africa Travel Magazine
The Smiling Coast Gambia hosts ATA Pro les of other African countries. Includes chapter from new book on Timbuktu
Africa Travel Magazine 1 Photo by Karen Hoffman ATA IN REVIEW by Jerry W. Bird, Editor and Publisher
This Yearbook Edition starts in Ban- jul, The Gambia at the Africa Travel Association 35th Annual Congress, where a new ATA President, Hon. Fatou Mass Jobe-Njie, (above) WDNHVRI¿FHDQGFRQFOXGHVZLWKD chapter from “To Timbuktu for a Haircut” by Rick Antonson. As Rick relates his present day journey through West Africa, he recalls the WULDOVDQGWULEXODWLRQVRI¿YHH[SORU- ers who came here between 1795 and 1855. The map on the opposite page traces the routes taken by Mungo Park, Robet Adams, Gordon Laing, Rene Caillie and Heinrich Barth. 2XUÀLJKWIURP-).,QWHUQDWLRQDO Airport in New York was a joy - thanks to Arik Airlines who treated our ATA media group with tender loving care. A special thanks to our host Bob Brunner, Arik’s North American manager. During an over- night stop in Lagos, Nigeria, we visited Arik headquarters and were (1) Editor at James Island, near Banjul, a remnant of the West African slave treated to dinner and an overnight trade. (2) New ATA President, Hon. Fatou Mass Jobe-Njie, The Gambia Minister VWD\DWWKH3URWHD+RWHO,NHMD of Tourism and Culture with Edward Bergman, ATA Executive Director. Gambia proved to be a gracious host. $7$GHOHJDWHVHQMR\HGUHOD[LQJ .LQWH'HOHJDWH cruises on the great river from and media group which the country’s name is and guest activi- derived. This brought to mind ties also included an initial goal of our two travel a trip to President magazines - the combination of -DPPHK¶VKRPH Air and Marine Tourism. Both village, and Abuko topics were covered by speaker Nature Park, with Lelei LeLaulu, who provided its museum and much food for thought. Speak- crocodile pool. Our ing of food, West African last visit was to cuisine was in the forefront, as Makasutu Cultural H[HPSOL¿HGE\RXUWZR&X- )RUHVWVLWHRID linary Superstars - Gambian unique ecological Ida Chiam, the attractive lady resort, relatively on our magazine’s cover, and new and becom- Niche Market panelist Pierre ing popular with Thiam, owner of Le Grand Da- visitors including kar Restaurant and author of a honeymooners. cookbook Yolele, Recipes from There’s much more the Heart of Senegal. to talk about -- so 7KH¿UVWRIP\7RXULVP0LQ- why not turn the LVWHU,QWHUYLHZVLVZLWKHon. UHPDLQVRI)RUW-DPHVVODYHSRVW page and discover Baba Hamadou of Cameroon, WKHQFURVVHGWKHULYHUWR-XIIXUHK our impressions of The Gambia, who positioned his country on $OH[+DOH\¶VDQFHVWUDOKRPH ATA and the people we love to the world stage in terms of trav- now housing a small museum write about. el and tourism. Cameroon has on the Slave Trade in the Sen- Photos: Edward Bergman, ATA been a solid supporter of ATA egambia region. Haley is author Executive Director (left) and during our 15 years as publish- of ‘Roots,’ a best selling book dignitaries from The Gambia and ers. Another rock solid supporter DQG79VHULHVIHDWXULQJ.XQWD other Africa member countries is Hon. Shamsa Mwanguna, celebrate this suc- Tanzania’s Minister cessful event. For of Natural Re- more information sources and Tour- on Gambia Tour- ism, who presided ism and the Africa at the Board’s 10th Travel Association, Annual Awards and visit our webistes - gala evening. www.africa-ata.org Area Tours and www.africa- We paid a brief travelassociation. YLVLWWR-DPHV org ,VODQGDQGWKH Visitors are welcomed to the village of Juffureh, home of Kunta Kinte and ancestral home of Alex Haley, author of 5RRWV$ÀRZHUWRVVLQJFHUHPRQ\DW-DPHV,VODQGRQWKH Gambia River recalls the days of slave trading along the coast. See a scale model of the reconstructed fort, which is now a World Heritage site.
?9E:A9K9QKE9FQ@9HHQJ=LMJFKLG9>JA;9KK9>=KL$EGKL>JA=F 4 Africa Travel Magazine ?9E:A9K9QKE9FQ@9HHQJ=LMJFKLG9>JA;9KK9>=KL$EGKL>JA=F Africa Travel Magazine 5 ATA ANNOUNCES TOURISM INDUSTRY MILESTONES REACHED AT ITS 35TH ANNUAL CONGRESS %$1-8/ 7KH$IULFD7UDYHO press from Africa, Europe and host of this event and hopes that Association’s 35th Annual Con- 1RUWK$PHULFDQ,QKHUFORVLQJ our infectious spirit will inspire gress ended with a commitment remarks, the Minister highlighted other countries and tourism stake- among Africa’s the importance holders to take action.” tourism stakehold- of tourism as an Record of achievements ers to boost efforts engine for eco- At the meeting, ATA announced a to develop new nomic growth number of milestones for making public-private part- and prosperity. a strong case for increased invest- nerships devoted She also said, ment in Africa’s tourism industry. to advocating for “This may mark “ATA members and friends and and developing the the end of a suc- supporters have shown that we tourism industry in cessful event, but are truly committed to promoting Africa. Honorable it also marks the tourism to Africa as a means to )DWRX0DVV-REH beginning of our promoting socio-economic devel- Njie, The Gambia Minister of joint efforts to work in partner- opment,” said Edward Bergman, Tourism and Culture and incom- ship with the public and private $7$([HFXWLYH'LUHFWRU³,NQRZ ing ATA President, closed the sector to promote the travel and that when we return to our home event that was attended by more tourism industry to and within countries, we will continue to than 300 participants as well as Africa. The Gambia was a proud work in partnership with tourism 6 Africa Travel Magazine ATA ANNOUNCES TOURISM INDUSTRY MILESTONES REACHED AT ITS 35TH ANNUAL CONGRESS stakeholders in the public and tions undertake a commitment to Variety of workshops private sectors to promote the develop collaboration in the area During the industry workshops industry and inspire others to fol- of travel and tourism promotion. and networking events, ATA and ORZRXUH[DPSOH´ The launch of a joint effort by 81:72HQJDJHGLQGLVFXVVLRQV Key milestones 1HZ Africa Travel Magazine 9 9L9<=D=?9L=K;GE:AF=:MKAF=KKOAL@HD=9KMJ=AF9;@A=NAF?9J=;GJ<G>KM;;=KKAFLGMJAKE Association, and other Gambian stake- UNWTO and ATA Discuss especially pleased that this discus- holders, including private and public Ways to Cooperate with sion takes place in parallel to our sector members of the ATA Chapter in Tourism Development GLVFXVVLRQVZLWKWKH$IULFD8QLRQ The Gambia. 7KH8QLWHG1DWLRQV7RXULVP2UJD- on how we can promote travel, ³$VDPHPEHUVWDWHRI81:72DQGDV nization attended the Africa Travel tourism and hospitality to “Destina- member of ATA, The Gambia is putting Association’s 35th Annual Congress at tion Africa.” forth a strong proposal for the develop- the Sheraton Hotel Spa and Resort in Public & Private Coopera- ment of joint collaboration between The Gambia from May 17-20, 2010. tion the two organizations,” said Permanent More than 300 participants from Africa, 0U+HOGHU7RPDVIURPWKH81- Secretary of the Ministry of Tourism Europe and North America, as well as WTO Regional Program for Africa DQG&XOWXUH.DOLED6HQJKRUH the press, also attended the travel trade participated in the event on behalf conference. RI81:72+HDUULYHGLQ7KH African Union New Tourism During the industry plenaries and Gambia immediately following Direction ,VVXHG0D\ QHWZRUNLQJHYHQWV$7$DQG81:72 WKHWK81:72&RPPLVVLRQIRU 7KH$IULFDQ8QLRQLQUHFRJQLWLRQRI engaged in discussions on how the two Africa Meeting in Algiers, Algeria the Continent’s need for a more cohe- global organizations would pursue col- from May 17-19, 2010. VLYHH[HFXWLRQRILWVWRXULVPSROLF\KDV laboration and cooperation in the areas Mr. Tomas stressed the importance VLJQHGD028ZLWKWKH$IULFD7UDYHO of travel and tourism development in of the cooperation between the pub- Association (ATA) during the 35th ATA Africa in the future. lic and the private sectors for the World Congress held in Banjul, The $7$([HFXWLYH'LUHFWRU(GZDUG%HUJ- development of tourism in Africa *DPELD7KH028FDOOVIRU$IULFDQ PDQVDLG³:HDUHSOHDVHGWKDW81:- and the need for the sector to start 8QLRQ&RPPLVVLRQ $8& DQG$7$ TO participated in our Gambia congress speaking with one voice for the to work together to advance Africa’s and we look forward to continuing EHQH¿WRIWKHLQGXVWU\ DJHQGDZLWKLQWKH1(3$'FRQWH[WRI GLVFXVVLRQVZLWKWKH81DJHQF\RQKRZ The ATA Congress was hosted by WKH$8&7RXULVP$FWLRQ3ODQDGGUHVV- to build a case for tourism in Africa.” The Gambian Ministry of Tourism ing following areas: Mr. Bergman went on to say “We are and Culture, the Gambian Hotel • Creation of an enabling policy and 10 Africa Travel Magazine 9L9<=D=?9L=K;GE:AF=:MKAF=KKOAL@HD=9KMJ=AF9;@A=NAF?9J=;GJ<G>KM;;=KKAFLGMJAKE regulatory environment; the major airlines, hotel groups, tour /H/DXOX)RXQGHUDQG3UHVLGHQW6HQ- ,QVWLWXWLRQDOFDSDFLW\EXLOGLQJ operators and front-line travel agents sible Development Corps; Chair of the • Promotion of tourism marketing; serving or having operations in or with Leadership Council of George Wash- • Promotion of research and develop- Africa worldwide. LQJWRQ8QLYHUVLW\¶V6FKRRORI%XVLQHVV ment; ,QDQDGGLWLRQDOGHYHORSPHQWRIHVWDE- Department of Tourism and Hospitality • Promotion of investments in tourism lishing a cohesive Africa tourism direc- Management; Alvin Rosenbaum, Senior infrastructure and products; tion and in an effort of establishing as Advisor for CDC Development Solu- 0RELOL]DWLRQRI¿QDQFLDOUHVRXUFHV many tourism economies within the 53 tions, and R.S.Mracky of the Africa • Establishment of code of conduct and $86WDWHV$7$ZHOFRPHGWKH8QLWHG Consult Group. ethics for tourism; and Nations World Tourism Organization $7$([HFXWLYH'LUHFWRU(GZDUG%HUJ- • Strengthening of human resources and 81:72 SUHVHQFHDQGGHOLEHUDWLRQ man in heralding the 35th ATA Con- quality assurance. contributions at the Congress. gress and its accomplishments, made a 7KHVLJQDWRU\IRU$8&ZDVWKH+RQRU- Action Plan strong case for increased investment in DEOH'U(OKDP0$,EUDKLP&RP- These developments are designed to Africa’s tourism industry, and for Africa PLVVLRQHU,QIUDVWUXFWXUH (QHUJ\2Q crystallize and mainstream tourism into tourism and travel stakeholders to join