Gabrielle Olya Thesis
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Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion / Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu
UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO >PF>K>JBOF@>KP BOEUIF @RIQRO>IB@LKLJV PGC>PEFLK 5IVZ-JOI/HVZFO5V ARHBRKFSBOPFQVMOBPP AROE>J>KAILKALK ∫ 2011 Duke University Press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper $ Designed by Heather Hensley Typeset in Scala by Keystone Typesetting, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data appear on the last printed page of this book. To my mother CONTENTS acknowledgments ix introduction Fashion, Free Trade, and the ‘‘Rise of the Asian Designer’’ 1 Part I 1. Crossing the Assembly Line: Skills, Knowledge, and the Borders of Fashion 31 2. All in the Family? Kin, Gifts, and the Networks of Fashion 63 Part II 3. The Cultural Economy of Asian Chic 99 4. ‘‘Material Mao’’: Fashioning Histories Out of Icons 133 5. Asia on My Mind: Transnational Intimacies and Cultural Genealogies 169 epilogue 203 notes 209 bibliography 239 index 253 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book would not have been possible without the time, energy, and imagination of many friends, colleagues, and kind strangers. It is a pleasure to be able to acknowledge them here. I want to begin by thanking all the designers who allowed me to talk with them, hang around their shops, and learn from them. Knowing what I now know about the demands of their work, I am even more amazed that they could find so much time for me. Without their generosity, I would not have this story to tell. The seeds of this book were planted many years ago, but they really grew in conversation with the wonderful colleagues, at di√er- ent institutions, who have read, heard, or talked about these ideas with me, including Christine Balance, Luz Calvo, Derek Chang, Beth Coleman, Iftikhar Dadi, Maria Fernandez, Wen Jin, James Kim, Nhi Lieu, Christina Moon, Viranjini Munsinghe, Mimi Ngu- yen and Minh-Ha Pham (and their spot-on blog, Threadbared), Je√rey Santa Anna, Barry Shank, Julie Sze, Elda Tsou, K. -
2014-2015 Impact Report
IMPACT REPORT 2014-2015 INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S MEDIA FOUNDATION ABOUT THE IWMF Our mission is to unleash the potential of women journalists as champions of press freedom to transform the global news media. Our vision is for women journalists worldwide to be fully supported, protected, recognized and rewarded for their vital contributions at all levels of the news media. As a result, consumers will increase their demand for news with a diversity of voices, stories and perspectives as a cornerstone of democracy and free expression. Photo: IWMF Fellow Sonia Paul Reporting in Uganda 2 IWMF IMPACT REPORT 2014/2015 INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S MEDIA FOUNDATION IWMF BOARD OF DIRECTORS Linda Mason, Co-Chair CBS News (retired) Dear Friends, Alexandra Trower, Co-Chair We are honored to lead the IWMF Board of Directors during this amazing period of growth and renewal for our The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. Cindi Leive, Co-Vice Chair organization. This expansion is occurring at a time when journalists, under fire and threats in many parts of the Glamour world, need us most. We’re helping in myriad ways, including providing security training for reporting in conflict Bryan Monroe, Co-Vice Chair zones, conducting multifaceted initiatives in Africa and Latin America, and funding individual reporting projects Temple University that are being communicated through the full spectrum of media. Eric Harris, Treasurer Cheddar We couldn’t be more proud of how the IWMF has prioritized smart and strategic growth to maximize our award George A. Lehner, Legal Counsel and fellowship opportunities for women journalists. Through training, support, and opportunities like the Courage Pepper Hamilton LLP in Journalism Awards, the IWMF celebrates the perseverance and commitment of female journalists worldwide. -
Phenomenal Woman: Michelle Obama's Embodied Rhetoric And
Phenomenal Woman: Michelle Obama’s Embodied Rhetoric and the Cultural Work of Fashion Biographies Stefanie Schäfer ABSTRACT Michelle Obama’s role as the first black First Lady of the U.S. is contextualized in discourses of feminism and race, in the historical meaning of the First Lady, and in the world of fashion and celebrity. Her strategy in engaging these discourses is described here as an ‘embodied rhetoric,’ in which she caters to media attention but refuses to comment on her fashion choices, thereby creating a void for interpretation that is filled by a plethora of readings. Drawing from biography and iconicity theory as well as fashion and First Lady Studies, this article discusses three icon- ic appearances of Obama that demonstrate her stances on the First Lady’s role, black female stereotypes, and fashion as empowerment, respectively. It examines the cultural work of two genres of celebrity texts, biographies and fashion biographies, in order to extrapolate her ‘real’ character and historical meaning for American womanhood. Obama’s case illustrates the inter- dependence between iconic persona and public mythmaking: The First Lady’s ‘office’ serves as a template for the creation of an American fashion icon. As a consequence, the Presidency is no longer a solitary office, but one occupied by a First Couple ruling by political and fashion power. This article discusses three iconic appearances of Obama that comment on her First Lady role, on black female stereotypes, and on fashion as empowerment, respectively. It examines how bi- ographies and fashion biographies interpret these appearances in order to extrapolate her ‘real’ character and historical meaning for American womanhood. -
