Superalp Second Part: from Gran Paradiso to Mont Avic - Planetmount
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Chamonix Expedition Course
CHAMONIX EXPEDITION COURSE 2022 COURSE NOTES CHAMONIX EXPEDITION COURSE NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Private course, available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €4,200 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €2,600 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Work your way up to bigger goals. Photo: Olivier Baron Welcome to Adventure Consultants’ Chamonix Expedition Course. This high-quality course is the perfect stepping stone to high expedition peaks and ideal for climbers looking to start tackling the Seven Summits. Introducing you to a wide array of techniques and fine-tuning existing skills, you’ll develop the pre-requisites for going higher than you ever have before. Based out of the climber’s paradise of Chamonix At the end of the course, participants will have in the French Alps, our 6-day Chamonix Expedition gained the skills to tackle more committing multi- Course has been designed by Adventure day ascents, either guided or on their own. Consultants to equip you with the essential skills and techniques to take your climbing to the next level and begin tackling major ascents. SKILLS COVERED Let our experienced guides help you navigate your way towards safe and successful climbing practices, • Snow-craft and ice-craft with a special focus on expedition climbing to set • Rope skills applicable to alpine and expedition you on your way towards your mountain objectives. climbing • Rescue techniques and emergency shelters With a strong focus on practical experience, the • Glacier travel and self-rescue skills course is directed toward fit and motivated people • Route finding and navigation who have some background in the outdoors. -
Dufourspitze 4634M £1699
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Dufourspitze 4634m £1699 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/dufourspitze.html Key features Climb Dufourspitze, the highest mountain in Switzerland and second highest in the Alps.. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), with flexible itinerary to take advantage of the best conditions. Previous crampon or climbing experience is required, as this is a progression from an Intro course. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), guiding ratio 1:2 throughout the course. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 - 25 Jul, 26 Jul - 1 Aug, 9 - 15 Aug, 30 Aug -+- 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview . Climb the highest summit of Monte Rosa; Dufourspitze 4634m. It's the highest mountain in Switzerland, and the second highest in all of the Alps after Mont Blanc. We offer a week long programme to attempt this peak, as your acclimatisation and flexibility for selecting a weather window are crucial. To keep the itinerary flexibilty, the guiding ratio is 1:2 throughout, so you can take advantage of the best days for the summit weather window. -
Workshop on Transboundary Wildlife Management
ALPBIONET2030 Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation REPORT Workshop on Transboundary wildlife management 10 October 2017, Trenta, Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Alpbionet2030 – Work Package 2) Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation A workshop to discuss tactics and devise actions for transboundary wildlife management between the wildlife managers of Transboundary Ecoregion Julian Alps, defined as the sum of Triglav Hunting Management Area and Gorenjska Hunting Management Area (Slovenia) and Tarvisiano Hunting District (Italy) with their core protected areas of Triglav National Park and Prealpi Giulie Nature Park, was held at the conference facilities of the “Dom Trenta” National Park house in Trenta. This Workshop is one of the activities of WP T.2 of the Alpbionet2030 project co- financed by the EU Alpine Space Programme. INTRODUCTION The behaviour and habitat use of animals can be strongly affected by hunting methods and wildlife management strategies. Hunting and wildlife management therefore have an influence on ecological connectivity. Lack of consistency in wildlife management between regions can cause problems for population connectivity for some species, particularly those with large home ranges, (e.g. some deer and large carnivores). Hunting seasons, feeding (or lack thereof), the existence of resting zones where hunting is prohibited, legal provisions for wildlife corridors, even administrative authority for wildlife management differ from one Alpine country to another. The Mountain Forest Protocol of the Alpine Convention (1996) asks parties to harmonise their measures for regulating the game animals, but so far this is only happening in a few isolated instances. Thus, to further the goals of ecological connectivity, ALPBIONET2030 aims coordinate wildlife management in selected pilot areas. -
Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
Proceedings of the Association. Annual General Meeting, 1937
PROCEEDINGS OF THE ASSOCIATION. ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING, 1937. The fifteenth Annual General Meeting was held on April 29th, 1937, the chair being taken by the President, Mr. Walter Barrow. After the minutes of the last General Meeting had been read and confirmed, reports given by the Hon. Secretary, Hon. Treasurer, Hon. Librarian and Hon. Organiser of Meets were adopted, and Officers and Committee for the ensuing year elected. The new President, Mr. M. Tatham, was then introduced by Mr. Barrow and welcomed by the members. After an interval for refreshments, a number of very attractive lantern slides illustrating the Easter Meet at Coniston, which were very highly appreciated, were shown by Mr. J. A. Best. DINNER. The fourth biennial Dinner was held at the Grand Hotel on March 16th, 1937. The President, Mr. Walter Barrow, was in the chair, and the total attendance was 120. The guests of the Association included the following : Professor T. Bodkin, M.A., D.Litt, M.R.I.A.; Mr. N. E. Odell, representing the Alpine Club and Alpine Ski Club; Mr. W. M. Roberts, O.B.E. (British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club); Mr. A. L. Bill (Climbers' Club); Mr. R. Hope (Fell and Rock Climbing Club); Miss R. Hale (Ladies' Alpine Club); Miss E. Worsley Lowe (Pinnacle Club); Mr. J. R. Jenkins (Rucksack Club); Mr. J. E. MacLaren (Scottish Mountaineering Club); Mr. D. W. D. Showell (University of Birmingham Mountaineering Club); Mr. F. Lawson Cook (Wayfarers' Club) and Mr. J. M. Davidson (Yorkshire Ramblers' Club). The toast of "The Guests and Kindred Clubs" was proposed by Mr. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Tech Ice & Classics £1199
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Tech Ice & Classics £1199 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/classics.html Key features A course for those wanting to climb classic Alpine routes around Chamonix and Mont Blanc. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), 6 night B&B accommodation in Chamonix. Develop your mountaineering skills, style points and techniques on the many different routes. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), ratio 1:2 throughout to keep the itinerary flexible. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 – 25 Jul, 26 Jul – 1 Aug, 2 - 8 Aug, 9 – 15 Aug, 16 – 22 Aug, 23 - 29 Aug, 30 Aug – 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview For those who enjoy mountaineering climbing classic routes, this course allows you to push your skills (grade III ice or UK Severe or US Grade 5.9) to attempt some of the major mixed and ice mountaineering routes around Chamonix and the Mont Blanc Massif. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
Del Gran Paradiso Alta Montaña Y Patrimonio Religioso En La Cima De Un Gigante De Los Alpes
16 I ESTUDIOS DEL PATRIMONIO CULTURAL 6 LA MADONNINA DEL GRAN PARADISO ALTA MONTAÑA Y PATRIMONIO RELIGIOSO EN LA CIMA DE UN GIGANTE DE LOS ALPES Constanza Ceruti I CONICET/UCASAL | [email protected] El presente trabajo aborda la veneración que recibe la Madonnina, una pe- queña imagen de la Virgen María depositada en la cima del monte Gran Paradiso, en los Alpes Occidentales. La montaña constituye la cumbre más alta situada enteramente en territorio italiano y se cuenta entre los llama- dos «gigantes alpinos» cuya altitud supera los cuatro mil metros sobre el nivel del mar. Pero a diferencia de otros macizos como el Monte Blanco o el Matterhorn, que han sido cooptados por las ascensiones comerciales y deportivas, en el monte Gran Paradiso es aún factible experimentar el al- pinismo en sus formas más tradicionales, las que no excluyen la devoción religiosa. Nuestra Señora de los Montes y de las Nieves es venerada para proteger a los alpinistas en sus ascensiones y a los pobladores que habitan en los an- gostos valles Valsaverenche y Cogne, ante la amenaza de las avalanchas invernales. El culto a la Madonnina comprende instancias de ascensos en procesión colectiva, que se efectúan esporádicamente a la cumbre del Gran Paradiso con el fin de restaurar la imagen, afectada por las fulguraciones y la intemperie. Desde un punto de vista social y político, los llamados «viajes de la Virgen a la montaña» contribuyen a cohesionar a la comunidad y a legitimar el papel de obispos y sacerdotes, siendo para los pobladores alpinos motivo de orgu- llo contar con un párroco capaz de acompañar a la pequeña virgencita en su ascenso a la gran montaña. -
Pinnacle Club Jubilee Journal 1921-1971
