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Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion / Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu
UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO UIF #&"65*'6-HFOFSBUJPO >PF>K>JBOF@>KP BOEUIF @RIQRO>IB@LKLJV PGC>PEFLK 5IVZ-JOI/HVZFO5V ARHBRKFSBOPFQVMOBPP AROE>J>KAILKALK ∫ 2011 Duke University Press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper $ Designed by Heather Hensley Typeset in Scala by Keystone Typesetting, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data appear on the last printed page of this book. To my mother CONTENTS acknowledgments ix introduction Fashion, Free Trade, and the ‘‘Rise of the Asian Designer’’ 1 Part I 1. Crossing the Assembly Line: Skills, Knowledge, and the Borders of Fashion 31 2. All in the Family? Kin, Gifts, and the Networks of Fashion 63 Part II 3. The Cultural Economy of Asian Chic 99 4. ‘‘Material Mao’’: Fashioning Histories Out of Icons 133 5. Asia on My Mind: Transnational Intimacies and Cultural Genealogies 169 epilogue 203 notes 209 bibliography 239 index 253 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book would not have been possible without the time, energy, and imagination of many friends, colleagues, and kind strangers. It is a pleasure to be able to acknowledge them here. I want to begin by thanking all the designers who allowed me to talk with them, hang around their shops, and learn from them. Knowing what I now know about the demands of their work, I am even more amazed that they could find so much time for me. Without their generosity, I would not have this story to tell. The seeds of this book were planted many years ago, but they really grew in conversation with the wonderful colleagues, at di√er- ent institutions, who have read, heard, or talked about these ideas with me, including Christine Balance, Luz Calvo, Derek Chang, Beth Coleman, Iftikhar Dadi, Maria Fernandez, Wen Jin, James Kim, Nhi Lieu, Christina Moon, Viranjini Munsinghe, Mimi Ngu- yen and Minh-Ha Pham (and their spot-on blog, Threadbared), Je√rey Santa Anna, Barry Shank, Julie Sze, Elda Tsou, K. -
The Philippine Islands, 1493-1803
Accessions Shelf ^o. if.ri FRl&M THE |f htUti& JMnnit /^ '^a/^ 'immmasmfHitimm CAUTION Do not write in this book or mark it with pen or pencil. Penalties are imposed by the Revised Laws of the Commonwealth of Mas- sachusetts, Chapter 208, Section 83. B.P.L. FORM NO. 609; 6.24.26; 400H. '..miiBSitnmwjmimii' The PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 1493-1898 Explorations by Early Navigators, Descriptions of the Islands and their Peoples, their History and Records of the Catholic Missions, as related in contemporaneous Books and Manuscripts, showing the Political, Eco- nomic, Commercial and Religious Conditions of those Islands from their earliest relations with European Nations to the close of the Nineteenth Century TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINALS Edited and annotated by Emma Helen Blair and James Alexander Robertson, with historical intro- duction and additional notes by Edward Gaylord Bourne. With maps, portraits and other illustrations Volume XXXVII—166(^-1676 The Arthur H. Clark Company Cleveland, Ohio MCMVI no<* '.? CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXXVII Preface 9 Miscellaneous Documents, 1669- 1676 Events in Filipinas, 1668. [Unsigned; Francisco de Figueroa?] ; Manila, Jan- uary 15, 1669 23 The Dominicans in the Philippines, 1641- 69. Baltasar de Santa Cruz, O.P. ; 1676. [From his Historia.'] . .64 The Augustinians in the Philippines, 1641- 70. Casimiro Diaz, O.S.A. ; Manila, 1718. [From his Conquistas.^ . 149 Manila and the Philippines about 1650 (to be concluded) . Domingo Fernandez Navarrete, O.P. ; Madrid, 1676. [From his Tratados historicos.~\ . 285 Bibliographical Data 307 ILLUSTRATIONS Map of the Philippine Islands, showing prov- ince of the Order of the Hermits of St. Au- gustine; photographic facsimile of engraving in Lubin's Orbis Augustinianus. -
Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue and Price List of Stereopticons
