WORLD- WIDE WEB: P.4 ASH KHABARNA1: p.16 FOM Souk: . p.24 ~ . "

A Newsletter

Another Holiday on the Horizon

Ramadan, celebrated by the world's 1.2 billion Moslems, will begin around 21 January, this year, with The 29th of February through 3 Presentations will include the partici- the exact time and date depending March 1996, are dates to mark on pation of Peace Corps, the Embassy on local time zones and lunar condi- your calendaras soon as possible. of Morocco, the U. S. State Depart- tions. ment, USAID, the Tangier-American 1 March 1996 will be the 35th an- Legation Museum Society, W. Res- The traditional month of fast in Is- niversary of the signing of the act sell Pickering of Moroccan Rug and lamic beliefs, it is celebrated in by that authorized the Textile Insti- the faithful in nearly every country on Peace Corps. tute, the the globe. new English Friends of Morocco language AI The Council on American-Islamic will be there, and we . . Akhawayn Relations says that some people hope that you'll be University may loose weight during Ramadan, able to join us there, at Ifrane, ; but most wi II not. The Council said in too. We are planning the VOA It an intelView with Scripps Howard a Saturday 2, March and Arab )r News SelVices that "it is recom- 1996, assembly be- Network of al mended that meals eaten during Ra- tween 1 hOO and 8hOO, America, as madan be light, but most people for films, music, pre- well as can't resist sampling special sweets sentations, and a Mo- many others ~\j.1 and food associated with Ramadan." roccan meal. The theme is or~C Moroccan education and cu"ure in A 1 March dinner honoring Sargent ~ the United States. ...&1\ "ti~ \ , Frl.nd- «>f' ~«>r«>cc«> 6 Winter 95/96

Talis Productions has announced Moroccans through their weaving between Moroccans and South- a multimedia event that is being traditions; the culture and family western Native Americans; developed for public television life of American Indians in the African, Jewish, and Middle East- entitled Threads of Two Cultures. . Southwest U.S. through their ern influence on Moroccan weav- weaving traditions; and a compar- ing; and Moorish influence on It is a cross-cultural study of rural ative study of those cultures. Navajo weaving. Moroccan and Southwestern Amer- The project is ican Indian weaving currently in the traditions, with a fund-raising goal of educating phase,develop- millions of children ing major corpo- and adults through- rate production out the Western support, a pro- world. cessthat should be completedby The project includes April. a two-hour film doc- umentary hosed and For more infor- narrated by Morgan mation (or if you Freeman, with the would like to un- heart of the film derwrite the pro- being expeditions to Morocco and Also covered in the program, will gram, contact Jefferson Hyde, the American Southwest. Three be the history and present-day Talis Productions, 308 Alta integrated museum exhibitions culture of Morocco; the Moroccan Street, Santa Fe NM 87505, will also be created, one of those tradition of racial tolerance; the 505.984.5052. being -an exhitjtion on the Inter- histories, customs, and music tra- net. ditions of the specifi c tri bespeople visited; the religious traditions of Also included will be a companion Morocco and Southwestern art book, an interactive CD, a American Indians; the historical music CD from the soundtrack, connections betNeen the U. S. and an electronic field trip broad- and Morocco; the Spanish link be- cast to U.S. schools. tween Morocco and the South- west U.S.; the similarities The three main subjects of The between Moroccan and South- Threadsof Two Cultures,will be western Native American beliefs; the culture and family life of rural possible pre-Columbian contact -~

~A Richard Holbrooke (Rabat 69:'71, .and if they don't release the his return to New York is behind PC Country Director) has contin- hostages,bomb them to hell." his original schedule. ued his not-50-low profile over the past year. as head of the negotia- A Washington Post editorial, re- Dick will continue to play an advi- tions team for the Bosnian/Serb sponding to the constant "digs" at sory role on Bosnia, possibly un- peace. Dick, said that, "it's not as though dertaking diplomatic missions to Dick Holbrooke had offended the the region after his resignation. Making front page and lead story sensibilities of a modest, re- appearances in The New Vorl< strained, self-effacing community Times Magazine, Newsweek, and here. This is Newt Grigrich'stown about every other current events and yours, too. Yes, Mr. Hol- publication, as well as on all of the brooke is a tough customer. Evi- wire services, television, and dently that's what the diplomacy radio, Dick has come a long way called fro. Always including the since her wrote, as called by the Balkan caveat-things could go Washington Post, an "admiring from bad to terrible at a moment's magazine profile of Henry notice-we think he has done one Kissinger" twenty years ago. De- heck of a job and should be com- scribing Kissinger as "an ex- mended for it-period." tremely difficult man, difficult to trust, difficult to work for..." Hol- Since the negotiations, it has brooke has been described by been rumored that Dick will leave similar phrases by both admires the State Department, going back and detractors within and without to Wall Street. The rumors an- the Clinton Administration. swered with denials or "cannot confirm." His success in arriving at a Bosnian peace (however unsta- A Washington Post year-end arti- ble the area may continue to cle seems to have confirmed the seem) is a testimony to his "fre- relocation, saying that netic as usual" negotiations "...(Holbrooke) told President where he "...shouted, whispered, Clinton that he will leave his post and threatened, even to excess." of assistant secretary of state for (says the NY Times). An exam- European affairs 'early next year' ple. when the Serbs seized UN to spend more time with his wife hostages in May, "Holbrooke ex- and family in New York. Inatele- ploded: 'Give the Serbs 48 hours, phone interview, he confided that

..u -81\ ",\.i~ \ Frlend- ' ~~ "~r~cc~ 8 Winter 95/96 Chicago/casablanca Sister Cities program "A constantly Developing Relationship"

Since 1892,Chicago has shared is a partnership with the Depart- a sister city relationship with ment of Pediatrics of the Univer- Casablanca.Since that time,'the sity of Illinois Hospital and Chicago-Casablanca Sister Medical School, and the Pediatric Though it may be nothing more than CitiesCommittee. has sponsored Department of the Ibn Rochd the stuff urban legends are made of, exchangesinvolving youth, cul- Hospital in Casablanca. the following was excerpted from a 7 ture.and business. January 1996, Dear Abby c~umn. The long-termgoal of the project though it's almost too delightful notto In the summer of 1994, the Com- is to providethe Casablancahos- have been embellished over the mittee organized a community pital with the technologyand ex- years. It was a response to an article youth service project, that in- pertise of the U of I, in terms of on the etiquette of eating asparagus. volved inviting seven Chicago neonataland pediatric care. teenagers and seven Casablanca "Dear Abby:... ~i/e growing up in teenagers to volunteer for three The Chicago Sister Cities I nt~ Paris, my mother, who was a weeks at Casa's Lalla Hasna or- tional Program, Inc., has as its debutante, attended a cinner phanage. An exhibit touring mission, "to engage the people of given by French President Ray- Chicago public high schools was Chicago and its sister cities mond Poincare at the Elysee created with the students' sou- abroad in partnerships that pro- Palace for the King of Morocco. venir photos and journals. mote trade, economic develop- Asparagus vinaigrette was ment, cultural awareness, and served. Everybody waited for the Other activities have included educationalopportunities." Kingtoiryit. He did, blAfoundthe business-ta-businesstrade mis- tough end too tough. He looked sions, a sister-citiespoetry com- For more information, contact the around to see what other people petition. local lectures/slide Chicago Sister Cities Interna- did with it, but of course, everyone sfJows,and a visit to Chicagoby tional Program, Inc., Chicago De- was waiting for him. So when he six Moroccangovernors. partment of Cultural Affairs, 78 E. thought no one was watching, he Washington Street, Chicago IL tossed the tou~ end over his The Committee'scurrent project 60602,312.744.8074. shoulder. The other guests, think- ing that was a Moroccan custom, did the same.

Soon the floor around the table became so slippery, none of the sefVers could get near the table. The rest of the dinner was a disas- ter-and to this day, the dinner for the K;ng of Morocco at the Elysee Palace has taken its place ;n h;s- tory. H Winter 95/96 9

"Today, the former shanty In an effor1to develop the Tangier collections of books from Ambas- dlvellers live in neat homes American Legation Museum sador Joseph Verner Reed and (TALM) into a research cente.~ anthropologist David Hart. Both in mixed income neighbor- hoods with shops and and specialized library on Nor1h have amassed unique libraries on schooIs. " Africa, director Thor H. Kuniholm Morocco and North Africa. is seeking funding for a full-time David Hales writes in the Ann librarian to assume responsibility To date, all has been achieved Arbor News that only a decade for the libraries and the facility, exclusively through the efforts of ago, Taza was a "dense concen- and to assist with the planning and the director, his family, and volun- tration of corrugated tin slum implementation of cultural and teers from the Tangier Moroccan, dwellings blighted by 25 different educational activities. Peace Corps, and expatriate shanty settlements that housed communities. over 1/4 of its 100.000 residents." The TALM has begun The next five Today, with no slums, the Taza transform- years will seethe improvement project has re- ing from a cataloging of the ceived the pretigious World Habi- simple Hart and Reed tat Award for Best Human tourist at- Collections. Settlements Project. In the traction into proper cata- 1980s, Taza residents asked for a dynamic loging of the re- help from the new Moroccan Na- cultural, educational, and re- source center, integration of all tional Shelter Agency-which search center serving both local collections into an automated cat- turned to the USAID. The result and international researchers and alog, establishment of a new book was a remarkable partnership be- scholars. fund, expansion of cultural pro- tween government, the commu- grams at the museum, publication nity, the private sector, and PCV-Michael Toler has estab- of materials relating to the mu- USAID. lished a resource center which seum and its collections, and in- now housesmore than 2,000 do- creased outreach to local and The Moroccan government con- nated books and periodicals. international academic commu- tributed public land and private Hundreds of local students and nities. contractors and laborers pre- teachers now rely on the center pared the sites, employing the for materialsand courses in areas The current fund drive requires an shanty dwellers. The residents as diverse as literature,transla- income of $9,000.00 annually, to then built their own homes, with tion, writing, and American cul- fund a full-time librarian, with technical help from the Moroccan ture. salary and benefits competitive in government. the local market. Similar advances have been Financial assistance came in the made in the North Africa research For more information, contact the form of a USAID-backed' U.S. library. Space was recently TALM at 8ZankatAmerica, Tang- commercial loan to Morocco. cleared to house two important ier 90000 Morocco. f .t' - - ~~I ~\.iJ..tl4' , Frl.nd- C>~ ~c>rc>ccc> TAZA

Every dollar invested by USAID generatedover six dollars of in- vestment from the residents of Abdelwahab Doukkali is one of the great stars of the Arab world and Taza. a true renaissance man. Born in 1941, to one of the most traditional families of Fez. he showed great interest in the arts at a very young The transformation has allowed age. In 1957 he revealed his musical talent by winning first prize on people who built the houses to a radio show, singing a song made famous by Mohammed Abdelwa- now tum their attention to other hab, Annahr AI Khalid. economic opportunities: opening shops or starting up family busi- By age 17, he had organized a theatrical group called La Maamoura. nesses. A sense of optimism now I n the 1960s, he performed in The Sarber of Seville and La Maison pervades in Taza. Nett. He toured the Middle East, living in Egypt for a while, and re- turning to Morocco in 1965, when he starred in the full-length Moroc- As a result of the Taza experi- can movie AI Hayatou Kifah (The State of Life). He followed that with ence, the percentage of Moroc- a film produced jointly by Morocco, Spain, and Egypt. He also acted co's bidonville residents has been in a Ubyan movie Feu Vert. cut in half. What is remarkable is that this change is coming at a Soon after, he composed, and played, his First Concerto for Lute time when migration from the and Modem Orchestra. He Also wrote musicalscores for Hamlet countryside has created huge and Idriss Premier. growth in Moroccan cities. In 1985 and 1993, Doukkali participated in the first Moroccan Music U. S. aid was not in the form of Festival, receiving first prize. He received high praise in 1986, for money, it was in the form of loan his performances at the I ntemational Artistic Gala in Sweden. guarantees to the Moroccan gov- ernment, providing working capi- He has also exhibitedhis potteryand ceramicsin Casablancagal- tal for the project. Morocco paid leries. back the loans, with interest and a rJlodest management fee. In recognition of his many achievements, in 1991, he was elected one of the Arab World's Personalities of the Year, along with King Thirty percentof costswere cov- Fahd of Saudi Arabia and James Baker. ered by the Morocco Shelter Agency. and USAID monitored He is now writing five motion picture scripts, and has recently com- the projectto assurethat the aid pleted (after three years of work) his record album Trou dans l'Es- reached directly to those for pace (Blad< Hole), which expresses universal values of whomit wasintended. brotherhood.

