1910 #19 Nightgown – Chemise De Nuit

1910 #19 Nightgown – Chemise de Nuit

We will need, for this object essential in the trousseau of the doll, five patterns: #1 Half of the front; that of the back is exactly the same: only one pattern is thus needed; #2 Scalloped band of the front; #3 Sleeve; #4 Collar; #5 Cuffs.

The half of the front, the same, as we mentioned above is cut on the fabric folded double. The side of the pattern where are found these words: “Pli de l’etoffe droit-fil” [Fold of the fabric on the straight thread] is put edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. Then, one cuts through the middle until the place where stops the line made of a single black stroke: it is the opening of the nightgown which one will hem on the two sides.

The back is cut in the same way, with this slight difference that one does not make a split. Back and front are assembled by the shoulder seams and the side seams.

Manche [Sleeve]. – It is cut by placing the pattern on the fabric folded double. For the top, one removes the part of the fabric contained between the higher convex edge and the lower concave line, made of a black line barred with small lines. One closes the sleeve by the seam C; the scissors do not pass along the dotted line. This dotted line of the pattern is put edge to edge with the fold of the fabric.

To mount the sleeve, one gathers it a little until it is brought back to the measurement of the armhole, then sews it with this one, placing the point C of the sleeve with the point C (small arrow) of the armhole. One puts a few more gathers on the top of the shoulder, so as to not have them under the arm.

The sleeve, gathered at the bottom, is decorated with a cuff made with two layers of fabric.

After having embroidered the cuff, make the buttonhole and place the button, one will sew it onto the gathered edge of the sleeve by putting the two points d of the cuff the one on the other and on the point d of the sleeve.

The band of the front is made of fabric folded double. After having scalloped it and made the buttonholes, you will sew it on one of the sides of the slit, while placing a on a and b on b. Then you will mark with a stitch where each buttonhole falls in order to sew the buttons there.

The collar is placed last. Our drawing gives it to you in half; after having traced the model on the left side of the fabric, you will transfer it well by bringing it up on the right to agree with the dotted line, which marks the middle of the collar at the back. It should be made on the two doubled, like the cuffs and the band of the front.

If you want to proceed more exactly, you will place the pattern on a rectangle of fabric folded double putting the dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric, and you will cut out without keeping close to the scallops, but by leaving a centimeter and a half around the pattern. Then you will trace the scallops [and trace them again with a needle and thread].

The collar is sewn around the neckline, which you will gather beforehand in the front and in the back until it is brought back to the measurement of the collar. The dotted line must be right in the middle of the back, and the point a on the point a of the neckline.

The nightgown is made out of percale or madapolam, according to whether it is wanted more or less fine. The object not being large [since it is] for Bleuette, one will make the scallops without padding, with embroidery cotton not too large. Small glove buttons of mother-of-pearl or china.

The seams in lingerie must be turned down; this is neater. You will begin by sewing with a running stitch, also known as straight stitch; then, reducing with the scissors one of the edges of the seam [allowance], you fold down the other on top with a hemstitch.

All lingerie work demands a lot of care. Nothing is more untidy than undergarments badly made. It is always necessary to take care to wash the hands before taking your work.

There are several precepts to observe in lingerie work: #1 To take short needles; #2 To choose rather fine, relative with the thickness of the fabric; #3 To take thread finer than the fabric; #4 Never make a knot with your thread.

When one begins sewing a hem, one passes under the fold of the hem a centimeter of thread in front of the stitch where one will begin to sew. This end of thread will thus, shortly, be sewn by the hemstitching which will bite on it at the same time as on the fabric.

If it is a matter of a seam in running stitch one cuts the thread without [taking] a backstitch; but one begins again with the new sewing one centimeter back from the place where the needle preceding finished. Over the length of about one centimeter the seam is thus made twice, and the two threads, the one which finishes and the one which begins, are crossed. That is sufficient for the stability of the work, and the seam remains very flat and very neat, -- which is essential in lingerie.

Sometimes the madapolam which is glossy is hard to sew. The work ceases being difficult, if you soap with dry soap on the place where the needle will pass.