—. ; I, £3,v; and Descriptive , Illustrated ;w j CATALOGUE AND PRICE LIST- t&fs — r~* yv4 • .'../-.it *.•:.< : .. 4^. ; • ’• • • wjv* r,.^ N •’«* - . of . - VJ r .. « 7 **: „ S ; \ 1 ’ ; «•»'•: V. .c; ^ . \sK? *• .* Stereopticons . * ' «». .. • ” J- r . .. itzsg' Lantern Slides 1 -f ~ Accessories for Projection Stereopticon and Film Exchange W. B. MOORE, Manager. j. :rnu J ; 104 to no Franlclin Street ‘ Washington . (Cor. CHICAGO INDEX TO LANTERNS, ETC. FOR INDEX TO SLIDES SEE INDEX AT CLOSE OF CATALOGUE. Page Acetylene Dissolver 28 Champion Lantern 3g to 42 “ Gas 60 Check Valve S3 •* 1 • .• Gas Burner.... ; 19 Chemicals, Oxygen 74, 81 ** < .' I j Gas Generator.. ; 61 to 66 Chirograph 136 “ Gas Generator, Perfection to 66 64 Chlorate of Potash, tee Oxygen Chemicals 74 Adapter from to sire lenses, see Chromatrope.... 164 Miscellaneous....... 174 Cloak, How Made 151 Advertising Slides, Blank, see Miscellaneous.. 174 ** Slides 38010,387 " Slides 144 Color Slides or Tinters .^140 “ Slides, Ink for Writing, see Colored Films 297 Miscellaneous, 174 Coloring Films 134 “ Posters * *...153 " Slides Alcohol Vapor Mantle Light 20A v 147 Combined Check or Safety Valve 83 Alternating.Carbons, Special... 139 Comic and Mysterious Films 155 Allen Universal Focusing Lens 124, 125 Comparison of Portable Gas Outfits 93, 94 America, Wonders cf Description, 148 “Condensing Lens 128 Amet's Oro-Carbi Light 86 to 92, 94 " Lens Mounting 128 •Ancient Costumes ....! 131 Connections, Electric Lamp and Rheostat... 96, 97 Approximate Length of Focus 123 " Electric Stage 139 Arc Lamp 13 to 16 Costumes 130 to 152, 380 to 3S7 ** Lamp and Rheostat, How to Connect 96 Cover Glasses, see Miscellaneous ,....174 Arnold's Improved Calcium Light Outfit. -
From Your Belly Flow Song-Flowers: Mexica Voicings in Colonial New Spain (Toward a Culturally-Informed Voice Theory and Practice)
FROM YOUR BELLY FLOW SONG-FLOWERS: MEXICA VOICINGS IN COLONIAL NEW SPAIN (TOWARD A CULTURALLY-INFORMED VOICE THEORY AND PRACTICE) by BETHANY MARIE BATTAFARANO A THESIS Presented to the School of Music and Dance and the Graduate School of the University of Oregon in partial fulfillment of requirements for the degree of Master of Arts March 2021 THESIS APPROVAL PAGE Student: Bethany Marie Battafarano Title: From Your Belly Flow Song-flowers: Mexica Voicings in Colonial New Spain (Toward a Culturally-informed Voice Theory and Practice) This thesis has been accepted and approved in partial fulfillment of the Master of Arts degree in the Department of Musicology by: Ed Wolf Chair Lori Kruckenberg Member Drew Nobile Member And Kate Mondloch Interim Vice Provost and Dean of the Graduate School Original approval signatures are on file with the University of Oregon Graduate School. Degree awarded March 2021. ii © 2021 Bethany Marie Battafarano This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs (United States) License. iii THESIS ABSTRACT Bethany Marie Battafarano Master of Arts School of Music and Dance March 2021 Title: From Your Belly Flow Song-flowers: Mexica Voicings in Colonial New Spain (Toward a Culturally-informed Voice Theory and Practice) In colonial New Spain, Indigenous peoples sang, played, and composed in western European musical styles, and Spanish composers incorporated Indigenous instruments, rhythms, and languages into their compositions. However, modern vocalists in the United States often overlook or misrepresent Indigenous features in performances of New Spanish repertoire. Vocalists typically must make choices about vocal techniques alone and, largely for lack of resources, in uninformed ways. -
Marygold Manor DJ List
Page 1 of 143 Marygold Manor 4974 songs, 12.9 days, 31.82 GB Name Artist Time Genre Take On Me A-ah 3:52 Pop (fast) Take On Me a-Ha 3:51 Rock Twenty Years Later Aaron Lines 4:46 Country Dancing Queen Abba 3:52 Disco Dancing Queen Abba 3:51 Disco Fernando ABBA 4:15 Rock/Pop Mamma Mia ABBA 3:29 Rock/Pop You Shook Me All Night Long AC/DC 3:30 Rock You Shook Me All Night Long AC/DC 3:30 Rock You Shook Me All Night Long AC/DC 3:31 Rock AC/DC Mix AC/DC 5:35 Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap ACDC 3:51 Rock/Pop Thunderstruck ACDC 4:52 Rock Jailbreak ACDC 4:42 Rock/Pop New York Groove Ace Frehley 3:04 Rock/Pop All That She Wants (start @ :08) Ace Of Base 3:27 Dance (fast) Beautiful Life Ace Of Base 3:41 Dance (fast) The Sign Ace Of Base 3:09 Pop (fast) Wonderful Adam Ant 4:23 Rock Theme from Mission Impossible Adam Clayton/Larry