COSTA VERDE Their Owners Flooding in and Out
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[travel] he Green Coast stretches 350 miles from Rio de Janeiro to Santos and T promises stunning views. A vibrant, yet laid-back vibe and plenty of hidden surprises. We love Rio, but, admittedly, as our bus speeds away from the chaos that is Novo Rio bus station, a sigh of relief is taken. With the World Cup through and an Olympic Games on the horizon, the bus interchange and nearby port is a hive of activity, with workers digging up roads in the baking heat, dump trucks groaning under loads of rubble and the endless tumble of suitcases and COSTA VERDE their owners flooding in and out. We gaze through the bus window. Glimpses of favelas flash past; BRAZIL people living under sheets of iron next to the freeway. The ‘real’ Rio, WORDS CHRISTIAN TAYLOR some might say. Before too long the urban craziness gives way to the steep coastal mountains of the Atlantic Forest, wrapped around winding roads and shimmering blue seas. Finally, the reason they call it the ‘green coast’ becomes clear. We stop at Angra dos Reis, a town with the country’s busiest ferry port. In addition to being a transport hub for oil, the port also ships eager visitors to Ilha Grande – 80,000 hectares of forest-covered mountains fringed with stunning beaches and teeming with chic bars, restaurants and boutique hotels. After a 90 minute chug on the ferry, we land at Abraão, the island’s main town. It’s bigger than imagined, with a bustling 138 1 gaytimes.co.uk gaytimes.co.uk 1139 COSTA VERDE BRAZIL [09/14] POPULATION UNSPECIFIED SIZE UNDEFINED TIME ZONE DST (UTC-2) [travel] costa verde GAY LEGAL main street stretching along the the location is one of the best on this part of the town regularly flood, look out over the charming shoreline and a busy network of the island; it’s quiet, intimate and washing the passageways clean and cobblestone streets, others have dirt roads behind, creeping their romantic. Another waterside gem taking dirt and debris out to sea. views over the pool and the distant way towards the looming, mist- is Rei do Moqueca and their stew The younger crowd will love Praia mountains. The beds are divine, covered mountains. Pre-recorded made from fish. Simply divine. do Pontal, a small beach with shady with 600 thread count cotton Big Ben chimes mark the hour from In fact, there are loads of great trees just a short walk from town, sheets, romantic mosquito nets and the quaint local church. It’s the first bars and restaurants down the far where funky kiosks serve cheap irresistibly fluffy pillows. Breakfast thing you see when you land on end of the beach, a little walk away drinks and great food by the waters. is spectacular – fresh pastries, dark the island and, when you work in from the heart of the town. You pay For nature lovers, Paraty is coffee, fresh fruit salad, eggs made London, it’s strange to have each a little more to eat right by the sea, surrounded by rainforests, beaches to order, charming cakes, meats hour punctuated by the very same but it’s worth every penny. and waterfalls. Schooner boat tours and cheeses. You’re not likely to chimes associated with the gloom There are boat tours to the island’s are a popular way of seeing the eat again until the sun sets. If you and drizzle of the capital. various beaches during the day. islands and swimming spots. Or fall in love with the food, you can There are no cars allowed For active visitors there are plenty you can take a short bus trip to the buy their cookbook and try out the on Ilha Grande, except for one of hiking trails through the forest. nearby village of Penha. Here you’ll recipes at home. garbage truck, a fire engine and The walk to Cachoeira da Feiticeira find a river and waterfall buried During our stay, we were lucky a police vehicle. Anything heavy is a tourist favourite. The two hour among the trees. Enjoy the view enough to see the street outside is transported by clunky old round trip rewards walkers with a over the water from the rope bridge, submerged by the tide. Inside, buggies pushed by running groups refreshing dip in a forest waterfall. eat a hearty lunch in the great unique touches are everywhere restaurant on-site, and if you’re – from the turquoise coloured feeling daring, there’s a tall, steep cocktails on arrival to the hotel- rock face covered in slippery moss branded Havaianas that you’ll When people think which acts as a natural water slide. take away with you as a souvenir It’s hard to wipe the smile from your of your stay. We were particularly of Brazil, they face after trying it once – like being impressed with gifts left on our think of Rio. But a free-spirited five-year-old again! pillow each night, including We even saw some Brazilian kids ABOVE VIEW OVER chocolates, bottles of local cachaça the Costa Verde surfing on the rock; something that ABRAÃO, ILHA GRANDE BELOW FLOODED and Havaianas keyrings. It’s the is pure pleasure, requires much more balance and STREETS IN PARATY attention to detail that seduces you, skill than we ever mustered. and makes you feel truly at home. showcasing what When it comes to accommodation, When people think of Brazil, Brazil does best Casa Turquesa is definitely the best they often think of Rio. Yes, it’s hotel in the region. Named after a beautiful city, but it can be a the bright splashes of turquoise challenging place to wrap your that accentuate each room, Casa head around. On the other hand, of handsome, shirtless men. It There’s a natural swimming pool on Turquesa is a sophisticated, tranquil the Costa Verde is pure pleasure. certainly makes the passing traffic a the way too, along with the historic hideaway, rivalling some of Brazil’s If you’re visiting Rio anytime soon, lot more interesting. ruins of the quarantine hospital, finest hotels. This boutique property leave some time up your sleeve Here, eating and drinking become which was once a jail for political is comprised of nine rooms built for a visit to the Costa Verde. It’s an indulgent way to mark the easy prisoners. around a serene courtyard complete a great showcase of what Brazil passage of time. Lazy afternoon A few days on Ilha Grande is with plunge pool, lush gardens does best – blurring the line strolls spent perusing menus soon enough to recharge our batteries and shaded daybeds. Expect between indoors and outdoors, became a favourite part of our daily before we’re soon on the move unpretentious luxury, intimacy and bringing sophistication together routine. Café do Mar is a highlight again. We board the morning ferry the personal touch. with spectacular wilderness and – it’s just a short walk along the and a swift, hair-raising bus ride The hotel was originally a colonial reminding you that the best things main shoreline of Praia do Canto. further south to the colonial town of mansion from the 18th century in life are free. n With candles in the trees, we kick Paraty. until it was destroyed in a fire 30 back with our feet in the sand as This historical town really is years ago. Casa Turquesa has GT travelled with British Airways to Rio de Janeiro and Costa Verde Transportes to the waves lap so close they almost something special. History and quite literally risen from the ashes, Angra dos Reis and Paraty. GT stayed at touch us. With one eye on our food architecture buffs will adore retaining the style and beauty of the Casa Turquesa in Paraty. Rooms start from R$1,100 (£286) per night (casaturquesa. and one eye on the ocean, we sip strolling around the ancient centre, original building, but with many com.br). British Airways fly daily to Rio from our Caipirinhas and soak up the with its cobblestoned streets and stylish, luxurious additions. approx. £812 return (ba.com). Costa Verde Transportes buses operate regularly from music drifting across the bay. The dazzlingly white, well-preserved All rooms have plenty of natural Novo Rio bus station for approximately staff speak English, their food architecture. Due to Portuguese light, solid timber floors, exposed R$41 per person (£10) each way (costaverdetransportes.com.br). The ferry to and cocktails are excellent and design innovation, the streets in beams and lofty ceilings. Some Ilha Grande is R$4.50 (£1.20) 140 1 gaytimes.co.uk gaytimes.co.uk 1141.