features. The ‘pee only toilet’ in the hut was finished last year. Thanks to Gary Croome for his work on We are fortunate to be in a situation that this, including backpacking up the toilet. People has allowed us to build a modern hut at a especially value this pee toilet when a storm is comparatively low cost and low hut fee. A key howling outside. part of the financial success of this project is Colleen Kasting. As Treasurer, she has kept The urine-separating toilet in the outhouse is tight reign on the purse strings. Beyond finance, another modern feature of the hut. If it’s not Colleen also does heavy lifting behind the scenes already, then this outhouse may soon become on a range of complex administrative matters the most photographed crapper on the Island. (e.g. insurance). Anyone who enjoys the hut Who knew an outhouse could be so photogenic? should recognize and appreciate the significant Anyhow, going with the new conveyor belt system contributions that Colleen has made to this increases complexity over a traditional pit toilet, venture. and with more complexity comes more things that can go wrong. A couple of things did go wrong: Heating the Hut 1) the conveyor belt stopped spinning - uh oh - and 2) the pee pipe became disconnected - ew. I Hišimy̓ awiƛ contains one feature that you may not would classify both problems as the worst issues find in any other alpine hut: a wood pellet stove. that we faced over the last year. Nadja Steiner The main risk of going with this heat source is fixed the conveyor belt and Gary Croome took a that is needs a constant source of electricity. A deep breath and addressed the far more intense big question before opening was how well would pipe issue. Gary, hats off to you. Thanks for fixing the solar panels and batteries support the stove’s that in those conditions. People should buy you a electrical demand? beer.

We learned the solar system meets electrical Guests have been very good at packing down demand in most conditions but given the amount their garbage and not leaving food behind. One of snowy grey days up there, the solar system thing that guests sometimes leave behind is alone wasn’t always enough. During some their recycling. The recycling truck doesn’t stop stretches of poor weather, the Honda generator at 5040 Peak so guests need to pack down their had to be started. In 2019 two wind turbines recycling as well. were added to the charging system. Many thanks to Hayes Zirnhelt for all the work behind this Hut Stewards important addition and for the donors that made it possible. The wind turbines are now operating, When the hut opened, we didn’t know how many and we’ll monitor them to see how much they people would volunteer to help take care of it. contribute to the charging system. Our ongoing I’m happy to report the roster of hut stewards goal is to minimize generator use. is at a near optimum level. Many thanks to Martin Hofmann for managing the Hut Steward There has been lots of positive feedback on Program and to everyone that helped take care the stove, for example: it’s easy to start, burns of the place. Currently hut stewards are there clean, has low maintenance and the orange glow almost every weekend and some weekdays. Hut provides a nice ambiance. The odd guest doesn’t stewards have played an important role in helping read the instructions and thinks the flames should guests, fixing possible issues early and ensuring start faster, but it’s not as instant as they would that people follow hut rules and etiquette. ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 13 Speaking of rules, there’s always going to be the Access odd guest that will knowingly disregard them. The Provincial Government approved the One example of this is the “no dogs” rule. I have application to construct and maintain Cobalt Lake been the hut steward when a group of guests Trail. Planning for trail improvements is in the arrived along with five large dogs. Knowing the early stages. Donations and volunteers will be rules beforehand, they still had full intention of needed to make improvements happen. keeping their pooches in the hut. They were disappointed to find out a hut steward was there The bumpy Marion Creek FSR is doing well to prevent this. I have also arrived to find the considering how much traffic it has seen. In 2019 hut with plenty of dog fur inside and dog poop we asked provincial staff to grade this road, but sitting in the snow exactly where we collect snow the request was denied. We would like to improve for drinking water. I managed to track down the the road condition; however, the hut fee can’t responsible party, and again they admitted they cover it. Volunteers have been out there with knew the no dogs rule beforehand but chose to shovels and mattocks in attempts to maintain ignore it (yes, I was tempted to publicly shame waterbars and fill the worst of the potholes. If you them for polluting the drinking water). have time, please do whatever you can to help maintain this road. If you see a branch that needs Dogs have turned out to be a management to be trimmed, then go ahead. Every bit helps. issue. There are several reasons why dogs are If you’d like to help improve access with either a concern, but the main reason is that dog poop money or time, on the trail or road, then please presents the biggest risk to maintaining safe contact [email protected]. Gary Croome, Access drinking water. We are planning to create new Manager, would like to build a team that can start signage that will educate people on why dogs to plan and implement improvements. are not permitted in the hut (or tied up outside overnight). As word spreads that stewards are First Nations Hut Name regularly at the hut, people will hopefully be less inclined to ignore the rules. Geoff Bennett worked in cooperation with Ricardo Manmohan, the Director of the First On safety, there were no reports from hut Nation Warrior Youth Program, and Ucluelet, stewards or guests about injuries and Search and Toquaht and Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations to Rescue have not had to be called out to look for create an agreed name for our hut. The new anyone. name Hišimy̓ awiƛ (pronounced Hi-SHIM-ya-wit) means “Gather Together” in the Barkley Sound One odd event occurred when there was no hut dialect of the Ucluelet First Nation. On October steward there to help. Long story short, the bunk 5th, five Warrior Youth from the three local First rooms now have door handles that don’t lock. Nations joined us to officially name the hut. In

Hut naming ceremony. (Photo by Mark McKeough)

14 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 the morning, the youth summitted 5040 Peak, how genuinely thankful they are to all the people which is the highest peak that any of them had that made it happen. The log book is filled with summitted. page after page of positive comments. In a world that can overflow with negative news, the After lunch we gathered on the rocks in front of ACCVI’s hut provides a good news story. In a the hut where the Warriors, who were there on small way, this place is contributing to the well- behalf of their Elders, sang a Welcome Song and being and quality of life for hundreds of people. a Victory Song as part of the naming ceremony. This is the first ACC hut to receive a name from Hišimy̓ awiƛ has been a catalyst for a spectrum First Nations. It was an honour to have the of new relationships. People have connected Warrior Youth there, to laugh, to share stories as new climbing partners, new friends and some and to learn about the rich cultural history that have even met their significant other at the hut. surrounds Hišimy̓ awiƛ. It was a memorable day. Grooms to-be have proposed to their girlfriends, I look forward to having the Warrior Youth at the marking one of the most significant moments in hut again soon. Thank you to Geoff Bennett, anyone’s life. People picked this place to make Derek and Ian Sou, and Vanessa Barr for their the ultimate commitment to their partner. Clearly, contributions to this important event (this section Hišimy̓ awiƛ holds a special place in the hearts of was edited based on material previously written many people. This must be one of the reasons by Mike Hubbard). why guests have been taking such excellent care of the hut. Guest Gratitude The Team A quick look through the Hut’s log book clearly shows how much people love the new hut and Since the start of this project two positions have changed on the core team. A massive thank you to Rick Hudson and Lindsay Elms for their important roles on the Hut Committee. Rick successfully raised the lion’s share of funding for this project. No money, no hut. Lindsay Elms provided valuable input, history and other work that helped bring this project to fruition.

Gary Croome and Peter Gilbert are welcome additions to the team. Moving forward members of the Hut Committee are: Martin Hofmann (Hut Steward Program and Technical); Gary Croome (Access Manager); Peter Gilbert (Facilities Manager); Colleen Kasting (Treasurer); Chris Ruttan (Guru); and Chris Jensen (General Manager).

The hut had a fantastic first year. By all criteria it feels like we nailed this project out of the park. It shows what a generous and motivated community can achieve. Looking back over the five years since it first started makes me very proud of our section. I hope you share a similar feeling. ACC National is certainly proud of us as well. We have received many accolades from Canmore. Moonshine run. (Photo by Chris George) After more than 100 years without our own alpine ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 15 hut, we finally have a place where we can ‘Gather Together’. On behalf of the Hut Committee, I extend a deep thank you to everyone that contributed to this undertaking. If you haven’t been up to visit Hišimy̓ awiƛ yet, then what are you waiting for? Go enjoy it!

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Clarke Gourlay 1964 - 2019

Catrin Brown

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Back in 2016 when I put out feelers to Clarke asking him about taking on the role of club treasurer, I had no idea of the depth and breadth of his community involvements. And perhaps that’s a good thing, because then I may not have dared ask. As it was, Clarke’s cheerful acceptance of the role was a gift to all of us, generously adding to his already significant contributions to our section. In short, we are a Clarke with his two sons on the summit of . better community because he was one of us. (Photo provided by Nancy Gourlay)

Before moving to Vancouver Island in 2001, As club treasurer, Clarke’s patience and wry Clarke and his wife Nancy spent more than humour added levity to communications and a decade living and working overseas with executive meetings. He shared his business humanitarian aid organisations. Motivated expertise generously and made light of mundane by their strong Christian faith, they raised tasks. He had a real knack of finding creative their young family in Turkey, Switzerland and solutions to tricky situations, often just by Afghanistan during the time of the Gulf War. focusing on the positive and applying basic Their return to Canada coincided with their common sense. plans to start a cheese-making business, a seemingly bold move given the fact that they Clarke’s heart, though, was not in spreadsheets, had no background, training or experience in the but in the mountains. His passion for exploring industry. Fast forward to 2019, and today Little and sharing the natural world was a theme that Qualicum Cheeseworks is a Vancouver Island ran through his life, raising his three sons on success story, employing more than 30 people a diet of back-packing, diving and skiing. His and marketing its products to high-end stores and own ‘summit bug’ seemed to originate from his restaurants across the province (the farm, shop climb of Mt Kilimanjaro in 2010, and he went on and café are well worth a visit if you have not to climb more of the ‘Seven Summits’ including been). Clarke’s commitment to social justice and Aconcagua, Denali, Kosciusko and also Mt environmental advocacy led him to serve on the Blanc. On Vancouver Island, Clarke made Agricultural Land Commission, and in October short work of the nine ‘Island Qualifier’ peaks, 2018 to take office as a Director on the Regional for which he received the Rick Eppler Award in District of Nanaimo. In typical Clarke high-energy August 2018. He was apparently well on his way style, somehow on the day of this election he to earning the Charles Turner Award with only a found time to be up at the opening of the 5040 few of the 53 ‘Island 6000’ers’ still to climb. In Peak hut! recent years, Clarke spent all the time he could

16 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 back-country skiing, joining a section week- ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼ long camp in the Kootenays, a back-country ski mountaineering course and a ski ascent of Mt McBride this year. He took the acquisition of mountaineering skills seriously, enthusiastically attending workshops and courses. As both trip VANCOUVER ISLAND participant and leader, Clarke’s competence and big-hearted spirit were mainstays for each group he joined. ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲ While Clarke enjoyed countless friends to ______share his adventures, there is no doubt who his favourite companions were – his sons Raymond, Finding Ice on Della Falls John, and Kevin. We first became aware of the joint father-son trips when he posted happy Chris Jensen summit family photos during our ‘Vancouver February 23-24, 2019 Island 150’ celebration of Canada’s 150th anniversary in 2017. And in spring 2018, the ______news of his successful climb of Denali with John and Kevin gave us all something to celebrate. Waterfall ice on Vancouver Island can be as elusive as a snow leopard. Ice tools can sit for Anyone who spent time with Clarke knows that several seasons waiting for conditions to line up. his relationship with his family was at the heart of Island climbers often need both vigilance and his being. He was a big supporter of the ‘Family luck to be rewarded with some beautiful blue ice. Week’ added to our section’s summer camp, The winter of 2019 started off mild on the West and helped set up the bursaries which off-set Coast, but then in February we hit the ice jackpot. the costs for accompanied youth. Sharing their It was the coldest February on record in Metro family home, Clarke and Nancy graciously hosted Vancouver since records began in 1937. The Christmas parties for up-island mountaineers average temperature for February is 4.9 degrees, the last several years, and welcomed friends but in 2019 the average was 0.4 degrees. We new and old alike. Their kind hospitality brought didn’t just score one Arctic outflow, we had four together the different mountain clubs and truly in a row. This was the year to try any ice climb a helped to grow the community. person could dream of.

Clarke died tragically on 29 June 2019 while For decades climbers wondered if Della Falls hiking on Mt Donner in Strathcona Park, his could possibly freeze. Maybe it did, maybe it death sending shock waves through this didn’t. No one seemed to know for sure. At 440m community and beyond. Caring, principled, Della Falls is recognized by Natural Resources multi-talented and hard-working, Clarke leaves Canada as the highest waterfall in the country. a legacy of what it means to be a community Under other criteria it could be argued that other builder. When he entered the political arena, waterfalls are higher. For example, during heavy there is no doubt that he was poised to be an rain storms many mountain sides have waterfalls advocate for many of the environment and that are higher than Della Falls. But Della Falls conservation values we share. As we grieve his isn’t a periodic waterfall; it flows year-round. early departure and come to terms with this loss, let us hope his memory inspires us to find ways The mystery of whether these tall falls could be of honouring the work he still had to do. climbed was alluded to in a section written by Joe Bajan in the go-to guidebook Island Alpine Select (2015 Phillip Stone). Speaking about one of two key winter challenges that remained for the Island, Joe riddled the following clue: “Has national stature with the warm smile of really ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 17 ticking off those Rockies climbers and their ‘best of everything’.” While some people pulled at their chin whiskers wondering what he was referring to, many others had figured out that Joe’s challenge was Della Falls.

I had only ever heard of one climbing party that trudged into the falls to inspect it during a cold winter. They were disappointed when they arrived at the base. It hadn’t frozen. Their finding wasn’t a surprise because at 600 m elevation, the base of the falls is generally too low for ice.

Over all the years and all the beers that people had pondered about climbing Della Falls, why had only one party inspected the falls for ice? If its low elevation wasn’t enough, then the addition of a 35 km lake crossing combined with a 15 km approach made for a formidable trip. It’s a long way to go to take a look. The falls are also located in Strathcona Park so people can’t take a short cut with a helicopter or snowmobile.

Several years ago during a cold snap I had tried to organize an attempt to find out if the falls were frozen but by the time we could get going, the window had already closed. At about the same time Peter Rothermel had contacted the ice ninja, Will Gadd, to see if he would be interested in giving it a go. Nothing happened that year, but the seed had been planted. It would remain dormant for several years while people patiently waited for another Arctic winter on the West Coast.

The record-setting cold conditions of February, 2019 quickly sprung that seed to life. Sometimes trips take months of planning, but our attempt on Della Falls came together in the blink of an The route taken on the first trip to Della Falls. (Photo eye. Fortunately, a cancellation in Will’s schedule by Chris Jensen) opened a brief four-day window for him to fly to Finding a ride with such short notice seemed the Island, boat down the lake, snowshoe up the bleak, but by a near fluke I managed to find valley, climb the falls and reverse all of it. Peter someone to run us down the lake exactly when Rothermel put Will and me in touch. The chance we needed to go. Will managed to convince of getting everything organized and finding ice felt photographer Peter Hoang to join us and with like a long shot, but it was time to try. I didn’t want that, the trip was a go. to miss the opportunity again. Round One I immediately asked for time off work and thankfully the boss nodded yes. I then quickly got During the drive to the skies opened onto sorting out logistics like finding a float plane up to heavy rain. Will, Peter and I exchanged or boat to take us down . concerned glances and tried to laugh off that,

18 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 up the trail, we rounded a bluff and saw the first real ice in the whole valley: Della Falls. It was on! My face lit up. After all the years of wondering whether these coastal falls could freeze…there it was. Ice ran from the top right down to valley bottom. Our excitement continued to build as the weather cleared and temps dropped to -10°C overnight. Perfect.

We climbed the falls in seven pitches with some hiking and WI2 ice steps between a couple of pitches. There would be more ice to climb if it wasn’t covered by the deep snowpack. By taking the most direct line up the centre of the falls the route went at: Pitch 1: WI4, P2: WI3, P3: WI4, P4: WI4, P5: WI6, P6: WI5 and P7: WI3. Climbing a seven-pitch waterfall ice route on the Island was surreal. It was hard to believe that the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean were just 20 km away.

The WI6 pitch had big overhanging mushroom funkiness and sparse good gear. Will dispatched

Will Gadd leading a mid section during first ascent of the Falls. (Photo by Chris Jensen) yes, we were trying to go ice climbing in the rain. I turned the windshield ‘whippers’ to high and we continued.

Once on the boat named “Heavy Metal” we huddled inside its small cabin to stay dry. We were concerned the end of the lake would be frozen preventing us from reaching the dock. As the last stretch of the lake came into view we were pleased to see that it was open water to the end.

It continued to drizzle as we broke trail up the Drinkwater Creek Valley. Conditions were too warm and we were soggy. As Will said “never have my boots and head been so wet at the same time.” I smiled and welcomed the Rockies guys to ice climbing on Vancouver Island. I was happy with what we managed to pull off to this point, but with these conditions I wasn’t feeling optimistic that we’d find decent ice.

After about 14 km of swimming and sweating Will Gadd leading upper section during first ascent of the Falls. (Photo by Chris Jensen) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 19 it easily. It was nothing short of impressive to watch Will, with his 35 years of ice climbing experience, lead smoothly and calmly up through daggers and roofs. The WI5 pitch was some of the nicest Island ice I’ve swung into. Vertical blue bliss.

We were euphoric and tired when we topped out in the sun. Pillowy views of Della Lake, Nine Peaks and Big Interior greeted us. I grinned so hard I think the corners of my mouth may have touch my ears. It all seemed so unlikely, but we went for it and everything came together. An adventure like this is exactly why I Chris Jensen leading pitch on second ascent of Della Falls. (Photo love to climb. by Hunter Lee) This area has by far the highest concentration of waterfall ice on the Island and of anywhere I’ve been to. There were plenty of other attractive lines to head up. Taking other options could likely keep the grade to WI4. Looking up at all the other blue ice around made me wish we had more time to climb. But we had a boat to catch so off we went back down the trail.

Round Two

After the trip cold conditions continued. Hmmmm; I wondered if there would be time to fit in another round at Della Falls? Who knows when – or if – it will ever freeze up like that again. A rare opportunity was sitting there.

So less than two weeks later I was again boating back down Great Central Lake. I was joined by two climbing buddies from the Island: Ryan Van Horne and Hunter Lee. On the upside instead of starting out in rain, this time we began under blue skies. However, on the downside, I couldn’t get extra time off work. We had a small window of time to get in and get back home.

With the broken trail, we arrived at the base of the falls in six hours instead of the original nine hours. The next morning, we decided to try the Hunter Lee leading, Chris Jensen belaying a pitch on waterfall on the left (south) side. This flow is the 2nd ascent of Della Falls. (Photo by Ryan Van contained in a distinct separate gulley that you Horne) 20 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 can’t see much of from its base. What difficulties Descent back to camp was straight forward as were hidden up there? we rapped the middle flow that I was familiar with from the previous climb. Afterward we Temperatures were warmer than my first visit and relaxed at camp and gazed up at all the ice that ice was thin in places. We climbed unnervingly clung to the cliffs around us. I felt a deep sense close to ice that was only an inch or two thick. of appreciation for Vancouver Island. I love my Through the looking glass of ice we could see home. the cascading water running on the other side. At the start of a couple of pitches we had to skirt The record-setting cold temperatures of 2019 around open pools of water at the base. Being created a very special ice season on the Island. I largely confined to the narrow gulley with some feel fortunate to have enjoyed it like I did, with an marginal ice conditions gave this climb a far ice master and also with familiar friends. I hope different character compared to wide open ice of winter conditions line up again for other people the centre falls. to make the journey into the heart of Vancouver Island. With any luck, there will be dozens of pitches of gorgeous blue ice for people to climb. The window of opportunity will be brief. Act quickly and get after it.

Summary

Della Falls Center (WI6 440m) Vancouver Island, . FA: Will Gadd & Chris Jensen, February 23-24, 2019.

Della Falls Left (WI3+ 440m) FA: Chris Jensen, Ryan Van Horne & Hunter Lee, March 9, 2019.

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Our Surprise Wedding at the Summit of Kings Peak

Natasha Salway Ryan Van Horne leading pitch on second ascent of May 25, 2019 Della Falls. (Photo by Chris Jensen) ______

The gulley was tiered which meant we could Colin and I first met at an Alpine Club of Canada often only see one pitch at a time. Moderate General Mountaineering Camp in 2014, and we pitch after moderate pitch went by. We kept got engaged at another ACC GMC in 2016, so it expecting some spicy WI5 or WI6 pitches to seemed only fitting that our wedding day should eventually appear, especially near the top, but it somehow include a mountain summit and the never happened. After nine enjoyable pitches we ACC. reached the top under sunny skies. Almost every pitch was near WI3 grade. A pitch lower down Back in February of this year, we came up with felt WI2+ and pitch 8 was at the upper end of a plan to lead an ACC trip to King’s Peak via the WI3+. For me, the spice for this route came from North Spur route and not let anyone on the trip punching through the thin ice a total of five times, know that there would be a wedding at the top. thankfully only once while on lead. With a little help from our friend Barry Hansen,

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 21 Half way up the gully, we caught up with two more climbers who turned out to be Chris George and Chris Vanderford. As luck would have it, they were very happy to join our group since they were interested in the route we were going to take. At this point I could see that the weather was looking a bit unsettled and foggy around the summit ridge. We pressed onwards as a group of ten now. Colin spied a possible weakness in the rocks leading up off the glacier towards the ridge and we decided as a group to give it a try. The route had some easy snow Climbing the winter gully up to the glacier. (Photo by Natasha ramps that we took advantage of until Salway) the rocky ramps led us all the way up who kindly offered in November to marry us at to the ridge of the North Spur. the top of a mountain, we set our plan in motion. It went super well and was quite an enjoyable On Friday, May 24th, the whole group spent the variation to gain the ridge. It even put us up on night at the Buttle Lake campgroup. We got the summit side of the infamous notch, which up early so we could start our journey to King’s saved us a lot of time. The ridge itself had a bit of Peak. Saturday, May 25th, began a little bit snow still lingering on it but it was in good enough cloudy as our group of eight set off up the trail condition that we were able to make our way up at 6:00 a.m.. We made really good time to the to the summit without much trouble. Much to my upper meadows and then worked our way up to joy the clouds that threatened to dampen our day the North Glacier under the Queen’s face. The were melting away to reveal Elkhorn and Colonel winter gully was in great condition and it did not Foster in all their glory under blue sky! take us long to reach the top of it. We let the group have a decent break and some food before Colin and I made the announcement. We thanked everyone for coming up with us that day and casually informed the group that they were about to witness our surprise wedding. After many exclamations of surprise and disbelief, it dawned on everyone that we were totally serious. Barry prepared to begin the ceremony and our very talented photographer, Chris George, found the best possible position to capture our surprise wedding (with only 14% battery life left!) I still cannot believe our luck that Chris decided to climb King’s that day! Colin finding his way up the North Spur of Kings Peak. (Photo by Natasha Salway) The ceremony was short and perfect,

22 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 The wedding proceeds. (Photo by Chris George)

part of our potentially record-breaking wedding processional, overlooked by King’s and Queen’s Peaks. It was the most perfect day, made all the more special by the people who were there with us. We want to thank Jes Scott, Paul Janssen, Robert Ramsay, Doug Scatcherd, Ghislain De Laplante and Chris Vanderford, for being possibly the most unsuspecting wedding party in history! The ceremony begins with Elkhorn bearing witness. A very special thank you must go to Chris George (Photo by Chris George) for being in the right place at the right time and complete with our own climbing vows. We giving us such beautiful photo memories to look promised to be each other’s wedded climbing back on. Last but definitely not the least, a huge partner, to be each other’s belay and piton, on thank you to our friend Barry for giving us the summits, through cruxes, on alpine starts and wedding day we had always hoped for and will rainy days. Under a beautiful sky, with no other never forget. As two very active and dedicated groups around, surrounded by amazing friends ACC trip leaders, our day out in the mountains and fellow climbers, with Elkhorn and Foster will be a hard one to top for both Colin and providing the most stunning backdrop myself. we could have wished for, Colin and I became man and wife! After many photos and congratulations, we began our journey down to the King’s-Queen’s col, then down the North Glacier to the winter gully and then we all descended back to the cars.