The lessonslearned at Taza are now beingapplied to other parts of Morocco,and to other coun- - ."".tries receivingU. S. aid. ~ ~,. Winter 95/96 11

News reports from Morocco via the Moroccanand InternationalPress

-Wire Reports from Rabat say that an Egyptian man into southern Europe, creating a racist right backlash. As seriously injured himself when he set off a bomb he had a result, it is believed that the gates to illegal immigration carried into the Russian consufate-iriMarch, 1995. A mo- should be sealed now, and economic aid should be given tive is not clear, though official sources said that the to North Africa and the Middle East to create opportunity Egyptian set off the bomb when he failed to get a Russian there, for those countries, and in turn create a European- visa. Other reports suggested that he wanted to protest Mediterranean free trade zone. The area is seen by Russia's crackdown in Chechnya. some industry as an untapped market, while being a source of inexpensive labor. On the other hand, prop- -Middle East Insight (February 1995) has an ar1icle ping up govern- called Under the Shadow of the Imam: Morocw's ments that are often Diverse Islamic Movements, by Emad Eldin Shahin. The unpopular with their article says that even with the many clandestine activi- own citizenry, could ties of some Islamic groups, that H.M. King Hassan II's bring conditions be- strong religious legitimacy keeps local Islamic move- tween Europe and mentsweak. It further states that Morocco'shistory of the Mediterranean pluralism prevents a radicalization of political discourse. similar to those be- I Shahin says that Morocco need not fear that it will turn tween the U. S. and into another Algeria in the event of an Islamic movement Iran after the fall of gaining popularity, because Islamist movements face the Shah. competition from numerous religious currents in society. Dr. Shahin has taught North African Government and -Food & Wine

Politics at George Washington University, and is cur- in- " L"'. ' (October 1995) "uuuI ,my 0 Id "' Iend ' Com~ ,n,Come in!. rently writing a book on Islam and society in the Maghreb. cludes an article ti- H3Ve you traveled far/'" tied A Moroccan in -Utne ~eader (October 1995) includes an article titled Paris, It is about Fatima Hal, who has established a very Looking South, North Africa may hold the key to Europe's popular restaurant called Mansouria (named after her future. With post cold war changes in Europe, some of mother), She opened the restaurant in 1984, after being the EU's member nations are orienting themselves to recently divorced, unemployed, and penniless in Paris, North Africa (others are looking to the former Warsaw with a need to support herself and three young children. Pact states), in an effort to improve economic conditions Hal had been given an education by her mother (a very with the Maghreb. The motivation is for the orientation is traditional, veiled Moroccan woman) because her called a combination of fear, greed, historical memory, mother wanted to free her from the obligations of con- farsightedness, and simple geography. Spain is only ten ventional roles. Because she was educated, her mother miles from Morocco and its former "protector", France, thought she shouldn't cook, so she was not allowed in the has more than 4 million Moslems. All of southern Europe kitchen. Originally, Hal sold $20.00 coupons to friends has large populations of unauthorized immigrants. The and acquaintances, good for a full course Moroccan din- fundamentalist movements in North Africa is creating ner in what she hoped would become her restaurant. A fears that the problems may cross the Mediterranean Paris newscaster heard of her initiative and featured her

. ~u -:81\ &.\i~\ '..,.., Frl_nd- ~# ~~r~cc~

~ News reports from Morocco via the Moroccanand InternationalPress

on one of his 'TV programs. The response was over- drastic cuts in their catch, and banning any fishing whelming, with contributions pouring in. She will be during negotiations. The feud is affecting 8,000 releasing her first book soon, Les Gestes et Les Spanish fishermen and 40,000 other Spanish jobs. Saveurs Cuisines et Traditions du Maroc (Stock Edi- EU optimists, however, say that if you dangle the tions). The book will contain traditional regional carrot of assistance, who knows what can be recipes that she has collected throughout Morocco. achieved. Those optimists say that with such assis- Her mother's name, by the way. means "the victori- tance agreements throughout the region, there may ous one." Mansouria is located at 11 rue Faidherbe, be by the year 2010, a European-Mediterranean Paris 75011 . 43.71.00.16, on the edge of the Bastille free-trade area, "...with economic prosperity and po- district. The article is written by Stephanie Curtis and litical stability on both sides of the Mediterranean. photographed by Bruno Barbey. --Golf Magazine (August 1995) has an article titled - The Economist (2 Morocco: Mint Tea and Golf September 1995) in- Tees. It explains how golf in Mo- cludes a short article ti- rocco has been recognized as tled Club Med, one of the growth industries in the country. Several golf courses discussing the European I Union's Euro-Med strat- I and golf clubs are considered egy. The difficulties of I among the world's best, including creating such a strategy Palmeraie, EI Jadida, Dar Es- (that works) is demon- Salam Royal Golf Club, Royal strated by the five Golf Anfa-Mohammedia, and the months of negotiations Royal Marrakech Golf Club. for a new fishing agree- Early Moroccan golf was influ- ment with Morocco, that enced by the British, and most failed to reach an agree- golf courses were designed and ment. The EU minister laid out by Englishmen. The arti- in charge of fisheries, cle suggests visiting Marrackech Emma Bonino, responded with the call for a full ex- for as a must, whether golfing or not. However, in amination of the EU's relations with Morocco, a Marrakech one can see both the oldest and newest in country that receives aid and preferential access for Moroccan golf. The Royal Marrakech Golf Club is in- its farm produce in the EU market. In Morocco, an its eighth decade. with a small building with men's unidentified newspaper wrote a story headlined: and women's changing rooms. no golf carts, and real "Morocco, is not in the ha~t of accepting ultimatums, caddies. The one-year old Palmeraie Golf Club. by which hark back to the age of colonialism." In fact, contrast, is part of the Palmaraie Golf Palace Resort. 500,000 Moroccans are said to rely on fishing for MichaelCox was the article'sauthor. their jobs, with Morocco demanding that the Spanish - , Portuguese boats that fish off its coast make -- The Washington Post article, Taking to the Baths JJI~ Winter 95/96 13

News reports from Morocco via the Moroccanand InternationalPress

in Morocco, Scrubbing Off the Years, by Lee Haas Nor- justice and equality under Islamic law create a real sense ris, tells of Norris's trip to a Marrakech hammam, with her of community and progress for the common good. In The Peace Corps Volunteer daughter Kate. Norris describes Role of the Cellular Family, the family as the center of the experience in detail, from the black hammam mitt Arab social organization is so important to establishing a with a texture not unlike steel wool, to the dim lighting, political atmosphere and character of a community. The the damp air, and the wood and plastic "flip-flops." What family is, and has been for centuries, the predominant had begun as a somewhat tentative OK to visit the ham- force in Arab politics, even to molding the functions and mam, ended with a very mellowed Norris was hooked, activities of non-family and nonreligious-institutions and comparing the thirty-cent hammam visit to an expensive policies. Te~rist Experts discusses the almost immedi- Madison Avenue salon, She lost eight years at the ham- ate blaming of Arab terrorists for the Oklahoma City Fed- mam. Though she has tried to replicate that morning in eral Building in April 1995. It points out the not-so-subtle Marrakech at home, she admits that it just can't be done, prejudices that the world, including Americans, have to- especially when "all you have to work with is shiny Ameri- ward things and people that are still somewhat mysteri- can plumbing and privacy ," Try to find a copy-it's ous to the majorities. In Being a Citizen of the Arab insightful and fun. World, the contrasts and conflicts between modem west- ern laws, and the development of those laws, with the other influences that must bed considered in newly inde- -The Associated Press reported from Taba, Egypt, pendent countries. Specifically, the article revolves that H.M. Hassan II was among those invited to the White around family, tribal, ethnic, and religious concerns. The House to witness the September PLO/lsraeli signing of authors for the articles are Serge Halimi and Hicham Ben the second phase of the 1993 Israel-PLO peace treaty. Abdallah EI Alaoui, a civil engineer and son of the late Citing a scheduling conflict, H. M. sent a representative. Prince Moulay Abdallah. EI Alaoui lives in Rabat. Other Arab heads of state in attendance were King Hus- sein of Jordan and President Hosni Mubarek of Egypt. -Aramco World (September/October 1995) includes an article titled On the Rat Bread Trail which includes a -Chronicle Features writer Steve Newman reported on discussion aoo comparison of all those flat round loaves the a the latest world report on natural disasters (1994) of bread that can be fouoo from Canada to Morocco to that included references to Morocco in the High Heat cat- Uzbekistan. A good section is included on Moroccan egory. The report says that a July 1994 heat wave in breads: how they are made, regional differences, histo- southern Morocco damaged fruit and vegetable crops ries, and more. One story about a Berber widow in the worth $12 million in the Souss Valley. Agriculture Minis- High Atlas, talks about cooking bread on flat hot stones. ter Abdelaziz Meziane said that unusually high tempera- An unusual and interesting article. tures over 122 degrees (t), combined with strong desert winds, destroyed 8,000 acres of crops. -The New York Times (5 March 1995)discusses the currentsituation in WesternSahara. in an article called --Le MondeDiplomatique (July 1995) includes four ar- Morocco Is Accused of Interfering in Affairs of a Smaller ticles on "Being a Citizen of the Arab World." Included is Desert Neig..bor. The author. Chris Hedges. writes Using Islam for the Good. explaining how the values of about alleged interference by Morocco in the

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F"rl_nda ' ...;.1\c>f' ~c>r~cc~ "li~\ 14 Winter 95/96

NewsDateline reports 'rom MoroccoMorocco via the Moroccan and International Press

establishment of a referendum to determine the future of tally agree with the methoos of voter registration and the former Spanish Sahara. It says that Morocco has identification.. Abdulaziz said that "The United States tapped UN phone lines, confiscat"ed voter documents and the United Nations can't let themselves be dragged from residents in Laayoune, and denied other residents into the dirty affair by the king of a corruJXcountry." the right to enter registration centers. Morocco is also said to be sending thousands of people from Morocco to -The New York Times (26 February 1995) writer Jane Sahara, saying that they have roots in the former colony Garmey, tells how her penchant for remote country inns and, as a result. should have a say in its Mure. The inter- is "carried to exb"emesin a drive across the open desert," ference violates a Morocco/UN agreement to aliCNi open in Irs a Mirage. No! It's an Auberge. Riding beyond the registration. The UN does not recognize Sahara as a Atlas Mountains, in a rented car, listening to her guides part of Morocco. instructions for polishing fossils, the car came to a sud- den halt because the road disappeared. She and her - The Washington husband were on Post (4 December their way to Erfoud, 1995) says in Sup- l to a "wonderful little port Dries Up for "'. ~ --~-- auberge run by a be- Western Sahara's .' :,".;- ~ -~~ guiling Frenchman Struggle. that no one i...;..:--=;~~!; who really under- seems to want to J4 ---1 stands good food." hear the side of the -J#..:t"-' This was to be the Polisario Front in "real Morocco." The Western Sahara. In I guide said to drive a visit to Washing- 'on-through the ton, Polisario leader sand-for nearly 20

