In the Swiss Alps
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Go Slow … in the Swiss Alps Naturetrek Tour Report 1 - 8 July 2019 Alpine Salamander Campanula thyrsoides Androsace helvetica Trifolium alpinum Report and Images by Paul Harmes & Bruce Middleton Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Go Slow … in the Swiss Alps Tour participants: Paul Harmes & Bruce Middleton (leaders) with 12 Naturetrek clients Day 1 Monday 1st July Fly London – Zurich: Transfer to Mürren (Alt. 1650m) Eleven tour participants met Paul and Bruce at Heathrow Airport Terminal 5, for the 12.10pm British Airways flight BA714 to Zurich, arriving at 3pm. With passport control and baggage reclaim completed, we made our way into the Arrivals area, where we met up with Nola, who had arrived the previous day, and our coach driver, Adnan. Luggage was quickly loaded, and we set off for the two-and-a-half-hour journey to Stechelberg. We took a short comfort break at a motorway service area. Here, we recorded Red Kite, Common Buzzard and Raven, as well as Lepidium ruderale (Narrow-leaved Pepperwort). Upon our arrival at Stechelberg, we transferred to the cable car for the final leg of the journey up to the car-free village of Mürren, Where we were met by the porter from the Hotel Edelweiss, who transferred our luggage to our accommodation, whist the group took the 10-minute walk. At our hotel, we were met by our hosts, Sandra and Daniel, who soon settled us into our rooms before a late dinner and bed. Day 2 Tuesday 2nd July Allmendhubel (Alt. 1907m) On a bright, sunny morning, we left the hotel at 9.30am and made the short walk to the Allmendhubel Funicular railway. With tickets purchased, we took the five-minute ride up to the sub-alpine pastures and tracks of Allmendhubel. Along the way we saw Black Redstart, Alpine Chough and Chaffinch. As we emerged from the station building, we set about exploring the alpine meadows, Crocus vernus (Spring Crocus) in both purple and white forms, Soldanella alpina (Alpine Snowbell). As we slowly worked our way across the landscape, we added Primula elatior (Oxlip), Gentiana acaulis (Trumpet Gentian), Homogyne alpina (Purple Colt’s- foot) Silene dioica (Red Campion), Potentilla aurea (Golden Cinquefoil), Geum montanum (Mountain Avens) and Gypsophila repens (Alpine Gypsophila). In addition, we also found Ring Ouzel, Nutcracker, Crested Tit and Alpine Chough, and Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Geranium Argus, Swallowtail and Painted Lady butterflies, together with the Geometrid Psodos quadrifaria and Common Heath moths. We now found ourselves some benches, where our leaders set up our picnic lunch. During the meal, some plants in a flowerbed by the station building, produced the all-brown, alpine form of Purple-edged Copper [eurydame]. After lunch, some of the group set off explore an area to the north, which leads to the lower section of the Shilthorn track. Along the way we added Mountain Green-veined White, Small Tortoiseshell, Painted Lady, Small Blue, Large Blue [f. obscura] and Orange Tip butterflies. Some rock ledges produced Kernera saxatilis (Kernera), Selaginella selaginoides (Lesser Clubmoss), Paradisea liliastrum (St. Bruno’s Lily), Erinus alpinus (Fairy Foxglove), Gentiana brachyphylla (Small-leaved Gentian), and Primula auricula (Bear's-ear Primrose), and the adjacent meadows had good numbers of Viola lutea (Mountain Pansy) and Ranunculus aconitifolius (Aconite-leaved Buttercup). In the margins of the wet track, we found Linaria alpina (Alpine Toadflax) © Naturetrek January 20 11 Go Slow … in the Swiss Alps Tour Report It was now time to make our way back down to join the rest of the group for afternoon refreshments in the refugio, before taking the funicular back down to Mürren. Day 3 Wednesday 3rd July Wengen (Alt. 1274m) – Mannlichen (Alt. 2222m) It dawned cloudy but bright, and after breakfast we set off for Mürren Station. As we went, we noted Phyteuma spicatum (Spiked Rampion) and Rumex alpinus (Monk's Rhubarb), as well as a Serin and Black Redstart, and heard Garden Warbler. We caught the 9.43am train to Grutschalp, and the cable car down to Lauterbrunan. Here we caught the shuttle train to Wengen. Upon our arrival in the village, we made our way to the cable car station, for Mannlichen. At the top, we set off to explore, taking the Royal Walk route up to the viewpoint. Once again, we found large quantities of Crocus vernus (Spring Crocus), Anemone narcissiflora (Narcissus-flowered Anemone), Aster alpinus (Alpine Aster) and scattered Soldanella alpina (Alpine Snowbell). Common Swift, and Water Pipit were active, and there were occasional 'fly-bys' from Alpine Chough, Raven and Carrion Crow, in addition to Dewy Ringlet butterflies. At about the halfway point to the viewpoint, we began to add more plant species. Primula elatior (Oxlip), Primula farinosa (Bird's-eye Primrose), Anemone vernalis (Spring Pasqueflower), Androsace chamaejasme (Ciliate Rock-jasmine), Pedicularis verticillata (Whorled Lousewort), Dryas octopetala (Mountain