DOCSLIB.ORG

1910 #19 Nightgown – Chemise De Nuit

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
1910 #19 Nightgown – Chemise De Nuit 1910 #19 Nightgown – Chemise de Nuit We will need, for this object essential in the trousseau of the doll, five patterns: #1 Half of the front; that of the back is exactly the same: only one pattern is thus needed; #2 Scalloped band of the front; #3 Sleeve; #4 Collar; #5 Cuffs. The half of the front, the same, as we mentioned above is cut on the fabric folded double. The side of the pattern where are found these words: “Pli de l’etoffe droit-fil” [Fold of the fabric on the straight thread] is put edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. Then, one cuts through the middle until the place where stops the line made of a single black stroke: it is the opening of the nightgown which one will hem on the two sides. The back is cut in the same way, with this slight difference that one does not make a split. Back and front are assembled by the shoulder seams and the side seams. Manche [Sleeve]. – It is cut by placing the pattern on the fabric folded double. For the top, one removes the part of the fabric contained between the higher convex edge and the lower concave line, made of a black line barred with small lines. One closes the sleeve by the seam C; the scissors do not pass along the dotted line. This dotted line of the pattern is put edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. To mount the sleeve, one gathers it a little until it is brought back to the measurement of the armhole, then sews it with this one, placing the point C of the sleeve with the point C (small arrow) of the armhole. One puts a few more gathers on the top of the shoulder, so as to not have them under the arm. The sleeve, gathered at the bottom, is decorated with a cuff made with two layers of fabric. After having embroidered the cuff, make the buttonhole and place the button, one will sew it onto the gathered edge of the sleeve by putting the two points d of the cuff the one on the other and on the point d of the sleeve. The band of the front is made of fabric folded double. After having scalloped it and made the buttonholes, you will sew it on one of the sides of the slit, while placing a on a and b on b. Then you will mark with a stitch where each buttonhole falls in order to sew the buttons there. The collar is placed last. Our drawing gives it to you in half; after having traced the model on the left side of the fabric, you will transfer it well by bringing it up on the right to agree with the dotted line, which marks the middle of the collar at the back. It should be made on the two doubled, like the cuffs and the band of the front. If you want to proceed more exactly, you will place the pattern on a rectangle of fabric folded double putting the dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric, and you will cut out without keeping close to the scallops, but by leaving a centimeter and a half around the pattern. Then you will trace the scallops [and trace them again with a needle and thread]. The collar is sewn around the neckline, which you will gather beforehand in the front and in the back until it is brought back to the measurement of the collar. The dotted line must be right in the middle of the back, and the point a on the point a of the neckline. The nightgown is made out of percale or madapolam, according to whether it is wanted more or less fine. The object not being large [since it is] for Bleuette, one will make the scallops without padding, with embroidery cotton not too large. Small glove buttons of mother-of-pearl or china. The seams in lingerie must be turned down; this is neater. You will begin by sewing with a running stitch, also known as straight stitch; then, reducing with the scissors one of the edges of the seam [allowance], you fold down the other on top with a hemstitch. All lingerie work demands a lot of care. Nothing is more untidy than undergarments badly made. It is always necessary to take care to wash the hands before taking your work. There are several precepts to observe in lingerie work: #1 To take short needles; #2 To choose rather fine, relative with the thickness of the fabric; #3 To take thread finer than the fabric; #4 Never make a knot with your thread. When one begins sewing a hem, one passes under the fold of the hem a centimeter of thread in front of the stitch where one will begin to sew. This end of thread will thus, shortly, be sewn by the hemstitching which will bite on it at the same time as on the fabric. If it is a matter of a seam in running stitch one cuts the thread without [taking] a backstitch; but one begins again with the new sewing one centimeter back from the place where the needle preceding finished. Over the length of about one centimeter the seam is thus made twice, and the two threads, the one which finishes and the one which begins, are crossed. That is sufficient for the stability of the work, and the seam remains very flat and very neat, -- which is essential in lingerie. Sometimes the madapolam which is glossy is hard to sew. The work ceases being difficult, if you soap with dry soap on the place where the needle will pass. Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com .