EHKDOIRI$7$WKH028ZDVVLJQHGE\ WKHLQGLYLGXDO$86WDWHV¶HFRQRPLHV the ATA new efforts and responsibili- the ATA President, the Honorable Mrs. and encourage greater collaboration ties: “ATA members and friends and Shamsa S. Mwanguanga, Minister of between government and industry on supporters have shown that we are truly Natural Resources and Tourism of the PDUNHWLQJSODQQLQJDQGH[HFXWLRQRI committed to promoting tourism to 8QLWHG5HSXEOLFRI7DQ]DQLD WKH$8&7RXULVP$FWLRQ3ODQ Africa as a means to promoting socio- HFRQRPLFGHYHORSPHQW,NQRZWKDW Dedicated to Africa To operationally respond to these new ATA since its inception in 1975 has $7$UHVSRQVLELOLWLHVWKH$7$,QWHU- when we return to our home countries, represented Africa’s public and private national Board of Directors has been we will continue to work in partner- WRXULVPVHFWRUVPDQ\RIWKH$86WDWHV supplemented by several high-level ship with tourism stakeholders in the are members of ATA, together with international tourism and economic public and private sectors to promote their national tourism boards, as are all GHYHORSPHQWH[SHUWVQRWDEO\/HOHL the industry and inspire others to follow RXUH[DPSOH´ Africa Travel Magazine 11 TRANSPORTATION PLAYS A KEY ROLE ON THE ATA CONGRESS AGENDA capitals -- and were further transporting Africa’s goods and H[DFHUEDWHGE\WKH(DVW:HVW services to global markets, many divisions of the Cold War.” of our economies will wallow “These route systems have in the backwaters of the world rarely served Africa’s real economy.” needs -- and as a result going LeLaulu, also chairman of the from West to East on the con- Leadership Council of George tinent often requires transiting :DVKLQJWRQ8QLYHUVLW\¶V7RXULVP through a European capital,” he and Hospitality Management De- observed. partment in the School of Busi- “Africa will not develop its full ness, urged African governments potential until these remnants of to proactively support airlines colonialism and the Cold War serving the continent with subsi- are sorted out,” added LeLaulu, dies, “and by buying large blocks who is also an advisor to CDC of airplane seats for government Development Solutions. travelers, in advance.” LeLaulu who was involved in ³,QWHUQDWLRQDOGRQRUVOLNHWKH Support African setting up sustainable tourism :RUOG%DQN,QWHUQDWLRQDO0RQ- Airlines Urges projects in Africa, Latin America HWDU\)XQGDQGELODWHUDOVXSSRUW- Development and the Caribbean, urged that ers understand, and respond to, Expert “airline transport systems in infrastructural needs and there Banjul: Africa’s airline systems Africa be recognized as integral is none more in need than aerial were branded “colonial and cold parts of infastructure -- just like highways,” opined LeLaulu. war remnants” stunting the conti- terrestrial highways, causeways About African Travel nent’s progress by a development and bridges.” Association (ATA) specialist who called on African ³,QIUDVWUXFWXUHLVHVVHQWLDOO\D The Africa Travel Association governments to urge international means of sharing the wealth - was established as an interna- donors to actively support Afri- - and that is precisely why air- tional travel industry trade asso- ca’s airline industry. lines should be treated as Aerial ciation in 1975 to promote travel, Speaking to the African Travel Highways sharing the burgeoning tourism and transport to and Association Congress, which global tourism drew ministers and some 300 receipts with delegates to the capital of The the continent,” Gambia, Lelei LeLaulu, co-chair- he asserted. PDQRI,QQRYDWLRQIRU6XVWDLQ- )XUWKHUPRUH able Development Centre, said cautioned the current airline route systems LeLaulu, “were designed by former colo- “without aer- QLDOSRZHUVWRÀ\$IULFD¶VULFKHV ial highways DQGH[SDWULRWVWRWKHLUFRORQLDO 12 Africa Travel Magazine TRANSPORTATION PLAYS A KEY ROLE ON THE ATA CONGRESS AGENDA “Come and Join within Africa, and to strengthen intra-Africa partnerships. ATA provides services to a broad our Customized range of members including: tourism, diaspora, culture, and sports ministers, tourism boards, airlines, hoteliers, travel agents, tour opera- Tours of Exotic WRUVWUDYHOWUDGHPHGLDSXEOLFUHODWLRQV¿UPV FRQVXOWLQJFRPSDQLHVQRQSUR¿WRUJDQL]DWLRQV West Africa.” businesses, small and medium-sized enterpris- es, and other organizations engaged in tourism promotion. About Innovation for Sustainable Development Centre (ISDC) ,QQRYDWLRQIRU6XVWDLQDEOH'HYHORSPHQWLV DQRQSUR¿W86FRPSDQ\ZKLFKLVIRFXVHG Come !y to Timbuktu and back again! on sustainable businesses, communities and Our Mali-based company specializes in HQYLURQPHQW,WVREMHFWLYHLVWREHDFDWDO\VW Cultural and Adventure programs in facilitating sustainability and carbon neutrality through learning, dialog, innovation, research, Mali, Senegal, Gambia, Burkina, Togo, investment and partnership amongst cross-sec- Niger, Benin and Ghana. tor tourism stakeholder players. The focus is WR¿QGFRPPRQJURXQGVWKDWPHHWWKHVWDNH- holders’ interests and facilitate the implemen- Owner-guided tours by Mariama tation of their initiatives and investments that Ludovic de Lys trace the history and foster responsible tourism related job creation, mystery of West Africa - o"ering expe- trade, preservation of culture and environment, and enhancing the economy of disadvantaged riences of a lifetime! communities. Tourism stakeholders from JRYHUQPHQW1*2WUDYHO WRXULVPLQGXVWULHV ¿QDQFLDOVHFWRUDFDGHPLDFRPPHUFH WUDGH IDFLOLWLHV LQIUDVWUXFWXUHGHYHORSPHQW,7 FRPPXQLFDWLRQVDQGVFLHQFH PHGLFLQHKDYH Bako - Djicoroni ACI BP E1642 the opportunity to interact and learn through Bamako / Mali global online communities and forums, as well as in person events Tel: (221) 77 510 15 58 or (223) 20 28 8157Fax: (223) 20 28 52 32 )RUIXUWKHULQIRUPDWLRQ Contact: Peter Simons, press@innovation4sus- tainabledevelopment.org E-Mai: [email protected] www.touringmali.com Africa Travel Magazine 13 WEST AFRICAN COOPERATION URGED ON MARINE TOURISM. A HUGE OPPORTUNITY AWAITS from the Caribbean experience Introduction by Cruises to Alaska. In my late teens I, worked aboard the paddle where cruise lines have built their Jerry W. Bird own destinations with beaches, As founders of wheeler SS Keno on the fabled shops and touristic activities the successful Yukon River system. Together we where infrastructure was absent,” Air and Marine can give you some sound advice stated LeLaulu, a director of the Tourism Confer- based on experience. Caribbean Media Exchange for HQFHÀUVWKHOG If you have news of a cruise ex- Sustainable Tourism (CMEx), in Vancouver, perience e-mail: airhwy@smartt. who admitted marine and cruise BC, Canada in com. For information on our tourism can be good for Africa if 1997, we are previous Air and Marine Con- managed sustainability. proud to pres- ference visit www.airhighways. Speaking to reporters at Senegal’s ent the following article by Le- com/air&marine.htm ÀUVW´6DORQ7,&&$µVKRZFDV- lei LeLaulu, a regular speaker ing tourism, cultural industries at African Travel Association West Africa Comments and art from Africa, LeLaulu, an events. Africa Travel Magazine by Leili Lelaulu adviser to the Africa Travel As- is a strong supporter of Marine DAKAR: Senegal sociation, said the Gambian River Tourism and our Air Highways and The Gambia “should be developed to enhance Magazine of Open Skies has been should invest the tourism offerings of the West DFWLYHVLQFH 2XUJUDQGH[- more in develop- African region.” perience on Moevenpick’s Royal ing marine tour- “For example, you should be Lily following the ATA 34th ism, together, be- DEOHWRÁ\IURPWKHKHDUWRIWKH World Congress in Cairo featured fore the big cruise ancient desert kingdom of Tim- in our Northern Africa Yearbook lines increase buktu, in Mali, onto a traditional, Edition. arrivals in West Africa, urged a RUPRGHUQÀVKLQJERDWDQGVDLO VIsit Africa’s Exotic development expert. “Once the big cruise companies between Dakar and Banjul in a Ports matter of hours,” asserted Le- During her career as a Travel start sailing into West Africa - Laulu, who also advises CDC Agent in Tahiti, Muguette Gou- which they will because of rising Development Solutions, a Wash- frani, our Associate Editor, fuel prices and the need for fresh ington DC agency which links worked for Matson Lines. Later, destinations,” predicted Lelei tourism to business development visiting West Africa on a cruise LeLaulu, co-chairman of Inno- in several African countries. from Europe along the Gold vation for Sustainable Develop- Coast and Ivory Coast, she ended ment Centre, “if there are no up working there for several local arrangements for their years. Ms. Goufrani’s views on passengers, they are likely Cruising Africa will appear in to build their own on-shore this section and in print. She lives facilities, thereby decreasing in Vancouver, BC, Canada, one cruise revenues for the host RIWKHZRUOG·VÀQHVWSRUWVDQG countries.” center of the famous Love Boat “West Africa should learn 14 Africa Travel Magazine WEST AFRICAN COOPERATION URGED ON MARINE TOURISM. A HUGE OPPORTUNITY AWAITS The marine, river and coastal seafood delight.” LeLaulu also hours for those wanting to avoid assets of West Africa offered urged more marine transporta- driving to and from airports for “huge opportunities for multi-day tion: “there are high-speed boats WKHVKRUW'DNDU%DQMXOÁLJKWµ cruises which both Senegal and in Senegal and Gambia which Photo (left): Tahitian Princess The Gambia can jointly develop can ferry passengers between the cruise ship, Banjul, The Gambia - there are well over 500 spe- two West African capitals in two cies of birds and an abundance of wild- life to draw visitors to the river and its many waterways,” he opined. “Gambian and Sen- egalese companies have the means to re- ally turn the Gambian River into an attrac- tive destination - it has rich human assets with several culturally distinct peoples shar- ing the waterway, as well as the architec- tural heritage of the Portuguese, French and English colonial periods,” LeLaulu as- serted. “And for those yearn- ing for the fruits of the deep, it has some RIWKHEHVWÀVKLQJRQ the continent, with record deep water catches recorded off the West African coast,” he reported, “while the Gambian river delta and water- ways boast a cook’s Africa Travel Magazine 15 16 Africa Travel Magazine A WELCOME VISIT TO THE MAKASUTU CULTURAL FOREST NEAR BANJUL Photos: 1. Gordon LaiHein, the name is a Mandinka word, which translates into English, as “Holy For- est”. There is a history to this dwelling. Legend has it that tribal wars took place in this forest centuries ago. A particular King was also killed here, and his head, crown and throne were all buried in the forest. 