Penelope Rowlands
A Conversation with Penelope Rowlands enelope Rowlands’s biography of Carmel Snow, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and P Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters was one of the books that was most valuable to the curatorial team that put together The Women of Harper’s Bazaar, 1936-1958. In became the heavily Post- it noted Bible for all things Bazaar. In a fitting twist, Rowlands used FIT’s copies of Harper’s Bazaar that date from Snow’s tenure for her research, just as the curators did. Because Rowlands, a journalist, was working on a project in Paris, she wasn’t able to attend the exhibition. However, she made time to speak on the phone with one of the curators, Nancy MacDonell, also a journalist, to talk about Carmel Snow, the importance of a good editor in chief, and the current state of fashion journalism. The following is an edited, condensed version of their conversation. Nancy MacDonell: Thank you so much for agreeing to speak with me. Penelope Rowlands: Oh, you're welcome. I was thrilled to hear about the show. As you can imagine, I have a bias towards Carmel and I'm always happy to hear her getting some attention. NM: If someone has heard of any of these three women they've probably heard of Diana Vreeland. I think Carmel Snow was a more gifted editor, but she didn't get the recognition that Vreeland got. PR: Well, that's exactly true, and when I met with Richard Avedon that was one of my Questions, and he’s quoted in the book—that Carmel came along before fashion editors were stars. -
Ronald Davis Oral History Collection on the Performing Arts
Oral History Collection on the Performing Arts in America Southern Methodist University The Southern Methodist University Oral History Program was begun in 1972 and is part of the University’s DeGolyer Institute for American Studies. The goal is to gather primary source material for future writers and cultural historians on all branches of the performing arts- opera, ballet, the concert stage, theatre, films, radio, television, burlesque, vaudeville, popular music, jazz, the circus, and miscellaneous amateur and local productions. The Collection is particularly strong, however, in the areas of motion pictures and popular music and includes interviews with celebrated performers as well as a wide variety of behind-the-scenes personnel, several of whom are now deceased. Most interviews are biographical in nature although some are focused exclusively on a single topic of historical importance. The Program aims at balancing national developments with examples from local history. Interviews with members of the Dallas Little Theatre, therefore, serve to illustrate a nation-wide movement, while film exhibition across the country is exemplified by the Interstate Theater Circuit of Texas. The interviews have all been conducted by trained historians, who attempt to view artistic achievements against a broad social and cultural backdrop. Many of the persons interviewed, because of educational limitations or various extenuating circumstances, would never write down their experiences, and therefore valuable information on our nation’s cultural heritage would be lost if it were not for the S.M.U. Oral History Program. Interviewees are selected on the strength of (1) their contribution to the performing arts in America, (2) their unique position in a given art form, and (3) availability. -
Tattored Cover Press Release
MEDIA ADVISORY FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE - Thursday, December 5, 2013 Rana Florida's UPGRADE Named a Hardcover Best Seller by the Tattered Cover NEW YORK, NY - Rana Florida's recently released book, UPGRADE, has been named a Hardcover Best Seller by the Tattered Cover Bookstore, along aide Sheryl Sanberg's Lean In, Rath Thom's Strengthfinder 2.0 and Miki Agawal's Do Cool Sh*T. Tattered Cover Bookstore is one the largest independent bookstores in the U.S. About Upgrade: What can you learn from the masters of success? Andre Agassi, Nelly Furtado, and Mario Batali to Tony Hsieh, Tory Burch, Richard Illy, Daniel Pink, Zaha Hadid, and Maryland Governor Martin O’Malley - experts, luminaries, and stand-outs in their respective fields – reveal the keys to negotiating the confluence of work, life and play. Rana Florida shares their formulas, giving you the tools to achieve unimagined success, one small step at a time. UPGRADE: Taking Your Life from Ordinary to Extraordinary (September, 2013; Hardcover, $27.00) gathers the best practices not just from CEOs and business executives but from entrepreneurs, innovative thinkers, and creative leaders and presents their philosophies in simple and actionable terms that anyone can put to good effect in their professional or personal lives from day one. Florida interviewed successes from vastly different backgrounds and skills, and examined a host of other stand-outs in business and in life; her research concluded that there are seven key principles to achieving your business and life goals. UPGRADE examines these philosophies for living an Upgraded life, starting with that first great step: Envisioning Your Future. -