Everything on this day came together in ways that we could not have ever planned. We are uncertain if Colin’s shortcut route has been climbed before or recorded, but if it hasn’t, we decided that a very appropriate name for it would be The Royal Wedding route, since it was The Wedding Party on King’s Peak. (Photo by Chris George) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 23 after work he would wonder off and explore the You can find the blog post on our wedding day lakes and waterfalls near where he had been and a great wedding video that Jes put together recently working and climb onto some of the for us at this address! nearby ridges with the view of climbing some of the peaks in the future. There weren’t many https://webelongoutside.com/2019/06/video- co-workers interested in joining him; however, kings-peak-north-spur/?fbclid=IwAR0gqJwLved5 sometimes he would return with his young kids 2xlcsQ8Da2pc2SSStsRfEnHsFSge7Ie5o3eIoBo during the summer when they were on holidays Glie6LOE and his work was often shut-down due to heat. I realize that if it wasn’t for these logging roads, King’s Peak Wedding Party: Natasha Salway & access to all these remote and beautiful peaks Colin Chris George and Chris Vanderford Jes would be a lot more challenging and, possibly, Scott, Paul Janssen, Robert Ramsay, Doug less likely to attract my attention—well maybe Scatcherd, Ghislain De Laplante and Chris they still would attract me. Anyway, Laurence Vanderford was always up for the adventure and I would see a sparkle in his eyes as he stepped onto the ______summits, scanning the terrain that had been his ‘turf’. Mount Sebalhal and Kla-anch Peaks There was one clutch of peaks that were on my radar to the northwest of Muchalat Lake. In the Lindsay Elms fall of 2016, Val and I explored access to these May 31, June 8, August 17, 2019 peaks from logging roads to the west of the lake, but it didn’t appear all that promising and I ______thought that there must be better access on the other side of the mountains. Then in 2018, we May 31, June 8, August 17 flew around the area and saw fresh logging roads and new activity up the South Kla-anch Road. Over the last few years I have been exploring After my report, Laurence then drove into the the obscure peaks off the forestry service road area on a reconnaissance trip and talked with the between Gold River and Woss. Many of them to logging crew. In the spring of 2019, we decided the west of the road are unnamed (either official we would visit this area armed with our new or local names although we have given them knowledge. names when we climb them), but the forests surrounding them have been extensively logged. Laurence Philippsen, my climbing partner for many of the trips this year and last year, was familiar with the area having worked out of Vernon Camp for the last thirty plus years. As we drove towards some of the climbs, I would hear stories of close encounters while he was driving his log-loader super-snorkel up, and down, many of these narrow roads and hear about the size of some of the old-growth timber that once existed. Laurence also had a pretty good idea of whether the peaks had been climbed. As a mountaineer he kept his ears and eyes open to The horseshoe ridge of Mount Sebalhal (Photo by Lindsay Elms) possible ascents, and some evenings

24 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 May 31 into the stream but a short distance up we came across a waterfall we couldn’t climb so we again Our first trip into the area was to climb a peak scrambled up into the bush to the west. Another we dubbed Mount Sebalhal which has a ½ km saw us in a bushy saddle below an east- beautiful horseshoe ridge surrounding a lake that trending spur which would put us onto a ridge Laurence had visited with his kids many years to the northwest of the main summit. We found ago. From the end of the road we followed elk ourselves zig-zagging through bluffs and after an trails up to a saddle between the South Kla-anch hour popped out into the alpine. Road and Sebalhal River to the west. A few hundred metres along the open ridge a A kilometre and a half to the northwest was spur to the north ran up to the northwest summit Swah Peak (1415m) and 2 ½ km northeast of Kla-anch Peak (1368+/-m). We um’ed and was Centennial Peak (1453m), which Val and ah’ed about whether to climb it now or on the I climbed in 2016 from the north side of these return, but chose to do it first. The main summit two peaks (see IBWA 2016). We skirted around looked a long way off and we weren’t sure if we the main peak to the west and gained the ridge could get to it and back in a reasonable time. to its south. After two hours from the vehicle we From the summit of the Kla-anch Peak Northwest were standing on the summit of Mount Sebalhal we looked at the options of getting to the main (1368+/-m) on a glorious day. From the summit summit but decided to hike across to the north we hiked the alpine ridge for 2 ½ km to the peak first, just over a km away, and then scope southwest summit eventually returning the way it out again. By noon we were on Kla-anch we had come. Peak North (1368+/-m) where we looked at the options. There was quite a considerable drop June 8 before ascending the main peak so we looked at the map and our GPSs. There looked like there Laurence and I were back again to attempt the might be a feasible route to the main summit cluster of three summits we called Kla-anch from the east of the peak. We would have to Peak southeast of Mount Sebalhal. Access return on another trip. It was no big deal as the wasn’t going to be as easy, but we had seen a mountain wasn’t going anywhere and we are possible route up a side stream off South Kla- always looking for an excuse to return to the hills. anch Road not far from where we had accessed Our descent through the bluffs was tedious and Mount Sebalhal. On each of these trips we would longer then we remembered on the ascent. By 4 drive up the afternoon before, scope out the best p.m. we were back at the vehicle, enjoying a cold place to deek-off the road into the bush and then beer and cider before driving home. camp. At first light the next morning we found elk trails and scrambled along them about 100 August 17 m above the stream. One km in we dropped Again, we were driving up the South Kla-anch Road only this time, a km or two in, we turned south onto Oktawanch Road hoping that the roads we had looked at on Google Earth were still driveable. We had seen a heli-logging landing that looked like a good place to start the climb. Unfortunately, we found a bridge out 1 ½ km from the landing. It would probably add an extra 30 minutes to the hike.

At first light we crossed the stream and began swatting away at the Kla-anch Peaks. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) alder saplings growing on the road.

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 25 After 30 minutes, as predicted, we popped out into the heli-landing site. Mist filled the valley and kept the temperature down. Following our pre-drawn track on Laurence’s GPS we picked our way down into a creek which we then followed until we had to climb out of it and into the edge of the logging slash. A half hour thrash and we were in beautiful unlogged old growth timber. An obvious spur took us up into the continuing mist to the top of a steep gut. The forest to the right angled up to a saddle and then to the North Peak so we The east face of Mt Colonel Foster above Landslide Lake. (Photo by traversed left across the top of the Philip Stone) gut to another spur which appeared flies, from a major highway but Mt Colonel Foster, to head all the way to the summit. The mist was on Vancouver Island, even in 2019, still holds a slowly thinning and twenty minutes from the few secrets. top we broke out into the sunshine. All around us the higher summits were poking out of the Mt Colonel Foster is undoubtedly the most cloud. Finally, we stepped onto the summit of challenging peak on Vancouver Island and its Kla-anch Peak (1480+/-m) to be greeted by a complex buttresses and couloirs have attracted Brocken Spectre. Hopefully, it wasn’t a harbinger climbers of all ilks for decades. By any route the of things to come like that experienced by main summit, located mid-way along a jagged Edward Whymper in 1865 on the summit of the and hellaciously exposed ridge, is tricky to reach. . We hung around for an hour hoping Since the first ascent in 1968 by Mike Walsh, who the mist below would completely burn off, but followed the ridge crest from the north end, most it never did until we were almost back at the climbers seeking a direct route to the highest vehicle. The climb down was fun and quick. It point have followed the craggy line over five main was exciting to pick off more unclimbed summits. rock spires from end to end. It meant that we could now move onto another part of the island and chip away at more obscure The 2 km summit traverse can be completed summits. either from south to north or north to south. Alternatively if the mountain’s apex is the prime Participants: Laurence Philippsen and Lindsay objective the ridge crest can be followed ‘out and Elms. back’ from either the south or north col. When ______Mike Walsh climbed the peak for the first time he traversed from the north col, over the Northwest Mt Colonel Foster – Great West Couloir Peak, down into a deep col with the Northeast Peak, up over the Northeast Peak and on to the Main Summit. On the return leg he backtracked Philip Stone as far as the deep col between the NE and NW May 28 - June 1, 2019 peaks and descended off the mountain down a gully on the mountain’s west side, which ______has been used multiple times since and local *Reprinted from Phillip Stone’s web site (http:// mountaineers have now attributed his name – wildisle.ca/blog/?page_id=593) Walsh’s Return.

It’s hard to believe that mountaineers are still An interesting historical twist, from about the learning and figuring out the mysteries of a 1950s to today, has played a key role in climbing mountain located a scant 10 km, as the crow activity on Mt Colonel Foster: the evolution of the

26 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 approach routes. This, as you will see, is at the Butterwort valley or sauntering up the elegant Elk heart of this particular story. River Trail quickly put the former into disuse. The final nail was added in the early 1990s when the When mountaineering interest really began in last, much needed bridge over Landslide Creek earnest on Mt Colonel Foster through the 1950s, was installed completing a hikers’ highway to 60s and 70s the approach routes used were split Landslide Lake. Now there really was no reason fairly evenly between: following the Elk River to take a second glance at Butterwort Creek ever to Landslide Lake to reach the east and south again, or was there? flanks of the mountain, and Butterwort Creek, a tributary of the Elk River that curves around the With climbers’ attention on Mt Colonel Foster north and west side of the massif. Perhaps most now firmly centred around Landslide Lake, emblematic of the utility of the latter route was and the south and north cols, very few people Ferris Neave, Hugh Neave and Karl Ricker’s first had caught a glimpse of the mountain’s west ascent of the Southwest Summit, via the gully face. In fact unless you climbed to the top of that splits the west face between the SE and SW Matchlee Mountain or Mt Donner, which even peaks, on July 31, 1957. today are fairly rarely visited peaks, or took an airplane flight over Donner Lake, there are very At that time the highest summit had not been few vantage points from where good views of conclusively identified, as the Southwest and Mt Colonel Foster’s west face can be seen. Central peaks are only a few dozen metres But here and there by drips and drabs a few apart in elevation, and from many viewpoints photographs from exactly those locations began the Southwest Summit appears, mistakenly, to circulate. What they revealed amongst a to be the highest. As successful a climb as it slightly shorter, but equally impressive, maze of was, the Neave brothers and Ricker’s spirited steep buttresses and clefts, was a wide, curving adventure placed them on the wrong spire to snow-gully splitting the west face to the south make the first ascent of the massif’s . of the Main Summit. As more images and beta They had climbed it in a thick shroud of cloud and accumulated, it seemed that the snow in this gully so weren’t afforded a view of the higher, central was consistent and persisted late in the summer peak from their own high point. In the following season, even remaining year round. Potentially few years local, Island climbers realized this error this great couloir could offer an abbreviated and set their sights on the true summit. option to climb the Main Summit of Mt Colonel Foster. The Neave-Ricker approach route up Butterwort Creek did not go unnoticed and many of the Curiously, amongst those to spy an impressive following trips to Mt Colonel Foster then used couloir on the west face, was Ferris Neave who Butterwort Creek to reach the North Col which alternated with the Snow Band Route from the south as the favoured route to gain the summit ridge. Eventually it was via Butterwort Creek and the North Col that Mike Walsh made his successful ‘foolhardy foray’ to the highest, Main Summit on July 20, 1968.

Through the following decades the Elk River Trail was steadily improved, culminating with the construction of a sturdy bridge over Butterwort Creek in the mid-1980s. What had up to this point been a fairly serious creek-crossing through large boulders and cold, fast moving water now became literally pedestrian. As the trail Looking up the Great West Couloir (left of centre) on toward Landslide Lake then became better and the west face of Mt Colonel Foster in winter. (Photo by better the choice between bushwhacking up the Philip Stone) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 27 made a reconnaissance flight with Jack Beban, that until it had been climbed in more typical in advance of their 1957 trip. It was unfortunate seasonal conditions it would remain a bit of an for his party that he didn’t also notice the relative outlier: winter climbs on the Colonel are few and heights of the summits to steer them on the far between. The question still remained if the right course because the gully that attracted his Great West Couloir offered the potential for a attention led them astray on their quest to make technically easier, ‘standard’ route on Mt Colonel the first ascent of the mountain’s high point. You Foster during the months that see the majority of can read Ferris Neave’s account as well as some attempts. So the seed continued to germinate for great additional stories and links on Lindsay Elms a high-season ascent. Beyond Nootka: Mt Colonel Foster page. Amazingly the first recorded use of the Great At last, at the end of May, 2019 a trip departed West Couloir wasn’t until 2014, by Hunter Lee up the Elk River Trail: Natasha Rafo, Andrew and Mike Shives, as their descent route off the Schissler, Renée Stone and myself. By this point mountain after completing a winter ascent of the the idea of ‘proving’ the Great West Couloir had magnificent Direttissima on the East Face (Bajan, expanded a bit. Now not only did we intend to Nichol 1978). climb the couloir but we had widened the scope of the adventure to include a novel approach via Finally, later that same year, December 30, 2014, , and to reinvigorate an historical access Hunter Lee, Josh Overdijk and myself climbed route for our exit. You’ve guessed it, Butterwort it as a winter route, making the first recorded Creek! ascent. Personally I had two motives for this climb: firstly, to spend some time exploring on We left the trailhead at about 1 p.m. our first day the west side of Mt Colonel Foster in winter and (May 28) and began the familiar trek up the Elk secondly to find out if indeed the Great West River Trail. With long, spring days ahead we had Couloir might be used as a route to the summit. hoped to make it to the Hemlock Camp in the The thinking being that in winter a snow gully upper Elk River valley that night but the Gravel would be in its best condition of the year, packed Flats Camp at 10 km had to suffice. We were still full of snow and frozen solid. open to approach options and from the Gravel Flats the south col was still on the table. But That climb went well. In sublime winter as we chatted around a water break alongside conditions, clear cold outflow and a stable Landslide Creek it seemed we were all of an snowpack we took four short, late-December adventurous mindset, curious of the possible days to complete it. Approaching to Foster Lake advantages of avoiding the south chute which the first day, ascending the snow chute to the has become increasingly problematic with the south col and traversing around to the west disappearance of the snowfields it used to hold. shoulder camp on the second day, climbing the So we took the left fork, leaving the Elk River Trail couloir and returning via the south col back to our and headed off into the upper valley toward Elk base camp at Foster Lake on the third day and Pass. exiting the Elk River Trail on the fourth and final day, New Year’s Eve 2014. The tread through the forest into the upper Elk valley is a well worn route. Hikers en route We learned that the Great West Couloir is a fairly through the Traverse to Myra Falls deep cleft, shaded by the two enclosing, parallel and mountaineers heading for Rambler Peak rock-features. Despite being oriented generally have beaten a well-trodden path. south-westward it receives very little sun. About 75% of the length of the gully is a pretty modest As the route exits the treeline into the alpine at 45-50˚only steepening for one ~60 m section the Rambler Canyon, the cool of the old-growth near the top. forest gave way to a searing heat as the mid- spring sun was reflected and re-reflected by the With a successful winter ascent of the Great extensive remaining seasonal snow cover. But West Couloir complete there was a sense of what the heat from the snow exacts it returns in ‘proof of concept’ but I couldn’t help feeling ease of travel. The cascading upper Elk River lay

28 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Making our way around the unnamed lake, Mt Colonel Foster in the upper left, Slocomb’s Rise in the centre. (Photo by Philip Stone) with overnight packs. Not to mention the effort required late in an already long day to make the Natasha Rafo and Andrew Schissler in the upper Elk extra ascent up onto Slocomb in the first place. Valley with Elkhorn Mountain behind. (Photo by Philip Stone) The other option via the unnamed lake seemed technically easier but would involve a loss of a buried safely beneath a thick blanket of snow. few 100 m and it was unknown. In the end we Huge avalanche debris piles and furrows at the reached a consensus that it would be better to bottom of the canyon showed that the spring take on the unknown, albeit slightly longer, but thaw was finishing and that the high risk slopes less technical route and descend to the lake. had already disintegrated and fallen off the mountains making conditions safer for venturing The route from Elk Pass down to the lake was ‘all onto the steeper upper slopes. there’ but was fairly steep with a little exposure in places. We made it down safely but it was We continued following the river course, keeping time-consuming, taking about two hours to make to the west side of the creek, well away from any the decision and the descent. On the sunny, remaining hazard from falling snow off Rambler west facing slope with ever lower elevation the Peak to our east. The snow conditions were snow cover became softer and thinner. Being a reasonably firm but still soft enough to steadily gully-chute, some of the rotten snow covered a tire us out. small creek. It required care but it all worked out. A week earlier and it would have been a twenty From Elk Pass we had two main route options minute boot ski! Once down this gully the next to continue our approach toward Mt Colonel question was: would we be able to find a route Foster: either up over Slocomb’s Rise, a high around the lakeshore to the open meadows we point overlooking the Colonel’s south col, or had spied from above? Again luckily the answer to descend to an unnamed lake south of the was yes. mountain and from there up forested slopes to the base of the west face. I was pretty confident From the base of our gully-chute we decided to about the viability of the route over Slocomb take the longer but much more open and gentler having gone that way some years ago en route terrain around the west side of the lake, travelling to the Southeast Summit. At that time with just in a clockwise direction following a series of wide day packs we had scrambled down off Slocomb benches above the shore. using an exposed gully, traversing and down climbing easily into the South Col. Hazy as the In what was still a very snowy world we found a memory was, I couldn’t help having a nagging beautiful patch of warm heather at the south end feeling that it could turn out to be more involved of the lake to have a nice long snack break and ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 29 assess the route ahead. From where we were the gave way to open snow between the trees and terrain around the west side of the lake looked granite outcrops and we all felt a sense of relief very straightforward, magical really. I had looked to leave the bush behind. As 7:30 p.m. came down off Mt Colonel Foster numerous times at and went there were a few calls inquiring about this alluring lake imagining what it might be like to camping. But I knew that we were now within wander through those meadows. Now 31 years striking distance of the west shoulder, and that since my first glimpse of it from the Southeast once there, on a stunning, flat perch with Mt Summit, here we were! Colonel Foster rising above us and the west coast off in the distance, all ideas of carving out a What didn’t look so inviting was the 12% slope manky bivvy on the snow slope would evaporate. to regain the 500 m of elevation we had lost, to get back up into the alpine below Mt Colonel We dug in deep and pushed on. As we made the Foster’s west face. The forested hillside was last stretch toward the west shoulder the golden riddled with avalanche chutes and we could tell light of the setting sun lit everything around us in from the texture of the vegetation that what little a beautiful warm glow. If you need one reason old-growth trees were there were poking through to choose a visit to the west side of Mt Colonel a dense thicket of shrubbery. We pressed on Foster the evenings would have to be it. around the lake like willing victims to a trial of our At 8 p.m. after what can only be described as own doing. a pretty full 12 hour day we landed on the west shoulder of Mt Colonel Foster just in time to The walk through the sub-alpine, lakeside watch the last rays of the sun set behind the meadows was just gorgeous. By now the light silhouette of Rugged Mountain and the Haihte was warming into evening and the scent of off to the northwest. It took some time hung heavy in the air. We made our way all the to find a suitable camp spot. The ridge was still way to the north end of the lake and scurried mostly covered in snow but as hard core as we down through a few bushes to the outlet. Some like to think of ourselves, sleeping on snow at small but adequate logs formed a jam at the the beginning of June just wasn’t in the plan. outlet and we crossed the creek without incident Eventually we settled on a pair of the least lumpy to the small meadow at the base of the steep craters, in the little open heather there was, and forested slope that now loomed above us. pitched our tents. The sunset and afterglow was just incredible. Above us the dark spires of the We had made mental notes of a general line Colonel jutted into an ever deepening indigo. to trend as we ascended the slope. For a few metres we weaved up a narrow, boggy creek The next morning we stirred half-heartedly. I but it soon disappeared above us in the dense, knew pretty quickly that the aches and pains stocky trees. It seemed like eternity but checking from the previous day’s exertions were too much the time stamp on my photos I now know it was to leap up and start our climb and no one else about two hours of heavy lifting up a slope of was up and packing their climbing kit. A rest day solid B4 bush. Eventually, though, the vegetation was unfolding. No worries, we had packed and planned for five days and a rest day would put us in great shape for a climb the following day.

What a treat to lounge around camp and just watch a day go by from one of my most favourite places on Earth! It was pretty warm though and we were glad to have the small amount of shade from the stunted hemlocks that were dotted around our camp. Andrew wandered up the ridge above us to check on the line into the Crossing the snow slopes on the west flanks of couloir. When Josh, Hunter and I had climbed it Mt Colonel Foster, with Elk Pass and Golden in the winter we had started from this same camp Hinde in the background. (Photo by Philip Stone) by descending off the ridge in to the northwest

30 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 cirque and then up the cirque as it funnels into the Great West Couloir. But on our way back down we discovered a narrow ledge that led from the base of the couloir straight across to the ridge crest making for a very elegant line and eliminating the unnecessary elevation loss and gain down the cirque and back up to camp on the ridge shoulder. Andrew returned with news that the ledge looked good and the couloir was full of snow as far up as he could see. We filed that away for the next morning.

That night we were treated to another spectacular sunset, although my photographer’s eye kicked me as the colours didn’t quite match the previous Climbing the Great West Couloir on Mt Colonel night’s, which I had ignored due to the fatigue of Foster. (Photo by Philip Stone) that day. the buttresses jut out there’s no real view of the We set our alarms for five something and headed couloir until you’re almost right below it. Now, for sleep. Next morning brought more clear skies from the traverse ledge we could all look up and and we were up and on with breakfast as the see the wide chute of snow curve up the couloirs; sun started to light up Matchlee, Mt Donner and it looked just perfect for climbing. the endless ridges to our west. By 6:15 a.m. we were fed, packed and underway from camp. Not The ledge we traversed in on is a little exposed, exactly an alpine start but a reasonably early with some loose, wet sand and gravel so we departure. quickly roped up to get across to the snow. Once on the snow at the base of the couloir we began simul-climbing up the snow. It’s a long 300 m ascent up the couloirs; the angle is pretty low almost all the way up but with an icy surface and given the hazard of falling rock, it’s a place to play it safe. There’s fantastic alpine atmosphere as the steep rock walls close in above the gully. We were given some concern from the hundreds of rocks dotting the snow around us that had fallen from the surrounding cliffs. But we never saw much rock moving while we were there. Most likely this shrapnel has accumulated from several years and is probably most active during cycles of freeze-thaw and snow-sloughing. Climbing the Great West Couloir on Mt Colonel Foster. (Photo by Philip Stone) A long steady climb on beautifully firm snow led us ever upward. It took us an hour and a half to Above the flat shoulder where we had camped, climb the main length of the couloir and reach the on the lower west ridge, the ridge tapers as it base of a steepening in the gully. This was the rises to meet the craggy west buttress of the obvious obstacle that I was curious about and Southwest Peak (see photo above). The Great one of the reasons that Hunter, Josh and I had West Couloir is to climbers’ left of this ridge. first came to climb the feature in winter conditions We left camp and made our way up through in 2014, when it was choked full of ice and snow. the steepening krummholz to the point where Now, as we looked up from the last ledge of the our appointed ledge ran off to the left toward continuous snow, the gully above us was mostly the base of the Couloir. Because of the way clear and dry with a few sections of snow, and

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 31 had more of the form of a chimney. steep step. Here there was some damp, dusty sand on the rock and it took some delicate work We regrouped and assessed the terrain ahead. on the rock but the chimney was narrow enough There was enough exposed rock that we decided to stem which helped take some of the edge off to pack crampons and put our second tools away, the ~5.6 moves. Above this step the angle eased keeping one behind our packs for easy access again and the snow returned in a nice long runnel on the snow patches. Andrew took the lead and to meet the upper glacier. scrabbled his way up the first few moves in the chimney. A bit of crumbly ice gave way and some By 10:15 all four of us had regrouped at the top soggy gravel squished down the back of the of the Great West Couloir at the base of the chimney but luckily the rock on the sidewalls of gendarme on the upper glacier. The views to the chimney was mostly solid and dry. Past a first the east opened up with King’s Peak, Elkhorn, steep step (5.5) and a small, dodgy chockstone Elkhorn South and El Piveto all framed by the the chimney angle eased and there was a ribbon surrounding rock towers. Far below lay Landslide of snow for about 20 m. He climbed as far as the Lake and the deep green forest in the Elk River rope allowed and set an anchor and belayed the valley. Four hours from camp and we were on the three of us up a full 60 m pitch. summit ridge and half-way from the south col to the Main Summit into the bargain, not bad! We Once we were all gathered at the belay, Andrew took a snack break and downed some water. set off again up the remaining tongue of snow until it petered out at a second constriction and Above us to the north, climber’s left from the exit of the couloir, was the next obstacle, the wall on to the top of the ‘Utopian Fin’ a feature that had been climbed by Sandy Briggs and Ignazi Fluri July 4-5, 1991: Shunt’s Utopia. When we were all re-snacked and ready to go I took the lead and scrambled up the wall, making a rising, leftward traverse that followed the line of weakness but also ensured that any dislodged rock fell harmlessly away from the other three below. We were climbing using two light ropes (Edelrid 6.9 mm Flycatchers) with Andrew on one and Renée and Natasha wishboned on the other. A little unorthodox perhaps but for the level of difficulty and the savings in weight they seemed a good choice for the task at hand.