2. Cruise ship visits the port of Banjul, proof of the vast potential for sea cruises in this friendly, accommodat- ing country. Our popular professional guide from the Gambia Welcoming Committee made our travels a pleasure during and following host country day. Africa Travel Magazine 17 PIERRE THIAM PRESENTS HIS AUTHENTIC WESTERN AFRICA CULINARY DELIGHTS AT THE ATA CONGRESS ,QWURGXFWLRQE\-HUU\:%LUG considered a vital component of the Taste of Chicago brought in a record WRXULVPH[SHULHQFH Dining out is PLOOLRQSHRSOH Meeting Pierre common among tourists and food ,QEULHIWKHSURGXFWLVULSHEXWLQ Thiam (left) at the is believed to rank very high in the case of Africa certain challenges ATA 35th Annual importance to tourists. need to be addressed. Congress was a Many countries have developed Challenges highlight of my a niche based on their traditional 2XU¿UVWFKDOOHQJHLVWKHVWLJPD Gambia visit and cuisines. that Africa carries, especially when the start of a long )UDQFHLVWKHREYLRXVH[DPSOH it comes to food. Westerners are term friendship. Whenever the country’s name is used to the image of the starving What an inspiration mentioned one cannot help but African. Once, during a radio he is to those of us who want to WKLQNDERXWJRRGIRRG,WKDV interview, an NPR journalist told me see authentic African foods earn VHWDQH[DPSOHDQGRWKHUVKDYH of how shocked she was when she their proper place in the culinary successfully followed its steps. read my book and saw the images world. The following is from his ,WDO\WRSVWKHOLVWZLWKGLIIHUHQW of delicious and abundant food presentation on Niche Markets. cuisines in each region and towns because in her own words, when Above photos: 1. Caldou seafood famed for their special ingredient or people think of Africa, they think of 2. Blakeye Pea Salad 3. Chicken GLVK-DSDQHVH&KLQHVHDQG,QGLDQV scarcity. Yassa 4. Duck 5. Rice Pudding to name a few have cuisines that A recent NY Times article titled 6. Avocado Mango Salad. 7. are drawing very diverse crowds. “in Epicurean NY the challenge of ThiebouJenn ,QIDFWLW¶VKDUGWRYLVLWVRXWKHUQ Africa” (7/09) quotes a respected (XURSH6($VLD-DSDQRU0H[LFR food critic saying that ‘Africans Thinking beyond the without stumbling onto a food vastly prefer tough, tough meat” traditional markets. festival or event. Visitors plan their and they “eat tree snails that are ([SHULHQFLQJWKHIRRGRIWKH vacations around the dates of these VRWRXJK\RXZRXOGKDYHGLI¿FXOW\ country, region or area is now JXVWDWRU\FHOHEUDWLRQV7KH distinguishing it from a rubber 18 Africa Travel Magazine PIERRE THIAM PRESENTS HIS AUTHENTIC WESTERN AFRICA CULINARY DELIGHTS AT THE ATA CONGRESS tire”… “for them, eating something * Organize cooking classes: Chef and Asian cooking.) for dinner is not an appreciation of Demonstrations or in-the-kitchen • Another way to dramatize our WHQGHUQHVV,WLVDQDSSUHFLDWLRQRI chef trainingDUHWZRH[FLWLQJ regional cuisine is to publish a toughness, and they want to really ways to create an unforgettable cookbook with favorite recipes from chew on the meat and enjoy it GLQLQJH[SHULHQFHIRUJXHVWV the area, as well as local specialties because meat is so rare”. Enhance these approaches further from restaurants. Tourism boards 7KLVLVDQRWKHUFDVHRI[HQRSKRELF by showcasing a chef. African must realize that cookbooks are comments that simply repeats old chefs must research our traditional cultural products, as well as prejudices toward Africa. recipes and then deconstruct them REMHFWL¿FDWLRQVRIFXOLQDU\FXOWXUH. Solutions in order to present it beautifully Rather than simply be understood Culinary Tourism is the hippest and appetizingly in plates and in DVUHÀHFWLRQVRIFRQWHPSRUDU\ travel trend cookbooks. We need to reinvent consumer culture, cookbooks Tourism boards must seize the great our cuisine, using techniques and should be understood as artifacts RSSRUWXQLWLHVWKDWH[LVWLQWKLVQLFKH lessons from other food cultures of cultural life in the making. by investing in development and while still keeping our authentic Cookbooks contain not only recipes promotion of the local cuisine. A ÀDYRUV IRUH[DPSOH5R\ Africa Travel Magazine 19 EHVW,WLVZHOOEDODQFHGZLWKJUDLQV carotene (that’s why it’s orange in YOLELE! RECIPES FROM beans, proteins, leaves, fruits and color), rich in vitamin A and D and THE HEART OF SENEGAL the occasional use of fermentation is even now believed to have cancer BY PIERRE THIAM which facilitate digestion. ¿JKWLQJTXDOLWLHV VHULRXVUHVHDUFKHV are being done on the topic).Today, 3+272*5$3+<%<$'$0%$5726 )RQLRIRUH[DPSOHLVDJUDLQWKDW palm oil is called nature’s gift to the has been cultivated for over 5,000 world and it is interesting to notice African cuisine is the hottest trend in years in the continent and even in shelves of NY health food stores’ the culinary world today and Pierre considered sacred in some parts as well as organic supermarkets’ like 7KLDP¶V<2/(/(5HFLSHV)URP of Africa (i.e. ancient Egypt, here :KROH)RRGVZKHUHLWLVVROGLQ 7KH+HDUW2I6HQHJDOLVWKH¿UVW in Gambia and Casamance and by small 8 ounces jars for $15 to $20. cookbook devoted to Senegalese cuisine. YOLELE is one more rea- the Dogon people in Mali who call There are many more African son why food critics and food lovers it the seed of the universe). This ingredients that would make this list alike are taking notice of the new, JUDLQLVH[WUHPHO\ULFKLQSURWHLQ PLOOHWVRUJKXPHWF ,WLVRXUUROH and minerals, it abounds in 2 of H[FLWLQJUHFLSHVDQGEROGÀDYRUV to educate the consumers. coming out of Africa. Now, thanks the rarest amino-acids (cystine 1HHGOHVVWRVD\WKLV¿JKWFDQ¶WEH to the pioneering efforts of restau- and methionine) which are absent WKHFKHIV¶DORQH,WZLOOWDNHWKH rateur and Senegalese native Pierre in all the other major grains (rice, combined efforts of governments Thiam to bring this once little- barley, corn etc..) in addition fonio and entrepreneurs, as well as tour known cuisine to a wider audience, is gluten-free, it matures in 2 month RSHUDWRUV,WLVDGDXQWLQJHIIRUWEXW ZHDUHDEOHWRH[SORUHDFXLVLQHWKDW and is now easily processed and it is well worth it. Once they taste LVDWRQFHIDPLOLDUDQGH[RWLFGRZQ packaged. African food they will not only home and elegant. Once food lovers Another ingredient is the ask for second servings, they will try these delectable dishes, they will quintessential palm oil, which was keep this unique and memorable understand why Pierre Thiam’s Le for a very long time discredited. H[SHULHQFHZLWKWKHPDQGKHOS Grand Dakar restaurant in Brook- )DOVHO\UXPRUHGWRKDYHFKROHVWHURO spread the word. Photo: Le Grand lyn has packed crowds night after night, feasting on such delicacies as (which is impossible because it’s Dakar Restaurant, Brooklyn, NY, 6KULPSDQG6ZHHW3RWDWR)ULWWHUV from a vegetable and not an animal), 86$ palm oil is in reality rich in beta- Grilled Chicken with Lime- Onion 6DXFH%OXH)LVKZLWK5HG Rice and Vegetables (their signature dish), and Roast- ed Mango and Coconut Rice Pudding. YOLELE introduces read- ers to new taste sensations, H[RWLFVSLQVRQULFHDQG other familiar ingredients, and foods indigenous to Senegal, such as fonio, an ancient, tiny-seeded whole grain that has been one of the mainstays of Senega- lese cuisine. Bursting with GHOLFLRXVWDVWHDQGH[- traordinarily healthy, fonio is likely become a major 20 Africa Travel Magazine player in home cookbook in English, will surely kitchens and top restaurants in the Senegalese were to choose only one lead the way as African cuisine years ahead. Senegalese cuisine of their many Vietnamese-inspired emerges and takes its rightful place is a sonorous synthesis of native dishes, this would be the one. This vegetarian appetizer will be the traditions. and Vietnamese cuisines. Among the highlight of any party or dinner. About the Author Bakary Calamari Salad: Named in Pierre Thiam is the chef-owner Tempra: A classic from the shores honor of Chef Bakary Diedhiou at of Le Grand Dakar restaurant in of Guinea Bissau to the Casamance the Casamance hotel, Au Bar de la Brooklyn, New York. Previously, he River, tempra is reminiscent of Mer, this may be the most tender was the owner of Yolele and Sage Peruvian ceviche, the major dif- calamari salad to beguile even the Catering. He has worked at top res- most epicurean palate. taurants throughout New York City grilled before marinating in the a healthier variation of Lebanese Boom, and Two Rooms. His website Fonio & Smoked Tofu bulgur salad, thanks to the nutrient- is www.granddakar.com. Stuffed Tomatoes: rich fonio. The perfect light dinner dish. The - (hardcover) smoked tofu and refreshing cu- etables: Also known as Thiebou cumber are topped with lime juice and oil, then stuffed into large, ripe stuffed with vegetables and cooked tomatoes. This unique dish provides in a thick tomato sauce is a signature a special, irresistible balance of Senegalese dish. Oyster Elin- almost any new contribution to the kine: This too-sparse literature of African food. simple recipe is similar to a book on the richly appealing food classic mignon- of his native Senegal is beyond the ette, grilled or broiled, and served with a lime and raw writing, and much marvelous pho- onion dressing. tography, a fascinating food tradi- tion and the culture in which it is Duck: Viet- namese and pride, this highly personal book con- Senegalese nects us to those who know, make, and love this food. A most welcome come together in the marinade for this roasted Letters duck recipe, Yucassoise giving the duck a perfect blend most satisfying about