Mull… 3:27 Soundtrack Ghost Town Adam Lambert 3:28 Pop (slow) Mad World Adam Lambert 3:04 Pop For Your Entertainment Adam Lambert 3:35 Dance (fast) Nirvana Adam Lambert 4:23 I Wanna Grow Old With You (edit) Adam Sandler 2:05 Pop (slow) I Wanna Grow Old With You (start @ 0:28) Adam Sandler 2:44 Pop (slow) Hello Adele 4:56 Pop Make You Feel My Love Adele 3:32 Pop (slow) Chasing Pavements Adele 3:34 Make You Feel My Love Adele 3:32 Pop Make You Feel My Love Adele 3:32 Pop Rolling in the Deep Adele 3:48 Blue-eyed soul Marygold Manor Page 2 of 143 Name Artist Time Genre Someone Like You Adele 4:45 Blue-eyed soul Rumour Has It Adele 3:44 Pop (fast) Sweet Emotion Aerosmith 5:09 Rock (slow) I Don't Want To Miss A Thing (Cold Start) -
2014-2015 Impact Report
IMPACT REPORT 2014-2015 INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S MEDIA FOUNDATION ABOUT THE IWMF Our mission is to unleash the potential of women journalists as champions of press freedom to transform the global news media. Our vision is for women journalists worldwide to be fully supported, protected, recognized and rewarded for their vital contributions at all levels of the news media. As a result, consumers will increase their demand for news with a diversity of voices, stories and perspectives as a cornerstone of democracy and free expression. Photo: IWMF Fellow Sonia Paul Reporting in Uganda 2 IWMF IMPACT REPORT 2014/2015 INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S MEDIA FOUNDATION IWMF BOARD OF DIRECTORS Linda Mason, Co-Chair CBS News (retired) Dear Friends, Alexandra Trower, Co-Chair We are honored to lead the IWMF Board of Directors during this amazing period of growth and renewal for our The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. Cindi Leive, Co-Vice Chair organization. This expansion is occurring at a time when journalists, under fire and threats in many parts of the Glamour world, need us most. We’re helping in myriad ways, including providing security training for reporting in conflict Bryan Monroe, Co-Vice Chair zones, conducting multifaceted initiatives in Africa and Latin America, and funding individual reporting projects Temple University that are being communicated through the full spectrum of media. Eric Harris, Treasurer Cheddar We couldn’t be more proud of how the IWMF has prioritized smart and strategic growth to maximize our award George A. Lehner, Legal Counsel and fellowship opportunities for women journalists. Through training, support, and opportunities like the Courage Pepper Hamilton LLP in Journalism Awards, the IWMF celebrates the perseverance and commitment of female journalists worldwide. -
Ecce Mater Tua Vol. 1
Ecce Mater Tua A Journal of Mariology VOL. 1 January 1, 2018 Solemnity of Mary the Mother of God Editorial Board Editor Dr. Mark Miravalle, S.T.D. Franciscan University of Steubenville, Ohio Associate Editor Mr. Kevin Clarke, Ph.D. (cand.) Ave Maria University, Florida Advisory Board Msgr. Arthur Calkins, S.T.D. Vatican Ecclesia Dei, Emeritus Fr. Giles Dimock, O.P., S.T.D. Pontifical University of St. Thomas Aquinas (Angelicum), Emeritus Robert Fastiggi, S.T.D. Sacred Heart Major Seminary, Michigan Fr. Peter D. Fehlner, O.F.M. Conv. Ellicott City, Maryland Dr. Luis Bejar Fuentes Independent Editor and Journalist Mr. Daniel Garland, Jr., Ph.D. (cand.) Institute for Catholic Culture Scott Hahn, Ph.D. Franciscan University of Steubenville, Ohio Dr. Stephen Miletic Franciscan University of Steubenville, Ohio Christopher Malloy, Ph.D. University of Dallas, Texas John-Mark Miravalle, S.T.D. Mount St. Mary’s Seminary, Maryland Petroc Willey, Ph.D. Franciscan University of Steubenville, Ohio ii Ecce Mater Tua iii Ecce Mater Tua: A Journal of Mariology ISSN: 2573-5799 Instructions for Authors: To submit a paper for consideration, please first make sure that all personal references are stripped from the text and file properties, then email the document in Microsoft Word format (.doc or .docx) or in rich-text format (.rtf) to [email protected]. To ensure a smooth editorial process, please include a 250-350 word abstract at the beginning of the article, and be sure that formatting follows Chicago style. Ecce Mater Tua practices blind review. Submissions are evaluated anonymously by members of the editorial board and other scholars with appropriate expertise. -