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Davince Tools Generated PDF File
    . ' \ VAUXHALL VICTOR I Canada's .Import ' THE DAILY NEWS No. 142 THE DAILY NEWS, ST. JOHN'S, NFLD., MONDAY, JUNE 20, 1960 (Price. 7 Cents) Charles Hutton &Sons President Eisenhower Receives Ecstatic Welcome In Seoul * · ·End !5 l.n Si~ht ,Demonstrating Crowds For K1sh1 Reg1me1Meet Him In Okinawa By GENE KRAMER 1 ratification documents on the new Kishi to drop out now. TOKYO TAP-The end is in' U.S.·Japan security alliance, pro- Masses of neutral-minded non- By John SCALI sight for the a•;,. year regime of· viding for U.S. bases in Japan for Communist workers, students and SEOUL, South Korea AP-A million cheering 1 Premier Nobusuke Kishi. at least another decade. intellectuals h a v t joined Red Koreans Sunday ecstatically welcomed President Eisen­ It may come next week or next' PLEDGE TO FULFIL demonstrati1ms because the dem- month or later, but the si~ns are: The 64-year-old premier him- i onstrations are, above ell. anti· how~r to Seoul-the final slop of his bobtailed Asian , there. • self says he will consider quitting . Kishi. good will tour. The greeting wos so intense his motor­ [ once he has fulfilled his pledge to! KISHI SCAPEGOAT Eve_n before _he was forced by sec the new treaty into force. The~ "Kishi has become a ~cape­ cade was sidetracked. i ~eft-wmg_ ag1tahon ,to c~n_cel r:1:es: exchange of documents· perhaps, goat," Shinoda Sf!id, "He has Eisenhower was fresh from on anti-American . 1dent F:1senhower s 1'1SJt, K1sh11 will be held June 27 or 28 in · taken on his· shoulders the hate demonstration in Okinawa, a stopover on his flight here ! was , slowly ?eing ~~s~rtcd by I Tokyo, .
    [Show full text]
  • Guide to the Preparation of an Area of Distribution Manual. INSTITUTION Clemson Univ., S.C
    DOCUMENT RESUME ID 087 919 CB 001 018 AUTHOR Hayes, Philip TITLE Guide to the Preparation of an Area of Distribution Manual. INSTITUTION Clemson Univ., S.C. Vocational Education Media Center.; South Carolina State Dept. of Education, Columbia. Office of Vocational Education. PUB DATE 72 NOTE 100p. EDRS PRICE MF-$0.75 HC-$4.20 DESCRIPTORS Business Education; Clothing Design; *Distributive Education; *Guides; High School Curriculum; Manuals; Student Developed Materials; *Student Projects IDENTIFIERS *Career Awareness; South Carolina ABSTRACT This semester-length guide for high school distributive education students is geared to start the student thinking about the vocation he would like to enter by exploring one area of interest in marketing and distribution and then presenting the results in a research paper known as an area of distribution manual. The first 25 pages of this document pertain to procedures to follow in writing a manual, rules for entering manuals in national Distributive Education Clubs of America competition, and some summary sheet examples of State winners that were entered at the 25th National DECA Leadership Conference. The remaining 75 pages are an example of an area of distribution manual on "How Fashion Changes Relate to Fashion Designing As a Career," which was a State winner and also a national finalist. In the example manual, the importance of fashion in the economy, the large role fashion plays in the clothing industry, the fast change as well as the repeating of fashion, qualifications for leadership and entry into the fashion world, and techniques of fabric and color selection are all included to create a comprehensive picture of past, present, and future fashion trends.