this dish is of sweet and the nuttiness of an ordinary potato. Garnishing this soup with leeks YOLELE, the makes for a nice touch. Africa Travel Magazine 21 MAY 2010: TANZANIA TOURIST BOARD MARKS THE TENTH ANNIVERSARY OF ITS AWARDS PROGRAM 7RXULVP&LUFXLW ,PPHUVLRQ -RXUQH\V7RXU2SHUDWRU1HZ Product Development Award; and Asilia Africa’s Sayari Camp, Sustainable Tourism /Camps Award. This year, there were also three Special Recognitions for outstanding contribution to the development of Tourism -DQH Goodall, for her world renown research with Chimpanzees on *RPEH,VODQG1DWLRQDO3DUNDQG her worldwide efforts to educate children around the world about conservation; the late Drs Louis and Mary Leakey, archaeologists and anthropologists, working on bone and fossil analysis in Photo caption: At the Tanzania going President of the Africa Oldupai Gorge in the Ngorongoro Gala Awards Dinner, Hon. Travel Association (ATA). The Conservation Area (now a Shamsa Mwangunga, Tanzania’s announcement took place at the 81(6&2+HULWDJH6LWH ¿IW\ Minister for Natural Resources Gala Tanzania Tourism Dinner on years ago, discovered a skull that and Tourism and ATA out- May 17th at the Sheraton Gambia ZRXOGFKDQJHDOOSULRUVFLHQWL¿F going president, presented Hotel. The Tanzania Award K\SRWKHVLV7KHLUH[FLWLQJ the host of the ATA Congress dinner has become a celebrated discovery was a humanoid skull Hon. Fatou Mass Jobe Njie, tradition and one of the highlights with huge teeth that they named Minister of Tourism and Culture, of the annual ATA Congress. Zinjanthropus or “Zinj.” The the Gambia, with a Makonde Notable among the honorees H[FHOOHQWFRQGLWLRQRIWKHVNXOO carving. From Left: Hon Njie was MTV News and Docs, allowed scientists to date the and Hon. Mwangunga. Opposite named winner of the Tanzania beginnings of mankind to about page: Gala dinner participants Tourism Media Broadcast two million years ago, and to FHOHEUDWHRQGDQFHÀRRU Award, in recognition of its one- verify that human evolution and-half hour documentary on began not in Asia, as previously Banjul, The Gambia the “Summit on the Summit” WKRXJKWEXWLQ$IULFD,Q Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, .LOLPDQMDUR&HOHEULW\&OLPE NHHSLQJZLWKWKHVLJQL¿FDQFH the 2010 Honorees of the aired nationwide on March 14, of this information, Oldupai prestigious Tanzania Tourist 2010. Other honorees included: Gorge is now known as “The Board (TTB)’s Annual Awards Dar Guide, Media Print Award; Cradle of Mankind”; and Retired were announced by the Hon. Zara Tours, Tour Operator General Mirisho Sarakikya, Shamsa S. Mwangunga, M.P., Humanitarian Award; Africa ZKRKDVFOLPEHG.LOLPDQMDUR Tanzania’s Minister for Natural Adventure Consultants, Tour IRUW\VL[WLPHVWKHPRVWDPRQJ Resources and Tourism, and out- Operator Southern/Western Tanzanians, for his outstanding 22 Africa Travel Magazine MAY 2010: TANZANIA TOURIST BOARD MARKS THE TENTH ANNIVERSARY OF ITS AWARDS PROGRAM contribution, passion and efforts Department of Antiquities. LQWKH86:HDUHFRQ¿GHQWWKDW he has shown in promoting and Tanzania and USA Mr. Pitt, a photo journalist who sensitizing various categories of The American market continues is involved in many humanitarian climbers including diplomats, to grow, and for the third projects in Tanzania, will students and several dignitaries to consecutive year remains the generate much interest in FOLPE0W.LOLPDQMDUR number one source of visitors Tanzania through his multiple Present at the Tanzania Dinner to Tanzania worldwide,” said business and social networks.” for the announcement of the Hon. Shamsa S. Mwangunga, Dr Aloyce Nzuki, TTB Managing 2010 Honorees and Special M.P. “We attribute this growth Director noted that “as we recognitions were the Hon. to the many aspects of our celebrate the 10th anniversary of )DWRX0DVV-REH1MLH0LQLVWHU marketing plan, not least of the Tanzania Tourism Awards of Tourism and program, we Culture, the can be proud Gambia, Eddie of that fact that Bergman, ATA we achieved ([HFXWLYH'LUHFWRU two major and the Ministers of objectives, Tourism and heads increasing the of delegations number of from more than tourists from the 10 African North American countries, the market, and $7$,QWHUQDWLRQDO increasing the Board of Directors number of tour and ATA Chapter operators who representatives offer stand alone as well as more safari programs than 300 ATA to the Southern GHOHJDWHVLQFOXGLQJ86EDVHG which is the strong support of and Western circuits. These WUDYHOSURIHVVLRQDOV,QDGGLWLRQ our travel industry partners we successes are due in large part to to the Hon. Mwangunga, the are honoring here tonight. We the strong private sector support Tanzania delegation included, Dr. are also seeing the great impact from Tanzania itself as well as Aloyce Nzuki, newly appointed RIDWZR\HDU&118679$G our partners globally. However, Managing Director of the &DPSDLJQDQG³8OWLPDWH6DIDUL´ we want to emphasize, that Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB), Sweepstakes, as well as our as we work hard to continue representatives of the Tanzania 7UDYHO$JHQW8QLYHUVLW\7DQ]DQLD to grow our tourism arrivals, Ministry for Natural Resources Specialist Program with 1500 TTB will remain vigilant about 7RXULVPWKH7DQ]DQLD7RXULVW graduates. This coming year we conservation, encouraging low Board, Tanzania National Parks, hope to bolster the numbers even impact/high quality tourism.” Ngorongoro Conservation Area further with the appointment last This year, Tanzania also took Authority, Tanzania Wildlife PRQWKE\+(3UHVLGHQW-DND\D full advantage of the unique Department, the National 0ULVKR.LNZHWHRI'RXJ3LWWDV opportunity to use the World Museum of Tanzania and the Tanzania’s Goodwill Ambassador Cup in South Africa to reach Africa Travel Magazine 23 DQH[FKDQJHZLWK7DQ]DQLD for every client booked on and gain access to people, =DUD7RXUV,QDGGLWLRQWRWKH sites and industry sectors of diverse range of local projects their interest. This program that have been funded by Zara also provides assistance Charities, it also created in 2004 with identifying investment and provides funds to the Mount opportunities in Tanzania. .LOLPDQMDUR3RUWHUV6RFLHW\WR Complimenting this Academic/ ensure the health and safety of &RUSRUDWH7UDFNLV,PPHUVLRQ all the porters. Zara Tours also -RXUQH\V¶$IULFDQ&KURQLFOH created a volun-tourism add-on to Series where guests meet with its safaris of two or three days to cultural leaders, government encourage its clients to work on RI¿FLDOVDQGORFDOUHVLGHQWV local projects. They are hosted for meals and Tanzania Tourism Board are given a very local cultural Southern/western H[SHULHQFHSURYLGLQJWKHYLVLWRUV Circuit Awards 2010: with an authentic and genuine out to the thousands of football Africa Adventure opportunity to meet and interact fans coming to Africa from Consultants with their hosts. Tanzania is the number-one best around the globe. According to Sustainable Tourism selling destination in Africa for Amant Macha, TTB Marketing Award / Camps 2010: Denver-based Africa Adventure Director, “with a less than four Asilia Africa’s Sayari &RQVXOWDQWVZLWKDQH[SHFWHG KRXUÀLJKWIURP-RKDQQHVEXUJWR Camp 40% growth in 2010. Africa Dar es Salaam on South African Sayari Camp in the Northern Adventure Consultants has Airways, a Tanzanian safari is Serengeti is a model of promoted the growth of tourism DQLGHDOH[WHQVLRQWRDYLVLWWR sustainable tourism– in its to the Southern and Western South Africa. By hosting more environmental policies, safari circuits in Tanzania. They than 25 South African–based tour “keeping it local” with 90% RIIHUVL[VWDQGDORQHLWLQHUDULHVWR operators, we were able to assist local employment, training staff these areas, which enhances the WKHPLQFUHDWLQJVRPHH[FHOOHQW from the local community to depth of their overall Tanzanian tour packages.” become managers and buying portfolio: Chimp Trekking locally-grown produce. Their Adventure, Selous Walking TANZANIA TOURISM environmental policy highlights Safari, Southern Tanzania AWARDS 2010 waste management, energy Adventure, Southern Tanzania HONOREES saving, pollution issues, staff Safari, Tanzania Southern Gems welfare and reductions of carbon Safari and the Wildest Tanzania Tanzania Tourism footprints. Safari Board Tour Operator Media Award: Operator Award Product Humanitarian Award Broadcast 2010: MTV Development 2010: 2010: News and DocsMTV =$5$728567DQ]DQLDEDVHG Immersion Journeys produced and aired a one-and- ,PPHUVLRQ-RXUQH\VKDVFUHDWHG Zara Tours, through Zara a-half hour documentary on a special niche by providing Charities, has created unique the “Summit on the Summit” programs for universities, LQLWLDWLYHVWKDWEHQH¿WWKHORFDO .LOLPDQMDUR&KDULW\&OLPEOHGE\ corporations and public sector communities. Zara Tours itself DZDUGZLQQLQJUDSVWDU.HQQD institutions who want to have donates $15 to these charities LQFOXGLQJDFWRUV-HVVLFD%LHODQG 24 Africa Travel Magazine now the number of tour operators offering “stand alone” safaris to the South and West of Tanzania has been steadily growing. TTB selected the Annual Africa Travel Association Congress as the venue for the Gala Awards Dinner to show support for ATA’s ever H[SDQGLQJJOREDOUHDFKLQSURPRWLQJ tourism to the Continent of Africa. The prestigious Awards are presented each year by Tanzania’s Minister of Natural Resources and Tourism. The 2010 Awards were presented by the Hon. Shamsa S. Mwangunga, M.P. ,Q77%FUHDWHGWKH¿UVW ever Tour Operator Humanitarian Award. This was a direct result of WKH6HFRQG,,37$IULFDQ&RQIHUHQFH (PLOH+LUVK.HQQDLQLWLDWHGWKH distribution in Dar es Salaam, climb to focus world attention RQ3HDFHWKURXJK7RXULVP ,,37 Zanzibar, Arusha and Moshi. hosted by Tanzania’s Ministry of on the need for clean water in Natural Resources and Tourism, developing countries. With 150 About the Tanzania Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, December channels worldwide, MTV is a Tourism Awards 2003. TTB wanted to encourage name that is recognized around The Tanzania Tourist Board more tour operators to make a direct globe. MTV is part of the announced the