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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS companionship and opinions, and also to Sally Many thanks to the travelers who used Blake, Jimena Moses, Andy Symington and the last edition and wrote to us with Marina Charles for their contributions. helpful hints, useful advice and interesting Un beso grande to my godmother, Elsa, and anecdotes: her son Jorge for their hospitality. Love to Fung Bettina Becker, Arturo Costa, Loli Delger, Alex- and David Bao, and to Daniel for their support andra Goller, Cathy McCloy, Eben Pullman. over the years. Finally, lots of love to my hus- band, Ben Greensfelder, for keeping our home in good order while I was away. AUTHOR THANKS Sandra Bao ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I’m grateful for the support of my excellent Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, (and now ex) commissioning editor Kathleen Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Munnelly – best of luck in your future adven- World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas- tures, Kathleen; I’ll miss you. Also many thanks sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sci- to Graciela and Silvia Guzmán, who kept me ences, 11, 1633¬44. entertained with their raucous company. This Cover photograph: Tango dancers’ feet, book wouldn’t be the fine thing that it is with- Hervé Hughes/Alamy© out the help of Lucas M, Sylvia Z, Alan S, Madi L, Jed R and Dan P – you all know who you are. A big gracias to Gustavo and Miriam for their 226 THIS BOOK Coordinating Editors Assisting Cartographer Sarah Bailey, Tracy Whitmey Julie Dodkins This 7th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographer Mark Cover Research Naomi BEHIND THE SCENES Planet’s Buenos Aires Griffiths Parker guidebook was researched Book Designer Clara Language Content and written by Sandra Bao. Monitto, Virginia Moreno, Branislava Vladisavljevic The 6th edition was written Wendy Wright by Sandra Bao and Bridget Associate Product Direc- Thanks to Anita Banh, Elin Gleeson, and the 5th edition tors Sasha Baskett, Angela Berglund, Ljubomir Ceranic, by Sandra Bao. This guide- Tinson Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, book was commissioned Senior Editor Catherine Anna Harris, Genesys India, in Lonely Planet’s Oakland Naghten, Karyn Noble Jouve India, Anne Mason, office, and produced by the Assisting Editors Michelle Martine Power, Amanda following: Bennett, Kate Evans, Carly Williamson Commissioning Editor Hall Kathleen Munnelly ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 227 SeeSee also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P230 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P230 3 ENTERTAINMENT P231 7 SHOPPING P231 24 SPORTS SLEEPING & ACTIVITIES P232 Index 4 SLEEPING P232 shopping 123 Cementerio de la Chacarita Congreso 55, 76-83, 76, A sights 117, 118-19 118 240 accommodations 15, 162- transport 116 Cementerio de la Recoleta accommodations 166-8 74, see also individual 7, 117, 6, 117 neighborhoods, Sleeping walks 122 drinking & nightlife 77, Center 54, 56-70, subindex bars 32-3, see also indi- 56, 81-2 69, 236 apartments 166 vidual neighborhoods,, entertainment 77, 82-3 Drinking & Nightlife accommodations 165-6 estancias 160 food 77, 80-1 subindex, drinking & nightlife 57, language 218 highlights 76, 78 Basílica de Nuestra Señora 67-8 shopping 83 websites 15 del Pilar 118, 85 entertainment 57, 68 activities 48-51, see also in- sights 78, 79-80 Basílica de Santísimo food 57, 63-6 transport 77 dividual neighborhoods, Sacramento 109 Sports & Activities highlights 56, 58-60 consulates 209-10 basketball 49 subindex shopping 68-70 Convento de Santo Domingo bathrooms 216 Aeroparque Airport 203 sights 58-60, 61-3 90 beer 179 air travel 202-3 transport 57 cooking courses 30 Bergoglio, Jorge Mario 62 Amaral, Tarsila do 128 walks 69 Corbeta Uruguay 75 Biblioteca Nacional 131 ambulance 210 Centro Cultural Borges 61 cosmetic surgery 121 bicycling, 10, 13, 50-1, apartments 166 Centro Cultural del costs 14, 25, 163, 209, 215 72, 127, arbolitos 107, 213 Bicentenario 13, 61 courses boat travel 203 architecture 199-200 Centro Cultural Recoleta cooking 30 books, 20, 176, 180, 181, see 118 Archivo Regional (Colonia) also literature language 211 159 Centro Cultural Ricardo Borges, Jorge Luis 195 Rojas 80 tango 42 area codes 215-16 Bosques