Mohammed Abdu- ! kilometers, and until laziz ended up leav- ~~-~ - - - - ~- ' the sun was setting. ing a very frustrated .- -wonderful"'--- - Ittle- a~ -'-- ~,- by a ~iIng Fr ;;t8T...,_.8 Nothing was in site. person because it Then, on the hori- seemed that the State Department, the UN. and Arab zon, it appeared: the Auberge Kasbah Derkaoua, in b"a- diplomats all seem to ignore his rather alarmist mes- ditional style, in the middle of a -'uxuriant green oasis." sage, If the Sahara referendum goes ahead, and if the Unfortunately, there were no vacancies, because -(Its) a Sahara becomes part of Morocco, Abdulaziz says that favorite weekend getaway for every ambassador in Mo:- North Africa could become destabilized and that the rocco.- (Reservations are usually made two months in Polisario would likely resort to urban terrorism and guer- advance.) Mr. Michel took pity on them and set up a bed rilla warfare in the entire region, including the cities of in his -boutique." At breakfast, while talking with the Morocco. The UN seems to be tired of the situation and owner, they learned that he is a perfectionist...whether ~ pushing hard for a referendum, even if it does not to- working on his elaborate garden sprinkler system or ~ News reports from Morocco via the Moroccan and International Press

choosing cheeses and other delicacies on his monthly Boeing 727 on 16August 1972. General Oufkir had been 12-hour drive to and from Casablanca. Garmey says defense minister and the King's closest associate. The that the trip is worth it. The food is~rcellent. Accommo- treatment of the Oufkir family now poses a delicate prob- dations are "simple but charming, and most of the rooms lem forthe U.S. and other Western countries-created by have bathrooms." Sounds good to me. the diplomatic importance of Morocco in the Is- raeli/Palestinian Peace process. and in conflict with the -The Washington Post (8 February 1995) has an arti- West's call fora halt to human rights violations. In 1987, cle titled A Simple Lunch in Morocco: First, Roast 25 Canada agreed to accepttheOufkirfamily, had arranged Sheep..., by Phyllis C. Richman, is an interesting de- a bank account, and had arranged a special flight. Atthe scription of lunch as a guest of Moulay Messaoud Agous- last minute, however. Morocco cancelled the agreement sal, the largest olive oil producer in Morocco. Among his and placed the Oufkirs under house arrest in Marrakech other businesses are annual gross sales of $280 million until 1991. Their house arrest and their sudden release in leather, chemicals, oranges, and real estate. The have never been explained. The family has been trying lunch was given for several hundred visiting food people to get passports to leave, but have been refused, again (writers, chefs, etc...) at his house in Meknes (one of ten without explanation. Bernard Dartevelle. a Paris lawyer that he owns). After passing through the gardens, filled who represents the family, believes that the King fears with dancers, singers, dancing fountains, and that the Oufkirs might know Moroccan Government se- pomegranate trees, everyone entered the dining pavil- crets. Miss Oufkir said "The King is afraid we would not ion, where a setting of gold-rimmed crystal for 250 sat on keep quiet. But our only desire is to lead normal lives..." tables covered with table cloths matching the 250 chairs. The King told French television last March that the Richman describes the many courses of a typical Moroc- Oufkirs are free to go, but nothing has happened. One of can meal, the 55 house staff, the 40 waiters, and the 15 his few comments. made in the 1970s was that "I know cooks. Lunch was over at 5h30. For the host, it was no what would have happened to my own children if General big deal. He entertains like that on a small scale (as was Oufkir had succeeded in taking my place." this lun~h..according to his son) several times a week. Three-hundred to 1,000 for lunch is fairly common, though two months earlier he entertained 3,000 for din- ner. A fun article that gives background for some Moroc- can hospitality and cooking traditions.

- The New York Times (25 January 1995) Roger Cohen writes from Rabat about Maria-lnan Oufkir in King's Wrath: Morocco Family Tale of2Decades. Oufkir'sfam- ily (she, her mother. and five siblings) was imprisoned for almost twenty years in a specially created prison in the Sahara. because her father. General Mohammed Oufkir ordered the strafing of H.M. Hassan II's unarmed

~ - -; ;--' .tJ ;.li .J..I#\ Frl_nd8 O. ~~rocc~ 16 Winter 95/96

The following information was sub- Richard Holbrooke (Rabat 69-71, tact them at c/o Save the Children, mitted by our readers to help us Country Director) continues to be 54 Willow Road, Westport CT keep track. "you have news about in the news since our last newsletter. 06880. In Mali, call Peter at you, your PC friends, other Peace The recently appointed assistant 223.22.25.26 (h) or 223.22.61.34 (w) Corps volunteers, former Peace secretary of state for European Af- or 223.22.08.08 (t). Corps-related persons, or any other fairs, has been leading the peace Moroccophile, send it in for the Ash team trying to establish a real and Khabamacolumn. lasting peace to the Bosni- Hasan EIFarissi (Rabat, Biochem- an/Serb/Croate civil war. Read istry/Biology) received his Bache- more about Dick elsewhere in this lor's Degree in Biochemistry, and is Mike (AI Hoceima 88-90, PWEE) & issue of the newsletter. now working for the Los Angeles Jean Emery Hickey (Mar- (CA) Community College District as rakech/Rabat 89-91, Social Ser- a Life-Science Lab Technician. He vices) announce the birth of their Carolyn ProYty (Tendrara 89-91, is working on his Masters in Biology son, Andrew Michael, on 27 June Veterinarian) has moved to western at California State University. Has- 1995. Andrew weighed in at 7 Ibs 6 Washington sta!;:Wliereshe prac- san can be reached at 4547 W. oz (3.45 kgs) and was 20 inches (52 ticed at the mixed-animal veterinary 166th Street, Lawndale CA 90260, crn) long. He was born in Gaborone, hospital until November 1994. Cur- 310.793.6560 (h) or213.241.5217). Botswana, where Mike and Jean rently she is working as the U.S. Na- currently live. Mike is the Deputy tional Grass Roots manager of Chief of Party/Admin Officer for Results, an international citizens' Marjorie L. Hopkins (Beni Mellal USAID natural resource manage- lobby that is working to generate the 92-94, UTEFL) has settled in New ment projects, and Jean is the Cor- political will to end hunger and Jersey, after visiting her parents on ridnator of the Botswana Council for poverty. She can be reached, near the east coast and friends in the the Disabled. They can be reached Olympia, at 91 Lower Falls Creek northwest. She is a substitute at c/o NRMP, P. O. Box 131, Gabo- Road, Elma WA 98541, teacher in the local sd1ools, as well rane, Botswana, through June 1996. 360.482.3305. as being a teacher of ESL evening They ~ould love letters and visitors. classes at Mercer County Commu- nity College. She was able to attend Peter Laugharn (Sefrou 82-84, the Rutgers reception for Carol Bel- Ken Dethman (Taza 63-64, TEFL) is going into his fifth year in lamy last February. Contact Mar- Forestry), has worked with the Mali, currentlyworking as Save the jorie at 1051 River Road, West Maghreb Friendship Committee as Children's area director for West Trenton NJ 08628. 609.882.1662. would invite other FOM members to Africa. He is also field director for participate. He is also interested in Mali. Peter was married to Marie investment opportunities in the Kagaju in Kigali, Rwanda, on 22 Mark Dressman (Kasba Tadla 77- Maghreb. Contact Ken at P. O. Box June 1995. and will be in the U.S. 79, TEFL) is teacting and research- 1301. Portland OR 97207. throughoutDecember 1995. Their ing literacy as a socio-cultural 503.221.3970. U.S. telephone will be practice. ContactMark at P. o. Box 335. San Miguel NM 88058. -..: 206.8663958. In Mali you can con- ~ .. ~. ~ L;1...>. I ~. ~

505.233.4755 (h) or 505.646.3521 Washington DC 20004, Mary Jane & Bill Pannentier (Ait 202.333.7237 Ourir/Nador 86-88, TEFL/Water) have a new son, Robin, who was Bonnie Kirk (Meknes 66.,68, TEFL) born on 26 may 1995. Mary Jane is has been teaching French at the Aif. Jennifer Alters (Taza 90-91, ESL) working as a study abroad adminis- Saints Episcopal Day School in went to Thailand after the evacua- trator and is completing her PHD in Carmel CA, since 1980. She mar- tion of Morocco PCVs (during the International Studies. Bill is working ried Bill Clausen in 1972, and has a Gulf situation), where she was in the as a project engineer. Contact Bill & daughter Veronica. Bonnie would TEFUCrossover program for two Mary Jane at11046 W. Texas Av- like to hear what is happening at the years. After returning to the U.S., enue, lakewood CO 80232, Lycee Moulay Ismail in Meknes, she received her Masters in TESOL 303.489.3992 (h) or 303.831.3861 where she taught as a PCV. Contact at the Monteray Institute of Interna- (w). Bonnie at1141 Buena Vista Av- tional Studies. Currently Jennifer enue, Pacific Grove CA 93950, teaches at a community college in 408.375.1170 (h) or 408.624.9171. Seattle WA. Contact her at 952 Ann Podolske (Mohammedia 86- North 35th Street, Unit #301 , Seattle 88, University English Teacher) WA 98103,206.633.4351. has been working at the Institute of John F. Rapp (Imlil 88-90, Biolo- Management and Andministration, gist/Park Planner) works with the Inc., where she is newsletter editor. Arizona Department of Water Re- Janet Jerhada (MRPCV) practices She writes that she has stopped sources, after having received his at the Long Island Eye Surgery Cen- drinking and has experienced a re- Masters in Watershed Hydrology. ter in Brentwood NY, and is trying to cent coming out. You can find Ann Prior to the Az DWR, he worked with contact Helen Keller Award-Winning at 67-40 Booth Street, #2-N. Forest the National Park Service and Na- Moroccan Doctor Fatima Zohra Hills NY 11375, 708.275.4002 (h) or tional Biological Survey at Sequoia Akalay. If anyone can help, contact 212.244.0360, ext. 224 (w). National Park, conducting water- Janet at 1162 NamdacAvenue, Bay shed/biology related research. Con- Shores NY 11706. tact John at 3176 East Berridge Orin Hargraves (EI Hajeb 80- Lane, Phoenix AZ 85016, 82,TEFL & Staff 83) is living in a 602.956.7042. Steven Stanley (Beni MellaI71-75) Buddhist meditation center in Mary- is teaching English as a second lan- land, after having lived in England. guage at California State University, Contact Orin at 438 Bankard Road. Anne H. Reese (Marrakech 83-86. Los Angeles. He has co-starred in Westminster MD 21158, Director of Foyer Koutoubia) has L'il Abner and The Curious Savage 410.346.7889. been working until recently,for Be- at the Whittier (CA) Community The- dan, a PakistaniNGO in Islamabad. ater. He is also author of Morocco: A Thereshe establisheda child sexual year in the life of four PCVs. Contact Brenda J. (Paccioretti) Starr abuseprogram and trainedPakista- Steven at330 N. Chapel Avenue, Al- (Rabat 65-67,Lab. Tech.) is unit nis to run the program. Contact hambra CA 91801. 818.308.0268 (h) manager for surgery and urology at Anne at 1547 44th Street NW, or213.343.4840. Kaiser Permanente Medical Group

. "u al\ ",ti~\ , Frl_nda ~1' ftft~r~cco in Hayward CA, and works in a ana.edu Cultural Geography) has been a speakers bureau for AIDS educa- member of the Joint American- tion. She is married to Jack (for 28 Moroccan Research Team to un- years) and has a 21 year old son, Ron Messier (Rissani since 86, earth Sijilmassa since 1993. In Marcus. You can find Brenda at Archeology) is a professor of me- 1995, he helped with an environ- 1162 Burkhard Avenue, San Le~D- dieval history at Middle Tennessee mental quality project in Toubkal Na- dro CA 94579, 510.483.9280 (h) or State University. He has spent two tional Park, in cooperation with the 510.784.4866. Brenda also says or three months each year since Peace Corps. Contact James at 223 that Morocco VI will have a 30th an- 1986. in Morocco with archeological Lebanon Road, Pendleton SC niversary reunion at Lake Tahoe CA, studies at Sijilmasa. He also 29670, 803.646.6041 (h) or 10-13 August 1996. Bob Madson 803.656.5368. He is a professor of (Marrakech 65-67, Lab. Tech.) and geography at Clemson University, his wife Barbara, along with Bob where his E-mail address is Beck (Azrou 65-67, Lab. Tech.) [email protected]. If you want and Jim DeDeo (Casablanca 65- to check out his Morocco project on 67, Lab. Tech.) are making the the internet, call up http://geog- plans. Get in touch with Brenda for web.berkeley.edu/geoim- more information. .~es/Milier/milierone.htrnl.