The climbing up this wall is pretty straight- forward. Mostly 4th class with a few low-5th class moves depending which way you go, maybe a 5.6 move here and there. The line works up ledges and short steps. There’s exposure of course and what protection there is, is of small comfort serving only to determine which of the ledges you’d hit on the way down in the unlikely event of a fall. At the top the wall is very flat and open. An important snippet of beta is that there is a perfect bivouac spot at the west end of the crest of the wall, something it turned out we wished we had known beforehand. Andrew Schissler leading up the second step in the upper chimney (5.5/6). (Photo by Philip Stone) Once on the crest of this wall the rest of the

32 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 route to the Main Summit is in plain sight. It turns right and follows the sharp arête along its crest as it bisects the main summit ridge. The line weaves from the south to north side as needed. It’s all pretty obvious, and very exposed! At the far right (east) end of the fin it stops at a little pinnacle of shattered, clean, grey rock. In front, the precipitous east face of Mt Colonel Foster drops away almost in one complete drop over 1000 m to Foster Lake. The climbing route along the summit ridge returns to an orientation with the summits and makes a right angle turn to the north dropping down a clean, open slab. The Main Summit is still in sight but for us it quickly became a case of so near but so far.

Somewhere in the last 200 m we had used up two hours. Thinking back I can’t explain how, but as all four of us gathered up above the next obstacle, a rappel down the slab into a col north of the Utopian Fin, the time was homing in on 1 p.m. and we still needed to eat a proper lunch. I started to get a nagging feeling that our time for a day ascent from camp was running out. I blurted that out-loud as we pulled lunch out of our packs and we chewed our food as ravenously as we chewed through the options. It wasn’t helping things that the climbing ahead looked intimidating. At that point it’s a case of, you know Renée and Natasha climbing up the wall above the the beta is good but what’s staring you in the face upper glacier onto the Utopian Fin. (Photo by Philip just isn’t inspiring. Stone)

Andrew, Natasha and Renée at the east end of the Utopian Fin, Main Summit to the left. (Photo by Philip Stone) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 33 Despite the evaporating time we decided to but eventually were setting up the first of two press on. Andrew and I rappelled down off the rappels down the upper steep part of the Great end of the Fin down the slab into the next col. West Couloir. Above to the north of this col is a two-tiered pinnacle. Andrew climbed up the pinnacle but by The first, a half-rope rappel, followed by a second now our hearts weren’t into it and as the clock almost full-rope rappel onto the top of the main hands metaphorically moved past 2:30 p.m. we snow chute. I went down the rappels first, and reluctantly turned around. We had cunningly left with ropes safely coiled out of the way took one of ropes set on the rappel anchor so I top- the opportunity to clean out some of the more roped Andrew back up the slab onto the Fin and precarious loose rock in the chimney. then quickly followed on the second rope. This is a strategy I had thought of sometime ago – it’s As 6 p.m. arrived we were all down the rappels risky leaving a rope but in certain conditions it and back on the snow in the couloir. The upper could take the edge off that slab and save some half of the snow is a tad steeper than the lower time versus leading it on a return leg. half and it was feeling a bit crusty as the evening temperatures dropped so we stayed cautious and We retraced our steps back along the Utopian belayed Natasha and Renée down the first 150 m Fin, discovering the bivvy spots near the rappel with Andrew and me alternating setting anchors anchors at its west end. One long 50 m rappel and plunge stepping down. By 7:30 p.m. we were each and we were back down on the upper exiting the couloir at the traverse ledge linking glacier. We had a little trouble pulling the ropes, with the lower west ridge.

Now out of the shade of the enclosed couloir the snow was soft and gloriously slushy in the evening light. We weighed up the options of returning down through the krummholz-festooned ridge or boot-skiing down the cirque. Looking down the cirque it looked like we could get a beautiful run down and then sneak a traverse line across the sidehill and pop back onto the ridge right at our camp. Bootski or krummholz? An easy decision!

The line traversing out of the cirque worked like a charm with just a few metres of ascent and a well-flattened remnant-cornice to contend with. We were back in camp just before 8 p.m. Another pretty full day! And another stunning Strathcona sunset.

As we prepared and ate supper discussion was not surprisingly of our exit strategy. There were a few options. Returning down to the unnamed lake and Elk Pass, the way we had come, was obviously off the table! But we could traverse south under the west face to the south col and descend to Landslide Lake. A similar option would be to traverse north and descend from the North Col to Foster Lake and on to Landslide Lake. But as we looked out from our perch on the Andrew and Natasha exiting the base of the Great west shoulder the most obvious, most direct route West Couloir. (Photo by Philip Stone) was down into Butterwort Creek and, as unknown

34 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 to us as that was, it just seemed like the pioneers of Mt Colonel Foster towering above. Crossing would approve and our own curiosity sealed the the creek outlet was a bit entertaining with some deal and we settled on that for the morning. pretty thick conifers barring the way, but we pushed through and made our way into the open For all the time I’ve spent on and around Mt old-growth on the other side and here began a Colonel Foster over the years I couldn’t help magical experience in Butterwort Creek, as if it feeling like my relationship with the mountain… hadn’t been pretty cool so far. Okay, relationship is a bit strong, I don’t think that lump of rock actually cares one bit about any We descended the slope east of the creek flowing of us. But anyway the point is, without having out of the tarn, heading north-westerly to cross to fully experienced Butterwort Creek I felt as if the far side of the valley. We knew from collective there was a crucial part of the mountain that intel that there are a series of avalanche paths was unknown. So I really was very excited to that run down from Mt Colonel Foster’s north side be heading down into that valley and the others all the way to the valley floor in Butterwort Creek seemed blissfully enthusiastic too. and that the travelling would be best at this point on the north side of the creek to avoid them. We The story of Ferris Neave, Hugh Neave and Karl kept a watchful eye out for openings in the forest Ricker’s adventure was about to come alive for ahead that would warn us of the bush and keep us as one of the memorable pictures of their us on track to cross Butterwort Creek at the best climb is of them at the tarn at the base of the location. This we duly did and although we had a northwest cirque. The tarn can be seen from glimpse here and there of the bushy avalanche many points along the summit ridge and it is as paths running right across the creek, we never intriguing as it is inaccessible. did get into them. Phew!

The route down the lower west ridge went The travel down this upper part of the valley was incredibly smoothly. The ridge itself is such an simply stunning. So much of the vegetation was elegant feature. It curves off the Southwest open heather meadows between the trees. The Summit in a beautiful arc, cradling the tarn and creek itself was also sublimely beautiful, in many at the same time presenting a formidable barrier places flowing lazily at a low angle, the banks from Donner Lake and the Ucona valley to the lined with heather, early spring flowers and then west. The snow cover made for perfect travelling. alternately running over clean open rock slabs. In a few spots there were some short, steep rock Just magical. steps but they presented little difficulty as the centuries of bear travel had worn the right lines Mid-way down Butterwort Creek the slopes on nicely and we worked our way down the ridge the east side of the valley ease and form a wide with no trouble. bowl below the North Col of Mt Colonel Foster. From alongside the creek the North Tower can be At a key point we knew we had to leave the ridge seen above the trees striking a dramatic scene. crest and descend to the east to locate the tarn. This is the line to use to approach the North Col. This would be crucial as we needed to cross the Back in 2006 Ryan Stuart, Tobin Leopkey and I creek flowing out of the tarn to then make our had skied down this bowl after a few days skiing way into Butterwort Creek valley proper. above Landslide Lake, we had continued out Butterwort Creek to the Elk River Trail so from This turned out to be truer than we realized so this point I was back in hazily familiar territory. our route choice paid off. As we neared the tarn we could hear the out-flowing creek roaring The travelling was smooth until about two and as it cascaded into a narrow canyon almost half kilometres from the Elk River. Here the immediately downstream of the tarn. Keep that in valley walls close in, forming a bit of a canyon. mind if you’re heading that way – plot a route that I remembered from that ski trip to keep high on crosses that creek at the outlet at the tarn. the hillside away from the creek where there is a narrow bench providing the best line. There are We took a break at the tarn admiring the view several deep side-creek gullies coming down ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 35 off Volcano Peak that require negotiation and would have been it could only ever be a line item keeping at the correct elevation is key to finding on what was all-together an amazing trip. We the best way across these obstacles. On the travelled through some very rarely visited parts steep side-hill with pretty thick bush there was of Vancouver Island, proved I think now beyond some tough going as we neared the exit of the any doubt that the Great West Couloir is the most valley. obviously straight-forward route to reach the Main Summit of Mt Colonel Foster and that Butterwort The keys to Butterwort Creek are: in the two or Creek still has a role to play in exploration of three kilometres closest to the main Elk River Vancouver Island’s most majestic mountain. Now valley keep to a side-hill traverse a 150 m or so go get at that! above the elevation of the creek on the north side of the creek; there is a faint but important elk trail For anyone planning to climb the Great West at the right elevation – find it and keep to it until Couloir it’s worth noting that either of the more well into the middle of the valley. Farther up the common approaches via Landslide Lake to valley, passing the north end of the Northwest either the south or north cols would work as Peak of Mt Colonel Foster, again stay on the well as they do for any other route. The route north side of the creek to avoid long avalanche traversing around the massif from the North Col paths that run across the valley floor. requires a little extra attention route-finding and some exposure crossing an open talus slope It was a tired group that finally hit the Elk River below the NW Peak. Other than that both lines Trail and swung north on what looked now work fine to reach the west shoulder camp. The like a veritable highway. A great way to end an other option would be as described in the article amazing adventure on Mt Colonel Foster. I’m above: approach to Elk Pass and go up and over sure we each have a variety of feelings about Slocomb’s Rise to the south col. (See Philip missing the actual summit but as great as that Stone’s website for more pictures - http://wildisle. ca/blog/?page_id=593)

Participants: Philip Stone, Natasha Rafo, Andrew Schissler, Renée Stone

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Climbing the Island’s Arch

Chris Jensen May 29, 2019

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Conuma Peak, the Matterhorn of Nootka Sound, has one feature that makes it unique for the Island: a large arch right near the summit. If you’ve ever driven to Tahsis on a clear day then this pyramidal peak with the cyclops eye may have caught your eye.

Hunter Lee and I headed up to see what the arch offered for climbing potential. For access, we drove to 600 m elevation on the west flank and camped below an old looking avy path that Route Map of the circumnavigation of Mt Col Foster. we’d try to use to gain the north ridge. The next

36 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Western approach route up Conuma Peak. (Photo by Chris Jensen)

On the first day we spent time analyzing potential routes up the arch. (Photo by Chris Jensen) elevation we wrapped around to the west to get a close look at Conuma’s arch. Once in the gully I peered up and my pupils dilated as they saw the huge arch looming above me. It was way bigger than I expected!!

After spending time studying potential lines up it, we exited the gully and headed up its north side for a summit bivy. The next morning we traversed down the south edge of the gully and rapped onto the arch. This mountain is quite loose and unstable in some parts. My feet tingled as I wondered if the arch would even hold us. We didn’t know if anyone had ever stood on it before.

First glimpse through the Needle’s Eye. The arch was It was clear that there was a lot of loose rock far larger than expected. (Photo by Chris Jensen) and not many good gear placements...or even day we oozed our way through dense bush and crappy placements. We hoped to climb the arch then onto open slabs that dotted this way up. We on all gear, but then reality sunk in. Trying that were sure happy to pop out onto the north ridge could end with one of us hitting the SOS button. with minimal bushwhacking. At about 1250 m We picked a promising looking line, but it needed ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 37 work. We did some route prep while rapping us. After taking in the significance of our position, down like rock scaling and some bolting. I then tied in and headed up. What a fantastic pitch! Steep and airy. Hunter took the gear for Once at the bottom I looked up and was again Pitch 2 and headed out left from underneath the filled with awe at the magnificence of this place. arch. That pitch went quickly and then it was The arch spanned across the sky directly above my turn to head out onto the face of the arch. I’ve never climbed an arch before....here we go! Shortly after starting off there was an unexpected hand slip on a dusty hold then that was followed by a foot slip on a glazed spot. These surprises got me ramped up and focused real fast. I shook off the close call and then moved out further right onto the lip of the arch and looked down. Now this is some wild alpine climbing! With a last deep breath I pulled on top of the arch at its apex. The things we get to experience on this Island :) Summary

May 29, 2019, Conuma Arch

P1: 30 m 5.9

P2: 25 m 5.7 The red line marks the new three-pitch route up the Conuma Arch. (Photo by Chris Jensen) P3: 35 m 5.10a exposed AF

Chris starting up the first pitch beneath the arch. (Photo by Chris Jensen)

38 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 To top out on the summit, climb a low 5th exit (smaller rite-in-rain book). pitch (south side of the arch recommended, north side harder), scramble ridge then a low 5th pitch 2020 update: local First Nations have requested to summit. that people first ask for their permission before climbing Conuma Peak. Gear: Mixed pro, trad/bolts. A single set of cams to #4 and 9 draws. If you don’t mind a run out Participants: Chris Jensen and Hunter Lee on some easy ground on pitch 2, then you could ditch #3 and #4 cams. ______

Rope: we rapped down into the gulley with Reflection Peaks At Last single 60m rope when there was still some snow in it. If snow is gone, then a 60m still works if you approach from bottom of route, climb and Chris Ruttan descend directly back to the north or south June 17-20, 2019 ridges, not going back via the gully. If you want to rap the route when snow is gone, then a ______60m might still also work if you angled right and upslope as you rapped. You should intercept the On June 17th I drove up to Port Alberni and slope in the gully. Otherwise just bring a 70m picked up my hiking partner, Jane Morden, and rope to rap the route when snow is gone. then continued on to Taylor Main where we drove up 14 km to the end of a spur where a trail has Rappels/Anchors: Rap #1 to land on top of arch: been established that takes you on a strenuous 15m off tree. Rap #2 to get off the top of the arch: climb up about 770 m in 2 km to the ridge. We 27m bolts. Rap #3 to get under the arch: 25m left the car at 6:30 p.m. and got to the ridge crest off a juniper bush and/or horn. Rap #4 to land in two hours and fifteen minutes later and spent bottom of gully: 30m off bolts, but it will be more the night there. Our goal was to continue on this than 30m as the snow melts out. Snow was ~3m ridge heading west till we reached a point near deep so rap straight down will be ~33m without the terminus where we could possibly find our snow. way down to a meadow bench that we could then use to hike over to a col that we hoped we Water up high will be an issue once snow melts could use to connect us to an open meadow at off. Bring lots up from whichever ridge you’re the base of three lovely, remote peaks that are approaching from. You could drive up the spur not named but are decidedly attractive and reach across the Conuma valley to look into the gully way into the area just south of Nine Peaks. to see if there’s still snow in there that could be melted for water. We were up and gone by 7:30 a.m. hiking the ridge, which we knew well from previous trips in If you fall off the arch make sure you know how the area: we also knew that it was no easy task to get yourself back up from free hanging space. finding a way down the south face due to a cliff You can’t lower, you have to go up. band about 12- 15 m high that seemed to have no easy spot to descend. We tried a new route We liked our approach route (~3hrs to bottom of from our previous attempts but it just pushed us arch), but to get to the summit there are several back up every time we dropped and we ended pitches of low 5th climbing and then slow bushy up at a spot we had skied down earlier in the raps on the return. The south side approach has spring. There was a steep, nasty creek gulley less time consuming climbing, but more bush. there so we crossed it where it was easy and Fastest route might be from the south ridge? hand-railed down the other side till we hit a sort of bench choked with brush, like all the rest of This is a top notch wild route. It’s in great shape this hillside, and we then popped out onto the now for other parties. Good pro. If you go up top of the damned cliff. We could look down and then please take a new summit log book with you see a lovely flat bench leading down to the col

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 39 we were trying to get to but we were 10 m above the ascender’s right, so I figured who would know it. We back tracked along the small bench till we better than the guys who live here and I used came to the stream and found a way to cross it, it wherever I could see it. It’s a pity bears don’t very nasty and a bit risky but we got through and carry machetes with them because the brush found a way down through the brush and a down- on the steps between outcrops of rock were sloping slab till we got to the meadow at last. awesome thick. I finally called it and went back to the tent site for dinner. The right side was the This meadow area is quite large and worthy right side, so to speak, and tomorrow would be of some further exploration but another time soon enough to climb it. perhaps; we were now able to head west again towards the col. I had done a fair amount of At dinner that evening we decided that we would Google Earthing on this route and I knew this call this Thousand Pond Col because everywhere col had several ponds on it and one fairly large you go there is a pond. They are tucked away lake but what I couldn’t see on that platform was all over the place, some small, some big, but all how difficult and brushy the terrain was in the over. We had a quiet night till 4:45 a.m. when a col. Instead of the usual sort of open, sub-alpine large male grouse decided that a spot about eight spine with lovely meadows and easy walking this feet from our tent would make a delightful spot to place is a maze of rock ridges with very steep thrum up a girlfriend, I got a photo of him but not sides, choked with dense brush between them, in full display. and they run along the length of the col making it hard to explore or move about. We were on the route by 7 a.m., June 19 and thankfully with just day packs because the way We set up camp there because the route ahead up was a pretty good thrash through heavy brush looked like it needed some serious exploration and steep little rock steps till we reached the top without packs: it certainly wasn’t going to be of that section, and then it turned into a forest of easy and though we had hoped to camp higher wonderful giant trees growing on a very steep where there was a pretty lake in a nice meadow hillside. We went left there and followed a sort of we decided to stop. We set up on a smooth bench that almost looked like a road contouring rock above a small tarn that was pretty warm around the shoulder of the hill. A short distance and I had a nice swim to cool off and take some in and the bench petered out forcing us to begin of the bigger bits of grime off. After a brief rest to climb and it’s pretty steep up before you can and lunch we began to look around and to see really begin to traverse. You have to start the if we could get to the bigger lake we had seen traverse where the cliffs above stop you from on the computer. We crashed around in the going up any higher; from there you try to keep brush, climbed up on the rock spines, scrambled rising till you can see above the trees opening up down one and up the next, thrashed through more brush and finally stood looking down on a really pretty lake of a fair size but still likely 30 m below us and no way down there.

We hiked along the ridge and managed to find our way down a bit but it was getting late and I still needed to scout a route up the cliffs that formed the spine of the ridge as it rose again towards our goal. We found a slightly easier way to get back to the top of the col and then I went off snooping around for the way up. Here and there I could see a game trail and it seemed to trend to Reflection Lake. (Photo by Chris Rattan)

40 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 and there is a wet meadow area coming down straight forward but Jane was doubtful and so we the hillside. Beware here! We have been back negotiated a turn-around time and then set off to this spot a couple of times and every time along the ridge. we have run into one or more bears; this time there was a very large black ass sticking out of a It’s a delight to hike along a ridge where, on the cluster of slide alder and the brush was so thick west side, you can look down into the valley I almost walked right into it. I started to back the formed by Ursus Creek – a beautiful, untouched hell up, but when Jane saw it she hollered at it verdant green running across the terrain to the and I would have liked to have been somewhat – and on the other side we could farther away when he pulled his head out of the look down into the massive cirque to the east shrubbery. To my relief he just ran up onto a rock formed by these three peaks, and out across the outcrop where he stopped to check us out then drainage into the bigger drainage of the west end he walked away down slope, so we charged up of Great Central Lake. In no time at all we were the hill as fast as the incredibly thick bush would starting up the second peak, which was a bit let us. From there we came up under yet another steeper and had lots of loose rock so we stayed cliff band which we hand-railed underneath till we close together as we scrambled up to the top. came to the meadow where the lake is and what From there it was just too close not to take in the a beautiful spot! third, and highest, peak so we scrambled down and across the gap then up to the top where we Our goal was to try to get all three peaks in today found no evidence of climbers or surveyors, no so we didn’t linger long. We headed up past the cairn, no garbage. lake into the high point of the col then followed a ridge up towards the first of the three peaks until I built a small cairn and we hunkered down out of we ran into a cliff band that does a pretty good the wind for a quick snack but it was very cold so job of blocking the way up. we were soon on our way back along the ridge to the first peak then down the way we came up till Here we found a breach in the wall where a we reached the lake, where it was considerably creek comes down and we were able to scramble warmer, and there we stopped for a nice long up that to some easier ground above and from break. We were ahead of schedule so we hung there a straight forward hike up a steep but out there till black clouds began to blow in from manageable slope. By about 10 a.m. we were the south and rain was threatening so we headed on top of the first peak. I could see we had an back to the tent and almost made it before the excellent chance to reach the other two higher rain. It was 5 p.m. and so a 10-hour round trip. points and the connecting ridge was really The rain stopped long enough for us to have

Reflection Peaks from Dragon Ridge. (Photo by Chris Rattan) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 41 dinner and then it began again at about 7 p.m. ______After a bit it stopped and we just had gusty wind all night. Climbs in the Lower Tsitika Area: Catherine Peak, Mount Kokish, June 20th we packed up and left but we didn’t use our down route to return: I found a better way Tsitika Mountain and Tsitika Mountain back but that is another story and likely as many Southeast words as this one (sorry). June 25 Participants : Jane Morden, Chris Ruttan Lindsay Elms June 26, July 11, October 5, 2019 ______In between the climbs of the Kla- anch Peaks, Laurence Philippsen and I started making forays into the lower Tsitika River area, specifically between Catherine Creek and Kokish River. The Catherine Main was gradually punched farther and farther up Catherine Creek until it finally connected to Kokish Creek. Accessing Kokish Creek was usually from Telegraph Cove and I knew the logging roads were in relatively good shape from talking with the local cavers in Port McNeil. Laurence and I first noticed these roads when we climbed one of the peaks in the Bonanza Range from near Claud Elliot Lake and Peak 1450 to the west of the Tsitika River in 2018. A few years ago, I had looked at these Catherine – Tsitika – Kokish area roads and routes. peaks on my topo map and penciled

Catherine Peak – Bonanza Range. (Photo by Lindsay Elms)