de Palermo Centro Cultural San Martín Creamfields festival 21 art 198-9 129, 11 80 credit cards 212 fileteado porteño 105, Boudou, Amado 186 Centro Islámico Rey Fahd Critical Mass 204 104-5 bus travel 13, 204-5 131 cultural centers 217 street art 144, 144-5 business hours 25, 33, 37, chemists 212 culture 177 asado 25, 24 46, 214 chess 87 currency 14 ATMs 212 children, travel with 22-3 blue market 213 Chinese New Year 20 customs regulations 209 C B Cabildo 60 churches, see individual cycling 10, 13, 50-1, 72, 127 churches bargaining 46 cafes 33, see also individual Barrio Norte 55, 115-23, neighborhoods, Drinking cinema 20, 36-7, 196-7, see also films D 115, 246 & Nightlife subindex, dangers 59, 203, 214-15 Eating subindex circo moderno 37 accommodations 170-1 Delta, the 153-5 car travel 205-6 climate 15 drinking & nightlife 116, Dirty War 182-3 120-1 Carnaval 20 Club Atlético Memorial 94 disabilities, travelers with clubbing 33, see also indi- entertainment 121 cartoneros 80 216 food 116, 119-20 Casa Brandon 32 vidual neighborhoods, Drinking & Nightlife discounts 37, 209 Casa Nacarello (Colonia) highlights 115-16, 117 subindex dog walkers 131 159 Colección de Arte Amalia drinking & nightlife 32-5, Casa Rosada 59-60 Lacroze de Fortabat see also individual Catedral Metropolitana 60 74, neighborhoods, Drinking Sights 000 85 cathedrals, see individual & Nightlife subindex, Colonia 157-61, 158 Map Pages 000 cathedrals concierge services 210 drinks 28-9, see also beer, Photo Pages 000 cell phones 14, 215 mate, wine 228 driving 205-6 steak 9, 27 transport 57 Duarte, Eva 124, 182 124 tours 19, 27 K walks 69 Kirchner, Cristina Fernán- Fragata Sarmiento 75 milongas 42-3, see also dez de 176-7, 186-7 free attractions 19 tango Kirchner, Néstor 185-6 E mobile phones 14, 215 economy 176 Fundación Proa 101 money 14, 25, 107, 163, Edificio Kavanagh 109 fútbol 9, 48-9, 8 INDEX L 209, 212-13 El Caminito 11, 11, 22, 100 La Boca 55, 98-103, 98, Montserrat 56, 236 El Zanjón de Granados 89 G 244 accommodations 165-6 E-M electricity 209 Galerías Pacíficos 61, 5 drinking & nightlife 99 drinking & nightlife 57, embassies 209-10 Galtieri, General Leopoldo entertainment 103 67-8 183-4 emergencies 210 food 99, 102-3 entertainment 57, 68 Gardel, Carlos 188, 189 entertainment 36-8, see highlights 98-9, 100 food 57, 63-6 also tango, individual gardens, see parks & shopping 103 highlights 56, 58-60 neighborhoods, Enter- gardens sights 100, 101-2 shopping 68-70 tainment subindex gaucho museum 149 tours 207 sights 58-60, 61-3 ESMA 183 gauchos 21, 149 transport 99 transport 57 estancias 160 gay travelers 21, 32, 210 language 218-24 walks 69 ethnicity 177 golf 51 events 20-1, 32, 33-4 courses 211 motorcycle travel 205 Evita 59, see also Peron, Latin American Spanish Museo Argentino de Maria Eva Duarte de H 218-24 Ciencias Naturales 148 health 210 Ezeiza Airport 202 legal matters 211 Museo Argentino del heladerías 28 lesbian travelers 21, Títere 23 Hipódromo Argentino 129 32, 210 Museo Beatle 80 F historic places 18-19 literature 194-6, see also Museo Casa Carlos Gardel Facultad de Ingenieria history 178-87 books 148 90, 119 Dirty War 182-3 live music 36 Museo Casa de Ricardo Faena Arts Center 74 Rojas 131 economic crisis 184-5 locutorios 215 Falklands War 184 Museo de Armas 109 independence 179-80 lunfardo 220 Faro (Colonia) 159 Museo de Arte Spanish colonisation Contemporáneo fashion 20, 141 178-9 Buenos Aires 89 Feria de Mataderos 149, 12 M Peróns, the 181-2 Madres de la Plaza de ferias 45, 88 Museo de Arte Hispano- holidays 214 Mayo 58, 70 americano Isaac festivals 20-1, 32, 33-4 horse racing 50 Manzana de las Luces Fernández Blanco 110 fileteado porteño 105, horseback riding 51 62-3 Museo de Arte Latino- 104-5 hostels 162, see also Maradona, Diego Armando americano de Buenos film 196 Sleeping subindex 102 Aires (Malba) 12, 128, festivals 20 hotels 162, see also Sleep- Marcha del Orgullo Gay 32 12, 128 films 176, 182 ing subindex markets 45, 88 Museo de Arte Moderno de fire services 210 Martín, Benito Quinquela Buenos Aires (Mamba) 89 Floralis Genérica 119, 4 100 I Museo de Arte Popular food 13, 24-31, 177, mate 28-9, 28 ice cream 28 José Hernández 131 see also individual measures 211 Iglesia Matriz (Colonia) 159 Museo de Arte Tigre (Tigre) neighborhoods, Eating media 211 subindex Iglesia Nuestra Señora de 154 medical services 211-12 closed-door restaurants Belén 90 Museo