Cheryl (Corkum) Deane (Midelt Julie Moore (Douar Tabia/Azila 81-84)has been living and teaching " 8S-90, Health & Sanitation) has English in Seoul, Korea, with her i:i:¥ earned her PhD at the University of husbandand two daughters,since l_~. Connecticut Health Center. and is 1985. She teachesESL for second now working at the Center for Dis- andthird gradersat the Seoul Inter- l:r, ease Control and Prevention at At- national School, P.O. Box 47, r~ lanta. She will be studying malaria Songpa 138-600, Seoul, South ~ and HIV infections in Kenyan moth- \' Korea. Cheryl can be called at \" ers and infants. Contact Julie at 02.409.1342(h) or 02.233.4551. ~ ~t ~~ 1431 Knollwood Terrace,Decatur teaches at V8~1t U'nTV"ersityin GA 30033, 404.634.4869 (h) or Nashville TN. You will find Ron at 404.488.4030. Her E-mail address Jeffrey S. Ankrom (Marrakech 84- 7313 Primrose Lane, Lascassas TN is [email protected]. 86, TEFL) is Assistant Managing Ed- 37085, 615.273.2474 (h) or itor for the Indiana University Press, 615.848.5881. His E-mail address is Baudouin de Marcken (Tunis, PC at Bloomington IN. You can get in [email protected]. touch with Jeffrey at P. O. Box 672, Director) has returned to North Bloomington IN 47402-0672, Africa as Tunisia PC Director, a 812.339.1109 (h) or 812.855.5261. James A. Miller (Marrakech, move that brought him and his wife His :-mail address is jankrom@indi- Ouarzazate, Rissani, Rabat 73-, Gail back from Latvia. You can con- -~ ~I Winter 95/96 ~ ~. ~ L; ~\ I ~. ~

rakech, Casablanca, Beni Mel- laI68-72, TEFL) will be moving to Tunisia (c/o USIS) in the late summer of 1996. In the mean- time. Jack has been promoted into the Senior Foreigh Service and is serving in Pakistan as Press Officer. He suffered a bicy- cle accident in 1994 that has him on crutches. Carol works as a consultant in development. com- munications and training with groups ranging from Pakistani vil- lage organizations to UNDP Af- ganistan. Currently, you can tact Baudouin at Peace Corps contact Jack & Carol at USIS Director, Tunis-Department of Moroccan Barbary Macaquesat (IS8), Unit 62205, APO AE State, Washington DC 20521- the University of Minnesota this 09812-2205. Telephone them at 6360. summer. He began his doctoral 9251.222690 (h) or program at the University of Idaho 9251.8154823. in January, after his second trip to Dan Wagner (Beni Mellal, Mar- Antarctica this past fall. You will rakech 68-70) is the first Director find Rob at 2207 Doswell Av- Theresa Kruser (Larache 87-90) for the International Uteracy Insti- enue, Saint Paul MN 55108, writes that, tor years she has re- tute, cosponsered by UNESCO 612.644.7608. His E-mail ad- ceived the FOM Newsletter, and and the University of Pennsylva- dress is rej@finsand- had not paid her membership. nia. He travels to Morocco, the fur.fw.umn.edu. She finally joined, and the Middle East, and other parts of newsletter has gone somewhere Africa on international education else. (We are correcting that at projects. He lives with his wife Thomas Vahle (Casablanca 85- FOM.) You can find Theresa at and two kids at 7203 Greene 88, TEFL) is now teaching music 4848 North Lydell Avenue, #122, Street, Philadelphia PA 19119, at the International School in Milwaukee WI 53217. 215.242.1024 (h). Dan would like Dakar, Senegal. Tom can be to hear from RPCVs interested in contacted at The International international R&D and consulting School of Dakar. BP 5136. Dakar. Peace Corps Times writes that His E-mail address is wagner@lit- Senegal, West Africa. Letters Paula Jeane (PCV Morocco) eracy .upenn.edu. can also be forwarded through his and twelve Moroccan counter- family in the US at Kate Curry parts received an "uplifting" gift Vahle. 19842 Portal Plaza. Cu- from KLM Royal Dutch Airways. Rob Jensen (Ouaouizerht 88- pertino CA 95014 KLM flew Paula and her fellow 90) will defend his thesis on the Jack & Carol McCreary (Mar- instr . - -al\ &.li~\ '."... Fra_rod. -' <»1' ~<»rc»cc<» 20 Winter 95/96

instructors and students, most of Morocco at 212.483.04.77 (w) ing furniture and cabinets, and con- whom are blind, off to California for a tinuing his watercolor painting in visit to some of the world's most California. For more news about technologically advanced institutes, Erin E. Branigan (Tinghir 86- Bob, contact him at 520 Pamona. schools, and libraries for the blind. 88,TEFL) went to cooking school at Albany CA 94706, 510.528.5244 (h) KLM ~cked up the tab for the' one New York State University (hated it), or 510.436.0549. week visit to Los Angeles, San F ran- go a Masters of Public Health at the cisco, and San Mateo, as part of the University of Alabama/Birmingham. airline's "Bridging the World" con- married Roderick Major in 1994, Phyliss Dietrich (Tetouan 85-57. test. Paula works in a school for the and left immediately for Mali. There Teaching Hearing Impaired) has blind in the Peace Corps Orientation she is a University of Michigan Pop- retired from her teaching in Pennsyl- and Mobility project with blind in- ulation Fellow (USAID-funded) as- vania. She currently works part time structors, students, and their fami- signed to the Groupe Pirot/Surrie de for the Humane Society of lack lies to improve the living conditions I'Enfant, a consortium of NGOs County, and is on the local speakers and educational prospects for the vi- working in health fields. The work re- bureau as a resource for talks about sually impaired. The goal of the trip ceived an AID grant (and some fund- Morocco. Phyliss can be found was to inform Paula's Moroccan ing from Save the Children/USA) at115 Clark Street, Clarks Green PA counterparts of the operations of and is intended to implement com- 18411,717.587.3307. successful American institutes for munity-based distribution of contra- the blind. It also introduced the Mo- ceptives throughout Mali. Erin roccan instructors to resource mate- would like to receive letters and visi- Shirley A Triano (Rabat 93-95, rials and technology used in the tors c/o Groupe Pirot Surrie de I'En- Health Technician) arrived back in education of the blind in the United fant, BP 3105, Bamako, Mali, West the US in September1995, and is States. Three cheers for Paula & Africa. Her USA address is 155 Rue working part-timein a friend's busi- KLM. Charlmagne, Slidell LA 70461, ness. She is sendingout resumes. 504.649.1647. trying to connect with international organizations for future employ- Charles Benjamin (Casablanca, ment. ContactShirley at P. O. Box Zag ora, EI Kela'at Mgouna 86-88, Mark Udulutch (Agadir 92-94, TE 560833, Orlando FL 32856, UTEFL) is directing the Near East for Specific Purposes at the Insti- 407.894.7324(h). Foundation program in Morocco, tut de Peches Maritime) is now a which focuses on developing and part-time attorney in Wisconsin. He disseminating appropriate technolo- would like to find a source for henna Carole Somsky (Larache 85-87, gies for rural women in the areas of in an unprocessed form. Contact Special Education) is a special ed- household energy systems/natural Mark at 722 Wisconsin Avenue. ucation teacher in Phoenix AZ, after resource management, water and Wisconsin Dells WI 53965, having spent two years teaching on health, agriculture and food process- 608.254.6233 (h). an Arizona Navajo Reservation. ing, and income generating activi- You can contact Carole at 8925 W. ties. Contact Charles at BP 43, Fargo Drive, Peoria AZ 85382, Khemis Dades 45350, Ouarzazate, Robert Newhall (Marrakech 71-73, 602.977.9951 (h). Morocco. Telephone Charles in Architecture) is designing and mak-

~ '-I ...!JI~ t. Winter 95/96 21 . .. ~ ~L:;.. I ~. (jil Rich & Marie Jones (MRPCVs)are 209 W. Fayette. Baltimore MD 29th Street NW, Washington DC interestedin finding MRPCVswho 21209; Michael Moran (Boujad 81- 20007, 202.342.6353 (h) or have used their PC experienceto 83, TEFL) is at P.O. Box 12641, San 202.347.3666; S. Louis Flanders make significantsodal and political Antonio TX 78212; I. William Zart- (Safi 86-88, Rural Water Program changes in the US. Morocco. or man can be reached at 1740 Mas- WaterBaby) working as a oos oper- other places. Rich is a memberof csachusetts Avenue NW, ator and living at 2954 Calla Street, the Chicago/CasablancaSister City Washington DC 20036, Eugene OR 97404-1855, Committee. The committee'scur- 301.622.5151 (h) or 202.663.5676; 503.461.4679; Weston Lund rent project is to cosponsoran ex- Ronald Papandrea, Assistant City (Rabat 89-91, ESL), a NYC School change of doctors and technicians Attorney at Warren Michigan, can be Board Administrator, living at 6495 between the University of Illi- contacted at 30315 Austin Drive. Broadway, 6M, Riverdale NY 10471, nois/Chicagoand the PediatricCen- Warren MI 48092-1888, 718.884.4234 (h) or E-mail ter at the Casablanca Munidpal 810.524.9712 (h) or 810.574.4947; [email protected]; and Marge Hospital. ContactRich & Marie at John Teeple (Rabat 89-91, Bee Gruzen (Casablanca 92-95, 1058 Unden, Wilmette IL 60091. Keeping) is in marketing for the Teacher at Casa American Their E-mail addressis mjones @ Centric Corporation and lives at 304 School) who can be found at 36 NWU.edu. SW Hamilton, Portland OR 97201, Quentin Street, Harnden CT 06517, 503.224.2209 (h) or 503.727.3419; 203.248.3787. and Huda Fadel (Midelt 79-81, More New & Renewed TEFL), who is a research scientist Still others are Francis Poole who Members for the Department of Veterans' Af- has moved to 335 Paper Mill Road in fairs, is living at 2678 Packard, Ann NewarkDE 19711; Peter Jamieson Bob Lampara (Marrakech 69-71, ArborM148104, 313.973.6515 (h) or (Goulmina/Meknes 85-87) who is Architecture) is living at 720 S. 313.930.5159 (E-mail at fadel.hu- an ESL teacher in L.A., and can be Wesley Avenue, Oak Park IL 60304; [email protected] . contacted at 3011 Poppy Court, Betty Pope (Rabat 83-86, PC Thousand Oaks CA 91360, Nurse) is established at 53 Baldwin Other new and renewing members 805.493.0991 (h); Jeanne Davis Street, Binghamton NY 13903, are Thomas Penchoen, a professor (Michalski) (Rabat 80-83, TEFL) 607.722.9513; Jon Chrysler is at of Berber and Moroccan AratHc in living at 2809 Kulsban Street, 250 152nd Place SE, Bellevue WA 1971 and 1986, who can be found at Bellingham WA 98225; P. John 78007, 206.746.9796; Gina Wal- 2556 East Side Road, Hood River Taylor (Tau 63-70, Forestry) who lace (Rabat 93-95, Public Health) OR 97031, 503.386.7998; has moved to 1945 Montbomery Av- is at 3007 W. Government Way, Stephanie Joy Willman (Rabat 91- enue, Villanova PA 19085-1817; Seattle WA 98199-1423, 95, Fulbright/PC Staff) who is Deborah Beaton (Midelt 80-83, 206.286.0193; Valerie Staats studying law at ColumtHa Law TEFL) living at 327 I Street NE. (Casablanca 83-85, TEFL) now School, and lives at 4829 27th Road Washington DC 20002, livesat2214Wightman Street, Pitts- South, Arlington VA 22206, 202.543.5780 (h) or 202.778.1078; burgh PA 15217;Carl Henn (Mar- 703.931.8550; Thomas Birch Elizabeth Stephens (Tetouan/Ra- rakech 81-83, Rehab) can now be (Ouezzane/Brikche/Fez 69-74, bat 88-90) who is a midwife living at contacted c/o CRS-Burkina Desk, Agriculture/TEFL) living at 1240 16 Church Street. Tarrytown NY

.