© Pinnacle Club and Author All Rights Reserved PINNACLE CLUB JUBILEE JOURNAL 1921-1971 © Pinnacle Club and Author All Rights Reserved THE PINNACLE CLUB JOURNAL Fiftieth Anniversary Edition Published Edited by Gill Fuller No. 14 1969——70 © Pinnacle Club and Author All Rights Reserved THE PINNACLE CLUB OFFICERS AND COMMITTEE 1971 1921-1971 President: MRS. JANET ROGERS 8 The Penlee, Windsor Terrace, Penarth, Glamorganshire Vice-President: Miss MARGARET DARVALL The Coach House, Lyndhurst Terrace, London N.W.3 (Tel. 01-794 7133) Hon. Secretary: MRS. PAT DALEY 73 Selby Lane, Keyworth, Nottingham (Tel. 060-77 3334) Hon. Treasurer: MRS. ADA SHAW 25 Crowther Close, Beverley, Yorkshire (Tel. 0482 883826) Hon. Meets Secretary: Miss ANGELA FALLER 101 Woodland Hill, Whitkirk, Leeds 15 (Tel. 0532 648270) Hon Librarian: Miss BARBARA SPARK Highfield, College Road, Bangor, North Wales (Tel. Bangor 3330) Hon. Editor: Mrs. GILL FULLER Dog Bottom, Lee Mill Road, Hebden Bridge, Yorkshire. Hon. Business Editor: Miss ANGELA KELLY 27 The Avenue, Muswell Hill, London N.10 (Tel. 01-883 9245) Hon. Hut Secretary: MRS. EVELYN LEECH Ty Gelan, Llansadwrn, Anglesey, (Tel. Beaumaris 287) Hon. Assistant Hut Secretary: Miss PEGGY WILD Plas Gwynant Adventure School, Nant Gwynant, Caernarvonshire (Tel.Beddgelert212) Committee: Miss S. CRISPIN Miss G. MOFFAT MRS. S ANGELL MRS. J. TAYLOR MRS. N. MORIN Hon. Auditor: Miss ANNETTE WILSON © Pinnacle Club and Author All Rights Reserved CONTENTS Page Our Fiftieth Birthday ...... ...... Dorothy Pilley Richards 5 Wheel Full Circle ...... ...... Gwen M offat ...... 8 Climbing in the A.C.T. ...... Kath Hoskins ...... 14 The Early Days ..... ...... ...... Trilby Wells ...... 17 The Other Side of the Circus .... -
IN MEMORIAM Year of the ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY Election
IN MEMORL'\M IN MEMORIAM Year of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY Election Fisher, Joel E. • • • • • • • • 1913 Murray, G. W. • • • • • • • • 1925 Brown, T. Graham • • • • • • • 1926 Wilson, General Sir Roger • • • • • • 1927 Wager, L. R. • • • • • • • • 1928 Pleydell-Bouverie, Hon. B. • • • • • • 1934 Handley, C. B. C. • • • • • • • 1960 Bazarrabusa, T. B. • • • • • • • I963 Harlin, J. • • • • • • • • • rg66 JOEL ELLIS FISHER 1891- 1966 J. E. FISHER died suddenly on January 6 while en route by car to a meeting of the Board of Directors of the Melville Shoe Company. He was in his seventy-fifth year. Born in New York City, Fisher graduated from Yale with honours in I 9 I I, the youngest man in his class, Phi Beta Kappa and Sigma XI. During World War I he was a naval lieutenant on the U.S.S. lsabel. For many years he was president of the North-western Terminal Railroad in Denver, secretary and director of the Melville Shoe Company, treasurer and vestryman of the Church of the Heavenly Rest, president of the Samaritan Home for the Aged, director of the Babson Gravity Research Foundation and the Washington Institute for Biophysical Research. He was elected to the Alpine Club in 1913, and was President of the American Alpine Club 1935- 37, having joined in I92I. He was also a member of the Swiss, French and Italian Alpine Clubs, and an honorary member of the Yale, Harvard and Colorado Mountaineering Clubs. His climbing in the Alps began in 1906 and, in a span of fifty-seven years, included over 150 major ascents. He had done the Matterhorn six times, the last in I950. -
Accidents, 1949 245
ACCIDENTS, 1949 245 • • ACCIDENTS, 1949 THE climbing season of I949 was notable for fine weather and dry con ditions similar to those of I 94 7. Snow disappeared from rock faces which, like the final cone of the Hasli Jungfrau peak of the Wetterhorn, are very rarely exposed ; the glaciers showed bare ice even up to the level of Io,ooo ft. in some cases ; they were greatly crevassed, and so shrunken that it was often difficult to gain the flanks above their edges ; mountain faces and aretes were unusually free of snow~ arid the exposure of rotten tock caused innumerable stonefalls. The fine weather, the many new or enlarged huts, and the facilitation of the approaches by marked paths or even by cable lifts, attracted cro,vds of inexperienced tourists to the higher mountains, but it was noticeable that the propor tion of serious climbers was small. In these circumstances, the heavy death-roll which we have to lament was to be expected. The greatest ultimate cause of the fatal accidents was undoubtedly inexperience ; the most common immediate cause seems to have been stonefall ; but there were many instances of pure ' accident,' such as the disaster at Cham onix when the collapse of the lower part of the Tour glacier cost the lives of a number of innocent visitors. Another remarkable disaster was that caused by an unexpected storm on Mont Blanc on August I 1 ; and at the other extreme of chance, there were many curious causes of fatality, as in the case of a climber who unroped on the Dome de Roche fort and lost his balance whilst changing his shirt.