42 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 them in as future climbs. The future was now. The weather forecast was a little iffy but Laurence June 25 and I decided to head back up to the Catherine/ Kokish saddle and climb a summit we were I can’t remember why Laurence and I didn’t drive calling Mount Kokish. The mountain is at the in the afternoon before, but I met Laurence at his head of the Kokish River. We just wanted to day- place in Black Creek at 2 a.m. It was pitch black trip it so I texted a couple of friends to see if they outside, but we knew the sun would be rising wanted to join us. Although most of them are early as it was, or almost was, the longest day retired, they are busy sailing, cycling or pursuing of the year, and the forecast was for a beautiful some physical outdoor pursuit; however, the only day. By the time we were driving up the upper one free was Rob Heron, so he decided come Catherine Main it was getting light out and we along for the adventure. Again, we left in the early could see the road winding up towards the hours of the morning and pulled into our parking saddle between the Catherine and Kokish Rivers. spot not long after it got light. The sky was gray, Not far beyond the saddle we parked at a de- the clouds swirling and there was a little moisture activated road and got ready to hike up through in the air. Getting a little damp wasn’t going to the slash, but before we did a pick-up came by. kill us. From the vehicle we headed up into the We chatted with the logger and he told us that forest and got onto a ridge which then curved all they were road-building and logging up a side the way around to the northwest to the summit of valley a little farther down the Kokish. We stored Mount Kokish (1365m). One and a quarter hour that info away for later. It was a short fifteen up and forty-five down. Another short, easy climb minutes through the slash before we entered and we were back home not long after lunch and, the old growth. We constantly trended northeast no, we didn’t get wet. as we were aiming for a saddle between Peak 1497 to the south and the summit we were calling Participants: Laurence Philippsen, Rob Heron Catherine Peak—a peak three kilometres to the and Lindsay Elms. south of Tsitika Mountain. October 5 We arrived at the saddle in just over an hour, a time when many people are still asleep in their Since climbing Kokish Peak, Laurence, Val and beds. It was then less than thirty minutes from myself had returned up the Catherine Creek to the saddle to the summit of Catherine Peak the east side of the Bonanza Range and had a (1554m). The time was 7:40 a.m. Both of us beautiful day climbing from the huge scree basins had cell reception so we fired a couple of quick to the top of a couple of the peaks. However, with texts home and then scrambled south down and the logging strike on we decided we had to get across to Peak 1497. Across the Kokish River back into the upper Kokish Creek area and climb to the southeast we were looking at smaller the one last peak I hadn’t been up yet—Tsitika Mount Kokish and knew we would be back in Mountain Southeast. Because of the strike we the area soon. Behind Mount Kokish was the knew the loggers weren’t working and the road whole spectacular Bonanza Range. Recent builders were also off. Since Tsitika Mountain logging roads appeared to give easy access to Southeast is so close to Tsitika Mountain we some of these beautiful peaks. Although I had decided to climb both peaks. Tsitika was also previously climbed all of the peaks, I knew we one of the few bigger peaks up island that Val would be back to climb them again, only from this hadn’t climbed and now that she was feeling side. With such easy access, today’s climb and more comfortable moving in the mountains after descent was short and we were back in Black her accident, she wanted to climb. Again, we left Creek by 2 p.m. home in the early hours of the morning. Laurence and I knew the roads went high in the side valley Participants: Laurence Philippsen and Lindsay south of Tsitika Mountain but once we drove in Elms. there, we were surprised at how high they went— to almost 1200 m. As soon as we stepped out of July 11 the vehicle, we walked into the old growth, which

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 43 We spent fifteen minutes on the summit of the southeast peak and then dropped down into a beautiful draw which angled over towards the south ridge of Tsitika Mountain. A short steep little climb up from the draw and we were on the ridge where in places we followed game trails. We had one small bump to go over and then the final climb to the summit. However, before gaining the summit plateau we stopped for lunch in a sheltered spot where we were protected from

Tsitika Peak. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) was open with very little underbrush. It was a real treat climbing up towards the ridge. An easy hour saw us on the ridge and twenty minutes later we were standing on the summit of Tsitika Mountain Southeast (1534 m). As with many of the other mountains we had climbed this year, there were no cairns or sign of anyone having climbing the peaks. There were a few clouds swirling around the summit of Tsitika Mountain (1657 m), Descending Tsitika Mountain (Photo by Lindsay Elms) but there was no rain forecast until later in the afternoon. The main summit was beckoning. the cool breeze. After eating and feeling a little more energized we had to contend with a short section of thick Krumholtz, but once through them the summit flattened out and we encountered a few inches of snow. Ahead of us we could see two summits, but we weren’t sure which was the higher. Of course, we went up to the lower of the two and had to traverse across to the surveyor’s large summit cairn which we couldn’t see from lower down. It had been almost twenty years since I was last on the summit and there was more logging surrounding the mountain. The return to the vehicle was uneventful, as one hopes it will be, and I was happy that I had finally climbed everything in the area that I had wanted to. Val was also happy to get Tsitika Mountain under her belt and as usual Laurence was just happy to be in the mountains. This wasn’t our last climb for the season as Val and I headed back up to Port McNeil and climbed Maynard Peak across the valley from Merry Widow Mountain, I noted a lot more mountains up in that area of the island and knew that next year this is an area that all three of us will be focusing on. There are always Val and Laurence on the summit of Tsitika Mountain. more mountains to climb and the weird things is (Photo by Lindsay Elms) they seem to be continuously popping up where

44 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 there were none before. Ah well, I guess I am Who said nostalgia isn’t what it used to be? As going to be busy for awhile yet. we drive over Sutton Pass it is as if I’ve gone through a time warp and suddenly pops into my head the sound of Crissie Hynde of the Participants: Laurence Philippsen, Val Wootton Pretenders belting out Brass in Pocket, which and Lindsay Elms. she almost always did back in the ‘80s as Rick Eppler and I drove the Alberni-Tofino road in ______search of adventure. The two of us spent many A Return to Triple Peak of the spring-times during 1980-1984 exploring both sides of Hwy 4 (see Rick’s Bushwhacker article (1988, 16:4)). As we picked off peaks Rob Macdonald on our list, the summit views always seemed June 30, 2019 to be dominated by that attractive set of three

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In 2017, my friends decided a spring training assault on Triple Peak might be a good idea. They coerced me to join them and, led by Karun Thanjavur, we drove up Island, turned off Hwy 4 onto Marion Main and drove to the end of the road, where a small sign indicated the way to Triple Peak – apparently downward to start. As they say, any trail is better than no trail; this one offers a few interesting bits (classical Island), but after a couple of hours we duly arrived at the small lake where we set up camp in the snow. The next day we woke to a truly Scottish rain. The snowy traverse high above the tarn in 1984. No vis, no peak, no dry spot, no nuttin. A retreat. (Photo by Rick Eppler)

Another year slips by faster than one of Jackson Browne’s summer fields, and I find myself in late October gazing once again at Triple Peak from the ‘about to be opened’ hut on 5040. The north flanks looked dry and bare, but ... maybe next year... I thought to myself. And so, in the spring of 2019, here I am again traveling up Island with Karun Thanjavur and Rick Johnson aiming ourselves at a spring assault on Triple.

The way to Triple Pk. (Photo by Rob Macdonald) Looking down on the tarn in 1984. (Photo by Rick Eppler) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 45 mysterious tusks thrusting out of snowy flanks. make it interesting. As we passed the tarn, I “Needs to be climbed” said Rick, repeating what noted the demise of snow; we were a couple he’d said a week or two before. And so, on a of weeks earlier than the trip in 1984, but the sunny day in mid-July, 1984, there we were place was bone dry and bare. As we proceeded crossing those snowy flanks, with our long-held from this point, it seemed clear that the snowy objective in view. flanks of Triple Peak – the feature that gave it such an alluring appearance from afar – were Fast forward. Thirty-five years later almost to the disappearing. day, here I am again at the end of Marion Main setting up tents with Karun and Rick Johnson. I dropped down to inspect the trailhead, next to which three young lads were lounging by their van. One of them called over to me, asking “have you been here before?” I answered tersely “yes, but that was many years ago,” keeping to myself the logical finish “long before you were born, sonny.” He seemed to lose interest, but plunged on anyway to tell me that they were planning to go up the next day, not to climb the peak, as he called it, but, rather, they were going to explore the upper lake. I remembered my first view of that pond as a frozen flattening ringed with a necklace of turquoise overflow ponds nestled in rock a few hundred feet below me. On that distant day in 1984 we had climbed up the ridge on the right flank of the depression that corrals the stream you follow on the present-day trail, popped out high in the alpine, and traversed well above the now-traditional tarn to set up camp.

The next day dawned clear and, after a quick munch on something, Karun, Rick and I were off up the trail. It was far easier without a heavy Starting up the main tower in 1984. (Photo by Rob pack, but enough below US Park standards to Macdonald)

Soon we stood beneath the north wall of the main summit. It was hard to remember exactly where Rick and I had surmounted in 1984: we had cast around, back and forth, and eventually attacked the likely-looking shallow depression on the right hand side. It looked like it had sufficient holds to get one up the necessary half-rope length. I don’t remember much about it, but I did snap a quick shot of Rick before setting off up the wall.

Today, having plenty of time and some interest in what was now The less snowy traverse to Triple Pk in 2019. (Photo by Rob Macdonald) apparently the via-normale, we 46 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Rob on the summit of Triple Peak in 1984. (Photo by Rob and Karun on the summit of Triple Peak in 2019). Rick Eppler) (Photo by Karun Tanjavur) traversed over snow to the left-hand side of the I now regret that we did not get a summit picture tower and mounted a short, steep pitch of hard of the two us in 1984 that would have matched snow to gain a shaded notch. From there, a bit of the one of Karun and me, but I guess we were a tunnel to pass through and then a bush gorilla not planning for such a distant future. traverse above a short chimney put us at the bottom of the ‘ascent gully.’ Rick had wrenched I have no doubt in my mind that my life without himself on the krummholz traverse and decided mountaineering would have been very different to give it a rest while Karun and I continued up and definitely the poorer for it. It is significant, this gully, me with the first lead, Karun to finish it I think, that I can remember so many features off. From the top of the gully, it was but a short of that day in 1984, and yet have forgotten the horseshoe traverse through krummholtz traverse pabulum of most other days that have passed. and there I was, after 35 years, standing at So many things have changed in those three the broken summit, gazing out over the Hwy 4 and a half decades – my old Rolei Camera now terrain. It is hard to describe the rush of emotion replaced by a Sony Nex 7, but out here sitting that invades your mind at a time like this; all atop Triple Pk, the loss of snow and ice seems those heady days, as Rick used to call them, most poignant. and here I was, after a long, long, time left for a period of silence to ponder the good friends I had This mountain remains one of my favorites on and the good friends I’d lost along the way. I’m the Island, and is certainly my favorite Hwy 4 shortly joined by my climbing partner, Karun, and collectable. I’m tickled that this peak’s northern it seems a fine day to share with this gentle soul face sits right in the picture window of the Island’s the success of our climb and the rewarding view. new hut on 5040. A deserved place.

The view to the SW from the summit in late June, The view to the SW from the summit in late June, 1984. (Photo by Rob Macdonald) 2019. (Photo by Rob Macdonald) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 47 ______

Rockfall on Victoria Peak

Aldous Sperl July 8, 2019

______

Slowly but surely I’ve been ticking off the Island Qualifier list. Each summer I have the goal of completing as many of them as possible but it usually ends up just being less than planned. After summitting Nine Peaks with John Ballantyne in June, next on the list was a Victoria and Warden combo. Peter Gilbert had inspired me with a facebook post showing that you could do both of them in a day. So that was our goal as well.

Rick Johnson keeping a watchful eye on Rob's last rappel off On a weekend in July, Chris Sandl and I saw a Triple Peak. (Photo by Karun Thanjavur) Sunday evening – Monday morning clear weather opportunity to try for it. The down side was that it Back over to the top of the gully, and Karun and I was raining up to that weather window and right find three others in the midst of climbing up; this after. So on a rather rainy Sunday in July, we is no longer a lonely, isolated peak in Vancouver drove out to Victoria peak, stopping for dinner in Island’s bush. My, my – two groups in one day. Campbell River. We took the WR381 road up as Karun and I put in two quick rappels past the high as we could and then started the bushwhack threesome and leave them to the peak. Two upwards around 7 p.m. Within 15 minutes of more short rappels get all three of us down to being in the bush we were thoroughly soaked. walking territory. The brush was soaking and as we bashed our way upwards we got drenched. Luckily it was As we drive over Sutton Pass on the way home, only an hour’s hike to the alpine. suddenly I can hear Doug and Slugs – Too Bad – and again I drift back to the ‘80s. Perhaps I Once in the alpine we made quick time in the appreciate more than I did then the opportunity to fading light. We wanted to make it up close to blow away a day climbing with good partners and the col between Warden and Victoria Peak, and spending a day together thrashing Vancouver had heard of some flat ledges to camp on above Island’s bush. Rick tells me a chocolate malted the treeline. With a little bit of searching we did milkshake awaits at Whisky Creek; life is better end up finding enough of a flat spot to throw a than good – it’s superb. small tarp up and sleep under it (luckily the bugs Participants: Karun Thanjavur, Rick Johnson and weren’t a factor up that high). We were doing this Rob Macdonald trip as light as possible - no tent, no stove, no luxuries. Just a really basic sleeping set up and our climbing gear.

Luckily I did bring a few extra items of clothing for which I was very grateful as we set up camp. There was no way some of my soaking-wet clothes were going to dry without direct sunlight

48 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 on them but they’d served their purpose to get us we aimed for the easiest line we could find and to where we were. A granola bar for desert and started climbing. We did pass one sling along the then it was time for bed. way which made me think that we were likely on the right route – but that was it. The rest of it was We woke up around 4:30 a.m. Scarfed down a guesswork. Slowly but surely we climbed up one few granola bars, packed up what we needed pitch at a time. The weather was glorious - the for the day (now down to a very basic backpack sun was out, and we had clear skies with a sea of - food, water, inReach, headlamp, raingear, cloud below us. Up we went, sometimes up some camera, and climbing gear) threw on the questionable lines but for the most part it was crampons and started for the col. We reached good rock and fun climbing. the col around 6 a.m. and made quick work of Warden Peak - going up the standard route. After reaching the summit and coming back to the col without incident, we decided to try for the Northeast Ridge of Victoria Peak, and started climbing around 8 a.m. A route description in Island Alpine Select showed it as a 5.8 climb for 8 pitches. This was within our level so… we figured why not go for it.

Unfortunately few people seem to climb this route so we didn’t have a lot to guide us on what the actual route was. Not letting that deter us, Aldous Sperl atop Victoria Pk. (Photo by Chris Sandl)

After reaching the summit we had a quick break and then started our decent. We knew bad weather was coming in that evening so we wanted to be off the mountain well before then. Plus Chris had to work the next day back in Victoria.

We were descending without incident until the 4th rappel – where things went awry. All I remember from this part of the trip was being on rappel

Chris Sandl starting the first rappel off Victoria Peak Climbing the NE Ridge route on Victoria Pk. (Photo by prior to the accident. (Photo by Aldous Sperl) Chris Sandl) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 49 enjoying myself, and then suddenly waking up Victoria Peak… right? Who am I with? Oh yeah with Chris above me asking me questions. I’d Chris he’s right there. Cool. Where am I again? been knocked out by a falling rock! You get the idea.

Apparently, the rope had dislodged a rock above After three rappels we then had to down climb me which then came crashing down on my a pretty steep snow section with a few big helmet (cracking the helmet) and knocking me crevasses to navigate around. Normally this unconsciousness. Thankfully I had my prusik would be no big deal but in my current state I was on which caught my fall. My climbing partner not comfortable at all doing this so Chris belayed Chris, meanwhile, had no idea what was going me from above while I slowly made my way down on below. He’d seen a rock get dislodged by the - step by step. Thankfully, by the time we got rope but hadn’t seen it hit me. He kept calling my back to the col I was feeling pretty good. name wondering what was going on but getting no response. After a few minutes he heard some From there it was a short hike to our camp, a groaning below and after a lot of yanking on the quick pack-up (with Chris taking the majority of rope was able to get himself on rappel and came the weight) and a scramble back down out of the down to investigate. alpine. We ended up following the wrong trail on the way down though so the bushwhack was a lot He found me groaning, semi-conscious lying on longer and more intense than anticipated. It felt small ledge. Now, Chris had to determine what like it took forever and I fell and slipped several to do. We did have the inReach with us but… times – in reality it probably only took an hour or we weren’t in a good place to be rescued (still two. several pitches up the face), the weather was likely to change this evening and we didn’t have Back to the car and then back to Campbell River. any way of setting up a shelter on this ledge. I called the Nurse’s hotline when we were in Plus my condition seemed to be improving. So range of service and they were insistent that I he held off pressing SOS and waited to see if I needed to go to the hospital right away. Good would come around. After 15 minutes or so I was advice given what had happened I suppose. So able to have a dazed conversation. I couldn’t after a quick bite (we hadn’t eaten anything since remember my address but I could remember my noon) I spent several hours in the hospital. The girlfriend’s name. Could I stand - yes. Was I able hospital folks were great and I even got a cat to continue going down - I think so. In my dazed scan that night. Thankfully no issues. state I completely relied on Chris to get me off the mountain. He set up the next few rappels I took it easy the rest of the week and it took a and would put me on fully (including a prussik) while for the headaches and neck pains to go and then go down himself and wait for me at the away but two months later I can now safely say bottom (ready to yank on the ropes to control my that it was a full recovery. descent if need be). I’ve replayed the scenario in my head so many I was pretty proud of myself at that point in time. times. How did this happen? Were we prepared At this point in my life rappelling has become enough? Did I take enough time looking for so second nature that I had zero problem going potential rocks that could be dislodged? Should down despite feeling very woozy (similar to being we have done anything differently? My only real drunk and having a splitting headache at the conclusion was that from now on I’m always same time). I actually remember enjoying the going to carry an emergency bivy sack + down experience. My thought pattern went something jacket so that if a situation ever arises where like this - wow - I am so out of it - yet I’m movement is impossible - at least there’s a rappelling down this mountain… cool. Woah - waterproof sack the victim can stay in and wait look how cool this is. Where am I again? Woah for help with some warmth. cool cloud - oh yeah don’t forget to step. This is

50 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Sometimes accidents happen, particularly in the Coast. Non-flexible Summer schedules. Kids not mountains. I’m just very grateful it wasn’t worse having enough stoke. As our final chance in the than it was. Lessons to take to the bank: always calendar approaches the decision is made to go wear a helmet, always use a prusik, always go for it. See how far we get and hope for decent with someone who you trust. Stay safe out there! weather.

Participants: Aldous Sperl and Chris Sandl So off we go to meet the boat at the dock at the time we’ve arranged. Three dads, one son, three ______daughters and me. Our water taxi driver, Annie, is immediately curious as to what our group is Mt Mariner: A Journey From Sea to Sky getting up to. The kids, bikes, climbing ropes and ice axes give us away and we tell her of our plan. Shanda Lembcke She is excited for us, which is perfect because July 17-20 2019 our motto for the Youth Section has become “Stoke is major!” ______After an invigorating 45 minute ride up Clayoquot When a person approaches you and says “I Sound we disembark and get on our bikes. The have a great idea for a trip” you tend to stop forecasted heavy rain arrives as we are set to hear what it is. When the proposal is to take in motion but spirits are high as some of the a water taxi loaded with bikes from Tofino and Wilderness Resort Staff who have gathered wish packs full of climbing gear to then ride 7 km to us happy trails the trailhead and then walk many kilometres up to cross a glacier to climb Mt Mariner (1771 m) Arriving at the trailhead, we swap into dry you might think the proposal intriguing. When you footwear and keep the wet clothes on under find out it’s a plan for Youth Section of the Alpine ponchos. The forest will surely be dripping. It is Club you may exclaim “no way –too ambitious!”. easy going for the first part of the Bedwell River When this proposal is made by a person you Trail. So straightforward that we all walk past trust, it may also feel okay to say yes. So I decide the overgrown turnoff. We’ve arrived at a river to go with this ambitious plan and soon there that is flowing in the wrong direction to what we are a few families on board. We are lucky to expect. After some scratching of heads we turn receive a Youth Grant from the ACCVI Memorial back towards where we came from and the fork Fund which will help offset our transportation in the road is revealed. We’ve lost some time expenses. but gain insight into how direction can become complicated. As a group we were easily trudging It almost didn’t happen. The weather on the West forward and following along one behind the other on a well-marked trail. A lesson not lost on any of us. A creek up ahead is impassable from the day’s rain so the decision is made to set up camp and hope we wake to blue sky and a mellow creek. As I relax in the warmth of my sleeping bag. I think of the challenges that we’ll encounter the next day. Stefan and Aila, my tent companions, are clearly not as concerned. Both are sound asleep.

Day Two. No blue sky but we’re well rested. The creek has been assessed and has reportedly receded to only a trickle. We will be able to cross Tuning up the bikes. (Photo by Shanda Lembke) it easily. Again, insight is gained. A few hours can

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 51 really change a situation! With packs on we warm up fast as we move our way up. The anticipated Living Bridge is next. To say that I am not looking forward to this is an understatement. My stoke is not major at this moment. We’ve come prepared for this part and also know there is a possibility that this could be the turnaround point if it proves that the bridge is too decomposed to safely cross. Andrew goes first and declares it stable and, judging by the grin on his face, it must be exhilarating. With rope and harnesses we all go across one at a time. It is a relief to be on the other side. We are now on the century-old Noble Creek Miners Trail and at a rest stop we discover remnants of a wood stove, bedsprings, sinks, pots and pans. We believe this to be the cabin site of the well known miner, Walter Guppy. Soon we reach the long scree slope that will get us to the Col. The rain starts to pelt down on us and the ponchos go back on. I do wonder if the summit is the cards for our group. We can’t take the kids higher up the mountain if the weather doesn’t clear! Regardless of the rain, the group is content. Nathan, the oldest youth at 17, much to my fascination, has carried a bag of chips up and they are still whole, He offers this salty Donna's first rock climb. (Photo by Shanda Lembke) crunchy treat around as we take shelter under some massive boulders. The two youngest in Donna flows so easily up the steep scree that she our group, Nina (14) and Donna (10), have never stays ahead of most of us occasionally turning been into the mountains on Vancouver Island but back with a smile to yell to her dad, Huib, to hurry they show no sign of discomfort or fatigue. In fact, up. He is clearly enjoying this challenge. It has

Taking shelter on the scree slope. (Photo by Shanda Lembke)

52 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 been about an hour slogging up in the torrential situated bergschrund. We all agree that this rain and upon reaching the top she turns to now is definitely mountaineering! There are a exclaim “that was fun!”. With the downpour and few pitched-out sections but mostly we move gusts of colder alpine air we all work fast to get carefully up towards the summit. This is the fun the tents up. Shelter out of the incessant wind part- holding on to nice grippy rock, stepping and and rain is the desired objective now. Into our pulling our way towards the top. Even though tents we all retreat with hope that the morning will hopes of ocean views are mostly gone due to bring a clear sky. thick cloud we are exhilarated to arrive at the top. High fives all around, a can of yerba mate, Day Three and no rain. Another long day is chocolate and messages written in the summit anticipated and we manage to get the group in register -we did it! motion by 7 a.m. Some nice scrambly terrain takes us to a slabby section where the ropes The weather starts to close in and we know that come out. The short rock climb excites us. Are we this is only half way...camp is still many hours mountaineering now? away. Careful steps off the summit lead us to a steep snow field where we decide to assist From there we encounter another quick pitch in fun belays down. It is always entertaining to and steep forest until getting to the south glacier. watch the different flow styles that are achieved. We rope up and make our way up the long slope We descend down the block and back onto the that leads us to a fun step through to the north glacier. Again, this part feels long but one foot glacier. By now the views are getting good but the after another and another we are back on the overcast sky is threatening to shut those down. south glacier and then down to the tree line. We Nearing the summit block we are forced to show left camp about 10 hours ago and all are clearly our respect towards a small but intimidatingly happy to be back to take boots off and cook up a warm dinner. We’ve all basically fared pretty well except Nathan’s feet. His plastic boots from the day before were a bad fit and after today his feet are shredded. We all enjoy our dinner and even some baths in the tarns near camp. Off to bed with that sweet sense of accomplishment.