establishment of contribution to the betterment of the Viacom network, which connects the Tanzania Tourism Awards at local communities, thereby making with audiences around the the ATA Congress in May 2000 in them ‘stakeholders’ in the tourism ZRUOGLQPRUHWKDQPLOOLRQ $GGLV$EDED(WKLRSLDDQGWKH)LUVW industry. Annual Tanzania Tourism Awards KRXVHKROGVLQFRXQWULHV ,QWKHVDPH\HDU77%DOVR were presented at a Gala Dinner at H[SDQGHGLWV$ZDUGV3URJUDPWR Media Award Print 2010: the ATA Congress in Cape Town, honor Tanzania’s partners at home Dar Guide South Africa, May 2001. who have helped to improve the Launched in May of 1997, the The Awards were created to quality and infrastructure of its monthly Dar es Salaam Guide, support, and show appreciation to, tourism product recognizing that a full-color, glossy magazine the travel professionals and media WRXULVPFRXOGQRWH[SHULHQFHWKH written in English, has proven to who have worked hard promoting fast-paced growth without this be a valuable tool in promoting DQGVHOOLQJ7DQ]DQLDLQWKH86 private sector investment and domestic tourism. The Dar es market as well as to provide an support. incentive to increase the numbers Salaam Guide features stories )RUPRUHLQIRUPDWLRQ even more in the coming years. about Tanzania visit www. focusing on Tanzania’s national The Awards have taken on more tanzaniatouristboard.com. parks, game reserves, historical VLJQL¿FDQFHDVWKH$PHULFDQPDUNHW sites, cultural tours and beach has become the number-one source (GLWRULDOFRQWDFWLQWKH86 destinations, as well as guides of tourists for Tanzania worldwide .DUHQ+RIIPDQ6DUDK0F+HIIH\ to weekend getaways, local for two consecutive years. One The Bradford Group. entertainment, restaurants, RI77%¶VVSHFL¿FREMHFWLYHVZDV 7HO )D[ movies, arts and culture. 15,000 to promote the Southern Circuit, 8253. Email [email protected] copies are distributed for free which until recently was the travel connoisseur’s “best kept secret” but countrywide, with a concentrated Africa Travel Magazine 25 1 2 CAMEROON’S FESTIVALS ,WILDLIFE AND CULTURAL DIVERSITY 4 5 6 7 3 8 9 10 11 12 13 Cameroon is Africa in One Country Photos. 1. Giraffes in Wasa National Park 2. Malimba race canoe”at Ngondo festival. 3. Fantasia in North Region. 4. Tea plantation. 5. Face painting. 6. Ngouon festival near Sultan’s Palace. 7. Trek to Mt. Cameroon. 8. Kapiski Region. 9. Lobe River Excursion. 10. Limbe Botonical Gardens. 11.-12. Ngondo Festival activities. 13, Lobe 14 Waterfall. 14. ST-EP Ebogo Tourist Site. 26 Africa Travel Magazine Interview: H.E. Baba Hamadou, LVYHU\FRQGXFLYHIRUSURÀWDEOHWRXULVW tourism in Africa. Minister of Tourism, Cameroon investments. What are your priorities for the How highly do you rate your improvement to the tourism Mister Minister, what are your membership in the Africa Travel infrastructures? immediate and long range goals Association and its events in To improve tourism infrastructures in for tourism in Cameroon? Africa and the USA? Cameroon, a number of activities have been In the area of tourism Cameroon is currently undertaken, notably: pursuing a double objective: seeing to it 1- On going leasing procedure of State- that this sector participates concretely and owned hotels. immediately in the implementation of the To that effect, a public international Head of State’s policy programme for his call for the manifestation of interest was FXUUHQWVHYHQ²\HDUWHUPRIRIÀFHVRDV launched and the deadline for submission of to meet the common goal of social well WHQGHUÀOHVLV0D\ being. This is why my Ministry is working 2- Many tourist sites have been studied and WRLQFUHDVHVLJQLÀFDQWO\WKHQXPEHURI are soon going to be developed within the international tourists visiting Cameroon. framework of ecotourism development in 7KHÀJXUHLVWRGD\HVWLPDWHGDWDERXWKDOID Cameroon. It is the case with the EBOGO million. tourist site in the Centre Region and Lake The immediate objective which agrees AWING in the North- West Region which with the medium- range target of endowing are STEP projects (Sustainable Tourism for the sector with a sound tourism policy Eliminating Poverty) that will be made possible in the coming 3- Improving upon the quality of service months through a Tourism Development in lodging establishments through the on Master Plan, will lead to a more rational and JRLQJFDPSDLJQVRQFODVVLÀFDWLRQDQGUH optimal development and exploitation of our FODVVLÀFDWLRQ potentials. 4- Training and sensitization campaigns The upcoming creation of a National There exist potential market segments in the geared towards private operators through the Tourism Board, the developments now USA for the development of our tourism. organization of seminars on quality. taking place in some tourist sites, notably There are for example, lovers of nature, What results do you expect from within the framework of the STEP of less – disturbed environment, and of the Africa Tourism Commission (Sustainable Tourism for Eliminating genuine cultures and traditions. But, the most meeting this May? Poverty) Programme, the imminent visible segment is of human and historic The UNWTO Africa Commission is holding launching of major construction works for interest. It is worth recalling that according its 50th meeting from 17 to 19 May 2010 the iinvestment of giant tourist complexes to historians, about 30% of black slave in Algiers in Algeria. This meeting is in Malimba-Yoyo in the Littoral Region population that was taken from the West coming after the 18th session of the General and in Lobé near Kribi in the South Region Coast of Africa originated from the region assembly meeting of the World Tourism are ample proof of a brighter future for that stretches from Cameroon to the Niger Organization held last October in Astana in Cameroon’s tourism industry. As far as Delta. Probability is therefore high that an Kazakhstan and whose resolutions marked cooperation is concerned, we are going to important part of African Americans hailed more than ever before, the determination continue with the signing of cooperation from Cameroonian families, as it is the case and the capacity of its members to make agreements in the area of tourism, notably with Nate Parker, who, according to recent tourism an essential tool for job creation with China. information, will visit Cameroon where his and economic recovery. In my capacity as What sets Cameroon apart from roots are said to be found in the Tikar region. Chairman of the UNWTO Commission other destinations in Western This accounts for: Cameroon’s adhesion for Africa, and considering the positive and Central Africa? What is your WR$7$LQ WKHRUJDQL]DWLRQRIWZR results achieved by this region as far as competitive edge? annual congresses (1987 and 2004) and international tourist arrivals since the The main characteristic of Cameroon’s of one symposium on ecotourism in 2001 EHJLQQLQJRIWKHHFRQRPLFDQGÀQDQFLDO tourist products is their diversity. In LQ&DPHURRQ WKHFUHDWLRQRIDQ$7$ crisis of 2008 are concerned, our wish is to fact, thanks to its central position on the &KDSWHU WKHFUHDWLRQRID1DWLRQDO6FLHQWLÀF see our countries implement the resolutions African continent, Cameroon’s tourism is Committee on Cultural Tourism Project mentioned above, namely the ones relating characterized by a large variety of products. “The Slave Route” and more recently the to “the road map for recovery “and the Cameroon’s tourism potential is endowed representation of Cameroon Head of State Declaration of tourist movements”. This with a large range of resources stemming H.E. Paul BIYA at the 4 th Forum of African will help to maximize the fallouts of tourist from its landscape, and climate which give Heads of State on Tourism organized By activities in our countries. The World ULVHWRÁRUDDQGIDXQDUHVRXUFHVWKDWIHDWXUH ATA last September in New York alongside Football Cup to be organized in South Africa among the richest in Africa. Moreover, this the General assembly meeting of the United DQGWKHFHOHEUDWLRQRIWKHÀIWLHWKDQQLYHUVDU\ country harbours almost the totality of what Nations. of the independence of most African nature has unevenly given to other African As far as ATA events in Africa and the USA countries will obviously contribute to it. countries. Here live more than 250 ethnic are concerned, they have been witnessing groups with exceptionally rich and varied for the past years both a quantitative and Cameroon Ministry of Tourism cultures and folklores. qualitative evolution. The project for the Tel:, +237 222-4411 It is worth noting here that in a region like HODERUDWLRQRIDÀYH\HDUSODQRI$7$·V Fax:, +237 222-1295. ours which is plagued with all sorts of crises activities could be a good thing likely to help B.P. 266 Yaoundé 237 Cameroon - social peace that reigns in our country this organization be more at the service Website: www.mintour.gov.cm of its members and of the development of E-mail: [email protected] Africa Travel Magazine 27 TO TIMBUKTU FOR A HAIRCUT: A Journey through West Africa by Rick Antonson “The boat leaves tomor- The Forbidden City row.” It surprised me how reachable Timbuktu was. I’d Unesco World Heri- been willing to put up with sporadic travel and tage Site delays, to accept cramped and stuffy spaces, to be Tagged with labels such as hot to the point of suffocation, to adjust to com- “The Town of 333 Saints,” munication gaffes, to accept “price surprises,” and Timbuktu no longer re- even to eat sand. None of this was easy for anyone. ceives accolades. Those Nevertheless, “the Forbidden City” was, after all, who call it home do not accessible.” share the foreigner’s fasci- I had taken a day — one day only — in the middle nation. The city’s mystique of my life and set it aside for Timbuktu. This was is powerful only until you arrive. I’d like to pretend that day and its evening and the night. it’s different, but it isn’t. The Bouctou Hotel, low and unassuming as a sand Nothing prepares the naive visitor for the absence dune, seemed to attract litter into piles wherever of intrigue quite like the question Malians consis- people sat or squatted. An irascible Mohammed, de- WHQWO\DVNZKHQWKH\ÀQGRXWWKDWRQHLVWUDYHOOLQJ termined to remain aloof from the scattered groups to Timbuktu: “Why?” around him, leaned alone against a tree, where my UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites grew in Land Cruiser stopped just short of his scowl. 