Avens), Gymnadenia austriaca (a Vanilla Orchid), Gentiana verna (Spring Gentian) and Silene acaulis (Moss Campion) were all seen. As most of the group members who had wanted to visit the viewpoint, had done so, our leaders set up our picnic, which was enjoyed in the breezy sunshine with stunning views. After eating, we began our descent, finding Ranunculus kuepferi (Kuepfer's Buttercup) and Ranunculus alpestris (Alpine Buttercup), before we made our way to the refugio for refreshments. After this we took a look at the Kleine Scheidegg path, where we were entertained by the aerial display of a family of White-winged Snowfinch and occasional close views of Water Pipit. Around our feet on the margins of the melting snow patches, we found numerous Soldanella alpina (Alpine Snowbell) and scattered Gagea bohemica (Hollow-stemmed Yellow Star-of-Bethlehem) and Crocus vernus (Spring Crocus). At this point most of the group members, with Bruce rejoined the cable car back Wengen, where they retraced their steps back to Mürren. The remaining small number of group members joined Paul to walk to Kleine Scheidegg. The path, Abfahrt 8, affords wonderful views across the valley eastwards to Grindelwald and south to the Eiger. Along the way we encountered a good number of plants we had not seen during the morning. There included, Polystichum lonchitis (Holly Fern), Hieracium villosum (Shaggy Hawkweed), Veronica fruticans (Rock Speedwell), Pinguicula alpina (Alpine Butterwort), Valeriana montana (Mountain Valerian), Vaccinium vitis-idaeus (Cowberry), Saxifraga androsacea (Scree Saxifrage), Doronicum grandiflorum (Large-flowered Leopard’s-bane), Hypochaeris uniflora (Giant Cat’s-ear), Saxifraga paniculata (Livelong Saxifrage) and Phyteuma betonicifolia (Betony- leaved Rampion) among them. When we arrived at the station at Kliene Scheidegg, we were in good time for the train back to Lauterbrunen and Mürren. 2 Go Slow … in the Swiss Alps Tour Report Day 4 Thursday 4th July Shilthorn - Piz Gloria (Alt. 2970m)) - Birg – ‘Thrill Walk’ (Alt. 2677m)) - Mürren (Walk) Our morning began with a cable-car ride up to the Shilthorn, via Birg. It was a clear, bright morning, and the sun was shining. As we walked through the village to the cable-car station, Chaffinch, House Sparrow and Blackbird were noted, as well as Swallowtail and Yellow-spotted Ringlet [f. pyrrhula] butterflies. The Shilthorn Cable car station houses the famous James Bond Museum, as this site was the location for a famous battle scene in the original movie ‘On Her Majesty's Secret Service’. However, they also have regular visits from Bearded Vultures, which they feed bones; unfortunately, not today. The cloudless sky afforded us magnificent views in every direction, from the viewing platform, before we followed the path through the rough, boulder-strewn mountainside. Here we found Saxifraga exarata subsp. moschata (Musky Saxifrage), Saxifraga oppositifolia (Purple Saxifrage), Androsace helvetica (Swiss Rock-jasmine), Androsace alpina (Alpine Rock-jasmine) and carpets of Ranunculus glacialis (Glacier Crowfoot). After our stroll and museum visit, for those who wished to, we sat down to brunch in the Piz Gloria Restaurant. After eating, we descended to Birg. One or two of the group continued down to Mürren, to prepare for an afternoon walk. The remaining group members took the opportunity to take the 'Thrill Walk' at Birg. On the cable car descent, a solitary Alpine Ibex was spotted on a distant ridge. The ‘Thrill Walk’, is a steel walkway bolted to the cliffs below the cable car station. Again, the views were spectacular, and we found some nice alpine plant species. These included Androsace helvetica (Swiss Rock-jasmine), Veronica aphylla (Leafless-stemmed Speedwell), Leucanthemum atratum (Saw-leaved Moon Daisy), Androsace chamaejasme (Ciliate Rock-jasmine), Campanula cochlearifolia (Fairy’s-thimble), Cerastium latifolium (Broad-leaved Mouse-ear), Hornungia alpina (Chamois- cress), Persicaria vivipara (Alpine Bistort) and two plants of the white-flowered form of Gentiana verna (Spring Gentian). We also had wonderful views of the aerobatic skills of a Golden Eagle, as well as hearing Skylark. We now continued down the cable car to Mürren, and the group re-convened outside the Hotel Edelweiss, for a leisurely stroll along the track north from Mürren towards Winteregg, which runs alongside the railway. It was, by now, raining quite persistently, but we set off in search of things of interest. The trackside woodland produced, Persicaria bistorta (Bistort), Astrantia major (Great Masterwort), three species of Phyteuma, P. orbiculare (Round-headed Rampion), P. betonicifolia (Betony-leaved Rampion) and P. spicatum (Spiked Rampion), Dactylorhiza fuchsii (Common Spotted-orchid), five species of Sedum, S. dasyphyllum (Thick-leaved Stonecrop), S. hispanicum (Spanish Stonecrop), S. rupestre (Large Yellow Stonecrop), S. album (White Stonecrop) and S. forsterianum (Rock Stonecrop), and Hepatica nobilis (Hepatica) for the plants. However, little else was active given the inclement weather.