Day four. We are on our way by 8 a.m., flowing down the scree slope and boulder field in much dryer conditions. The boat is scheduled to pick us up around 3:30 so we know we need to keep a good pace. Good time is made, breaks are taken and conversation is flowing. Donna, Nina and Aila have become a giggly silly gang and a few times they are reminded to watch their steps. They fall behind and we wait to hear their laughter approach. We are down in the dense forest and close to the trail but, as the girls approach us this time, Nina is limping and can hardly stand on one foot. She has twisted her ankle. The tensor bandage gets wrapped on and contents of her backpack are distributed out. This is another great insight. One injured person unable to walk well affects us all. We are all in Nathan enjoying a summit refreshment. (Photo by this together and it becomes clear that our pace Shanda Lembke) has slowed dramatically. She is stoic although ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 53 Back at the wharf. (Photo by Shanda Lembke) clearly in discomfort. For her it will be especially Trip Participants: Trip Leader- Stefan Gessinger, good to get back on the bike and take weight off Aila Gessinger, Andrew Welsh, Nathan Welsh, her feet. The living bridge gets crossed again with Huib De Roo, Donna De Roo, Nina De Roo and harnesses and ropes on, even though now we Shanda Lembcke. are all mostly unfazed and feeling confident. A bit more trudging and we’re at the suspension bridge and then our stashed bikes. Riding out the last ______7 km is a new experience. I wish I could always have my bike stashed awaiting my tired feet. I’ve Beginner friendly all women Traverse also never experienced a cheering section as I of the Forbidden Plateau finish a climb. Some of the Wilderness Resort Staff hoot and holler, congratulating our success Janelle Curtis as we pedal by. August 23-25, 2019

Annie arrives in the boat. She is glad to see ______us and even offers us local fresh fruit. We are happy to be back on her boat where we sit and The Forbidden Plateau derives its name from enjoy the view of Mariner Mountain behind us. folklore about a group of women and children We went there! By boat, bikes and our bodies who vanished during a raid of the K’omoks First we got ourselves to the top and back down AND Nation. The tribe’s women and children used we even had fun. I contemplate how ambitious to hide on the plateau when other tribes raided I thought this trip plan was. I really believed it them. Legend has it that when a member of the was too big. Perhaps the final insight is for me K’omoks First Nation went looking for them there, alone. My doubts and fears were only worries he found red lichen on the snow and rocks and of failure. When the plan is put in place and the assumed it was the blood of the missing women momentum has a chance to get started the big and children. And so, the plateau became taboo objective is quite possible. Again I have learned because it was assumed to be haunted by evil that step by step, one obstacle at a time I can get spirits. Fortunately, we didn’t encounter any myself to places that seem from a dream. For this evil spirits during our traverse of the Forbidden trip though, I get to share the journey with three Plateau, and we all made it back home safely wonderful, energetic and open-hearted families. afterwards.

54 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Lenka Visnovska and I have been co-leading all (and knowing how to use) an emergency satellite women beginner friendly hikes most summers communication device on such an adventure. since 2013. In August 2019, we had the great We expected a bit of rain during our hike and pleasure of co-leading another one with Christine brought a few lightweight tarps just in case. More Rivers of the Island Mountain Ramblers. The than twenty women expressed interest in joining Forbidden Plateau Traverse was an excellent us, but in the end, we were eight intrepid hikers option for us because it gave us the opportunity - five from the ACCVI and three from the Island to camp at scenic Kwai Lake in one of Strathcona Mountain Ramblers. Park’s developed campgrounds the first night and in the backcountry at Drabble Lakes on the We began our hike at Raven Lodge and passed second night. Although that traverse can be hiked Battleship, Lady, and Croteau Lakes on the easily in one or two days, we wanted to take our way to Kwai Lake. Hiking past those lakes is time so we could enjoy the beauty of that less a picturesque way to start the traverse. We travelled route and share our knowledge of hiking took some time at Croteau Lake to bandage in the backcountry with others. I appreciated developing blisters. We also evaluated the weight that the trail was very well maintained (thank of our backpacks and decided to pour out our you CDMC!) and didn’t involve any technical extra water because we knew that we could challenges, although, I am much slower when easily find and treat water on our route when we hiking downhill since my accident in 2016, needed some.Before we arrived at Kwai Lake, especially when there are delicious berries to passing hikers asked us where our male leader sample! was. That was a somewhat awkward question for our group! One of them said he thought his friend Lenka, Christine, and I worked with members was volunteering to join us. We joked about their of our group to prepare for this adventure comments afterwards and concluded that they by reviewing clothing, food, cooking, water probably knew they shouldn’t say something like purification, weather forecasts, and carpooling. that but were trying to be amusing. We encouraged everyone to pack lightly. We also reviewed our gear list, trip plan, navigation, first aid, food storage, and the importance of having

Shannon, Janelle, Wiebke, Lenka and Alcina hiking Lenka and Janelle being "Wild Women" in one of past Battleship Lake. (Photo by Christine Rivers) the Drabble Lakes. (Photo by Alcina de Oliveira) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 55 After we set up camp at Kwai Lake, Lenka and I went to Mariwood Lake while the rest of the group enjoyed the view at Cruickshank Canyon. That evening, we all shared much laughter and lessons learned during the first day of our hike.

The next morning, we continued along our traverse through the subalpine forest to Drabble Lakes. On the way, we hiked through Mackenzie Meadows and hid amidst the tall grasses and flowers. After we set up camp, Lenka and I went for a swim in the mist just as a few raindrops fell. Those were the only raindrops we felt during our three days of hiking. Fortunately, we were already wet! Others also enjoyed the lake that evening and the next morning before we gathered for another hearty breakfast.

During our last day of hiking, most of us made a short side trip part to the summit of Indianhead Mountain. Then some picked berries and relaxed at the junction with the trail to Mount Becher while Christine, Shannon, and Wiebke climbed Mount Alcina sampling some of the blueberries along the Becher and enjoyed views of the surrounding way. (Photo by Janelle Curtis) mountains. After they returned, we hiked down to the parking area of the former and overgrown Forbidden Plateau ski hill, where we were picked

Group photo at the end of our traverse. From left to right: Janelle, Wiebke, Christine, Shannon, Alcina, Lenka, Brenda, and Debora. (Photo by an anonymous hiker at Raven Lodge) 56 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 up by Ambassador Transportation who brought us back to Raven Lodge. The subalpine forest of mountain hemlock was dominated by huckleberries, blueberries, and salmonberries. Fortunately, we took three days to complete our traverse - we were all very slow because we stopped often to savour berries along the way!

We enjoyed getting to know each other and learning how to camp overnight in the backcountry. A few of us had not been camping overnight in the backcountry before and some of us with more experience relearned skills related to hanging food from trees and navigation (e.g. use of map and compass, as well as applications such as ViewRanger and Gaia GPS). We all learned about packing lightly, preventing blisters, and the importance of clear communication and 1. Geology Map showing the location of the road, trail, staying together as a group. hut, Peak 5040 and the ‘plateau’ area (Modified from a map created using MapPlace 2 at www.mapplace. Participants: Janelle Curtis, Christine Rivers, ca ) Lenka Visnovska (co-leaders), Alcina de Oliveira, Shannon Flaherty, Wiebke Imsel; Debora ‘Many varied explorations took place: hiking, Krueger, and Brenda Olin. scrambling, rock-climbing, botanizing, birding, and geologizing in the very interesting and ______complex terrain of the “limestone” plateau, and on adjacent peaks and ridges. There was lots to It’s not only beautiful, its interesting! do – things to suit varied interests and abilities.’ The geology of the 5040 Peak area According to a geology map (Figure 1) 5040 Peak consists of Bonanza Group basaltic Maija Finvers to rhyolitic volcanic flows, tuffs and minor August 23, 2019 limestones (in light green), surrounded by a donut of Vancouver Group thick-bedded grey ______limestone and other sedimentary rocks (in blue), with Karmutsen basaltic volcanic rocks beyond The rocks in the vicinity of Hišimy̓ awiƛ (5040 (in darker green). The rocks in the vicinity of Hut) are quite varied and interesting, especially the hut, on the peak and on the ‘plateau’ and those near the col below 5040 Peak and on adjacent ridges best match the descriptions of the ‘plateau’ north-east of the col. I hope the the Bonanza Group. These rocks are 150-250 information and images in this short article about million years old and show several stages of the geology of the area will enhance visitors’ deposition, intrusion, deformation, fracturing and appreciation of this area, just as the scenery and faulting. beautiful alpine flowers do. Interestingly, the ‘plateau’ area was un-vegetated The images accompanying this article were taken except for some alpine flowers growing in the during the first annual ACCVI Section ‘Camp’ gravelly and sandy alluvial fan deposits adjacent at Hišimy̓ awiƛ on August 18-23, 2019 (See to small lakes (Picture 2). It is possible that trip report in the Fall 2019 ACCVI Newsletter the ‘plateau’ area had previously been under a https://accvi.ca/wp-content/uploads/ACCVI- snow-field or small glacier (due to its north-facing NewsletterFall2019.pdf). To quote that article: position) and therefore soil has not had time to

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 57 develop. This area contrasts with nearby ridges which have trees and shrubs growing in pockets of soil except on their most barren ridge tops and rock outcrops.

In Picture 3 and Picture 4 note the strips and blotches of light coloured and brownish coloured rocks and the dark grey limestone lenses.

The brownish rocks are basaltic – containing iron-rich minerals while the light coloured rocks are rhyolites or dacites consisting primarily of fine grained quartz and feldspar minerals (aluminum and silica rich, with low iron content). In places, 2. View of the 'plateau' from the col below Peak (see Pictures 4 and 5) bands of light or almost 5040. (Photo by Maija Finvers) white rocks cross-cut the other rocks. These are dikes created by molten rock squeezed into vertical cracks in the pre-existing rocks at some point in geological history. In the ‘plateau’ area, these dikes have subsequently been fractured or faulted. The dark grey lenses of rock are limestone which may contain a few fossilized coral fragments and gastropods (snail shells). The surfaces of some of the limestone lenses show dissolution by water creating the ridges and furrows seen in Picture 5.

4. Image below: note the cross- cutting intrusive (almost white) dikes (highlighted by the white arrows) and 3. Basaltic (brownish colour) and rhyolitic (light colour) volcanic abundance of fractures and faulting. flows with lenses of dark grey limestone. (Photo by Maija Finvers) (Photo by Maija Finvers)

58 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Other interesting rocks and minerals are shown in Picture 6 and Picture 7.

Participants: Catrin Brown (organizer), Barb Baker, Jenny Berg, Laura Darling, Adrian Dolling, Maija Finvers, Purnima Govindarajulu, Mike Hubbard, Colleen Kasting, Suzanne Morphet, Anja Pa, and Erich Schellhammer.

5. These dikes cross-cut the limestone and adjacent rock and possibly each other. The narrow dike was subsequently fractured and offset. Note that the surface of the limestone has been dissolved producing the peaks and valleys on its surface. (Photo by Maija Finvers)

______

Myra Creek Watershed Traverse

Mike Knippel 30 August – 3 September, 2019 ______

The goal was a Myra Creek watershed traverse with a Thelwood, and maybe Bancroft, climb 6. A breccia (fragments of one rock encased in in the middle. We didn’t end up summiting, another and solifified. (Photo by Maija Fiinvers) although we achieved the traverse via the backup route, but needed to change our plan three times.

We met at Ralph River campsite for a quick sleep after work Thursday of the Labour Day weekend so we could hit the trail first thing Friday without a three a.m. drive up. Traipsing up the familiar cat track to the dam, two of us scrambled around the north side of the lake through the grotty downfall, and I took the rest of us back down the track a bit and whacked up the side of the hill to gain the ridge, meeting the others on a rock overlooking Tennant Lake. Gary and I made a mental note 7. A geode containing quartz crystals and olive green crystals, possibly epidote. (Photo by Maija Finvers) to try to gain the ridge from the creek at the cat track halfway point someday – it seems doable ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 59 The only time clean and dry. L to R: Dan Riis, Gary Lahnsteiner, Mike Knippel, Laura King, Warren King, Pat Morris, Wendy Langelo. (Photo by Dan Riis) and easier, from the map. After a snack we exposure – there’s always a decent way. Phillip made for the bushy gully up into the sub alpine, Stone’s book gives good advice; stay left when had a fight with some wasps, and made the sub confronted with obstacles. The going is slow, but alpine. (The gully goes best if you stay about 20 this is because of picture taking, blueberries. And m above the creek on its north side.) stopping to savour the little scenes. The views, obstructed by smoke during my last trip here in Now in the granite wonderland above Tennant, 2017, and by rain this time, are amazing, not that it is fairly simple hiking but you do have to find we saw many of the surrounding mountains. But the right ways through the various water and I could feel them. We found a nice little tarn just rock obstacles, but there is little need for any

Rock slide at the start of the bushy gully. (Photo by A granite and tarn wonderland. (Photo by Mike Laura King) Knippel) 60 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 above McNish Lake and settled in for the night. climbing Bancroft on the way out to Phillips In this area you don’t have to worry too much Ridge, but abandoned that idea too. about camp sites, you can pretty much stop anywhere and you are near water. Intent the next day was to gain Bancroft Pass and then follow the 1300 m contour around We woke up to more light rain and headed off for to Bancroft’s north flank, followed by some Crystal Pass. We achieved the first big unnamed bushwhacking and route-finding past the Harvey tarn and noted that the gully snow, which was Lakes and then up to Phillips Ridge, with text 3-4 m deep two years previous, was now gone. descriptions from Phillip Stone’s book and Hiking We got to the next big tarn, which was as far as Trails III to guide us, although I did have GPS we got in 2017, went down to its outflow into the tracks from two sources to get from Crystal Pass Thelwood valley, and charted our way up the to Bancroft Pass. These tracks, rather than monster granite blob between us and Crystal dropping down to the valley and then climbing the Pass. Pat went up and scoped out a route, and outflow creek up to the meadows under Bancroft said it was easy, but that’s Pat. We took the Pass, both showed a way that involved climbing route, and it is doable for hikers, but exposed in Thelwood’s flank a bit, and then side sloping it one spot. Going straight up clutching heather, through some trees to a granite outcropping, from we stepped sideways to the left through some which we would then weave our way down to trees to find a gully, and then pulled ourselves the meadows and up to the pass. After crossing up the gully, which had some good holds. The the creek, where Warren had a spill and made only dicey part was an exposed little walk leading my sailor’s ears blush with some choice words, to the bushes, which had a couple spots where we headed uphill. The trees were much thicker there was little to hold on to. Being hikers, and than expected, and very grotty, and there were not climbers, these things concern us. Plus we’re spots where a fall could result in some steep old, and falling hurts. tumbling. We got turned around a number of times, seduced into routes that looked good but We got up onto the blob, and the imbibers didn’t go. Not everybody enjoyed this, but they broke out some Fireball. We hiked up over the did enjoy it when we were done. It took us 2.5 impressive blob, about 400 m up and down a few hours to make the 500 m to the outcropping, and times. It takes a while, and that is mostly due to we stopped for a rest and a discussion. all the cool things to look at – granite, intrusions, snow caves, etc. Plus you have to weave your We had to reassess the trip plan here, and ended way safely through obstacles but it all works with up making our second adjustment. We were half patience. Arriving at Crystal Pass around 5 p.m., way through the trip, time and distance-wise, but we scouted the small tarn at the top of the pass we knew the going would likely be slower for the and although we could make it work, it wasn’t next 24 hours and some in our party needed to the best for our six tents, so we headed north for stick to the five-day trip plan. We considered our 20 minutes into the delightful meadow where the route information, which described the Harvey pass water tumbles over waterfalls and makes Lakes area bushwhacks in unfavourable terms, its way out of the valley. The scenery here is but didn’t say a word about the whack we had stunning, even in the rain, and there is lots of flat just completed. Although we assessed it likely granite to set up tents and avoid camping on the that we probably went the wrong way, that we heather and grassy bits. could have dropped farther down the valley and then gone up what probably would have been a We made our first plan change at this point. The creek and gully system into the meadows under rock was slippery after two days of rain, and Bancroft Pass, we didn’t know this to be the although a fairly steep but simple scramble, it case. So we had to assume the Harvey Lake didn’t make sense to tempt fate and climb wet area whacking was tougher than what we had rock with lightning forecasted. So we dropped just done, and this would mean it would likely that idea and made plans to return someday take us six days to complete our original plan. So to finally knock it off. We had also considered we made the call at this point to exit via the ridge ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 61 between the two Myra Creek forks to the Upper Myra Falls, which we knew based on books and first-hand information went relatively well, with some whacking required, although water was a concern. This had the added bonus of giving us some breathing room, and we descended into the great meadows under Bancroft Pass and set up camp mid- afternoon for some deserved rest, the first two days having been nine- hour days on our feet, and there having been some minor discomfort and concern and stress during this day’s whack (in fact, Pat had a fall during the whack, and although we didn’t know it at the time, had fractured five ribs. He’s one tough Glorious when the sun came up. (Photo by Mike 69-year old!) Knippel) we got down there. Bear scat was plentiful. This meadow has great little ribbony creeks Knowing we were changing the exit plan, we running through it and there is tons of room for notified our friend Sean, who had our trip plan tents. We had seen deer from the outcropping at home, and contacted friend Jeremy to get a down here, but they had skedaddled by the time bit more first-hand info on the ridge. (All hail the Garmin InReach email feature!) Jeremy told us not to do it, that he hated it, and to go the other way, which he hadn’t travelled before. So we ignored that advice and stuck with the backup plan, which turned out to be the right call.

I think Jeremy’s trip down the ridge had gotten unnecessarily tough because he had dropped to the creek too early, and had gotten caught up in devil’s club and downfall whacking along the creek for a long time. Although we didn’t have tracks, we were pretty confident that if we just stuck to the ridge, or favoured its north side on the way down, we would be fine.

The next morning we got up and did some light whacking up to the Pass, and turned east to head out the ridge. Advice had been that it would take about eight hours to exit the ridge from this spot, but I knew Jeremy was faster than us, and given that water was scarce, and that we had two days to get out, and that bushwhacking out via headlamp with suspect water availability was a silly idea, we decided to find a little pond that Looking back at Crystal Pass. (Photo by Mike the map showed further down the ridge, about Knippel)

62 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 100 m below the ridge crest, and park there for So three trip changes – all the right calls – the night. After some heavy bushwhacking down meant we didn’t climb Thelwood (again) but (we found an easier way out), we found the pond, had accomplished the traverse, and had seen a great little spot with bear prints and duckies some pretty darn fine countryside. We didn’t floating around, and set up. Plus, the sun burst see a soul from parking lot to parking lot, which out for the first time in the trip, and we had one of is pretty awesome, especially considering it those glorious alpine 20 degree sunny days. was a long weekend. Of course, this is why we save back country trips for long weekends – the It was the right call, as it took us 10 hours the hordes are going elsewhere and fighting over tent next day to whack out the ridge, and other than a pads and caches. The painful memories of the few super muddy holes, there was no water until whack would soon wane, and Gary and I started we got to the creek. This ridge goes well, you planning our next trip up here (still have to climb just stay to the crest and find your way around that mountain!), which we will probably do in the challenges, with very occasional bootprints and other direction, in via Phillips Ridge and out via old flags to help. The ridge splits for a bit about Tennant Lake. halfway down, and taking the gully between them is a great way down, although we had to veer to The area is wonderful, especially the granite and the right to make sure we didn’t get sucked into tarn paradise between Tennant Lake and the going all the way down to the creek too early. giant granite blob. But it does take some work From here you stay on the crest or its north side, and navigational skill to get up here – it’s not a and there’s even occasionally some boot tracks place for the unprepared. The third time will be and flags (thanks CDMC!), but not too often. We the charm for us, I am sure! got down to the creek, remarked it was flowing in the wrong direction (wrong fork), and did some Participants: Mike Knippel (leader), Wendy super grotty whacking to make our way to the Langelo, Pat Morris, Warren King, Laura King, upper fork and crossing. We can’t seem to cross Dan Riis, Gary Lahnsteiner. creeks without someone falling in, and this time it ______was Dan, but as a retired sailor, he knew all the right words to use. From here we whacked up, Mt. Septimus: An Unexpected Sixth with some trail, to the Upper Falls trail, and then Island Qualifier out to the road and parking lot. It also rained a bunch this day, so everything that had gotten dry the day before, got wet again. Barry Hansen September 1-3, 2019

______

After summiting Mt. Harmston in 2018 while doing the Comox Range traverse, I decided to try completing as many Island Qualifiers as I could in 2019. It went better than expected as weather windows opened at just the right moments, allowing me to complete another five IQs between June and September (Nine Peaks, Victoria Peak, Golden Hinde, Mt. Septimus, and Warden Peak – in that order).

But summiting Septimus was unexpected after a failed attempt during a June trip with two friends Heading down the Myra Creek Ridge. (Photo by Mike to summit Big Interior, Nine Peaks, and Septimus Knippel) consecutively: poor weather combined with a ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 63 gear mishap after successfully summiting the first two caused us to abandon Septimus. Since we had planned to climb via the X-Gully but weren’t able to get back on it while the snow conditions were still good, I postponed it for a spring 2020 attempt.

But sometimes the unexpected and unplanned happens — sometimes for the better and sometimes the worse. In this instance, it was for the better. Fast forward a couple of months to a few days before the August long weekend. The weather forecast was looking good and I was hankering for a summit adventure but wasn’t expecting to find anyone available, and I’m not prone to solo trips. So, I messaged one of my regular summit buddies, Quentin, on the off chance he was available. It turns out he was. My specific request was for Tom Taylor, which I hadn’t climbed yet, but he replied, “How about Septimus?” I was like, “Uh… why didn’t I think about that?!?” After all, the X-Gully isn’t the only route up Septimus. I did some research and we decided to attempt route 2/2V on the west face, leaving late Sunday afternoon since we both work on Sundays. Blueberries and Septimus: a perfect pre-summit But then something else unplanned and alpine day. (Photo by Barry Hansen) unexpected happened. This time the bad kind. I got a call early Saturday morning that my dad a little before Baby Bedwell that had been used had passed away in Penticton. I had just been as a staging area for trail work and so decided to there the week before visiting my parents and pitch the tent there in the rapidly fading light. We other family. My dad’s health had been very poor awoke Monday to a gorgeous morning and after for many years and so we knew this day was an uneventful bear incident close to our camp, we coming — but the actual moment is still a shock. enjoyed a leisurely hike to Cream Lake, arriving Lots of calls were made and correspondence late morning to set up camp and enjoy a beautiful sent to inform various relatives and friends of late summer day swimming, picking blueberries, the news. But then there was nothing left to napping, eating, drinking tea, wandering around, do for the time being, and I didn’t feel like just soaking in the sun, and absorbing all the sitting around. I wanted to go climb a mountain. surrounding awesomeness. The day concluded I consulted with my siblings and wife and they with a beautiful display of alpenglow on Septimus all encouraged me to continue with my plans for and brilliant Milky Way nighttime sky. Septimus. We hit the trail at 6:00 a.m. Tuesday morning to Quentin and I left Nanaimo late Sunday good skies and were quickly on the Septimus afternoon, arriving at the Bedwell Lake trailhead glacier. We had decided not to bring axes or with an hour of light remaining in the day. We hit crampons based on beta from someone who the trail and fast-paced it, intending to camp at had been on it the week before us. However, Baby Bedwell that night. We met some hikers we regretted not having crampons because the on their way out, who informed us that Bedwell upper half of the glacier was bare ice and frozen was closed due to a problem bear and that Baby snow, which forced us to work our way up the Bedwell was overflowing. We found a rock bluff rock bands on the right instead. After crossing

64 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 over the west shoulder and navigating the steep talus slope beyond it, we arrived at the base of route 2/2V. We noticed a lot of rope debris hanging off the infamous ‘Standard Route’ to the left. I’m glad I’d heard enough about its infamy not to attempt it. We quickly climbed 2/2V exactly as described in Island Alpine Select—pretty much sustained low 5th class in stages. We were both comfortable enough not to set up any pro on the ascent.

We arrived at the summit around 10:30 a.m. and hung out for a while taking photos, eating lunch, and signing the register. The sky changed quickly during this brief time from a mix of sun and cloud to rapidly building cloud.