    [Show full text]
  • The Law, Culture, and Economics of Fashion
    THE LAW, CULTURE, AND ECONOMICS OF FASHION C. Scott Hemphill* & Jeannie Suk** INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................... 102! I. WHAT IS FASHION? ............................................................................................. 109! A. Status ........................................................................................................... 109! B. Zeitgeist ....................................................................................................... 111! C. Copies Versus Trends .................................................................................. 113! D. Why Promote Innovation in Fashion? ........................................................ 115! II. A MODEL OF TREND ADOPTION AND PRODUCTION ........................................... 117! A. Differentiation and Flocking ....................................................................... 118! B. Trend Adoption ............................................................................................ 120! C. Trend Production ........................................................................................ 122! III. HOW UNREGULATED COPYING THREATENS INNOVATION ............................... 124! A. Fast Fashion Copyists ................................................................................. 124! B. The Threat to Innovation ............................................................................. 128! 1. Harmful copying ..................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Turkish Women Traditional Underwear Clothes: Examples of Konya
    International Journal of Cultural and Social Studies (IntJCSS) June 2017 : 3(1) ISSN : 2458-9381 Doi : Field : Fashion Design Type : Research Article Recieved: 14.03.2017 – Accepted: 27.04.2017 Turkish Women Traditional Underwear Clothes: Examples of Konya Emine KARPUZ, Hatice HARMANKAYA Selcuk University, Art and Design Faculty, Konya, TURKEY Email: [email protected], [email protected] Abstract Traditional clothes are the concrete indications of the values of their periods. Traditional clothing bears variations in terms of their locations, usage goal and diversity. While in museums and collectors the traditional outer clothing takes too much place, to reach underwear clothes is harder. The aim of this research is to examine the underwear clothing products among conventional female clothing types of Konya. In the research the descriptive method was used. The subject matter of the study is the female under wear clothes of Konya, and the sample of it is 11 clothes pertaining to a special collection among these clothes. In the formation of the sample, the easily accessible state sampling method was used. The data of the research were got through the structured observation form. The underwear clothing examples included in the research were analyzed in terms of material, cut, sewing and ornamentation properties. The technical drawings of the measured clothes were made. It is considered that to research and bring to light the cultural heritage items taking place in special collections bear importance. Keywords: Konya, Traditional Underwear Clothing, Private Collection Copyright© IntJCSS (www.intjcss.com)- 116 K Uluslararası Kültürel ve Sosyal Araştırmalar Dergisi (UKSAD), Haziran, 2017; 3(1): 116-132 1.
    [Show full text]
  • Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, You Beautiful Doll, All Dressed in Denim — the Perfect Refrain for Frugal Fashion Girls Everywhere
    The Inside: Top Specialty Retailers Pg. 12 EXPLORING GHURKA OPTIONS/3 THE NEW VERSUS/11 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, you beautiful doll, all dressed in denim — the perfect refrain for frugal fashion girls everywhere. Resort is full of affordable denim in all shapes and styles. Here, Tyte’s stretch cotton jumpsuit, $17.50 at wholesale, worn with Star City’s cotton blouse, an Accessory Network belt, Juicy Couture earrings and Seychelles sandals. For more on the season’s best denim under $50, see pages 6 and 7. Postmortem on Rochas: Y DAVID YASSKY Y DAVID It Takes More Than Talent To Play Corporate Game By WWD Staff TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR BECCA;TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR STYLED B NEW YORK — Designers and brand owners /ARTIS must prioritize commercial, salable products over media glory. That’s among the chief lessons to be learned from Tuesday’s news that Procter & Gamble plans to shutter the Rochas fashion house despite PRIANO.COM; MAKEUP BY NAOMI MAKEUP BY PRIANO.COM; widespread acclaim for its designer, Olivier Theyskens, say observers. The move also underscores the increasing challenges for a luxury fashion label that hasn’t been able to diversify into other product categories BY DAVID MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHY DAVID BY successfully. In the past few seasons, Theyskens See Lessons, Page 13 EL: LISALLA/NEW MODELS; HAIR YORK PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MOD KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ The mix-and-match game is a fashion mainstay, especially with a lineup A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 of terrifi c denim pieces of the affordable sort, all less than $50 wholesale.