..u ...81\ &.ti~ \ " Frl_nde ~. ~~r~cc~ 22 Winter 95/96

10591,914.631.4048 (h); Mary Tay- 612.437.4855; Rick Wriskey tribal rugs and weavings, can be lor (Kenitra 87-90, Teacher/ENS) (Rabat 74-76,Forestry) is a forester contacted at 75 Tremont Street, who lectures at Tokyo Kasei Univer- for New Brighton MN, and can be Cambridge MA 02139, sity, 0429.66.2550 (h); and Christy contacted at 2234 Birch Street, 617.497.5259; Kt Murray (MRPCV Schildwachter (Beni Mellal 88-91, White Bear Lake MN 55110, 91-93) lives at 367 Cedar Street, TEFL) who works for Peace Corps 612.426.5309; Dave McKenna Harkness Hall #819, New Haven CT and who can be reached at 1224 In- (Marrakech 82-84, TEFL) is now at 06510; Jerome Saulter is at 8938 dependence Avenue SE, Washing- P. O. Box 760, Hillsboro OH 45133- 179th Place SW, Edmonds WA ton DC 20003, 202.544.4086 (h) or 0760; Karen Countryman (MRPCV 98020; Sonya G. Malone can be 202.606.3167. 64-66) can be contacted at the contacted at 1040 Olive Road, #813, Countryman Group, 220 Lafayette Pensacola FL 32514; and Andrea Thomas Birch (Ouezzane/Fez69- Street, Iowa City IA 52240, Stepnick, who is working on a Ful- 71,Agricutture/TEFL) is a lawyer at 319.358.5757; Brian Williams bright to do research in Morocco on 1240 29th Street NW, Washington (Ouled Teima 82-85, TEFL) has professional women, can be DC 20007, 202.342.6353 (h) or moved to 18412 Spring Crest Drive, reached at 925 E. Magnolia Drive, 202.347.3666; Bruce Spicer Minnetonka MN 55345; Driss & Apt 01, Tallahassee FL 32301, (Sale/Beni Mellal 73-76, Agricul- Paula Jainet are at 215 Arlington 904.671.3190 (h) or 904.644.2831. ture)is livingat 1349 W.17th Street. Street, Wollaston MA 02170; Lois Hastings MN 55033.3208, Brubeck, who deals in Moroccan Winter 95/96 23 Noreen's Observations of Today'sMorocco:

Things that are different:

McDonalds; Pizza Hut; more automo- biles and more people; considerably less hassling (yes, really!); train service from Rabat to the Casablanca airport (though the trains were on strike when I was there); unleaded gasoline; Coca- Cola Ught in cans (Diet Coke); ice cream everywhere (really good stuff); women in cafes...always hidden up- stairs or in the back; no smoking in

I taxis; lost of satellite dishes bringing VH1, CNBC, and European TV sta- tions; more women wearing jeans; and more women wearing the hijab. *****

Things that are the same:

No toilet seats (a sign of a truly patriar- chal society);pink cardboardcalled pa- pier hygienic (posing as toilet paper); Sidi Ali water (still tastes great); Sidi Harazem water (still tastes awful); cafes filled with men; horrid smelling cigarettes;diesel exhaustspewing out of every other car; the smell of raw sewagein the main square in Rabat; women saying coolie, coolie, coolie, I you haven't eaten anything(after one

I hour stuffing of sweets and mint tea down your throat); endless questions about marriage (Are you married? Why not? I have a man for you!).

- ~

"" u -8l' ;.li .J...I# , ""; Frl_ncl- C>~ ~c>roccc> Friends of Morocco is trying to ~.~ ***** ***** pile a source list for things Moroccan that can, we hope, lead to the cre- -The Republic of Tea, offers teas -Maghreb Friendship Commit- ation of a source book for our mem- from around the world, including one tee, is offering a long distanceser- bers. We ask that our readers send called Moroccan Mint. Contact The vice to ad a groupof MRPCVswith us the names (and actt"esses) of Republic of Tea at 800.298.4832. the planningof economc develop- restaurants, retailers of Moroccan ment projectsfor the benefitof peo- goods, sources of Moroccan musical ***** ple in the Maghreb. Four principles reCOIdngs, spe~ers from or about guide the projects: preservationof Morocco, exhibits of Moroccan art -Rand McNally, is offering adven- capital,reasonable return on equity, and artifacts, sources for cooking ture and exotic destination videos creation of employment and the spices, OOd

still might answer the phone. Eclec- each). Form more information. to go "when you think you've tasted tic choices from places like Tanza- contact Country Floors at 8735 everything. Moroccan and other nia. Russia. Tibet. Turkey, Cuba, Melrose Avenue. Los Angeles CA North African musics play in the and Morocco abound. It is described 90069,310.657.0510. background. None of the chairs as a store "too weird to franchise, match. and cutlery and napkins are (and) a catalogue that's like being ***** stored in two bureaus that have iden- there." The catalogue costs $1.00. tifying tags taped to the drawers. A Unfortunately, you'll have to contact -Overseas Adventure Travel is of- mural shows camels marching the Utne Reader for more informa- fering a Morocco Sahara Odyssey,a through the sunset. Though it has tion, at P. O. Box 5064, Pittsfield MA fifteen day tour of the country, in- the normal couscous, tagine, and 01203-5064. cluding the mountans, the Sahara, fish dishes. Williams says that Marrakech, Fez, and Rabat. In- L 'Olive shines when it comes to ap- ***** cluded are four days of camping in petizers and salads (except the the Sahara, and visits with Berber house salad). Desserts are also a specialty. Menu items -Country Floors a range from $1.50 to major imported and $12.50. For more infor- marketerof ceramic mation or reservations, tile, is offering a 30- contact L 'Olive at 3915 piece collection of Sheridan Road, Chicago designs based on IL,472.2400. Moorishand Moroc- candesigns. The in- ***** spirationcame from the tiles of the Santa Barbara CA court- -Grand Circle Travel is house, which were offering a fifteen-d2Y manufacturedby a and Bedouin tribes. A seven-day ex- tour of Morocco, visiting French-ownedTunisian tile factory tension to Tunisia is also available. Rabat, Fez, Erfoud, Ouarzazate, in 1929. The tiles includeshort his- For more information, contact Over- Marrakech, and Casablanca, travel- tory lessons explaining that tiles seas Adventure Travel at 625 ling from New York to Casablanca were more than decoration in Is- Mount Auburn Street. Cambridge via Royal Air Maroc. A highlight of lamic North African Architecture. MA 02138-9461. 800.221.0814. the tour is "Daybreak in the Sahara," They were "used in mosquesand a tour into the desert to Merzouga gardensto inducea meditativestate ***** and Rissani, and a program explor- of mind,"according to Country ing the world of the "Blue Men." For Floors'Shannon Karlson. The tiles more information, contact Grand are all handdecorated and coated -L 'Olive, a Moroccan restaurant in Circle Travel at 347 Congress with non-leadglaze. The tiles are Chicago was described by Mary Ann Street. Boston MA 800.221.2610. sold by the piece ($10.65-$18.65 Williams in the New City as a place

.lU ~\ ;.liJ.lO4\ '..." Frl.nd- ~t' ~~r~cc~ 26 Winter 95/96

\f'Vhatfollows is a schedule of conferences, exhibits, new books, and other notes that concern the arts in or about Morocco. If you know of an upcoming event, ex- hibit, new books, recordings, etc..., please send the information to the FOM Newslettertoshare with otherMoroccophiles.

Transfigurations of the Maghreb: Feminism, Decolonization, and Litera. tures by Winifred Woodhull is offered by the University of Minnesota Press. In it. Woodhull challenges the separation between French and Francophone litera- tures. and ex plores the ways in which femininity has been represented in the texts of North Africa and French writers since 1950. The challenge is demonstrated by some of the best known Algerian texts written in French.

Love in Two Languages by AbdelkebirKhatibi and translated by Richard Howard,is anotherU~ty of MinnesotaPress offering. Told as a love story, this novel exploresthe complexissues surrouncing the colonialistrelationship betweencultures. The readerpeers through a windowseeing up closea heated, thenfailed, love affair betweena Moroccanman anda Frenchdancer.

Arabic Shott Stories is an offering from the University of California Press, trans- lated by Deny Johnson-Davies, and an introduction by Roger Allen. The twenty- four stories, all Arabic fiction, include themes such as an alleyway in Tangier as seen through the eyes of a prostitute, the price. paid t", a sophisticated Cairene philanderer for his infatuation with a young bedouin girl, and the callous treat- ment a young wife receives from the man to whom she has been married.

The Vision of Islam, published by Paragon House in New York, is a work by Sachiko Murata and William Chittick. It explores the four dimensions of Islam as outlined in the Hadith of Gabriel- practice, faith, spirituality, and the Islamic view of history. Interweaving teachings from the Koran, the sayings of the Prophet, and the great authorities of the tradition, the authors introduce the essentials of each dimension, then go on to illuminate how each has been embodied in Islamic institutions throughout history. Both Murata and Chittick are associate profes- sors in the Department of Comparative Studies, SUNY Stony Brook.

Arabesques, edited by Suzan Schwartz is a book of More Tales of the Arabian Nights, including stories by Larry Niven, Tanith Lee, Gene, Wolfe, Andre Norton, and Jane Yolen, as well as other fantasy writers--probably familiar names to fan- - ~ tasy and science fiction writers. A second volume, Arabesques 2, features # 1's ~ Winter 95/96 27 Ci t e l""ia t u r e ......

authors, along with other new names. Only published in paperback by Avon Books, they were first printed in 1988 and 1989 respectively. Alan Bundy (MRPCV 68-69), who let us kn~ about the books, says that even if they are not on the bookstore shelf, they are still in print and can be ordered. Whether we admit it or not, the original Arabian Nights stories might have been an influence on our willi ngness to volunteerto go to Morocco.

Arabian Sights, Contemporary Arab Cinema. is a ~ogram of the Washington DC, I nternational Film Festival, through 15 February 1996. Major sponsors are the Center for the Study of the Global South, The American University Center for Contemporary Arab Studies, and Georgetown University. The series includes films from Algeria, Morocco, Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, the Sudan, and Tunisia, fol- lowed by discussion and a guest speaker. Other series sponsors are The League of Arab States, Embassy of Algeria, National US-Arab Chamber of Commerce, Arab Film Distribution, Cineplex Odeon, ant the Carey Winston Company.

Coming Up for Air, by George Orwell, was recently reviewed in Arsmco World along with a story of Orwell's sojourn in Marrakech in 1939. Though written in 1939 His Moroccan interval transformed his transformation from a conventional novelist "distinguished by empathy with the oppressed" to a "powerful and astute political" writer, says A W's Daniel Pawley. I n Morocco, Orwell also produced his significant essay Ma"skech. Orwell wrote on his arrival in Morocco, " One thing I have always believed...is that one really learns nothing from a foreign country un- less one works in it..." The article gives insight to Orwell's' other writings just be- fore, and just after, Marrakech. It points out how there are glimpses in his Ma"skechofayetto be written Animal Fann, while Coming Up for Air strongly re- flects his political reorientation that was later exposed in Nineteen Eighty-four. It has been asked if Coming Up for Air would have been written if Orwell had not wintered in Morocco. Pawley thinks so, as Orwell wrote, "I am spending the win- ter her for the sake of my lungs, which I think it is doing a little good to. Owing to this blasted health business I have had what is practically a wasted year. but the long rest has done me good and I am getting on with a new novel, whereas a year ago...1 had seriously thought that I would never be able to write a novel again." Most of Orwell's writings are still in print, including those mentioned here, are still in print.