Phenomenal Woman: Michelle Obama's Embodied Rhetoric And
Phenomenal Woman: Michelle Obama’s Embodied Rhetoric and the Cultural Work of Fashion Biographies Stefanie Schäfer ABSTRACT Michelle Obama’s role as the first black First Lady of the U.S. is contextualized in discourses of feminism and race, in the historical meaning of the First Lady, and in the world of fashion and celebrity. Her strategy in engaging these discourses is described here as an ‘embodied rhetoric,’ in which she caters to media attention but refuses to comment on her fashion choices, thereby creating a void for interpretation that is filled by a plethora of readings. Drawing from biography and iconicity theory as well as fashion and First Lady Studies, this article discusses three icon- ic appearances of Obama that demonstrate her stances on the First Lady’s role, black female stereotypes, and fashion as empowerment, respectively. It examines the cultural work of two genres of celebrity texts, biographies and fashion biographies, in order to extrapolate her ‘real’ character and historical meaning for American womanhood. Obama’s case illustrates the inter- dependence between iconic persona and public mythmaking: The First Lady’s ‘office’ serves as a template for the creation of an American fashion icon. As a consequence, the Presidency is no longer a solitary office, but one occupied by a First Couple ruling by political and fashion power. This article discusses three iconic appearances of Obama that comment on her First Lady role, on black female stereotypes, and on fashion as empowerment, respectively. It examines how bi- ographies and fashion biographies interpret these appearances in order to extrapolate her ‘real’ character and historical meaning for American womanhood. -
Penelope Rowlands
A Conversation with Penelope Rowlands enelope Rowlands’s biography of Carmel Snow, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and P Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters was one of the books that was most valuable to the curatorial team that put together The Women of Harper’s Bazaar, 1936-1958. In became the heavily Post- it noted Bible for all things Bazaar. In a fitting twist, Rowlands used FIT’s copies of Harper’s Bazaar that date from Snow’s tenure for her research, just as the curators did. Because Rowlands, a journalist, was working on a project in Paris, she wasn’t able to attend the exhibition. However, she made time to speak on the phone with one of the curators, Nancy MacDonell, also a journalist, to talk about Carmel Snow, the importance of a good editor in chief, and the current state of fashion journalism. The following is an edited, condensed version of their conversation. Nancy MacDonell: Thank you so much for agreeing to speak with me. Penelope Rowlands: Oh, you're welcome. I was thrilled to hear about the show. As you can imagine, I have a bias towards Carmel and I'm always happy to hear her getting some attention. NM: If someone has heard of any of these three women they've probably heard of Diana Vreeland. I think Carmel Snow was a more gifted editor, but she didn't get the recognition that Vreeland got. PR: Well, that's exactly true, and when I met with Richard Avedon that was one of my Questions, and he’s quoted in the book—that Carmel came along before fashion editors were stars. -
112 It's Over Now 112 Only You 311 All Mixed up 311 Down
112 It's Over Now 112 Only You 311 All Mixed Up 311 Down 702 Where My Girls At 911 How Do You Want Me To Love You 911 Little Bit More, A 911 More Than A Woman 911 Party People (Friday Night) 911 Private Number 10,000 Maniacs More Than This 10,000 Maniacs These Are The Days 10CC Donna 10CC Dreadlock Holiday 10CC I'm Mandy 10CC I'm Not In Love 10CC Rubber Bullets 10CC Things We Do For Love, The 10CC Wall Street Shuffle 112 & Ludacris Hot & Wet 1910 Fruitgum Co. Simon Says 2 Evisa Oh La La La 2 Pac California Love 2 Pac Thugz Mansion 2 Unlimited No Limits 20 Fingers Short Dick Man 21st Century Girls 21st Century Girls 3 Doors Down Duck & Run 3 Doors Down Here Without You 3 Doors Down Its not my time 3 Doors Down Kryptonite 3 Doors Down Loser 3 Doors Down Road I'm On, The 3 Doors Down When I'm Gone 38 Special If I'd Been The One 38 Special Second