Rush Hour by Meenal Mistry NEW YORK — Among Civilians, It’S a Little-Known Fact, but Fashion Folk Are Actually a Hardy Bunch
FRANCES HITS FLA./2 WHAT THE LADIES ARE BUYING/4 Global Edition WWWomen’s Wear Daily • DTUESDAYThe Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 7, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Rush Hour By Meenal Mistry NEW YORK — Among civilians, it’s a little-known fact, but fashion folk are actually a hardy bunch. They are the practical sort who will let little stand in their way, especially when it comes to creating the potential 15- minute moment of glory that is the fashion show. That said, in preparing for this spring season, designers had two additional obstacles to accompany all the usual last-minute Carolina Herrera shares mayhem: an early start to fashion week, which will begin a a laugh with mere two days after Labor Day, and the Republican design director Herve Pierre National Convention, held right in the Garment District. Braillard. See Down, Page 6 PHOTO BY THOMASPHOTO BY IANNACCONE 2 WWD/GLOBAL, SEPTEMBER 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Fla. Retail Endures Frances Ready-to-Wear/Textiles PLANTATION, Fla. — Retail sorting through the destruction Group’s 27 Florida malls had GENERAL stores in Florida, after losing caused by hurricane Charley closed by Friday afternoon, said Now that the Republicans have left town, Seventh Avenue designers spent more than three shopping days when Frances began. Punta Les Morris, corporate spokesman. 1 the weekend getting ready for fashion week, which begins on Wednesday. due to hurricane Frances during Gorda and Port Charlotte Hurricane warnings were Having been pounded by hurricane Frances, Florida retailers, many closed the traditionally important seemed to take the brunt of lifted in Miami-Dade county by Labor Day sales weekend, began Charley’s wrath. -
Movie Time Descriptive Video Service
DO NOT DISCARD THIS CATALOG. All titles may not be available at this time. Check the Illinois catalog under the subject “Descriptive Videos or DVD” for an updated list. This catalog is available in large print, e-mail and braille. If you need a different format, please let us know. Illinois State Library Talking Book & Braille Service 300 S. Second Street Springfield, IL 62701 217-782-9260 or 800-665-5576, ext. 1 (in Illinois) Illinois Talking Book Outreach Center 125 Tower Drive Burr Ridge, IL 60527 800-426-0709 A service of the Illinois State Library Talking Book & Braille Service and Illinois Talking Book Centers Jesse White • Secretary of State and State Librarian DESCRIPTIVE VIDEO SERVICE Borrow blockbuster movies from the Illinois Talking Book Centers! These movies are especially for the enjoyment of people who are blind or visually impaired. The movies carefully describe the visual elements of a movie — action, characters, locations, costumes and sets — without interfering with the movie’s dialogue or sound effects, so you can follow all the action! To enjoy these movies and hear the descriptions, all you need is a regular VCR or DVD player and a television! Listings beginning with the letters DV play on a VHS videocassette recorder (VCR). Listings beginning with the letters DVD play on a DVD Player. Mail in the order form in the back of this catalog or call your local Talking Book Center to request movies today. Guidelines 1. To borrow a video you must be a registered Talking Book patron. 2. You may borrow one or two videos at a time and put others on your request list. -
FEBRUARY, 2012 Faith Lutheran Church New Providence, New
THE DIAPASON FEBRUARY, 2012 Faith Lutheran Church New Providence, New Jersey Cover feature on pages 26–28 Feb 2012 Cover.indd 1 1/13/12 10:18:30 AM Feb 2011 pp. 2-18.indd 2 1/13/12 10:20:43 AM THE DIAPASON Letters to the Editor A Scranton Gillette Publication One Hundred Third Year: No. 2, Whole No. 1227 FEBRUARY, 2012 St. Thomas Church Fifth Avenue cent years advocating for more “expres- Established in 1909 ISSN 0012-2378 It is my fervent hope that the Decem- siveness” in pipe organs, and exploring An International Monthly Devoted to the Organ, ber 2011 issue of The Diapason will see ways to enhance the expressive capabil- the Harpsichord, Carillon, and Church Music the last of the seemingly interminable ity of pipe organs. These schemes have discussions of one organ in one church. mostly focused on various arrangements Referring, of course, to the organ in of pipes enclosed behind swell shades. St. Thomas Church, New York City— This is the common approach, but it is CONTENTS Editor & Publisher JEROME BUTERA [email protected] the church known to be favored by the now time to think outside the swell box. 847/391-1045 wealthy and privileged. Conceptually, the usual method involves FEATURES In his (exceptionally lengthy) letter on controlling the volume of sound near its Jehan Alain masterclass by Helga Schauerte Associate Editor JOYCE ROBINSON this subject, Jonathan Ambrosino—refer- source. But also conceptually, it is pos- at Duquesne University [email protected] by Stephanie Sloan and Rebecca Marie Yoder 19 ring to the choir of this church—opines: sible to control the sound volume at 847/391-1044 “arguably the premier North American the listener. -