The Bjorklund Legacy: Philanth at 25 and its sequel Bjorklund's Daughter. by Dr. Betty Halliwell, are available free to RPCVs. from the author. Phi/anth tackles the problem of holding onto self-transcendent values in a secular culture. It also shows the effects of using top management positions at Peace Corps as ~ plumsfor a president'ssupporters. Peace Corps Director Charles Bjorklund ~t'I "ti J..I#\ Fra-_.-- ~_r~c- 28 Winter 95/96

D~~ makes a tour of PC countries with two young RPCVs, and his burnout becomes a - Ah1UDIslamic An metaphor for his country's fading altruism regarding its role in the world. The a ~7~St. 849-page philosophical/political romance is offered as a gift from the author, a 8 ,\Da 122.&-,~ former sociology professor who worked at Peace Corps headquarters while com- D Bon1lam's pleting research for this book. In the first published sequel, Bjorlc/und'sDaughter It. is a rising politician struggling to further her famous adoptive parents' farsighted . -_It.OIrisac' s global agenda while keeping the unscrupulous vice president at arm's length. . ~~-~-~St. This 529-page celebration of the space program is from the viewpoint of the B D,.a1aSabm NASA executive who looks to Congresswoman Bjorklund like he would make a ~14A M=== ~ It. satisfactory husband for a presidential aspirant. For more information, or a copy II Grav'sMews Antiq~ 1-7~-- of either book, contact Dr. Betty Halliwell, Q'OThe Pribiloff Press, 2930 Colorado - aKufa:~-_. Ga1JcrY-- Ave., #018, Santa Monica CA 90404-3647, or call at 310-453-8007. Morethan one book may be purchased at a Peace Corps discount. The book is not being .._MadtafGaUen' ac 1t.. sold through bookstores. II R~ f-bJcs A.nboucs 133.""""~k SGd\cb.' Women of Algiers in Their Apaltment is offered by the University Press of Vir- 1B34_":". ginia, and is winner of the ALTA Outstanding Translation of the Year Award. By 1II~~:'Soa Assia Djebar, and translated by Marjolijn de Jager, it is a series of stories that are intended to be ~e voice of all the women they've kept walled in" in Islamic soci- eties. As much a critique as a picture of society, it introduces readers to a Jittle- known world. The book retails for $19.95.

Nedjma by Kateb Yacine and translated by Richard Howard, is another Univer- sity Press of Virginia offering. This novel, "by one of the most versatile and com- plex writers of North Africa, is a masterpiece of contemporary literature." From the personal story of an impossible love for a married cousin, Yacine has crafted a novel that is the saga of the founding ancestors of Algeria through French colo- nial conquest.

To Touch the World: the Peace Corps Experience is a collection of stories published by the Peace Corps, and representing experiences of real volunteers. Included is a story Three Lessons by Craig Storti (MRPCV 70-72, Safi). Devel- oped by PC as a recruiting tool, more information can be had by calling 800.424.8580.

London's Islamic Art Market by Louis Werner. and published in Aramco World (May/June 1995), takes you on a nine-page tour of some of "the trading center for Islamic art," outperforming even Kabul or Cairo. It covers Thirteen galleries, - completewith names,addresses, and "specialties" of the HydePark/St. James ~

~ iri Winter 95/96 29

Park areas of Central London.

ICOC Regional Moroccan Rug Conference will be held in Philadelphia PA in October 1996. The University of Pennsylvania will stage an exhibition of Moroc- can Carpets during the conference. which will include discussions and presenta- tions. For more information. contact Brooke Pickering at212.780.9125.

Arts and Crafts of Morocco by James F. Jereb was released in 1995 by Thames-Hudson Publishers in London. The book is intended to accompany a traveling exhibition of Moroccan art, opening this year in Los Angeles, at the Arts & Crafts Museum. We will keep you informed on future locations and dates.

From Sign to Image: the Moroccan Catpet, published by Zak International in Casablanca. by Atxjel Kebir Khatibi and Ali Amahan, is available for $95.00. The 187-page, 100-plate (color), hardbound volume can be obtained through the American distributor, Myrna Bloom, at 215.657.6178.

Exploring Flamenco's Arab Roots, by Greg Noakes, and appearing in the De- cember 1994 Aramco World, explores the origins of Flamenco music in the hills of Andalusia. Though some say Flamenco is a corruption of Flemish, most say it is a corruption of the colloquial Arabic fe/ag mangu, which means fugitive peas- ant. Flamencos and Gitanos were words first applied to Andalusian Gypsies in the 14th century. In an effort to explore, and keep alive. the music of Angelus, the Valencian folk group AI Tall has teamed up with a Marrakech ensemble, Muluk EI-Hwa. The two groups have set Arabic and Catalonian poetry from the 11th to 13th centuries to the rhythms, melodies, and instruments of the western Mediter- ranean. Other groups have been formed, including the Orquesta Andalusi de Tetouan and the Orquesta Andalusi de Tanger.

The Word Made Image is an exhibit of religion. art, and architecture in Spain and Spanish America from 1500-1600. The exhibit is kicked off with a symposium of / the creation of a national Catholic culture on 20 January 1996, at the Gardner Mu- seum in Boston MA. It seems that many of the craftsmen used in the new world after 1492.were actually Muslims from Andalusia.

Thundering Hooves: Five Centuries of Horse Power in the American West is a 400-piece exhibition that examines the roles of horse and rider in a land that drew much from al-Andalus. Muslim Spain. It shows 3 February through 5 May 1996. at the Children's Museum, Indianapolis IN.

Teaching About the Arab World and Islam is a continuing series of teacher 30 Winter 95/96

workshops cosponsoredby the Middle East Policy Council in Washington DC, and AWAR, the Arab World And Islamic Resources and School Services in Berkley CA. Upcoming workshops will be at Milwaukee WI (10-14 February), Louisville KY (19 February), and Denver CO (2 March). For more informa- tion, call 202.296.6767 or 510.704.0517.

Earth 2U, Exploring Geography fills a hall with things to touch, lift, and turn, as well as games, stories, "question stations," and environmental reconstructions. Though designed for children, the traveling exhibition is said to appeal to visitors of all ages. It shows that geography is not all capitals and continents. Children pick up a "passport" at the entrance, being stamped as they traverse the multi- sectioned exhibit. Among the "Explorations and Adventures" displays, they will find a life-sized, talking figure of Ibn Battuta, among other explorers. Sponsored by the National Geographic Society, the Smithsonian's SITES, and Nissan USA, SEE OUARZAZATE AND DIE the exhibition is booked for a five-year, 39-citytour. It opens at the National Geo- Travels Through graphic Society in Washington DC, where it will be open through 11 February Morocco 1996. Sylrla I{ennedy See Ouanazate and Die: Travels Through Morocco, by Sylvia Kennedy, is offered by Uttle Brown & Company. It is the account of three trips to Morocco, re- vealing the country in "all its glamour, squalor, and crazy contradictions." Kennedy visits Rabat, seeing infertile women courting conception by feeding hard-boiled eggs to eels; Fez, where she saw five-year-olds working in the tan- neries; Meknes, where the King "hasn't visited since being pelted with a tomato twenty years ago;" and Tangier, where her guide was arrested "for no reason at all." The craziest of all, she points out, is Ouarzazate. The tourist destination in Morocco, according to the author, is "the dullest place on God's large earth...a pointless rival to the cultural and historical attractions (in the rest of Morocco)." AnotherviewofMorocco.

Morocco: Crossroads of Time is a new CD/Book edited by Bill Lawrence (MRPCV), and released by Ellipsis Arts...A captivating CD of Moroccan music ranging from the street to formal performances to the bled, it includes an intro- ductory geographic/history lesson about Morocco. Exemplary track notes, in- cluding librettos, and colorful photos and graphics fill the written portion of the release. Crossroads is now available at most music stores. Winter 95/96 31

many from Morocco and the rest of North Africa. It includes a photographic glos- sary of terms, foods, and spices, making it easy to identify what your dish should look like before, during, and after _~reparation. It also includes a menu planning section, by country and geographic areas.

The Art & Architecture of Islam: 1250-1800, published by Yale University Press, is written by Sheila S. Blair and Johnathan M. Bloom. A beautiful refer- ence book or, if you prefer. something colorful for your coffee table. It is filled with background, facts, drawings, and photographs of Islamic art and architecture throughout the world. Several chapters and references relate to North Africa and Andalusian Spain.

Morocco a traveler's guide published by Knopf Guides was released in 1995, being a translation of the original French guide published in 1993. One of the most comprehensive, informative, and colorful guides we've seen about Mo- rocco, it is easy to read and follow, whether you are on site or just traveling from your arm chair. If you have questions about transportation, art, history, hotels, food, animals, flowers, clothing, tatoos, living in Morocco, or just about anything else, this guide is for you. It sells for $25.00 in the U.S.

Morocco: Sahara to the Sea is a 1995 release of Abbeville Press, written and photographed by Mary Cross, and including preface and introduaions by Paul Bowles and Tahar Ben Jelloun. The 240-page large-format book includes nearly as many photographs of the ordinary, the mysterious, and the usual (but as seen from a different perspective). The book covers the major cities, small towns, and the countryside. In the author's words, "Forthe most part, monuments do not ex- cite me...What I cherish most...arethe memories of the people and the extraordi- nary beauty of the land." Cost: $50.00.

Culture Shock! Morocco: A guide to customs and etiquette, is now on book- store shelves. By Orin Hargraves (EI Hajeb 80-82, TEFL) is published by Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company, in Portland OR. The newly released book tells you all you need to know about Moroccan customs and how a foreigner can function and be at home in the country. Hargraves uses his own, as well as others', experiences to guide you through such topics as language, food, cus- toms, relationships, and doing business. Whether you plan a trip to Morocco, or

just want to understand other cultures, this book will help. Orin now divides his 0rt8 "--- time between a rural Maryland Buddhist retreat, where he caretakes and cooks, and London, where he works as a free-lance writer and lexicographer.

~

- ~u..:.1\ ~ti~' Frl_nd- ""'; -~ M_r_cc- 32 Winter 95/96

Paula Wolfert ia her cookbook CousCOIUand orner GotHi FOtNlfrom Morocco offers the story of SO way. 10 serve chickea. The list came about due 10 a wager at a mcetiagof the Istiqla. during the stmule againstthe French in the eady 1950.. Thc wager was made, aad woa, by Mebdi Bcoaoxiaa ofTelubn, laler chief of the Ageace Maghreb Anbs ~ in Rabat. We offer for your coaaidcntion:

SO (MORE OR LESS) WAYS TO SERVE FRIENDS OF MOROCCO

R~roit a new FOM owmber. Pay your dues aJId acOOa dooaliOD to FOM. Invite a Moroccan to visit your bOinc. Befriend a Moroccan coUcge sQldent. Go toWaahingtoo, DC for ljlimfia '96 aJId NPCA Conference, Fcbroary 29-March 3, 1996. . Wear a crosled Oag (U.S. aJId Morocco) or Morocc:an flag lapel pin Ho~ a Moroccan feast to be auctioned for charity. Write an article for the FOM Newsletter. Rejoin PCKe Corps or ~roit a new volunteer (1 800 424 8580). Vacation in Morocco and leU others about your experiences. Invite friends over for a Moroccan meal. Wear a PCKe Corps lapel pin or button. Design, commission, aJId distribute a FOM bu~r sticker. Take friends to a Moroccan reat8urant. Take a Moroccan dish to a community pot luck or private pot luck. Do a Moroccan slide show for a school, civic group, or chwch. Be on the FOM Board ofDi~tors or serve as a FOM officer.. Organize or attend a Morocco reunion. Call or write an old friend from Morocco. Sce and discuss the movie Sheluring Sky or IsJuar. Join and support the National Peace Corps Association(NPCA). Join or start your own local FOM chapter. . Have Moroccan cnfts OD display in your hOII$8. Donate English lanluage materials to a TEFL center. Teach kids some Anbic. Be infonned and speak out on Anb/Islamic i-.cs. Put s Peace Corps bumper sticker on your car. Hold a fund niscr for a project in Morocco. Write a song, poem, e...y-or maybe do a video-about your experience in Morocco. Write your newspaper pRacnting an RPCV's viewpoint on international events. Write Congress pRaCnting an RPCV's viewpoint on international events. Subscribe to the Moroccan Embassy News Service publication. Contribute slides to the FOM slide libnry Represent Morocco in local international fain. Import and sell Moroccan cnfts. Wear Moroccan clothes. Help edit, design, produce, or distribute the FOM 1995 Membership and RcIOUIce DirecIlXy. Sell advertising in the FOM 1995 Directory to restauratIU and JMlChanta. Get and use a NPCA Master CardMSA. Take friends to the Moroccan Pavilion at Epcot Center in OrIaOOo. Write an article on Morocco for your local newspaper. Write an article on Morocco for your professional joumaJ. Recroit or brief a new Peace Corps volunteer Display photognphs and cnfts from Morocco in your office. Say ;nshQU4/! when referring to the future. Say bismeU4/! when starting anything new. Read and discuss a book about Morocco. Go to your local mosque. Introduce yourself to Moroccans on the street. Lead or organize a tour to Morocco.