    [Show full text]
  • Close to the Skin: a Revealing Look at Lingerie
    Close to the Skin: A Revealing look at Lingerie Wedding gown House of Worth, France ca. 1878 Silk faille; silk embroidery; glass pearls; lace #67.446 Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) is considered the founder of haute couture. This early Worth creation illustrates his patronage by wealthy Americans, who had to travel to Paris to purchase their custom made dresses. Sarah Noyes Tibbets wore this dress when she married John Wool Griswold on January 15, 1878. Petticoat ca. 1878 Cotton #67.446c This petticoat was probably coordinated to go with the elaborate wedding gown by Charles Frederick Worth, made for Sarah Noyes Tibbett. The fineness of the cotton petticoat matches that of the gown. Pantaloons or drawers United States 1870s Plain weave light brown mixed fiber (silk, cotton, and/or wool) #57.920 Hoop skirt United States Ca. 1870 Steel springs; cotton twill tape No acc. # Hoop skirts could on occasion flip up, due to tripping or high wind. Pantaloons, or drawers, proved helpful in covering the legs if such a faux paus occurred. Corset R & G Corset Co. 1875-1900 White twill-weave cotton, lace, steel #67.591 Close to the Skin: A Revealing look at Lingerie Dress 1925-1930 Floral print silk chiffon with pink silk faille underdress. #59.379 Simpler, sheerer dresses in fashion in the 1920s often borrowed elements from undergarments. This example has a pink slip that is integral to the sheer overdress, including a matching printed hem that extends below the outer hemline. The edge of the wide collar is finished in a manner similar to fine lingerie.
    [Show full text]
  • The Dukes County Intelligencer, Fall 2010
    Journal of History of Martha’s Vineyard and the Elizabeth Islands THE DUKES COUNTY INTELLIGENCER VOL. 52, NO. 1 FALL 2010 WRECK & RESCUE: The Mertie B. Crowley by HERBERT R. WARD INVENTIVE ISLANDERS U.S. Patent Records Tell A Tale of Creativity by CHRIS BAER PLUS: Student Essays: Early Vineyard Medicine This advertisement for Luxemoor leather products, produced in Vineyard Haven, appeared in the 1905 edition of The Craftsman. Wrote the magazine: “‘Luxemoor’ leather is a genuine article of unquestioned artistic merit History on Main Street combined with exclusive decorative effects which cannot be obtained elsewhere.” (See story, page 15) The Remarkable Polly Hill From the Executive Director Membership Dues Student ..........................................$25 Following in the footsteps of the late Ann Allen (see below), the Individual .....................................$55 Museum has opened these pages to welcome the papers of students (Does not include spouse) assigned to research Island history. Family ...........................................$75 This is the second edition featuring student work and we are hopeful Sustaining ...................................$125 that this new tradition will become a fixture in the growing collaboration Patron .......................................$250 between the Museum and the Martha’s Vineyard Public Schools. Benefactor ..................................$500 One of the objectives of the Museum is to strengthen our relationship President’s Circle .....................$1000 with the schools, to have a more active participation in curriculum Memberships are development, and to be a greater resource for all grades and subjects. The tax deductible. Museum’s collections are an unparalleled asset to scholars of all ages and For more information on membership educational levels, and we especially enjoy having the youngest scholars levels and benefits, please visit delve into our archives.