Rappelling off Septimus in the rain and thunder. (Photo by Barry Hansen) came the thunderous boom, which I first thought was a massive rockfall but we quickly realized was, indeed, thunder. And then, of course, heavy Customary summit selfie with Mt. Rosseau in rain. We donned our rain jackets and continued background. (Photo by Barry Hansen) descending as quickly and safely as possible while the thunder and rain continued. By the time We quickly packed up and started heading down. our feet landed back on the talus slope, the rain In the few minutes it took us to get to the notch stopped. But the thunder continued until we were between Septimus and Rosseau, the west face back down the glacier. And by the time we got to was already shrouded in thick cloud. We had Cream Lake, Septimus was looking all happy and already planned to descend the same route but pretty again. We packed up and hiked out with the weather solidified that plan. We were grateful intermittent cloud and sunshine, arriving at the for rap stations left by others (although the lower Bedwell trailhead at dusk. couple were a bit sketchy), but we wished we had a 70 m rope, instead of the 50 m we’d brought It was another great adventure in Strathcona along. We rapped the first two sections with Park. But the mountains reminded me once again a little easy down-climbing in between. While setting up our third rap station, Quentin suddenly that although we do our best to mitigate the risks, pushed me against the gully wall as a 30 cm ultimately, we’re not in control. However, for me, diameter rock flew past, narrowly missing us and the rewards far outweigh the risks. Living, really ricocheting off the wall 4 feet past us. I didn’t living, is risky business. hear it coming but he did and saw it. That got the adrenaline flowing! We waited a moment looking Participants: Barry Hansen and Quentin Thomas and listening for more rockfall. Nothing. Then

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 65 ______

Call of the wild: Remote summits in the Pierce Range – Megin Peak and Talbot Peak

Lindsay Elms September 1 – 5, 2019 ______

For three years in a row — always in September — Rod, Val and myself would visit remote locations on the southwest edge of Strathcona Megin Peak. (Photo by LIndsay Elms) Park. We would go in for up to a week and climb for me to be in. The less information the more all the immediate peaks in the area. It started with intriguing the place becomes. Once around the the Splendor/Hygro/Scissors area (2013), then base of the spur leading up to the north summit the Scimitar/ Mitla/Sabretooth area (see IBWA of Megin Peak we angled to the saddle between 2014 p. 36-37) and then the Lone Wolf area (see the two summits. To the west of the ridge lies IBWA 2015 p. 29-31). Bad weather in 2016 and the 27,390-hectare Megin-Talbot addition to then an unforeseen situation, which meant all Strathcona Provincial Park which contains the three of us were unable to get into the area in largest undisturbed watershed on Vancouver 2017 or 2018. This year we hoped to get back to Island. Located in the northeast portion of the area as there was still one cluster of peaks , the Megin-Talbot addition was that were beckoning us along the Pierce Range identified for protection in the 1995 Clayoquot south of Jacklah Mountain (see IBWA 2012 p. Sound Land-Use Decision. The addition is rarely 45-48). The weather looked iffy for the end of exploited by people except when floatplanes August but gradually showed improvement into drop-off fisherpersons and canoeists on Megin September. We made plans for the first week of Lake. The canoeists often paddle down the September. Megin River into Clayoquot Sound and back to Tofino. September 2

From our camp in a basin just off the saddle at the head of Jacklah Creek we headed south up the scree bowls towards our first objective – Megin Peak. There were no records of anyone climbing this peak or visiting the area; however, cavers had visited the karst formations around the saddle at the head of Jacklah Creek for many summers and scrambled over a karst summit three kilometres north of Megin Peak. Trevor (Mad Mapper) Moelaert, President of the BC Speleological Federation, was able to send me photos of the area we intended to climb, but other than that we were on our own. The lack of information on a remote climbing area is not an unusual situation Summit Megan Peak. (Photo by Lindsay Elms)

66 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Talbot Ridge. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) Talbot Peak summit. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) From the ridge, the route to the summit of Megin trees will only grow where the route is safe, Peak (1460 m) looked a little complicated in safe from rockfall and avalanches. These trees places but overall relatively straight-forward; weren’t juveniles but had many years of sap however, there were a few low fifth-class moves flowing up and down their xylem and phloem. The in a couple of places. undergrowth beneath these trees was open and really pleasant after some of the bush we had We spent an hour on the summit then began the been negotiating along the ridge. Once through traverse across to the slightly lower north peak the trees we veered right up a short rock wall (1420 m). We continued north along the ridge and then we scrambled under another wall to over more bumps and knobs to the big gully a small saddle between the two summits. We which would take us down to the saddle above had squeaked through! The higher summit of camp. To the north we could see tomorrow’s Talbot Peak (1380 m) was now just ten minutes objective - Talbot Peak and the ridge leading to further north. After spending a few minutes on it. Although the final summit was still shrouded in top, we decided we couldn’t spend too much cloud the ridge looked easier than today’s ridge. time lingering so we traversed back across to the slightly lower south peak (1360 m). September 3 We used the GPS to ensure we found the exact From camp we re-ascended to the saddle we had route down (no flagging tape for us) and we all dropped down from to camp yesterday afternoon. commented that we had found the perfect line for There appeared to be four to five minor summits climbing the peak. It really was a fun little climb we had to traverse to reach our destination and a nice surprise. It just proves never to judge so it looked like it would be a longer day than a climb from the distance. You have to literally yesterday. On the second bump we belayed one pitch and then not far down the other side we had to rappel a short section. The rest of the route was easy but slow as we zig-zagged between the low-lying stands of krumholtz. The whole time the final summit of Talbot Peak never revealed itself but we could tell that the final climb was going to be tricky. The rock looked broken and there didn’t appear to be any obvious line. I am always the optimist. I kept saying let’s just continue getting closer as something will present itself. This is what we did and low and behold a route miraculously appeared. From the end of the ridge a narrow line of trees only a few feet wide angled up. I’ve always said that mature Talbot Peak. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 67 our spirits. Go or no go? I checked the GPS and told the guys that we were just four km as the crow flies from the intended parking spot, which would only be one extra hour of walking on an easy logging road. I did not mention the zigzags and the 500 m elevation gain that was also needed to get there. By this point in the journey, I would say anything to reach my goal. Life is running out.

This story began one glorious early winter morning in 1992. Six of us slogged through deep snow to reach the elbow ramp of Mount Albert Karst Jacklah Mtn. (Photo by Lindsay Elms) Edward, my first VI 6000’er. I was at the back rub your nose on it. The route back to camp was following the right line of footprints. In front of tedious but the nice thing was we finally got to me, a dark zigzag line silently appeared in the see the summit of Talbot Peak from the ridge. snow next to the footprints and snaked towards Back in camp that evening we opened the wine me, stopping about 20 m ahead. Then suddenly we had carried in and toasted the two summits several loads of snow the size of a bus sank we had climbed over the last two days. Bliss! and disappeared. It was accompanied by a supersonic BOOM and a shimmering cloud of September 4 snow. A cornice had just broken off. I leaped to the left and after realizing what had happened, We tried to climb the limestone peak three kilometres to the north of Megin Peak but we I laughed nervously. I would have been in that found the karst formations time consuming as spot in another 30 seconds! I learned from this there were unexpected sinkholes everywhere and close call and added it to my list of do’s and we had to find routes around them. We ultimately don’ts. We reached the top and the view from turned around and went back to camp but we Albert Edward’s summit was spectacular. Here knew we would be back as there were several we chatted about how we would get to the other peaks to the east that piqued our interest. As I distant peaks. I set my sight on the Golden have always said there is no shortage of peaks to Hinde, the highest mountain on Vancouver climb on Vancouver Island. Island. My first attempt in 1993 during the Thanksgiving weekend was interrupted by a Participants: Rod Szasz, Val Wootton and snow storm. My second attempt the following Lindsay Elms. August was defeated by torrential downpours. ______My third try in 1996 with Jamie Duncan was successful! However, after six days on the snow Project VI 6000’ers with the intense June sun blazing, my face felt like it was on fire. I had not used sun-block as Ken Wong I believed that being oriental, I was naturally 1992 to August 4, 2019 protected. ______The next peak was Elkhorn, the second VI Stop! Stop! A monstrous bulldozer appeared in highest mountain. Jamie and I climbed it as a day the early morning mist. It sat at an angle across trip in 1997 on our third try. The way down wasn’t the narrow logging road, blocking the way to the best as I missed a turn. As well, my headlamp Sutton Peak, my last ‘over 6000-foot’ Vancouver ran out of juice while I was crashing through Island mountain (VI 6000’ers). We were tired devil’s club so I had my first unplanned solo bivy. from the previous day’s 12.5 hours climb up It was still the dark age, a time before GPS and Mount Schoen. This unwelcome surprise zapped LED headlamps. Later Gerhardt Lepp introduced me to the ACCVI after inviting me to complete 68 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Crown Mountain in 2015. The pace quickened after my retirement in 2016 as I could venture into the hills any day of the week! Thirteen peaks were summited in 2017 including Golden Hinde NW with Tak Ogasawara to finish his last VI 6000’er. Five more were bagged in 2018. I felt the toll on my spirit that was inflicted by the multiple high traverses off the east side of Buttle Lake: the 1000 m ascents just to get to the alpine, the horrendous bushwhacks, the smoky air from forest fires and the relentless assaults by blood sucking insects. On Golden Hinde summit in 1996. (Photo by Jamie Duncan) It was a hard, tough chore. What his last two Island Qualifiers (IQ), Septimus and lured me back for more torture was Victoria Peak. Now Jamie and I were on the IQ the stunning alpine flora, the ice worms on the quest. On Friday the 13th, 2007, we stood on top ever diminishing glaciers, the reflection of snowy of Mount Colonel Foster, which was the last IQ peaks on pristine tarns, the pinks and purples for George Butcher and myself. It was an epic of sunrises and sunsets, the immense milky trip. We spent four nights on the summit block. way, the trails of shooting stars, the full moon After being away for five days, we were back at rising from behind peaks and even the eerie but the Elk River trail head and found a Gold River beautiful smoky yellow sky. The true wildness of RCMP note on the windshield saying they were the place touched me. looking for us. Our loved ones in Victoria were Year 2019. It’s the year to finish up the project worried as we were two days overdue so they VI 6000’ers before I passed 60. David Suttill, called the police! Jamie would finish his last IQ, Roxanne Stedman and I climbed Elkhorn South Warden Peak, in 2008. in June. In July, after an ACCVI club trip to Mount Now I needed a new project. Philip Stone’s Island Thelwood and Mount Myra, David kindly guided Alpine guide had a list of 42 VI peaks over 6000 me up the impossible vertical bushes to the feet. Forty-two was way too many, so I opted summit of Matchlee. It was his second ascent of for completing the remaining 13 peaks that are the peak so he knew the way. On our return trip, above 2000 m. From the summit of Colonel we had just got off the tricky rock face at the base Foster, we could see across the Elk River Valley before it started to rain. We had escaped another to Rambler Peak. It became the first summit of dangerously close call! our new project. A while later, I came across Tak Ogasawara, Graham Smith and Garrett Lindsay Elms’ website that had an expanded White joined me for my last two peaks. On 6000’er list of 53 VI peaks. It contained a few August 3rd, we climbed Schoen Peak via its 800 more peaks that were over 2000 m. In 2014, m high nearly vertical scree slope. On the return George and I along with David Suttill, slogged we chose to go down a different gully to avoid the up the Elk River Trail yet again to climb Rambler nastiest top half of the scree before we contoured Junior. We crossed the Elk River Pass to bag the to the scree slope. The next morning, we drove Behinde and the Comb peaks which finished our south to Sutton Peak and encountered that 2000 m project. As one project was completed, aforementioned bulldozer blocking the road. That another one arose. I said to George “let’s bag hiccup added an extra 13 km to the climb! In all, it the remaining VI 6000’ers!” This meant that I took us 14 hrs to climb Sutton, followed by a hike had 24 more peaks left to do. We started with back to the trucks in the dark. ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 69 On Sutton Peak summit in 2019, the end of the quest. (Photo by Graham Smith) The Project was over. I became the fourth person to receive the Charles Turner Vancouver Island 6000’ers Award. A tremendous burden is off my shoulders. I’ve told my friends that I don’t ever need to go north of the Sooke Hills again! But then I remember those gorgeous peaks with such fantastic names that I saw from the shoulder of Mount Burman: Splendour, Scimitar, and the Scissors. Hmmmm, I may be back for more!

George Butcher would complete his VI 6000’ers after climbing Golden Hinde NW at the end of August.

VI 6000’ers climbed in chronological order Year: peak, (the order of peaks and *repeated peaks climbed in one trip).

1992: Mount Albert Edward. 1996: The Golden Hinde. 1997: Elkhorn Mountain. 1998: Mount Septimus, Victoria Peak. 1999: King’s Peak. 2001: (Comox Glacier, Mount Harmston) (Big Interior Mountain, Nine Peaks), Mount Frink. 2003: (Rugged Mountain, Warden Peak). 2005: Oh my precious! The Red Pillar. 2006: (*The Red Pillar, Argus Mountain). 2007: Mount Colonel Foster (my last 2015: Crown Mountain. 2016: (*Mount Albert Island Qualifier). Edward, Mount Regan). 2017: Jutland Mountain, (Mount Adrian, Alexandra Peak), (Shepherds 2008: Rambler Peak. 2009: (Mount McBride, Ridge, Shepherds Horn), Golden Hinde NW, Morrison Spire). 2010: Mount Filberg. 2011: (*Mount Frink, Mount George V, Peak 1931, (Mount Cobb, Mount Haig Brown). 2013: (Iceberg Peak 1909, Siokum Mountain), (Syd Watts Peak, Peak, Mount Celeste). 2014: (Slocomb Peak, Sid Williams Peak, Augerpoint Mountain). 2018: El Piveto Mountain, Rambler Junior), (*Rambler (*Jutland Mountain, , *Mount Junior, The Behinde, The Comb (my last over Adrian), (The Misthorns, Mount Rosseau, 2000 m peak). Margaret Peak, *Shepherds Horn, Tzela Mountain). 2019; (Elkhorn South, *Slocomb 70 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Peak), Matchlee Mountain, (Mount Schoen, complete the journey up and back. Sutton Peak (my last VI 6000’er). 2. Elkhorn Mountain. A year later Ernie Klassen Participants: Ken Wong and friends and I set off to climb Elkhorn Mtn. We left late in the afternoon intending to find a flagged route ______across the Elk River that would take us between A Journey to the Island Qualifiers King’s Peak and Elkhorn. We somehow missed the crossing and continued up the Elk River trail. Laurence Philippsen By the time we realized that we had missed our 1982-2019 crossing it was getting time to set up camp. We ______were about 6 km up the trail at this point. In the morning we decided the ERT wouldn’t get us any My love of the mountains began as a fourteen- further toward the Elkhorn so the decision was year old in 1969. My uncle facilitated two hikes made to go straight up through the forest until we in the summer of that year. The first one involved were out of the trees and could see something. a long trek through the forest to reach Mt We reached snow shortly after getting into the Arrowsmith and the second was a hike up the open and, not liking the look of the terrain above Cruikshank Canyon to Mt Albert Edward. It was us, we circled the peak from the west until we the long sweeping ridge to the peak of Albert reached the north ridge. After a bit of a scramble Edward that got me completely hooked on this we reached the peak, enjoyed the amazing view new activity. I just loved being above the trees of Landslide lake and Colonel Foster and then with a view in every direction! Over the next returned to our vehicle by the same route we took dozen years, I climbed about ten different peaks up. in Strathcona Park and repeated some of them a few times. At this point I hadn’t heard of the 3. Warden Peak. It wasn’t until 1990 that Ernie Island Qualifiers, which are a list of nine island Klassen, Randy Brouwer and I climbed Warden peaks chosen by the ACC Vancouver Island Peak. We drove up the White River main and section as Major Island Peaks. crossed the river on a spur that took us to about 350 m of elevation, hiked a bit of logging slash 1.Victoria Peak. It was in 1982 with two of my and then straight up through the forest following cousins, Ernie and Walter Klassen, that I set off a ridge on the north side of the mountain. We to climb Victoria Peak. The only beta we had were able to follow the ridge right to the summit for route-finding was to drive up the White River tower. By this time our families had insisted that logging road and perhaps one other spur off the we take a course in lead climbing and buy some White River mainline and then start hiking along gear to help decrease the risk factor in our hiking. the west side of a creek that flowed into the I remember we were a little disappointed that we White River from the south. We were to follow hadn’t needed our rope on the ascent, so we set the creek upstream until we crossed the fourth up an anchor and rappelled off the summit. My creek running into the stream we were following. journal noted that the hike took 11 hours and was This was where we were to go up until we got a grueling day. into the alpine. From this point we had no other information. The only gear we had were work 4. Golden Hinde. Quite a few years went by boots, jeans, flannel shirts, a hat and a backpack. before I climbed another Island Qualifier. During No rope or ice axe either. In those days the this time, I summited another two dozen peaks on glacier on the south of the peak went a long way the island, but none happened to be an IQ. My down so when we got out of the gully it was a son, Aaron, and I set out in the summer of 2009 matter of going up the glacier until we hit the two for the Golden Hinde. 5th class steps from the snow to the upper part of the mountain. After that it was a scramble to the Day one took us to the long ridge beside Burman peak. Our altimeter told us we had gained 6100 lake. The next morning, we packed our gear to ft elevation from our vehicle, which we could the climber’s tarn below the Golden Hinde, set see parked far below us. It was a full 11 hours to up camp, and waited out some showers with a ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 71 Nine Peaks is one of those special places on the Island where you feel completely surrounded by peaks! After a quick side-trip to climb Marjores Load we packed up camp and spent the night at the Bedwell Lake camping area and returned home the next morning.

Going home from Nine Peaks. (Photo by Aaron Haazen) View to the Golden Hinde. (Photo by Laurence Philippsen) 6. Mt Septimus. In the middle of August, 2012, I nap. Around noon the weather started to clear returned to the Bedwell Trail and hiked close to so we made a quick side-trip to the Behinde and Cream Lake with friends and set up camp. The returned to camp. The third morning rewarded next morning, I said goodbye to my companions us with absolutely clear skies, so we headed for and set off on my own to climb Mt Rosseau. I the peak and summited at 10 o’clock. The views went up a gully that took me up to a col where were spectacular with morning fog slowly burning I had the choice of climbing Mt Septimus or Mt off in the valleys far below. We reluctantly left the Rosseau. I chose Mt Rosseau and arrived at peak and made our way to a camping spot on the the peak around noon. I intended to climb Mt ridge below Mt Burman where the trail makes its Septimus on my way back, but it started to rain way down to Schjelderup Lake. The next day was lightly, and the rocks became a bit slippery, so a matter of a long slog with many stops to enjoy I returned to camp. The next morning, I could the view of the Golden Hinde from increasingly see the mountains again, so I returned to Cream farther distances away. Lake and headed for the X-gully. The climb soon turned into a race against fog rolling in 5. Nine Peaks. The next year, in late July, my son from the valley below Cream Lake. Since I was Aaron, his friend Aaron Haazen and myself set alone, and nobody was below me I wasn’t too out up the Bedwell trail. Once at Bedwell Lake concerned about dislodging rocks and made we turned left and headed toward Little Jim Lake. quick work of the gully. Crossing the glacier was Then we followed flagging toward Big Interior a beautiful walk and then the ridge to the top mountain. We hit snow as we descended into was icing on the cake. Soon I was surrounded by the cirque below Big Interior and then it was just peaks protruding from the fog-filled valleys in all a matter of a long trek up the snowfield to the directions. It was time to retrace footprints on the summit. We set up camp just below the west snow through thickening fog and return to camp side of the summit where there were some level and then the trailhead. spots in the snow. We left early the next morning. Angling across slopes of snow we went until we 7. Rugged Mountain. In early June of 2015, my were below the summit and made a long trek up companion and I headed up N-20, a spur off the to the peak. Other than a handful of clouds to Nomash Main near Zeballos. It was nice to have the north we had clear views in every direction. the old road clear of brush thanks to a group of

72 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 volunteers organized by Lindsay Elms the year make sure we would be compatible for Colonel before. We got to the Nathan col, roped up to Foster. Then a week or so later we headed up the cross the glacier, and headed to the end of the Elk River trail and spent the night on the south E ridge to climb what Island Alpine calls the E alt col of Foster. route. At this point my partner said he was too tired to go on and stayed to rest for the return to In a twelve-hour stretch we scrambled the SE our vehicle later in the afternoon. I carried on peak and the SW peak with rappels down each alone and after some exhilarating travel and a lot one, crossed the upper glacier and made our way of extra care to avoid any missteps I got to the to the main summit. After enjoying the view, we peak. The views in each direction were amazing, carried on down to the next col and headed up especially looking along the other peaks of the to the NE peak. Since there was melting snow Haihte Range. By the time we got back down to here, we spent the night on a very small flat our truck we were glad to take our boots off and spot enjoying a relaxed evening meal with lots head home. of water! The next day we rappelled to the next col, climbed the NW peak and headed to the 8. Colonel Foster. This mountain was not ever evacuation gully. Many rappels later we were at a real priority for me as I had been up the the bottom and were very surprised to find most southeast peak in 1988 and had thought the of the snow that quite often causes difficulties rest of the way to the main peak was maybe too had melted and we just walked off to the north hard to do. Then one day many years later in shoulder of the mountain. Now it was just a June of 2015, Andreas Hinkkala made a post on matter of a bushwhack down to Foster Lake, Facebook looking for a partner to do a traverse walking around Landslide Lake and the tedious of all the peaks on Colonel Foster. We went out walk on the Elk River Trail. The last three hours for a day together and climbed Mt Arrowsmith to by headlamp was something I don’t want to ever do again. Getting to the vehicle around 1 a.m. was a huge relief to say the least.

9. Mount Harmston. If I remember correctly, I found out about the Island Qualifiers around 2015 so I never really prioritized my objectives around that list. Suddenly I found myself very close to achieving this goal without really having felt any pressure to accomplish it. I would have finished the list the next year except for a mishap that sidelined my mountaineering aspirations for about a year. I ended up with screws and rods along my spine holding things together until a spinal fusion healed up. For the next couple of years, I worked through small objectives that could be done in a day. I did one easy overnight trip and decided I could manage Mt. Harmston too. As many of you know, the hardest part about access to Mt. Harmston is logging road gates. Hot, dry summers and gate closures kept me out of the area until the summer of 2019. Just before the July long weekend, there was enough rain to reduce fire hazards in the area. I saw a post online about the gate opening and, without time to plan for a partner or to get a canoe, I drove to Oshinow Lake early Saturday morning. I walked around the lake, followed the trail over Peak 1712 Fun on Foster. (Photo by Andreas Hinkkala) and camped on the northwest shoulder of the ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 73 View back from the last IQ. (Photo by Laurence Philippsen)

Red Pillar. The next day was a gloriously sunny ______one and what a great walk over the Cliffe Glacier Bonnington Range Ski Traverse to the col below the peak! Once on top of the mountain it was fun to relax and think about all the previous climbs that had brought me to this Catrin Brown point. I have met a lot of great people to go into 24 - 27 March 2019 the mountains with and look forward to climbing many more mountains in the future. ______

Participants: Laurence Philippsen and friends. It was winter 2019 and the section was on a bit of a learning curve with our new hut, dealing for the first time with bookings and maintenance. ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼ So it was a good time to deal with the Kootenay Mountaineering Club (KMC), who are years’ ahead of us with experience in this game. KMC built three huts in the Bonnington Range, and MAINLAND developed a fourth, the Huckleberry hut from a former miner’s cabin, back in the 1990s. They now jointly manage these facilities with the BC Forest Service, providing the volunteer help ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲ on an annual basis, while the Forest Service supplies the materials. Bookings and payments 74 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 are done online through the KMC website. We As accurately described on the KMC website, the found it to be a great system and the huts well cabins are rustic and very small, which of course maintained – perhaps our new awareness of all also means that they heat up quickly once the that is involved made us extra appreciative of the woodstove gets going. They claim to have space ongoing volunteer effort. Kudos and thanks to for six people – all I can say is it’s a good thing you KMC. our group included a couple, and that we were only five. We enjoyed a long evening working The huts make up one of only a few hut-to- through the heaviest of our food supplies and hut ski traverses in the interior of B.C. The once more failing to beat Martin at Bananagrams. ‘Bonnington traverse’ is a 45 km route traversing the Bonnington Range in a horseshoe between A small dusting of new snow greeted us the next Highways 3 and 6, and can be done in 3 – 4 morning as we headed down the north ridge days comfortably. The Range is part of the of Grassy Mountain to the pass at the head of Selkirk Mountains and runs roughly north-south, Granite Creek. Whoever said “If I had more time, bounded by the Salmo, Kootenay and Columbia I would have taken a short-cut” must have been Rivers. We knew to expect lots of treed terrain, watching us that day, as we added complexity but also long stretches of open ridges and big to the trip. Eventually, we made our way over bowls. And of course we hoped for the fabled the top of Twin Peaks and steeply down to a Kootenay powder. logging road. With more ascents, treed descents and contours we came to the col on the south Well there’s hope, and there’s reality. A recent ridge of Siwash Mountain – the highest summit warming trend had brought an early end to much in the Bonnington Range at 2320 m. From the of the skiing around Nelson, and as we set off col it was a short but ugly ski down to the Steed from the Bombi summit near Castelgar on the Cabin. There are plenty of reports of people west of the traverse, we were relieved there was failing to find the small cabins in the trees, even snow there at all. Powder it was not. The first when very close in high snow conditions. But day’s route into Grassy Cabin was an easy 9 km with our diminished snow pack we had little steady climb up, mostly on an old logging road, difficulty in finding our next base just before night before a short ski down to the cabin at 1900 m. fall. Amazing how a dry roof and roaring fire can quickly transform an atmosphere from damp and dreary to cosy and convivial.