1988 with the designation of Timbuktu and the “Rick!” he shouted at my open window, command- VSHFLÀFLQFOXVLRQRILWVWKUHHPRVTXHVRIZKLFK ing the scene and muting the hubbub of conversa- the Djinguereber Mosque, built in 1325, is the most tion. I shoved the vehicle’s door open and swung prominent. Its reputation rests on its history and its P\IHHWWRWKHJURXQG,ZDVDWLWFKWDOOHUWKDQKLP current state of disrepair, as well as for its periodic his eyes were darker. He held the advantage. “The acceptance of visitors. The Sankoré Mosque, part boat must leave today at three,” he smiled. of a school, at- “Nope.” I said this quickly, and noticed that the tended by 25,000 bystanders gasped that someone would dare dis- university students agree with this forceful Arab. The air quickened. at its peak in the “It would be good,” he continued with self-serv- sixteenth century, is ing self-assurance. “You have lots of time in also notable. Its col- Timbuktu. Then the pinasse can leave.” onnades and court- In the ensuing silence, he knew that I knew that yard were rebuilt in this change was necessary to make a related itin- 1582, though it was erary work for him. The River Niger could wait. ÀUVWFRQVWUXFWHGD I said nothing. People looked away. Zak scraped century earlier, and the sand with the heel of his sandal. Then, all the mosque is cited eyes turned toward Mohammed. Finally. “Rick?” as “unique earthen ,WZDVVKDUSWKHZD\KHÁXQJLW´,W·VQRWJRLQJWR architecture.” The happen, Mohammed.” I breathed for the crowd. Sidi Yahia Mosque, 28 Africa Travel Magazine which takes its name from one of Timbuktu’s saints, TO TIMBUKTU FOR A HAIRCUT: is in the best condition of the three, but non-Muslims are denied entry. All three mosques, however, are crum- bling away. In Timbuktu, the restoration of monuments is a continuous process, and the drift of earth among them relentless. Timbuktu, once the “Pearl of Africa,” also has the dubious distinction of being on the United Nations’ List of World Heritage Sites in Danger. Surviving there to this day are homes of the three earli- est European explorers to reach the fabled city and live among its inhabitants. Each feared for his personal safety and was eager to re- turn to Europe and relate his achievements. In the nearly two hundred years since then, the mud houses of La- ing, Caillié, and Barth have been, as they were before the arrival of their historic guests, shelter for residents of Timbuktu. And they remain intact, despite the desert’s continued attempts to erode them. Scuffed by history, Mali be- nignly accepts its diminished status. The Malian Empire is no more, and the coun- try vies with Bangladesh as the world’s poorest nation. 'HVHUWLÀFDWLRQLV7LPEXNWX·V JUHDWHVWWKUHDW 0DOL·VQHP- esis, the Sahara — with 7 million square kilometres of gave birth to Timbuktu. Now its sands are trying to bury it with a persis- sand — assaults every man- tence more treacherous than the heat’s. made structure. The Sahara Africa Travel Magazine 29 Priceless Timbuktu Manuscripts Endangered, too, are the rarest of writings — pieces of history-on-paper that form one of the world’s great treasures — the Tim- buktu manuscripts. Many crumble at the touch of a ZHOOPHDQLQJKDQG RWK- ers wither simply because of their exposure to air. Without them, we will know immeasurably less about a glorious time for Africa, some six hundred years ago. The manuscripts provide a portrait of life, of religion and science, of law and architecture, and of a society that thrived like none other at that time. Before leaving on my journey, while research- ing Timbuktu’s fourteenth-century history and its extensive libraries, I was disheartened to read about thousands of ancient manuscript pages that today lay tattered and unattended in mud homes and deserted buildings. Images of ancient books and furled pages falling apart for lack of care provided a powerful incentive for visiting Timbuktu. My newly gained awareness of their existence, and their peril, infused my journey with a worthy purpose: WRÀQGWKHPDQXVFULSWVDQGÀQGDZD\WRKHOSZLWK their preservation. Old Timbuktu Once known as “The Eyes of the Desert,” old 7KH'MLQJXHUHEHU0RVTXHZDVDQH[FHSWLRQDOÀQG Timbuktu was quite the sight. In 1933, William though it does not loom physically as it does histori- Seabrook wrote, “It is, I believe, the only city in cally. To imagine that it had once been a centre of the whole wide world which has none of the ba- OHDUQLQJÀOOHGZLWKIHUYHQWDGKHUHQWVDQGSHRSOHG nal blessings, or curses, of what we choose to call night and day with scholars as well as those in ‘white civilization.’”Old Timbuktu, the inner part of prayer, paints a picture of a vast house of worship. the city, was innocuous and compact, its walkways But we found it was not much over twice the height the now-trampled swells of desert. Few markings or of the other buildings in the neighbourhood of the signs designated its streets or paths. Place de l’Indépendence, off the Boulevard Askia Travellers and travel books said it would be wise Mohammed, and that it had a modest entrance. Cen- for a visitor to hire a local guide, if only to rid one- turies earlier, Leo Africanus wrote, “There is a most self of pestering youngsters. I asked Zak to come stately temple to be seen.” In those days it must have with me that morning. We walked away from the been more impactful on its surroundings. Bouctou Hotel’s drabness to a wider dirt road and Caillié had noted another reality in his journal: “I along its rim into the old city, a district neglected by visited the great mosque on the west side of town. charm. The walls are in bad repair, their facing being dam- aged by rain. Several buttresses are raised against Famous Landmarks 30 Africa Travel Magazine the walls to support them. I ascended the tower, shout of calm from the Imam and, in my own way, though its staircase is almost demolished.” Since feel compelled to kneel and give thanks. 1325, when the poet and architect Es Saheli cre- “Another, Ramadan,” Zak said, no longer repeating ated this unique design, Timbuktu’s most important the caretaker’s words, and only then noticing me mosque has needed constant reworking and repair. pondering prayer behind him. But I’d heard, and Wooden support beams poke through its slant- QRGGHGVRKHFRQWLQXHG´&RPPHPRUDWHVÀUVWUHY- ing walls, acting as stabilizers for the wall and for elation to Mohammed. Muslims fast. One month. mudding crews. Though Mansa Musa directed its Dawn to dusk.” construction upon his return from Mecca, it was Sa- ´$QG0HFFDµ,DGGHGWRFRPSOHWHWKHÀIWKSLOODU heli, brought from Egypt, who created the striking of their faith. S\UDPLGEDVHWKDWQRZGHÀQHV7LPEXNWX'MHQQp “Yes,” Zak said. “Every Muslim. Pilgrimage. If and Mali generally in photographs. Musa also en- they afford. If healthy.” couraged broader belief in the tenets of Islam, and Religion has long been a travel motivator: the see- building libraries and universities known as madra- ing of sites, the paying of tributes, homage given to sas, most of them no longer in existence. deities or a pilgrimage. Faith led to travel as surely A Rare Opportunity as a current carries water. If you are fortunate, you Non-Muslims are generally not invited into travel with two religions: your own and that of your mosques, so when the opportunity arose to enter host, from whom you learn. Many people travel this one, we took it. The caretaker waited inside the to learn the rituals of other religions rather than to house of prayer, his mood as solemn as the dusty comprehend the beliefs underlying these rituals. light. “Zak,” I asked, “do you believe in God?” Quiet. The caretaker gestured to me to shed my “Yes,” he said. He did not elaborate. leather thongs. Streams of sunlight were the only The caretaker left us alone, and we ascended the other intruders as he showed Zak and me along the mosque’s stairs to the roof. The architect Es Saheli passage where prayers were uttered. He indicated had invented the mud brick, a revolutionary tech- SULYDF\KROORZVIRUWLÀHGE\ZRRGDQGFDUYHGPXG nique in a land where previously mud and weeds where worshippers made penance. were slapped on wood frames. The stability of this We entered three inner courts. Rows of pillars, brick, augmented by upgrades over the centuries, WZHQW\ÀYHLQDOOVWRRGLQDQHDVWWRZHVWDOLJQ- accounted for the sturdiness of the stairs. Caillié too ment. Zak whispered the translation as we walked. had climbed those stairs, two centuries ago. “Islam too has pillars. Five. Primary belief, ‘Is no Life and Commerce in Old Timbuktu god but Allah,’ and Mohammed his Throughout old Timbuktu, narrow, shallow ditches prophet.” “Second, Muslims face Mecca and pray. Must at daybreak, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset. Again nightfall.” “And they give alms,” I added, happy to contribute. Walking within the mosque, with no one else about, the austere expanse made it seem less a place of worship and more a magic hall where, when I stopped and let Zak drift on, I could imagine a throng of prayer-makers, hear the Africa Travel Magazine 31 line the centre of every street. We strolled with one eye to the ground and noticed the locals stepping carefully to avoid dip- ping a foot into those sewers. It meant we were not able to fully appreciate the buildings that bor- dered the walkways. Leo Africanus’s memories of Timbuktu inspired centuries of envy. “Here are many shops of DUWLÀFHUVDQGPHUFKDQWVDQG Those were the days, my friend ... twenty-sixth.” especially of such as weave linen The sun dictated that we hide. Mohammed might still shirk his DQGFRWWRQFORWKµ:HGLGQRWÀQG Zak and I dawdled over fried responsibilities, but I did not WKDWVSOHQGRXU UDWKHUZHZLW- chicken, smoked tomatoes, and want that possibility