    [Show full text]
  • Substantial Product Hazard List: Children's Upper Outerwear In
    UNITED STATES CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION 4330 EAST WEST HIGHWAY BETHESDA, MD 20814 VOTE SHEET Date: THIS MATTER IS NOT SCHEDULED FOR A BALLOT VOTE. A DECISION MEETING FOR THIS MATTER IS SCHEDULED ON: June 29, 2011. TO : The Commission Todd A. Stevenson, Secretary THROUGH: Kenneth R. Hinson, Executive Director Cheryl A. Falvey, General Counsel Philip L. Chao, Assistant General Counsel, RAD FROM : Barbara E. Little, Attorney SUBJECT : Substantial Product Hazard List: Children’s Upper Outerwear in Sizes 2T to 12 with Neck or Hood Drawstrings and Children’s Upper Outerwear in Sizes 2T to 16 with Certain Waist or Bottom Drawstrings; Final Rule The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 (“CPSIA”) added a new subsection (j) to section 15 of the Consumer Product Safety Act (“CPSA”). This new subsection gives the Commission authority to specify by rule for a consumer product or class of consumer products, characteristics whose presence or absence the Commission considers a substantial product hazard. Staff is forwarding to you a briefing package recommending that the Commission issue a final rule that designates children’s upper outwear in sizes 2T to 12, or the equivalent, with neck or hood drawstrings, and children’s upper outerwear in sizes 2T to 16, or the equivalent, with certain waist or bottom drawstrings, substantial product hazards under section 15(j) of the CPSA. (The proposed rule was published in the Federal Register on May 17, 2010.) We provide a draft final rule for your consideration. Please indicate your vote on the following options. I. Approve publication in the Federal Register of the draft final rule without change.
    [Show full text]
  • Thermal Insulation Characteristics of Sleepwear and Robes
    THERMAL INSULATION CHARACTERISTICS Of SLEEEWEAR AND RCBES by VIRGINIA MAY NOON B. S. Framingham State College, 1981 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1984 Approved by: tf^^rjn Majoij/o?/ PrProfessor LX> *J*** ( UllEDE b7ET35 N(c l TABLE OP CONTENTS c. z. Page LIST OF TABLES >i;Li LIST OF FIGURES \ #v ACKNOWLEDGMENTS v i CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION 1 Objectives 3 Definitions 4 Assumptions 4 . Limitations 4 2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 6 Introduction 6 Fabric Properties 6 Clothing Properties 10 Estimating Ensemble Insulation 13 3. METHODOLOGY 15 Independent and Dependent Variables 15 Garment and Fabric Selection... 15 Laboratory Procedures 23 Measurement of Clothing Insulation 27 Measurement of Clothing Area Factor 30 Measurement of Body Surface Area Covered 31 . 4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 34 Fabric Variations 34 Fabric Thickness/Insulation Relationship 36 Design Variations 38 Designs in Tricot. 38 Designs in Broadcloth. 39 Designs in Flannel .40 Designs in Velour 40 One of a Kind Items 40 Ensemble Data 41 Statistical Differences vs. Meaningful Differences 43 5 CONCLUSIONS 45 Recommendations for Further Study 46 BIBLIOGRAEHY 47 APEENDIX .51 Tables 6-32 52-78 li LIST OF TABLES TABLE Page 1. Thermal Conductivity of Fibers 7 2. Thermal Insulation Values of Blankets for Selected Gap Widths 11 3. Fabric Characteristics 24 4. Garment Characteristics for Sleepwear 25 5. Garment Characteristics for Robes 26 6. Analysis of Variance for Fabrics Constructed in a Long-sleeve/ Long Gown 52 7.