On Day 3 we set out in a northerly trending ascent on the eastern flank of Siwash Mountain, descending to cross the headwaters of Erie Creek in soggy white-out. This was a shorter day’s touring to Copper Hut, another traditional log cabin seemingly built for hobbits and well stocked with firewood. Overnight the weather at last decided to deliver a heavy snowfall - heavy in both senses of the word.

The final day of the traverse is apparently the crux or the highlight (are those two always the same?), as it crosses a high ridge for five Setting off on Day 2 from the Grassy hut. Erich, Keith, Josh and kilometres over a series of peaks Martin. (Photo by Catrin Brown) with imperial sounding names like

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 75 Empire, Colony and Territory. It includes a knife ski touring adventure. Completing the ridges on edge traverse and two sections of bootpacking. the last day would have taken us down to Barrett Now as we all know, conditions are everything. Lake and the Huckleberry Hut before exiting to And our new snow pack and the novelty of blue the east. In good conditions the trip would lend skies presented us with a dilemma – at last we itself to extended stays in any of the huts for had good route-finding and skiing conditions but further exploration. There is no marked route; now heightened avalanche danger. Do we go on navigation skills and GPS coordinates of the huts or take the escape route to the north? A strong are strongly recommended. There is a lot more wind blew up while we were on the first bump of information on the KMC website. the ridge, which did little to bolster confidence, well mine anyway. It was hard to turn around, Participants: Keith Battersby, Catrin Brown, but I am grateful to the team for the careful and Martin Hofmann, Erich Schellhammer, Josh respectful decision making. And at least we were Slatkoff rewarded on our retreat with some fine skiing under Copper Mountain towards Snow Water ______Creek. Keith had cleverly noted the coordinates of a sledder’s cabin and even more cleverly Introduction to Ski Based navigated us directly there. Our Plan B to spend Mountaineering the night and ski out to the Kootenay River the next day unravelled when we learned from a passing sledder that the road was plowed and Natasha Salway un-skiable; yikes that would be a very long walk. April 17-22, 2019 So plan C emerged by which Erich and I left with said sledder, and later (helped by a lovely ______example of ‘the kindness of strangers’) retrieved our vehicles in Nelson. The following day Erich Back in April, a group from the ACC-Vancouver was able to drive Josh’s car to meet the others at Island section participated in a Chilko Basecamp the end of the road. And so ends another fine trip ski mountaineering course in the mountains near with these fun and competent friends. Pemberton. In our group, we had four members of the ACC-VI executive, two more members from The Bonnington traverse is a well-recommended our section, one person from Vancouver and one from Mackenzie, plus our two guides. We flew in on the Wednesday from Blackcomb Helicopters and set up basecamp close to .

Once we had established our home for the next five days, we headed out for a short tour to start practicing winter navigation and route finding. We also took some time to make some observations on the snow pack stability in that particular area. That night we got to enjoy preparing our evening meal and making plans for the next day in the comfort of two dome Hilleberg tents.

The next two days, we unfortunately had poor weather and visibility so The path not taken. Series of ridges on the east side of the traverse. we stayed at camp and worked (Photo by Catrin Brown) on technical skills that could be 76 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 and compass, rescue systems, knots and the various pieces of gear that our guides use on a day to day basis in the backcountry. We did manage to get out of camp for a short half day on Friday. We practiced skiing roped for glacier travel and dealing with switchbacks in that situation. We did a little boot packing in a whiteout and then skiing down while roped up again. It was definitely as challenging and, somewhat hilarious as it sounds, especially for the splitboarders who were forced to descend in “ski mode”.

Our basecamp: note the multiple loose wet point release avalanches On Saturday, April 20th, the day in the background. (Photo by Natasha Salway) dawned beautiful and clear. We practiced in the tents. We went over more winter were able to head out in the morning navigation and traveling in a whiteout, using map for a full day of touring the slopes around Mount Currie. We had a bit of time to discuss cornices and finding safe ways of approaching the edge with the safety of a belay. After that, we had an amazing run all the way down the North Glacier of Mount Currie, and a very technical and challenging ascent back up in complex avalanche terrain. We then did a short boot pack along a ridge to give ourselves a longer descent back to basecamp.

The view of Mount Currie, showing the overhead hazards we needed to be aware of while we were touring back up. (Photo by Natasha Salway)

Sunday, we left camp in the morning, heading for the summit of Mount Currie. The snow was quite a bit harder this day, so we were able to practice more technical touring with our ski crampons. Pretty soon, though, boot packing was needed as Looking back up at the run down the North Glacier the steepness of the slope got more demanding. before we started our ascent back up. (Photo by Natasha Salway) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 77 The view from the col. We took a good rest here before we boot packed up the ridge to our left. (Photo by Natasha Salway) We gained the summit ridge and then it was just We decided to split the group at this point and a short tour all the way up to the summit itself. half of us went back to camp, while the other group took one more run down the North West face of Currie, before heading back to camp. After we returned, we broke down camp and prepared to fly out that evening. The weather was changing again and there was concern that we might not be able to fly on Monday or Tuesday if we stayed longer. We did a bit of practice with snow anchors and padding the edge of a crevasse before the Helicopter arrived.

The following day we all met up near Squamish to go through setting up full rescue systems, and techniques for ascending a rope. Overall this was a very informative course that Chilko Basecamps put together in an absolutely stunning location. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is looking to further advance their technical skills in winter mountaineering.

To learn more about trips that Chilko Basecamps have to offer or get in touch for custom trip ideas, visit their website https://chilko.ca/ Mt Currie summit group: L to R Clarke Gourlay, Martin Hofmann, Colin Mann, Natasha Salway, Josh Participants: Chris Platt, Clarke Gourlay, Martin Slatkoff, and Chris Platt in front. (Photo by Sam Hofmann, Colin Mann, Natasha Salway, Josh McKoy of Chilko Basecamps) Slatkoff.

78 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 ______Given the complexity of the terrain, we decided to hire a professional guide from Yamnuska Mount Athabaska Mountain Adventures, the company that hosted the three-month Mountain Skills Semester Andrew Pape-Salmon that I attended in 2009. Reading the slopes for avalanche and rock-fall hazards in the Rockies June 24, 2019 requires intimate and local knowledge that these guides attain. My mountaineering partner Shawn ______Hedges and I decided to tackle the most complex route – the North Face. The first ascent of this Mountaineering on glaciers is one of my favourite route in August 1970 was by Yvon Chouinard, P. activities due to the duality of their tranquility and Carman and F. Pelenier. power. In fact, I am obsessed with glaciers. They are an integral symbol of nature yet are hostile Weather is everything for success on glaciers environments with little life due to permanent and summiting tall peaks and it was definitely (but melting) ice and natural hazards such as working against us with fresh snow and large crevasses, seracs and rock falls, blizzards and avalanches the week before our trip in late avalanches. Paradoxically, they are the origin June, visible from the webcam on the Banff- of much terrestrial and watershed life, as they Jasper Highway the Thursday beforehand. Our fuel our great rivers and nourish lands, flora and guide, Takeshi Tani, was a genius in devising a fauna. safe route within our available timeframe and suggested the “North Face Bypass” route that For example, the near Jasper is avoided a pile-up of snow along the summit the source of four major river systems of western ridge on the top of the normal north face route Canada: (1) the Fraser (to the Pacific Ocean); that could have catastrophically failed during (2) Columbia (ditto); (3) the Athabasca (to Great our climb, bring rocks and debris with it, along Slave Lake, the Mackenzie River and Arctic with sketchy footing on reaching the ridge. The Ocean), and (4) the North Saskatchewan (to conditions the evening before were clear and Lake Winnipeg, the Nelson River and Hudson’s confidence-inspiring, but on the morning of the Bay). The Icefield is the starting water source climb we had visibility challenges, hence no for many large cities, our “breadbasket” of the mountain landscape photo in my article (but you Canadian prairies, most of our hydro power plants, and in historic times our transportation corridors. Glaciers and their rivers and lakes provide for water recreation, aesthetic beauty, spiritual nourishment, and a “cool” escape when the climate is hot.

My 2019 adventures included glaciers leading up in late June, and then the Easton and Deming Glaciers leading up Mount Baker in late July (see next story).

Mount Athabasca (3,491 m) and its various glaciers are the most visible in the Columbia Icefields from the Jasper- Highway, likely the most viewed glacier in Canada. On the Little . (Photo by Andrew Pape-Salmon) ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 79 can google for thousands of images from the Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre).

We decided to proceed and assess the conditions below the Silverhorn secondary summit before crossing the glacier underneath the main summit. We began walking at 3 a.m. and up the moraine to the south of the road where Brewster’s “Ice Explorer” vehicles move hundreds of people to experience the main glacier every day. On arrival at the decision point, we had enough visibility to confirm the plan and we proceeded to cross the Little Athabasca Glacier to the Bergschrund.

We made rapid progress climbing some steep 45 degree snow and along the ridge to reach a narrow ledge visible in the previous photo with a little snow dusting about one-third of the way up the summit block. Takeshi laid out protection along the ledge with a variety of equipment, but risk levels were low (despite very high consequences) and I didn’t suffer any vertigo

On the ‘Scottish Ice Gulley’ with no fear. (Photo by Takeshi Tani)

On the rock band of summit block. (Photo by Takeshi Tani)

The highlight for me was being back on ice, in this case a “Scottish Ice Gulley” visible in the first photo as a notch, leading all the way to the summit ridge. This mixed climbing was tantalizing and superb!

Seven hours after our start we reached the summit ridge and walked along a 1-2 m wide ridge to the summit, fortunately without much On the 11,453’ summit of Mount Athabasca. (Photo wind. Our guide commented on our fitness and by Andrew Pape-Salmon)

80 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 technical skills that enabled us to summit within the importance of organization and experience the limited weather window. when it comes to the many tasks that have to be accomplished in a short period of time. We walked to the Silverhorn and down the AA Fortunately, things went off more or less without col route in the snow and down the AA glacier a hitch – except for what I will refer to as the biffy witnessing recent evidence of massive slab door incident – to wit we had spectacular views avalanches (likely from the fresh snow the from the top of Biffy Hill but so did everyone else previous week). who approached!

The trip truly pushed my comfort limits, The one major regret I have is that I did not better document my stay there. I left my cell phone something I am able to do with a guide. (aka camera) in Jim’s truck and failed to keep a daily record of events, limiting myself to just two Trip Participants; Andrew Pape-Salmon, Sean entries into the log book and a total of 14 lines of Hedges and Takeshi Tani (Yamnuska Mountain prose covering one ascent (Lindisfarne) and the Adventures guide) other (the last day) a rest day for the old knees. Fortunately, others were more expansive, and ______so I am largely relying on their more detailed accounts in what follows. Meditation Mountain – Summer Camp 2019 Week 1 – A Week without a Peek Day 1 saw the first ascent, and after dinner at that. Ken Wong, Graham Smith, Garrett from the Peaks? White and Martin Hoffman sauntered up nearby Contemplation Pk. in two hours return. Scott Collins Unfortunately, and this was to be the pattern for July 14-21, 2019 much of the week, they were engulfed in cloud at the top and with no views! Now, I am not 100% ______sure I went up this peak (see below) – but in any event, if I did, I cannot recall any views either! Summer camp 2019 was a new experience for me. It was the first time I had asked to be The next day (Monday) we all headed over in the Week 1 camp, and I learned a lot about towards Priory Peak in two groups. The first

Camp 1 group photo. (Photo by Ken Wong)

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 81 group, consisting of Ken, Garrett, Graham and Josh went up the steepest slope they could find above camp to access the ridge west of camp and made their way – eventually – to the pass between Bella Vista Ridge and Priory Peak via a boulder-filled bench below the ridge. The other, larger, group took a somewhat less steep slope and tried to end run the ridge in question to the saddle between Contemplation and Bella Vista; in the end there was no end-running to be had, though this author preferred the shorter, to the longer steep slope – especially coming down! We gained the Bella Vista ridge directly from the col – most opting for a steep, direct heather pitch, while always the contrarian, your’s truly found Snow, fog, whatever, during the week. (Photo by a nice, lower angle, rock strewn ramp and gully Martin Hofmann) system at climber’s right. It was even better on turned back by steep ice off the glacier above the descent! col between the two peaks. The B group having summited quite a bit later, turned tail, and with Bella Vista ridge featured expansive views of the some difficulty, returned via our ascent route; whole area, and in hindsight was the highlight fortunately since visibility was rather limited of the week for this author – in that one had a (again) our fearless leader (Erich) had a GPS view from the top! Though our group did consider track of the entire route. climbing down off the ridge towards Priory in the end we topped out on Bella Vista SW summit having by-passed entirely the slightly higher NE one! However, in climbing the SW summit, we did discover a lower angle (and snow) slope off the ridge to the col between Bella Vista and Priory, which was used by Josh and Graham (and everyone else) on their return to camp.

Meanwhile Ken and Garrett climbed Priory Pk. E (3rd-4th class) and approached the slightly higher W peak but lacking a rope they backed off the 5th class, exposed and loose climbing required to gain the summit. To my knowledge this summit repelled all attempts that summer. They then retraced their steps and set off for distant Meadow Dome (it was still Monday by the way) returning to camp by 6:30 p.m. via Bella Vista Ridge.

The next day saw two groups summit Lindisfarne via the bench and long S ridge immediately E of camp. The only technical move came just below the summit proper where a short, class 3 jamb crack had to be climbed. The summit itself (as opposed to the ridge) was not exactly roomy and your author only “touched” it before retreating. One group (the A group) continued on down the SE ridge towards Aurora but were Descent down gully. (Photo by Martin Hofmann)

82 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 knees) did not participate.

Anyhow, Meditation was climbed on Friday by most, starting from the col between Reflection and Meditation. A very pleasant romp with what must be an exposed, airy finish involving an eroded N face cornice to reach the summit (Jim – please stay away from the edge!). Friday was also a big day for Ken and Garrett who end ran the S ridge on Lindisfarne via the bench, dropped into the next valley and made their way up to Cherry Pit Pass – where they encountered well- Five guys after climbing Reflection and Introspection (Photo by Ken trodden trail exiting the Stein valley Wong) traverse. They quickly knocked off Now comes the big gap. The author’s memory both Tabletop Mtn. and Anemone is silent and so is the logbook as to what exactly Peak before returning via the same route. happened between Tuesday and Friday of Another long day! Week 1. The next entries are dated Friday and Saturday (i.e. the last day). I do recall that we had The final day with dramatically improving weather all sorts of summery weather including snow at featured a return to Priory, this time armed with one point at camp. kit but, alas, the final passage proved just too airy and elusive. Ken and Garrett managed to bag I suspect Wednesday (or at least one day) was Meditation on their way back – having climbed so relentlessly wet that everyone stayed home. every single peak in the area with the exception We managed to summit Reflection as well as a of Tundra and Aurora. Colleen and Erich put up smaller bump to the NW (dubbed Introspection) three routes on the cliff below camp (below the at some point. Much bouldering and boulder refrigerator) while yours truly did both a lower hopping involved; yours truly (with the wobbly and upper valley circuit making note of the sheer number and variety of wildflowers. Alas, I cannot

Tabletop Peak, Anemone and Garrett. (Photo by Ken Wong)

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 83 Hoffmann, Alcina de Oliveira, Graham Smith, and Garrett White. Scott Collins, camp chair voyeur and author. ______

Mount Baker Easton Glacier

Andrew Pape-Salmon July 28, 2019

______

I co-organized a Mount Baker ascent as an ACC- VI trip with Brett Carter from my running club and Flower meadow south of camp. (Photo by Ken three rope teams of four people. This was my Wong) fifth time to the summit of Mount Baker (elevation tell the difference between cinquefoil and a 3,286 m), the giant beauty that we look at every buttercup so of little help to those who followed. clear day in Victoria. As many readers know, it In summary, during our wet and wild week, we has massive prominence next to the Strait of managed to summit every peak that surrounded Georgia and Puget Sound, a common feature of our camp, with some farther afield, by their volcanoes. easiest routes. The camp itself was very roomy and in contrast to later weeks we had not too This was my first trip up the Easton Glacier from much trouble with bugs nor varmints and a the south with a rewarding glacier experience, yet nearby snow patch lasted most of the week for this was a longer and potentially more technical refrigeration. The selection of the site (a big S route than the typical route for Canadians up the facing bowl that Russ Moir described as blazingly Coleman and Deming glaciers. The route from hot) was not without controversy, it being the the north was closed due to an unstable serac at last amongst those surveyed by helicopter to be the top of the Coleman glacier with associated selected – at least the pilot liked it. avalanches.

Trip Participants: Erich Schellhammer (Manager) The Easton route includes a long hike along Catrin Brown, Jim Raper, Colleen Kasting, Mike the “Railgrade Trail”, the name of which is a Hubbard, Albert van Citters, Ian and Margaret misnomer, as the railroad ran to the town of Brown, Ken Wong, Josh Slatkoff, Martin Glacier on the other side of the mountain.

We camped at the highest point just below the open glacier, but ended up waiting out a day of rain and cloudy weather to do “Snow and Glacier School” such as “walk like John Wayne” on crampons, ice axe “self- arrest” on steep snow slopes (head- first and foot-first, on back and on chest), walking in rope teams, and “crevasse rescue”.

On Sunday, July 28, we made the summit by 7:30 a.m. after a 2:20 Mountain scenery on a clearer day. (Photo by Martin Hoffmann) a.m. departure from our camp. Why 84 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 there were easily over 100 people summiting and we were near the front.

Near the top of the glacier we crossed two sketchy snow bridges over large crevasses that frankly were likely to fail in the coming days. As the morning progressed teams moved off one of those bridges to cross farther west, the route we took on our descent.

One cool thing about Baker is that it is an active volcano - the Sherman Crater is steaming away and leaves a sulfur smell and lots of pumice build up around it. We summited five hours after our start in brilliant sun and clear blue sky.

Although gravity is on your side heading down, the temperature is rising and any “hot spots” on

Railgrade Trail” along Easton Glacier. (Photo by Andrew Pape-Salmon) go so early? Many reasons - (1) frozen snow bridges over crevasses that would fail if thawed; (2) less rock fall; (3) smaller avalanche risk due to melt; (4) less chance of overheating on a major climb; and (5) the beauty of watching the sunrise from the top of a mountain. It was fortuitous we left so early and camped so high, as that day Mount Baker Summit: 10,781ft. (Photo by Andrew Pape-Salmon)

Sherman Crater. (Photo by Andrew Pape-Salmon) Denning Glacier. (Photo by Andrew Pape-Salmon)

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 85 your feet turn to real blisters. Also, the fatigue sets in with such a long day, including time at elevation. I suffer from a mild cerebral edema (altitude sickness), a lightheaded feeling, while others feel it in their lungs. This last photo is taken in the general direction toward Victoria, BC.

I feel so privileged to have experienced several glaciers in 2019 and two brilliant peaks above 10,000 ft elevation, the views from which are sublime, the journeys offering unparalleled physical experiences, Crew at Lake Ann basecamp. (Photo by Erica Ellefsen) and the environment that provide tranquility and spiritual uplifting. We didn’t hike any higher as we had not secured a permit to camp in the National Park. Lake Participants: Andrew Pape-Salmon and Brett Ann is in the National Forest, so no permits for Carter (trip leaders), Magdalena Bazalova-Carter, camping are required there. Ryan Bartlett, Walter Cantwell, Jacob Brunning, In retrospect, I wish we had secured a Tara Cadeau, Chris Demetrioff, David Eirikson, backcountry camping permit and spent the night Brett MacDonald, Zoe Minnaard, Jim Swan, Scott farther up the mountain. (You will see why by the Sheldrake, Tim Watson.

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Mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys

Jes Scott August 2-5, 2019

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The traditional name of Mount Shuksan in the Nooksack language is Shéqsan (“high foot”) or Ch’ésqen (“golden eagle”). Climbing this mountain can be a significant challenge, especially taking the route that we did. We got up early, picked up our parking permits at the ranger station in Glacier and hiked for two hours to Lake Ann.

The trail to Lake Ann was so thoughtfully made. It slowly wound its way up the mountain, making sure we had every chance to take in stunning views of Mt. Baker. Naturally the lake was full of folks camping for the weekend. The rangers had warned us “all the spots would be taken.” But we had no problem finding a spot on a durable Kara climbing Fisher Chimneys. (Photo by Erica surface despite the fantastic weather. Ellefsen) 86 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 end of this trip report.) We had heard the glacier This was the part of the route that was keeping cracking, groaning and spitting rocks down me up at night. I don’t have that much experience all afternoon the day before. So we felt quite on ice, but, luckily, it was covered in crunchy inspired for an alpine start. Up at 3:00 a.m. and snow. moving by 4:00. We got the first hour or so hiking done in the dark. The next part was a long march across the glacier to Hell’s Highway. From a distance, Hell’s We started climbing just as the sun started Highway looks like an insurmountably steep to peak over the horizon. We all paused to wall. Having been here before, I knew it would soak in the stunning sunrise, not knowing that later that day we’d unfortunately be taking in the sunset at the very same spot. Fisher Chimneys is a mix of fourth class climbing and exposed ridge walking. We all climbed without ropes. I think it would be hard to protect with gear, but someone could have scrambled up and belayed from the top if they had wanted to. After an hour of hiking and two hours of scrambling, we arrived on the glacier.

The first challenge was Winnie’s slide, which is usually a very steep Sulfide Glacier. (Photo by Erica Ellefsen) wall of snow. Or this year, mostly ice. Luckily, previous climbers had found a path appear gentler as we approached. Now for the along the rock that was soft enough to kick steps. rather tedious slog up the Sulphide Glacier. It And up we went. Some folks consider Winnie’s was so hot, so long and rather boring. My mind slide to be the crux. I was much more worried wandered. My vision was getting blurry. I started about the part around the corner. When I was wondering if I was dehydrated. Then I realized it here seven years ago, it was steep ice. was just sunscreen melting into my eyes.

As we got closer to the summit pyramid, I counted more than 20 people waiting to pass through a bottleneck on the standard route. I felt a bit of longing for the empty mountains on Vancouver Island.

To try to save time, I convinced folks to check out the more difficult climbing route instead. After poking around, we decided this route was not in the cards for us that day. We headed back to the standard route. The climbing up the standard route was easier than Fisher Chimneys but scarier. There was quite a lot of loose rock. I was worried about Jes Above Winnie's Slide. (Photo by Erica Ellefsen) hurting someone below me or having

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 87 a hold break off. And then we arrived at the go for over 12 hours. I was getting tired. Not summit. We were officially halfway through with really my legs, but my brain. I had been at the our adventure. front of the rope team, coaching people through tricky climbing and just making all sorts of high It was time to get down that slushy afternoon consequence decisions since 4:00 a.m. Dead snow as quickly and safely as possible. First, we end. I made a wrong turn coming down the had to do a million rappels. My biggest mistake glacier. Tired.

Getting down Winnie’s Slide is the first time I felt concerned about the conditions. As I approached the down climb, I felt my stomach drop into my knees. The snowy edge we had come up was crumbling in the heat of the day. It was a long way down to the rock below if the snow broke off below our feet. Most of us decided to rappel. Most of us were belayed from the rappel station. This was rather good decision making. We felt relieved to get back to familiar rock climbing and rappelling in Fisher Chimneys.

The relief was short lived as the sun started to set. Lake Ann and our tents now visible, but so Shuksan summit (Photo by Erica Ellefsen) far away. It eventually became too dark for us to down climb, so we continued with hours of rappels. With one rope. In the dark. on this trip was bringing only one rope for a party of five. On the glacier, it made sense for us to Now we should have never put ourselves travel on one rope. But rappelling with one rope in this situation. It was entirely avoidable by was about to eat up the rest of our day. making different decisions earlier in the trip. But After arriving at the snow, we zipped down the considering we now had to get through this, I was glacier as fast as we could. But it was a quite a so happy with how we handled it. Everyone kept long way to go. At this point, we’d been on the a positive attitude. No complaining. Every rappel was quickly checked by a buddy to keep us safe.