to colour my nessed the eking out of a life. what tasted like sawdust at the mood, to spoil my lunchtime rest, I asked Zak, “What does every- Poulet d’Or. Sheltered from the or to detract from further adven- one do here?” midday heat, we snoozed a little tures in Timbuktu. “They sell.” It was true. Everyone in our straight-back chairs. My I sensed that my greatest dis- sold. I wanted the guy who sold thoughts drifted to the morning’s coveries were ahead of us that haircuts. conversation with Mohammed, hot afternoon. Hidden down old %XWWKHVKRSVZHUHQRWGHÀQHG in which I’d challenged him. roads were the places that Laing, Nothing said, “Come in …” He was unkind, arrogant. “Po- Caillié, and Barth had temporar- Nothing on the streets recognized lice, your embassy, these people LO\FDOOHGKRPH ,KDGWRÀQG the visitor or the need for rest, can do nothing to me.” I did not them. More poignantly, there was or refreshment. Residents set a agree, but it was his country. I P\LPPHGLDWHQHHGWRÀQGHYHQ pot of still-cooking food on the asked him, “What if a traveller a portion of the Timbuktu manu- bunting of their homes, or used a wrote about you? It might not be scripts. I knew that within this table to promote their wares: fried favourable.” old city, centuries of neglect had ÀVKLQGLYLGXDOFLJDUHWWHVROG He was contemptuous. “People allowed a wealth of literary and tools. Bread was stacked three can write whatever they want. It VFLHQWLÀFZULWLQJVWRDJHGHWH- loaves high and four deep on a is nothing. I have no care for it.” riorate, and disappear. Would this ULFNHW\FKDLULQIURQWRIWKHÁDW He acknowledged that the hotels day provide a way for me to help sided mud house where it was and transport He was contemptu- reverse that trend, to be a part baked. I bought one and handed ous. “People can write whatever of recovering and saving these half to Zak. they want. It is nothing. I have documents? Children played tag, the world’s no care for it.” He acknowledged Lunch was over, and so was my most affordable game. Centuries that the hotels and transport were reverie. “Zak,” I said, “let’s go have transformed the personal- not as he’d portrayed them and ÀQGWKHPDQXVFULSWVµ ity of Timbuktu and her people. agreed to reimburse me: “I’ll We headed out to search for the Africanus noted, “The inhabitants do that.” I scribbled an address bibliothèque. For thirty minutes are people of a gentle and cheer- on a piece of paper and handed we stepped carefully around ful disposition.” He continued it to him. He said, “I will look garbage, urine, and feces on the with something I’d not noticed, at everything and wire money streets of Timbuktu. The scene that they “spend a great part of Western Union to Janice. You and did not reconcile with Caillié’s the night in singing and dancing.” me can then meet in Ségou on the description: “The streets are 32 Africa Travel Magazine clean, ing’s house. Two, Caillié’s home. gested. and suf- Three, Barth’s place. They say ´1RZH·OOÀQGLWµ ,UHDGWKDW ÀFLHQWO\ it’s a museum.” I trumped that WKHUH·VVFLHQWLÀFSURRIWKDWPDOHV wide to PDQ\ÀQJHUVLQIURQWRIKLP of our species don’t ask for direc- permit ´7KHQZH·UHJRLQJWRÀQGWKH tions. This was proved by the fact three ELEOLRWKqTXHµ,ÁLSSHGDIRXUWK LWWDNHVDWKRXVDQGVSHUPWRÀQG horsemen ÀQJHUWRFDWFKXS´=DNLIZH and fertilize one egg.) to pass don’t, you get to tell Moham- I spotted a boy watching us abreast.” med that I’m staying tomorrow in nearby, and asked him. He looked After we Timbuktu.” halfway down the street, at a had walked into the same empty He nodded, the fear of Moham- bend, and there it was: Gordon square for the third time, I was med evident on his face, and then Laing’s place. His guidance to becoming exasperated. he smiled, up for the alternative Caillié’s home was clear, and his “Zak, do you know where the WDVNRIKHOSLQJPHÀQGWKHVH directions to Barth’s sounded un- bibliothèque is?” places. impeachable. I should have hired “Here,” he said with a guide’s ´$QGµ,DGGHGP\IXOOKDQGÁDW a local guide. RYHUFRQÀGHQFH+HOHGXVLQWR WKHFRXQWFOHDU ´:H·OOÀQGWKH Visiting Laing Residence yet another alley, and for ten centre where I can get my pass- Laing’s house was before us. minutes I followed. We circled port stamped.” A crooked Mission Culturelle nicely. Then the same deserted “I don’t know where that is,” he plaque was stuck to the middle of surroundings appeared. confessed. a mud wall, and, to my delight, a “Zak, have you ever been to the One of the demons of travel is carved Moorish door was lodged bibliothèque?” hesitation. “Let’s ask,” I sug- open. “No.” He sulked, unwill- In this alcove of time there ing to admit defeat. was silence. This building “Do you know if there is had been Laing’s home for one?” “No.” most of his stay in 1826. Now owned by a local, it Search for Histori- did not seek passers-by. As cal Residences I had thought that patience I stood before it, there was was my strong suit, but it no one in view to ask if I was running low. Near us might enter, so I did under was a dilapidated ware- the pretense of obtaining house. Its loading plat- that permission. The mud form gave us some shade. walls did not differentiate “Zak, sit down,” I said. this building from other “Listen.” KRPHV QHLWKHUGLGWKH He cast his eyes at the height of its ceiling nor its ground. crowded passageway set it “There are a few things apart. It did have a notable that are going to hap- street presence accented pen here,” I began. He from the second storey by listened as a child would two Moorish windows of under reprimand. “One, carved wood. ZH·UHJRLQJWRÀQG/D- “The Timbuctoo Mission,” as Laing’s expedition Africa Travel Magazine 33 ZDVRIÀFLDOO\NQRZQ covery. has yet been uncovered. UHÁHFWHGLWVOHDGHU·V Only one of Laing’s Laing’s former home in Tim- ambition. It offered the letters from Timbuk- buktu was on a street corner and journey he sought and tu arrived in Trip- was two storeys high. The house the fame he craved. oli at that time. He appeared vacant on the lower Laing complained wrote of Timbuktu OHYHO QRWDEDQGRQHGMXVWQRWLQ in his writings from that the city had use. Finding no one to give me the desert that he was “completely met” permission to enter, I walked up continuously pressed his expectations. a narrow stairway to the sec- for money by those I chose to believe RQGÁRRU$VKDIWRIVXQSLFNHG he’d hired and already paid. He that Laing had penned that line its way through an ornamental wrote that one intransigent chief within the walls where I stood. window frame and cast an eerie “insisted I should go no further if Those words contrasted with his pall on the room’s three-metre- I did not pay.” Death was com- later accounts portraying “bitter by-four-metre space. There was a mon in these parts, and robbery disappointment” with Timbuktu. complete absence of furniture or convenient. Threats, putrid food, He was under constant pressure any evidence of occupation. Out hostilities, and ransom requests from the Fulan sultan to leave, of all of the potential ghosts of were impediments long registered though he had freedom of move- Timbuktu’s European explorers, by Africans, Arabs, and the few ment about the town. He sketched Laing’s was the most likely to Europeans who’d ventured this a city plan of Timbuktu and spent stay in the vicinity. I imagined the far. his time “searching the records in two of us sharing a moment in Laing arrived at Timbuktu in a the town, which are abundant.” that dank space, separated by 178 terrible state, destitute after being 7KLVPDQWKHÀUVW(XURSHDQWR years, and I envisioned him writ- attacked in the desert by Tuareg, knowingly stay in Timbuktu, ing his last journal notes in this shot in the side with a musket VSHQWÀYHZHHNVLQWKHFLW\ room: “I fear I shall be involved ball, slashed on his upper leg, before receiving permission to in much trouble after leaving crippled by a knife thrust that leave. A few days out of Tim- Timbuktu.” sliced his ear and cut his face. His buktu, heading for Europe, La- Finding René Caillié’s FRPSDQLRQVÁHGDQGWKHH[SORUHU ing was attacked by his African house was exhilarating. was left for dead. The rest of the protectors. Using his own turban, It stood (if this can be said of an caravan’s merchants were un- they strangled the man who loved often re-mudded structure, 174 harmed. They patched him up as Africa and decapitated him. His years after his visit) to the west of well as they could, lashed him to remains were left uncovered in WKHÀIWHHQWKFHQWXU\6LGL 34 Africa Travel Magazine competitors seeking now Korioumé, exchange affords.” He resolved to WKHJORU\RIÀUVWDU- riding north un- leave the city. riving in the fabled der the watchful His desire to leave Timbuktu, city. He travelled Tuareg. “My idea however, exceeded the willing- ZLWKRXWRIÀFLDO of the city’s gran- ness of his hosts to let him go. sanction, having deur and wealth It was Caillié’s goal to travel to been refused sup- did not correspond Morocco to make the outside port for his “pre- with the mass of world aware of his amazing ac- posterous” plan. He mud houses, sur- complishments. His efforts to studied the Koran, rounded by arid persuade his hosts to allow his learned to speak plains of jaundiced departure became increasingly Arabic, and pre- white sands,” he assertive, and he was eventually sented himself, convincingly, as observed. “I looked around and given leave. Four days’ travel an Egyptian born of Arab parents. found that the sight before me away from that Timbuktu house, In that guise, he ventured through did not answer my expectations. en route to Tangiers, Caillié’s hostile land, attired as an Arab. I had formed a totally different caravan stopped near the camp No one responded to my asking, idea of the grandeur and wealth where Laing was killed. There, in French, “Is anyone home?” of Timbuctoo.” WKH0RRUVVKRZHGKLPFRQÀUPD- Zak, bemused, offered up Bam- When he arrived in 1828, Cail- tion of that terrible deed. bara’s version of the phrase. The lié heard details of Laing’s desert 5HQp&DLOOLpZDVWKHÀUVW(XUR- door was ajar and I sensed it bid misfortunes, his