Perhaps this list win DOt only help FrietMIs of Morocco, but wiD also help bridge the understanding gap betwCCD cultu~s. Contact Tim Reach, 703 660 9292 H, or [email protected] if y~ IIeed any -..iunce. Winter 95/96 33

Introducing a Journal Each casestudy will descn"bean SPODSOIS.and contacts for poacial of SustainableDevelopment activity that contributes to alsl.~8ble subscribers arouDd the world. and Education development. The studies will be writtea by community leadersaDd Subscription mailing lists "ill be educatorswho want to share the This is a brief description of A pr0- sought from and advertising placed why. bow to. and results of their posal for an interua&ioaalp~~hle with loca1to in(CrDatiooaldevelop- developmentjournal that will ~ projects. ~t, euvir!:!"-.!Dea1a!,and ed\K:atioaal 10 aa important need that is hoDored publications, orglDizatioas, aDd All reports will be foUowed by more in words than in deeds: associations. Colleg~ and univer- invite(! commentari~ by peers IUd empoweriDg the community side of sities with development and planning experts wilh experlellce in the topic development partnerships. If you programs will also be targeted. All area plus m author's ~ AD agree, please write ~ . brief letter. subscribers who CID afford to, will appendix tD each ~ study will pr0- D~be, from your experieoce, why be encouragedto make ~~~ in vide information on how readerscan this journal would make a ditfeteDce. addition to their subscripti~ and to cootribUle tD the proj~ in fiDIDcia1 Foundations. !be SOIUceof surt-up sponsor subscriptions for frieads, and IUd oon-flDmCiai ways. Boob. fllDding, want to ~ letters of sup- OrJIDizatiOBSwho cannot afford port from people arouud the world. periodicals, videos, aleDCies,fOUDda- ~pti~. tiODSaDd other or i~ticm. relcvaut If you are in C(MJJ8Ctwith frimda and tD each issue's Ibeme will be Iisaed co-workers from your Pace Corps Throughout the world there &Ie aDd briefly reviewed. Each issue bOStcountry could you sbazethis h~ of thOUSIDdsof develop. win also have a section for brief article, or . trw--!1E!at.-~ of it, with IDeDtDOO-goverDD-.ta1orpaiDCions reporu aDd leuen tD the editDr ~ them? Their leuers would be (NGOs). Regular aDd SPQu.JIecI casestudi~ in previousiSSIIea. especially important to foUDdatiODS. subscriptioas will be sought from IDI1 for as u.u y 0 f these groups 81 CoaimUDityladers IUd edUCIton818 The S'.L~le developIJXIIt possible. B\L~iDeSsesaDd DOD-profit the JoJlmDl's primary audialce IUd approach lCkDowiedgestb8t the pr0s- subscribers, u.uy of them with authors, but the articles will be writ- perity of my ODeof us is linked to. activities iDvolviD, iDteIU8tioaal ten aDd edited so as to also appeal to DOtat the expeaseof. the prosperity developmellt aDd educatiOl1,win be of all of us aDd our mvitODmellt. devejoplllalt aM educatioa expczts. aICOUIagedtobecomeJoIImGl Most develop~t aDd ~-~Q!!. lit- We need to plm and impl~ underwriters aDd to spoDIOrsubEripo erature is written by IUd for experts development so that change is DOt boas for individuals aDCiorpDiD- se1f~ve, Even if that using co~lex, lechnicallanguage bODSthey work with. that is very confusing to DM)st destnlCtion is hidden from view. shifted to others. the eaviroDJDeDt.or people. The case studies will need Foundations in intematioaal, to be good stories as well as the next generation, sustainable, aDd community develop- instr.JCtivereports. ment, enviroameotal, aIMiedsabODal The Jounlal of SlISlainabk DeYelop.. sectors will be primary ~ of The ideology of developmeauempha- me1Iland Education will be a world start-up fuDding. Within five years wide forum where community leId- sizes paltDerships betWeeI1 COIDDIUD- all funding will co~ from sub- iti~ lad those who seek to acve en and educators. whose iDfonued scriptions, individual ad corporale them. Too lOOi lad too ofteD!he participation is crucial to iu-hle donations, aDd the~ specific grants. ~ of developmect poI~. caD develop~t partnership has beeI1 UDequal,in part becauseusuallyoaly share their experiences with each A twelve page draft ~ is avail- the expert side of the partDershiphas ocher. Their expertise will help able on reqUestwith expaoded ~- had easy ~ to the tools of infor- bODS011 proj~t aud justification, inform aDd Iuide their peers aDdthe mation aDd communication. political leaders Iud experts who implementation. funding, aI]d an work with them. Equal accessto appeDdix with a sample table of con- The Journal will start as a 96 page iDformatioo IJMi communication re- tents, case sbldy outline. budget. in- sources is essentiaJto partDa'ships in English lan!U88e bi-annuaJpublica- come table, b~ line, bibliogtapby. tiODwith a &011of becoming a multi- wbich both paI1nerl are empowered. and Board of Advisors. lingual quarterly. If possible, it will Empowerment of the recipients of be distributed free to the 6,000 plus development proj~ts is au indis- Micbael Arnott, 61 Slade Street. current U.S. Peace Corps Yoluoteets peDSable.but ofteD missing. element BelllM)Dt. MA 02178. Pbooe: 617/ and by SUbscriptiODto all others. of development initiatives. 484-5068. (Philippines 1979-81) The over 130,000 Returned PCYs will also be potential subscribers, Each Journal issue will use case studies to examine a different topic. ~ ""U -81\ "Li~ \ '..." Frlend- ~~ ~~r~cc~ 34 Winter 95/96

"Bearing poignant witness to centuries of Jewish life, the historic syna- gogues of Morocco offer preservationists a special challenge..."

Peter Slatin writes in the Morocco are elderly or poor. and bombing of Ubya. Since Tunisia March/April 1995, issue of His- seem resigned to the eventual and Algeria were less tolerant toric Preservation M8:fJ~' an end of Jewish life in Morocco, a with Americans, he stayed in Mo- article called Sacred Still, that dis- life that began even before the rocco. cusses the remaining syna- expulsion of Jews from Spain in gogues in Morocco, and an 1492, sent them across the Straits With financing from the World attempt by the World Monuments of Gibralterto Tangier. Monuments Fund, he and photog- Fund to preserve that portion of rapher Isaiah Wyner developed the country's man-made history. Of the hundreds of synagogues archives and documentation bet- that Moroccan Jews built through- ter than that taken to Israel from Thoughdistant from Israel,H. M. out the country, only 250 have Morocco as the Jews left. The Hassan II has made clear been identified. Conditions range WMF released a summary of the throughouthis forty-year reign his from total abandonment and de- research in 1992, in a book called positive feelings toward the Mo- terioratio~mplete transfor- The Synagogues of Morocco: An roccanJew- Architectural ish and Preserva- community. tionSurvey. His father, Mohammed Working with V, refused local residents, to sign or- Zack, and the ders to de- WIF, the Jewish port Heritage Coun- Morocco's cil has decided Jews during to concentrate mation into homes for Moslem the Vichy governmenfsrule dur- on sixteen synagogues that were families, speaking even more ing WorldWar II. deemed particularly in need of eloquently of the interdependent preservation because of their lo- lives led by Jews and Moslems in HO'Never, of the 300,000 Jews cation, style, or deteriorating con- Morocco. A few are still in use. who resided in Morocco at the dition. Even their most ardent time of independence in 1956, admirers, however, admit that the In 1986. Joel lack, then an archi- only 6,000 remain, in a population artifacts are modest, and ".. .not of tecture student at Columbia Uni- of nearly 30,000,000. The others enormous artistic value..." versity, received a Kinne either left during difficult times, or Fellowship to research Jewish emigrated to Israel, France, Why preserve the synagogues? culture in North Africa. His inten- Canada, and the U.S. (The WMF Chairman Marilyn Perry tions were to study the Jewish largest Moroccan Jewish commu- says, "First this is a heritage from communities in Algeria. Morocco. .-- nity outside of Morocco is found in a declining, if not slowly expiring - and Tunisia-but just after arrival. ~ Many who remain in tradition that has lasted two thou- President Reagan ordered the Winter 95/96 35 Sacred Still... University of New York at Bing- erty is not easy to reach. hamton notes that most of the sand years." Thus the syna- problemsthe Jews encountered That is "good and bad," says Sam gogues hold enormous signifi- came from lower-level bureau- Gruber of the Jewish Heritage cance within their communities in cratsrather than the upperstratas Council, "It means that the build- which they were built. of society. He says, "There is a ing is being protected. but not recognitionamong the Moroccan Aecessarily maintained-but it is Jews lived in a designated qua~e~. elite that the Jewsformed part of not being demolished either." in Morocco, the mellah, on land their own national heritage. The synagogue at EI Fessaine is that was often provided by the There is even regret that they somewhat different. It has been king, near the imperial palace, in have lost a talented part of their adopted to another use, a boxing a gesture both protective and em- population." hall, and is unlikely to be returned bracing. Sometimes, of course, to the Jewish community. But, the mellahwas located in an area Stillman went on to say that offi- the owners have not destroyed confined under more cials of the Jewish Heritage Coun- the character of the room, and are oppressive condi- willing to offer visi- tions. "...to bui\d a c.onspiGuousboose. of WOfi)hip tors access when was to invite. troub\e H asked. Most mellahsare in- habited by non-Jew- The 5agga syna- ish Moroccans today (Tangier cil, say that reversing the goguein Fez, however,is now a never had a mellah), and the syn- emigration trend is highly un- residence,and the family refuses agogues have been converted likely. But the Moroccan govern- accessto visitors. into houses. Transformation from ment is clearly anxious not only to temple to residence is a fairly sim- tap into the wealth of sentiment Growing interest in the syna- ple and natural process: Most of among its Jewish emigres, but gogues, both from newcomers the synagogues were constructed throughout the world. The syna- and expatriates, have stirred dor- as a floor or room in a family gogues are a key to that effort, mant passions in the homeland. home, usually the home of a rabbi and restoring, preserving, and "Five years ago no one professed or beloved scholar. The tradition fostering an awareness of the re- interest in these structures," says was -not the product of a false source is essential. Gruber. "Now in Morocco, what modesty. To build a conspcuous we are finding is that local groups house of worship was to invite The synagogues range from very have formed-particularly in Fez trouble, even in tolerant Morocco. elaborately decorated structures and Casablanca-and in Tangier Thus, notes Zack. the exteriors of as found in Tangier and Tetouan, individuals are taking some initia- many synagogues bear no reli- to mud rooms found in the south. tive...People are trying to estab- gious markings. The survey lish museums and collect found that "most Moslems who An example of the difficulties artifacts." Overall, there is a new own and use the former syna- being encountered in the preser- recognition that these are historic gogues as houses are a little vation program, is the Ibn Danan monuments, and people are be- proud" of their provenance. Synagogue in Fez. The syna- ginning to contemplate saving gogue was inherited by members them. Norman Stillman, who teaches of a family, now dispersed, and as Sephardic studies at the State with any estate anywhere, agree- ment on what to do with the prop- . ~ -' -81\ ",ti~\ """ Frl_nd- <>~ ~<>r<>cc<> 36 Winter 95/96

Rural Water PCV Randy Hammond Develops Chlorination Graph for Well Disinfection

Excerptedfrom the Peace Corps The well is then treated every fif- Times, the PCT editor notes that teen days with a lower level of PCVRandyHammonddeVelo~ bleach. 8 chlorination graph as the result of his work in Morocco. With con- The graph shows the proportions taminated water a problem in so that are required for decontami- many countries, the PCT wanted nation. it to be available to all volunteers, everywhere. Congratulations Randy.