    [Show full text]
  • Diary of an Ardent Naturalist: Letters from Austin H. Clark to His Wife from the 1906 Research Cruise of the Steamer Albatross
    Diary of an Ardent Naturalist: Letters from Austin H. Clark to his Wife from the 1906 Research Cruise of the Steamer Albatross DAVID L. PAWSON and DORIS J. PAWSON Introduction in the Smithsonian Archives. We were siz (1913). Published accounts of early astonished to find among the papers deep-sea research cruises, based upon Austin Hobart Clark (1880–1954) the letters, noted above, from Clark on letters home, are rare. Perhaps the best was a marine biologist who specialized the Albatross to his wife Mary. Regret- of them, written by Charles Matkin in the study of echinoderms (sea stars tably, none of Mary Clark’s numerous and edited by Philip Rehbock (1992), and allies), but his broad research in- replies to her husband appear to have describes the cruise of the HMS Chal- terests led him to become an expert in survived. lenger from the point of view of a several animal groups. He was a Cu- Our interest in Clark’s personal and crew member. Austin Clark’s letters rator in the National Museum of Nat- professional life, and in the Albatross offer unique and fascinating insights ural History, Smithsonian Institution, (Fig. 1), was stimulated by this collec- into daily life on board the Albatross, Washington, D.C., from 1908 until his tion of letters, for they describe, in in- and they also reveal how his 7-month retirement in 1950, and a Research As- timate and gossipy detail, life aboard cruise helped to shape his life in sci- sociate until his death in late 1954. the vessel, interpersonal relationships, ence.
    [Show full text]
  • A History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R
    Bucknell University Bucknell Digital Commons Honors Theses Student Theses Spring 2012 The oM dernity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R. Goodman Bucknell University Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses Part of the History Commons Recommended Citation Goodman, Bithy R., "The odeM rnity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity" (2012). Honors Theses. 123. https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses/123 This Honors Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Theses at Bucknell Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Honors Theses by an authorized administrator of Bucknell Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. i ii iii Acknowledgments I would like to thank my adviser, David Del Testa, for his dedication to history as a subject and to my pursuits within this vast field. His passion and constant question of “So what?” has inspired me to think critically and passionately. Furthermore, he has helped me to always face the task of history with a sense of humor. Thank you to my secondary advisor and mentor, Paula Davis, who has always encouraged me to develop my own point of view. She has helped to me to recognize that my point of view is significant; for, having something to say, in whatever medium, is a creative process. Thank you to the History, Theater, and English Departments, which have jointly given me the confidence to question and provided me a vehicle through which to articulate and answer these questions.
    [Show full text]
  • Connecticut College News Vol. 27 No. 1
    Connecticut College Digital Commons @ Connecticut College 1941-1942 Student Newspapers 10-19-1941 Connecticut College News Vol. 27 No. 1 Connecticut College Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.conncoll.edu/ccnews_1941_1942 Recommended Citation Connecticut College, "Connecticut College News Vol. 27 No. 1" (1941). 1941-1942. 7. https://digitalcommons.conncoll.edu/ccnews_1941_1942/7 This Newspaper is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Newspapers at Digital Commons @ Connecticut College. It has been accepted for inclusion in 1941-1942 by an authorized administrator of Digital Commons @ Connecticut College. For more information, please contact [email protected]. The views expressed in this paper are solely those of the author. G? 2>1'6~I"'\{p .C--\G2Qr c.C Dc~\0.""\- 'm..,/ Iq"'A- ,. ONNECTICUT EWS Z86 OLLEGE Vol. 27-No. 1 lew Loudon, Connecticut, eduesday, 50 per Copy Noted Philosopher Thirty-nine ewMembersJoin To Be Lecturer At Faculty And Administration Important Appointments First Convocation Students To Tr)· Made In Almost Every Out For Fall Play Dr. Lowith, Professor, 'Trv-ours for the Fall Play, Department On Campus Author, Theologian, "Superstition," will be heid Along with new freshman faces Thursday, {:30-5 :30; Thurs- To Speak On Oct. 7 on campus, there are new faces day, 7 :30-8 :{5; Monday, among the faculty. According to Dr. Karl Lowirb, one of the 8: 15-9 :00, in speech room the fall announcement thir-ty-nine leading younger German philoso- 202, auditorium. new faculty and administrative ap- phers, will open the 19.P-.P con- Freshmen and transfers pointments and assignments have vocation series in Palmer Auditori- may not have speaking parts been made.
    [Show full text]