arrival in the city pean to return safely home from me enter. For the moments I spent and his death, and he discovered Timbuktu. He received the So- in Caillié’s former home, I was a that the explorer had lived in the ciété de Géographie de France tourist in history, not a traveller house behind his only two years award of ten thousand francs, of- in the present. With a deferential earlier. Caillié continued to avoid IHUHGLQWRWKHÀUVW(XURSH- nod to the past, I walked into the arousing suspicion of his Christi- an to reach Timbuktu and return open part of the house and repli- anity. His host, Sheikh Al Bekây, safely. It was an award he’d heard cated a two-century-old sliver of provided sanctuary, freedom of in Freetown, Sierra Leone, time, feeling like an imposter. of movement, and food while and of which he’d said: “Dead While I travelled far beyond Caillié rested the bounds of my own skimpy in Timbuktu. knowledge, Caillié travelled Caillié’s candour with an understanding of places still resonates: “I and lands far beyond that of his cannot help con- contemporaries, even beyond that templating with of the local guides who passed astonishment the him on to more local locals when extraordinary he journeyed across their ter- city before me, ritory. He battled scurvy and created solely deprivation. His urge to be self- by the wants VXIÀFLHQWZDVDWWKHKHDUWRIKLV of commerce, explorations. On camel, with the and destitute of assumed name of Abdallahi, the every resource twenty-seven-year-old son of a except what its French baker approached Tim- accidental posi- buktu from the port of Kabara, tion as a place of Africa Travel Magazine 35 or alive, it shall be mine …” tu’s fame was founded In addition, France’s King on exaggerated claims. Charles X made him Cheva- Heinrich Barth in lier of the Legion of Honour. Timbuktu Caillié’s residence in La Sweating and covered Mystérieuse had been short, with a day’s dust, we his observations picaresque, stopped outside the home and the eventual telling of of Heinrich Barth, to the his rediscovery reliant on northeast east side of the jotted memories and scrupu- Sidi Yahia Mosque. I lously kept notations, secret- breathed deeply. Barth’s ly scribbled after excusing stay in Timbuktu was himself from the company the signature piece in of others, requesting time for KLVÀYH\HDUFURVVLQJ quiet meditation. Although of the Sahara. If there his writings covered his was a hint that Timbuktu entire travels, they were not might have a tourism able to persuade a skeptical future, this house was it: world that Timbuktu was we paid an entrance fee. without the charm and stat- Pictures on the walls had ure created by legend. Con- descriptions in English, French, and German. troversy would swirl around nographic Museum encircled Barth’s maps and sketches were Caillié’s book, Travels Through its namesake “Tin,” the Berber displayed. Framing was elusive, Central Africa to Timbuctoo, language’s grammatical kin to but some of the documents were which appeared in both France “well.” A recent construction, it protected behind glass, where and England in 1830. But public showcased Tuareg and Songhai the heat had melded them to the acclaim continually fought with artifacts of music and costume. surface. A pamphlet on Barth’s scholarly disdain. As Brian Gard- Standing over the well of the exploits was for sale. Was the fur- ner noted, “René Caillié’s book woman whose name became niture his? Did he slouch in that did little to stop the Timbuctoo the byword for remote, I stared corner, surrounded by curious Rush.” into the hole, its shallow depth and untrusting observers looking Boctou’s Well Still in blocked by mud. At the end of a on in silence? Did the tall Ger- Use rope swung a camel-skin bucket man feel the urge to hunch over, Circling the Sidi Yahia Mosque, that dropped from a wooden given the lowness of the ceiling, I inadvertently found Bouctou’s winch, itself secured by tree as I did? Was the air as tight in well. My guess is that most visi- branch props. I looked within the his lungs as it felt in mine? WRUVGRQ·WÀQGLWDQGGRQ·WERWKHU well and sensed Bouctou contem- Barth arrived in Timbuktu with a to believe that the propitious well plating her distorted navel. debilitating fever and recuperated is even marked. Yet that hole in Zak sloughed along a block away as a guest in this house, close to the ground at my feet was the and waved to me. Bolstered by Sheikh Al Bekây. He stayed here origin of the name Timbuktu. our logistical success in matching IRUWKHÀUVWPRQWKGXULQJZKLFK I politely shooed Zak away. I a street name with an explorer’s the competing authority, the local wished to be alone in my travel home, it made sense to Zak that chief, who challenged the sheikh fantasy. The two keepers of the ZHFKDQFH%DUWK·V/DQHWRÀQG for power over the Christian, place, oblivious to my presence, WKHKRXVHRIWKHPDQZKRÀQDOO\ made many attempts to expel talked in their sleep. The Eth- convinced skeptics that Timbuk- 36 Africa Travel Magazine ing today’s urban although popularly received, Barth. Among other anti-smoking disappointed its readers. Barth’s reasons, it was bylaws, he noted, reputation as a scholar and sci- suspected that he “Amongst other entist was strong enough that his was Laing’s son. things they have portrayal of Timbuktu as a mun- The result of this smoking a capital dane and dilapidated backwater competition be- crime, so that even was believed. He validated Cail- WZHHQWZRFRQÁLFW- in Timbuctoo, lié’s descriptions of Timbuktu’s LQJDQGLQÁXHQWLDO except near the unimportance in modern African local rulers was that house of Al Bekây, trade. Barth’s great achievement Barth was unable to a man smoking was that the public and politicians move freely about is in great danger ÀQDOO\DFFHSWHGWKHWUXWKDERXW the city. Sheikh Al …” Timbuktu. The myths of the “City Bekây eventually moved him His prolonged absence, and the of Majesty” began to lose their to an encampment in the desert, African rumour trade, resulted duel with reality. from where Barth, on occasions, in an erroneous report of Barth’s We dawdled in the dust, letting visited Timbuktu’s mosques and death in Berlin. His obituary was our accomplishments settle in spent hours among the towns- published, and all hope of know- with satisfaction. “Thanks,” I said people and visiting the “lively ing his whereabouts disappeared. to Zak, who had recovered his markets.” But political pres- He was still 2,700 kilometres FRQÀGHQFH sure mounted for this symbol from safety. Sheikh Al Bekây, In a narrow street, above the RIIRUHLJQLQWUXVLRQWKHLQÀGHO whose father had protected La- doorway of a building, hung a to leave. It culminated in a late- ing in Timbuktu, travelled with faded sign, tinged with mud that night conference between the Barth along the River Niger’s had been whipped high in the sheikh, the Tuareg, and the Fu- north shore for weeks to ensure rains and dried by the wind: Bib- lani. The Fulani gained control his safety. Finally, in September liothèque Manuscrits — Al-Wan- over Barth and held him for two ÀYH\HDUVDQGÀYHPRQWKV gari. Feeling euphoric, I pointed months in another camp while he after his journey began, Barth to it and smiled at Zak. Just then, tried to resolve the compromises wrote from his north African a blue robe appeared on the that kept him from departing. camp: “I set out on my last march path, seemingly brought by the He remained a total of six on the African soil in order breeze. It came months, a stay that resulted in to enter the town of Tripo- closer to reveal a the most thorough European-re- li.” WDLORUHGÀWRQWKH corded observations of Timbuktu, London and the world lanky frame of a including notes on the city’s responded excitedly to scholar. commerce and customs. Barth Barth’s triumph. Oxford undertook language and vocabu- bestowed an honorary Excerpted from lary documentation, and wrote degree on him, the Geo- To Timbuktu for of tribes, place names, and daily graphical Society of Paris a Haircut by Rick habits. awarded its Gold Medal, Antonson. His restricted movement meant and Queen Victoria pre- © 2008 by Rick that he had time for letter writ- sented the Order of Bath. Hein- Antonson. All rights reserved. ing. Halfway through his visit he rich Barth became president of Published throughout Africa Travel Magazine 37 MORE ATA ACTIVITIES IN BANJUL AND AREA 38 Africa Travel Magazine Africa’s Niche Markets - a Popular Panel Topic at the Africa Travel Association 35th Annual Congress, Banjul, Gambia 3LHUUH7KLDP)RXQGHUDQG&KHI*UDQG'DNDU $XWKRU Shola Lewis (right) of Atlanta, GA, Broadcast member of ATA Congress Media Team. Shola interviewed each of his media colleagues during a visit to a radio station in Banjul. Below: Exhibit at ATA Congress Trade Show. Africa Travel Magazine 39 40 Africa Travel Magazine WEBISCO Chief Margaret Bola Fabiyi 17 Adelabu Close, PO Box 4313 Surulere, Lagos, Nigeria Tel. 24 803 311 3167 Fax 234 1 2640979 Golden Tulip Kumasi City5DLQ7UHH6WUHHW32%R[.6 .XPDVL*KDQD [email protected] Tel. +233 51 83777 . +233 51 83711 . E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] www.goldentulipkumasicity.com . www.goldentulip.com/rss www.blackhistorymonth.com Ishema Hotel MUSANZE, RWANDA Vanessa E.Nuwera Ngango (Mrs.) *HQHUDO0DQDJHU,VKHPD+RWHO 32%R[0XVDQ]H5ZDQGD General Manager: [email protected] %RRNLQJOLQH email;[email protected] www.africa-ata.org/rw_ishema.htm . www.shyiradiocese.org.rw/wledgeable Africa Travel Magazine 41 ATA Media group dinner at the Protea Ikeja Hotel, Lagos, Nigeria enroute to The Gambia, courtesy of our sponsor Africa will Shine Arik Airlines. Journalists from Nigeria, Jamaica, Senegal, Once Again at the USA and Gambia joined our group later. World Travel Market, ExCel Centre, London 8-11 November, 2010 THERE’S MUCH MORE TO COME IN THIS EDITION, INCLUDING PHOTOS, CAPTIONS, COMMENTARY AND INTERVIEWS 42 Africa Travel Magazine Africa will Shine Once Again at the World Travel Market, ExCel Centre, London 8-11 November, 2010 Africa Travel Magazine 43 44 Africa Travel Magazine