Traditionally, Moroccans have been disinfecting the water in ~ _8.7 -&-1 _U -&-1.1 --2 their wells by using liquid bleach, 1\ ---u -S ~ which is sold commercially under ... the namejave/and contains 12% chlorine.

In order to disinfect water prop- A World Bank erly, under certain conditions a chart showing the high dosage of the bleach is nec- scaracity of water essary. This "shock treatment" is Growing water scarcity in North Africa. AIVIUaI renewable recommended for (1) a well that freit! water per person, has just been worked on for clean- cubicmete,. ing, deepening, or pump removal and replacement, or (2) a well that 5.000 is being chlorinated for the first II time. 4.000

3.000 Following shock treatment, water should not be removed from the 2.CX» I well for 24 hours. After 24 hours, 1.0001 water should be drawn to test Chtonic wale, whether the smell of chlorine is stress' 1960 1990 2025 still present before it can be used IJ Europe E Middle Easl 0 MOfocco Algeria DTwUia for drinking. . andNonhAlrica I s.. C11a112('How $CalC. 1$wa...r) ~ ~ 2S .. ... 81*=18~ w- .. . ~ Maooer" -~ s-ce: WOf1dR..OUIces Ins_. JPL&\'\- Winter 95/96 37

Following is a compilatiofJ of news He concludes that democracy and umn by Jack Anderson in December reports ~bout the Maghreb and the economic justice can only be had 1995. that the greatest threat to Arab world giving an update on when the youth reject all old American security in 1996 may not events on the periphery of Morocco. "recipes" for stability and take a new come from Iran, Iraq, or North look at power and responsibility for Korea. Many U.S. policy makers are Algeria the country. The review is by concerned that Algeria is a potential Georges Corm. powder keg. It is reported that it is - The Associated Press reports just a matter of time before the The Associated Press reported from Paris that graffiti threatening - threats now seen in France spread to the "next (terrorist) attack" caused from Paris that France is falling vic- America. He says that President the closing of three schools in the tim to a new wave of terrorism and Clinton's advisors also fear that Al- French Alps in October. France re- fears that the Algerian Civil War. gerian fighting could s~1I over into buffed Islamic extremists' pressure could spill over into France. Thefear neighboring Tunisia and Morocco, to break ties with Algeria, however. was echoed by the rector of the Paris two of America's strongest allies in The Armed Islamic Group has been Mosque after Islamic leader Abdel- North Africa. Such a problem would implicated in a series of bombings in baki Sahraoui was killed while pray- destabilize NATO's southern flank France that has killed seven and in- ing in the Mosque. France later and damage U.S. military operations jured over 130 since July 1995. The arrested more than 60 North in the region. group said that it is punishing France Africans, many of them Algerians for interfering in the domestic affairs suspected of weapons trafficking for -Amnesty Action strongly con- of its former colony, and short-lived the Armed Islamic Group. demned a bombing in central Algiers department, and because President in late January 1995, which killed 38 The Associated Press reported Jacque Chirac had ignored its call to .. people and injured over 250 others. convert tQlslam. that a bombwas found on a rail line Amnesty International is asking that betweenParis and Lyon, but that it all armed political opposition groups -La Monde Diplomatique in its had not explodeddue to a malfunc- in Algeria immediately cease their July 1995 issue, reviews a new book tioning triggering device. Fifteen attacks on civilians. It also asked by Ghazi Hidouci, called La Revolu- trains had passedover the bomb,on that the Algerian government re- tion inachevee. It researches what France'smost travelled rail line for spect human rights and to bring an the author believes to be the vacationers.The state of Frenchse- end to torture and extrajudicial exe- essence of Algerian political prob- curity enhancementsdue to the cutions. Amnesty Action also re- lems, to be found in society since the many bombingsin the country,was ports that Algerian families are still beginning of independence. A good emphasized on Paris Metro cars, waiting for a list of the dead to be bit of the problem can be seen in the where each car was assignedfour made public months after at least 96 attempts at a socialist economic de- gendarmes. detainees were killed at the Serkadji velopment that was trying to exist Prison in February 1995. Many of along side a dream of democracy. --United Features reports in a col- the families were given notice of the

,.

- ~ I "li .J...t# I """ Fr'-~cI- ~f' ~~rocc~ 38 Winter 95/96

deaths only after the bodies were have adequatepapers to enter an- --Wire Reports from Tripoli say buried. The relatives were then other country. that Libya flew a plane load of pil- given burial permits with "X Alge- grims from Tripoli to Saudi Arabia in rian" printed in place of a name. The Associated Press reported violation of U.N. sanctionsagainst from Cairo that the Ubyan govern- international air travel, in March -News Releases from Algiers re- ment has arrestedhundreds of op- 1995. Egypt had askedthat a spe- port that bombings continue killing ponents after clashes that left at cial waiver for the pilgrimageflights civilians and that political assassina- least 30 people dead in Ubya's be established,as long as Egyptian tions are becoming almost everyday largest cities. 3,500 suspectedIs- airplaneswere used for the Ubyan happenings. Over 30,000 people lamic activists were reported as transport. Instead, a Lit1)ian727 have died in the Algerian " made the flight, landing civil war, including ter- ... relatives were given burial pemits in Jiddah, rather than rorists, government offi- with "X Algerian" printed makinga stopin Egypt. cials, and civilians. Five in place of a name." militants were killed by --Wire Reports from their own bomb when it exploded being detained in Benghazi. Libya Cartagena, Columbia report that prematurely in an Algiers suburb. has never acknowledged opposition the October 1995 Non-Aligned Fighting also continues in the moun- to the government. Theseculargov- Movement created a "fuming Ubyan tains west of Algiers.-France has re- erJ:}ment has repeatedly criticized delegate," because the delegate newed appeals to its citizens living in the Islamic groups fighting in neigh- from Burundi "butted in front of him Algeria to leave after a French cou- boring Algeria and Egypt. The BBC when it was (his) turn to speak." ple were killed by suspected Islamic monitored a speech by Gadhafi After each of the ministers and extremists. They were killed as they when he said that "Beginning today, heads of state of the 113 developing were entering their import/export no traitor, no spy, no agent, no cow- nations had a chance to speak, the shop in Algiers' EI Biar neighbor- ard, no weakling, and no despicable delegates haggled over a final sum- hood. person can hope to live among us mit document urging disarmament, any more." About 200 women wear- economic cooperation, and respect Libya ing traditional Islamic dress or re- for human rights. lated to the accused were also -Wire Reports from Cairo state detained, according to the report. --Wire Reports from Tripoli re- that Libyan leader Moammar Gad- ported in Decemberthat Moammar - The Associated Press reports hafj is "spoiling" the Israeli/Pales- Gadhafi has threatened to attack tinian peace efforts by threatening to that Moammar Gadhafi called Louis Naples, and sink the United States expel 25,000 Palestinians working in Farrakhan to congratulate him on Sixth Fleet. Libya. At least 10,000 have been re- the "spectacular success" of the Mil- ported to be expelled to isolated lion Man March on Washington in Tunisia desert camps. In October, 480 October. He told Farrakhan that the Palestinians were stranded in a no- march "toward the American capi- -Wire Repolts from Tunis say man's land near the Mediterranean tal...shook it violently in a peaceful that Arab nations agreed on an an- ~~ost of the deportees do not and civil way." Farrakhan described titerrorist code of conductbut re- Gadhafi as his "beloved brother." mained divided over the definition of ~~ Winter 95/96 39

tefforismand just what measures to beneath the surface,the reportsays. from Tifarity, Western Sahara that take. "The Arabic countries commit Ali Chebbi, the religious affairs min- the United States has been showing themselves to avoid being the origin, ister, says that "fundamentalist are renewed interest in the Sahara, be- or that their territory serve as a stag- terrorists, and we have crushed cause Congress is demanding that

ing point for terrorist acts:' said , a. them to make way for a healthy, tol- U.S. participation in U.N. peace- statement from the ministers of 22 erant Islam." He says that neighbor- keeping activities how progress. countries, after two days. Some ing Algeria's turmoil has little impact Over 70 countries, including a ma- countries expressed reservation as because Tunisians live well and hold jority from Africa, have recognized to whether Muslim militants should tightly to their open-minded way of the Saharan Arab Democratic Re- be classed as terrorists. life. Extremist and Islamist opposi- pubfic, a state without territory. AU. tion is outlawed in Tunisia, a country N. sponsored election will determine -Amnesty Action reports that where state television relays French whether Western Sahara becomes Tourkia Hamadi, a 29-year-old programs, bare breasts and all; Africa's 52nd independent state, or if mother of two was arrested and where fashionably dressed women it will become Morocco's southern- jailed in July after her six-month hold crucial jobs; where women's most province. The difficulty is get- prison sentence was confirmed by rights are protected; where health ting all sides to agree on a list of the courts in Gabes, Tunisia. She care is good; where Friday is a work names of legitimate voters. was charged with belonging to the il- day; and where liquor is easy to find. legal Islamic party al-Nahda, and of Human rights activist Marzouki says -Travel & Leisure, in its February helping her husband flee the country that "the irony in Tunisia is that we 1995 issue, features Timbuktu in an in 1991. Hamadi is one of scores of are protecting democracy by crush- article titled TheLong, Long Road to women who have been arrested in ingit." Timbuktu, an Unforgettable Journey Tunisia for aiding relatives who are Across the Sands of Mali, to a Place members of al-Nahda, or who have & Elsewhere that Looks Uke Nowhere Else on received aid from friends and family Earlh, by Ted Conover. It describes while their husbands are in exile. -Wire Reports from Spain report Mali as "several countries rolled into that the summer saw demonstra- one...(with much being) a cross be- The Associated Press reported in - tions by Spanish fisherman, protest- tween Mesa Verde and the Land of the summer from Tunis, that Tunisia ing the failure by Spain and Morocco the Hobbits." Timbuktu declined, insists that a big carrot and a bigger to reach an agreement on a fishing and finally fell, in the 16th Century, stick can stop extreme movements treaty. Spanish fishermen have when the Berber armies from Mo- seeking to impose strict Islamic law. been bannedfrom fishing in Moroc- rocco invaded, and the circumven- Tourists spend over one billion dol- can waters. tion of the Saharan trade routes by lars annually in this "well-fed, stable the European maritime nations. society ,nthough there is tension just - The Associated Press reports 40 Winter 95/96

Clear your calendar from 29 Febru- ary to 3 March 1996, for a weekend of special events and programs in Washington DC, as Peace Corps celebrates its anniversary: thirty- five years of waging peace.

A special dinner on Friday, 1 March, at the Mayflower Hotel, will honor Sargent Shriver, Loret Miller Ruppe, and all other past Peace Corps Di- rectors.

Friends of Morocco will be there, so come join in the celebration.

More information is elsewhere in the newsletter. or you can call Kirsten Peterson at Peace Corps Washing- ton, 202.342.6081.

FRIENDS OF MOROCCO P. O. Box 2579 Washington DC 20013-2579 (Address Co"ection Requested)