Chance 3LW I Do (Wanna Get Close To You) 3LW No More 3LW No More (Baby I'm A Do Right) 3LW Playas Gon' Play 3rd Strike Redemption 3SL Take It Easy 3T Anything 3T Tease Me 3T & Michael Jackson Why 4 Non Blondes What's Up 5 Stairsteps Ooh Child 50 Cent Disco Inferno 50 Cent If I Can't 50 Cent In Da Club 50 Cent In Da Club 50 Cent P.I.M.P. (Radio Version) 50 Cent Wanksta 50 Cent & Eminem Patiently Waiting 50 Cent & Nate Dogg 21 Questions 5th Dimension Aquarius_Let the sunshine inB 5th Dimension One less Bell to answer 5th Dimension Stoned Soul Picnic 5th Dimension Up Up & Away 5th Dimension Wedding Blue Bells 5th Dimension, The Last Night I Didn't Get To Sleep At All 69 Boys Tootsie Roll 8 Stops 7 Question -
Composers for the Pipe Organ from the Renaissance to the 20Th Century
Principal Composers for the Pipe Organ from the Renaissance to the 20th Century Including brief biographical and technical information, with selected references and musical examples Compiled for POPs for KIDs, the Children‘s Pipe Organ Project of the Wichita Chapter of the American Guild of Organists, by Carrol Hassman, FAGO, ChM, Internal Links to Information In this Document Arnolt Schlick César Franck Andrea & Giovanni Gabrieli Johannes Brahms Girolamo Frescobaldi Josef Rheinberger Jean Titelouze Alexandre Guilmant Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck Charles-Marie Widor Dieterich Buxtehude Louis Vierne Johann Pachelbel Max Reger François Couperin Wilhelm Middelschulte Nicolas de Grigny Marcel Dupré George Fredrick Händel Paul Hindemith Johann Sebastian Bach Jean Langlais Louis-Nicolas Clérambault Jehan Alain John Stanley Olivier Messiaen Haydn, Mozart, & Beethoven Links to information on other 20th century composers for the organ Felix Mendelssohn Young performer links Fanny Mendelssohn Hensel Pipe Organ reference sites Camille Saint-Saëns Credits for Facts and Performances Cited Almost all details in the articles below were gleaned from Wikipedia (and some of their own listed sources). All but a very few of the musical and video examples are drawn from postings on YouTube. The section of J.S. Bach also owes credit to Corliss Arnold’s Organ Literature: a Comprehensive Survey, 3rd ed.1 However, the Italicized interpolations, and many of the texts, are my own. Feedback will be appreciated. — Carrol Hassman, FAGO, ChM, Wichita Chapter AGO Earliest History of the Organ as an Instrument See the Wikipedia article on the Pipe Organ in Antiquity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipe_Organ#Antiquity Earliest Notated Keyboard Music, Late Medieval Period Like early music for the lute, the earliest organ music is notated in Tablature, not in the musical staff notation we know today. -
Quartier Du Petit-Puy (Saumur 49)
A la découverte du Quartier du Petit-Puy (Saumur 49) Dossier compilé par le service Ville d'art et d'histoire de Saumur, avec l'aide de Monsieur Bernard Rousseau, membre du Conseil des Sages de la ville de Saumur, à l'occasion de la rencontre paysage du 8 juin 2011. Origine du nom et bref historique Le quartier du Petit-Puy, à l’est de la ville de Saumur, a longtemps été rattaché à la paroisse de Dampierre comme celui du Grand-Puy, son proche voisin, aujourd’hui entièrement disparu. C’est tout d’abord un hameau rural, situé sur le bord et l’à pic du coteau, dont le nom dérivant du latin podium signifie « petite colline ». Pauvre en terres labourables et coiffé de quelques moulins à vent à partir du XVI e siècle, il est surtout peuplé de petits propriétaires possédant caves, dépendances et jardins clos. Divisé en trois parties inégales, il se compose du « petit Puy (Pui) », des « Frogers » mesurant « 59 boissellées » soit 3,888 ha et les Varannes d’une surface de 7,380 ha. Soixante et un propriétaires paient leurs rentes en 1671, et soixante-dix-huit en 1768, les Frogers étant de loin la portion la moins partagée avec 2 à 3 possesseurs seulement pour une superficie représentant la moitié « des Varannes », dédiées à une trentaine de personnes. Prêtre, officier, meunier, marchands, boulanger, vignerons constituent la population « possédante » de cette banlieue verte à l’est du faubourg de Fenêt. Propice à l’habitat troglodytique, le site l’est aussi à la culture de la vigne, comme tout le terroir argilo-calcaire du Saumurois.