We rolled into camp 20 hours after we started. The next day, Ryan, Chris and Kara headed out early to beat the heat. Erica and I left a little bit later. And we marveled at what we climbed the day before.

Participants: Kara Aschenbrenner and Jes Scott (leaders), Erica Ellefsen, Chris Vanderfourd and Ryan Bartlett.

Rappelling off the summit of Shuksan (Photo by Erica Ellefsen)

88 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 A view of Shuksan and Baker at sunset. (Photo by Erica Ellefsen) ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼ The and surrounding plains are the ancestral home of the Jinibara people and Kabi Kabi people. According to Jinibara peoples’ lore and custom, Beerwah is the DISTANT PLACES ancestral pregnant mother and Tibrogargan is the father with his faithful dingo, Ngungun. Around the parents are their children – Coonowrin ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲ the eldest, Beerburrum, Coochin, Elimbah, Tibberoowuccum, Miketeebumulgrai, Tunbubudla the twins and the youngest know today as Wild ______Horse.

The Glass House Mountains With a violent storm approaching Tibrogargan, the father, commanded his eldest son Coonowrin Lindsay Elms to help his pregnant mother Beerwah and siblings February 25, 2019 move to safety. Being scared of the storm Coonowrin instead fled. Infuriated by his son’s ______cowardliness, Tibrogargan pursued him and struck him with his nulla nulla (a hardwood club) Seventy km north of on the southeast on the back of his head resulting in Coonowrin’s coast of are the iconic Glass House Mountains: a group of eleven trachyte plugs that rise dramatically from the surrounding landscape. They are remnants of volcanic activity that occurred 26 - 27 million years ago. The 11 Glass House Mountains are: Mount Beerwah (556 m), Mount Coonowrin or Crookneck (377 m), (364 m), Mount Tunbubudla or the Twins (312m and 293 m), Mount Beerburrum (278 m), Mount Ngungun (253 m), Mount Coochin (235 m), Mount Tibberoowuccum (220 m), Mount Miketeebumulgrai (199 m), Mount Mount Beerwah (background) and Mount Elimbah or The Saddleback (129 m) and Wild Coonowrin from the summit of Mount Ngungun. Horse Mountain (123 m). (Photo by Lindsay Elms)

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 89 crooked neck. Once the danger passed Today most of the mountains have trails to Coonowrin felt tremendous guilt for his actions their summits with the most popular being and asked his father, brothers and sisters for Mount Ngungun. Mount Ngungun is the sixth forgiveness but they all wept with shame. This is tallest of the Glass House Mountains and has said to explain the many small streams that flow a well-maintained hiking trail to the summit that through the area. Tibrogargan turned his back affords great views. The trail from the carpark on Coonowrin and gazed out to sea refusing to is not as steep as the higher mountains and is look at his son who continues to hang his head in recommended for beginners so we undertook shame. the hike to get our first glimpse around the countryside. The third highest mountain, Mount To the Jinibara people there is nothing more Tibrogargan, has a trail that circumnavigates the important than a mother giving birth and the mountain but there is a steep climber’s route people are taught to respect and protect Mount to the summit. Early afternoon we decided to Beerwah, a deeply spiritual place. Their lore and climb the peak (we’d just challenged ourselves custom teach them not to climb this mountain out on Mount Ngungun) and for Val to take the next of respect for its great sacredness. step on her path back into the mountains after her accident. Having recently hiked a few trails

Mount Tibrogargan and the obvious trail to the summit. (Photo by Lindsay Elms)

The first European to see these mountains was Captain James Cook in 1770 when he was sailing down the coast of . He gave them the name Glass House Mountains as the peaks reminded him of the glass furnaces in his home county of Yorkshire in England. All the mountains were first climbed in the 1800’s but the most challenging peak is Mount Coonowrin. Climbing has been banned on Mount Coonowrin since 1999 as the terrain was deemed too dangerous; however, one interesting early ascent of Mount Coonowrin happened on Empire Day, 1912, when a party of (Jenny, Sara and Etty Clark) made the first female ascent with their male companions. They began their attempt at dawn by cycling from Brisbane, climbed a new route today know as Clark’s Gully, and then cycled back the 70 km to Brisbane arriving at 10 Mount Beerwah (left) and Mount Coonowrin (right) p.m.—what might be called a ‘green’ ascent. from the summit of Mount Tibrogargan. (Photo by Lindsay Elms)

90 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 in some of Queensland’s National Parks, and As with any climb, it is the descent where one before heading off to the Great Barrier Reef needs to be especially cautious. Again, making for some snorkeling, I thought she was ready sure she had good points of contact Val slowly to attempt a rock route albeit a 4th/low 5th class scrambled down the route taking joy in being route. After hiking in 800 m from the carpark we back in touch with the rock and on another found the sign pointing towards the climbing mountain, albeit not a very tall one. route. It said the route was for experienced climbers only and was subject to rockfall and was On the final 20 m section I found an alternate slippery after rain. Although we had experienced descent route (still 5th class) but on nice warm a few scuds (local slang for sun-showers) in the rock. Two and a half hours after starting we were morning, we had not received any moisture in the back at the car ready to drive into Brisbane. last four hours. The rock looked warm and dry. Although there are no big mountains like what we are used too on Vancouver Island, it was fun We scrambled up the trail to the bottom of the scrambling around on the picturesque Glass first pitch – a 20 m section of 5.4 rock with lots House Mountains. of good hand and foot holds. The route then followed what looked like a water course, which Participants: Val Wootton, Lindsay Elms in places is, but in many places the topsoil has just been eroded off by climbers. In several ______places on either side of the route were signs indicating to stay away from the steep drop-offs. Spring in Japan We continued scrambling up the 4th class rock with a few low 5th moves. Occasionally Val felt like her leg was giving out but she made sure Tak Ogasawara she had good points of contact and after about April-May, 2019 forty-five minutes we scrambled onto the summit. It was too bad that it was a little hazy as the view ______was stunning. During the spring of 2019, I was in Japan for three months and subsequently made four memorable trips to the mountains.

Kumano Kodou (April 15-18). A spiritual pilgrimage trail to Kumano Hongu Shrine on the Kii Peninsula. In 2016, this ancient trail was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. There are three trails toward the Kumano Hongu Shrine, the first one being mountainous, the second runs along the seaside and last is between these two trails. Written history says that the trails were established almost 1000 years ago and since then have been walked by nobility and commoners. We chose the mountainous trail, called Kohechi, which is the longest of the three trails. This trail starts from the Mt.Kouya Temple in Nara Prefecture, then goes through Wakayama Prefecture, and finishes at Kumano Hongu in Mie Prefecture after a distance of 70 km. This mountainous trail consists of several 1000 m Val descending the trail on Mount Tibrogargan. high passes and winds through numerous old (Photo by Lindsay Elms) villages. I have wanted to walk this trail every

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 91 time I returned to Japan, but never had a chance to do so and this time I was lucky to walk with an old friend.

After spending a night at the friend’s house, we left for Mt. Kouya early in the morning and arrived there at 10:00 a.m. Before heading up the trail we visited the Kongoubuji Temple and prayed for a safe journey. We went through Kouya Town and soon after we were at the trail head. The trail went up gently and at the pass we were high enough to see mountains all around. From there we walked a wide, level trail for a short distance, then we continued downward to a small village, then up again through several abandoned houses to arrive at the Ryujin Highway. We walked on the highway for a bit, then back to the trail toward the first 1000 m pass, the Mizugamine Pass, then down to the Oumata village for the night. We crossed Oumata Bridge and the trail went up quite steeply to the Mt.Obako summit. We arrived at a very wide open summit around noon, had a short rest on the summit, and then went down on the stone-laid trail to the night’s The Kumano Trail. (Photo by Tak Ogasawara) stay in Miuraguchi Village. It had been a long, village we said goodbye to a stone statue. Soon steep downward trudge and my toe had started after, we passed through a small temple and then hurt. I was lucky to have a pair of runners in my came up to Tatenashi Pass. From the pass, the pack, so I changed to them. After that I had no trail went down gently and soon after we saw the problems going down. It was around 3:00 when Kumano River far down below and before long we arrived at Miuraguchi where we stayed at a we arrived at Yagio Village. From Yagio, it was a farmer’s house for the night. We walked on the long walk on the paved highway to Hongu. We paved road for a bit, crossed a bridge, continued wanted to take a bus but there wasn’t one for up to the Miura Pass, then down to the next two hours, so we decided to walk the last stretch village, Nishinaka. of the trail to Hongu. We walked the paved road for a while to the junction where the trail met a On the trail we met several local people and second trail. From there we walked on a wide, chatted about their lives around this trail. The stone-laid trail, had a little detour to look down trail from Nishinaka to the next night’s stay, on Hongu’s torii gate, and then went back to the Totsugawa Hot Springs, was a quite long walk main trail. It was not long before we reached on the paved road, so we opted to take a bus Hongu Town, where we passed several small instead of walking. On the last day of the trip, we shrines and continued to the Kumano Hongu passed through Tatenashi Village, and then over Shrine. At this shrine we thanked to the gods for the last 1000 m pass (Tatenashi Pass) to arrive at our four-day safe journey. the Kumano Hongu Shrine. On the day of spring From the inn we crossed a red bridge over Lake Reflect old day Totsugawa, and walked a short distance to the Kumano kodou trail head. From there we walked on the steep stone-laid trail toward Tatenashi Village. At the Three mountains around Oze Marshland (April entrance of this pastoral village we were greeted 27-29). Surrounded by 2000 m high mountains, by a lone, fully-blossomed cherry tree. We went the Oze Marshland is very famous for its skunk through a couple of houses and at the end of the cabbage habitat. Unlike the yellow Canadian

92 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 skunk cabbage, Japanese skunk cabbage has white petals.

Our plan was to go up from Hatomachi Pass to Mt.Shibutsu crossing the Oze Marshland, then up to Mt.Hiuchi, then down to Hinoemata Village and up again to the last mountain, Mt.Aizukoma, for three days.

Early in the morning I left Tokyo to travel to Numata where I met rest of group members, four ladies and four men. From there we took a bus to Hatomachi Pass where we put on our jackets and over-pants. We went up a gentle slope and, for the moment, the weather was reasonable, but as we went higher, snow started to fall and a Oze. (Photo by Tak Ogasawara) strong wind picked up. A number of people who When summer comes we remember were descending told us that there were very strong winds and no visibility above. After a short Far away Oze while, we reached the ridge line and the wind Floating in the fog was getting stronger and stronger every minute Gentle shadow and the visibility was almost nil: however, nobody At the mountain trail said anything about going back, so we continued Skunk cabbage bloom toward Mt. Shibutsu. Just like dream beside waterside When we arrived at the summit of Mt.Shibutsu, I This is a very famous children’s song we all sang was thinking about going back down the way we when we were young. The weather was cloudy came up because of the weather. I talked to our but once in a while sun showed up and it was leader, Mr. Satou, and he said he knew a route magical to see the shadows of people on the down to other side that was much quicker than snow. After crossing the Marshland we went up going back, so with this advice we started down. the gentle slope of beech forest, then down into a Occasionally we saw markers on the slope, but shallow gully. finding a route to go down was mostly by instinct. As we descended, the wind lessened and the We followed this gully a little bit to the pass visibility improved. Soon we saw foot prints in where we could see summit of Mt. Houchi to the snow and we followed them to the tree line, the left and small peak at front. On the left side walked a little in the forest, and arrived at the of the pass there was a ridge that came down night’s hut. from the summit. We followed this ridge and, soon after, we reached the summit without any I went outside early in the morning and found problems. On the summit, we could see Oze fresh snow on the ground, and the air was crisp Marshland down below and a 360 degree view of and refreshing. Our plan for this day was to cross the mountains. We stayed on the summit quite Oze Marshland and go up Mt.Houchi, then down a while, and enjoyed view in the sun. Then we on other side to Hinoemata Village. Instead of went down to north side of the summit, carefully eating breakfast at the hut, we received lunch descending about 100 m of steep slope, and boxes and left the hut early in the morning. There then we ascended the small peak, which we had was about 10 cm of fresh snow on the ground seen from the pass earlier, where there appeared when we started crossing Oze Marshland. In the to be quite a number of people. When I saw all Marshland there was still quite a bit of snow but these people from the pass, I wondered why so small streams began show up, which was a sign there were so many there instead of on the main that spring was coming soon. summit. When we reached the small peak and looked down other side, we saw a fantastic ski ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 93 slope. They were all skiers. After we looked back at Mt. Houchi one last time, we headed down on Embraced by the fresh snow. Gravity helped us go down very Mt.Shibutsu and Mt.Hiuchi quickly to Ozeouuike where the paved road came Waiting for spring come to Oze up from village. Soon after we arrived there, a bus came up, and it did not take long for us to get Marshland Skiing at Mt.Tate (May 6-8). I left to Hinoemata village’s Masuya Inn for our night’s Tokyo Shinjuku bus terminal by overnight bus to stay. Ougisaw and arrived at 5:30 a.m., at the place where the Mt.Tate Alpine Motor Way starts. The On our last day of the trip there was one more bus departed at the station exactly at 7:30; first mountain to go up; Mt.Aizukoma. Unlike the I travelled by electric bus, then cable car, then previous day, we were not in a hurry and, ropeway, and then bus again to the Murodou therefore, we ate a nice breakfast at the inn and station at the highest point of the Alpine Way and decided turnaround time would be at 11:30, which the starting point of all mountain climbing routes. we were hoping would be enough time to reach After a short walk from the Murodou station the summit. through the snow, I arrived at Raichiyou Hut where I would be staying for the next three days. We left the Inn at 8 a.m. and the weather was After I checked in, I put all my belongings in my again perfect, and there were people already room and decided to do some skiing. on the road. We walked for about 30 minutes and arrived at the trail head where the wooden I skied from the hut down to the flat below where steps showed that it was the start of the trail. At the Raichoyo Campsite was, then skied up to the beginning there was no snow but soon after Ichinokoshi Pass where I was planning to ski we were on a snow slope. We took a couple of out to Lake Kurobe. There are two routes to ski short rests and three hours later we were above out to Lake Kurobe; via Miyama Canyon or via the tree line and, for the first time, we saw our Tanbo Flat through East Ichinokoshi Pass. From destination Mt. Aizukoma. From there, three of us the pass I could see both routes quite well but went ahead of the rest of the group towards the hut keeper at Ichinokoshi Pass said the Canyon summit above the tree line. route was a no go, because there was no snow at the bottom. The Tanbo Flat route did not have There was a wide snow field and several small any problems until one reached the Kurobedaira bumps to overcome before reaching the hut on Cable Station but, again, from the station to the the shoulder above. Two ladies with me stopped lake there was no snow at the bottom. at the hut, but as the summit was not far away, I decided to climb it. I dumped my pack beside the I checked next day’s weather forecast, which said hut and headed out. It did not take long for me to there would be 10 to 15 cm of snow overnight. I reach the summit, where there was nothing but woke up early the morning and looked outside: wide open space. sure enough, 20 cm of snow had fallen overnight. By that time the snow had already stopped and I stayed there a little bit and then jogged back the weather looked reasonable, so I decided down to the hut where the two ladies were to ski up the ridge which leads to Turugigozen waiting for me. On the way down from the hut we Pass where the Turugigozen hut is stationed. It met Mr. Satou at the tree line and from there we took me about two hours to the hut and I had a went down together. Shortly after that, we met fantastic ski down the other side to the Turugi the rest of our group, and descended exactly the Canyon. I could not see Mt. Turugi but I saw same way we had come up. the Eight Peaks Ridge behind the clouds; I had climbed this many times over 50 years ago. It did not take long for us to get back to the trail head and we arrived at the bus station at the I skied back up to the pass, then skied down the Hinoemata village at 2:00 p.m. We went to the shallow Raichiyou Gully and got back Raichiyou railway station, Ozekougen, by bus to complete Hut at 4:00 p.m. After I got back to the hut I went our three-day Oze trip. behind it to see the volcanic activity far down

94 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 below .There was a lot of smoke, steam and I smelled sulfur. I went back to the hut where I dipped into the hot spring there. I saw Mt. Dainichi from the hot spring, it was so beautiful.

On the last day of my trip, I was not sure if I should use the Murodou Motor Way or ski out because of the new snow the day before. I decided to go up to Ichinokoshi Pass and, if the snow and visibility were good, I would ski out using Tanbo Flat Route. If not, I would come back to the Murodu and take the Motor Way out. At Ichinokoship Pass I looked toward the Tanbo Flat Route and decided to ski out. From the pass I skied down a little bit, then put the skis on my The South Arête route in Iichinokura Canyon. (Photo shoulder and walked toward East Ichinokoshi by Tak Ogasawara) Pass. It took me about one hour to reach East the late 1960s, I wanted to go there, but it was no Ichinokoshi Pass from Ichinokoshi Pass. From place for beginners like me. Almost 50 years later there I could see the Kurobedaira Cable Station I finally had the chance to go there and climb. far below. The slope was a little bit steep at the Even though I was not feeling well, but I decided beginning, so I did a couple of kick turns; after to go. that I skied down comfortably to the cable station to end my ski trip. In the Canyon there are many routes but not many of them are free. The two main free routes are the South Arête and the Central Arête. I chose the former route because this line has a great view of the entire canyon and is less bushy than the Central Arête. I set up my tent at the junction of the canyon the night before and waited for my partner, Mr. Satou, to arrive the following morning. Early in the morning he showed up. After I cleaned up my tent site, we walked in snow along the canyon and then ascended onto Tail Ridge. We crossed the bottom of Central Arête, then over the Eboshi Slab to gain our route, the South Arête, and the wide Mount Tate. (Photo by Tak Ogasawara) ledge indicating the beginning of the climb. The weather was great and Mt.Tanigawa Ichinokura Canyon South Arête the rock was dry. The route was seven pitches (May 24-25) Mt.Tanigawa Ichinokura Canyon long, the 1st, 3rd and last pitches having a few was one of the most famous and dangerous awkward moves, but without much trouble we alpine rock climbing areas in Japan. I was kind of finished the climb. We did four abseils to get back sick, coughing, and I did not have much energy the ledge where we started the climb. There we for the past two weeks. changed back into boots, and went down the way we had come up without any problems. After the My condition was not great, but I thought this climb Mr.Satou said it had been impossible to would be my last chance to climb the famous the climb a week earlier because of the snow falling Iichinokura Canyon. When I started to climb in from the ridge above. With great weather and no

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 95 one else there we were so lucky to have enjoyed and deftly chopped open coconuts, inserting an climbing on perfect day elegant bamboo straw to drink the cool juice. At one point a falling coconut narrowly missed us. Walk up on the snow It struck me that being bonked on the head by a I look above coconut might not be a bad way to go, especially Sunrise brighten up if one were on a palm beach with a cold beer in Canyon wall hand.

Participant: Tak Ogasawara Late in the day after a dozen crossings of the

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The Manbush Trail

Liz Williams December 2019

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Malekula is the second largest island of Vanuatu, a sparsely populated island of dense mountainous jungle, cannibal sites, and home to the Big Namba and Smol Namba tribes. My Melkem village stay. (Photo by Liz Williams) prime objective was to hike the Manbush Trail, four days bushwalk across the island from Unua Nayem Fale River we arrived at a beach where in the east to Lawa in the west plus a further day the Lads built a fire and roasted huge plantain of boating up the coast and riding a truck to get while I dunked in the river for a wash. We stayed back to Lakatoro, the ‘capital’ of Malekula. (There that night in the village of Melkem (all the villages are all of two grocery stores in Lakatoro selling of Malekula are simple leaf hut communities), Chinese peanut butter and little else but there is feasting on rice and river prawns and sleeping a huge outdoor market full of real food – yams, on pandanus mats in a shared hut. That night taro, breadfruit, bananas, green onions...). Edu left the hut for a while, closing the latch on the outside and trapping me inside. Apart From Lakatoro, I bumped around in the back from wanting to pee it made me aware of how of a pick-up truck for two hours, heading south. In places the Chinese are fixing the appalling road to access their copra plantations. Foreign ownership of land is not allowed in Vanuatu but leases up to 75 years are signed with very little oversight on how the land is managed. Amongst the locals there seemed to be some awareness of the risks of handing over land and resources to the Chinese.

I set out on the Manbush trail with two barefoot man-bush (Edu and Non) who skillfully whacked the trail ahead with their bush knives. They showed me which part of the prickly wild yam vine to use; broke open cacao pods to suck the pith; collected black-coated ngali nuts to eat later; A ‘comfy’ bed. (Photo by Liz Williams)

96 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 where I drank from a crystal clear pool in a cave, guaranteed to render me ageless. We drank freely from the rivers along the route because there is no habitation or apparent animal life. Apart from a dime-size tick in my armpit I suffered no ills. On the third night we arrived at the village of Lewinlivat. Down a steep path we found a delightful pool and waterfall to clean up in, all surrounded by wild impatiens flowers. That night

Central Malekula Jungle. (Photo by Liz Williams) impregnable these woven bamboo and palm frond huts are – I certainly could not break out.

The second day, after many more river crossings we climbed high in the jungle to a bush camp shelter. Non built a fire by rubbing two types of wood together and re-heated bamboo shafts filled with the roasted prawns that he’d been carrying. Plates were banana leaves, mugs were a portion of a bamboo pole. The only implements used over four days were the Lads’ trusty bush knives and an iron pot. We slept on banana leaves, the spines of which were less than comfortable. River prawns for dinner.” (Photo by Liz Williams)

Heavy rain and thunder in the night meant travelling up and down a very slippery, muddy we were regaled with a feast of wild yam, water trail the next day. We learned how to use laplap taro, roasted water cress, fresh cucumber, and leaves; where the cannibals from the highlands pumpkin dressed in coconut sauce. Later, Non fought (and ate) the tribes from the coast; what came into the village dragging what looked like parts of the wild pumpkin to harvest; and how half a tree, which he pounded and soaked to the Big Hole in the middle of the island fills make kava for me, the local anaesthetizing drink. with seawater. I was taken down a steep path The fourth day we descended more precipitous muddy slopes to a charming river confluence and waterfall. Here, the Lads had planned a special ceremony. My travel companion and I stripped down. He was adorned with a pandanus namba (penis sheath) while I was rubbed all over with red plant juice and dressed in a pandanus skirt. The trek ended on the southwest coast where we had a lovely ocean view leaf bungalow for the night. The next day we took an open boat for two hours north quite far off shore to avoid the reefs and sandbars. We had no oars, life-jackets or electronics. Out there under the blazing sun in the Coral Sea it felt quite “Life of Pi” although there was no tiger on board.

Elixir of life. (Photo by Liz Williams Participants: Liz Williams, Graham Maddocks

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Vancouver Island

Clouds Disperse over Landslide Lake

Photo: Elizabeth Robertson

98 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Vancouver Island (honourable mention)

A View from 5040

Photo: Erica Ellefsen

Mountain Scenery (honorable mention)

Mirren Lake

Photo: Jarrett Levesque

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 99 Summer Activity (honorable mention)

Max Fisher Climbing the Conuma Arch

Photo: Hunter Lee

Winter Activity (honorable mention)

Climbing North Seaman

Photo: Catrin Brown

Summer Activity (honorable mention)

Climbing the Kain Gendarme

Photo: Tom Roozendaal

100 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Winter Activity

Dan McKean and Even Devault Climbing Newman-Foweraker on Mt Arrowsmith

Photo: Hunter Lee

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 101 Mountain Scenery

Þórsmörk (Thorsmork) Iceland

Photo: Rob Macdonald

Mountain Scenery (honourable mention)

Limestone Formation in the Italian Dolomites

Photo: Rick Hudson

102 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Nature

Fungal Snake

Photo: Liz Williams

Nature (honourable mention)

Hermit's Ermine

Photo: Rob Macdonald

ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 103 Summer Activity

Baffin Island

Photo: Nadja Steiner

104 ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL - 2019 Humour

Lyle on Baffin Island

Photo: Nadja Steiner

Humour (honourable mention)

Liiquid Sunshine at Mt Myra

Photo: Ken Wong

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