Inventory to Archival Boxes in the Motion Picture, Broadcasting, and Recorded Sound Division of the Library of Congress
INVENTORY TO ARCHIVAL BOXES IN THE MOTION PICTURE, BROADCASTING, AND RECORDED SOUND DIVISION OF THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Compiled by MBRS Staff (Last Update December 2017) Introduction The following is an inventory of film and television related paper and manuscript materials held by the Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recorded Sound Division of the Library of Congress. Our collection of paper materials includes continuities, scripts, tie-in-books, scrapbooks, press releases, newsreel summaries, publicity notebooks, press books, lobby cards, theater programs, production notes, and much more. These items have been acquired through copyright deposit, purchased, or gifted to the division. How to Use this Inventory The inventory is organized by box number with each letter representing a specific box type. The majority of the boxes listed include content information. Please note that over the years, the content of the boxes has been described in different ways and are not consistent. The “card” column used to refer to a set of card catalogs that documented our holdings of particular paper materials: press book, posters, continuity, reviews, and other. The majority of this information has been entered into our Merged Audiovisual Information System (MAVIS) database. Boxes indicating “MAVIS” in the last column have catalog records within the new database. To locate material, use the CTRL-F function to search the document by keyword, title, or format. Paper and manuscript materials are also listed in the MAVIS database. This database is only accessible on-site in the Moving Image Research Center. If you are unable to locate a specific item in this inventory, please contact the reading room. -
Fashioning Protection: a Note on the Protection of Fashion Designs in the United States
FASHIONING PROTECTION: A NOTE ON THE PROTECTION OF FASHION DESIGNS IN THE UNITED STATES by Julie P. Tsai∗ Current United States law does not offer fashion designs protection against design piracy. This Note reviews the current state of intellectual property protection for fashion designs, contends that fashion designs should be protected, and proposes a viable option for fashion design protection in the United States. I. INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................447 II. DESIGN PIRACY.....................................................................................449 III. PROTECTION FOR FASHION DESIGNS IN THE UNITED STATES ....................................................................................................451 A. Trademark and Trade Dress..............................................................453 B. Design Patent ....................................................................................455 C. Copyright...........................................................................................458 IV. FASHION DESIGNS SHOULD BE PROTECTED.................................461 A. Fashion Designs as Art......................................................................461 B. Competitive Markets..........................................................................463 C. The Berne Convention and the European Union...............................464 V. RECOMMENDED SOLUTION...............................................................465 A. Overview of -
Primary & Secondary Sources
Primary & Secondary Sources Brands & Products Agencies & Clients Media & Content Influencers & Licensees Organizations & Associations Government & Education Research & Data Multicultural Media Forecast 2019: Primary & Secondary Sources COPYRIGHT U.S. Multicultural Media Forecast 2019 Exclusive market research & strategic intelligence from PQ Media – Intelligent data for smarter business decisions In partnership with the Alliance for Inclusive and Multicultural Marketing at the Association of National Advertisers Co-authored at PQM by: Patrick Quinn – President & CEO Leo Kivijarv, PhD – EVP & Research Director Editorial Support at AIMM by: Bill Duggan – Group Executive Vice President, ANA Claudine Waite – Director, Content Marketing, Committees & Conferences, ANA Carlos Santiago – President & Chief Strategist, Santiago Solutions Group Except by express prior written permission from PQ Media LLC or the Association of National Advertisers, no part of this work may be copied or publicly distributed, displayed or disseminated by any means of publication or communication now known or developed hereafter, including in or by any: (i) directory or compilation or other printed publication; (ii) information storage or retrieval system; (iii) electronic device, including any analog or digital visual or audiovisual device or product. PQ Media and the Alliance for Inclusive and Multicultural Marketing at the Association of National Advertisers will protect and defend their copyright and all their other rights in this publication, including under the laws of copyright, misappropriation, trade secrets and unfair competition. All information and data contained in this report is obtained by PQ Media from sources that PQ Media believes to be accurate and reliable. However, errors and omissions in this report may result from human error and malfunctions in electronic conversion and transmission of textual and numeric data.